Chapter V (30)

Stechen, G., to trump.

Still Pack, the one not in play when two are used.

Stock, cards left after the deal is complete, but which are to be
used in the following play.

Stool Pigeon, a hustler.

Straight Whist, playing a hand and immediately shuffling the
cards for another deal, as distinguished from Duplicate.

Strength in Trumps, enough to justify a player in passing a
doubtful trick; usually four or five at least.

Strengthening Cards, those which are of no practical trick-taking
value to the leader, but which may be useful to the partner;
usually restricted to Q J 10 9.

String Bets, those that take all the odd or all the even cards to
play one way, win or lose, at Faro.

Strippers, cards trimmed so that certain ones may be pulled out
of the pack at will.

Strohman, G., the dummy at Whist or Bridge.

Strong Suits, those in which a number of tricks can be made
after the adverse trumps are out of the way.

Sub Echo, a trump signal in a plain suit, made after partner has
led trumps, and the player has not echoed on the trump lead.

Sub-sneak, a two-card suit which is led for the sole purpose of
getting a ruff on the third round.

Sweating Out, winning a game without taking any risks, by
waiting for the trifling points that fall to your share.

Systems, any guide that keeps a player from guessing in the
distribution of his bets; as distinguished from a martingale, which
controls the amount of the wager itself.

Table Games, Chess, Checkers, and Backgammon.

Tables, the ancient name for Backgammon.

Taille, F., a number of packs shuffled together, which are not to
be reshuffled or cut until all have been used.

Talon, the same as Stock.

Team Playing, requiring every member of a team to play with
every other an equal number of times, at Whist.

Tenace. The major tenace is the best and third best cards remaining,
or unplayed, in any suit, such as A Q. The minor tenace
is the second and fourth best, such as K J.

Têtes, Kings, Queens and Jacks.

Three-card Monte. A game in which three cards are dexterously
thrown on the table by a gambler, and the victim is induced
to bet that he can pick out one which has been previously
named and shown.

Three-echo, an echo on a trump lead when holding three only.

Three-on-a-side, a system of playing Faro, in which cards are
bet to win or lose an odd number of times.

Tournée, F., see Round.

Trailing, playing a card which accomplishes nothing.

Trash, to discard.

Tric, F., the odd trick at Whist or Mort.

Tricon, F., three cards of the same denomination.

Tric-Trac, the European name for Backgammon.

Trump-showing Leads, a system of private conventionalities in
leading plain suits at Whist, to show the number of trumps held
by the leader.

Unblocking, getting out of your partner’s way when he has
more cards of the suit than you have.

Underplay, leading a card which is not the best of a suit, when
the best would naturally be led; or holding up the best card to let
another player win the trick.

Vade, F., the pool to be played for.

Vergeben, G., misdeal.

Verleugnen, or Verläugnen, G., to revoke.

Vivant, F., Dummy’s partner.

Vole, F., winning all the tricks, a slam.

Vorhand, G., the eldest hand, at Skat.

Vorwerfen, G., to play out of turn.

Weak Trumps, not enough to justify a player in passing a
doubtful trick.

Wedges, cards trimmed to taper toward one end, so that if
certain ones are reversed they can be easily pulled out.

Welcher, one who makes mouth bets, and afterward fails to pay.

Whipsawed, losing two different bets on the same turn.

Whiskey Hole, only one to go.

Whitewashed, defeated without having scored a point.

Wide Balls, those which are near the corner of the table, and
are almost sure to be hit by a ball coming from either cushion.

Wide Cards, those which are too far apart to be likely to form
sequences. See Close Cards.

Widow, any extra hand dealt in any game.

Wimmeln, G., to bunch the points together; to fatten a trick
for the partner.

Wimmelfinte, G., leading a card which is calculated to induce
the second hand to fatten the trick for his partner.

Winning Hazards, pocketing the object ball.

Winning Out, a card that wins four times in the same deal at
Faro.

Yarborough, a hand at Whist containing no card higher than
a Nine; the odds against it are 1827 to 1.

Younger Hand, the one not the leader in two-handed games.

Zange, G., a fourchette or tenace.

Zwickmuhle, G., a cross ruff.

DRIVE WHIST.

There are several methods of playing Drive Whist; the most popular being to fill as many tables as possible with the players that present themselves, regardless of any order further than that partners should sit opposite each other. The players may select their own partners, or they may be determined by lot, according to the decision of the hostess.

Straight whist is played; the cards being shuffled and cut afresh for every hand. Each deal is a game in itself.

_=Drawing for Partners.=_ If there is an equal number of ladies and gentlemen, and the number is less than fifty-two, a sufficient number of red and black cards should be sorted out, and the ladies asked to draw from the red, the men from the black; those getting the same denominations being partners. For instance: 16 couples present themselves for play. The thirteen Hearts and the A 2 3 of Diamonds should be put into one hat for the ladies; the thirteen Clubs, and A 2 3 of Spades being put into another for the men. Those drawing the same denomination of Hearts and Clubs, or of Spades and Diamonds are partners.

Before play begins, the number of hands which it is proposed to play should be announced, or a time set for adjournment.

_=Driving.=_ There is no rank attached to the tables, but they should be arranged in such a manner that players may know which table to go to next. The partners seat themselves wherever they please, and at the tap of the bell at the head of the table the deal is cut for, and play begins. The winners of the majority of the thirteen tricks at each table go to the next table. Here they may either continue to play as partners, or may divide, which ever has been the style of play decided upon by the hostess. When the partnerships have been drawn for, it is usual to preserve them for the evening.

The losing gentleman at each table has the deal for the next hand.

_=Scoring.=_ Every hand must be played out for all it is worth, both winners and losers scoring all the tricks they take. If the same partners play together throughout the evening, one score-card will do for the couple. If they divide, each individual must have his or her own score-card. The winners are those who have taken the greatest number of tricks in the agreed number of hands, or during the time limit. When partners divide as they drive on, there should be two prizes, one for ladies, and one for gentlemen.

BID WHIST.

This is a popular game on trains, or wherever it may be necessary to stop at the end of a deal without finishing the game. Thirteen cards are dealt to each player, one at a time, but no trump is turned. Partners sit opposite each other, and the player to the left of the dealer makes the first bid.

_=BIDDING.=_ The bidding goes round until no one will go any higher. The eldest hand starts by naming the number of points he will make if allowed to name the trump and lead to the first trick, but he does not name the suit he purposes picking out. It is not necessary to lead a trump.

There are two ways to bid. In some places there are seventeen points to be played for in each deal; one for each trick of the thirteen and one for each of the four honours, ace king queen and jack, in the trump suit. Honours count to the side winning them, and not to the original holders, so that a player holding the four top honours in any suit could safely bid eight; four tricks and four honors being a certainty, but if that was all he made he would lose on the deal, as the other side would score nine points out of the seventeen.

In other places, it is the rule that the bidder must make the odd trick or he cannot count honours or anything else. There are then only eleven points to be played for in each deal; seven odd tricks and four honours. Any player bidding four would have to win the odd and three honors, or two odd and two honours, or something to make up his bid.

_=SCORING.=_ No matter how many more than his bid he makes, he can score it all. If he fails, he is set back the amount of his bid. If his adversaries win the odd trick or more, they count one point for each trick over the book in addition to the amount by which they set the bidder back.

When there are seventeen points in play each deal, it is usual to take the lower score from the higher and score the difference only, but when the bidder fails, he is not set back, but simply gets nothing at all, while his opponents score all they make, without any deductions.

NORWEGIAN WHIST.

_=CARDS.=_ This variety of whist is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, which rank from the A K Q down to the deuce. In cutting, the ace is low.

_=PLAYERS.=_ Four persons cut for partners, the two highest playing against the two lowest, the lowest cut having the choice of seats and cards and dealing the first hand.

_=DEALING.=_ The cards shuffled and cut, thirteen are given to each player, one at a time in rotation to the left. No trump is turned, as every hand is played without a trump.

_=MISDEALING.=_ In case of any irregularity in the deal, the same dealer must deal again. The laws governing misdeals are the same as at whist or bridge.

_=OBJECTS OF THE GAME.=_ The play is for tricks alone, but whether the players try to win them or to lose them depends on the declaration. In Grands it is to win; in Nullos, it is to lose.

_=BIDDING.=_ The player to the left of the dealer makes the first bid. He may offer to play grand or nullo or he may pass. The moment either grand or nullo is named, the bidding ends. If the first player passes, the next to the left must declare himself. If all pass without a bid, the hand is played as a nullo. Any player bidding out of turn loses 20 points, and is barred from bidding on that deal.

_=METHOD OF PLAYING.=_ If the game is grand, the player to the _right_ of the bidder leads any card he pleases. If the game is nullo, the player to the _left_ of the bidder leads. If no bid is made, the player to the left of the dealer leads. Either partner may take in the tricks won by his side, keeping them separate, so that they may be easily counted.

_=SCORING.=_ The game is 50 points. Each trick over the first six counts four in grands, but in some places only two in nullos. This must be agreed upon before play. Tricks over the book count for the bidder’s side in grands, but against him in nullos. If the bidder and his partner fail to get the odd trick in a grand, his opponents count double for each trick they win over the book, but in nullos there is no double value.

_=PENALTIES.=_ In case of a revoke, the side in fault gives three tricks to its opponents in grands, or receives three if it is a nullo. The penalty for a lead out of turn is to call a suit.

RUM.

There are several varieties of this game, and quite a number of ways of playing them, but the standard method, as adopted by the best clubs, is that here given. The principal divisions of the game are those played with the single pack, and those played with the double pack and two jokers.

SINGLE-PACK RUM.

_=CARDS.=_ The full pack of fifty-two cards is used, ranking from the K Q J down to the ace, the suits having no rank. The ace may also be used in sequence with the king as the top of a sequence.

_=PLAYERS.=_ Any number from two to six may play, but four or five makes the best game.

_=CUTTING.=_ The cards are spread and drawn for choice of seats and first deal. The lowest cut has first choice, the next lowest sitting on his left and so on round the table.

_=DEALING.=_ When two play, ten cards are given to each. When three play, seven to each. When four play, six to each. The cards are dealt one at a time until all are helped and the next card is turned face up on the table as a starter for the discard pile. The stock is left beside this card, face down.

_=OBJECT OF THE GAME.=_ The aim of the players is to get rid of the cards dealt them and those they draw from the stock by laying face upward on the table any combinations of three of a kind, or three in sequence and suit.

_=METHOD OF PLAYING.=_ The player to the left of the dealer begins by taking into his hand the card that is face up, if it suits him, or the top card of the stock. If he takes the top of the stock, he puts it into his hand without showing it. He may then lay out any combination of three cards that he holds, but he is not obliged to do so. Whether he lays out anything or not, he must discard a card, face up, to take the place of the one drawn. This discard is always placed beside the stock, and of course covers up any card already there.

_=LAYING OUT.=_ After drawing from the stock and before discarding, a player may lay out any three cards, but no more than three at one time. Or he may add one card from his hand to any combination already laid out by another player, but he cannot add more than one card in this way. He may add a card to a combination laid out by himself if he wishes to.

_=CALLING OUT.=_ Each player in turn to the left draws, lays out and discards in this manner until some player gets rid of his last card, when he calls out, and the game comes to an end. The last card in a player’s hand may be got rid of by laying it out in combination, or by discarding it if it is the only card left.

_=SCORING.=_ As soon as any player calls out it is too late for any other player to lay down any combinations he may hold. Each player in turn to the left shows his hand and the winner gets credit for the pip value of his cards, jacks being worth 11, queens 12, kings 13.

It sometimes happens that the stock is exhausted before any player calls out. In this case the discards are turned face down without shuffling them and the pile drawn from as if it were the stock.

_=SPLASHES.=_ The game is sometimes played with the condition that if any player chooses to risk holding his hand until he can lay it all down at once, or lay down all but the one which he is allowed to discard, he wins double from each of the others. This prompts a player with a good hand to hold it up for a round or two on the chance of getting down a splash, but the player who sees there is no chance for him should get rid of as many cards as he can before the splash comes, and in many cases some player will get rid of all his cards in two or three rounds, and win without a splash.

POKER RUM.

_=CARDS.=_ In this variety of the game, the A K Q J are worth ten points each, the ace eleven, and the remaining cards their face value. The ace may be used as the top of a sequence Q K A, or the bottom of A 2 3, but not as part of a round-the-corner, K A 2.

_=DEALING.=_ Ten cards are always given to each player, no matter how many are in the game. If there are more than three at the table, the double pack must be used, so as to leave cards enough for the stock.

_=OBJECT OF THE GAME.=_ The aim of the player is to draw cards from the stock or discard pile until the pip value of the unmatched cards in his hand amounts to 15 or less. Sequences may run to any length, and four, five, or six of a kind is in order. The cards in hand that do not fit any combination of three or more are deadwood, and the object is to reduce this deadwood to less than fifteen.

_=METHOD OF PLAYING.=_ Each player in turn to the left of the dealer draws a card from the stock or the discard pile and discards one in its place, face up. No player is allowed to lay down anything until he can show his whole hand, and then only when his deadwood is fifteen or less, and he is not obliged to lay down even then if he prefers to wait until he can reduce his deadwood still further.

_=THE SHOW-DOWN.=_ As soon as any player can show down his hand, the game is at an end. He lays out his combinations and pushes them aside. Then he announces the pip value of his deadwood, after discarding a card in place of the one drawn. Suppose he draws the seven of hearts, and lays down the 6 7 8 9 of that suit; J Q K of clubs; discards the king of spades and leaves two deuces and a five for his deadwood. That is nine points.

Each of the other players in turn to the left then lays down his hand and pushes aside all combinations held. If the pip value of his deadwood is more than that of the player calling for the show-down, he pays the difference. If any player has less than the caller, then he is the winner, and each one at the table pays him, the caller paying him double as a penalty. In case of ties for low, they divide the losses of the others.

POKER GIN.

This is a variety of poker rum in which the deadwood must not exceed ten points and each player is allowed not only to put aside his own combinations after the call for a show-down comes, but may add any of his odd cards to the combinations laid out by the one who calls for a show-down.

Suppose that in the example given for poker rum, the caller showing 6 7 8 9 of hearts, J Q K of clubs, and nine in his deadwood, another player has in his ten cards the 7 8 9 of diamonds; 6 7 8 of spades, two fours and the tens of clubs and hearts.

When the show-down is called for, he has twenty-eight points in his deadwood; but by adding his club ten to the caller’s sequence of J Q K, and the heart ten to the caller’s 6 7 8 9 in that suit, he reduces his deadwood to eight points, the pair of fours, and beats the caller out by a point.

_=PENALTIES.=_ If any player turns out to have less in his deadwood than the caller, as in the example just given, the caller forfeits ten points to him, in addition to having to pay for the difference. Should a player call for a show-down when he has more than ten in his deadwood, he loses five points to each of the others at the table and takes up his cards again.

DOUBLE-PACK RUM.

_=CARDS.=_ This game is always played with two full packs of fifty-two cards each and two jokers, all shuffled together and used as one. The ace may be high or low in sequences.

_=DEALING.=_ Ten cards are given to each player, one at a time, and the next card is turned up and laid beside the stock to start the discard pile.

_=LAYING OUT.=_ Sequences in suit may run to any length, and any number of cards or combinations may be laid out at one time. Five, six or seven of a kind may be shown, and four of a kind may be of any suits. There is no obligation to lay out anything, but the player who lays out can do so only in his proper turn, after drawing a card. He may add as many cards as he pleases to any combinations already on the table, either of his own or other players.

_=THE JOKERS.=_ These two cards have peculiar privileges. A joker may be called anything the holder pleases. If it is used as the interior of a sequence, such as _6_ joker 8 of hearts, it must remain there, but if it is placed at the end of a sequence, any player has the right to remove it to the other end, placing it crossways, to show that it has been moved, provided he can put a card in its place, or add one to the sequence below the joker. A joker once moved cannot be moved again.

Suppose some player has laid out the 6 7 joker of clubs. The joker stands for the 8 of clubs. Another player holding the actual 8 of clubs could move the joker to the position of the 5 and add his 8. Or if he had the 4 of clubs, he could move the joker to represent the 5 and add his 4 to the sequence, or he might add both 8 and 4 if he held those cards.

On account of the privilege of laying out as many cards at a time as the player pleases, and adding as many as he can to other combinations, this is a much livelier game than the ordinary single-pack rum. The settling is the same, the winner getting the pip value of each player’s hand. In case no one has all his cards down before the stock is exhausted, which is very unusual, however, the discards are turned face down and drawn from again.

CANFIELD.

This form of solitaire is often confused with Klondike, but there is a marked difference both in the layout and the play.

The full pack of fifty-two cards is used. After it has been thoroughly shuffled and properly cut, thirteen cards are counted off, face down, and placed at the player’s left, face up. This is the stock. The fourteenth card is then turned face up and is the foundation for that deal. Let us suppose it is a seven. It is placed by itself, furthest from the player, waiting for the three other sevens to appear to form three other foundations, each in a different suit.

Four cards are then dealt off from left to right, face up, for the layout. Holding the remaining thirty-four cards in the left hand, face down, the player counts off three at a time and turns them face up on the table, but so that the top card only is seen. If this card can be used, the card under it is available. If not, the three are left on the table and three more turned up in the same way.

Let us suppose this is the appearance of the table:

The Foundation:-- 🂷

The Stock:-- 🃔

The Layout:-- 🃖 🃁 🂢 🂹

The top card of the three:-- 🃅
]

The player can make several changes at once. The five of diamonds will go on the club six, the club four on the five, the ace of diamonds on the deuce of spades, leaving a space which must be filled from the top of the stock, using the card that was under the four of clubs. Another card is exposed and available under the five of diamonds.

Cards built on the foundations must be in the same suit, and build upward, nothing but eights being available on the sevens. On the layout, sequences are built down, and must change colour each time. Any time that there is a space in the four columns of the layout, the top card of the stock may be used to fill the space, but the stock itself must never be added to. If there are only two cards in any of the four columns of the layout at any time, and the top one can be used on another pile, it may be taken for that purpose. Suppose the nine of hearts were built on down to a black six, the five of diamonds could be removed to that pile to release the six of clubs.

After running through the entire pack, three cards at a time, the cards that have not been used in the process, and which are lying on the table face up, are taken up again and turned face down, without shuffling them, and run through again, three at a time. As long as any card can be used it must alter the run of the cards that will turn up in threes after that, and the player may continue to go through the pack in this way until he is stopped by being unable to use any card that shows at the top of the three he turns up.

The betting is against the player getting eleven cards in his foundation piles. If the pack is purchased for $52, he gets $5 for every card in his foundations. It is almost impossible to get out the whole fifty-two for $260, but it is done occasionally.