Chapter V: Part 5

To make, in reascending, the second half of the loop, you must lay your thread to the right of the needle, fig. 372.

When you have reached the last thread, enter the needle at the loop, opposite the one it came out of.

DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS (figs. 373 and 374).—As the illustration shows, you have to pick up all the cleared loops, besides two or three on either side of the empty space. The number and length of the threads which you carry across, must correspond with those of the threads you have to replace.

Fasten in, from the right side, a rather finer thread than the one the original web is made of, and make a few stitches over the existing ones, in the row you are about to complete.

Enter the needle upwards from below, through the first disengaged loop, pass it under two threads issuing from one loop, and then bring it back again into the same loop between the two slanting threads, drawing it out again upwards from below, through the next loop, and so on. The new loop must be just equal to the old ones in size. Make in the same manner as at the beginning, two or three stitches at the end of the row, within the edge of the hole. Work back in a similar way, with this difference only, that you turn your work round.

PIQUÉ PATTERN (fig. 375).—The following patterns are suitable for making counterpanes, petticoats, vests and other articles of clothing. Select a suitable number of Coton à tricoter D.M.C. Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 7, and begin by 6 rows of 5 plain stitches and 1 purled, taken from behind.

7th row—purl from behind the 3rd of the 5 plain, and knit 5 plain more and so on.

PIQUÉ PATTERN (fig. 376).—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 14.

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1st and 2nd row—* purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; repeat from *.

3rd and 4th row—* knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat from *.

Repeat the whole from the 1st row.

PIQUÉ PATTERN (fig. 377).—Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 4.

The 8 first rows—knit 2, purl 2.

9th and 10th row—knit 2 over the 2 purled, purl 2 over the 2 knitted of the 8th row.

11th and 12th rows—the same as the first 8 rows.

13th and 14th row—the same as the 9th and 10th row.

15th to the 23rd—the same as the first 8 rows.

STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES (fig. 378).—This pattern is to be worked in stripes, of two colours; we may here take occasion to mention that in choosing two colours, one dark and one light, for a piece of work, the dark cotton should always be one or two numbers finer than the light, because the dark dyes thicken the cotton more than the light ones do. The blue, red and dark brown dyes sink into the cotton more and cause it to swell, whereas the lighter dyes do not affect its thickness.

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Hence it comes, that for the stripes, here described, we were obliged to take No. 8 of the red cotton and No. 6 of the green, in order that the same number of stitches should make the same length of stripe.

Cast on 28 stitches:

1st needle—slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 3, 1 chain stitch.

2nd needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, knit 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

3rd needle—right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

4th needle—wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

5th needle—on the right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

6th needle—on the wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

7th needle like the 5th, 8th needle like the 4th, 9th needle like the 3rd, 10th needle like the 2nd, 11th needle like the 1st. Five plain stitches form a zigzag in the middle of the stripe.

Join the stripes with crochet stitches; of which several kinds are described in the next chapter.

KNITTED SQUARE (fig. 379).—Cast on 2 stitches on to each of the 4 needles. Repeat always 3 times after the asterisk.

1st row—over, knit 1, over, knit 1 *.

2nd row—knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 *.

3rd row—knit 1, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 2 *.

4th row—knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

5th row—knit 1, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 2 *.

6th row—knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 2 *.

7th row—knit 1, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 2 *.

8th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 2, over, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2 *.

9th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 2 *.

10th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 2 *.

11th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2 *.

12th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2 stitches (that is, first knit off the second stitch plain and then the first), knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

13th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 8, purl 3, knit 2 *.

14th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 4, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 4, purl 4, knit 2 *.

15th row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 6, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 6, purl 5, knit 2 *.

16th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

17th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

18th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

19th row—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

20th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

21st row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

22nd row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

23rd row—knit 1, purl 5, knit 3, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 2 *.

24th row—knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

25th row—knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, knit 2 *.

26th row—knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

27th round—knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

Finish the square with several rows of purl and a chain.

PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN (fig. 380).—This easy and extremely elastic stitch is used for all sorts of articles of clothing, and is worked in two rows.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3, with 4 extra for the edge.

1st row—slip 1, knit 1, * over, put the needle into the next stitch, as if to purl it, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right, knit 1, repeat from *, and finish with 2 plain.

2nd row—begin with 1 chain, knit 1, knit the slipped stitch and the over together, over, slip the single stitch that remains, from the left needle to the right. When the knitting is round, you purl and knit the intake alternately.

DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING (fig. 381).—Begin on the wrong side.

1st row—like the 1st row of fig. 380.

2nd row—knit all the stitches, pass the over by putting the needle into it from right to left.

3rd row—like the second row of fig. 380. Now, it is only the second and third row that should alternate.

Patent knitting has a charming effect, done in two colours, by working them alternately backwards and forwards.

PLAITED STITCH (fig. 382).—This kind of stitch is worked in stripes, which, for scarves, counterpanes, etc., are generally joined together with stripes of plain knitting. For counterpanes, the lower numbers of D.M.C cottons are most suitable, for smaller articles the higher numbers. Plaited stitch is formed by crossing the stitches, that is, by knitting the second stitch on the left needle to begin with, and then the first stitch.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.]

If you cross two or more stitches in a few successive rows without slipping them, the stitches will be seen by degrees, to form a plait, as shown in fig. 382.

1st row—purl 4, cast on 3 stitches on to an auxiliary needle, and leave it hanging on the inside of the work; knit 3 and then knit the 3 stitches on the extra needle, purl 4.

Then follow 5 rows, in which you purl all the purled stitches and knit all the plain ones. After which 5 rows you repeat from the beginning.

TURKISH STITCH (fig. 383).—1st row—slip 1, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on to the 2 last stitches, which you knit plain.

2nd row—slip the 1st, knit the 2nd and the 3rd plain, the latter having been formed by the last over on the 1st needle; 1 over, 1 intake with the stitch and the over, 1 over, 1 intake and so on.

TURKISH STITCH WITH BEADS (fig. 384).—String the beads on the thread before you begin to knit. When you only use one kind of bead, thread a needle with your knitting cotton and run it through the thread on which the beads are strung.

When you use several kinds, you must count and thread them on in the required order. Beaded knitting is little in request now, excepting for tobacco pouches and purses; for which you should use Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 35, in any colour, and small beads.

For close beaded knitting, plain stitch is the best. Run the beads down singly at each stitch. The beads will fall on the reverse side of the work so that in knitting with beads, remember that the reverse side will be the right side.

To work fig. 384, which represents the same stitch as fig. 383, you run down 2 or sometimes 3 beads before knitting each stitch.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON (fig. 385).—A variety of pretty things, such as open-work stockings, shawls, curtains etc. can be made in this pattern, worked with two sizes of thread. To give it its full effect it ought to be knitted with coarse needles, Nos. 10, 11, or 12.

MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 60 or 80, écru.[A]]

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 8. Take the coarse thread to begin with.

1st and 2nd row—purl.

3rd row—purl 5, 2 overs, purl 5.

4th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together, slip the next stitch of the previous row, drop the double over, slip the next stitch, 1 over, knit 2 together.

5th row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on.

6th row—like the last. See that the 2 slipped stitches, in the coarse thread, always come on the right side of the work.

7th row—with the coarse thread: purl 4, purl the 2 slipped stitches of the 3rd row together, then repeat from the 1st row.

See that in the 3rd row the 2 overs come between the stitches formed by the 2 stitches that were formed by the 1st over, and the 2 stitches of the 6th row, that were knitted together.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF THREAD (fig. 386).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.

MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 25 to 30 and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 60 or 80.]

1st row—with coarse thread: purl.

2nd row—plain.

3rd row—with fine thread: over, 1 intake, knit 2.

4th row—plain.

5th row—knit 1, over, 1 intake, knit 1.

6th row—plain.

7th row—knit 2, over, 1 intake.

8th row—plain.

9th and 10th row—with the coarse thread: purl.

11th row—plain.

12th row—with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together.

13th row—plain.

14th row—purl. Then repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH DROPPED STITCHES (fig. 387).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 9.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30, Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.]

1st row—over, slip 3, knit 1, 2 overs, knit 3, 2 overs, knit 1.

2nd row—knit 3, slip the next, drop the 2 overs, knit 4, turn the work, purl 4, turn the work, knit 4, drop the 2 overs, slip the next stitch.

3rd row—over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, drop the first of the 4 stitches, knit first the stitch that follows the second double over, then the 4 others plain, and lastly, take up the dropped stitch and knit it plain on the right side of the work.

4th row—knit plain.

5th row—over, slip 3, over, knit 6.

6th row—knit plain, and repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 388).—This pattern may be worked with any one of the D.M.C cottons recommended for fig. 387, but in the case of anything that is not wearing apparel, Fil à pointer D.M.C will be found more suitable. Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 18.

1st row—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3.

Each row marked by an even number is to be knitted plain throughout.

3rd row—knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit 2 together, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.

5th row—knit 2, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, knit 2 together.

7th row—knit 3, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

9th row—knit 4, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2.

11th row—knit 5, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 6.

13th row—knit 7, over, knit 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 389).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 9.

1st row—2 overs, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5, knit 2 together.

2nd row—2 overs, slip the first over on to the right needle, knit the second over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together.

3rd row—2 overs, slip the overs of the two first rows on to the right needle, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—drop the overs of the 3 first rows and knit 8 double stitches, that is, knit 1 stitch on the over, slip it on to the left needle and knit it again.

These 8 stitches finished, make 2 overs, and slip 3, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over. Repeat from the beginning.

Each time you repeat the 4th row, make double stitches on 4 overs, that is, on 4 threads.

MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, or Fil à pointer D.M.C]

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 390).—This pattern is suitable for children’s braces. For Coton à repriser D.M.C Nos. 6 to 20, which is the best for the purpose, you will require fine bone needles.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.

1st row—over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2.

2nd row—knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.

3rd row—knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over.

4th row—slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, over.

5th row—knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

6th row—knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1.

7th row—knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

8th row—knit 2, knit 2 together, over.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 391).—The patterns shown in figs. 391 and 392, are more particularly useful for comforters, shawls, hoods and the like. The needles, which may be either of bone or steel must match the cotton in size; steel needles are the best for any thing finer than No. 16, of D.M.C Coton à tricoter.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.

1st row—over, slip 1 stitch on to the right needle, knit the 2 next stitches, and draw the first stitch over them.

2nd row and 4th row—knit plain.

3rd row—like the first, but note, that the stitch that was the third in the first row, will be the first here.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 392).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.

1st row—over, knit the 2 first together, draw the 3rd stitch through the stitch formed by the intake and knit it off plain, then knit the stitch that was pulled over it.

2nd and 4th row—knit plain.

3rd row—like the first; the third stitch here is the same that was drawn through the third stitch in the first row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 393).—Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 14.

1st row—over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3 together, purl 3, knit 2.

2nd row—knit 5, purl 7, knit 2.

3rd row—over, knit 3, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 2.

4th row—knit 7, purl 5, knit 2.

5th row—over, knit 5, over, knit 2, purl 1, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 2.

6th row—knit 9, purl 3, knit 2.

7th row—over, knit 7, over, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2.

8th row—knit 11, purl 1, knit 1.

Repeat from the beginning but in the reverse order, that is, purling the knitted stitches and knitting the purled.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 394).—Knitted lace looks best, made of a smooth, silky thread which shows up the pattern better than any other material. As a knitted edging makes a very pretty finish to almost any kind of knitted article, we give a selection of some of the easiest and most effective patterns that we consider suitable for the purpose.

MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60, Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.[A]]

Cast on 8 stitches.

1st needle—1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 2, 2 overs, knit 2.

2nd needle—knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

3rd needle—1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 6.

4th needle—2 chain, knit 5, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 395).—Cast on 10 stitches.

1st needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 3, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

2nd needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.

3rd needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 4, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

4th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.

5th needle—knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 5, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

6th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.

7th needle—knit 10, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

8th needle—1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 8.

9th needle—4 chain, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 3, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

Repeat from the second needle.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 396).—Cast on 13 stitches.

MATERIALS: Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.[A]]

1st needle—1 chain, purl 1, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

2nd needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

3rd needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

4th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

5th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

6th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

7th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

8th needle—1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

9th needle—1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

10th needle—8 chain, knit 10, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

MATERIALS: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 20 to 80, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60.[A]]

KNITTED LACE (fig. 397).—Cast on 11 stitches.

MATERIALS: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70, Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 80.[A]]

1st needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, 1 chain.

The 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th, and 16th needle, purled.

3rd needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, 1 chain.

5th needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, 1 chain.

7th needle—1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, 1 chain.

9th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, 1 chain.

11th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, 1 chain.

13th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 3 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, 1 chain.

15th needle—1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

ROSE FOR KNITTING (fig. 398).—Repeat all the directions, 8 ending with the sign *, 7 times.

Cast on 8 stitches, on to 4 needles, two on each; close the ring.

2nd round—8 times: over, knit 1.

The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th round, knit plain.

4th round—over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind *.

6th round—over, knit 4, over, knit 1 from behind *.

8th round—over, knit 7, over, knit 1 from behind *.

10th round—over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 *.

12th round—over, knit 2 together, over, knit 3 *.

14th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5 *.

16th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7 *.

18th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 9 *.

20th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 11 *.

22nd round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 13 *.

24th round—over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 15 *.

26th round—over, knit 3, over, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5 *.

MATERIALS: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C in balls, No. 60 or 70, Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 40, 50 or 60.[A]]

27th round—knit 11, purl 1, knit 6 *.

28th round—over, knit 5, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4 *.

29th round—knit 12, purl 1, knit 5 *.

30th round—over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3 *.

31st round—knit 13, purl 1, knit 4 *.

32nd round—over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 *.

33rd round—knit 14, purl 1, knit 3.

34th round—over, knit 11, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 *.

35th round—knit 15, purl 1, knit 2.

36th round—over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over *.

37th round—knit 16, purl 1, knit 1.

38th round—over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over *.

39th, 41st and 43rd round—knit plain.

40th round—over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4, over, knit 1.

42nd round—knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 *.

44th round—knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3 *.

Finish with three purled rounds.

KNITTED EDGING (fig. 399).—Cast on 43 stitches.

1st needle, make a chain of 2 stitches, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1 from behind, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

MATERIALS: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60.[A]]

2nd needle—1 chain, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

3rd needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

4th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

5th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

6th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

7th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

8th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 17, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

9th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

10th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

11th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

12th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 19, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

13th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1, from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

14th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

15th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

16th needle—like the 8th.

17th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

18th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

19th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

20th needle—like the 4th.

21st needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

22nd needle—slip 1; knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

23rd needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

24th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 4, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 13, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

Repeat from the first needle.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

Crochet Work.

Crochet work, so called from the hook, French _croche_ or _croc_, with which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter, which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet with a favorable reception.

Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood, so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different needles.

TABLE OF THE APPROXIMATE RELATION OF THE D.M.C THREADS AND COTTONS TO THE NUMBERS OF THE CROCHET NEEDLES.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Numbers of the | | | | | | | | | crochet needles | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 16 | 18 | -------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------| Numbers of the | | | | | | | | | cottons | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | -------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------+ Coton pour crochet | --- | 6 | 8-10| 12-14| 16-20|24-40| --- | --- | Coton à tricoter | 6 | 8 |10-12| 14-16| 18-25|25-40| 50 | --- | Fil à pointer | 10 | 15 |20-30| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | Cordonnet 6 fils | 1-1½ | 2-2½ | 3-4 | 10-15| 20-30|40-60|70-90|100-150| Fil d’Alsace | --- | --- | --- | --- | 30 |36-50|60-90|100-150| Fil à dentelle | --- | --- | --- | --- | 25 |30-50|60-90|100-150| -----------------------------------------------------------------------------+

EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNS *.—In crochet, as in knitting, you frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such repetitions will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.

CROCHET STITCHES.—In point of fact, there is only one, because all crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and connected together by being drawn the one through the other.

Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of _tricot-crochet._

In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches: (1) chain stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble stitch, (5) knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale stitch, (8) double stitch.

The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either to and fro, or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain stitches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.

When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as to form a loop, and making one or more chain stitches according to the height required.

At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet workers make a few extra chain stitches with the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few stitches on the wrong side.

They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or tassels as a finish to the work.

POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF (1) CHAIN STITCH (fig. 403).—Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb, hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made by taking up the thread with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an ‘over’.

(2) SINGLE STITCH (fig. 404).—Put the needle in from the right side of the work, into the uppermost loop of the preceding row, take up the thread on the needle and draw it through both loops.

(3) PLAIN STITCH (fig. 405).—Put the needle through, as in fig. 404, from the right side to the wrong, under the upper side, either of a chain, or of a stitch of the preceding row, draw the thread through it in a loop, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. By making the rows of plain stitches follow each other in different ways, a great variety of stitches can be produced, as the illustrations and written instructions here given will show.

ROSE STITCH (fig. 406).—This consists of rows of plain stitches, worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle from the right side, under both the horizontal loops of the preceding row.

RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 407).—This is worked like the foregoing, only that all the rows have to be begun from the same end, and the thread has to be cut off at the end of each row.

RIBBED STITCH (fig. 408).—Worked backwards and forwards, the hook being passed through the back part only of the stitches of the preceding row.

CHAIN STITCH.—Worked like fig. 408, but on one side only.

PIQUÉ STITCH.—This stitch also is only worked on one side. Put the needle in under one of the vertical threads of a stitch and complete the plain stitch. This is a stitch that looks very well on the wrong side; the bars of the loop lie quite close together, which makes it particularly suitable for unlined articles of clothing. It requires a large-sized needle to do this stitch well, especially if the material be a heavy one.

SLANTING STITCH (fig. 409).—Worked entirely on the right side. Take up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish the stitch like a plain stitch.

CROSSED STITCH.—The name which is given to the preceding stitch when both the threads of the stitches in the row before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.

RUSSIAN CROSSED STITCH (fig. 410).—To work this stitch which runs in slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the stitches and underneath the two horizontal ones.

COUNTERPANE STITCH (fig. 411).—Counterpanes can be made in a less close stitch than those just described.

To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop, make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you have on the needle.

KNOTTED STITCH (fig. 412).—This stitch likewise is composed of plain stitches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have described hitherto.

Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the stitch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the last two loops.

LOOP STITCH (fig. 413).—Worked as follows: when you have put the needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the stitch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.

Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain stitches. The side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this stitch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain stitch; in this case, you should make one plain stitch between every two clusters. A loose, fleecy thread is generally used for this stitch, and for washing articles more especially, we recommend Coton à repriser D.M.C.

PLAIN STITCHES FOR A CHAIN (fig. 414).—Begin with two chain stitches, put the needle in between the two threads of the first chain stitch, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through in a loop, turn it round again and draw it through the two loops; then, put the needle into the left part of the stitch that was just made, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through the two loops and so on, to the end.

A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for _mignardise_ when that can not be got of the right size and colour for the required purpose.

(4) TREBLES.—Trebles are little columns, or bars made of loops or stitches. They can be worked, like all other crochet, either to and fro, or all one way. There are different kinds of trebles; half or short trebles, trebles, double trebles, called also ‘long stitch’, and quadruple and quintuple trebles, called ‘extra long stitch’, connected trebles and crossed trebles.

HALF TREBLES (fig. 415).—Turn the cotton round the needle from behind, put the needle in between the trebles of the preceding row, or into one edge of a chain stitch; make an over, bring the needle forward again with the thread, make another over and draw the needle through all three loops.

TREBLES (figs. 416 and 417).—Begin, as for the half treble, by turning the thread round the needle, and putting it in under one edge of the stitch beneath, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, take it up again, and draw it through the two remaining loops.