Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber's Note:
1) Page 91 contains a footnote, however there is no associated
marker. The footnote has been left in place, with a note to
this effect.
2) A letter following ^ is superscripted. Where more than one
letter is superscripted, each is preceded by the ^ symbol.
3) [.A] = dot above A [h.] = dot below h [=a] = macron above a
4) [Symbol: cross pattée] (also known as a "cross pattee",
"cross patty", "cross formée" or "cross formy" or in German
"Tatzenkreuz") is a type of cross that has arms which are narrow
at the center, and broader at the perimeter. The name comes from
the fact that the shape of each arm of the cross was thought to
resemble a paw (French patte).

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JEWELLERY

BY H. CLIFFORD SMITH, M.A.

NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS LONDON: METHUEN & CO. 1908

CONTENTS

PAGE LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, ix PREFACE, xxxiii INTRODUCTION, xxxvii

EARLY JEWELLERY

CHAPTER I. EGYPTIAN JEWELLERY, 1
PHOENICIAN JEWELLERY, 7

" II. GREEK JEWELLERY, 11

" III. ETRUSCAN JEWELLERY, 20

" IV. ROMAN JEWELLERY, 27

" V. BYZANTINE JEWELLERY, 33

" VI. PREHISTORIC (CELTIC) JEWELLERY, 39
ROMANO-BRITISH JEWELLERY, 44

" VII. THE BARBARIC JEWELLERY OF EUROPE
(THE GREAT MIGRATIONS), 49

" VIII. ANGLO-SAXON JEWELLERY
(FIFTH TO SEVENTH CENTURIES),
MEROVINGIAN JEWELLERY, 56

" IX. LATE ANGLO-SAXON JEWELLERY
(SEVENTH TO NINTH CENTURIES), 65

" X. THE CELTIC BROOCH, 75

THE JEWELLERY OF THE MIDDLE AGES (TENTH TO FIFTEENTH CENTURIES)

CHAPTER XI. MEDIÆVAL JEWELLERY
(INTRODUCTION), 80

" XII. MEDIÆVAL ENGLAND, 91

" XIII. THE MYSTERY OF PRECIOUS STONES, 99

" XIV. HEAD-ORNAMENTS, 105
NECKLACES, 113

" XV. PENDANTS, ROSARIES, AND POMANDERS, 118

" XVI. BROOCHES--THE RING-BROOCH, 127

" XVII. BROOCHES (_contd._)--PECTORALS, 135

" XVIII. RINGS AND BRACELETS, 147

" XIX. BELTS AND GIRDLES, 159

RENAISSANCE JEWELLERY

CHAPTER XX. ITALY, FIFTEENTH CENTURY, 166

" XXI. SIXTEENTH-CENTURY JEWELLERY (GENERAL), 177
" ITALY, SIXTEENTH CENTURY, 183

" XXII. GERMANY, THE LOW COUNTRIES, HUNGARY, 187

" XXIII. FRANCE--SPAIN, 199

" XXIV. ENGLAND (HENRY VIII--ELIZABETH), 206

" XXV. HEAD-ORNAMENTS, ENSEIGNES,
AIGRETTES, HAIR-PINS, EARRINGS, 222

" XXVI. NECKLACES, NECK-CHAINS, AND COLLARS, 236

" XXVII. NECK-PENDANTS, 242

" XXIX. GIRDLES AND GIRDLE PENDANTS
(MIRRORS, BOOKS, WATCHES,
SCENT-CASES, AND POMANDERS), 270

LATER AND MODERN JEWELLERY