Chapter X: Part 10

In the row on the opposite side of the tatting, take out the crochet needle at the 3rd chain stitch and put it in from beneath into the corresponding stitch of the opposite row; in this manner join the two insertions together so as to complete the pattern.

For the crochet: The same materials, but two numbers finer.]

INSERTION OF TATTING AND CROCHET (figs. 507 and 508).—Worked with one shuttle. The tatting thread should be two numbers coarser than the crochet thread. Begin with 2 strings of half rings consisting of: 4 short picots and 3 long. Leave a length of thread between, equal to the diameter of the ring.

When the two strings of half rings are finished, crochet with the fine thread: 6 plain over each length of thread between, and at the base of the scallops.

2nd row—5 chain, 1 plain in the 4th plain of the 1st row.

In the row that connects the two rows of tatting, put the 3rd chain stitch into the corresponding stitch of the opposite row.

For the outside edge make: 1 plain in the 1st short picot, 8 chain *, 1 treble in the 2nd short picot, 7 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd short picot, 8 chain, 1 plain in the 4th short picot, 1 plain in the short picot opposite, 3 chain, pass the thread through the 4th of the 8 chain stitches, 4 chain and repeat from *.

For the last row make: 3 plain in each of the 3 last of 8 chain, * 1 picot of 5 chain above the treble, 4 plain in the 4 next chain, 1 picot, 1 single in the same stitch as the plain before the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, miss the 1st and the last stitch, then make 3 plain on the next scallop and repeat from *.

EDGING OF TATTING AND CROCHET (fig. 509).—Worked with two shuttles and in two shades. With the light shade: 2 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, * 2 double, 1 picot of the ordinary size, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, close the ring = with 2 shuttles: 3 double, pass the thread through the 1st picot, make 3 double, 1 long picot, 2 double = with the light shade: 4 double, pass the thread through the 9th picot of the 1st ring, make 3 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring = with 2 shuttles: 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, 1 short picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 2 double, pass the thread through the empty picot of the small ring, make 2 double, pass the thread through the long picot of the big ring, then repeat from *.

To complete the edge, crochet first one row, consisting of: * 1 plain in the 1st of the 5 picots of the big ring, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 2nd picot, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 3rd picot, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 4th picot, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 5th picot and repeat from *.

2nd row—2 plain on the 3rd and 4th of the first chain stitches = over the 2nd and 3rd chain: 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain; on the 4 last chain: 2 plain.

For the footing make: 1 plain in the long picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the next picot, 5 chain, 1 double treble in the short picot, leave the 2 last loops of the treble on the needle = 3 trebles in the first lower loop of the double treble, keep the last loops of these 3 trebles on the needle, after the 4th treble, draw the needle through the 4 trebles. The last row consists of: 3 chain, 1 treble over 5 chain.

TATTED MEDALLION (fig. 510).—Worked with two shuttles and two colours.

1st row—with one shuttle: 12 double and 6 picots, close the ring.

2nd row—with two shuttles and the dark coloured thread laid across the left hand = knot the threads into one of the picots of the 1st ring: 1 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, pass the right hand thread through one of the picots of the ring, 1 picot, 2 double and so on. After the 12th picot fasten off the threads on the wrong side by two or three stitches.

COLOURS: Gris-Tilleul 330 and Rouge-Cardinal 304.[A]]

3rd row—with one shuttle: * 3 double, pass the thread through one of the picots of the 2nd row, make 3 double, close the ring = leave 5 m/m. of thread = turn the work = 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring = leave 5 m/m. of thread again and repeat 11 times from *.

4th row—with two shuttles; fasten the ends to one of the picots of one of the 12 rings of the 3rd row: * 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 3 double, pass the thread through the picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = close to this: 3 double, pass the thread through the 2nd picot of the 1st ring, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = again, close to the last ring: 3 double, pass the thread through the picot of the 2nd ring, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = with 2 shuttles: 3 double, pass the thread through the 2nd picot of the 3rd ring, 3 double, fasten the thread to the picot of the ring of the 3rd row and repeat 11 times from *.

5th row—with two shuttles and the dark colour across the left hand: 6 double and 2 picots over the lower rings and 10 double and 4 picots over the upper rings.

TATTED EDGING (fig. 511).—With two shuttles and with the two colours indicated, or in any other combination of colours.

Begin with two shuttles, the red thread across the left hand = 10 double, 1 picot, 6 double = with one shuttle: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work = make a second ring like the first and close to it = turn the work = with two shuttles: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double = with one shuttle: 6 double, pass the thread through the picot of the ring opposite, 6 double, close the ring = 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work to make the next half ring.

Make 3 rows of half rings connected by rings. In the 2nd row, you pass the thread from the ring through the picot to which the 2nd ring was fastened in the 1st row.

For the outside scallops, make with one shuttle: * 5 double, pass the thread through the picot that connects 2 rings, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 4 double = with one shuttle: 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pass the thread through the picot of the half ring of the 3rd row, 2 double; then 8 picots more with 2 double between each, close the ring = with two shuttles: 4 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 5 double, pass the thread through the 3rd picot of the big ring, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 2 double, 6 picots with 2 double after each picot = with one shuttle: 5 double, pass the thread through the 3rd picot of the big ring, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, pass the right hand thread through the 6th picot of the big ring = with two shuttles: 4 double, then repeat from *.

The footing is worked in crochet and consists of one row of chain stitches and one of trebles.

SQUARE OF TATTING (fig. 512).—Worked with two shuttles and two colours. With the light colour: 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, close the ring.

1st row—with two shuttles, the dark coloured thread across the left hand = fasten the thread to a picot and make: * 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the ring; 1 picot over the connecting thread, then repeat 3 times from *. The last picot over the picot of the small ring is made at the end.

2nd row—with two shuttles, the light thread over the left hand = fasten the thread to the picot over the light picot: * 2 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the 1st row, 1 long picot over the lower picot, 3 double, pass the thread through the next picot of the 1st row = in the corner, 1 rather longer picot than the one before, 3 double, pass the right hand thread through a picot, 1 long picot, 2 double, pass the thread through a picot; repeat 3 times from *. To form the last picot, fasten off the thread on the wrong side by two or three stitches.

COLOURS: Jaune-Rouille 366 and Brun-Caroubier 359.[A]]

3rd row—with one shuttle and the dark colour: * 4 double, pass the thread through the picot above the picot of the small ring, 4 double, close the ring = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make a second ring like the 1st = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make 6 double, pass the thread through the long picot, 6 double, close the ring = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make another ring of 12 knots, fasten it to the same picot, the preceding knot is fastened to; then make a ring of 8 double knots and repeat 3 times from *.

4th row—with one shuttle and the light colour and worked like the 3rd row, leaving a rather longer length of thread between; then make: 16 instead of 12 double for the corner rings.

5th row—with one shuttle and the light colour = 8 double, fasten the thread to one of the corner loops and between 2 rings of the 4th ring: 8 double, close the ring = turn the work = leave a length of thread, 3 double, 1 picot, then 4 times 2 double knots and 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring. Make the second ring as close as possible to the first, beginning and finishing the second with 5 double knots = make a 3rd ring like the 1st, join it to the 2nd ring by the 4th picot = turn the work = make another ring of 16 knots and join it to the same loop of the 4th row, to which the two other rings are already joined = turn the work = 1 ring above, with 4 picots, like the first one we described, then a ring of 12 double knots below.

At the top, 6 detached half rings, placed between 3 connected rings, which form the corners. The top rings are to be joined after the 3rd double knot, to the 4th picot of the preceding ring.

6th row—with two shuttles and the dark colour only = fasten the threads to a picot that serves as a connecting link, take the dark thread over the left hand and make: 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double = fasten the thread to the connecting picot and carry the half rings all round the square.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

Macramé.

Macramé is an Arabic word, signifying an ornamental fringe or trimming, which has been adopted as the term for a certain kind of hand-work, known also as «knotted fringe» or «Mexican lace» and produced by the knotting, interweaving and tying together of threads.

We have given the preference to the Arabic name because of its less definite meaning, seeing that not only fringe and lace, but trimmings of all kinds, in the shape of bands and stripes and headings, can be worked in macramé.

Until its revival about ten years ago, when it was regarded by many as a new invention, the art of macramé making had for centuries become almost extinct and save here and there in the convents, was quite unknown.

The multitude of uses to which it can be turned as a trimming, the infinite variety it admits of and its great durability and strength, make macramé well worth a study; the difficulties that repel many at first sight are only on the surface and any one who carefully follows the instructions given in the following pages, will soon overcome them and be able without pains to copy the charming designs that accompany them, which remind us of the wooden lattices in the windows of Eastern houses, doubtless familiar to many of our readers, under the name of _moucharabieh_.

MATERIALS.—These may be of almost any kind; silk, gold thread, cord, wool or cotton, can all be employed with good effect. Almost any of the D.M.C cottons can be used for macramé; but the ones especially to be recommended are: Fil à dentelle D.M.C[A], Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A] and Coton à broder D.M.C[A] for the finer kinds of work, and for the coarser, Fil à pointer D.M.C[A], Coton à tricoter D.M.C[A] and Ganse turque D.M.C[A]. The twist in all these is so regular as to admit of a high degree of perfection being attained with them: they are moreover very agreeable to the touch, a great recommendation considering how much they have to be handled by the worker.

MACRAMÉ CUSHION AND OTHER ACCESSORIES (figs. 513 and 514).—The only really important requisite for macramé work is the cushion, which should be well stuffed, and weighted with lead (fig. 513). It is convenient to have it made to screw on to a table like the Swiss tambour frames. There are other kinds of macramé cushions but none, in our opinion, as practical as these because any pattern can be worked upon them and patterns that have a heading or a border of picots can not be worked on any others. The pegs at the ends of the cushion are for fixing and winding the long threads upon, which carry the knots, and which we shall in future call «cords».

For making long lengths of macramé fringe, metal clamps, with round-headed pegs attached to them top and bottom, to fasten the cords to, as represented in fig. 514, will be found far better than a cushion, as any number of threads can be knotted on to them at a time by pushing them more or less closely together on the cord.

Besides the cushion and clamps, you will require, some big glass-headed pins, made expressly for the purpose, a crochet needle for pulling the threads through the stuff when they have to be knotted on to an edge, and a French mètre or yard measure to measure the threads with; to these implements may further be added, scissors and a metal comb and ruler for cutting and straightening the ends of the threads.

The length of the threads must depend on their substance and size; that is to say, that a knot will take up more of a coarse stiff thread than of a fine pliable one, on which account, to avoid the necessity of preliminary trials, the right length of thread, for the quality and size of material, is given with each pattern. If, for any reason, our workers should not follow the directions given, they must bear in mind that the thicker and stiffer the material, the more they will have to allow for the knots and vice versa.

FORMATION OF THE KNOTS.—Beginners must be careful, in macramé as in tatting, not to move or slacken the cord, or horizontal thread that carries the knots. The knots made by the «knotting-thread», as it will be called in future, consist of loops formed over the cord and then tightened. The knotting-thread and the cord are constantly changing places, as you work, loops having to be made now with the one and now with the other.

KNOTTING ON THE THREADS (fig. 515).—Excepting when you work with the threads of a material obtained by unravelling and drawing out the cross threads, you must knot on lengths of thread on to a cord; cut them double the length the fringe is to be and fold them in half, so as to form a loop by means of which you attach them to the cord, in the following manner. Put the loop over the cord from the front and bring it back underneath, put the ends down through the loop, detail _a_, and tighten it, detail _b_, as shown in the engraving.

KNOTTING ON THE THREADS ON TO A STUFF EDGE AND FORMATION OF A FLAT DOUBLE KNOT (fig. 516).—Push your crochet needle through the edge of the stuff from the right to the wrong side and catch hold of the loop, formed by the folding in half of the thread that is to be knotted on; pull it out to the right side, put the ends through, and tighten the loop, detail _a_. Detail _b_ shows two double threads, knotted on near to each other in this way, and the first tying together of the two outer threads for the flat knot which is formed as follows: you take the two outer of the four threads hanging down and cross the right hand one under, and the left hand one over the two centre threads. Whilst doing this, hold the inner ones tightly stretched out on the 3rd and 4th fingers of the left hand, detail _b_. The manner in which the two threads are brought back and tied together again is shown in detail _c_; the drawing up of the threads completes the so-called flat double knot, detail _d_. Detail _e_, of the same figure, shows two flat double knots, side by side, and the first step towards the formation of a third, connecting together the two right threads of the one with the two left threads of the other.

KNOTTING ON THREADS ON TO A KNOTTED HEADING (fig. 517).—Make flat double knots as in fig. 516, detail _d_, on a double cord and then knot on your threads on to the loops of the double knots, putting the loop through from the right side, so that it may lie at the back. Use double threads so that the work beneath the heading may not be too open.

KNOTTING ON THREADS ON TO A PICOT HEADING (fig. 518).—First, crochet a row of chain stitches, then make flat double knots on the chain, far enough apart for the thread between to form picots on the chain, then a second chain of crochet drawn through the picots on one side, on to which tie triple or quadruple lengths of thread, as shown in the engraving.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH ROUND PICOTS (fig. 519).—Fasten the lengths of thread to the cushion with pins, about half a c/m. apart, fix the cord to one of the pegs at the left end of the cushion, hold it tightly extended in a horizontal line with the right hand. With the left hand knot the threads that are pinned down on to the cord, looping each end twice round it, upwards from below and then drawing it through between the two loops or knots thus formed, pulling each knot to the left as you tighten it round the cord. Make the second row of knots in the same way, taking care to lay the second cord as close to the first as possible that the vertical threads may not be visible between. One series of knots forms a bar; there are both horizontal and slanting bars as will be seen later on.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH A FRINGE HEADING (fig. 520).—Knot the threads on with a picot heading, as explained in the preceding figure, then cut the picots through and unravel and comb out the threads.

For this way of knotting on threads, a very strongly twisted material is better than a loose one, as when it is cut and untwisted, it makes a much richer and fuller fringe.

KNOTTING ON WITH PICOTS AND FLAT DOUBLE KNOTS (fig. 521).—Take two threads, pin them on close together, make a flat double knot, fig. 516, tying the outer threads over the inner ones, and loop the ends over a cord to make a horizontal bar of knots.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH PICOTS AND TWO FLAT DOUBLE KNOTS (figs. 522 and 523).—Pin the two threads on as before and make two flat double knots, one below the other; detail _a_ shows the first knot begun, detail _b_ the two knots completed. Fig. 523 shows the picots secured by a horizontal bar of knots beneath them.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH SCALLOPS (fig. 524).—The threads for the scallops must be cut much longer than those that are to be knotted on below them. The button-hole loops must be so made that they turn upwards; and there must be 12 of them, all made with the left hand thread over the right hand thread, detail _a_. Then, knot on two double threads underneath the scallop and besides, make knots with the threads that come from the scallops, detail _b_.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH LOOPS (fig. 525).—Pin on two threads folded in half, a little distance apart, detail _a_, and bind them together with a flat double knot. Pin on more lengths close to them, the inner threads of which are held by a “collecting knot”, as the flat double knot is called when it is made over more than two threads (see also fig. 530). The ends of the threads can then be looped over one or two cords, so as to form a single or double bar of knots, as required.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH TRIPLE SCALLOPS (fig. 526).—Knot on three single threads in succession; first, the middle one, then the second, with the knot right and left and the loop long enough to form the scallop, then the third in the same manner.

KNOTTING ON THREADS FOR RIBBED PICOTS (fig. 527).—Take a double thread and make two slanting bars of knots, see details _a_ and _b_, then secure them, like the preceding scallops by a horizontal bar of knots, see detail _c_.

KNOTTING ON THREADS FOR A GIMP HEADING (fig. 528).—This mode of knotting on forms a broad gimp, consisting of vertical bars of knots, made over a single cord. On the one side, that which is afterwards turned downwards, the cord, the ribs are made on, forms loops, held with pins, into which meshes of threads can be knotted when the gimp is finished, for making either a fringe or a grounding.

Patterns in several colours may likewise be knotted into gimp headings of this kind.

FLAT DOUBLE KNOTS WITH HALF KNOTS (fig. 529).—These are double knots followed by a third knot, or more correctly speaking, a half one of the first flat knots.

COLLECTING KNOTS (fig. 530).—As explained in fig. 525, these are flat double knots, made over more than two threads. The engraving shows, in the first place on the left, a flat double knot made over two threads, completed, and the first crossing of the thread for the collecting knot; secondly, the second crossing of the threads; thirdly how the collecting knot can, if necessary, be continued over 4 threads, and fourthly, how the collecting knot should be made to finish with a flat double knot.

PLAITED AND WAVED KNOTS (fig. 531).—Plaited knots are formed by a continuous repetition of the first crossing of the threads for making a flat knot, detail _a_; waved knots by a slight twist given to the plaited knots from left to right, detail _b_. These plaits of waved knots are secured by joining together the threads of opposite meshes, two and two, by a flat double knot.

SINGLE CROSSED KNOTS AND DOUBLE CROSSED KNOTS (figs. 532 and 533).—Two plain crossings of the threads, detail _a_, to begin with; after which you rapidly reverse the threads, turning the knot to the wrong side, drawing it up tightly at the same time; this forms the first knot, detail _b_. The second knot, fig. 533, is formed by 3 crossings, detail _a_; reverse the threads rapidly, to form the double crossed knot, detail _b_. For the following knots tie the threads together, as for the flat double knot, detail _c_.

LOOPED PICOT AND KNOTTED PICOTS (figs. 534 and 535).—Looped picots are made along a row of knots by setting the knots, far enough apart for the loop between, to form a picot when the knots are drawn up close together. In fig. 534, the detail _a_ represents the picot, in its first open stage, detail _b_ the same picot when it is finished.

Knotted picots, fig. 535, are formed after one or more flat double knots, by a knot made in the outer thread; to get this knot into the right place, make it on a big pin and draw it up close to the flat knot before you take out the pin.

These picots are always made on both sides and can be repeated several times along a row of knots. Detail _a_ shows the crossing of the threads for the picots, detail _b_ the picots completed and followed by a flat knot.

BEAD KNOTS (fig. 536).—A bead knot is made by turning back the threads after a row of flat double knots. Detail _a_ shows three flat double knots finished, detail _b_ the inner threads turned back over the flat double knots, detail _c_ the two knotting threads, brought between the two threads coming from the left to the right, and detail _d_ the bead knot finished and followed by a flat double knot.

BARS OF KNOTS TO THE RIGHT AND LEFT (figs. 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 543, 544).—After knotting on the requisite number of threads on to a double cord, make two button-hole loops with the right thread round the left one, fig. 537, then knot each thread twice over the second cord, fig. 538. These knots must be as close together as possible. This done, begin to make the slanting bars, inclining from left to right, with 4 threads.

The first thread on the left, marked 1 in fig. 540, serves as cord to the threads 2, 3, 4, which are looped in succession over thread 1.

Fig. 541 represents threads 2, 3 and 4, knotted thread 1 and in the second bar, thread 2 becoming in its turn the cord, and having threads 3, 4 and 1 knotted over it, whilst it is being held, tightly stretched in the right hand. The knotting should be done with the left hand.

In fig. 542, which represents a bar inclining from right to left, threads 3, 2 and 1 are knotted over thread 4; and in fig. 543, in the second row, threads 2, 1, 4 over thread 3. Here, it has to be the left hand that holds the thread extended from right to left, whilst the right hand does the knotting.

Fig. 544 explains how the double bars are bound together by an ordinary double knot.

SINGLE CHAIN (fig. 545).—This is made with two single threads, by knotting them alternately over each other, that is, each in turns serving as cord to the other.

DOUBLE CHAIN (fig. 546).—The double chain is made in the same manner as the single, only with a double thread.

Both the double and single chain are generally used in macramé gimps and borders as a means of conducting threads of different colours, from one part of a pattern to another, which could be done in no other way; also, as a continuation to the Chinese knot, fig. 607, as described at the end of this chapter.

RIBBED BORDER (fig. 547).—Here, the same cord runs to and fro; the 4 threads that hang down, form little ribbed bars running right and left. To distinguish from the knotting threads, the thread that runs to and fro it, is represented in a darker colour.

MACRAMÉ FRINGE (figs. 548, 549, 550).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Coton à tricoter D.M.C: 80 c/m.

1st row—knot on the threads, as in fig. 515, and in the following order: 1 double white thread, 2 double red, 1 double blue and so on.

2nd row—make a horizontal bar of knots, see figs. 519, 520 and 521, over a second cord.

3rd row—3 button-hole knots, fig. 524, each with 2 threads.

4th row—like the 2nd.

5th row—make slanting bars of double knots right and left, counting 6 threads for each bar, consequently 12 for 2. The 1st and 12th thread serving as the cords for the knots. In the 2nd series of knots which forms the double slanting bar, make another double knot over the cord with the thread that served as cord in the preceding row.

When the slanting bars are finished, bring them as close together as possible, tighten the last thread on the right and make another double knot with the left thread; the position of all the threads is clearly described in fig. 549. Then continue the bars in the opposite direction, so that the 2nd thread on the left is stretched over the right hand group of threads, and the 11th thread on the right over the left hand group.

Make 3 rows of double bars and then take always 3 threads of a left hand group and 3 of a right hand one, tie them loosely together in a plain knot, put in, above the knot, a bunch of 8 threads, 15 c/m. long, fig. 550 detail _a_, draw up the knot close to the bars and wind thread of a different colour several times round it, detail _b_, to form the tassel.

The other bunches of threads which are hung on between two bars of knots must be tied on the same level with the first, but do not, nevertheless, come into close contact with the bars.

INSERTION OR FRINGE (figs. 551 and 552).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Coton à tricoter D.M.C: 50 c/m., including the fringe.

1st row—knot on the threads as in fig. 515.

2nd row—1 double horizontal bar of knots, as in figs. 519 or 520, over double cords.

3rd row—Take 8 threads for a group of bars; 2 light and 2 dark ones on each side; the two sets of threads are numbered in fig. 552, a working detail of fig. 551, from 1 to 4.

Begin by making all the knots over threads 1 and 2 of the left set, so that threads 3 and 4 on the left will be outside and threads 1 and 2 inside the group. Make the same knots over the 3rd and 4th thread on the right, then repeat the left group again and so on.

Repeat from the beginning, and make 2 double knots over thread 3 on the right, fig. 552, with threads 1 and 2 on the left, then again 2 knots over thread 4 on the right. When this series of knots is finished, make: 3 double knots over thread 1 (dark-coloured in the engraving) with the left thread 2 and the right threads 1 and 2; make on the left: 3 knots over thread 4 with the right thread 3 and the left threads 2 and 1, and so on.

When this pattern is worked for a gimp and not a fringe, the threads are made to end in knots, as explained in fig. 558.

GIMP MADE WITH MACRAMÉ SHUTTLES (figs. 553, 554, 555).—Cut 8 double threads of the length the gimp is to be.

In order not to have to add on threads in the middle of the work, or have long ends hanging down, which are very much in the way, we recommend the employment of a new macramé shuttle, a kind of spool, such as are used in the making of pillow lace. These shuttles simplify the work enormously and are made hollow so that they can be mounted and filled on the spindle of any sewing machine.

Knot on the threads, as in fig. 515, and make a single bar of knots. Then leaving 2 threads on the right and 2 on the left disengaged, make 3 flat double knots with every set of 4 threads between. Make a slanting bar of double knots over the 16th right thread, with the 15th, 14th, 13th, 12th, 11th, 10th and 9th thread; then make knots with the same threads and with the 16th over the 15th thread. Make a similar bar on the left, over the 1st thread, with the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th thread.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 1 to 10, Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.[A]

COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo 311 and Brun-Marron 406.[A]]

On both sides, and with the 4 outer threads: 4 flat double knots, fig. 516, detail _d_; 2 more bars on the right and left, but in the opposite direction, and knotting all the threads even to the last one, fig. 555. Take the 4 middle threads and make 6 flat double knots and then turn the bars of knots inwards; the return of the cord is indicated as before in fig. 555.

MACRAMÉ BORDERS (figs. 556, 557, 558, 559).—Length of the single threads for No. 6 of Coton à tricoter D.M.C: 50 c/m.

Knot the threads on for both these borders in the ordinary way, followed by a single horizontal bar of knots. For fig. 556, make a triple slanting bar of knots, with 4 threads, slanting one from right to left and one from left to right; then make a single horizontal bar and add another series of triple bars slanting the opposite way; complete the pattern by a vertical bar, lay another cord and make a horizontal bar upon it on the wrong side of the work and finish by tying the threads together, two and two, as shown in fig. 558, detail _a_, cut them, detail _b_, and push the knot upwards, detail _c_.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10, Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.[A]

COLOURS—For fig. 556: Bleu-Lapis 342 or Bleu-Gentiane 480—For fig. 557: Rouge-Turc 321 or Rouge-Cerise 3318.[A]]

For fig. 557 take 8 threads for a group of knots. Make all the bars slanting from right to left first, fig. 559, then take the 5th thread, counting from left to right, for the cord, fig. 559 again, and begin the second series of bars of knots, slanting from left to right. Fasten off the threads as already explained in fig. 558.

The same pattern can also be used as an insertion: bags for instance, look very well made of alternate stripes of this insertion and stripes made of flat knots. The openwork stripes must be wider than the close ones.

MACRAMÉ FRINGE (figs. 560 and 561).—Entire length of the threads, including the fringe, for No. 5 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 120 c/m.

1st row—knot on the threads, as in fig. 520, in the following order: 4 double blue threads, 3 single dark brown, 1 double light brown, 3 single dark brown; then again 4 double blue, and so on.

2nd row—divide the threads into groups, so that the brown threads come in the middle with 4 blue ones on either side. Begin on the left = cover the 4th blue thread, which comes nearest to the first brown one, with flat double knots, made over the 1st, 2nd and 3rd brown thread and the light brown one = cover the 3rd blue thread with the 4 brown threads and the 4th blue, which served as the cord in the 1st row of knots = cover the 2nd blue thread with the 4 brown and the 4th and 3rd blue = cover the 1st blue with the 4 brown and the 4th, 3rd and 2nd blue.

In the working detail, fig. 561, the dark lines represent the blue threads, the light ones, the brown.

When the quadruple bar, slanting from left to right, is finished, make a similar one, from right to left, then connect the 1st and 16th thread by a double knot and pass the first blue thread on the left over to the right group.

2nd row—make similar groups, reversed, so that the brown knots come next to the last blue ones and the blue knots again terminate the groups of bars; the brown threads will be stretched flat between the preceding group and the next.

3rd and 5th row—like the first.

4th row—like the 2nd.

COLOURS: Écru, or any light shade mentioned in the D.M.C colour card.[A]]

After the 5th row of groups, take 4 brown threads on either side of the blue knots, and make them into a double chain, fig. 546, consisting of 12 knots, and make 6 flat double knots with the last threads.

Lastly, unite all the threads of one group of bars, and make them into a handsome tassel by the addition of other threads.

MACRAMÉ FRINGE (fig. 562).—Entire length of the threads for No. 3 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 75 c/m.

1st row—Knot on the threads as in fig. 527, succeeded by a double horizontal bar of knots.

2nd row—twisted or waved knots with 4 knots, fig. 531.

3rd row—double horizontal bar of knots.

4th row—with 6 threads: 1 double bar, slanting from left to right, and 1 bar, from right to left, joined together by the last threads.

5th row—with the 4 threads coming from the groups of bars: 1 single chain, fig. 545, with 4 crossings of the threads, quite close to the point where the groups meet, and 1 single chain with 7 crossings, made with the outside threads.

6th row—similar groups of bars to those of the 4th row, but set the reverse way and terminating in a horizontal bar. For the tassels, add a thick bunch of threads to each group of 6 threads that issues from the work.

MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 8 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.

COLOURS: Écru, Brun-Acajou 401 and Rouge-Cardinal 347.]

WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 563.]

WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 563.]

FRINGE WITH MOSAIC BORDER (figs. 563, 564, 565).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 75 c/m.

1st row—knot the threads on, as in fig. 515, one écru and one brown alternately, succeeded by a single horizontal bar of double knots.

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th row—4 rows of knots, such as are seen in fig. 564, in process of being made, and in fig. 565, finished, and succeeded by a flat knot. The colours alternate in the knots; in the 2nd and 4th row the knot is set in the light colour, in the 3rd and 5th, in the dark.

6th row—1 horizontal bar of double knots over a fresh cord.

7th row—lay down another cord, make another horizontal bar of knots and between every second of the light double knots, loop on 1 red thread; the loop, that fastens it to the cord, taking the place of the knot.

8th row—lay down a third cord, and make 2 double knots with the red threads between the knots of écru thread.

9th row—lay down a fourth cord, make a half knot with every red thread.

10th row—lay down a fifth cord, then make a horizontal bar of double knots, as in the 6th row; the red threads are taken to the wrong side and passed over. Knot the ends of the threads together in clusters of 6, about 15 m/m. below the last cord of knots.

COLOURS: Écru and Bleu-Indigo 322, or Vert-Perroquet 697 and Rouge-Écarlate 498.[A]]

MACRAMÉ GROUND (figs. 566, 567, 568).—Fill the shuttles with the length of thread that you think will be required for the work.

1st row—knot the threads on, as in fig. 515, 4 blue and 4 écru alternately, and make a double horizontal bar.

2nd row—beginning in the middle, make 2 flat double knots with 8 blue threads; with the 4 blue threads on the left, make a quadruple group of bars over the 4 blue threads on the right. These quadruple groups of bars, called «shell bars» are illustrated in detail in fig. 567. Unite the blue threads at the sides by flat double knots.

The beginning and continuation of the openwork parts of the pattern are explained in fig. 568.

The threads that issue from the last group of knots are used for making the second shell bar, the two inner bars of which are made in écru cotton, and the two outer in blue. When this striped shell bar is finished, the blue threads are again united for the openwork figure.

FRINGE WITH FOUNDATION WORKED ON THE WRONG SIDE.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 16, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 5 to 25, Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.[A]

COLOURS: White, Bleu-Indigo 311 and 312 or Gris-Amadou 385, Brun-Caroubier 356, 357.[A]]

FRINGE WITH FOUNDATION WORKED ON THE WRONG SIDE (figs. 569, 570, 571, 572).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Coton à tricoter D.M.C: 80 c/m.

Knot the threads on, as in fig. 515 and after finishing the horizontal bar, make from left to right, over the 1st thread, 1 double knot made with the 2nd and with the 3rd thread.

Then, over the 2nd thread, which has now become the 1st, make double knots with the 3rd, 1st, 4th and 5th thread; then, over the 3rd thread, counting now from right to left, which in the knotting on figured as the 4th: 1 double knot with the 5th and 2nd thread.

Make the same group from right to left, only at the 3rd change of thread make 5 double knots instead of 2, and let the last knots count for the new group of bars, turned the opposite way.

OPPOSING BARS.

WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 569.]

FORMATION OF THE KNOTS ON THE WRONG SIDE.

WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 569.]

APPEARANCE OF THE KNOTS ON THE RIGHT SIDE.

WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 569.]

In the middle of two opposing groups of bars, make a flat double knot with 2 of the right threads and 2 of the left.

When the second horizontal bar is finished, turn the work round, and go on working on the wrong side, making plain double knots, as in fig. 571, turned in one row, all from right to left, and in the next, from left to right.

When you have worked 10 such rows of knots, begin to make one knot less on either side of a group, so as to form pointed scallops of knots which you finish off with a plain bar.

Tassels are then made with the threads that issue from each scallop, and when these are sewn up, turn the work round to the right side, where the knots, made on the wrong side, will present the appearance indicated in fig. 572.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C No. 6, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 25, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.[A]

COLOURS: Écru, Rouge-Turc 321 and Rouge-Grenat 358 or Violet-Mauve 315 and 316, and Vert-Bouteille 494.[A]]

MACRAMÉ FRINGE (fig. 573).—Entire length of the threads for No. 6 of Coton à tricoter D.M.C: 65 c/m.

Knot on double threads, as in figs. 517 and 524, to count as single in the working directions = * 1 thread of red, colour 358, 3 of écru, 1 of red, colour 358, 1 of red, colour 321, 3 of écru, 1 of red, colour 321, and repeat from *.

1st row—6 chain knots made with every 4 threads.

2nd row—a single horizontal bar of knots.

3rd row—collecting knots, fig. 530, made with the écru threads over the 4 dark and the 4 light red ones, and flat double knots over the 4 écru threads.

4th row—collecting knots over 4 écru threads with 4 red and 2 écru threads.

5th row—collecting knots in the centre of the groups, with the écru threads.

6th row—similar to the 4th.

7th row—similar to the 5th.

Then take the red threads on the right and left and twist them, each cluster separately, from left to right between the thumb and forefinger, as you do in making a cord, then unite them together, twisting them from left to right. Fasten off the cord by a knot, beneath which the ends of thread form a little tassel. Collect all the écru threads together and make them into a heavy tassel with the aid of supplementary threads.

BORDER WITH SHELL KNOTS.

MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 5 to 25.[A]

COLOURS: Vert-Mousse 471 and Rouge-Cornouille 450, or Rouge-Framboise 686 and Gris-Coutil 323.[A]]

BORDER WITH SHELL KNOTS (figs. 574, 575, 576, 577).—Fill the macramé shuttles with the requisite length of thread. Knot the threads on, as in fig. 520, in the following order; 1 double thread of colour 471, 6 double threads of colour 450, 2 of colour 471, 6 of colour 450, 1 of colour 471.

From left to right and over the 1st thread: 1 double knot with the 2nd thread; over the 4th thread of colour 450, and from right to left, double knots with the 3rd, 2nd and 1st thread of the same colour = from left to right: 1 double knot with the 6th thread of colour 450 over the 5th, and with the 3rd thread over the 2nd = from right to left: 5 double knots over the 8th thread of colour 450 = from left to right: 1 double knot over the 10th thread, 1 double knot over the 5th thread, 1 double knot over the 1st thread = from right to left: 7 double knots over the 12th thread = from left to right: 3 detached double knots.

Then, from left to right, and subsequently from right to left = with 6 green threads: 2 double bars slanting over the 2 red threads (see the top of fig. 577); unite the 4 red threads in the middle and make a shell knot with them, fig. 575, consisting of 6 flat knots, fig. 576; take 2 threads on the right and 2 on the left, turn them down to the left and right, and then from the wrong side to the right, over the threads that come from the bars and close with a flat knot. On the sides, make double bars and between each bar, 2 single chain knots.

WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 574.]

WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 574.]

Fill the empty spaces under the outside shell knots, with 9 flat double knots; under the middle knot make bars of inter-crossed knots, of which a clear explanation will be found in fig. 577.

To join two borders of the kind together, pass the thread of the second border over the thread on which the bar in the middle of the outer scallop is knotted.

FRINGE WITH SHELL KNOTS (fig. 578).—Entire length of the single threads for No. 12 of Coton à tricoter D.M.C: 90 c/m.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 15.

COLOURS: Écru and Rouge-Turc 321.]

The threads must be taken double, counting as one. Knot them on, as in fig. 524. This exceedingly effective pattern is a very simple one to work and can easily be copied from the engraving by following, for the bars, figs. 537 to 544; for the collecting knots fig. 530, for the large shell knots figs. 575 and 576, and for the chain of flat double knots, fig. 536 detail _a_.

The tassels that complete the fringe must depend from the last collecting knot and hang between the triple bars of knots and beneath the collecting knot.

COLOURS: Écru, Rouge-Turc 321 and Bleu-Indigo 312.[A]]

MACRAMÉ BORDER OR FRINGE (fig. 579).—Entire length of the threads for No. 10 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 170 c/m.

1st row—knot on the threads with double round picots, and one horizontal double bar. The colours should succeed each other as follows: * 4 blue scallops, 4 écru, 5 red, 4 écru, repeat from *.

2nd row—begin working from right to left: 1 single chain with 2 single threads, fig. 545, and 7 changes of the threads; after the 3rd change of the threads, connect the 2nd chain with the 3rd, the 4th with the 5th. Finish off every 2 chains with a flat double knot.

Make, over the first blue threads; 1 waved plait, fig. 531 detail _b_, = over the 14th écru thread: 1 bar of double knots, 3 going and 4 returning = over the last 2 red threads: waved knots, and repeat from * = then lay down 2 fresh cords, to make a double horizontal bar of knots.

3rd row—with the blue threads: 5 large shell knots, fig. 576, 1 triple bar of double knots to the left and right = between the bars 9 large shell knots = 1 triple bar of double knots to the right and left and finish with 5 large shell knots, as above.

With the écru threads: 3 flat double knots, 1 double horizontal bar of knots = over the last écru thread: 3 waved knots with 12 changes of the threads = 1 more double bar of knots = join the cord to the outside thread of the blue triple bar. With the red threads: 1 shell knot, figs. 576 and 577, over 12 threads; 1 double bar on both sides of the shell knot with the outside threads, 1 single chain, consisting of 7 changes of the threads, made with the outside red threads; join the red thread and the light one that comes from the double bar together, on the left.

The light thread is afterwards looped into the blue thread on the right = 4 collecting knots over 6 red threads on the right and left, 1 collecting knot over all the red threads and one, on both sides, over 6 red threads.

After joining the threads on both sides, carry on the single chain with 3 changes of the threads = over the first red thread of the left chain, make 1 double horizontal bar with all the disengaged threads = below the bar, 4 flat double knots = 1 single horizontal bar = 8 double knots, each over a single thread = 1 double bar of knots.

From this point, continue with the écru threads: 1 row of double knots, 1 double horizontal bar and 1 waved plait; then join: 2 blue threads and 2 écru, and 2 écru and 2 red, together, to make flat double knots; the double knots between remain of one colour.

The bottom border is like the top one with the exception of the picots.

When this pattern is to be used for an insertion or a gimp, the threads should be fastened off, as indicated in fig. 558.

COLOURS: Noir grand teint 310, Gris-Tilleul 392 and 330, Brun-Cuir 430 and 432, Bleu-Indigo 334 or Chiné d’or D.M.C, Bleu et Or.[A]]

MACRAMÉ BORDER (figs. 580, 581, 582).—Wind the threads on shuttles and knot them on, as in fig. 515, in the following order: 2 threads of, either colour 334 or Chiné d’or (blue and gold), 2 of colour 330, 2 of colour 392, 1 of colour 432, 1 of colour 310, 2 of colour 430, 1 of colour 310, 1 of colour 432, 2 of colour 392, 2 of colour 330, 2 of colour 334, or of Chiné d’or blue and gold.

Begin with the open work on either side of the crossed bars, figs. 581 and 582, with 4 blue threads and by 4 changes of the threads outwards and 3 inwards = the same with 4 light green threads with 3 changes outwards and 2 inwards = then with the dark green threads, with 2 changes outwards and 3 inwards = over the 4th dark green thread, 1 double knot with the 1st dark green thread with the 4th light green one and with the 4 blue.

Over the 3 next, dark green threads, knot the 4 light green threads and the 4 blue, from right to left, and from left to right, thus forming altogether 8 bars across the first bar = then knot the 8 first threads over the last dark green one = add a crossed bar with 7 changes of the threads outwards and 5 inwards.

Middle group, left side: 1 double knot with the first light brown thread over the second thread; 3 double knots with the black threads (the only ones that are to be taken double) and 2 light brown threads over the 1st and 2nd dark brown ones.

In the 2nd bar, knot the 1st dark brown thread, and in the 3rd, the 4 dark brown ones, over the black thread. On the right, a similar group, slanting towards the one on the left.