Chapter III: Front Matter (3)

Take two shanks of beef, and ten quarts of water, let it boil over a slow fire till it be tender, and when the broth is strong, strain it out, wipe the pot and put in the broth again, slice in two penny loaves thin, cutting off the top and bottom, put some of the liquor to it, cover it up and let it stand for a quarter of an hour, so put it into the pot again, and let it boil a quarter of an hour, then put in four pounds of currans, and let them boil a little; then put in two pounds of raisins, and two pounds of prunes, let them boil till they swell; then put in a quarter of an ounce of mace, a few cloves beat fine, mix it with a little water, and put it into your pot; also a pound of sugar, a little salt, a quart or better of claret, and the juice of two or three lemons or verjuice; thicken it with sagoo instead of bread; so put it in earthen pots, and keep it for use.

146. _To make a_ PALPATOON _of_ PIGEONS.

Take mushrooms, pallets, oysters and sweet-breads, fry them in butter, put all these in a strong gravy, heat them over the fire, and thicken them up with an egg and a little butter; then take six or eight pigeons, truss them as you would for baking, season them with pepper and salt, and lay on them a crust of forc'd-meat as follows, _viz._ a pound of veal cut in little bits, and a pound and a half of marrow, beat it together in a stone mortar, after it is beat very fine, season it with mace, pepper and salt, put in the yolks of four eggs, and two raw eggs, mix altogether with a few bread crumbs to a paste: make the sides and lid of your pie with it, then put your ragoo into your dish, and lay in your pigeons with butter; an hour and a half will bake it.

147. _To fry_ CUCUMBERS _for Mutton Sauce_.

You must brown some butter in a pan, and cut six middling cucumbers, pare and slice them, but not over thin, drain them from the water, then put them into the pan, when they are fried brown put to them a little pepper and salt, a lump of butter, a spoonful of vinegar, a little shred onion, and a little gravy, not to make it too thin, so shake them well together with a little flour.

You may lay them round your mutton, or they are proper for a side-dish.

148. _To force a_ FOWL.

Take a good fowl, pull and draw it, then slit the skin down the back, take the flesh from the bones, and mince it very well, mix it with a little beef-suet, shred a jill of large oysters, chop a shalot, a little grated bread, and some sweet herbs, mix all together, season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, make it up with yolks of eggs, put it on the bones and draw the skin over it, sew up the back, cut off the legs, and put the bones as you do a fowl for boiling, tie the fowl up in a cloth; an hour will boil it. For sauce take a few oysters, shred them, and put them into a little gravy, with a lump of butter, a little lemon-peel shred and a little juice, thicken it up with a little flour, lie the fowl on the dish, and pour the sauce upon it; you may fry a little of the forc'd-meat to lay round. Garnish your dish with lemon; you may set it in the oven if you have convenience, only rub over it the yolk of an egg and a few bread crumbs.

149. _To make_ STRAWBERRY _and_ RASBERRY FOOL.

Take a pint of rasberries, squeeze and strain the juice, with a spoonful of orange water, put to the juice six ounces of fine sugar, and boil it over the fire; then take a pint of cream and boil it, mix them all well together, and heat them over the fire, but not to boil, if it do it will curdle; stir it till it be cold, put it into your bason and keep it for use.

150. _To make a_ POSSET _with_ Almonds.

Blanch and beat three quarters of a pound of almonds, so fine that they will spread betwixt your fingers like butter, put in water as you beat them to keep them for oiling; take a pint of sack, cherry or gooseberry wine, and sweeten it to your taste with double refin'd sugar, make it boiling hot; take the almonds, put to them a little water, and boil the wine and almonds together; take the yolks of four eggs, and beat them very well, put to them three or four spoonfuls of wine, then put it into your pan by degrees, stirring it all the while; when it begins to thicken take it off, and stir it a little, put it into a china dish, and serve it up.

151. _To make_ DUTCH-BEEF.

Take the lean part of a buttock of beef raw, rub it well with brown sugar all over, and let it lie in a pan or tray two or three hours, turning it three or four times, then salt it with common salt, and two ounces of saltpetre; let it lie a fortnight, turning it every day, then roll it very straight, and put it into a cheese press day and night, then take off the cloth and hang it up to dry in the chimney; when you boil it let it be boiled very well, it will cut in shivers like dutch beef.

You may do a leg of mutton the same way.

152. _To make_ PULLONY SAUSAGES.

Take part of a leg of pork or veal, pick it clean from the skin or fat, put to every pound of lean meat a pound of beef-suet, pick'd from the skins, shred the meat and suet separate and very fine, mix them well together, add a large handful of green sage shred very small; season it with pepper and salt, mix it well, press it down hard in an earthen pot, and keep it for use.--When you use them roll them up with as much egg as will make them roll smooth; in rolling them up make them about the length of your fingers, and as thick as two fingers; fry them in butter, which must be boiled before you can put them in, and keep them rolling about in the pan; when they are fried through they are enough.

153. _To make an_ AMBLET _of_ COCKLES.

Take four whites and two yolks of eggs, a pint of cream, a little flour, a nutmeg grated, a little salt, and a jill of cockles, mix all together, and fry it brown.

This is proper for a side-dish either for noon or night.

154. _To make a common quaking_ PUDDING.

Take five eggs, beat them well with a little salt, put in three spoonfuls of fine flour, take a pint of new milk and beat them well together, then take a cloth, butter and flour it, but do not give it over much room in the cloth; an hour will boil it, give it a turn every now and then at the first putting in, or else the meal will settle to the bottom; have a little plain butter for sauce, and serve it up.

155. _To make a boil'd_ TANSEY.

Take an old penny loaf, cut off the out crust, slice it thin, put to it as much hot cream as will wet it, six eggs well beaten, a little shred lemon-peel, grate in a little nutmeg, and a little salt; green it as you did your baked tansey, so tie it up in a cloth and boil it; it will take an hour and a quarter boiling; when you dish it up stick it with candid orange and lay a Seville orange cut in quarters round the dish; serve it up with melted butter.

156. _A_ TANSEY _another Way_.

Take an old penny loaf, cut off the out crust, slice it very thin, and put to it as much hot milk as will wet it; take six eggs, beat them very well, grate in half a nutmeg, a little shred lemon-peel, half a pound of clarified butter, half a pound of sugar, and a little salt; mix them well together. _To green your tansey_, Take a handful or two of spinage, a handful of tansey, and a handful or sorrel, clean them and beat them in a marble mortar, or grind it as you would do greensauce, strain it through a linen cloth into a bason, and put into your tansey as much of the juice as will green it, pour over the sauce a little white wine, butter and sugar; lay a rim of paste round your dish and bake it; when you serve it up cut a Seville orange in quarters, and lay it round the edge of the dish.

157. _To make_ RICE PANCAKES.

Take half a pound of rice, wash and pick it clean, cree it in fair water till it be a jelly, when it is cold take a pint of cream and the yolks of four eggs, beat them very well together, and put them into the rice, with grated nutmeg and some salt, then put in half a pound of butter, and as much flour as will make it thick enough to fry, with as little butter as you can.

158. _To make_ FRUIT FRITTERS.

Take a penny loaf, cut off the out crust, slice it, put to it as much hot milk as will wet it, beat five or six eggs, put to them a quarter of a pound of currans well cleaned, and a little candid orange shred fine, so mix them well together, drop them with a spoon into a stew-pan in clarified butter; have a little white wine, butter and sugar for your sauce, put it into a china bason, lay your fritters round, grate a little sugar over them, and serve them up.

159. _To make_ WHITE PUDDINGS _in Skins_.

Take half a pound of rice, cree it in milk while it be soft, when it is creed put it into a cullinder to drain; take a penny loaf, cut off the out crust, then cut it in thin slices, scald it in a little milk, but do not make it over wet; take six eggs and beat them very well, a pound of currans well cleaned, a pound of beef-suet shred fine, two or three spoonfuls of rose-water, half a pound of powder sugar, a little salt, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a large nutmeg grated, and a small stick of cinnamon; beat them together, mix them very well, and put them into the skins; if you find it be too thick put to it a little cream; you may boil them near half an hour, it will make them keep the better.

160. _To make_ BLACK PUDDINGS.

Take two quarts of whole oatmeal, pick it and half boil it, give it room in your cloth, (you must do it the day before you use it) put it into the blood while it is warm, with a handful of salt, stir it very well, beat eight or nine eggs in about a pint of cream, and a quart of bread-crumbs, a handful or two of maslin meal dress'd through a hair-sieve, if you have it, if not put in wheat flour; to this quantity you may put an ounce of Jamaica pepper, and ounce of black pepper, a large nutmeg, and a little more salt, sweet-marjoram and thyme, if they be green shred them fine, if dry rub them to powder, mix them well together, and if it be too thick put to it a little milk; take four pounds of beef-suet, and four pounds of lard, skin and cut it it think pieces, put it into your blood by handfuls, as you fill your puddings; when they are filled and tied prick them with a pin, it will keep them from bursting in the boiling; (you must boil them twice) cover them close and it will make them black.

161. _An_ ORANGE PUDDING _another Way_.

Take two Seville oranges, the largest and cleanest you can get, grate off the outer skin with a clean grater; take eight eggs, (leave out two of the whites) half a pound of loaf sugar, beat it very fine, put it to your eggs, and beat them for an hour, put to them half a pound of clarified butter, and four ounces of almonds blanch'd, and heat them with a little rose-water; put in the juice of the oranges, but mind you don't put in the pippens, and mix together; bake it with a thin paste over the bottom of the dish. It must be baked in a slow oven.

162. _To make_ APPLE FRITTERS.

Take four eggs and beat them very well, put to them four spoonfuls of fine flour, a little milk, about a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little nutmeg and salt, so beat them very well together; you must not make it very thin, if you do it will not stick to the apple; take a middling apple and pare it, cut out the core, and cut the rest in round slices about the thickness of a shilling; (you may take out the core after you have cut it with your thimble) have ready a little lard in a stew-pan, or any other deep pan; then take your apple every slice single, and dip it into your bladder, let your lard be very hot, so drop them in; you must keep them turning whilst enough, and mind that they be not over brown; as you take them out lay them on a pewter dish before the fire whilst you have done; have a little white wine, butter and sugar for the sauce; grate over them a little loaf sugar, and serve them up.

163. _To make an_ HERB PUDDING.

Take a good quantity of spinage and parsley, a little sorrel and mild thyme, put to them a handful of great oatmeal creed, shred them together till they be very small, put to them a pound of currans, well washed and cleaned, four eggs well beaten in a jill of good cream; if you wou'd have it sweet, put in a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little nutmeg, a little salt, and a handful of grated bread; then meal your cloth and tie it close before you put it in to boil; it will take as much boiling as a piece of beef.

164. _To make a_ PUDDING _for a_ HARE.

Take the liver and chop it small with some thyme, parsley, suet, crumbs of bread mixt, with grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, an egg, a little fat bacon and lemon-peel; you must make the composition very stiff, lest it should dissolve, and you lose your pudding.

165. _To make a_ BREAD PUDDING.

Take three jills of milk, when boiled, take a penny loaf sliced thin, cut off the out crust, put on the boiling milk, let it stand close covered till it be cold, and beat it very well till all the lumps be broke; take five eggs beat very well, grate in a little nutmeg, shred some lemon-peel, and a quarter of a pound of butter or beef-suet, with as much sugar as will sweeten it; and currans as many as you please; let them be well cleaned; so put them into your dish, and bake or boil it.

166. _To make_ CLARE PANCAKES.

Take five or six eggs, and beat them very well with a little salt, put to them two or three spoonfuls of cream, a spoonful of fine flour, mix it with a little cream; take your clare and wash it very clean, wipe it with a cloth, put your eggs into a pan, just to cover your pan bottom, lay the clare in leaf by leaf, whilst you have covered your pan all over; take a spoon, and pour over every leaf till they are all covered; when it is done lay the brown side upwards, and serve it up.

167. _To make a_ LIVER PUDDING.

Take a pound of grated bread, a pound of currans, a pound and a half of marrow and suet together cut small, three quarters of a pound of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a pint of grated liver, and some salt, mix all together; take twelve eggs, (leave out half of the whites) beat them well, put to them a pint of cream, make the eggs and cream warm, then put it to the pudding, stuff and stir it well together, so fill them in skins; put to them a few blanch'd almonds shred fine, and a spoonful or two of rose-water, so keep them for use.

168. _To make_ OATMEAL FRITTERS.

Boil a quart of new milk, steep a pint of fine flour or oatmeal in it ten or twelve hours, then beat four eggs in a little milk, so much as will make like thick blatter, drop them in by spoonfuls into fresh butter, a spoonful of butter in a cake, and grate sugar over them; have sack, butter and sugar for sauce.

169. _To make_ APPLE DUMPLINGS.

Take half a dozen codlins, or any other good apples, pare and core them, make a little cold butter paste, and roll it up about the thickness of your finger, so lap around every apple, and tie them single in a fine cloth, boil them in a little salt and water, and let the water boil before you put them in; half an hour will boil them; you must have for sauce a little white wine and butter; grate some sugar round the dish, and serve them up.

170. _To make_ HERB DUMPLINGS.

Take a penny loaf, cut off the out crust, and the rest in slices, put to it as much hot milk as will just wet it, take the yolks and whites of six eggs, beat them with two spoonfuls of powder sugar, half a nutmeg, and a little salt, so put it to your bread; take half a pound of currans well cleaned, put them to your eggs, then take a handful of the mildest herbs you can get, gather them so equal that the taste of one be not above the other, wash and chop them very small, put as many of them in as will make a deep green, (don't put any parsley among them, nor any other strong herb) so mix them all together, and boil them in a cloth, make them about the bigness of middling apples; about half an hour will boil them; put them into your dish, and have a little candid orange, white wine, butter and sugar for sauce, so serve them up.

171. _To make_ MARROW TARTS.

To a quart of cream put the yolks of twelve eggs, half a pound of sugar, some beaten mace and cinnamon, a little salt and some sack, set it on the fire with half a pound of biskets, as much marrow, a little orange-peel and lemon-peel; stir it on the fire till it becomes thick, and when it is cold put it into a dish with puff-paste, then bake it gently in a slow oven.

172. _To make_ PLAIN FRUIT DUMPLINGS.

Take as much flour as you would have dumplings in quantity, put it to a spoonful of sugar, a little salt, a little nutmeg, a spoonful of light yeast, and half a pound of currans well washed and cleaned, so knead them the stiffness you do a common dumpling, you must have white wine, sugar and butter for sauce; you may boil them either in a cloth or without; so serve them up.

173. _To make_ OYSTER LOAVES.

Take half a dozen French loaves, rasp them and make a hole at the top, take out all the crumbs and fry them in butter till they be crisp; when your oysters are stewed, put them into your loaves, cover them up before the fire to keep hot whilst you want them; so serve them up.

They are proper either for a side-dish or mid-dish.

You may make cockle loaves or mushroom-loaves the same way.

174. _To make a_ GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.

Take a quart of green gooseberries, pick, coddle, bruise and rub them through a hair-sieve to take out the pulp; take six spoonfuls of the pulp, six eggs, three quarters of a pound of sugar, half a pound of clarified butter, a little lemon-peel shred fine, a handful of bread-crumbs or bisket, a spoonful of rose-water or orange-flower water; mix these well together, and bake it with paste round the dish; you may add sweetmeats if you please.

175. _To make an_ EEL PIE.

Case and clean the eels, season them with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, cut them in long pieces; you must make your pie with hot butter paste, let it be oval with a thin crust; lay in your eels length way, putting over them a little fresh butter; so bake them.

Eel pies are good, and eat very well with currans, but if you put in currans you must not use any black pepper, but a little Jamaica pepper.

176. _To make a_ TURBOT-HEAD PIE.

Take a middling turbot-head, pretty well cut off, wash it clean, take out the gills, season it pretty well with mace, pepper and salt, so put it into a deep dish with half a pound of butter, cover it with a light puff-paste, but lay none in the bottom; when it is baked take out the liquor and the butter that it was baked in, put it into a sauce-pan with a lump of fresh butter and flour to thicken it, with an anchovy and a glass of white wine, so pour it into your pie again over the fish; you may lie round half a dozen yolks of eggs at an equal distance; when you have cut off the lid, lie it in sippets round your disk, and serve it up.

177. _To make a Caudle for a sweet_ VEAL PIE.

Take about a jill of white wine and verjuice mixed, make it very hot, beat the yolk of an egg very well, and then mix them together as you would do mull'd ale; you must sweeten it very well, because there is no sugar in the pie.

This caudle will do for any other sort of pie that is sweet.

178. _To make_ SWEET-MEAT TARTS.

Make a little shell-paste, roll it, and line your tins, prick them in the inside, and so bake them; when you serve 'em up put in any sort of sweet-meats, what you please.

You may have a different sort every day, do but keep your shells bak'd by you.

179. _To make_ ORANGE TARTS.

Take two or three Seville oranges and boil them, shift them in the boiling to take out the bitter, cut them in two, take out the pippens, and cut them in slices; they must be baked in crisp paste; when you fill the petty-pans, lay in a layer of oranges and a layer of sugar, (a pound will sweeten a dozen of small tins, if you do not put in too much orange) bake them in a slow oven, and ice them over.

180. _To make a_ TANSEY _another Way_.

Take a pint of cream, some biskets without seeds, two or three spoonfuls of fine flour, nine eggs, leaving out two of the whites, some nutmeg, and orange-flower water, a little juice of tansey and spinage, put it into a pan till it be pretty thick, then fry or bake it, if fried take care that you do not let it be over-brown. Garnish with orange and sugar, so serve it up.

181. _A good_ PASTE _for_ TARTS.

Take a pint of flour, and rub a quarter of a pound of butter into it, beat two eggs with a spoonful of double-refin'd sugar, and two or three spoonfuls of cream to make it into paste; work it as little as you can, roll it out thin; butter your tins, dust on some flour, then lay in your paste, and do not fill them too full.

182. _To make_ TRANSPARENT TARTS.

Take a pound of flour well dried, beat one egg till it be very thin, then melt almost three quarters of a pound of butter without salt, and let it be cold enough to mix with an egg, then put it into the flour and make your paste, roll it very thin, when you are setting them into the oven wet them over with a little fair water, and grate a little sugar; if you bake them rightly they will be very nice.

183. _To make a_ SHELL PASTE.

Take half a pound of fine flour, and a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of two eggs and one white, two ounces of sugar finely sifted, mix all these together with a little water, and roll it very thin whilst you can see through it; when you lid your tarts prick them to keep them from blistering; make sure to roll them even, and when you bake them ice them.

184. _To make_ PASTE _for_ TARTS.

Take the yolks of five or six eggs, just as you would have paste in quantity; to the yolks of eggs put a pound of butter, work the butter with your hands whilst it take up all the eggs, then take some London flour and work it with your butter whilst it comes to a paste, put in about two spoonfuls of loaf sugar beat and sifted, and about half a jill of water; when you have wrought it well together it is fit for use.

This is a paste that seldom runs if it be even roll'd; roll it thin but let your lids be thiner than your bottoms; when you have made your tarts, prick them over with a pin to keep it from blistering; when you are going to put them into the oven, wet them over with a feather dipt in fair water, and grate over them a little double-refined loaf sugar, it will ice them; but don't let them be bak'd in a hot oven.

185. _A short_ PASTE _for_ TARTS.

Take a pound of wheat-flour, and rub it very small, three quarters of a pound of butter, rub it as small as the flour, put to it three spoonfuls of loaf sugar beat and sifted; take the yolks of four eggs, and beat them very well; put to them a spoonful or two of rose-water, and work them into a paste, then roll them thin, and ice them as you did the other if you please, and bake 'em in a slow oven.

186. _To make a_ LIGHT PASTE _for a_ VENISON PASTY, _or other_ PIE.

Take a quarter of a peck of fine flour, or as much as you think you have occasion for, and to every quartern of flour put a pound and a quarter of butter, break the third part of your butter into the flour; then take the whites of three or four eggs, beat them very well to a froth, and put to them as much water as will knead the meal; do not knead it over stiff, so then roll it in the rest of your butter; you must roll it five or six times over at least, and strinkle a little flour over your butter every time you roll it up, lap it up the cross way, and it will be fit for use.

187. _To make a Paste for a_ STANDING PIE.

Take a quartern of flour or more if you have occasion, and to every quartern of flour put a pound of butter, and a little salt, knead it with boiling water, then work it very well, and let it lie whilst it is cold.

This paste is good enough for a goose pie, or any other standing-pie.

188. _A light Paste for a_ DISH PIE.

Take a quartern of flour, and break into it a pound of butter in large pieces, knead it very stiff, handle it as lightly as you can, and roll it once or twice, then it is fit for use.

189. _To make_ CHEESE CAKES.

Take a gallon of new milk, make of it a tender curd, wring the whey from it, put it into a bason, and break three quarters of a pound of butter into the curd, then with a clean hand work the butter and curd together till all the butter be melted, and rub it in a hair-sieve with the back of spoon till all be through; then take six eggs, beat them with a few spoonfuls of rose-water or sack, put it into your curd with half a pound of fine sugar and a nutmeg grated; mix them all together with a little salt, some currans and almonds; then make up your paste of fine flour, with cold butter and a little sugar; roll your paste very thin, fill your tins with the curd, and set them in an oven, when they are almost enough take them out, then take a quarter of a pound of butter, with a little rose-water, and part of a half pound of sugar, let it stand on the coals till the butter be melted, then pour into each cake some of it, set them in the oven again till they be brown, so keep them for use.

190. _To make_ GOOFER WAFERS.

Take a pound of fine flour and six eggs, beat them very well, put to them about a jill of milk, mix it well with the flour, put in half a pound of clarified butter, half a pound of powder sugar, half of a nutmeg, and a little salt; you may add to it two or three spoonfuls of cream; then take your goofer-irons and put them into the fire to heat, when they are hot rub them over the first time with a little butter in a cloth, put your batter into one side of your goofer-irons, put them into the fire, and keep turning the irons every now and then; (if your irons be too hot they burn soon) make them a day or two before you use them, only set them down before the fire on a pewter dish before you serve them up; have a little white wine and butter for your sauce, grating some sugar over them.

191. _To make common_ CURD CHEESE CAKES.

Take a pennyworth of curds, mix them with a little cream, beat four eggs, put to them six ounces of clarified butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a pound of currans well wash'd, and a little lemon-peel shred, a little nutmeg, a spoonful of rose-water or brandy, whether you please, and a little salt, mix altogether, and bake them in small petty pans.

192. CHEESE CAKES _without_ CURRANS.

Take five quarts of new milk, run it to a tender curd, then hang it in a cloth to drain, rub into them a pound of butter that is well washed in rose-water, put to it the yolks of seven or eight eggs, and two of the whites; season it with cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar.

193. _To make a_ CURD PUDDING.

Take three quarts of new milk, put to it a little erning, as much as will break it when it is scumm'd break it down with your hand, and when it is drained grind it with a mustard ball in a bowl, or beat it in a marble-mortar; then take half a pound of butter and six eggs, leaving out three of the whites; beat the eggs well, and put them into the curds and butter, grate in half a nutmeg, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and salt, sweeten it to your taste, beat them all together, and bake them in little petty-pans with fast bottoms; a quarter of an hour will bake them; you must butter the tins very well before you put them in; when you dish them up you must lay them the wrong side upwards on the dish, and stick them with either blanch'd almonds, candid orange, or citron cut in long bits, and grate a little loaf sugar over them.

194. _To make a_ SLIPCOAT CHEESE.

Take five quarts of new-milk, a quart of cream, and a quart of water, boil your water, then put your cream to it; when your milk is new-milk warm put in your erning, take your curd into the strainer, break it as little as you can, and let it drain, then put it into your vat, press it by degrees, and lay it in grass.

195. _To make_ CREAM CHEESE.

Take three quarts of new-milk, one quart of cream, and a spoonful of erning, put them together, let it stand till it come to the hardness of a strong jelly, then put it into the mould, shifting it often into dry cloths, lay the weight of three pounds upon it, and about two hours after you may lay six or seven pounds upon it; turn it often into dry cloths till night, then take the weight off, and let it lie in the mould without weight and cloth till morning, and when it is so dry that it doth not wet a cloth, keep it in greens till fit for use; if you please you may put a little salt into it.

196. _To make_ PIKE _eat like_ STURGEON.

Take the thick part of a large pike and scale it, set on two quarts of water to boil it in, put in a jill of vinegar, a large handful of salt, and when it boils put in your pike, but first bind it about with coarse inkle; when it is boiled you must not take off the inkle or baising, but let it be on all the time it is in eating; it must be kept in the same pickle it was boiled in, and if you think it be not strong enough you must add a little more salt and vinegar, so when it is cold put it upon your pike, and keep it for use; before you boil the pike take out the bone.

You may do scate the same way, and in my opinion it eats more like sturgeon.

197. _To Collar_ EELS.

Take the largest eels you can get, skin and split them down the belly, take out the bones, season them with a little mace, nutmeg and salt; begin at the tail and roll them up very tight, so bind them up in a little coarse inkle, boil it in salt and water, a few bay leaves, a little whole pepper, and a little alegar or vinegar; it will take an hour boiling, according as your roll is in bigness; when it is boiled you must tie it and hang it up whilst it be cold, then put it into the liquor that it was boiled in, and keep it for use.

If your eels be small you may robe two or three of them together.

198. _To Pot_ SMELTS.

Take the freshest and largest smelts you can get, wipe them very well with a clean cloth, take out the guts with a skewer, (but you must not take out the milt and roan) season them with a little mace, nutmeg and salt, so lie them in a flat pot; if you have two score you must lay over them five ounces of butter; lie over them a paper, and set them in a slow oven; if it be over hot it will burn them, and make them look black; an hour will bake them; when they are baked you must take them out and lay them on a dish to drain, and when they are drained you must put them in long pots about the length of your smelts; when you lay them in you must put betwixt every layer the same seasoning as you did before, to make them keep; when they are cold cover them over with clarified butter, so keep them for use.

199. _To Pickle_ SMELTS.

Take the best and largest smelts you can get; gut, wash and wipe them, lie them in a flat pot, cover them with a little white wine vinegar, two or three blades of mace and a little pepper and salt; bake them in a slow oven, and keep them for use.

200. _To stew a_ PIKE.

Take a large pike, scale and clean it, season it in the belly with a little mace and salt; skewer it round, put it into a deep stew-pan, with a pint of small gravy and a pint of claret, two or thee blades of mace, set it over a stove with a slow fire, and cover it up close; when it is enough take part of the liquor, put to it two anchovies, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and thicken the sauce with flour and butter; before you lie the pike on the dish turn it with the back upwards, take off the skin, and serve it up. Garnish your dish with lemon and pickle.

201. SAUCE _for a_ PIKE.

Take a little of the liquor that comes from the pike when you take it out of the oven, put to it two or three anchovies, a little lemon-peel shred, a spoonful or two of white wine, or a little juice of lemon, which you please, put to it some butter and flour, make your sauce about the thickness of cream, put it into a bason or silver-boat, and set in your dish with your pike, you may lay round your pike any sort of fried fish, or broiled, if you have it; you may have the same sauce for a broiled pike, only add a little good gravy, a few shred capers, a little parsley, and a spoonful or two of oyster and cockle pickle if you have it.

202. _How to roast a_ PIKE _with a Pudding in the Belly_.

Take a large pike, scale and clean it, draw it at the gills.--_To make a pudding for the Pike_. Take a large handful of bread-crumbs, as much beef-suet shred fine, two eggs, a little pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, a little parsley, sweet-marjoram and lemon-peel shred fine; so mix altogether, put it into the belly of your pike, skewer it round and lie it in an earthen dish with a lump of butter over it, a little salt and flour, so set it in the oven; an hour will roast it.

203. _To dress a_ COD'S HEAD.

Take a cod's head, wash and clean it, take out the gills, cut it open, and make it to lie flat; (if you have no conveniency of boiling it you may do it in an oven, and it will be as well or better) put it into a copper-dish or earthen one, lie upon it a littler butter, salt, and flour, and when it is enough take off the skin.

SAUCE _for the_ COD'S HEAD.

Take a little white gravy, about a pint of oysters or cockles, a little shred lemon-peel, two or three spoonfuls of white wine, and about half a pound of butter thicken'd with flour, and put it into your boat or bason.

_Another_ SAUCE _for a_ COD'S HEAD.

Take a pint of good gravy, a lobster or crab, which you can get, dress and put it into your gravy with a little butter, juice of lemon, shred lemon-peel, and a few shrimps if you have them; thicken it with a little flour, and put it into your bason, set the oysters on one side of the dish and this on the other; lay round the head boiled whitings, or any fried fish; pour over the head a little melted butter. Garnish your dish with horse-radish, slices of lemon and pickles.

204. _To stew_ CARP _or_ TENCH.

Take your carp or tench and wash them, scale the carp but not the tench, when you have cleaned them wipe them with a cloth, and fry them in a frying pan with a little butter to harden the skin; before you put them into the stew-pan, put to them a little good gravy, the quantity will be according to the largeness of your fish, with a jill of claret, three or four anchovies at least, a little shred lemon-peel, a blade or two of mace, let all stew together, till your carp be enough, over a slow fire; when it is enough take part of the liquor, put to it half a pound of butter, and thicken it with a little flour; so serve them up. Garnish your dish with crisp parsley, slices of lemon and pickles.

If you have not the convenience of stewing them, you may broil them before a fire, only adding the same sauce.

205. _How to make_ SAUCE _for a boiled_ SALMON _or_ TURBOT.

Take a little mild white gravy, two or three anchovies, a spoonful of oyster or cockle pickle, a little shred lemon-peel, half a pound of butter, a little parsley and fennel shred small, and a little juice of lemon, but not too much, for fear it should take off the sweetness.

206. _To make_ SAUCE _for_ HADDOCK _or_ COD, _either broiled or boiled_.

Take a little gravy, a few cockles, oysters or mushrooms, put to them a little of the gravy that comes from the fish, either broiled or boiled, it will do very well if you have no other gravy, a little catchup and a lump of butter; if you have neither oysters nor cockles you may put in an anchovy or two, and thicken with flour; you may put in a few shred capers, or a little mango, if you have it.

207. _To stew_ EELS.

Take your eels, case, clean and skewer them round, put them into a stew-pan with a little good gravy, a little claret to redden the gravy, a blade or two of mace, an anchovy, and a little lemon-peel; when they are enough thicken them with a little flour and butter. Garnish your dish with parsley.

208. _To pitch-cock_ EELS.

Take your eels, case and clean them, season them with nutmeg, pepper and salt, skewer them round, broil them before the fire, and baste them with a little butter; when they are almost enough strinkle them over with a little shred parsley, and make your sauce of a little gravy, butter, anchovy, and a little oyster pickle if you have it; don't pour the sauce over your eels, put it into a china bason, and set it in the middle of your dish.

Garnish with crisp parsley, and serve them up.

209. _To boil_ HERRINGS.

Take your herring, scale and wash them, take out the milt and roan, skewer them round, and tie them with a string or else they will come loose in the boiling and be spoil'd; set on a pretty broad stew-pan, with as much water as will cover them, put to it a little salt, lie in you herrings with the backs downwards boil with them the milt and roans to lie round them; they will boil in half a quarter of an hour over a slow fire; when they are boiled take them up with an egg slice, so turn them over and set them to drain. Make your sauce of a little gravy and butter, an anchovy and a little boiled parsley shred; put it into the bason, set it in the middle of the dish, lie the herrings round with their tails towards the bason, and lie the milts and roans between every herring. Garnish with crisp parsley and lemon; so serve them up.

210. _To fry_ HERRINGS.

Scale and wash your herrings clean, strew over them a little flour and salt; let your butter be very hot before you put your herrings into the pan, then shake them to keep them stirring, and fry them over a brisk fire; when they are fried cut off the heads and bruise them, put to them a jill of ale, (but the ale must not be bitter) add a little pepper and salt, a small onion or shalot, if you have them, and boil them altogether; when they are boiled, strain them, and put them into your sauce-pan again, thicken them with a little flour and butter, put it into a bason, and set it in the middle of your dish; fry the milts and roans together, and lay round your herrings. Garnish your dish with crisp parsley, and serve it up.

211. _To pickle_ HERRINGS.

Scale and clean your herrings, take out the milts and roans, and skewer them round, season them with a little pepper and salt, put them in a deep pot, cover them with alegar, put to them a little whole Jamaica pepper, and two or three bay leaves; bake them and keep them for use.

212. _To stew_ OYSTERS.

Take a score or two of oysters, according as you have occasion, put them into a small stew-pan, with a few bread-crumbs, a little water, shred mace and pepper, a lump of butter, and a spoonful of vinegar, (not to make it four) boil them altogether but not over much, if you do it makes them hard. Garnish with bread fippets, and serve them up.

213. _To fry_ OYSTERS.

Take a score or two of the largest oysters you can get, and the yolks of four or five eggs, beat them very well, put to them a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, a spoonful of fine flour, and a little raw parsley shred, so dip in your oysters, and fry them in butter a light brown.

They are very proper to lie about either stew'd oysters, or any other fish, or made dishes.

214. OYSTERS _in_ SCALLOP SHELLS.

Take half a dozen small scallop shells, lay in the bottom of every shell a lump of butter, a few bread crumbs, and then your oysters; laying over them again a few more bread crumbs, a little butter, and a little beat pepper, so set them to crisp, either in the oven or before the fire, and serve them up.

They are proper for either a side-dish or middle-dish.

215 _To keep_ HERRINGS _all the Year_.

Take fresh herrings, cut off their heads, open and wash them very clean, season them with salt, black pepper, and Jamaica pepper, put them into a pot, cover them with white wine vinegar and water, of each an equal quantity, and set them in a slow oven to bake; tie the pot up close and they will keep a year in the pickle.

216. _To make artificial_ Sturgeon _another Way_.

Take out the bones of a turbot or britt, lay it in salt twenty four hours, boil it with good store of salt; make your pickle of white wine vinegar and three quarts of water, boil them, and put in a little vinegar in the boiling; don't boil it over much, if you do it will make it soft; when 'tis enough take it out till it be cold, put the same pickle to it, and keep it for use.

217. _To stew_ MUSHROOMS.

Take mushrooms, and clean them, the buttons you may wash, but the flaps you must pill both inside and out; when you have cleaned them, pick out the little ones for pickling, and cut the rest in pieces for stewing; wash them and put them into a little water, give them a boil and it will take off the faintness, so drain from them all the water, then put them into a pan with a lump of butter, a little shred mace, pepper and salt to your taste (putting them to a little water) hang them over a slow fire for half an hour, when they are enough thicken them with a little flour; serve them up with sippets.

218. _To make_ ALMOND PUFFS.

Take a pound of almonds blanch'd, and beat them with orange-flower water, then take a pound of sugar, and boil them almost to a candy height, put in your almonds and stir them on the fire, keep them stirring till they be stiff, then take them off the fire and stir them till they be cold; beat them a quarter of an hour in a mortar, putting to them a pound of sugar sifted, and a little lemon-peel grated, make it into a paste with the whites of three eggs, and beat it into a froth more or less as you think proper; bake them in an oven almost cold, and keep them for use.

219. _To pot_ MUSHROOMS.

Take the largest mushrooms, scrape and clean them, put them into your pan with a lump of butter, and a little salt, let then stew over a slow fire whilst they are enough, put to them a little mace and whole pepper, then dry them with a cloth, and put them down into a pot as close as you can, and as you lie them down strinkle in a little salt and mace, when they are cold cover them over with butter; when you use them toss them up with gravy, a few bread-crumbs and butter; do not make your pot over large, but rather put them into two pots; they will keep the better if you take the gravy from them when they are stewed.

They are good for fish-sauce, or any other whilst they are fresh.

220. _To fry_ TROUT, _or any other Sort of Fish_.

Take two or three eggs, more or less according as you have fish to fry, take the fish and cut it in thin slices, lie it upon a board, rub the eggs over it with a feather, and strow on a little flour and salt, fry it in fine drippings or butter, let the drippings be very hot before you put in the fish, but do not let it burn, if you do it will make the fish black; when the fish is in the pan, you may do the other side with the egg, and as you fry it lay it to drain before the fire till all be fried, then it is ready for use.

221. _To make_ SAUCE _for_ SALMON _or_ TURBOT.

Boil your turbot or salmon, and set it to drain; take the gravy that drains from the salmon or turbot, an anchovy or two, a little lemon-peel shred, a spoonful of catchup, and a little butter, thicken it with flour the thickness of cream, put to it a little shred parsley and fennel; but do not put in your parsley and fennel till you be just going to send it up, for it will take off the green.

The gravy of all sorts of fish is a great addition to your sauce, if the fish be sweet.

222. _To dress_ COD'S ZOONS.

Lie them in water all night, and then boil them, if they be salt shift them once in the boiling, when they are tender cut them in long pieces, dress them up with eggs as you do salt fish, take one or two of them and cut into square pieces, dip them in egg and fry them to lay round your dish.

It is proper to lie about any other dish.

223. _To make_ SOLOMON GUNDY _to eat in Lent_

Take five or six white herrings, lay them in water all night, boil them as soft as you would do for eating, and shift them in the boiling to take out the saltness; when they are boiled take the fish from the bone, and mind you don't break the bone in pieces, leaving on the head and tail; take the white part of the herrings, a quarter of a pound of anchovies, a large apple, a little onion shred fine, or shalot, and a little lemon-peel, shred them all together, and lie them over the bones on both sides, in the shape of a herring; then take off the peel of a lemon very very thin, and cut it in long bits, just as it will reach over the herrings; you must lie this peel over every herring pretty thick. Garnish your dish with a few pickled oysters, capers, and mushrooms, if you have any; so serve them up.

224. SOLOMAN GUNDY _another Way_.

Take the white part of a turkey, or other fowl, if you have neither, take a little white veal and mince it pretty small; take a little hang beef or tongues, scrape them very fine, a few shred capers, and the yolks of four or five eggs shred small; take a delf dish and lie a delf plate in the dish with the wrong side up, so lie on your meat and other ingredients, all single in quarters, one to answer another; set in the middle a large lemon or mango, so lie round your dish anchovies in lumps, picked oysters or cockles, and a few pickled mushrooms, slices of lemon and capers; so serve it up.

This is proper for a side-dish either at noon or night.

225. _To make_ LEMON CHEESE CAKES.