Chapter VIII: Introduction (3)

The cost of molding is governed almost entirely by the cost of the raw material, and is always reckoned from a base price of 1 cent per square inch of section 1 foot long. On this price a discount is given, depending on the kind of wood and the finish desired. At present an average discount for soft woods, such as white pine, spruce, cypress, etc., is about 35 per cent. Thus, the actual cost of pine molding 1 foot long and 1 square inch in cross-section is

35 65
1 - ---- = ---- of 1 cent.
100 100

No discount is given on hard woods in many of the large eastern cities at present—oak, birch, and the like being figured net. For walnut, mahogany, and other high-priced woods, a special price is set, depending on the market and the local prices.

=84. Cost of Window Frames and Windows.=—The following is approximately the cost of a window frame with two 28" × 28" lights, where all mill work is priced at ₆₅/₁₀₀ cent per square inch per foot:

COST OF WINDOW FRAME

Jambs at head, ⁵/₄" × 5" × 16' $ .65
Sill, 2" × 5" × 4' 0" .26
Sub-sill, ⁵/₄" × 6" × 2' 9" .14
Blind stop, 1" × 2" × 16' 0" .21
Parting stop, ½" × 1" × 16' 0" .11
Outside casing, ⁵/₄" × 5" × 12' 0" .49
Head casing, ⁵/₄" × 7" × 4' 0" .23
Rabbeted cap, ⁵/₄" × 4" × 4' 0" .13
Molding under cap, 1" × 3½" × 4' 6" .11
Sill nosing, ⁵/₄" × 4" × 4' 0" .13
Inside casing, including apron, 1" × 5" × 20' 0" .65
Back band, ⁵/₄" × ⁵/₄" × 16' 0" .17
Inside stops, ½" × 2" × 14' 0" .10
Four sash pulleys, at 3 cents per pulley .12
Making frame, 1 hour, at 40 cents per hour .40
-----
Total $3.90

The cost of setting and casing such a window frame is about 70 cents. The total cost of the frame set in place is therefore $3.90 + .70 = $4.60.

The cost of the frame per square foot of light is therefore

$4.60 × 144
----------- = 43 cents
2 × 28 × 28

=85.= The cost of an ordinary window with two 28" × 28" lights may be estimated as follows:

COST OF SASH IN PLACE
Cost of two sash, ⁶/₄, double-hung, glazed with
single-thick American glass $2.10
Sash weights, 30 pounds, at 2 cents per pound .60
Cord, 22½ feet, at 1 cent per foot .23
Two sash lifts, at 5 cents each .10
Sash lock .15
Setting and hanging sash .35
-----
Total $3.53

If double American instead of single American glass is used, the cost just given should be increased by $1.

If the sash is glazed with single American glass, the cost per square foot of light will be

$3.53 × 144
----------- = 33 cents.
2 × 28 × 28

Therefore, the total cost of window and frame in place is 43 + 33 = 76 cents per square foot. If the sash is glazed with double American glass, the cost per square foot of light will be

$4.53 × 144
----------- = 42 cents.
2 × 28 × 28

Therefore, in this case the total cost of window and frame will be 43 + 42 = 85 cents per square foot.

For curved sash in curved walls, the cost is about twice as much as that of straight work.

=86. Cost of Door Frames and Doors.=—The following estimate represents the cost of an ordinary door frame. All molded work is put in the estimate at 1 cent per square inch of section per foot of length less 35-per-cent. discount, which is the same thing as ⁶⁵/₁₀₀ cent per square inch of section per foot.

COST OF A 2' 8" × 6' 8" DOOR FRAME IN PLACE

17 linear feet of ⁵/₄" × 6" rabbeted jambs $ .83
36 linear feet of 1" × 5" casing 1.17
36 linear feet of 1" × 2" back band .47
Dadoing and smoothing jambs and casing,
1 hour, at 40 cents per hour .40
Nails .05
Setting up jambs and casing,,
3 hours at 40 cents per hour 1.20
-----
Total $4.12

The area of the door is 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. = 17.78 square feet. Therefore, the cost of the preceding door frame per square foot of door is $4.12 ÷ 17.78 = 23 cents.

=87.= The following estimate gives the cost of a door of moderate price. The size of this door is 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. × ⁶/₄ in. It has four panels, is made of No. 1 pine, and is finished with solid ogee molding.

COST OF DOOR IN PLACE
Price of door $2.75
Setting door, putting on hinges and lock,
2 hours, at 40 cents per hour .80
1 pair of 4" × 4" japanned-steel butts .16
1 mortise lock, brass-face knobs and escutcheons .70
-----
Total $4.41

If the door is provided with stuck molding instead of solid molding, it will cost about 50 cents more.

The area of the door is 2 ft. 8 in. × 6 ft. 8 in. = 17.78 square feet. The cost per square foot is therefore $4.41 ÷ 17.78 = 25 cents. The total cost of door and frame per square foot of door is therefore 25 + 23 = 48 cents.

=88.= The door just described has no transom. A transom 2 ft. 8 in. × 16 in., complete, will cost about $1. The area of such a transom is 2 ft. 8 in. × 16 in. = 3⁵/₉ square feet. The cost per square foot is therefore $1 ÷ 3⁵/₉ = 28 cents.

The prices just given are for solid pine doors. Veneered hardwood doors are usually made to order. When the contractor bids on a house, the architect as a rule has not yet detailed the veneered doors; therefore, the contractor is more or less uncertain as to what will be required and usually puts in a price that he thinks will cover the cost. In the eastern part of the United States, for a veneered door, with ¼-inch veneers built of staved-up cores, a price of from 35 to 50 cents per square foot will be found adequate. This price does not of course include the frame.

=89.= There is now on the market a ready-made, veneered birch door known as the _Korelock door_. In using these doors, it is always cheaper to make the door frame of the correct size to take stock-size doors. The price of these doors is quite reasonable. For a 2' 8" × 6' 8" × ⁶/₄" door, with six cross-panels, the price is $2.80 for ⅛-inch veneer; if the door is ⁷/₄ instead of ⁶/₄ inch, the price is $3.25. This price of course includes no hardware or frame. A 2' 8" × 6' 8" × ⁶/₄" two-panel door costs $3.30, and if ⁷/₄ inch, it costs $3.75. A 2' 8" × 6' 8" × 1⅜", half-glass door, with plain glass, costs $5.55; with art or lace glass, the price is $6.20. This price includes the glass. If the door is 1¾ inches thick instead of 1⅜ inches, 65 cents should be added to the two prices just stated.

A fair workman can hang, trim, and put hardware, including mortise lock, on about four ordinary doors per day. For veneered doors, or those requiring extra care, not more than two can be put in place in a day by one man.

=90. Cost of Baseboards, Rails, and Moldings.=—The cost of material and fitting in place of baseboards may be estimated at 1³/₁₀ cents per square inch of section per linear foot. This price is for pine; if hardwood is used, the price will be 2 cents. The same rule also applies to chair rails, cap rails, and natural-finish picture moldings.

=91. Cost of Paneling and Wainscoting.=—Paneling may be estimated at 20 cents per square foot for ⅞-inch pine; if over ⅞ inch, add simply for extra material. If the paneling is of hardwood and veneered, add 50 per cent. to the price of pine.

Plain wainscoting may be estimated at 9 cents per square foot, the cap being figured separately by the linear foot.

=92. Cost of Stairs.=—The cost per step for an ordinary stairway, constructed according to the following specifications, is about $3.55. For a better class of work, about one-quarter should be added to this price. Length of steps, 3 feet; tread, Georgia pine; riser, white pine; open string, white pine; nosing and cove; dovetail balusters, square or turned; rail 2½ in. × 3 in.; 6-inch start newel, cherry; two 4-inch square angle newels, with trimmed caps and pendants; simple easements, furred underneath for plastering; treads and risers tongued together, housed into wall strings, wedged, glued, and blocked.

The material of such a stairway will cost about $1.84 per step. This rate includes landing fascia and balustrade to finish on upper floor. The labor on the same, mill work and setting in place, is about $1.71 per step. For example, for a stairs having 17 steps and landing balustrade (including return, about 14 feet), the entire cost will be 17 × $3.55 = $60.35, of which $31.28 will represent the cost of dressed lumber, including turned balusters and newels and worked rail, and $29.07 will represent the cost of labor in housing strings, cutting, mitering, and dovetailing steps, working easements, fitting and bolting rail, and erecting stairway in building.

=93. Cost of Verandas.=—For small dwellings, it has been found by experience that a veranda built according to the following specifications will cost about $3.75 per linear foot: Width, 5 feet; posts, turned, set 6 or 8 feet on centers; floor timbers, 2 in. × 6 in.; flooring, ⅞-inch white pine, sound grade; rafters, 2 in. × 4 in., dressed; purlins, 2 in. × 4 in., set 2 feet on centers; roof sheathing, ⅞-inch white pine; box frieze and angle mold; angle and face brackets; steps; no balustrade.

To include balustrade with 2-inch turned balusters, add about 60 cents per linear foot.

For a veranda built according to the following specifications, the cost will be about $6.75 per linear foot: Width, 8 feet; columns, 9-inch, turned; box pedestals; box cornice and gutter; level ceiling; roof timbers, 2 in. × 6 in.; roof covered with matched boards; tin, a good grade; floor timbers, 2 in. × 8 in.; floor, 1¼-inch white pine, second grade, with white-lead joints; no balustrade.

Including balustrade, with 2½-inch turned balusters, rail, and base to suit, add 80 cents per linear foot.

Where a portion of the veranda is segmental or semicircular, a close approximation to the cost will be had if the circumference of the circular part is measured, and a rate fixed at twice that for straight work of the same length. This applies to veranda framing, roofing, casing, and balustrades.

STRUCTURAL STEEL

=94.= The price of =structural steel= varies continually as the steel market fluctuates. The cost of erecting steel also varies continually and depends on the difficulties to be overcome. Heavy steel work costs less per pound than light roof trusses and domes, because less shop work is required in proportion to the weight. For average prices in the eastern part of the United States, heavy steel may be taken at 3³/₁₀ cents per pound. Roof trusses, due to extra framing, will cost about 3⁸/₁₀ cents per pound, and light, complicated dome work will cost 6½ cents per pound. These prices are for steel delivered and painted. To erect steel costs anywhere from ½ to 2 cents per pound, depending on local conditions.

HEATING AND VENTILATING SYSTEM

=95. Heating and ventilating work= should be estimated as indicated in the following paragraphs:

Estimate all pipes and fittings the same as for plumbing. Sum up all standard radiators, and the price per square foot of radiation. Figure special radiators separately.

Itemize all valves, air vents, hangers, etc.

Estimate on pipe coverings by linear foot.

Estimate sheet-metal, indirect-radiator casings in pounds.

Estimate sheet-metal flues and smoke pipes by the linear foot; but estimate elbows and dampers separately.

Estimate register boxes, registers, and borders separately.

Make separate items of expansion tanks, hot-water damper regulators, and furnace regulators.

Figure heaters, steam boilers, and furnaces from manufacturers’ catalogs.

In estimating on heating by furnace, the average cost of labor is about one-third that of materials. For steam and hot-water heating, the ratio is about one-fifth.

The cost of a hot-air installation is approximately 6 per cent. of the cost of the building; for steam heating, 8 per cent.; and for hot-water heating, 10 per cent.

PLUMBING AND GAS-FITTING

PLUMBING

=96.= An approximate figure for the cost of =plumbing= is 10 per cent. of the cost of the building. This figure is for good materials and labor, and of course is subject to considerable variation. The cost of labor alone will average about one-fourth the cost of the materials.

=97. Drainage System.=—In making estimates for the =drainage system=, measure all horizontal pipes from the plans and all vertical pipes from the sectional drawings.

Commence at the sewer outlet and measure the main-sewer line forwards into the building; then measure the horizontal branches.

Measure the vertical, soil, waste, and vent stacks to their terminations above the roof, and waste-pipe branches to the fixtures on the several floors.

Itemize the several pipes in the different kinds and classes.

Estimate all earthen pipe by the linear foot, allowing for Portland cement in the joints.

Estimate all cast-iron pipe by the linear foot, allowing for each joint ¾ pound of lead for every inch in diameter of the pipe.

Estimate wrought pipe by the linear foot, inclusive of couplings.

Estimate brass, copper, and lead pipe by the pound.

Estimate all traps, bends, branches, increasers, reducers, and other fittings separately, except such special brass fixtures, traps, and connections as are included in the cost of the fixtures. Do not figure lead bends that are smaller than 2 inches.

Estimate on brass ferrule connections at all points where lead pipe joins iron pipe.

Estimate on all solder joints (wiped), allowing 1 pound of solder for every inch inside diameter of the pipe.

=98. Water-Supply System.=—For water supplied from street mains, allow for permits, corporation tapping, and curb box.

Measure the service pipe from street main to cellar, and allow for a stop and waste cock inside the cellar wall.

Measure all horizontal distributing pipes from the plan views of the building and all vertical distributing pipes from the sectional drawings.

Measure all branches for the several fixtures on the different floors, to the lawn hydrants, etc.

Itemize the different kinds and classes of pipes.

Estimate lead, brass, and copper water pipes by the pound, and wrought water pipe by the linear foot.

Itemize all stop-cocks, pipe supports, straps, hangers, etc. separately.

Estimate all water-pipe fittings less than 1½ inches by the pound.

Figure on brass solder-nipple connections in all places where lead pipes join iron pipes.

Estimate on kitchen boiler, sediment cock, and range connections; also on faucets for all fixtures other than those which are included in the costs of the fixtures.

Estimate on garden hydrants and lawn sprinklers, and allow a stop and waste cock in cellar for each.

=99. Well Supply.=—For water supplied from a well, figure on double-action force pump in kitchen or laundry if the well is not deeper than 26 feet below the pump; for a deep well, estimate on a pumping engine or a windmill.

Measure lead tank linings in square feet, and estimate by the pound, allowing 1 pound of solder for every 2 feet of seams.

Allow 2 feet of lead pipe to connect iron pipes to house tank, and for stop-cocks close to tank.

Provide for telltale and overflow pipes for tank.

Estimate copper tanks in square feet and by the pound.

If there are iron, slate, glass, or cedar tanks, figure them separately.

=100. Fixtures.=—Estimate each =fixture= separately, and include traps, faucets, waste, vent, and water connections to walls or floors. When the sewer is long and has but little fall, figure on using a grease trap for the kitchen sink.

GAS-FITTING

=101. Cost.=—The cost of the =gas-fitting= may be approximately figured as about 3 per cent. of the cost of the building. The cost of labor alone varies from about one-fourth to one-seventh of the cost of materials. The better the grade of fixtures, the lower will be the ratio, provided there is no excessive ornamentation requiring much time to put in place, as the cost of the labor is about the same for cheap fixtures as for more costly ones.

=102.= Estimate piping the same as for plumbing.

Allow for meter, permits, tapping gas main, etc.

Figure each gas fixture separately set up in place. The owner usually makes a selection of fixtures from the manufacturer’s catalog. Allow for shields, fireguards, etc. in places where there is danger of fire.

Figure gas grates, gas stoves, gas heaters, etc. separately. Where the gas pressure is very high or unsteady, allow for a pressure regulator.

PAINTING AND PAPERING

PAINTING

=103. Painting= is measured by the superficial yard, girting every part of the work that is covered by paint, and allowing additions to the actual surface to compensate for the difficulty of covering deep quirks of moldings, for carved and enriched surfaces, etc. Ordinary door and window openings are usually measured solid, to compensate for the extra time taken in working around them, “cutting in” the window sash, etc. Porch and stair balustrades, iron railings, and work having numerous thin strips, are also counted solid, for a similar reason. Allowance is frequently made for the distance from the ground that the work is to be done, as in cornices, balconies, dormers, etc., and also for the difficulty of access.

Charges are usually made for each coat of paint put on, at a certain price per superficial yard and per coat.

Graining and marbling (imitations of wood and stone) and varnishing are rated at different prices from plain work.

Capitals and columns and other ornamental work that is difficult to measure should be enumerated, and a clear description of the amount of work on them should be given.

DATA ON PAINTING

=104. Quantities.=—One pound of pure lead-and-oil paint will cover from 2¾ to 3¼ square yards of wood for the first coat, and from 4½ to 6 square yards for each additional coat; on brickwork, it will cover about 1½ and 2 square yards, respectively. Colored paint will cover about one-third more surface than white paint.

Using prepared or ready-mixed paint, 1 gallon will cover from 250 to 300 square feet of wooden surface, two coats; for covering metallic surfaces, 1 gallon will be sufficient for from 300 to 400 square feet, one coat. The weight per gallon of pure mixed paints varies considerably, but, on an average, may be taken at about 16 pounds.

Prepared shingle stains will cover about 200 square feet of surface per gallon if applied with a brush; or, this quantity will be sufficient for dipping about 500 shingles. Rough-sawed shingles will require about 50 per cent. more stain than smooth ones.

One pound of cold-water paint, for the first coat, will cover from 50 to 75 square feet of wood, according to the surface condition, and about 40 square feet of brick and stone.

One gallon of liquid pigment filler, hard-oil finish, or varnish will generally cover from 350 to 450 square feet of surface for the first coat, according to the nature of the wood and the finish, and from 450 to 550 square feet for the second and subsequent coats. One pound of paste wooden filler will cover about 40 square feet.

One gallon of varnish weighs from 8 to 9 pounds; turpentine, about 7 pounds; and boiled or raw linseed oil, about 7¾ pounds.

For puttying, about 5 pounds of putty will be sufficient for 100 square yards of interior and exterior work.

For sizing, about ½ pound of glue is used to 1 gallon of water.

For mixing paints, the figures given in Table XIV represent the average proportions of materials required for each 100 pounds of lead.

TABLE XIV

QUANTITIES OF MATERIALS
========+======+=========+===========+==========
Coat | Lead | Raw Oil |Japan Drier|Turpentine
|Pounds| Gallons | Gallon | Gallons
--------+------+---------+-----------+----------
Priming | 100 | 7 | ½ | --
Second | 100 | 4 | -- | 2
Third | 100 | 6½-7 | -- | ½
========+======+=========+===========+==========

The drier is omitted in the second and succeeding coats, unless the work is to be dried very rapidly, as it is considered to be injurious to the durability of the paint.

On outside work, boiled oil is generally used in about the proportion of 1 gallon to 2 gallons of raw oil.

=105. Care in Painting.=—In painting woodwork, putty should not be used until after the first coat of paint or varnish has been applied. There are two reasons for this. In the first place, if putty is used on dry wood, the wood is liable to absorb the oil from the putty and leave it in a dry and crumbly condition. Then, also, the oil from the putty soaking into the wood will stain the wood dark, and this stain may be seen through varnish. For this latter reason, putty should be put in cracks and holes with a putty knife and not with the fingers, as otherwise the oil from the putty will get over the fingers and thus be transferred to the woodwork, where it will show as a dark stain if the wood is varnished.

Due care should also be taken in painting woodwork that has knots in it, as otherwise the turpentine in the knot will be sure to discolor the paint in course of time. To avoid this, the knots should be coated, or _killed_, with a coat of shellac before the first coat of paint is applied. The shellac prevents the turpentine in the knot from soaking through and discoloring the paint.

=106. Cost of Painting.=—The cost of applying paint on general interior and exterior work will average about twice the cost of the materials, while for very plain work, done in one color, the cost may be taken at about 1½ times that of the materials. For stippling, the cost will be about the same as for two coats of paint. For varnishing, the cost of labor will be about 1½ times the price of the varnish.

The following figures represent fair average prices, for various classes of work, and have been adopted by the Builders’ Exchange of a large eastern city:

COST PER
SQUARE YARD
INTERIOR WORK CENTS

1 coat of paint, including shellacking knots 10
2 coats of paint, including puttying 20
3 coats of paint, including puttying 25 to 30
1 coat of shellac 15
Walls, 1 coat of size, 2 coats of paint 20
Walls, 1 coat of size, 3 coats of paint, stippled 30

_Hardwood Finish_
1 coat of paste filler, 1 coat of varnish 25
1 coat of paste filler, 2 coats of varnish 40
1 coat of paste filler, 3 coats of varnish 50
1 coat of paste filler, 3 coats of varnish, rubbed
down to dull finish 60 to 75

_Finish on Soft Woods_
1 coat of liquid filler, 1 coat of varnish 20
1 coat of liquid filler, 2 coats of varnish 30
1 coat of liquid filler, 3 coats of varnish, rubbed 50
Floors: filling, shellacking, varnishing,
or waxing, 2 coats (or 4 coats in all) 40

_Tinting Walls (Cold-Water Paint)_
Tinting, 50 yards or less, including sizing 12
Tinting, 50 yards or more, including sizing 10

=107.= In =staining= hardwoods with open grain, such as oak, chestnut, ash, etc., it is customary, when a varnished surface is required, to stain the paste filler with oil colors so as to secure the desired tint and then finish with three or four coats of varnish. The staining adds about 5 cents per square yard to the cost of varnishing.

When it is desired to color the silver grain, or medullary rays, revealed in quarter-sawed material, the usual plan is first to stain the material with an oil or an aniline stain that permanently affects only the silver grain. Afterwards, the paste filler colored to the desired tint is applied, and this, on entering and closing the open grain, buries the first stain, but does not cover that over the medullary rays. This, as in the previous method of staining, adds about 5 cents a square yard to the cost of varnishing.

Another method of treating oak, chestnut, and ash is to stain the wood to the desired shade with an oil stain of the proper tint. This stain is applied with cheesecloth to an even surface, and, after puttying, one coat of flat varnish is applied. This process costs about 25 cents per square yard.

For silver-gray effects, the addition of aluminum bronze to the oil stain will give a pleasing effect. This costs about 28 cents per square yard.

When it is desired to have the open grain show a white effect, the usual method is to use a paste filler with zinc white added and then a coat of flat varnish. This costs about 30 cents per square yard.

Oak, chestnut, and ash maybe colored by fuming (to give the effect of age) with the vapors of ammonia released in a closed box. This effect is also produced by several patented processes. It costs about 30 cents per square yard.

EXTERIOR PAINTING COST PER
SQUARE YARD
_Woodwork_ CENTS
1 coat of paint 10
2 coats of paint, including puttying 18
3 coats of paint, including puttying 25 to 30

_Common and Pressed Brickwork_
1 coat of paint 15
2 coats of paint 25
3 coats of paint 35
Penciling and lining joints on painted brickwork 05
Penciling joints on pressed, unpainted brickwork 10

_Sanding_
2 coats of paint, 1 coat of sand 28
3 coats of paint, 1 coat of sand 35

_Miscellaneous_ COST
Dipping shingles, per 1,000 $3.00
Additional coat, per 1,000 shingles .50
Brush-coating shingles, per square yard .15
Blinds, per square foot, 1 coat, painted on
both sides .04
Additional coat for blinds, per square foot .04
Iron fence, per square foot, 1 coat, painted on
both sides .04
Tin roof, per square yard, 1 coat .05
Additional coat for tin roof, per square yard .04

=NOTE.=—For painting sand-lime bricks, double the prices
given for common and pressed brickwork.

PAPERING

=108. Papering= is usually figured per roll, put on the wall. The paper is generally 18 inches wide, and is in 8-yard rolls; double rolls are 16 yards. On account of waste in matching, etc., it is difficult to estimate very closely the number of rolls required, but an approximate result may be obtained as follows: Divide the perimeter of the room by 1½ (the width of paper in feet); the result will be the number of strips. Find the number of strips that can be cut from a roll, and divide the first result by the second; the quotient will be the number of rolls required. No openings less than 20 square feet in area should be deducted, in order to compensate for cutting and fitting at such places. About 15 per cent. should be added to the area to allow for waste. The border, whether wide or narrow, is generally figured as one roll of paper.

The cost of paper is extremely variable, ranging from 15 cents to $6 per roll; the average cost is probably 25 to 50 cents per roll, for ordinary houses. Paper hanging costs from 10 cents to $1 per roll, according to quality, with strips butted.

GLAZING

=109.= =Glazing= was formerly included in the painter’s contract, but as it is now customary and more convenient to oil or paint and glaze the sash at the mill when they are made, the glazing is included in the joinery specifications, and is not considered as a separate subdivision of estimating work.

In measuring glass, take the dimensions between rabbets each way when the panes are rectangular; if irregular or circular in form, take the extreme dimensions, and consider the panes rectangular. It costs about 1½ cents per square foot of light to glaze a window. This price includes the cost of putty.

Polished plate glass is used extensively for store-front windows and also for glazing window sash in fine work. There are three qualities: French plate, and two grades of American plate, which may be obtained in various sizes up to 8 feet wide and 14 feet long. The cost of plate glass is estimated by the aid of a price list that gives the cost of the various sizes. This list is furnished by dealers and remains the same from year to year; it is known as the _standard list_. The fluctuations are provided for by means of a discount, which is the same for all sizes of glass.

TABLE XV

PANES OF WINDOW GLASS PER BOX
========+======+=========+======+=========+======+=========+=====
|Panes | |Panes | |Panes | |Panes
Size | in | Size | in | Size | in | Size | in
Inches | Box | Inches | Box | Inches | Box | Inches | Box
--------+------+---------+------+---------+------+---------+-----
6 × 8 | 150 | 16 × 22 | 21 | 22 × 28 | 12 | 26 × 58 | 5
7 × 9 | 115 | 16 × 24 | 15 | 22 × 30 | 11 | 28 × 28 | 9
8 × 10 | 90 | 16 × 34 | 13 | 22 × 32 | 10 | 28 × 30 | 9
8 × 12 | 75 | 16 × 38 | 12 | 22 × 34 | 10 | 28 × 42 | 6
9 × 11 | 73 | 16 × 44 | 10 | 22 × 36 | 9 | 28 × 52 | 5
9 × 12 | 67 | 18 × 20 | 20 | 22 × 38 | 9 | 30 × 30 | 8
9 × 13 | 62 | 18 × 22 | 18 | 22 × 48 | 7 | 30 × 40 | 6
10 × 12 | 60 | 18 × 24 | 17 | 22 × 52 | 6 | 30 × 50 | 5
10 × 14 | 52 | 18 × 26 | 16 | 24 × 24 | 12 | 30 × 54 | 4
10 × 16 | 45 | 18 × 32 | 13 | 24 × 26 | 12 | 32 × 32 | 7
10 × 18 | 40 | 18 × 36 | 11 | 24 × 28 | 11 | 32 × 36 | 6
12 × 14 | 43 | 18 × 42 | 10 | 24 × 30 | 10 | 32 × 48 | 5
12 × 16 | 38 | 18 × 52 | 8 | 24 × 32 | 10 | 32 × 52 | 4
12 × 18 | 34 | 20 × 20 | 18 | 24 × 34 | 9 | 32 × 58 | 4
12 × 20 | 30 | 20 × 22 | 16 | 24 × 36 | 9 | 32 × 62 | 4
12 × 22 | 27 | 20 × 24 | 15 | 24 × 38 | 8 | 34 × 34 | 6
12 × 24 | 25 | 20 × 26 | 14 | 24 × 40 | 8 | 34 × 36 | 6
14 × 16 | 32 | 20 × 28 | 13 | 24 × 42 | 7 | 34 × 46 | 5
14 × 18 | 29 | 20 × 30 | 12 | 24 × 44 | 7 | 34 × 50 | 4
14 × 20 | 26 | 20 × 34 | 11 | 24 × 46 | 7 | 34 × 56 | 4
14 × 22 | 24 | 20 × 36 | 10 | 24 × 52 | 6 | 36 × 36 | 6
14 × 24 | 22 | 20 × 38 | 10 | 24 × 60 | 5 | 36 × 44 | 5
14 × 26 | 20 | 20 × 40 | 9 | 26 × 26 | 11 | 36 × 48 | 4
14 × 36 | 14 | 20 × 52 | 7 | 26 × 28 | 10 | 36 × 54 | 4
14 × 40 | 13 | 22 × 22 | 15 | 26 × 32 | 9 | 36 × 58 | 3
16 × 18 | 25 | 22 × 24 | 14 | 26 × 44 | 6 | 36 × 64 | 3
16 × 20 | 23 | 22 × 26 | 13 | 26 × 52 | 5 | 40 × 60 | 3
========+======+=========+======+=========+======+=========+=====

When stained or art glass is used, the specifications generally limit the cost, as the glass is made according to the architect’s designs or to approved designs submitted by manufacturers. The price depends more on the amount of lead or copper used than on the cost of the glass itself, and therefore no very close estimate can be made. The following figures are only approximate:

COST PER
SQUARE FOOT
Clear glass $1 to $3
Opalescent glass $1 to $3
Plate glass $2 to $4
Cathedral glass $3 to $5
Favrille glass About $8

Ordinary window, or sheet, glass is sold by the box, which contains, as nearly as possible, 50 square feet, whatever the size of the glass may be. There are two qualities of ordinary glass, known as _single_ and _double thick_, the former being about ¹/₁₆ inch thick, and the latter nearly ⅛ inch. Single-thick glass should never be used in panes over 24 in. × 24 in. in size. Table XV gives the number of panes of window glass in one box of 50 square feet.

ESTIMATING AND CALCULATING QUANTITIES

(PART 2)

EXAMPLE IN ESTIMATING

=1.= Following the rules and suggestions already given in _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, the estimate for a house will be made as a practical example, the drawings on which it is based being shown in the accompanying plates. In making the estimate, the various portions of the work are taken in the order in which they naturally occur in the erection of the building, following, as closely as possible, the estimating schedule heretofore given.

As far as possible, the figures given in the example should be checked up by taking off quantities and performing all the indicated work. It is only by actually making the calculations that any practical benefit from the work will be derived. _No two estimators, working separately, will arrive at exactly the same results; therefore, in following the calculations in this example, some discrepancies between the figures of the person performing the estimating and the ones given will no doubt be found._ These discrepancies should not be important ones, however, and by carefully studying the methods followed, results substantially the same as those computed here should be obtained.

EXCAVATION

=2.= In calculating the cubic yards of earth excavated for the cellar, all measurements are taken from the foundation plan and the sections. The plan is blocked out as shown in the accompanying Cellar Plan, and the area of each block found; then, by multiplying the sum of these partial areas by the depth of the cellar, the cubic contents is determined. The trenches for the foundation walls of porches and for the footings of cellar walls are calculated separately, as also are the excavations for piers, drains, cesspools, area, etc.

CELLAR EXCAVATION

SQUARE CUBIC
_Quantities_ FEET FEET

Block _A_, 23' 4" × 16' 4" 381.0
Block _B_, 14' 6" × 20' 10" 302.0
Deduct 4" × 3' 0" 1.0
Add for projection of wall,
(13' 6" + 7') ÷ 2 × 3' = 30.8
---- 331.8
Block _C_, 27' 6" × 17' 5" 479.0
Deduct for breaks in wall, 1' 7"
× 6' 8" and 2' 6" × 3' 18.0
---- 461.0
Block _D_, 26' 6" × 10' 5½" 277.2
Block _E_, 16' 8" × 11' 6½" 192.4
Deduct for breaks in wall, 6' 6"
× 1' 11" and 3' × 5" 13.7
----- 178.7
[2]Block _F_, 9' 10" × 9' 7½" ÷ 2 47.3
[3]Block _G_, 14' × 14' × .7854 ÷ 2 77.0
Deduct for portion of semicircular
part, included in _F_, 12" × 14'
approximately 14.0
---- 63.0
-------
Total area of excavation 1,740.0
Contents, 1,740 sq. ft. × 6.5 ft. (depth) 11,311.0

[2] The block _F_ is taken as a triangle. The block _G_ is a semicircle, and its area is found, as will be noticed, by finding the area of a circle and dividing it by 2.

[3] The block _F_ is taken as a triangle. The block _G_ is a semicircle, and its area is found, as will be noticed, by finding the area of a circle and dividing it by 2.

EXCAVATION FOR WALL FOOTINGS[4]
SQUARE CUBIC
_Quantities_ FEET FEET
_a b_, 26' × 2' 6" 65.0
_b c_, 5' 6" × 3' 16.5
_c d_, 9' 9" × 2' 6" 24.4
_d e_, 17' 6" × 2' 6" 43.7
_e f_, 27' 4" × 2' 6" 68.3
_f g_, 9' 2" × 3' 8" 33.6
_g h_, 21' × 2' 6" 52.5
_i j_, 27' 7" × 2' 6" 69.0
_j a_, 31' × 2' 6" 77.5
_k l_, 20' 2" × 2' 6" 50.4
Chimney, 12' 6" × 4' (approximately) 50
Deductions 10.4 39.6
_q r_, 16' 4" × 1' 10" 29.9
_r s_, 9' 2" × 1' 10" 16.8
_m n_ (less openings), 7' 9" × 2' 6" 19.4
_o p_, 20' × 1' 10" 36.7
------
Total area of excavation for footings 643.3
Contents, 643.3 sq. ft. × 10 in. (.833 ft.)
depth 535.9

MISCELLANEOUS EXCAVATIONS[5]
CUBIC
_Quantities_ FEET
Front porch, 69' 9" × 2' 3" × 3' 470.8
Back porch, 24' × 2' 4" × 3' 168.0
Piers for steps, 1' 8" × 2' × 3' × 2 20.0
Piers for side steps and back porch,
2' × 2' × 3' × 4 48.0
Cellar area, 5' 9" × 6' 4" × 6' 6" 236.7
Deduct 2' × 3' × 6' 6" 39.0
----- 197.7

Dry cesspool, 6 ft. diameter × 6 ft. depth 169.6
Cesspool, 6 ft. diameter × 8 ft. depth 226.2
Trench for pipe to cesspool, 25' × 7' 6" × 2' 375.0
Trench for drain pipes (roof drainage), 228' × 3' × 1' 684.0
Trench for drain pipes from junction to dry cesspool,
20' × 3' × 18" 90.0
--------
Total 2,449.3
--------
Grand total of excavation 14,296.2

[4] Lengths scaled along center line of walls.

[5] Lengths scaled along center line of walls.

FILLING
CUBIC
_Quantities_ FEET
Around foundation walls, 181' 2" × 6" × 6' 6" 588.8
Around foundation of porches, etc., 142' 3" × 6" × 3' 213.4
-----
Total filling 802.2

_Cost_

The cost of excavation in sandy soil, taken from _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, is 53 cents per cubic yard. The cost of filling, including tamping, may be taken as about one-third that of excavation, or, say, 18 cents per cubic yard.

_Summary_
Excavation, 14,296.2 cu. ft. = 529.5 cu. yd.,
at 53 cents per cubic yard $280.64
Filling, 802.2 cu. ft. = 29.7 cu. yd.,
at 18 cents per cubic yard 5.35
-------
Total cost of excavation and filling $285.99

STONEWORK

=3.= The foundation walls are built of rubble masonry to the sill at the grade line, and from this sill to the water-table they are built of ashlar with rubble backing, except those portions behind porches and steps, which are wholly rubble. The estimate for stonework also includes the concrete for footings and cellar floor; the number of cubic feet of concrete required for the footings will be found by referring to the item Excavation for Wall Footings.

RUBBLE MASONRY
CUBIC
_Quantities_[6] FEET
Cellar walls, 181' 2" × 1' 6" × 6' 6" 1,766.4
Add for extra thickness over 1' 6":
5" × 6' 3" × 6' 6" 16.9
1' 2" × 10' 8" × 6' 6" 80.9
----- 97.8

[7]Foundation walls for front porch:
74' 6" × 1' 8" × 1' 9" 217.3
74' 6" × 1' 2" × 9" 65.2
------ 282.5

Foundation for steps:
2 piers, 1' 6" × 1' 8" × 2' 6" 12.5
2 piers, 2' x 1' 6" × 2' 6" 15.0
----- 27.5

Stone footings under porch foundations, 74' 6"
× 2' 3" × 6" 83.8
Backing for ashlar and water-table, 79' 10" × 1'
(average) × 3' 239.5
Rubble wall behind porches, 101' 4" × 1' 6" × 3'
(approximately) 456.0
[8]Foundation walls, rear porch, 26' 10" × 1' 6" × 2' 6" 100.6
Footings, walls rear porch, 26' 10" × 2' 4" × 6" 31.3
Area walls, 13' 9" × 1' × 6' 6" 89.4
Stone footing for area walls, 13' 9" × 1' 9" × 6" 12.0
Piers, 1' 6" × 1' 6" × 2' 6" × 2 11.3
Pier footings, 2' × 2' × 6" × 4 8.0
Pier footings, 2' × 1' 9" × 6" × 2 3.5
---------
Total rubble masonry 3,209.2

[6] External measurements with no deduction for openings.

[7] Although these are made continuous, to carry the base, or ground sill, independent piers, under the porch columns might be substituted, at a somewhat less cost.

[8] Although these are made continuous, to carry the base, or ground sill, independent piers, under the porch columns might be substituted, at a somewhat less cost.

_Cost_

The cost of the rubble masonry based on the analysis given in _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, using 1-3 Portland cement mortar, is $5.23 per perch.

_Summary_

From the foregoing calculation, the quantity of rubble masonry is 3,209.2 cu. ft. Taking 25 cu. ft. to 1 perch, 3,209.2 ÷ 25 = 128.4 perches, which at $5.23 per perch makes the total cost of rubble masonry $671.53.

ASHLAR[9]
_Quantities_
SQUARE
FEET
Facing for cellar walls, 79' 10" × 2' 2" 173.0
Porch piers, 29' 6" × 1' 6" 43.9
-------
Total ashlar 216.9

[9] The walls between the base sill and the water-table are faced with ashlar, which extends around the main walls to the porches, and all porch piers are built of ashlar.

_Cost_

The estimated cost of ashlar is based on the following analysis of the cost of 1 square foot of ashlar:

Cost of stone, bluestone facing $.40
Hauling stone .03
Mortar .01

Labor, estimating 64 square feet per day of 8 hours, for two masons and one laborer:

Two masons, at $3.20 per day .10
One laborer at $2 per day .03
-----
Cost per square foot $.57

_Summary_

From the foregoing quantities, the ashlar amounts to 216.9 square feet, which, at 57 cents per square foot, will make the total cost of ashlar $123.63.

CUT STONE
_Quantities and Cost_
COST TOTAL
PER FOOT COST
Base, or ground sill, extending around
porches (except under stone steps) and
along exposed main walls, 172 ft., 5" × 11"
and 5" × 13" dressed and chamfered sandstone $1.00 $172.00
Water-table, extending around main walls,
181 ft. 2 in., 6" × 10" dressed and chamfered
sandstone .85 153.99
Lintel course, extending over brick walls,
125 ft., 6" × 10" dressed sandstone .85 106.25
Twelve dressed sandstone window sills, cut
with lug and drip, 55¾ ft., 5" × 8" .65 36.24
Cut-stone jambs and lintel for main door,
21½ ft., 10" × 12", sandstone 1.75 37.63
One front door sill, 5¾ ft., 6" × 10", sandstone 1.10 6.33
Coping on area walls, 9 ft., 3" × 16", sandstone .60 5.40
Front and side porch steps, 59 ft., 8" × 12",
dressed sandstone 1.25 73.75
Eight bluestone steps for cellar, outside entrance,
4' × 12" × 2" .35 11.20
Bluestone lintel for kitchen fireplace, 6' × 12" × 6" 1.20 7.20
Cut stone for main chimney 25.00
Cost to set cut stone, 20 per cent. 127.00
-------
Total cost of cut stone $761.99

CONCRETE FOOTINGS AND FLOOR
CUBIC
_Quantities_ YARD
Footings, as per Excavation for Wall Footings,
535.9 cu. ft. ÷ 27 19.8

SQUARE SQUARE
FEET YARD
Concrete floor:
Area of cellar excavation 1,740.0
Deduct area of footings 643.3
-------
1,096.7
Add for 6-inch strip over inner projection
of wall footings, 165' × 6" 82.5
Add for projection on both sides of interior
walls, 126' × 6" 63.0
Add for projection over chimney footing,
33' × 6" 16.5
-------
Total area of concrete floor 1,258.7 = 139.9

_Cost_

The estimate for concrete footings is based on the analyses of costs given in _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, and is $5.10 per cubic yard for a 1-3-5 mixture.

The estimate for the concrete floor is arrived at as follows:

The concrete will be a 1-3-6 mixture. According to _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, this mixture costs $4.92 per cubic yard. According to the same section, 25 cents must be added to this cost for extra labor, bringing the total up to $5.17 per cubic yard. If the concrete floor is 4 inches thick, the cost per square yard will be ⁴/₃₆ × 5.17 = 57 cents, approximately. The top coat, according to _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, is 40 cents. Therefore, the total cost of the concrete floor per square yard is 57 + 40 = 97 cents.

_Summary_

Footing concrete, as per foregoing figures,
19.8 cu. yd. at $5.10 per cubic yard $100.98
Concrete floor, 139.9 sq. yd.
at 97 cents per square yard 135.70
-------
Total cost of concrete $236.68

_Recapitulation of Cost of Stonework_
Rubble masonry $ 671.53
Ashlar masonry 123.63
Cut stone 761.99
Concrete footings and floor 236.68
---------
Total cost of stonework $1,793.83

BRICKWORK

=4.= In estimating the brickwork, openings have been deducted, thus practically giving “kiln count,” so that the analyses of prices given heretofore will apply. If openings had not been deducted, the prices would be 15 per cent. lower.

PRESSED BRICK
_Quantities_ NO.
BRICK
Facing exterior walls, same length as stone
lintel course, 125' × 8' = 1,000 sq. ft. at
7½ bricks per square foot 7,500
SQUARE
Deduct for Openings: FEET
Nine windows, total width 32' X 6' 6" high 208.0
Two casement windows, total width
7' 4" × 8' high 58.7
One lavatory window, total width 2' X 6"
× 5' 6" 13.8
Main door, 5' 5" × 8' 9" 47.4
-----
Total deductions 327.9

327.9 × 7½ = 2,459
-----
Number of brick 5,041
Add 5 per cent. for waste 252
-----
Total pressed brick 5,293

_Cost_

The cost of pressed brickwork is based on the analysis given in Estimating and Calculating Quantities, Part 1, and is $53.71 per thousand.

_Summary_
From the preceding estimate of quantities, the
number of pressed brick laid is 5,041, which,
at $53.71 per M, will cost $270.75
Pressed brick, not laid, 252, at $30 per M 7.56
-------
Total cost of pressed brickwork $278.31

COMMON BRICK
_Quantities_ NO.
BRICK
Backing exterior pressed-brick walls, 8½ in. thick,
5,041 × 2 = 10,082

Backing behind lintel course,
9" X 125' × 8" at 15 brick per sq. ft. 1,406

Interior cellar walls, 28' 4" × 8' = 226.7 sq. ft.
(17-inch wall) at 30 brick per square foot 6,801

Deduct for three openings, 12' 3" total width
× 6' 6" height = 79.6 sq. ft. at 30 brick
per square foot 2,388
----- 4,413
Interior wall, 8½" thick, 43' 9" × 8', 350 sq. ft.
at 15 brick per square foot 5,250
Chimney, principal (flues figured solid), approximately
920 cu. ft., at 22½ brick per cubic foot 20,700
Chimney, rear, approximately 245 cu. ft., at 22½ brick
per cubic foot 5,513
Trap pits, 46 sq. ft., at 7½ brick per square foot 345
------
46,303
Add 5 per cent. for waste 2,315
------
Total common brick 48,618

_Cost_

The cost of the common brickwork is based on the analysis given in _Estimating and Calculating Quantities_, Part 1, and is $16.68 per thousand for lime-cement mortar.

_Summary_
According to the estimate of quantities, the
number of common brick laid is 46,303, which,
at $16.68, will cost $ 772.33
Common bricks, not laid, 2,315, at $8 18.52
Molded brick and terra-cotta cap for rear chimney 10.00
--------
Total cost of common brickwork $ 800.85

_Recapitulation of Cost of Brickwork_
Pressed brickwork $ 278.31
Common brickwork 800.85
---------
Total cost of brickwork $1,079.16

CARPENTRY

=5.= In estimating carpentry work, it is advisable to make a tabulated list of the various sizes of joists, rafters, etc., giving the number and dimensions of each size. In this way, any error in calculation or change in price can be corrected with little difficulty.

As house-framing timbers and boards are sold at the yards in even lengths, as 10 feet, 12 feet, 14 feet, etc., uneven, or odd, measurements must be figured in even lengths from which they can be cut. Thus, if a stick 14 feet 7 inches in length is required, a 16-foot stick must be ordered.

Usually, the price per thousand feet, board measure, increases as longer sticks are used, although the practice varies in different localities. For example, in most localities hemlock timber in 10-, 12-, or 14-foot lengths is all one price per thousand, but a thousand feet, board measure, of 16-foot lengths costs more, and 18-foot lengths is still more expensive. The price of yellow pine, spruce, fir, etc. is usually constant up to 20-foot lengths, but from that length on the prices increase. The price of white-pine boards in most localities increases with their width. The hardwoods can be usually obtained in any reasonable length, the price increasing with the quality of the lumber more than with the length of the stick.

It can thus be seen that in house framing it is usually cheaper to use short sticks than long ones. However, for long members, a long stick is cheaper, because the extra cost that would be incurred in splicing two short sticks would more than offset the cheapness of the material. Of course, when very long sticks are required, say sticks 30 feet or more in length, a splice is cheaper, owing to the difficulty of obtaining them and their very excessive price.

No set rules can be laid down as to what size timber should be ordered, and every architect and builder should be governed by the prices in the locality where the house is to be put up.

FLOOR FRAMING, FIRST STORY
_Quantities_
LINEAR FEET
FEET B. M.
Joists, 3" × 10"; 2½ ft. B. M., per lin. ft.:
6 pieces, each 14' 6", order 16' 96
2 pieces, each 15' 3", order 16' 32
1 piece, 16' 3", order 18' 18
5 pieces, each 17' 6", order 18' 90
1 piece, 12' 6", order 14' 14
6 pieces, each 11' 0", order 12' 72
1 piece, 9' 6", order 10' 10
18 pieces, each 14', order 14' 252
1 piece, 11' 6", order 12' 12
3 pieces, each 10' 6", order 12' 36
1 piece, 9' 4", order 10' 10
6 pieces, each 24', order 24' 144
1 piece, 11' 4", order 12' 12
2 pieces, each 20' 6", order 22' 44
6 pieces, each 20', order 20' 120
4 pieces, each 21', order 22' 88
2 pieces, each 7', cut out of 14' 14
2 pieces, each 13', order 14' 28
1 piece, 10', order 10' 10
------
Total 1,102 2,755

FLOOR FRAMING, SECOND STORY
_Quantities_
LINEAR FEET
FEET B. M.
Girder, 6" × 12"; 6 ft. B. M., per lin. ft.:
1 piece, 8' 9", order 10' 10 60
Joists, 2" × 10"; 1⅔ft. B. M., per lin. ft.:
15 pieces, each 14', order 14' 210
2 pieces, each 15' 6", order 16' 32
5 pieces, each 17', order 18' 90
3 pieces, each 15', order 16' 48
14 pieces, each 16', order 16' 224
2 pieces, each 7', cut out of 14' 14
2 pieces, each 10', order 10' 20
4 pieces, each 11', order 12' 48
7 pieces, each 24', order 24' 168
3 pieces, each 20' 6", order 22' 66
4 pieces, each 12' 6", order 14' 56
2 pieces, each 13' 6", order 14' 28
------
Total 1,004 1,673

Joists, 3" × 10"; 2½ ft. B. M., per lin. ft.:
(Headers) 2 pieces, each 8' 9", order 10' 20
2 pieces, each 6', cut out of 12' 12
5 pieces, each 9' 9", order 10' 50
11 pieces, each 19' 6", order 20' 220
----
302 755

FLOOR FRAMING, ATTIC
_Quantities_
LINEAR FEET
FEET B. M.
Joists, 2" × 10"; 1⅔ ft. B. M., per lin. ft.:
15 pieces, each 14', order 14' 210
2 pieces, each 15' 6", order 16' 32
5 pieces, each 17', order 18' 90
3 pieces, each 15', order 16' 48
14 pieces, each 16', order 16' 224
2 pieces, each 7', cut out of 14' 14
2 pieces, each 10', order 10' 20
4 pieces, each 11', order 12' 48
7 pieces, each 24', order 24' 168
3 pieces, each 20' 6", order 22' 66
4 pieces, each 12' 6", order 14' 56
2 pieces, each 13' 6", order 14' 28
-----
Total 1,004 1,673