Chapter IX: Part 9

9th row—* 7 plain on the 7 chain; 1 plain on each stitch of the pyramid, 3 plain on the stitch at the point; 4 plain on the 7 chain on the opposite side = turn the work = ** 1 chain, miss 1 plain, 1 treble on the 2nd stitch = after the 5th treble, leave out no more stitches between the trebles ***; place the 8th, 9th and 10th trebles on the 2nd of the increased stitches. Repeat on the opposite side from *** to ** and join to the 4th of the plain stitches = make 17 trebles in all, then one plain over each chain, 1 plain on each treble and 1 picot after every 3rd plain = after the 4th and up to the 8th picot, leave only 2 plain between: 11 picots in all = in conclusion: 3 plain more on the 7 chain and repeat the whole 7 times from *.

The little wheel at the top of the square is begun with 10 chain for the ring = 16 plain on the ring, 4 chain, * 1 treble, 1 chain = repeat 14 times from *; 16 trebles in all, including the chain stitches = then on each treble and each chain stitch: 1 plain; after 4 plain: 1 picot; connect the wheel first on the right.

The 2nd picot is to be fastened to the 9th picot of the large scallop = proceed with: 3 times 4 plain with 1 picot = after the 3rd plain, fasten the picot to the 3rd picot of the next large scallop and complete the small wheel. The left wheel is made and inserted in the same manner as the right one. The wheels at the bottom of the square require for the foundation ring: 14 chain, on which you make 21 plain = on these: 4 chain, * 1 treble, 1 chain = repeat 19 times from *; 21 trebles in all, including the chain stitches = 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 8th picot of the 2nd scallop; 4 chain, finish the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 8 chain, join to the 10th picot of the scallop, 8 chain, complete the picot; 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 8 chain, join to the 2nd picot of the 3rd scallop, 8 chain, close the picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 4th picot of the 3rd scallop; 4 chain, complete the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot and so on, until you have 14 picots round the wheel. Repeat the same wheel to the left between the 4th and 5th scallop.

The edging of this second kind of square is also slightly different; fasten the thread to the 6th picot of the 1st scallop before the small wheel, then working from right to left, count: * 10 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of the small wheel; 8 chain, 1 triple treble on the 4th picot of the wheel = upwards: 9 chain, 1 double treble on the 6th picot of the wheel; 9 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 8th scallop, 12 chain, 1 plain on the 7th picot of the scallop, 11 chain **, 1 quadruple treble on the 9th picot of the 8th scallop and on the 3rd picot of the 7th; draw the last loops of the two trebles up together. Repeat once more from ** to *, then: 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 6th scallop; *** 12 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the 9th picot of the 6th scallop, retain 2 loops of the treble on the needle, make 4 more overs, join the treble to the 3rd picot of the 5th scallop; finish the bars, 12 chain, 1 plain in the 6th picot of the next scallop = 12 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd picot of the 7 empty picots of the bottom wheel; 9 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot; 12 chain, 1 double treble on the 6th picot, 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 4th scallop, 14 chain ***, 1 septuple treble, in the 9th and 3rd picots of the 4th and 3rd scallops ****. For the preceding treble, you pass first through 4 loops only, then make 4 more overs for the other half of the treble, and finish the last loops one by one. Repeat from **** to ***. One row of plain stitches completes the square.

After having made the square similar to that of the upper one, you have merely to add the large wheels at the top.

The setting of chain stitches and trebles is begun at the first scallop between 2 wheels = 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 1st scallop; 14 chain, 2 quintuple trebles, of which the last loops only are joined together, on the 9th and 3rd picot of the 1st and 2nd scallop, = 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the next scallop; * 14 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of the wheel; 10 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot, 10 chain, 1 treble on the 6th picot; 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 3rd scallop; 14 chain, 2 sextuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 3rd and 4th scallop; 15 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 4th scallop; 16 chain, 2 sextuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 4th and 5th scallop; 16 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 5th scallop; 15 chain ** 3 septuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 5th and 6th scallop. Repeat from ** to *; and make 4 figures with rounded edges. When all the figures are finished, join them together by trebles of a suitable length.

Introduce the thread at the corner stitch on the widest side of the 2nd 8 pointed star and make: 1 plain, 6 chain, miss 3 stitches, 1 plain on the 3 next stitches, 4 chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the next 3 plain stitches.

Make 11 loops in this manner, each consisting of 4 chain and 3 plain, then 2 loops of 3 chain and 2 plain = then miss as many stitches of the square at the edge of the collar as were left empty in the second square; 2 plain and draw the loop each time through the 2 last stitches of the opposite square = 1 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain stitch of the opposite side; 1 chain, 3 plain on the edge of the first square, 1 chain, 1 single, 1 chain, miss 3 stitches, 3 plain, 5 chain, bring the loop from the wrong side to the right = on the chain stitches: 4 plain, 2 chain, miss 3, 3 plain.

From this point onwards, fasten all the bars of chain stitches to the loops produced by the same stitches in the 2nd square. Thus, the 1st bar consisting of 5 chain, the 2nd will consist of 7 chain on which make 7 plain, and then add 2 more chain. Nowhere must the two first chain stitches be uncovered.

The 3rd bar must consist of 9 chain, 9 plain and 2 chain = the 4th of 11 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 5th of 13 chain, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 2 chain = the 6th of 16 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 7th of 18 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 8th of 21 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 9th of 24 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 10th of 26 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 11th and last of 28 chain, 32 plain, 2 chain, fasten off.

As the square with the semicircles in it, has more plain stitches in the edge than the one with the eight-pointed star in it, the stitches must be divided so that you miss 3 from time to time, instead of two. When the 7 top figures are finished, join the 7 bottom ones to them, each separately, by a row of plain stitches, made on the wrong side of the work. Below the first square with the semicircles, comes the eight-pointed star, below the next eight-pointed star, the square with the semicircles, and so on.

A narrow edging forms the outside border, the foundation of which is a row of plain stitches running all along the squares. At the middle of the square you decrease by 2 stitches, and at the point where two squares meet, by 3. When you reach the left side and the end of the row, make 3 plain on the corner stitch, then: * 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 14 chain, join them to the first of the 5 first plain (drop the thread at each scallop and bring it forward from the wrong side to the right) = on the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 11 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = along the square: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, then 14 chain, join them to the first plain = over the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 14 chain, join them in turning back between the 5th and 6th of the 10 plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain; on the half-finished scallop: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain ** = on the plain stitches of the edge: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, come back, join to the 1st of the 4 plain = on the 12 chain: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain *** = repeat on the same figure once from * to *** and once from * to **.

This makes 77 stitches, the number there ought to be on the wide side of the straight-edged figures.

The scallops vary a little on the rounded sides. There, you should have 110 stitches, counting from the corner to the treble that marks the middle at the bottom. The single scallops, between the triple scallops of the border, are also all made over 8 stitches; the first triple scallop is made over 20 stitches, the 2nd, 3rd and 4th triple scallop over 16 stitches.

Make no single scallop after the 4th triple one; which is immediately succeeded by the 5th triple scallop, over 16 stitches.

Altogether, round each star, there are 9 triple and 8 single scallops. After the 8th single one, make 3 plain stitches on the 2 chain stitches of the connecting bar.

On the 32 plain stitches of the last bar: 8 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and join to the 5th of the 8 plain = on the 12 chain: 5 plain, 2 chain, draw the loop through the picot in the middle of the last single scallop, 2 chain, close the picot, 8 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the bar: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and fasten them to the 1st plain = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join them to the 4th plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 8 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the half-finished scallop: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = in the bar: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = 12 chain, bring them back and fasten them to the 1st plain. 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join them close to the scallop above = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and join them to the 4th plain of the 2nd scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in each of the 2 half-finished scallops: 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = finish with 4 plain, 3 plain on the 2 chain and repeat from * round all the rounded parts.

The lozenges that fill the empty spaces between the large figures are made in 7 rows, on a ring formed of 4 chain.

1st row—5 chain, 1 treble on the ring, 2 chain, 8 trebles in all, including the bar of chain stitches.

2nd row—3 plain over 2 chain, 1 plain over each treble.

3rd row—7 chain, 1 treble over the treble beneath, 5 chain, 1 treble; 8 trebles in all.

4th row—* 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long; ** repeat the reverse way to * = 1 plain on the treble, 7 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 plain, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 treble, 1 plain. Repeat twice from * to **, followed by: 9 chain, miss 1, 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, 1 single ***. Repeat once from * to ***, then again from * to **, and add 5 single all along the scallop.

5th row—9 chain * 1 plain on the top stitch of the small leaf, 7 chain, 1 treble on the middle stitch of the scallop, 7 chain, 1 treble on the next scallop = 9 chain, 1 plain on the leaf, 9 chain, 1 treble on the scallop, 7 chain, 1 treble on the next scallop, 7 chain and repeat once from *.

6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the row before, 3 plain on the points.

7th row—on each side of the lozenge 3 little scallops on 8 chain, with 3 picots and 1 picot below the scallops and between every 4 plain; the scallops at the points extend over 4 stitches only, so that the picot below is left out.

These lozenges are fastened on two sides to the middle picot of the triple scallop; then, starting from the 3rd scallop of the lozenge you make, 8 chain, join them to the middle picot of the 1st triple scallop; coming back over the 8 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain and finish the scallop. The next scallop, at the point of the lozenge, is fastened by a picot of 6 chain, to the middle picot of the 6th scallop underneath the connecting bar. Repeat the same on the 2nd side and make 6 lozenges in all.

The lace that finishes off the collar at the neck must be made to stand up, and is begun by a row of trebles on the plain stitches.

From the corner as far as the 2nd treble of the 4th scallop, make triple trebles, from the 4th scallop to the 6th chain stitch after the 5th scallop, make double trebles, from this point to the 2nd scallop of the next semicircle, only single trebles, then again double trebles and finish with triple trebles as at the beginning. Decrease by 2 or 3 stitches in each square.

When this row of trebles is finished, fasten off, and fasten on again on the right and on the base of the 1st treble which you border with 4 chain, then follow: * 15 plain on the row of trebles, put the needle in under the 2 loops of the trebles = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 double treble, miss 4 plain, 1 double treble on the 5th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double treble, 2 chain, 1 double treble, 2 chain, miss 4 plain = turn the work = bring the loop to the front; ** 1 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain, 1 plain on the treble; repeat 3 times again from ** and add 4 plain on the trebles = turn the work = 6 chain, 1 double treble over the treble beneath; again 3 times 6 chain stitches and 1 double treble; join the 4th set of 6 chain to the 4th plain = bring the thread back to the front: 1 plain on the 6 chain = 8 chain, miss 1, and make on the others: 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 2 double trebles, 1 plain stitch on the 6 chain. The next point comes above a treble; you make 7 points in all. After the 7th: 5 plain, then 7 chain, 1 plain on each point between the points and join.

Join the 8th set of 7 chain on to the 4th plain of the first treble = then add: 2 chain, draw the loop from the wrong side to the right through the 1st plain stitch; 8 trebles, 1 picot, 4 trebles, 12 chain, bring them back over the picot, join it between the 4th and 5th trebles; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain.

Over each point: 1 picot and over the picot 1 scallop, like the one made in the square. On the 7th point only 1 picot = after the last treble on the last chain: 2 chain; then go on with the plain stitches until you have 27 and repeat from *.

In the semicircles that follow you leave out the first and last little scallops, the first and the last scallop must be joined together by the first and the last picot; in the last semicircle, make 6 little scallops, the same as you did in the first.

CROCHET CHAIR-BACK (fig. 485).—The close leaves in plain stitch of the large centre star, the 4 corner figures forming a cross and the diagonal figures, all have to be made separately and sewn on afterwards in their proper place. To join the separate parts neatly together, draw a square the size of the work on a piece of thick paper or waxcloth, divide it into 8 parts by means of straight and diagonal lines, sew the separate pieces of crochet upon it, face downwards, in their proper places and make the trebles on the wrong side of the work.

Begin by the centre star and make: 12 chain, close the ring.

1st row—23 plain on the 12 chain.

2nd row—9 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd plain, 4 chain, 1 treble and so on until you have 12 trebles, including the 5 chain.

3rd row—1 plain on each chain stitch and each treble; 60 plain in all.

4th row—3 plain, 1 picot, altogether 20 picots in the row, then fasten off.

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The leaves round the ring have 3 petals, 1 large and 2 small; you begin by the large one, and make the small ones afterwards. The petals should be begun from the point and not from the bottom as is generally done—30 chain; coming back: 4 single, 4 plain, 5 half trebles, 8 trebles, 4 half trebles, 4 plain stitches, 3 plain on the 1st chain = on the second side of the chain make the same number of stitches but in the reverse order.

Small petal on the left—21 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 3 half trebles, 5 trebles, 3 half trebles, 3 plain, 3 plain on the top. Repeat the same series of stitches in the reverse order on the second side = at the 10th stitch of the large petal and counting upwards from below, draw the thread through the 10th stitch of the small petal, and do the same through the 9 next stitches = for this purpose drop the loop each time and draw it back through the opposite stitch, from the wrong side to the right. After making the same petal on the right, fasten off; fasten on again at the outer edge and edge the 3 petals with 1 plain on each stitch and 3 plain on the stitch at the point; make 4 leaves with 3 petals each.

Between the pointed leaves, which are afterwards placed on the diagonal line of the square, come some very long leaves which are rounded towards the top—29 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches; carry on the trebles until you have, on coming to the last chain, 7 trebles = turn the work and make 1 plain on each stitch of the row = turn the work = 1 plain on every stitch all round = turn the work = * 9 plain, 4 half trebles, 3 trebles, 2 double trebles, join the last loops of the 2 last trebles together; set the 20th and 21st double treble on the same stitch = the 20th treble 2½ trebles long; the 21st a triple treble = on the next plain stitch; 1 treble 3½ trebles long and 1 quadruple treble = again on the next stitch: 2 trebles, the first of them 4½ trebles long, the 2nd a quintuple one = on the 3rd plain: 2 quintuple trebles, 4 chain, 1 plain on the plain stitch of the 2nd row and next to the last quintuple treble, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 2 double trebles on one stitch, 2 triple trebles on one stitch **, 1 quadruple treble on the 2 next stitches. Repeat from ** to *, therefore in the reverse order.

To make the large star which is the first of the figures placed on the diagonal line, make: 4 chain, close the ring.

1st row—10 chain,* 1 double treble on the 4 chain, 5 chain. Repeat 4 times from *, 6 trebles in all.

2nd row—over 5 chain: 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 2½ trebles long **, 1 triple treble. Repeat once from ** to * and 5 times from * to **.

3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.

4th row—3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, * 2 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain, miss 1 = coming back: 4 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain = on the plain stitches of the 3rd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat from *, with this difference that the trebles that are placed over the half trebles of the 2nd row must begin with 3 chain. Make, altogether, 12 long bars, 6 of them beginning with 2 chain and 6 with 3; these bars remain empty; after the 12th you fasten off.

5th row—fasten on the thread to the top stitch of a treble, 11 chain, 1 plain. Repeat this series 11 times.

6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the 5th row, then 1 plain on each stitch of the 6th row.

8th row—over 9 bars and 8 spaces: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain and so on. Add nothing further to the 2 rows of plain stitches of the 10th, 11th and 12th picots.

For the second star of the corner figure 4 chain, close.

1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, * 5 chain, 1 treble. Repeat 3 times from *; 5 trebles in all, including the chain stitches.

2nd row—* 1 chain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble **. Repeat from ** to *, and the whole series 4 times.

3rd row—* 1 chain, 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain = coming back, 4 plain on the 4 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain = on the stitches of the 2nd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain, miss 1, 4 plain = coming back: 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from *, fasten off.

4th row—fasten on at the point of one of the bars and make from one bar to the other: 9 chain, 1 plain on each bar.

5th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row.

6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row and join the 4 last stitches to the 4 that are under the 11th treble of the 1st star, taking care to put the trebles one above the other.

The 3rd star also begins with 4 chain formed into a ring.

1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, join them to the 4th of the 8 chain.

2nd row—2 chain, * 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble, 1½ treble long, 1 double treble **. Repeat from ** to * and then, 3 times from * to **.

3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.

4th row—1 chain, 2 plain, * 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain. Repeat 3 times from *; after the 8th picot: 3 chain.

5th row—15 chain, 1 triple treble on the 5th and on the 2nd plain stitch between 2 picots, 9 chain, 1 triple treble and so on. Altogether, including the chain stitches, 8 trebles and 8 times 9 chain; join to the 7th chain.

6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the previous row; join the 4 last stitches again to the 4th stitch of the 2nd star and fasten off.

The open work border is made from the 1st large star, beginning near the 9th treble at the point where the picots leave off. After fastening on the thread: 5 chain, miss 2 plain, 1 plain on the 3rd = at the point where the circles meet, miss 3 or 4 stitches on each side and carry the treble over the indent of the scallop.

After finishing the picots of chain stitches on the two sides and as far as the 3rd treble of the large star, fasten off; fasten on again on the right of the large star: 4 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain; put the needle only through the 2 upper loops of the chain stitch; in the indent, connect 3 picots by 1 chain stitch; 2 chain and 1 plain between the next plain stitches. Fasten off. The 2 next rows both begin on the right and consist of plain stitches only; in the indent of the rings join 3 stitches of the preceding row together by 1 plain.

The 5 leaves over the circles—Begin with the middle and largest one—25 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain and so on, 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each stitch, passing under only 1 loop of the stitches = on the stitch you missed: 3 plain; on the second side: 1 plain on each stitch = turn the work = do as in the last row = turn the work = do as in the 2 last rows, excepting as regards the 5 last stitches which you leave untouched = turn the work = 15 plain, * 1 chain = turn the work = 12 plain = turn the work = 12 plain on the 12 plain and on all those you missed **. Fasten off the thread. On the 2nd side of the leaf: draw the thread through the 6th stitch, counting upwards from below and on the side that is not indented, 15 plain and repeat from * to ** = then make: 1 row of plain, putting the needle through both the loops of the lower stitches = at the points of the leaves: 3 plain, in the indents of the leaves miss 1 stitch.

First leaf on the right of the large leaf—25 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain; 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each stitch, 18 stitches altogether, to the corner stitch; 3 plain on the corner stitch. The 2nd side is worked like the 1st.

Add 3 more rows of plain stitches and increase 3 plain on the stitch at the point = in the 3rd row leave the 5 last stitches empty = turn the work = 11 plain, 1 chain = turn the work = 11 plain and 5 plain on the 5 stitches that were passed over; fasten off.

On the opposite side fasten on the thread on the wrong side at the 8th stitch counting from the point: 12 plain, 1 chain = turn the work = 12 plain = turn the work = make plain stitches up to the end of the leaf and border it, like the large leaf, with plain stitches = join the 8 first stitches to the corresponding ones in the large leaf = make 4 leaves all alike.

2nd leaf on the left—19 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd chain; 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding stitches, 3 plain on the stitch at the point = turn the work = 1 row of plain stitches = turn the work = 1 row of plain = turn the work = 1 row of plain, excepting on the last 7 stitches = turn the work = 14 plain, 1 chain = 3 more rows to and fro with 11 plain; fasten off, and fasten on again on the 2nd side at the 6th stitch counting from below: 2 rows of 11 plain and 1 row to the end of the leaf = then encircle this leaf, like the others with plain stitches, join the 8 last stitches to the last 8 of the large leaf = make 4 leaves all alike.

3rd leaf on the right—18 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 5 trebles in all = turn the work = 4 rows of plain worked to and fro; on the stitch at the point: 3 plain = after the 4th row: 4 trebles, 8 plain, 1 chain, 4 plain, 1 chain, 4 plain, 1 chain, then plain stitches to the end = fasten off. On the second side, fasten on to the 6th stitch counting downwards from the top: 9 plain = coming back: 3 plain, 1 chain, 7 plain = coming back: 7 plain, 1 chain = then to the end of the leaf, 1 plain on each stitch.

3rd leaf on the left—14 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble; 4 rows of plain all round, 3 plain on the stitch at the point, and 3 plain on the added stitch. After the 4th row: 14 plain = turn the work = 10 plain = turn the work = 3 single, 7 plain = coming back: 7 plain = coming back again: 7 plain; after the last plain, 1 single on each plain up to the top = fasten off.

On the second side of the leaf: 9 plain = turn the work = 5 plain = turn the work = 5 plain, 1 single on each of the remaining stitches = turn the work = surround the whole leaf with plain stitches; 3 plain on each stitch at the point; join the 8 last stitches to the 8 last of the 2nd leaf.

Branch on the right and 1st leaf—28 chain, miss 1, 4 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, miss 2 stitches, 5 plain = on the second side of the chain: * 1 plain on each stitch, 3 plain on the 2nd of the missed stitches. Repeat 3 times from *. After the 4th row of plain: 6 chain = turn the work = 1 row of plain on both sides and plain stitches on the 6 chain; fasten off the thread. Counting back the last stitches, fasten on the thread at the 18th stitch, make one more row of plain, fasten off.

2nd leaf of the branch—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches; 4 rows of plain, to and fro, in each of the stitches of the last row. The rows touch, and therefore encircle the leaf.

3rd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches, 4 rows of plain, to and fro round the leaf; 3 plain on the stitch at the top of the leaf and 3 on the one at the bottom.

When these 3 leaves are finished, join them together on the wrong side so that the end of the 2nd leaf is parallel with the last treble of the 1st leaf, and the end of the 3rd leaf parallel with the 1st of the last plain stitches of the 2nd leaf. Having sewn these 3 leaves together, carry on the plain stitches with the thread of the 3rd little leaf over the two others. Fasten off the thread, join it on again at the 10th plain stitch of the 3rd little leaf, counting the stitches downwards from the top = 40 chain, 1 single on the 34th chain = on the ring: 10 plain, 1 plain each chain and 1 plain on each stitch of the leaves = then, make 3 more rows of plain and 2 plain on every second stitch of the 10 stitches in the ring.

Having reached the chain stitches, fasten on the thread, turn the work and continue the other rows. When the rows of plain stitches are finished, draw a thread through the chain stitches and pull them gently together.

Branch on the left and 1st leaf—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd chain, 2 chain, 1 treble 1½ treble long, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 1½ treble long, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder the same as for the right leaf.

2nd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The rest the same as for the right leaf.

3rd leaf—12 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder, as well as the little ring, the same as for the right leaf. Make altogether 4 leaves for the right side and 4 for the left.

Calyx of the small flowers.—11 chain = turn the work = 1 plain on the first 5 chain, 3 plain on the 6th chain, 1 plain on the 5 other chain = turn the work = * 2 chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, ** 3 trebles on the second of the 3 plain, on the 6th chain, repeat once from ** to * = turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding stitches, 3 single on the added stitch = turn the work = 1 single on the first 2 plain; plain stitches as far as the middle stitch; 13 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each chain stitch, 6 plain, 2 single. Fasten off. Make 8 calices in all.

Small flowers of three different sizes—Make altogether, 24 large, 12 of medium size, and 16 small.

For the large flowers—18 chain, close the ring, 24 plain on the 18 chain; 1 plain on every stitch of the preceding row and 1 picot after every second plain stitch. Join the first and the last picots of 2 large flowers to the calyx, the 2nd and the 3rd picots of one large flower to the 10th and 11th picots of the other. Join the 1st and 11th picots of the 3rd flower to the 8th picot of the first and to the 5th of the second flower.

For the medium-sized flowers—14 chain, close the ring = 20 plain on the ring, then a second row of plain with 1 picot after every second plain stitch.

These flowers connect the centre figure with the corner one.

For the small flowers—10 chain, close the ring = 16 plain on the ring, then a second row of plain stitches with a picot after every second stitch. Sew the medium-sized flowers and the small ones to the big ones with overcasting stitches.

As regards the bars of chain stitches that complete the pattern they can easily be copied from the illustration.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

Tatting.

On account of a similarity in their construction, a chapter on tatting seems to form a natural sequence to the one on crochet and is in some ways a preparation for that on macramé which succeeds it.

The English name of tatting is said to be derived from «tatters» and to denote the frail disconnected character of the fabric. By the Italians it was formerly called «occhi», whilst in the East it still bears the name of «makouk», from the shuttle used in making it.

In the eighteenth century, when tatting was in great vogue, much larger shuttles than our present ones were used, because of the voluminous materials they had to carry, silk cord being one.

SHUTTLES.—The tatting shuttle consists of two oval blades of either bone, ivory, mother of pearl or tortoise-shell, pointed at both ends, and joined together in the middle. A good shuttle contributes materially to the rapid and perfect execution of the work and attention should be paid in its selection to the following particulars: that it be not more than 7 c/m. long and 2 or 3 c/m. wide: that the two ends be close enough to prevent the thread from protruding; this is more especially important in tatting with two shuttles and lastly, that the centre piece that joins the two oval blades together should have a hole bored in it, large enough for the thread to pass through.

In filling the shuttle, be careful not to wind on too much thread at once, or the blades will gape open at the ends and the thread get soiled by constant contact with the worker’s hands.

MATERIALS.—A strongly twisted thread such as Fil d’Alsace D.M.C, Fil à dentelle D.M.C, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, is best for tatting. We particularly recommend Fil d’Alsace, as forming the best shaped knots and picots. A soft material such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C, can also be used where it suits the purpose better.

FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 486).—The construction of the knots or stitches, appears at first sight to present great difficulties but will be easily mastered by attention to the indications here given. One thing, to be constantly borne in mind is, that when the right hand has passed the shuttle through the loop, it must stop with a sudden jerk and hold the thread tightly extended until the left hand has drawn up the knot. After filling the shuttle, take the end of the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and the shuttle in the right, pass the thread over the third and fourth fingers of the left hand, bring it back towards the thumb and cross the two threads under the fingers, as indicated in fig. 486. Pass the thread that comes from the shuttle round the little finger of the right hand, and give the shuttle the direction shown in the engraving.

SECOND AND THIRD POSITION OF THE HANDS (figs. 487 and 488).—Make the shuttle pass between the first and third fingers, in the direction indicated by the arrow in fig. 487, and bring it out behind the loop.

Here the first difficulties for beginners arise and until they have sufficiently mastered the movements of both hands not to confuse them, we advise them to pay careful attention to the following instructions. As soon as you have put the shuttle through the loop, place the right hand on the table with the thread tightly extended, leaving the left hand perfectly passive.

Then, raising the third and fourth fingers of the left hand with the loop upon them, pull up the loop, stretching the thread tightly in so doing by extending the fingers. By this movement a knot is formed, the first part of the «double knot», which is the most common one in tatting.

Remember that the right hand must be kept perfectly still as long as the left is in motion and that the knot must be formed of the loop thread that is in the left hand.

The right hand, or shuttle thread, must always be free to run through the knots; if it were itself formed into knots it would not have the free play, needed for loosening and tightening the loop on the left hand, as required.

FOURTH POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 489).—The second part of a knot is formed by the following movements: pass the shuttle, as indicated in fig. 489, from left to right, between the first and third fingers through the extended loop; the right hand seizes the shuttle in front of the empty loop and extends the thread; the left hand pulls up this second part of the knot as it did the first.

SINGLE OR HALF KNOTS. JOSEPHINE PICOTS (figs. 490 and 491).—The Josephine picot or purl, as it is also called in tatting, consists of a series of single or half knots formed of the first knot only. These picots may be made of 4 or 5 knots, as in fig. 490, or of 10 or 12 knots, as in fig. 491.

FIFTH POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 492).—When the second knot forming the double knot has been made, the two hands resume the position shown in fig. 487. Fig. 492 reproduces the same and shows us a few finished knots as well.

POSITION OF THE HANDS FOR MAKING A PICOT (fig. 493).—Picots are introduced into tatting patterns as they are into knitting and crochet. They also serve to connect the different parts of a pattern together and render a great many pretty combinations feasible.

OPEN AND CLOSE PICOT (figs. 494 and 495).—These are formed of single knots, leaving a loop on the extended thread, as shown in fig. 494, and a short length of thread between the knots; finish the second half knot and when you have pulled it up, join it to the preceding knot. In this manner the picot represented in fig. 495 is formed quite naturally.

In every kind of tatting the knot that comes after the picot is independent of the loop.

Thus if the directions say: 2 knots, 1 picot, 3 knots, 1 picot, 2 knots, etc., you must count the knot that served to form the loop and not make: 2 knots, 1 picot, 4 knots, etc. To join the different rings, ovals, etc., together by means of picots, take up the thread that runs over the left hand with a crochet needle, inserting it into the picot downwards from above, draw the thread through and pull it up like any other knot.

TATTING WITH TWO SHUTTLES (fig. 496).—Two shuttles are used in tatting when the little rings are not to be connected together at the bottom by a thread, when you want to hide the passage of the thread to another group of knots and when threads of several colours are used.

When you work with two shuttles, tie the two threads together. Pass one thread over the third finger of the left hand, wind it twice round the fourth finger and leave the shuttle hanging down.

Pass the second shuttle into the right hand and make the same movements with it as you do in working with one shuttle only.

DETACHED SCALLOPS (fig. 497).—Make 12 double knots with one shuttle, then tighten the thread so as to draw them together into a half ring; the next knot must touch the last knot of the scallop before it.

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SCALLOPS JOINED TOGETHER AT THE TOP (fig. 498). With one shuttle make 4 double, 1 picot, * 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the half ring, 4 double, draw the thread through the picot and repeat from *.

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SCALLOPS WITH PICOTS (fig. 499).—Make with one shuttle: 4 double, 1 picot, * 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring.

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Leave sufficient length of thread before beginning the next ring, for the rings not to overlap each other = make 4 double, draw the left hand thread through the 5th picot of the preceding ring and repeat from *.

TATTED INSERTION (fig. 500).—Make with one shuttle a ring like the ones in fig. 499, then leaving a length of, from 5 to 10 m/m. of thread, make a second ring = turn the work = leave the same length of thread again, begin a third ring which you join after the 4th double, to the 5th picot of the 1st ring = turn the work after each ring is made, so that all the upper rings represent the right side of the work and all the lower ones the wrong.

TATTED INSERTION (fig. 501).—To be worked with two shuttles. Begin with one thread and one shuttle and make a ring, as in figs. 499 and 500; and a second close to it; then pass the thread over the left hand, take the second shuttle in the right hand and make 6 double on the 2nd thread, after which you again make a ring above and one below with one shuttle only.

EDGING OF TATTING AND CROCHET (fig. 502).—Make with one shuttle: 1 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot twice as long as the others, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 1 double = close the ring = fasten off the two threads on the wrong side with two or three stitches.

After the first knot join the next ring to the preceding one by the long picot, and work the remainder as has been already described.

When you have a sufficient number of rings, pick up the picots by crochet trebles with 3 chain stitches between them. On this first row, crochet a second, consisting of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 single in the treble of the 1st row. To finish the bottom part of the work, make 1 plain in the 1st picot, 3 chain; 1 plain in the 2nd picot, 3 chain, 1 plain in the 3rd picot, 1 chain, 1 plain in the 1st picot of the next ring.

One row of single crochet serves as a footing to the edging.

TATTED EDGING IN THREE ROWS (fig. 503).—Worked with two shuttles. The first row is worked like fig. 495, with one shuttle. The second and third are worked with two.

Fasten the thread of the right hand shuttle into the first picot; then work on this thread the same number of double knots and picots as in the 1st row and join each half ring to the picot of the row before. In the 3rd row, insert 3 picots between the 8 double knots of the row above. Here the Josephine picot may be substituted for the plain picot.

TATTED EDGING (fig. 504).—Worked with two shuttles and two colours. After making a string of rings like those in fig. 502, with Fil d’Alsace D.M.C No. 30 écru, fasten the blue and unbleached threads of the respective shuttles to the middle picot. Holding the light thread in the right hand, and the dark one laid over the left hand, work: 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double = then put the right hand thread separately through the 2 picots of the rings and continue to make: 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double.

The next row also is made with two shuttles. Hold the light thread in the right hand; with the dark thread, laid across the left hand, make: * 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double = turn the work = with the right hand shuttle make: 6 double, put the thread through the little picot formed above the middle picot of the rings, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work = make with two shuttles: 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, put the light thread through the 2 blue picots and repeat from *. The first row of crochet for the footing consists of chain and plain stitches only, the second, of chain stitches and trebles.

MEDALLION (fig. 505).—Take two colours of thread and fill two shuttles with the light colour and two with the dark. Make with one shuttle: 24 double and 12 picots, 6 of them short and 6 long; close the ring, break off the thread and fasten off the ends by a stitch or two on the wrong side.—For the next 4 rows take two shuttles.

COLOURS: White and Rouge-Géranium 352, or écru and Vert-Mousse 471, Bleu pâle 668 and Jaune d’Or 676.]

1st row—with the shuttles containing the light colour = fasten the ends on to a short picot and make: * 3 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 3 double; pass the right hand thread through one of the short picots of the first ring, repeat the series 5 times from *.

When you reach the 6th half ring, instead of making the second picot, put the left hand thread through the short picot of the first half ring, then complete the last double knots, cut the threads off, pass them through the picot of the ring and fasten them off on the wrong side.

2nd row—with the shuttles filled with the light colour = fasten the ends on to a long picot, then make: * 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the first row and repeat the series 17 times from *.

3rd row—with the shuttles filled with the dark colour = fasten the ends on to one of the picots of the last row and make: * 4 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the 2nd row, make a long picot, 4 double and repeat this series all round the medallion, until you have 18 scallops.

4th row—with the shuttles filled with the dark colour = * 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pass the right hand thread, from the wrong side, through the picot of the 2nd row and begin again from *.

INSERTION OF TATTING AND CROCHET (fig. 506).—Fill two shuttles, one with a light colour, say, Bleu de France 344, the other with a darker, such as Jaune-Rouille 365, and two numbers coarser than the thread you intend to use for the crochet. Begin with the dark colour and make: * 4 double, 1 picot, 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring. With both shuttles, the light colour in the left hand: 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, put the right hand thread through the picot of the first circle; then add: 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double.

With the shuttle, filled with the dark colour: 5 double, pass the thread through the picot of the first ring, make 8 double, 1 picot, 5 double, close the ring. Then, leaving a short length of thread between, make: 4 double, put the thread through the picot of the preceding ring, 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring **; then repeat from * to **.

When you have thus made two equal lengths, join them together with crochet, using a thread two numbers finer than the tatting thread; if the latter for instance was Fil d’Alsace No. 30, you would take No. 50 of the same material for the crochet—1 plain in the 1st picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the middle picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the 3rd and 1st picot = then, over 5 chain: 1 sextuple cluster stitch (fig. 426), 5 chain.