Chapter V (12)

It is very difficult to give exact rules for bidding, the state of the score having much to do with it; but as a general rule it is much better to bid on _=catching cards=_ than on the points themselves. For instance: A K Q of trumps should certainly be good for eight points; some players habitually bid twelve on them, reckoning to catch both Pedroes and one of the minor points. This is risky unless there are one or two small trumps with the A K Q. On the other hand, two Pedroes, with Jack and Low, are not worth bidding more than five on; because it is very unlikely that you will save more than one of the Pedroes, if that. The very fact that you bid five diminishes your chances, for you betray the fact that your only hope is to save a well-guarded Pedro. Long experience with players who bid their hands correctly will give a player a very good idea of what the bidder has in his hand. To the partner this is a great point, for it enables him to judge when to give up points himself, and when to play for his partner to throw them to him.

The number of cards asked for by each player should be very carefully noted; for it will frequently happen that the entire trump suit can be located by this means. It is useless to keep anything but trumps, for tricks, as such, have no value, and every card you draw increases your chances of getting another trump.

The most important point in the game is to _=cinch=_ every trick in which an adversary plays after you; that is, to play some trump higher than a Pedro, if the Pedroes have not been played, and you do not hold them yourself. Examples of cinching will be found in the Illustrative Hands. If your partner leads a certain winning trump, such as the ace, or the King if the ace is gone, give him the best counting card you have; but if you have two, one of them being Low, give up the lower card first; you may catch something with the Jack or Ten. If your partner leads any trump higher than the Five, play your smallest trump unless second hand covers, in which case you must cinch the trick, to prevent the fourth hand from giving up a Pedro on his partner’s trick.

If you are forced to win your partner’s first lead of trumps, return the best trump you have, unless it is the Jack or Ten, in which case you must be guided by the number of points you are playing for, and your chances of making them if you lose the card you lead.

If your partner begins by leading a plain suit, you must cinch the trick if you can; if second hand follows suit, any trump better than the Five will do. If second hand puts on a trump, you must cinch higher.

If the player on your right renounces to trumps, get into the lead if possible, and play your best cards in plain suits. This may give your partner a tenace position over the player on your left.

If partner begins with a high card in trumps, not the ace, credit him with the sequence below it, and put in your Pedro at the first opportunity. For instance: Partner leads King, won by the ace second hand. Whatever this player leads, put in your Pedro, if you have one, your partner must have Queen of trumps.

Playing to the score is very important. Do not attempt to get more than the number bid until that is assured. On the other hand, if it is certain that the adversary cannot make good his bid, do not let him get as close to it as possible, but play boldly to win all you can, for every point he makes is simply lost.

Here are a few example hands, which will give a very good idea of some of the fine points in the game.

_=No. 1.=_ | | _=No. 2.=_
A bids 8 on hearts. | T | A bids 8 on hearts.
The draw: A 2; Y 2; | R | The draw: A 2; Y 3;
B 4; Z 5. | I | B 4; Z 4.
---------------------------+ C +---------------------------
A Y B Z | K | A Y B Z
------+------+------+------+---+------+-------+-------+-----
♣Q | ♣3 | _♡8_ | ♣5 | 1 | ♡3 | ♡7 | _♡10_ | ♡8
♡2 | ♡6 | _♡Q_ | ♡4 | 2 | _♡Q_ | ♡2 | ♡4 | ♡9
♡10 | _♡J_ | ♣J | ♡9 | 3 | ♡6 | _♡J_ | A♢ | ♣4
_♡K_ | 5♢ | 2♠ | 4♠ | 4 | ♣2 | _7♠_ | K♢ | 6♠
_♡A_ | ♡7 | 6♠ | ♣9 | 5 | ♡K | _♡A_ | ♣3 | ♣6
♡3 | _♡5_ | 10♠ | K♢ | 6 | _♡5_ | 5♢ | 2♢ | ♣10
------+------+------+------+---+------+-------+-------+-----

_=No. 1.=_ Y’s draw shows that he holds at least four trumps, so A must trust his partner to cinch the first trick and return the trump. [See our suggestions for good play.] At trick 3, Z cinches, to make A play a high trump. It is evident to A that neither B nor Z holds either Jack or Seven of trumps; so both those cards must be with Y. As B has no more trumps the adversaries must have both Pedroes, and Y must have one, as he holds four trumps. If they are divided, A can catch both by cinching this trick with the King and leading the Ace; but if Y has both Pedroes, such a course would lose Jack, Game, and one Pedro. If A cinches this trick with the Ten, allowing Y to win with the Jack, A must catch both Pedroes, no matter how they lie, provided Y leads the trump Seven, for A will refuse to win it.

Y sees his danger, and by leading a Pedro to A, forces him either to pass it, or to get into the lead and free the other Pedro.

A-B score nothing: Y-Z score 7 for Jack, Game, Pedro; and 8 in addition, for points bid but not made by A-B; 15 altogether.

_=No. 2.=_ At trick 2, Y sees that he cannot save Low, and the lead would be a great disadvantage, because either A has all the remaining trumps, or Y’s partner has an unguarded Pedro. At trick 3, A knows that if Y has Ace, and Z Pedro, A can still make his bid by catching Jack, and saving his own Pedro. If the Pedro was not with Z the small trump is still the best lead, for it puts the lead on A’s left. B gets rid of cards which might get him into the lead to his partner’s disadvantage. Unfortunately, Z is unable to take the lead away from Y at trick 4. As Y is still in the lead, there is no necessity for A to save his Pedro, for Y cannot possibly catch it, and A must catch Y’s, no matter how Y plays.

A-B score 10 points; Low, Game, and both Pedroes, 12, from which they deduct the 2 points made by Y-Z.

_=No. 3.=_ | | _=No. 4.=_
A bids 12 on hearts. | T | A bids 8 on hearts.
The draw: A 3; Y 5; | R | The draw: A 2; Y 4
B 3; Z 2. | I | B 4; Z 4.
------+------+------+------+ C +-------+------+------+-----
A Y B Z | K | A Y B Z
------+------+------+------+---+-------+------+------+-----
_♡A_ | ♡3 | 5♢ | ♡6 | 1 | _♡A_ | ♡6 | ♡J | ♡3
_♡K_ | ♡4 | ♡8 | ♡10 | 2 | ♡8 | ♡7 | ♡4 | _♡9_
♡2 | ♡7 | ♡9 | _♡J_ | 3 | ♡Q | ♡2 | 4♢ | _♡K_
♣Q | _♣K_ | ♣3 | ♣J | 4 | Q♠ | ♣2 | _♣A_ | ♣9
8♠ | _♣A_ | ♣10 | 2♢ | 5 | 5♢ | _♡5_ | ♣J | ♣7
_♡Q_ | Q♠ | K♢ | ♡5 | 6 | _♡10_ | 4♠ | J♢ | 2♢

_=No. 3.=_ At the second trick, A knows that his partner still holds another trump, because he drew only three cards. This trump must be the 9. Z holds two more trumps, and they must be the Jack and Right Pedro, because Z would not throw away Game if he had anything smaller. The 7 must be with Y, and if A now leads trump Queen, he will leave the Pedro good over his Deuce, leaving him only 8 points, whereas he has bid 12. If A leads the Deuce, his partner’s nine will cinch the trick, and Z can make only the Jack.

A-B score 10. The 12 actually taken make good the bid; but the 2 points won by the adversaries must be deducted, leaving 10 to be scored by A-B.

_=No. 4.=_ At the third trick, a hasty or careless player would have been only too glad of the opportunity to get in his Pedro. But Y reasons that there are only two trumps unaccounted for, the Ten and Left Pedro. If B has one, it must fall to this trick. He cannot have both, for A drew only two cards. If A has both, Y must catch his Pedro, no matter how A plays; and as long as Y does not get into the lead himself, he cannot lose his own Pedro. At trick 5, A naturally places the Pedro with Z, as Y did not save it on the King, and it is perfectly natural for A to trump with his Pedro, intending to lead the Ten to catch Z’s.

A-B score nothing, not having made good their bid. Y-Z score Right and Left Pedro, and Low, 11 points; adding the 8 points bid but not made by A-B, 19 altogether.

CINCH LAWS.

_=Formation of Table.=_ A cinch table is complete with six players. If more than four assemble, they cut for preference, the four highest playing the first game. Partners and deal are then cut for, the two lowest pairing against the two highest. Partners sit opposite each other. The highest deals, and has the choice of seats and cards. The Ace is high, both in cutting and in play. A player exposing more than one card must cut again.

_=Ties.=_ If the first cut does not decide, the players cutting equal cards cut again; but the new cut decides nothing but the tie.

_=Cutting Out.=_ At the end of the game, the players cut to decide which shall give way to those awaiting their turn to play, the lowest cuts going out. After the second game, those who have played the greatest number of consecutive games give way, ties being decided by cutting.

_=Dealing.=_ Every player has the right to shuffle the cards, the dealer last. The dealer must present the pack to the pone to be cut. At least four cards must be left in each packet. If a card is exposed in cutting, the pack must be reshuffled, and cut again. If the dealer reshuffles the pack after it has been properly cut, he loses his deal.

Beginning on his left, the dealer must give to each player in rotation three cards at a time for three rounds. No trump is turned. The deal passes to the left.

There must be a new deal by the same dealer if any card is found faced in the pack; or if the pack is proved incorrect or imperfect; but any previous cutting or scores made with the imperfect pack stand good.

The adversaries may demand a new deal if any card is exposed during the deal, provided they have not touched a card. If an adversary exposes a card, the dealer may elect to deal again. If a new deal is not demanded, cards exposed in dealing cannot be called.

The adversaries may stop a player dealing out of turn, or with the wrong pack, provided they do so before the last three cards are dealt, alter which the deal stands good.

_=Misdealing.=_ A misdeal loses the deal. It is a misdeal: If the cards have not been properly cut, if the dealer does not give the same number of cards to each player on the same round; if he gives too many or too few cards to any player; if he counts the cards on the table, or those remaining in the pack; or if he deals a card incorrectly, and fails to correct the error before dealing another. If the dealer is interrupted in any way by an adversary, he does not lose his deal.

_=Bidding.=_ After receiving his nine cards, each player in turn, beginning on the dealer’s left, announces the number of points he will undertake to win if he is allowed to name the trump suit. No player is allowed to bid more than fourteen. If he will not bid, he must say: “I pass.” A bid having been regularly made, any following player must bid higher or pass. There are no second bids. A bid once made can neither be amended nor withdrawn.

_=Irregular Bids.=_ If any player bids before the eldest hand has bid or passed, both the player in error and his partner lose their right to bid; but the side not in error must bid to decide which of them shall name the trump. If the eldest hand has decided, and the pone bids without waiting for the dealer’s partner, the pone loses his bid, and the dealer may bid before his partner. If the dealer bids without waiting for his partner, both lose their bids; but the pone may overbid the eldest hand.

If the dealer’s partner has bid, and the dealer bids without waiting for the pone, the dealer loses his bid.

If a player whose partner has not yet bid names the trump suit, his partner loses his bid.

If a player bids with more than nine cards in his hand, his bid is lost, and the adversaries must draw the superfluous cards from his hand, face down, placing them about the middle of the undealt portion of the pack.

If no bid is made, the dealer may name any trump he pleases, without bidding.

If any player exposes any of his cards before the trump suit is named, the adversaries may elect to have a new deal by the same dealer.

_=Discarding.=_ The trump named, each player must put out at least three of his cards, and may discard as many more as he pleases. All such discards must be placed on the table face up. Should a player discard a trump, his partner may call his attention to it, and it may be taken back, provided the player has not been helped to cards, or has not lifted the cards drawn.

_=Drawing.=_ The players having discarded, the dealer, beginning on his left, must give to each in turn from the top of the pack, face down, as many cards as may be necessary to restore the number in each hand to six.

_=Robbing the Deck.=_ When it comes to the dealer’s turn to draw cards, instead of taking them from the top of the pack, face down, he may search the remainder of the pack, and take from it any cards he pleases to restore the number in his hand to six. Should he find in his own hand and in the remainder of the pack, more than six trumps, he must discard those he does not want, face upward on the table.

_=Irregular Drawing.=_ Should a player ask for too many or too few cards, and not discover his error until the next player has been helped, if he has too few he may make his hand good from the discards, but must not take a trump therefrom. If he has too many, the adversaries must be allowed to draw the superfluous ones at random, face down, placing them on the top of the pack.

_=Playing.=_ The maker of the trump must lead for the first trick, any card he pleases. If a trump is led, all must follow suit if able. If a plain suit is led, a player may trump, even when holding a card of the suit led; but if he does not trump he must follow suit if he can, or he is liable to the penalty for a revoke.

The last trick turned and quitted may be seen, but no other.

_=Irregularities in the Hands.=_ If any player is found to have an incorrect number of cards, it is a misdeal if no bid has been made. If a bid has been made, the deal stands good if three players have their right number of cards. If the first trick has been played to by a person holding too many cards, neither he nor his partner can score anything that hand; but they may play the hand out to save what points they can. If a player has too few cards, there is no penalty, but he should draw from the discard to make up the deficiency, plain-suit cards only being available.

_=Exposed Cards.=_ The following are exposed cards, which must be left face up on the table, and are liable to be called by either adversary: 1. Every card faced upon the table otherwise than in the regular course of play. 2. Two or more cards played to a trick; the adversaries may elect which shall be played. 3. Any card named by the player holding it.

The adversary on the right of an exposed card must call it before he plays himself. If it will be the turn of the player holding the exposed card to lead for the next trick, the card, if wanted, must be called before the current trick is turned and quitted. Should a player having the lead, and an exposed card in front of him, play before the previous trick is turned and quitted, the card so led may also be claimed as exposed.

If a trump is exposed after the trump suit has been named, the adversaries may prevent the playing of such a card; but the holder of it is not liable to any penalty for a revoke under such circumstances.

_=Leading Out of Turn.=_ If a player leads when it was his partner’s turn, the partner may be called upon by his right-hand adversary to lead or not to lead a trump; but a specified plain suit cannot be called. If it was the turn of neither of the side in error to lead, the card played in error is simply exposed. If all have played to the false lead, the error cannot be rectified. If all have not followed, the cards played to the false lead may be taken back, and are not liable to be called.

_=Playing Out of Turn.=_ If the third hand plays before the second, the fourth may play before the second also; either of his own volition, or by the direction of the second hand, who may say: “Play, partner.” If the fourth hand plays before the second, the third hand not having played, the trick may be claimed by the adversaries, no matter who actually wins it; but the actual winner of it must lead for the next trick.

If any player abandons his hand, the cards in it may be claimed as exposed, and called by the adversaries.

_=The Revoke.=_ A revoke is a renounce in error, not corrected in time, or non-compliance with a performable penalty. It is a revoke if a player has one of the suit led, and neither follows suit nor trumps.

A person prohibited from playing an exposed trump is not liable to any penalty if it causes him to revoke.

A revoke is established when the trick in which it occurs has been turned and quitted; or when either the revoking player or his partner, whether in his right turn or otherwise, has led or played to the following trick.

If a revoke is claimed and proved, the revoking side cannot score any points that deal; but they may play the hand out to prevent the adversaries from making points.

If an adversary of the bidder revokes, the bidder’s side scores whatever points it makes that deal, regardless of the number bid.

A player may ask his partner whether or not he has a card of the suit in which he renounces and does not trump, and the player may correct his error if the question is asked before the trick is turned and quitted. But if he answers in the negative, there is no remedy.

_=Drawing Cards.=_ Any player may ask the others to indicate the cards played by them to the current trick; but he must confine himself to the expression: “Draw cards.”

_=Irregular Remarks.=_ A player calling attention in any manner to the trick or to the score, may be called upon to play his highest or lowest of the suit led; or to trump or not to trump the trick during the play of which the remark is made.

_=Scoring.=_ A game consists of fifty-one points; fourteen of which must be made on every deal, as follows:--

1 for _=High=_, or the Ace of trumps.

1 for _=Low=_, or the Deuce of trumps.

1 for the _=Jack=_ of trumps.

1 for _=Game=_, or the Ten of trumps.

5 for _=Right Pedro=_, or the Five of trumps.

5 for _=Left Pedro=_, or Five of the same colour as the trump suit. All points count to the side winning them.

Any trumps found among the discards at the end of the hand count for the side that made the trump.

At the end of the hand, the number of points won by each side is added up, and the lower deducted from the higher, the difference being scored by the winners of the majority. If the result is a tie, neither scores. For instance: If A-B make 11, Y-Z must make the remaining 3, which deducted from 11 leaves 8 points for A-B to score.

If the side naming the trump suit fails to make as many points as they bid, they score nothing for that deal, and the number bid is scored by the adversaries, in addition to any other points that the adversaries may have made in play. The number bid and the number actually won, must be compared before deducting the points made by the adversaries.

The side first making fifty-one points wins the game.

* * * * *

_=Text Books.=_ There are two very good text-books on the game.

_The Laws and Principles of Cinch_, by G.W. Hall, 1891.
_The Laws and Etiquette of Cinch_, issued by the Chicago Cinch Club,
1890.

HEARTS.

Hearts is supposed by some persons to be an entirely new game; but its leading principle, losing instead of winning tricks, is to be found in many other card games, some of which are quite old. Slobberhannes, Enflé, Schwellen, Polignac, and The Four Jacks, all belong to the same family, but most of them have given way to the more popular game of Hearts.

There are several varieties of Hearts, but the principal arrangements are the same in all, and the chief differences are in the manner of settling at the end of the hand.

_=CARDS.=_ Hearts is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, which rank A K Q J 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2: the ace is the highest in play, but in cutting it ranks below the deuce. There is no trump suit.

When three persons play, the deuce of spades is thrown out of the pack; when five play, both the black deuces are laid aside, and when six play, all four deuces are discarded. It is usual to play with two packs, one being shuffled while the other is dealt.

_=COUNTERS.=_ Every deal is a game in itself, and must be settled for in counters immediately. It is usual for each player to begin with fifty counters, which are purchased from some person who is agreed upon to act as banker. When only two play, the game may be scored on a pull-up cribbage board, and settled for at the end.

_=PLAYERS.=_ Any number from two to six persons may play, but four is the usual number, each playing for himself against all the others. The players on the dealer’s right and left are known as the _=pone=_ and the _=eldest hand=_, respectively.

_=STAKES.=_ The value of the counters must be agreed upon before play begins, and the method of settling should also be understood, Sweepstake Hearts and Howell’s Settling being entirely different games, and requiring totally different methods of play.

_=CUTTING.=_ If seven players assemble, it is usual to make up a table in which the dealer takes no cards. If there are more than seven candidates for play, two tables must be formed.

Players draw from an outspread pack for the choice of seats and cards, the lowest cut having the first choice, and the others following in their order. The player cutting the lowest card takes the first deal, which afterward passes in regular rotation to the left.

In cutting, the ace is low. Any player exposing more than one card must cut again.

_=TIES.=_ If the first cut does not decide, those tying must cut again, but the new cut decides nothing but the tie.

_=DEALING.=_ Any player has the right to shuffle the pack, the dealer last. The cards are then presented to the pone to be cut, who must leave at least four in each packet. The cards are dealt from left to right, one at a time to each player in rotation until the pack is exhausted. No trump is turned. In Two-handed Hearts, the dealer stops when each player has received thirteen cards. The deal passes to the left.

_=Misdealing.=_ It is a misdeal if the dealer omits to have the pack cut, and the error is discovered before the last card is dealt; if he deals a card incorrectly, and does not remedy the error before dealing another; or if he counts the cards on the table, or those remaining in the pack; or if it is discovered before all have played to the first trick that any player has too many or too few cards. A misdeal loses the deal unless one of the other players has touched the cards, or has in any way interrupted the dealer.

If any card is exposed by the dealer, the player to whom it is dealt may demand a new deal, provided he has not touched any of his cards. Any one dealing out of turn, or with the wrong cards, may be stopped before the last card is dealt. After that the deal stands good, and the packs, if changed, must so remain.

_=IRREGULAR HANDS.=_ If, after the first trick has been played to, any two players are found to have more or less than their correct number of cards, the pack being perfect, the one having less must draw, face downward, from the hand of the one having more; and each must pay five counters into the pool.

_=OBJECTS OF THE GAME.=_ As a general proposition, the object of each player is to avoid getting any hearts in the tricks he takes in. In some varieties of the game his object must be to take no hearts; in others it will be to take less than his adversaries; while in others it will be to take less than four. After a person has taken in one or more hearts, his object will be to _=load=_ the others; that is, to see that they get some hearts also; or it may be to see that a given player takes at least one heart; or that no one but himself takes any. The manner in which a person must vary his play in accordance with these different objects will be discussed when we come to the suggestions for good play. In the meantime, it is necessary to bear in mind only the general principle that the object of the game is to avoid winning any tricks that contain hearts.

_=METHOD OF PLAYING.=_ The cards dealt, the player to the left of the dealer begins by leading any card he pleases, and the others must follow suit if they can. The highest card played, if of the suit led, wins the trick. There is no trump suit. If a player has none of the suit led, he may discard anything he pleases. The winner of the trick takes it in and leads for the next trick, and so on until all the cards have been played. The tricks themselves have no value as such, and need not be kept separate.

_=Irregularities in Play.=_ If any player omits to play to a trick, and plays to a following one, he is not allowed to correct his error, but is compelled to take the thirteenth or last trick, with whatever hearts it may contain. If a player is found, during or at the end of a hand, to be a card short, all others at the table having their right number, and all having played to the first trick, the player with the short hand is compelled to take the last trick, with whatever hearts it may contain.

_=Exposed Cards.=_ Should a person lead or play two cards to one trick, he is allowed to indicate the one intended; but he must leave the other face upward on the table. All exposed cards are liable to be called by any player at the table, and should one player call such a card, his decision is binding on the others. A player with an exposed card in front of him must play it when called upon, provided he can do so without revoking; but he cannot be prevented from getting rid of the exposed card in the course of play, if the opportunity offers.

_=Leading Out of Turn.=_ Should a player lead out of turn, he may be called upon to lead or not to lead a heart when it is next his turn to lead. This penalty can be enforced only by the player on his right. If all have played to the false lead the error cannot be rectified; but if all have not played, their cards must be taken back, and are not liable to be called.

If any person plays out of turn in any trick, the player on his left, not having played, may demand that the card be taken back, and after the proper player has played the player in error may be called upon to play his highest or lowest of the suit led, or not to discard a heart. If the person on the left of the player in error was the leader in the trick, either he or the player whose proper turn it was to play may demand the penalty.

_=Revoking.=_ Any player failing to follow suit, when able to do so, may amend his error if he discovers his mistake before the trick in which it occurs has been turned and quitted. The card played in error then becomes an exposed card. Those who have played after him have the privilege of withdrawing their cards and substituting others, without penalty. Should the revoking player not discover his error in time, the hand must be played out, and if the revoke is detected and claimed the player in error must pay all the losses on that hand. Should the revoking player win the pool himself, he must pay the thirteen counters to the pool, and leave them for a _=Jack=_. Should he divide the pool with another player, he must pay his co-winner six counters, and put up the other seven for a Jack.

If two or more players revoke in the same hand, each must pay the entire losses in that hand as if he were alone in error; so that if two should revoke and a third win the pool, the latter would receive twenty-six counters instead of thirteen. In Auction Hearts, the revoking player must also refund the amount put up by the bidder. A revoke must be claimed and proved before the pool is divided. Non-compliance with a performable penalty is the same as a revoke.

_=SETTLING.=_ After the last card has been played, each player turns over his tricks, counts the number of hearts he has taken in, and announces it. Players should be careful not to gather or mix the cards until all thirteen hearts have been accounted for. Each player then pays into the pool for the number of hearts he has taken in, according to the system of settlement agreed upon before play began. The pool is then taken down by the player or players winning it, and the deal passes to the left. The game is at an end any time the players wish to stop, after a hand has been settled for; but it is usual to agree upon some definite hour.

There are two ways of settling at the end of the hand, each of which has its good points.

_=SWEEPSTAKE HEARTS.=_ After the hand has been played, each player announces the number of hearts he has taken in, and pays into the pool one counter for each. All thirteen hearts having been paid for, any player having taken no hearts wins the entire pool; two having taken none, divide it. If all the players have taken hearts, or if one player has taken all thirteen, the pool remains, and forms a _=Jack=_. This can be won only by a single player in some subsequent deal taking no hearts, all the others having taken at least one. These jack pools are of course increased thirteen counters every deal until some player wins the whole amount. Some clubs make it a Jack after two players have divided a pool, using the odd counter as a starter. It will be found that natural Jacks occur quite frequently enough without resorting to this expedient.

_=HOWELL’S SETTLING.=_ The great objection to the method of settling at Sweepstake Hearts is that it makes the game almost entirely one of chance. No matter how good a player one may be, good luck alone will bring success. In a four-handed game it is possible for one player to take in only 58 hearts in 60 deals, and still to be 46 counters behind; while another player may take in 500 hearts in 60 deals and be 46 counters ahead. It may be claimed that the player who has 46 counters ahead at the end was the better player, because he won; but most persons will agree that a player who takes in only 58 hearts in 60 deals is a much better player than one who has taken in 500 hearts in the same time.

It was to remedy this defect, and to give skill its proper percentage of value, that Mr. E. C. Howell of Boston proposed the manner of contributing to and dividing the pools which is now known as Howell’s Settling.

Each player begins with an equal number of counters, usually 100. At the end of the hand, after the hearts have been counted and announced, each player pays into the pool, for every heart he holds, as many counters as there are players besides himself. For instance: A, B, C and D play. A takes three hearts; B and C five each, and D none. There being three players besides himself, A puts up three times three, or 9 counters. B and C put up 15 each, and D none; so that there are 39 in the pool. Each player then takes out of the pool 1 counter for every heart he did _=not=_ hold when the hearts were announced. D, having taken no hearts, gets 13 counters. A, having taken three hearts only, is entitled to 10 counters for the 10 hearts he did not hold, while B and C get 8 each. This exhausts the pool. There are no Jacks in this way of settling.

Matters may be facilitated by having counters of different colours, the white being the unit, and the red representing the number which it will be necessary to pay for one heart. Practice will make the players so familiar with the amount of the various profits or losses that they simply pay or take what is due to them.

The first time this is played it looks like a pretty severe game for a player who takes in a large number of hearts on one deal; but it will be found that he rapidly recovers. During a sitting of any length the player who takes in the smallest number of hearts must be the winner. In the case mentioned in connection with Sweepstake Hearts, in which one player lost 46 counters while another won 46, in 60 deals, the result at Howell’s Settling would have been that the player who took in only 58 hearts would be 548 counters ahead instead of losing 46; while the one who took in 500 hearts would lose 1220 counters, instead of winning 46.

_=METHODS OF CHEATING.=_ Under the rule for dealing the cards one at a time, the greek must be very skilful to secure any advantage at Hearts. But when it is the practice to deal the cards three at a time, and four on the last round, it is an easy matter to get four small hearts together on the bottom of the pack. Any person who is observed to hold three or four small hearts every time he deals, should be carefully watched, and it will usually be found that he gathers the small hearts from the hands of the other players while the pool is being divided. Marked cards are of little use to the greek at hearts, because so much depends on what a player holds, and so little on his play.

VARIETIES OF HEARTS.

Before proceeding to suggestions for good play, it will be better to describe some of the variations of the game in common use, because what would be good play in one variation would not be in another.

_=TWO-HANDED HEARTS.=_ The two players having cut for the deal, thirteen cards are given to each, one at a time, and the remainder of the pack is left on the table, face down. The dealer’s adversary, usually called the pone, begins by leading any card he pleases, and the dealer must follow suit if he can, as in the ordinary game. The winner of the trick takes it in, but before leading for the next trick he draws one card from the top of the pack lying on the table, restoring the number of his cards to thirteen. His adversary then draws the next card, and the cards are played and drawn in this manner until the pack is exhausted. The thirteen cards remaining in the hands of the two adversaries are then played, and after the last trick has been won, each turns over his cards and counts the number of hearts he has taken in. The object of the game is to take fewer hearts than your opponent, and the method of settling is either for the greater number to pay the lesser the difference; or, for the first six hearts taken by the loser to count nothing, but all above six to be paid for. The most popular way is to peg up the difference on a cribbage board, and to settle at the end of the sitting.

_=THREE-HANDED HEARTS.=_ The deuce of spades is discarded, and seventeen cards are dealt to each player, one at a time, after which the game proceeds in the usual way. There are several methods of settling. Howell’s method is undoubtedly the best, but Sweepstakes is very common. An excellent way is for the player who takes the largest number of hearts to pay the two others as many counters as he has hearts in excess of theirs. If two have an equal number, both pay the low man. There are no Jacks.

_=AUCTION HEARTS.=_ This is usually played by four persons, although five or six may form a table. After the cards have been dealt in the usual way, the player to the left of the dealer examines his cards, and determines which suit he would prefer to play to get clear of. It may be that if the game were to get rid of clubs instead of hearts, his hand would be a very good one, whereas if the suit were to remain hearts it would be a very bad hand. As the pool will contain thirteen counters to a certainty, he can afford to pay something for the better chance he will have to win it if he is allowed to make clubs the suit to be avoided, instead of hearts. He bids whatever amount he is willing to pay for the privilege of changing the suit, without naming the suit he prefers. The next player then has a bid, and so on in turn, the dealer bidding last. There are no second bids.

The player making the highest bid pays into the pool the amount he has bid. He then names the suit to be avoided, and leads for the first trick, regardless of his position with respect to the deal. The dealer’s position is a great advantage, on account of its having the last bid.

After the hand is played, those who have taken in any cards of the suit announced to be avoided, pay one counter to the pool for each of them. If any one player gets clear, each of the others having at least one of the tabooed suit, he takes the entire pool. If two get clear, they divide the pool, leaving any odd counter to form the basis of a Jack, as at Sweepstakes. If one player takes all thirteen, it is a Jack; but instead of the next choice being sold to the highest bidder, the one who named the suit on the hand that made the pool a Jack has the choice of suits again for the next deal, and he must select some suit without paying anything further for it, until some player wins what he paid for the choice in the first place. That is, the pool must be won before the choice can be sold again.

The general principle of the game is for the players to combine against the successful bidder, and to spare no effort to prevent him from winning the pool.

_=SPOT HEARTS.=_ In this variation, when the hearts are announced at the end of the hand, the spots on them are the units of value, the Jack being worth 11, the Queen 12, the King 13, and the Ace 14. This adds nothing to the interest or skill of the game; but rather tends to create confusion and delay, owing to the numerous disputes as to the correctness of the count.

The total to be accounted for in each deal is 104. In settling, the player with the smallest number collects from each of the others the amount they have in excess of his. If two or more players have an equal number, or none at all, they divide the amount collected from each of the others. For instance: Four play, A has 8 points, B 24, C 18, and D 54. As 8 points is the lowest, B pays A 16, C pays him 10, and D pays him 46. If A and B had 8 each, C 32, and D 56, C would pay 24, and D 48; and A-B would divide the amount between them.

The chief variation in play arises from the fact that one who must win a heart trick cannot always afford to play his highest heart as in the ordinary game.

_=JOKER HEARTS.=_ In this variation, the heart deuce is discarded, and the Joker takes its place. The Joker occupies a position between the Jack and the Ten in value, with the added peculiarity that it cannot be discarded on a plain suit; for if it is, it wins the trick unless there is a higher heart in the same trick. If a player has the Joker dealt to him, his only chance to get rid of it is to play it on a trick in which hearts are led, or to discard it on a plain suit on which some other player has already discarded a higher heart than the Ten. Under such circumstances, the holder of the Joker is allowed to discard it, even if he has one of the suit led, and the Joker being in the trick compels the player who discarded the higher heart to take it in.

In settling, the Joker is worth five counters. If the player to whom it was dealt takes it in, he pays these five counters to the pool. If another player gets the Joker, he must pay the five counters to the player who got rid of it. The remainder of the pool is then divided in the usual way. This is a most exasperating game.

_=DISCARD HEARTS.=_ This is sometimes called _=Black Jack=_, or _=Black Lady=_. If it is the Jack, it is worth ten hearts; if it is the Queen, it is worth thirteen hearts.

After the cards are dealt, each player in turn lays out three cards which he does not want, and the player on his left is obliged to take them, after having discarded himself. No player may look at what he is going to get until he has discarded himself.

The Black Jack or Lady holds its rank as a spade when spades are led; but the moment any other suit is led, of which the player is void, he can discard the Black Jack or Lady, just as he would get rid of a heart. If hearts are led and the player has no hearts, he can play the Black Jack or Lady to the trick, as it ranks below the deuce of hearts.

_=PROGRESSIVE HEARTS.=_ The general arrangements for the players and their positions are exactly the same as those already described in connection with Progressive Euchre. The players at each table cut for the deal, and play begins with the tap of the bell at the head table. Only one deal is played at each table.

There are no counters. At the end of the hand the ladies compare their cards, and the one having the fewer hearts goes to the next higher table. The gentlemen then compare their cards in the same way, so that one lady and one gentleman go up from each table at the end of every hand. They take the seats vacated by those leaving the table they go to. All ties are determined by cutting, those cutting the lower cards going up. In cutting, the ace is low.

Each player is provided with a score card, to which the gold, red and green stars are attached as in Euchre. The gold stars are given to those at the head table who have the fewest hearts. Those moving from other tables receive red stars; and those taking in the most hearts at the booby table receive green stars. Prizes are given to the ladies and gentlemen having the greatest number of each variety of star; but the same player cannot win two prizes. If there is a tie in one class, the number of other stars must decide; equal numbers of gold being decided by the majority of red on the same card; red ties, by the greater number of gold; and green ties by the fewest number of gold stars.

_=HEARTSETTE.=_ Heartsette differs from hearts only in the addition of a widow. When four play, the spade deuce is deleted; twelve cards are given to each player, and the three remaining form the widow, which is left face downward in the centre of the table. When any other number play, the full pack is used. If there are three players, three cards are left for the widow: two cards are left when five play, and four when six play. The player winning the first trick takes in the widow, with any hearts it may contain. He is entitled to look at these cards, but must not show or name them to any other player. The game then proceeds in the usual way. Payments are made to the pool for all hearts taken in, and the pool is then won, divided, or remains to form a Jack, just as at Sweepstake Hearts. The chief difference in the game is that the other players do not know whether the winner of the first trick is loaded or not, and he is the only player who knows how many or what hearts are still to be played.

_=DOMINO HEARTS.=_ In this variation, six cards only are dealt to each player, the remainder of the pack being left face down on the table. When a player is unable to follow suit, he must draw cards from the stock, one at a time, until he can. The last player with any cards left in his hand must take what is left of the stock, if any. The hearts taken in are then counted as usual. Thirty-one points is game, and the winner is the player who has the least hearts scored when some other player reaches thirty-one.

SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY.

A good player, after sorting his hand, carefully estimates its possibilities. The hand may be such that it is evidently impossible to avoid taking some hearts. The player must then decide whether he will play to give each of the others hearts, or will take them all himself. If he succeeds in either object he has a chance to win back his money in the ensuing Jack. In deciding on his chances to get clear without taking a single heart, the player must first consider the advisability of beginning with a heart, or with a plain suit. If hearts, he should know the probability of the heart he leads not winning the trick; if a plain suit, he should know the probability of the suit going round one or more times without hearts being discarded on it, especially if he intends to lead high cards. These chances must then be balanced one against the other and the more favourable selected.

_=LEADING HEARTS ORIGINALLY.=_ When your hearts are so small as to be absolutely safe, such as the 7 5 3 2, it might be supposed that the best play would be to lead them at once, in order to get a large number of hearts out of your way. But with such cards it is usually much better play, unless you have a very dangerous hand in plain suits, to reserve these small hearts until you have a more definite idea, from the fall of the cards, to whom you are giving them. Such cards are particularly useful for getting rid of the lead at dangerous stages in the end-game.

When the plain-suit cards are high or dangerous, but the hearts are reasonably safe, it is usually better to lead the hearts, and to continue leading them every time you get in. By following these tactics it is quite possible for you to take almost every trick in the plain suits, and yet to win the pool by rapidly exhausting the hearts.

If you lead the ♡ 4, the only chance for it to win is that one player has no hearts, and that the 2 and 3 are divided. The odds against this combination of circumstances will vary with the number of hearts you hold with the 4, but may be generally stated on the average as about 50 to 1. It is usually considered a safer lead than a high card of a plain suit, even if you have only three of the suit.

If your only heart is the 5, and you propose to lead it, the chances that the 2, 3, and 4 are not each in separate hands are about 19 in 25, or 19 to 6 against it, which is about 3 to 1. If you lead the 5, the odds against your winning the trick decrease as the number of hearts you hold with the 5 increases. If you have four hearts, the 5 being the lowest, the odds against its winning the trick, if you lead it, are about 29 to 11. If you have eight hearts, the 5 being the lowest, it is about an even chance. If your only heart is the 6, it is about an even chance that it will win the trick; but the odds against you increase rapidly with the number of additional hearts that you hold. If you propose to lead the 7, the chances that it will win the trick are 2 to 1 under the most favourable circumstances, which are when it is your only heart. These odds against you increase rapidly with the number of additional hearts that you hold.