Chapter I (8)

[Sidenote: 1687. Davis sails to the Galapagos Islands.] Davis again sailed to the _Galapagos Islands_, to victual and refit his ship. Lionel Wafer was still with him, and appears to have been one of those to whom fortune had been most unpropitious. Wafer does not mention either the joining company with the French Buccaneers, or the plunder of _Guayaquil_; and particularises few of his adventures. He says, 'I shall not pursue all my coasting along the shore of _Peru_ with Captain Davis. We continued rambling about to little purpose, sometimes at sea, sometimes ashore, till having spent much time and visited many places, we were got again to the _Galapagos_; from whence we were determined to make the best of our way out of these seas.'

At the _Galapagos_ they again careened; and there they victualled the ship, taking on board a large supply of flour, curing fish, salting flesh of the land turtle for sea store; and they saved as much of the oil of the land turtle as filled sixty jars (of eight gallons each) which proved excellent, and was thought not inferior to fresh butter.

[Sidenote: King James's Island.] Captain Colnet was at the _Galapagos Isles_ in the years 1793 and 1794, and found traces, still fresh, which marked the haunts of the Buccaneers. He says, 'At every place where we landed on the Western side of _King James's Isle_, we might have walked for miles through long grass and beneath groves of trees. It only wanted a stream to compose a very charming landscape. This Isle appears to have been a favourite resort of the Buccaneers, as we found seats made by them of earth and stone, and a considerable number of broken jars scattered about, and some whole, in which the Peruvian wine and liquors of the country are preserved. We also found daggers, nails, and other implements. The watering-place of the Buccaneers was at this time (the latter part of April or beginning of May) entirely dried up, and there was only found a small rivulet between two hills running into the sea; the Northernmost of which hills forms the South point of _Fresh Water Bay_. There is plenty of wood, but that near the shore is not large enough for other use than fire-wood. In the mountains the trees may be larger, as they grow to the summits. I do not think the watering-place we saw is the only one on the Island, and I have no doubt, if wells were dug any where beneath the hills, and not near the lagoon behind the sandy beach, that fresh water would be found in great plenty[59].'

Since Captain Colnet's Voyage, Captain David Porter of the American United States' frigate Essex, has seen and given descriptions of the _Galapagos_ Islands. He relates an anecdote which accords with Captain Colnet's opinion of there being fresh water at _King James's Island_. He landed, on its West side, four goats (one male and three female) and some sheep, to graze. As they were tame and of their own accord kept near the landing-place, they were left every night without a keeper, and water was carried to them in the morning. 'But one morning, after they had been on the Island several days and nights, the person who attended them went on shore as usual to give them water, but no goats were to be found: they had all as with one accord disappeared. Several persons were sent to search after them for two or three days, but without success.' Captain Porter concluded that they had found fresh water in the interior of the Island, and chose to remain near it. 'One fact,' he says, 'was noticed by myself and many others, the day preceding their departure, which must lead us to believe that something more than chance directed their movements, which is, that they all drank an unusual quantity of water on that day, as though they had determined to provide themselves with a supply to enable them to reach the mountains[60].'

Davis and his men had leisure for search and to make every kind of experiment; but no one of his party has given any description or account of what was transacted at the _Galapagos_ in this his third visit. Light, however, has been derived from late voyages.

[Sidenote: The Island S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada, a Careening Place of the Buccaneers.] It has been generally believed, but not till lately ascertained, that Davis passed most of the time he was amongst the _Galapagos_, at an Island which the Spaniards have designated by the name of _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_, concerning the situation of which the Spaniards as well as geographers of other countries have disagreed. A Spanish pilot reported to Captain Woodes Rogers that _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_ lay by itself, (i. e. was not one of a groupe of Islands) in latitude 1 deg. 20' or 1 deg. 30' S, was a pleasant Island, well stocked with wood, and with plenty of fresh water[61]. Moll, DeVaugondy, and others, combining the accounts given by Dampier and Woodes Rogers, have placed a _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_ several degrees to the Westward of the whole of Cowley's groupe. Don Antonio de Ulloa, on the contrary, has laid it down as one of the _Galapagos Isles_, but among the most South-eastern of the whole groupe. More consonant with recent information, Pascoe Thomas, who sailed round the world with Commodore Anson, has given from a Spanish manuscript the situations of different Islands of the _Galapagos_, and among them that of _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_. The most Western in the Spanish list published by Thomas is named _S^{ta} Margarita_, and is the same with the _Albemarle Island_ in Cowley's chart. The _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_ is set down in the same Spanish list in latitude 1 deg. 10' S, and 19 minutes in longitude more East than the longitude given of _S^{ta} Margarita_, which situation is due South of Cowley's _King James's Island_.

Captain Colnet saw land due South of _King James's Island_, which he did not anchor at or examine, and appears to have mistaken for the _King Charles's Island_ of Cowley's chart. On comparing Captain Colnet's chart with Cowley's, it is evident that Captain Colnet has given the name of _Lord Chatham's Isle_ to Cowley's _King Charles's Island_, the bearings and distance from the South end of _Albemarle Island_ being the same in both, i. e. due East about 20 leagues. It follows that the _Charles Island_ of Colnet's chart was not seen by Cowley, and that it is the _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_ of the Spaniards. It has lately been frequented by English and by American vessels employed in the South Sea Whale Fishery, who have found a good harbour on its North side, with wood and fresh water; and marks are yet discoverable that it was formerly a careening place of the buccaneers. Mr. Arrowsmith has added this harbour to Captain Colnet's chart, on the authority of information communicated by the master of a South Sea whaler.

From Captain David Porter's Journal, it appears that the watering-place at _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_ is three miles distant from any part of the sea-shore; and that the supply it yields is not constant. On arriving a second time at the _Galapagos_, in the latter part of August, Captain Porter sent a boat on shore to this Island. Captain Porter relates, 'I gave directions that our former watering-places there should be examined, but was informed that they were entirely dried up.'

Cowley's chart, being original, a buccaneer performance, and not wholly out of use, is annexed to this account; with the insertion, in unshaded outline, of the _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_, according to its situation with respect to _Albemarle Island_, as laid down in the last edition of Captain Colnet's chart, published by Mr. Arrowsmith. This unavoidably makes a difference in the latitude equal to the difference between Cowley's and Captain Colnet's latitude of the South end of _Albemarle Island_. In Captain Colnet's chart, the North end of _S^{ta} Maria de l'Aguada_ is laid down in 1 deg. 15' S.

The voyage of the Essex gives reasonable expectation of an improved chart of the _Galapagos Isles_, the Rev. Mr. Adams, who sailed as Chaplain in that expedition, having employed himself actively in surveying them.

[Sidenote: 1687. Davis sails from the Galapagos to the Southward.] When the season approached for making the passage round _Cape Horne_, Davis and his company quitted their retreat. The date of their sailing is not given. Wafer relates, 'From the _Galapagos Islands_ we went again for the Southward, intending to touch no where till we came to the Island _Juan Fernandez_. In our way thither, being in the latitude of 12 deg. 30' S, and about 150 leagues from the main of _America_, about four o'clock in the morning, our ship felt a terrible shock, so sudden and violent that we took it for granted she had struck upon a rock. When the amazement was a little over, we cast the lead and sounded, but found no ground, so we concluded it must certainly be some earthquake. The sea, which ordinarily looks green, seemed then of a whitish colour; and the water which we took up in the buckets for the ship's use, we found to be a little mixed with sand. Some time after, we heard that at that very time, there was an earthquake at _Callao_, which did mischief both there and at _Lima_.'

[Sidenote: Island discovered by Edw. Davis.] 'Having recovered our fright, we kept on to the Southward. We steered SbE 1/2 Easterly, until we came to the latitude of 27 deg. 20' S, when about two hours before day, we fell in with a small low sandy Island, and heard a great roaring noise, like that of the sea beating upon the shore, right ahead of the ship. Whereupon, fearing to fall foul upon the shore before day, the ship was put about. So we plied off till day, and then stood in again with the land, which proved to be a small flat Island, without the guard of any rocks. We stood in within a quarter of a mile of the shore, and could see it plainly, for it was a clear morning. To the Westward, about twelve leagues by judgement, we saw a range of high land, which we took to be Islands, for there were several partitions in the prospect. This land seemed to reach about 14 or 16 leagues in a range, and there came thence great flocks of fowls. I, and many of our men would have made this land, and have gone ashore at it, but the Captain would not permit us. The small Island bears from _Copiapo_ almost due East [West was intended] 500 leagues, and from the _Galapagos_ under the line is distant 600 leagues[62].'

Dampier was not present at this discovery; but he met his old Commander afterwards, and relates information he received concerning it in the following words. 'Captain Davis told me lately, that after his departing from us at _Ria Lexa_, he went, after several traverses, to the _Galapagos_, and that standing thence Southward for wind to bring him about the _Tierra del Fuego_, in the latitude of 27 deg. S, about 500 leagues from _Copayapo_ on the coast of _Chili_, he saw a small sandy Island just by him; and that they saw to the Westward of it a long tract of pretty high land, tending away toward the NW out of sight[63].'

[Sidenote: Question whether Edward Davis's Land and Easter Island are the same Land, or different.] The two preceding paragraphs contain the whole which either in Wafer or Dampier is said concerning this land. The apprehension of being late in the season for the passage round _Cape Horne_ seems to have deterred Davis from making examination of his discovery. The latitude and specified distance from _Copiapo_ were particulars sufficient to direct future search; and twenty-five years afterwards, Jacob Roggewein, a Dutch navigator, guided by those marks, found land; but it being more distant from the American Continent than stated by Davis or Wafer, Roggewein claimed it as a new discovery. A more convenient place for discussing this point, which has been a lasting subject of dispute among geographers, would be in an account of Roggewein's voyage; but a few remarks here may be satisfactory.

Wafer kept neither journal nor reckoning, his profession not being that of a mariner; and from circumstances which occur in Davis's navigation to the _Atlantic_, it may reasonably be doubted whether a regular reckoning or journal was kept by any person on board; and whether the 500 leagues distance of the small Island from the American coast mentioned by Davis and Wafer, was other than a conjectured distance. They had no superior by whom a journal of their proceedings would be required or expected. If a regular journal had really been kept, it would most probably have found its way to the press.

Jacob Roggewein, the Dutch Admiral, was more than any other navigator, willing to give himself the credit of making new discoveries, as the following extracts from the Journal of his expedition will evince. 'We looked for _Hawkins's Maiden Land_, but could not find it; but we discovered an Island 200 leagues in circuit, in latitude 52 deg. S, about 200 leagues distant to the East of the coast of _South America_, which we named _Belgia Austral_.' That is as much as to say, Admiral Roggewein could not find _Hawkins's Maiden Land_; but he discovered land on the same spot, which he named _Belgia Austral_. Afterwards, proceeding in the same disposition, the Journal relates, 'We directed our course from _Juan Fernandez_ towards _Davis's Land_, but to the great astonishment of the Admiral (Roggewein) it was not seen. I think we either missed it, or that there is no such land. We went on towards the West, and on the anniversary of the Resurrection of our Saviour, we came in sight of an Island. We named it _Paaschen_ or _Oster Eylandt_ (i. e. Easter Island).'

_Paaschen_ or _Easter Island_ according to modern charts and observations, is nearly 690 leagues distant from _Copiapo_, which is in the same parallel on the Continent of _America_. The statement of Davis and Wafer makes the distance only 512 leagues, which is a difference of 178 leagues. It is not probable that Davis could have had good information of the longitudes of the _Galapagos Islands_ and _Copiapo_; but with every allowance, so large an error as 178 leagues in a run of 600 leagues might be thought incredible, if its possibility had not been demonstrated by a much greater being made by the same persons in this same homeward passage; as will be related. In the latitude and appearance of the land, the descriptions of Davis and Wafer are correct, _Easter Island_ being a mountainous land, which will make partitions in the distant prospect and appear like a number of Islands.

Roggewein's claim to _Paaschen_ or _Easter Island_ as a new discovery has had countenance and support from geographers, some of the first eminence, but has been made a subject of jealous contest, and not of impartial investigation. If Roggewein discovered an Island farther to the West of the American coast than _Davis's Land_, it must follow that Davis's land lies between his discovery and the Continent; but that part of the _South Sea_ has been so much explored, that if any high land had existed between _Easter Island_ and the American coast, it could not have escaped being known. There is not the least improbability that ships, in making a passage from the _Galapagos Isles_ through the South East trade-wind, shall come into the neighbourhood of _Easter Island_.

Edward Davis has generally been thought a native of _England_, but according to Lussan, and nothing appears to the contrary, he was a native of _Holland_. The majority of the Buccaneers in the ship, however, were British. How far to that source may be traced the disposition to refuse the Buccaneers the credit of the discovery, and how much national partialities have contributed to the dispute, may be judged from this circumstance, that _Easter Island_ being _Davis's Land_ has never been doubted by British geographers, and has been questioned only by those of other nations.

The merit of the discovery is nothing, for the Buccaneers were not in search of land, but came without design in sight of it, and would not look at what they had accidentally found. And whether the discovery is to be attributed to Edward Davis or to his crew, ought to be esteemed of little concern to the nations of which they were natives, seeing the discoverers were men outlawed, and whose acts were disowned by the governments of their countries.

Passing from considerations of claims to consideration of the fact;--there is not the smallest plea for questioning, nor has any one questioned the truth of the Buccaneers having discovered a high Island West of the American coast, in or near the latitude of 27 deg. S. If different from _Easter Island_, it must be supposed to be situated between that and the Continent. But however much it has been insisted or argued that _Easter Island_ is not _Davis's Land_, no chart has yet pretended to shew two separate Islands, one for Edward Davis's discovery, and one for Roggewein's. The one Island known has been in constant requisition for double duty; and must continue so until another Island of the same description shall be found.

[Sidenote: 1687. At the Island Juan Fernandez.] Davis arrived at _Juan Fernandez_ 'at the latter end of the year,' and careened there. Since the Buccaneers were last at the Island, the Spaniards had put dogs on shore, for the purpose of killing the goats. Many, however, found places among precipices, where the dogs could not get at them, and the Buccaneers shot as many as served for their daily consumption. Here again, five men of Davis's crew, who had gamed away their money, 'and were unwilling to return out of these seas as poor as they came in,' determined on staying at _Juan Fernandez_, to take the chance of some other buccaneer ship, or privateer, touching at the Island. A canoe, arms, ammunition, and various implements were given to them, with a stock of maize for planting, and some for their immediate subsistence; and each of these gentlemen had a negro attendant landed with him.

From _Juan Fernandez_, Davis sailed to the Islands _Mocha_ and _Santa Maria_, near the Continent, where he expected to have procured provisions, but he found both those Islands deserted and laid waste, the Spaniards having obliged the inhabitants to remove, that the Buccaneers might not obtain supply there. The season was advanced, therefore without expending more time in searching for provisions, they bent their course Southward. They passed round _Cape Horne_ without seeing land, but fell in with many Islands of ice, and ran so far Eastward before they ventured to steer a Northerly course, that afterwards, when, in the parallel of the _River de la Plata_, they steered Westward to make the American coast, which they believed to be only one hundred leagues distant, they sailed 'four hundred and fifty leagues to the West in the same latitude,' before they came in sight of land; whence many began to apprehend they were still in the _South Sea_[64], and this belief would have gained ground, if a flight of locusts had not alighted on the ship, which a strong flurry of wind had blown off from the American coast.

[Sidenote: 1688. Davis sails to the West Indies.] They arrived in the _West Indies_ in the spring of the year 1688, at a time when a proclamation had recently been issued, offering the King's pardon to all Buccaneers who would quit that way of life, and claim the benefit of the proclamation.

It was not the least of fortune's favours to this crew of Buccaneers, that they should find it in their power, without any care or forethought of their own, to terminate a long course of piratical adventures in quietness and security. Edward Davis was afterwards in _England_, as appears by the notice given of his discovery by William Dampier, who mentions him always with peculiar respect. Though a Buccaneer, he was a man of much sterling worth; being an excellent Commander, courageous, never rash, and endued in a superior degree with prudence, moderation, and steadiness; qualities in which the Buccaneers generally have been most deficient. His character is not stained with acts of cruelty; on the contrary, wherever he commanded, he restrained the ferocity of his companions. It is no small testimony of his abilities that the whole of the Buccaneers in the _South Sea_ during his time, in every enterprise wherein he bore part, voluntarily placed themselves under his guidance, and paid him obedience as their leader; and no symptom occurs of their having at any time wavered in this respect, or shewn inclination to set up a rival authority. It may almost be said, that the only matter in which they were not capricious was their confidence in his management; and in it they found their advantage, if not their preservation.

CHAP. XVIII.

_Adventures of =Swan= and =Townley= on the Coast of =New Spain=,
until their Separation._

[Sidenote: Swan and Townley.] The South Sea adventures of the buccaneer Chief Davis being brought to a conclusion, the next related will be those of Swan and his crew in the Cygnet, they being the first of the Buccaneers who after the battle in the _Bay of Panama_ left the _South Sea_. William Dampier who was in Swan's ship, kept a Journal of their proceedings, which is published, and the manuscript also has been preserved.

[Sidenote: 1685. August.] Swan and Townley, the reader may recollect, were left by Edward Davis in the harbour of _Ria Lexa_, in the latter part of August 1685, and had agreed to keep company together Westward towards the entrance of the _Gulf of California_.

[Sidenote: Bad Water, and Unhealthiness of Ria Lexa.] They remained at _Ria Lexa_ some days longer to take in fresh water, 'such as it was,' and they experienced from it the same bad effects which it had on Davis's men; for, joined to the unwholesomeness of the place, it produced a malignant fever, by which several were carried off.

[Sidenote: September. On the Coast of New Spain.] On September the 3d, they put to sea, four sail in company, i. e. the Cygnet, Townley's ship, and two tenders; the total of the crews being 340 men.

[Sidenote: Tornadoes.] The season was not favourable for getting Westward along this coast. Westerly winds were prevalent, and scarcely a day passed without one or two violent tornadoes, which were accompanied with frightful flashes of lightning, and claps of thunder, 'the like,' says Dampier, 'I did never meet with before nor since.' These tornadoes generally came out of the NE, very fierce, and did not last long. When the tornado was passed, the wind again settled Westward. On account of these storms, Swan and Townley kept a large offing; but towards the end of the month, the weather became settled. On the 24th, Townley, and 106 men in nine canoes, went on Westward, whilst the ships lay by two days with furled sails, to give them time to get well forward, by which they would come the more unexpectedly upon any place along the coast.

[Sidenote: October.] Townley proceeded, without finding harbour or inlet, to the Bay of _Tecuantepeque_, where putting ashore at a sandy beach, the canoes were all overset by the surf, one man drowned, and some muskets lost. Townley however drew the canoes up dry, and marched into the country; but notwithstanding that they had not discovered any inlet on the coast, they found the country intersected with great creeks not fordable, and were forced to return to their canoes. A body of Spaniards and Indians came to reconnoitre them, from the town of _Tecuantepeque_, to seek which place was the chief purpose of the Buccaneers when they landed. 'The Spanish books,' says Dampier, 'mention a large river there, but whether it was run away at this time, or rather that Captain Townley and his men were shortsighted, I know not; but they did not find it.'

October the 2d, the canoes returned to the ships. The wind was fresh and fair from the ENE, and they sailed Westward, keeping within short distance of the shore, but found neither harbour nor opening. They had soundings all the way, the depth being 21 fathoms, a coarse sandy bottom, at eight miles distance from the land. [Sidenote: Island Tangola.] Having run about 20 leagues along the coast, they came to a small high Island called _Tangola_, on which they found wood and water; and near it, good anchorage. 'This Island is about a league distant from the main, which is pretty high, and savannah land by the sea; but within land it is higher and woody.'---- [Sidenote: Guatulco. El Buffadore, a spouting Rock.] 'We coasted a league farther, and came to _Guatulco_, in latitude 15 deg. 30', which is one of the best ports in this Kingdom of _Mexico_. Near a mile from the mouth of the harbour, on the East side, is a little Island close by the main-land. On the West side of the mouth of the harbour, is a great hollow rock, which by the continual working of the sea in and out, makes a great noise, and may be heard a great way; every surge that comes in, forces the water out at a little hole at the top, as out of a pipe, from whence it flies out just like the blowing of a whale, to which the Spaniards liken it, and call it _El Buffadore_. Even at the calmest seasons, the beating of the sea makes the waterspout out at the hole, so that this is always a good mark to find the harbour of _Guatulco_ by. [Sidenote: The Harbour of Guatulco.] The harbour runs in NW, is about three miles deep, and one mile broad. The West side of the harbour is the best for small ships to ride in: any where else you are open to SW winds, which often blow here. There is clean ground any where, and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathoms: it is bounded by a smooth sandy shore, good for landing; and at the bottom of the harbour is a fine brook of fresh water running into the sea. The country is extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a distance[65].'

There appeared to be so few inhabitants at this part of the coast, that the Buccaneers were not afraid to land their sick. A party of men went Eastward to seek for houses and inhabitants, and at a league distance from _Guatulco_ they found a river, named by the Spaniards _El Capalita_, which had a swift current, and was deep at the entrance. They took a few Indians prisoners, but learnt nothing of the country from them. [Sidenote: Vinello, or Vanilla, a Plant.] On the 6th, Townley with 140 men marched fourteen miles inland, and in all that way found only one small Indian village, the inhabitants of which cultivated and cured a plant called _Vinello_, which grows on a vine, and is used to perfume chocolate, and sometimes tobacco.

The 10th, the canoes were sent Westward; and on the 12th, the ships followed, the crews being well recovered of the _Ria Lexa_ fever. 'The coast (from _Guatulco_) lies along West and a little Southerly for 20 or 30 leagues[66].' [Sidenote: Island Sacrificio.] On account of a current which set Eastward, they anchored near a small green Island named _Sacrificio_, about a league to the West of _Guatulco_, and half a mile from the main. In the channel between, was five or six fathoms depth, and the tide ran there very swift.

[Sidenote: Port de Angeles.] They advanced Westward; but slowly. The canoes were again overset in attempting to land near _Port de Angeles_, at a place where cattle were seen feeding, and another man was drowned. Dampier says, 'We were at this time abreast of _Port de Angeles_, but those who had gone in the canoes did not know it, because the Spaniards describe it to be as good a harbour as _Guatulco_. It is a broad open bay with two or three rocks at the West side. There is good anchorage all over the bay in depth from 30 to 12 fathoms, but you are open to all winds till you come into 12 fathoms, and then you are sheltered from the WSW, which is here the common trade-wind. Here always is a great swell, and landing is bad. The place of landing is close by the West side, behind a few rocks. Latitude 15 deg. N. The tide rises about five feet. The land round _Port de Angeles_ is pretty high, the earth sandy and yellow, in some places red.' The Buccaneers landed at _Port de Angeles_, and supplied themselves with cattle, hogs, poultry, maize, and salt; and a large party of them remained feasting three days at a farm-house. The 27th, they sailed on Westward.

Some of their canoes in seeking _Port de Angeles_ had been as far Westward as _Acapulco_. In their way back, they found a river, into which they went, and filled fresh water. Afterwards, they entered a _lagune_ or lake of salt water, where fishermen had cured, and stored up fish, of which the Buccaneers took away a quantity.

[Sidenote: Adventure in a Lagune.] On the evening of the 27th, Swan and Townley anchored in 16 fathoms depth, near a small rocky Island, six leagues Westward of _Port de Angeles_, and about half a mile distant from the main land. The next day they sailed on, and in the night of the 28th, being abreast the lagune above mentioned, a canoe manned with twelve men was sent to bring off more of the fish. The entrance into the lagune was not more than pistol-shot wide, and on each side were rocks, high enough and convenient to skreen or conceal men. The Spaniards having more expectation of this second visit than they had of the first, a party of them, provided with muskets, took station behind these rocks. They waited patiently till the canoe of the Buccaneers was fairly within the lagune, and then fired their volley, and wounded five men. The buccaneer crew were not a little surprised, yet returned the fire; but not daring to repass the narrow entrance, they rowed to the middle of the lagune, where they lay out of the reach of shot. There was no other passage out but the one by which they had entered, which besides being so narrow was a quarter of a mile in length, and it was too desperate an undertaking to attempt to repass it. Not knowing what else to do, they lay still two whole days and three nights in hopes of relief from the ships.

It was not an uncommon circumstance among the Buccaneers, for parties sent away on any particular design, to undertake some new adventure; the long absence of the canoe therefore created little surprise in the ships, which lay off at sea waiting without solicitude for her return; till Townley's ship happening to stand nearer to the shore than the rest, heard muskets fired in the lagune. He then sent a strong party in his canoes, which obliged the Spaniards to retreat from the rocks, and leave the passage free for the hitherto penned-up Buccaneers. Dampier gives the latitude of this lagune, 'about 16 deg. 40' N.'

[Sidenote: November. Alcatraz Rock. White Cliffs. River to the West of the Cliffs.] They coasted on Westward, with fair weather, and a current setting to the West. On November the 2d, they passed a rock called by the Spaniards the _Alcatraz_ (Pelican.) 'Five or six miles to the West of the rock are seven or eight white cliffs, which are remarkable, because there are none other so white and so thick together on all the coast. A dangerous shoal lies SbW from these cliffs, four or five miles off at sea. Two leagues to the West of these cliffs is a pretty large river, which forms a small Island at its mouth. The channel on the East side is shoal and sandy; the West channel is deep enough for canoes to enter.' The Spaniards had raised a breastwork on the banks of this channel, and they made a show of resisting the Buccaneers; but seeing they were determined on landing, they quitted the place; on which Dampier honestly remarks, 'One chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us, though much our superiors in number, is, their want of fire-arms; for they have but few unless near their large garrisons.'

[Sidenote: Snook, a Fish.] A large quantity of salt intended for salting the fish caught in the lagune, was taken here. Dampier says, 'The fish in these lagunes were of a kind called Snooks, which are neither sea-fish nor fresh-water fish; it is about a foot long, round, and as thick as the small of a man's leg, has a pretty long head, whitish scales, and is good meat.'

[Sidenote: November 7th. High Land of Acapulco.] A Mulatto whom they took prisoner told them that a ship of twenty guns had lately arrived at _Acapulco_ from _Lima_. Townley and his crew had long been dissatisfied with their ship; and in hopes of getting a better, they stood towards the harbour of _Acapulco_. On the 7th, they made the high land over _Acapulco_, 'which is remarkable by a round hill standing between two other hills, both higher, the Westernmost of which is the biggest and the highest, and has two hillocks like two paps at the top.' Dampier gives the latitude of _Acapulco_ 17 deg. N[67].

This was not near the usual time either of the departure or of the arrival of the Manila ships, and except at those times, _Acapulco_ is almost deserted on account of the situation being unhealthy. _Acapulco_ is described hot, unwholesome, pestered with gnats, and having nothing good but the harbour. Merchants depart from it as soon as they have transacted their business. Townley accordingly expected to bring off the _Lima_ ship quietly, and with little trouble. In the evening of the 7th, the ships being then so far from land that they could not be descried, Townley with 140 men departed in twelve canoes for the harbour of _Acapulco_. They did not reach _Port Marques_ till the second night; and on the third night they rowed softly and unperceived by the Spaniards into _Acapulco Harbour_. They found the _Lima_ ship moored close to the castle, and, after reconnoitring, thought it would not be in their power to bring her off; so they paddled back quietly out of the harbour, and returned to their ships, tired and disappointed.

[Sidenote: Sandy Beach, West of Acapulco. Hill of Petaplan.] Westward from the Port of _Acapulco_, they passed a sandy bay or beach above twenty leagues in length, the sea all the way beating with such force on the shore that a boat could not approach with safety. 'There was clean anchoring ground at a mile or two from the shore. At the West end of this Bay, in 17 deg. 30' N, is the Hill of _Petaplan_, which is a round point stretching out into the sea, and at a distance seems an Island[68].' This was reckoned twenty-five leagues from _Acapulco_. A little to the West of the hill are several round white rocks. They sailed within the rocks, having 11 fathoms depth, and anchored on the NW side of the hill. Their Mosquito men took here some small turtle and small jew-fish.

They landed, and at an Indian village took a Mulatto woman and her children, whom they carried on board. They learnt from her that a caravan drawn by mules was going with flour and other goods to _Acapulco_, but that the carrier had stopped on the road from apprehension of the Buccaneers.

[Sidenote: Chequetan.] The ships weighed their anchors, and ran about two leagues farther Westward, to a place called _Chequetan_, which Dampier thus describes: 'A mile and a half from the shore is a small Key (or Island) and within it is a very good harbour, where ships may careen: here is also a small river of fresh water, and wood enough.'

[Sidenote: 14th. Estapa.] On the 14th, in the morning, about a hundred Buccaneers set off in search of the carrier, taking the woman prisoner for a guide. They landed a league to the West of _Chequetan_, at a place called _Estapa_, and their conductress led them through a wood, by the side of a river, about a league, which brought them to a savannah full of cattle; and here at a farm-house the carrier and his mules were lodged. He had 40 packs of flour, some chocolate, small cheeses, and earthenware. The eatables, with the addition of eighteen beeves which they killed, the Buccaneers laid on the backs of above fifty mules which were at hand, and drove them to their boats. A present of clothes was made to the woman, and she, with two of her children, were set at liberty; but the other child, a boy seven or eight years old, Swan kept, against the earnest intreaties of the mother. Dampier says, 'Captain Swan promised her to make much of him, and was as good as his word. He proved afterwards a fine boy for wit, courage, and dexterity.'

[Sidenote: 21st. Hill of Thelupan.] They proceeded Westward along the coast, which was high land full of ragged hills, but with pleasant and fruitful vallies between. The 25th, they were abreast a hill, 'which towered above his fellows, and was divided in the top, making two small parts. It is in latitude 18 deg. 8' N. The Spaniards mention a town called _Thelupan_ near this hill.'

The 26th, the Captains Swan and Townley went in the canoes with 200 men, to seek the city of _Colima_, which was reported to be a rich place: but their search was fruitless. They rowed 20 leagues along shore, and found no good place for landing; neither did they see house or inhabitant, although they passed by a fine valley, called the _Valley of Maguella_, except that towards the end of their expedition, they saw a horseman, who they supposed had been stationed as a sentinel, for he rode off immediately on their appearance. They landed with difficulty, and followed the track of the horse on the sand, but lost it in the woods.

[Sidenote: 28th. Volcano of Colima. Valley of Colima.] On the 28th, they saw the Volcano of _Colima_, which is in about 18 deg. 36' N latitude, five or six leagues from the sea, and appears with two sharp points, from each of which issued flames or smoke. The _Valley of Colima_ is ten or twelve leagues wide by the sea: it abounds in cacao-gardens, fields of corn, and plantain walks. The coast is a sandy shore, on which the waves beat with violence. Eastward of the Valley the land is woody. A river ran here into the sea, with a shoal or bar at its entrance, which boats could not pass. On the West side of the river was savannah land.

[Sidenote: December. Salagua.] December the 1st, they were near the Port of _Salagua_, which Dampier reckoned in latitude 18 deg. 52' N. He says, 'it is only a pretty deep bay, divided in the middle with a rocky point, which makes, as it were, two harbours[69]. Ships may ride secure in either, but the West harbour is the best: the depth of water is 10 or 12 fathom, and a brook of fresh water runs into the sea there.'

[Sidenote: Report of a great City named Oarrah.] Two hundred Buccaneers landed at _Salagua_, and finding a broad road which led inland, they followed it about four leagues, over a dry stony country, much overgrown with short wood, without seeing habitation or inhabitant; but in their return, they met and took prisoners two Mulattoes, who informed them that the road they had been travelling led to a great city called _Oarrah_, which was distant as far as a horse will travel in four days; and that there was no place of consequence nearer. The same prisoner said the _Manila_ ship was daily expected to stop at this part of the coast to land passengers; for that the arrival of the ships at _Acapulco_ from the _Philippines_ commonly happened about Christmas, and scarcely ever more than eight or ten days before or after.

Swan and Townley sailed on for Cape _Corrientes_. Many among the crews were at this time taken ill with a fever and ague, which left the patients dropsical. Dampier says, the dropsy is a disease very common on this coast. He was one of the sufferers, and continued ill a long time; and several died of it.

[Sidenote: The Land near Cape Corrientes. Coronada Hills. Cape Corrientes.] The coast Southward of _Cape Corrientes_, is of moderate height, and full of white cliffs. The inland country is high and barren, with sharp peaked hills. Northward of this rugged land, is a chain of mountains which terminates Eastward with a high steep mountain, which has three sharp peaks and resembles a crown; and is therefore called by the Spaniards _Coronada_. On the 11th they came in sight of _Cape Corrientes_. When the _Cape_ bore NbW, the _Coronada_ mountain bore ENE[70].

On arriving off _Cape Corrientes_, the buccaneer vessels spread, for the advantage of enlarging their lookout, the Cygnet taking the outer station at about ten leagues distance from the _Cape_. Provisions however soon became scarce, on which account Townley's tender and some of the canoes were sent to the land to seek a supply. The canoes rowed up along shore against a Northerly wind to the _Bay de Vanderas_; but the bark could not get round _Cape Corrientes_. [Sidenote: 18th.] On the 18th, Townley complained he wanted fresh water, whereupon the ships quitted their station near the Cape, and sailed to some small Islands called the _Keys of Chametly_, which are situated to the SE of _Cape Corrientes_, to take in fresh water.

The descriptions of the coast of _New Spain_ given by Dampier, in his account of his voyage with the Buccaneers, contain many particulars of importance which are not to be found in any other publication. Dampier's manuscript and the printed Narrative frequently differ, and it is sometimes apparent that the difference is not the effect of inadvertence, or mistake in the press, but that it was intended as a correction from a reconsideration of the subject. [Sidenote: Keys or Islands of Chametly.] The printed Narrative says at this part, 'These _Keys_ or _Islands_ of _Chametly_ are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eastward of _Cape Corrientes_. They are small, low, woody, and environed with rocks. There are five of them lying in the form of a half moon, not a mile from the shore of the main, and between them and the main land is very good riding secure from any wind[71].' In the manuscript it is said, 'the Islands _Chametly_ make a secure port. They lie eight or nine leagues from _Port Navidad_.'

It is necessary to explain that Dampier, in describing his navigation along the coast of _New Spain_, uses the terms Eastward and Westward, not according to the precise meaning of the words, but to signify being more or less advanced along the coast from the _Bay of Panama_. By Westward, he invariably means more advanced towards the _Gulf of California_; by Eastward, the contrary.

[Sidenote: Form a convenient Port.] The ships entered within the _Chametly Islands_ by the channel at the SE end, and anchored in five fathoms depth, on a bottom of clean sand. They found there good fresh water and wood, and caught plenty of rock-fish with hook and line. No inhabitants were seen, but there were huts, made for the temporary convenience of fishermen who occasionally went there to fish for the inhabitants of the city of _La Purificacion_. These Islands, forming a commodious port affording fresh water and other conveniencies, from the smallness of their size are not made visible in the Spanish charts of the coast of _New Spain_ in present use[72]. Whilst the ships watered at the _Keys_ or _Isles of Chametly_, a party was sent to forage on the main land, whence they carried off about 40 bushels of maize.

On the 22d, they left the _Keys of Chametly_, and returned to their cruising station off _Cape Corrientes_, where they were rejoined by the canoes which had been to the _Bay de Vanderas_. Thirty-seven men had landed there from the canoes, who went three miles into the country, where they encountered a body of Spaniards, consisting both of horse and foot. The Buccaneers took benefit of a small wood for shelter against the attack of the horse, yet the Spaniards rode in among them; but the Spanish Captain and some of their foremost men being killed, the rest retreated. Four of the Buccaneers were killed, and two desperately wounded. The Spanish infantry were more numerous than the horse, but they did not join in the attack, because they were armed only with lances and swords; 'nevertheless,' says Dampier, 'if they had come in, they would certainly have destroyed all our men.' The Buccaneers conveyed their two wounded men to the water side on horses, one of which, when they arrived at their canoes, they killed and drest; not daring to venture into the savannah for a bullock, though they saw many grazing.

[Sidenote: 1686. January. Bay de Vanderas.] Swan and Townley preserved their station off _Cape Corrientes_ only till the 1st of January, 1686, when their crews became impatient for fresh meat, and they stood into the _Bay de Vanderas_, to hunt for beef. The depth of water in this Bay is very great, and the ships were obliged to anchor in 60 fathoms.

[Sidenote: Valley of Vanderas.] 'The _Valley of Vanderas_ is about three leagues wide, with a sandy bay against the sea, and smooth landing. In the midst of this bay (or beach) is a fine river, into which boats may enter; but it is brackish at the latter part of the dry season, which is in March, and part of April. The Valley is enriched with fruitful savannahs, mixed with groves of trees fit for any use; and fruit-trees grow wild in such plenty as if nature designed this place only for a garden. The savannahs are full of fat bulls and cows, and horses; but no house was in sight.'

Here they remained hunting beeves, till the 7th of the month. Two hundred and forty men landed every day, sixty of whom were stationed as a guard, whilst the rest pursued the cattle; the Spaniards all the time appearing in large companies on the nearest hills. The Buccaneers killed and salted meat sufficient to serve them two months, which expended all their salt. Whilst they were thus occupied in the pleasant valley of _Vanderas_, the galeon from _Manila_ sailed past _Cape Corrientes_, and pursued her course in safety to _Acapulco_. This they learnt afterwards from prisoners; but it was by no means unexpected: on the contrary, they were in general so fully persuaded it would be the consequence of their going into the _Bay de Vanderas_, that they gave up all intention of cruising for her afterwards.

[Sidenote: Swan and Townley part company.] The main object for which Townley had gone thus far Northward being disposed of, he and his crew resolved to return Southward. Some Darien Indians had remained to this time with Swan: they were now committed to the care of Townley, and the two ships broke off consortship, and parted company.

CHAP. XIX.

_The =Cygnet= and her Crew on the Coast of =Nueva Galicia=, and
at the =Tres Marias Islands=._

[Sidenote: 1686. January. Coast of Nuevo Galicia.] Swan and his crew determined before they quitted the American coast, to visit some Spanish towns farther North, in the neighbourhood of rich mines, where they hoped to find good plunder, and to increase their stock of provisions for the passage across the _Pacific_ to _India_.

[Sidenote: Point Ponteque.] January the 7th, the Cygnet and her tender sailed from the _Valley of Vanderas_, and before night, passed _Point Ponteque_, the Northern point of the _Vanderas Bay_. _Point Ponteque_ is high, round, rocky, and barren: at a distance it makes like an Island. Dampier reckoned it 10 leagues distant, in a direction N 20 deg. W, from _Cape Corrientes_; the variation of the compass observed near the _Cape_ being 4 deg. 28' Easterly[73].

A league West from _Point Ponteque_ are two small barren Islands, round which lie scattered several high, sharp, white rocks. The Cygnet passed on the East side of the two Islands, the channel between them and _Point Ponteque_ appearing clear of danger. 'The sea-coast beyond _Point Ponteque_ runs in NE, all ragged land, and afterwards out again NNW, making many ragged points, with small sandy bays between. The land by the sea is low and woody; but the inland country is full of high, sharp, rugged, and barren hills.'

Along this coast they had light sea and land breezes, and fair weather. They anchored every evening, and got under sail in the morning with the land-wind. [Sidenote: January 14th. White Rock, 21 deg. 51' N.] On the 14th, they had sight of a small white rock, which had resemblance to a ship under sail. Dampier gives its latitude 21 deg. 51' N, and its distance from _Cape Corrientes_ 34 leagues. It is three leagues from the main, with depth in the channel, near the Island, twelve or fourteen fathoms.

[Sidenote: 15th. 16th.] The 15th, at noon, the latitude was 22 deg. 11' N. The coast here lay in a NNW direction. The 16th, they steered 'NNW as the land runs.' At noon the latitude was 22 deg. 41' N. The coast was sandy and shelving, with soundings at six fathoms depth a league distant. The sea set heavy on the shore. They caught here many cat-fish.

[Sidenote: 20th. Chametlan Isles, 23 deg. 11' N.] On the 20th, they anchored a league to the East of a small groupe of Isles, named the _Chametlan Isles_, after the name of the District or Captainship (_Alcaldia mayor_) in the province of _Culiacan_, opposite to which they are situated. Dampier calls them the _Isles of Chametly_, 'different from the _Isles_ or _Keys of Chametly_ at which we had before anchored. These are six small Islands in latitude 23 deg. 11' N, about three leagues distant from the main-land[74], where a salt lake has its outlet into the sea. Their meridian distance from _Cape Corrientes_ is 23 leagues [West.] The coast here, and for about ten leagues before coming abreast these Islands, lies NW and SE.'

[Sidenote: The Penguin Fruit.] On the _Chametlan Isles_ they found guanoes, and seals; and a fruit of a sharp pleasant taste, by Dampier called the Penguin fruit, 'of a kind which grows so abundantly in the _Bay of Campeachy_ that there is no passing for their high prickly leaves.'

[Sidenote: Rio de Sal, and Salt-water Lagune, 23 deg. 30' N.] In the main-land, six or seven leagues NNW from the _Isles of Chametlan_, is a narrow opening into a _lagune_, with depth of water sufficient for boats to enter. This _lagune_ extends along the back of the sea-beach about 12 leagues, and makes many low Mangrove Islands. The latitude given of the entrance above-mentioned is 23 deg. 30' N, and it is called by the Spaniards _Rio de Sal_.

Half a degree Northward of _Rio de Sal_ was said to be the River _Culiacan_, with a rich Spanish town of the same name. Swan went with the canoes in search of it, and followed the coast 30 leagues from abreast the _Chametlan Isles_, without finding any river to the North of the _Rio de Sal_. All the coast was low and sandy, and the sea beat high on the shore. [Sidenote: 30th.] The ships did not go farther within the _Gulf_ than to 23 deg. 45' N, in which latitude, on the 30th, they anchored in eight fathoms depth, three miles distant from the main-land; the meridian distance from _Cape Corrientes_ being 34 leagues West, by Dampier's reckoning.

[Sidenote: The Mexican, a copious Language.] In their return Southward, Swan with the canoes, entered the _Rio de Sal Lagune_, and at an _estancian_ on the Western side, they took the owner prisoner. They found in his house a few bushels of maize; but the cattle had been driven out of their reach. Dampier relates, 'The old Spanish gentleman who was taken at the _Estancian_ near the _Rio de Sal_ was a very intelligent person. He had been a great traveller in the kingdom of _Mexico_, and spoke the Mexican language very well. He said it is a copious language, and much esteemed by the Spanish gentry in those parts, and of great use all over the kingdom; and that many Indian languages had some dependency on it.'