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Chapter XXXVII: Memento Mori (2)

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_Façon d'Angleterre_, 162
Fahrner, T., 339
Faience, Egyptian, 2, 7
Falize, Lucien, 335
Falkland, Viscount, 295
Fane, Sir S. Ponsonby, 322
Fans, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272
Fashion, influence on jewellery, 28, 80, 178, 370
_Fausse montre_, 324
Faversham, 57
Fay, J. B., 312, 317
Feathers, jewelled, as aigrettes, 17 cent., 231
Feather jewel for hats, English, 17 cent., 300
Fedeli, Ercole, 158
Feder, von, 190
Federigo of Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino, 171
"Felicini" altar-piece, 170
Felicini, Bartolomeo, 170
Felspar, green, 3
Fenwolf, Morgan, 208
Ferdinand of Tirol, Archduke, 188
Ferenzuola, Giovanni da, 185
_Fermail_, 93, 128, 131, 137, 141
_Fermailleurs_, 131
_Ferronnière_, 172, 328
Fessey, J., 310
Fibulæ, xlii, xliii, 127
" Anglo-Saxon, 59, 127
" Byzantine, 34
" Etruscan, 24
" Roman, xlii
" Romano-British, xlii, 46
" "spectacle," xlii
" _See also_ Brooches
Field of Cloth of Gold, 207, 237
Filigree, 19
" Byzantine, 35
" " influence in Europe, 35
" Etruscan, 24
" gold, in Portuguese jewellery, 347
" gold, in 17 cent. memorial jewellery, 368
" Greek, 13, 16
" in Jewish wedding rings, 262
" silver, in German peasant jewellery, 346
Fillets, xxxix
" Etruscan, 23
" medl., 105
" Phoenician, 9
" Roman, 28
Finger rings. _See_ Rings
_Finger-ring Lore_, 296
Finiguerra, Tommaso (Maso), 168
Firens, P., 293
_Firmacula_, 92, 138
Fisher, Alexander, 339
Fitzhardinge, Lord, 73, 274
Flach, Thomas, 310
Flanders, influence of, in 15 cent., 142
Fleece, Golden, 24
" " Order of, 90
Flemish-Burgundian jewellery, 143-6, 213
Flemish brooches, 15 cent., 146
" paintings, jewellery in, 89-90
" peasant jewellery, 345
" Renaiss. " 196, 197
Fleurs-de-lis, 93, 106
Florence, 167
" Bargello. _See_ Museo Nazionale
" Cathedral, 175
" Museo Nazionale (Bargello), 130
" Museo Nazionale (Bargello), Carrand collection, 145
" Pitti Gallery, 170, 233, 294
" Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova, 114
" Uffizi Gallery, 114, 117, 144, 168, 172, 264, 286, 294
" Uffizi Gallery, Galleria delle Gemme, 228 n.
" 15 cent. jewellery, 174
Flötner, Peter, 193
_Flower_, pendant called, 210, 217
Flowers, natural, designs in jewellery, 283, 285-9
Fob-pocket, 298, 323, 324, 332
Foil, gold, Anglo-Saxon, 60
Foils for precious stones, 60-63, 180, 260, 351, 355, 356
Fontenay, E., 4, 48, 72, 320, 335
Fontevraud, 141
Foppa Ambrogio, called Caradosso, 168
Forgeries, 313, 355-62
Fornarina, 233
Fortnum collection. _See_ Oxford, Ashmolean Museum
Foulc, E., 263
Fouquet, Georges, 338
Foy, René, 338
Foy, St., 112, 136, 137
Foyle, Lough, 43
France, barbaric jewellery, 56
" medl. jewellery, 88
" peasant jewellery, 342, 343
" Renaiss. jewellery, 199-201
" 17 cent. jewellery, 276
" 18 " " 309
" 19 " " 325
Francesca, Piero della, 171
Francia, F., 169, 170, 210
Francis I, K. of France, 172, 181, 199, 200, 208, 227
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 195
" Rothschild collection, 197
" Städel Institute, 233
Franks, the, 56
Franks, Sir A. W., 72, 185
" " _See also_ London, British Museum, Franks Bequest
Frauds, 355-62
Freeman, John, 208
Friessler, L., 339
Fritillaries, painted on enamel, 287
Froment-Meurice, 331
Frontlets, Egyptian, 3
" Greek, 16
" 19 cent., 328
Fruit-shaped pendants, medl., 125
Frye, Thomas, 317
Fugger family, 188
" Jacob, 210
Fuller-Eliott-Drake. _See_ Drake
Fuseli, H., 312

Gaillard, Lucien, 338
Gallo-Roman jewellery, 46
Garlande, Jean de, 131
Garnets, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57, 58, 60, 61, 63, 67
" in barbaric jewellery, 49, 53
" in mourning jewellery, 370
" in Swiss peasant jewellery, 346
Garter, Order of, 254
" " pendent "George" of, 302
Gaudees (gauds), 124, 125
Gaskin, Arthur, 339
Gaul, 50
" invasion of by Teutonic races, 56
Gaveston, Piers, 67, 93
Geiss, 330
Gems, engraved, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154
" " in enseignes, 16 cent., 227
" " in girdles, 271
" " in pendants, 16 cent., 245
" " in pendants, 17 cent., 291, 292
" " 19 cent., 326-31
" sewn on dress, Byzantine, 34
" _See also_ Engraved gems
George, St., enseigne of, 224, 225
"George," of the Order of Garter, 302
George III, K. of England, 313
_Genista_, 110
Gérard, F., Baron, 329
Gerini, Casa, 350
Germanic tribes, 50
Germany, peasant jewellery, 346
" 16 cent., jewellery, 187-96
" 17 cent., jewellery, 276
Gheeraerts, Marc, 352
Ghemert, H., van, 284
Ghent, 89
" altar piece by the Van Eycks, at, 106
Ghiberti, Lorenzo, 168, 210
Ghirlandaio, Domenico del, 169, 170, 210, 263
" Ridolfo del, 170
_Ghirlande_, 169
Gibbons, Grinling, 287
Gibbs Bequest. _See_ London, British Museum
_Gigates_, 47
Giovio, Paolo, 260
_Gipcière_, 165
" _beams_, 165
Giraldus Cambrensis, 109
_Girandole_, 317, 318
Girdle, medl., in picture, 156
" -buckle, xlv, xlvi, 159, 160
" " design by Aldegrever, 194
" " " de Bry, 196
" " " Dürer, 190
" -buckles, 18 cent., 322
" -hangers, Anglo-Saxon, 63
Girdlers' Company of London. _See_ London
Girdles, xlv, xlvi
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" Greek, 18
" medl., 159-65
" " England, 93, 94
" Renaiss., 270-2
" 17 cent., 296-7
" 19 cent., 329
Giuliano, Carlo, 22, 334, 359
Giustinian, S., 206
Glass, armlets, Romano-British, 47
" beads, Phoenician, 10
" " Roman, 29
" " Romano-British, 45
" diamond rings for writing on, 260
" Egyptian, 3, 6
" millefiori, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
" millefiori, in Romano-British jewellery, 46
" painted, in jewellery, "verre églomisé," 203-4
" paste, 1, 49, 52
Glastonbury, 67
Glenlyon brooch, 111, 132
Glockendon missal, 175
Glomy, 203
_Glossopetræ_, 122, 123, 156
Gloves, rings worn over, 149, 259
" slashing of, 259, 265
Gmünd, 339
_Gnadenmedaillen_, 248
Gnauth, 339
Gnostics, 101
Godberta, St., 155, 263
Godstow Priory ring, 150
Golconda, 278, 351
Gold, coloured, 311, 328
" imitation, 358, 359
Golden Fleece, 14
" " collar of, 90
" Hind, 253
"Goldshine," 316
Goldsmiths of Paris, medl., 134
" Company of London. _See_ London
" workshops, interiors of, 98, 155, 156, 158, 176, 201
Gondola, pendent jewel, in form of, 197, 247
Gonzaga, Elizabeth, Duchess of Urbino. _See_ Elizabeth
Gorget, from Petrossa, 52
Gorgets, ancient Irish, 42
Göss, 339
Gothic ornament, appearance of, 86
" nations, 49, 50
" revival, 19 cent., 331
" style, 19 cent., 332
Græco-Phoenician jewellery, 8
Graff, C., 339
_Grains de chapelet_, 125
Granulated gold, 327, 333
Granulation, Byzantine, 35
" Etruscan, 21, 24
" Greek, 12, 13
" Phoenician, 8
Granson, battle of, 210
Greek jewellery, 8, 11-19
" Islands, peasant jewellery, 246, 346
Green, J. R. (quoted), 66
Gregory XVI, Pope, 22
Gresham, Sir T., 237
Grey, Lady Jane, 254
Gribelin, Simon, 310
Grien, Hans Baldung, 189, 261
Grimani Breviary, 175
Grondoni, G. B., 309, 310
Guarrazar, 50, 53
Guay, J., 320
Guien, J., 310, 317
Guilds, goldsmiths', 134
" " rules against forgery, 356, 358, 359
_Guilloché_ gold, 312
Gurschner, G., 339
_Gypcière_, 94

Habsburg, family, 294
Hadaway, Mrs., 339
Hailler, D., 284
Hair, jewellery of, 368-70
" " 19 cent., 331
" ornaments for the, medl., 114
" " " Renaiss., 223
" " " 17 cent., 291
" " " 18 " 316
Hair-pins, xl, xli
" Anglo-Saxon, 57
" Etruscan, 23
" German peasant, 346
" Greek, 17
" Renaiss., 232-3
" Roman, 28
" Romano-British, 45
" 18 cent., 316
" 19 " 328
Hall, Bishop, 259
" Edward, 207, 211, 224
Hals, Agnes, 366
" Frans, 296, 362
Hamilton brooch, 70
" Palace collection, 303
Hammer, 339
Hampton Court Gallery, 245
Hanau, 339
Hannibal, 32
Hans of Antwerp, 208, 213
Harlay, family, 266
Haroun al-Raschid, 84, 118
Harrogate diamonds, 357
Harvey, Gabriel, 261
Hastings, Lord, 46
Hat-badges. _See_ Enseignes
" bands, jewelled, 224, 230
" ornaments, medl., 109
Hats, jewelled, medl., 107
" jewels on, English, 17 cent., 300, 301
" rings worn on, 261
Hauer, J. P., 287
Hauptmann, Franz, 339
Hays, Cornelius, 208
Head-appendages, Greek, 16
" dresses, Roman, 28
" ornaments, xxxix
" " Dutch, 344
" " ancient Irish, 42
" " Italian, 15 cent., 171, 172
" " medl., 105-12
" " Renaiss., 232
" " 18 cent., 316
" " 19 " 328
Hearts, peasant jewels in form of, 342-5
Hecke, van den. _See_ Van den Hecke
Heel, Johann, 309
Heeley, 319
Heem, Jan de. _See_ De Heem
Hefner-Alteneck, J. H. von, 195
Hendrickje Stoffels, 191
_Henin_, 107
Henlein, Peter, 274
Henrietta Maria, Q. of England, earrings of, 354
Henry I, K. of England, 92
" II " 141
" III " 92, 141, 151
" IV " 95, 115, 116, 140, 142, 162, 164
" V " 95, 110
" VI " 115
" VII " 216, 219
" VIII " 199, 206-13, 219, 224, 225, 226, 237, 238,
250, 252, 258, 263, 265, 267, 268, 269
" II, K. of France, 200, 365
" III " 200, 234
" IV " 314, 320
" K. of Castile, 109
" Prince of Wales, son of James I, 302-3
Hentzner, Paul, 214
Hera, 19
Herbals, precious stones in, 100 n.
Heraclius, Emperor, 59
Herbst, J. B., 310
Herculaneum, 29
" discovery of, 311
Herculean knot, rings shaped like, 32
Heriot, George, 268, 273, 300, 301, 304
" James, 210, 304
Heriot's Hospital, 301
Hermitage Museum. _See_ St. Petersburg
Herodotus, 363
Herrick, Nicolas, 220
" Robert, 220, 302
" Sir William, 220, 301, 302
Heyl, Baron von, 136
Highland brooches, 131-3
Hilary, St., 104
" " jewel of, 103, 136
Hilliard, Nicholas, 219, 253, 255
Hipkins, W. and Co., 315
Hirzel, H. R. C., 338
Hispano-Moresque jewellery, 205
Hissarlik, 9
Holbein, Hans, the younger, 190, 210-13, 224, 243, 252,
273, 351, 352, 363, 365
Holford, Major, 288
Holinshed, R., 207, 235
Holland, peasant jewellery, 344-5
Hollar, W., 190, 275
Holtzendorff treasure, 267
" family, 238
Holy Land, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86
Holyrood, 115
Homer, 19
Honervogt, J., 282
Honyson, Guillim, 208
Hooks and loops, medl., 140
" " eyes, Renaiss., 268
Hoop (of ring), xlv
Hornick, Erasmus, 193, 194, 251
Horus, 2
Huaud or Huault, 298
Hungary, 16 cent. jewellery, 197-8
" peasant jewellery, 347
Hunsdon, George Carey, Lord, 218, 265
" Henry Carey, Lord, 218, 253, 274
" jewels, 93, 218, 253, 274
Hunterston brooch, 79
Hurtu, J., 285
Hyderabad, 278

Ialysos, 12
Iconoclastic decrees, 34
_Iklyngton Coler_, 115
Ilchester, Earl of, 366
Il Rosso. _See_ Rosso
_Impresa_, 223
Imitation diamonds, 313-14
" gold, 358, 359
" pearls, 314
" precious stones, 18 cent., 313
Imitations, 355-62
Incrustation (or inlay), process of, 49-55
Initials, jewelled, Renaiss., on garments, 268
" jewels in form of, 211-12
" pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248
Inlaid jewellery, 35, 49-55
" " Anglo-Saxon, 60
Innocent III, Pope, 96, 148

Intaglio cutting on gold, Greek, 13
" medl., 138
Intaglios, antique, in medl. jewellery, 102
" Renaiss., 227
" Roman, 30
" 19 cent., 326
Inventories, jewellery in, 82, 88-9, 92-6, 142, 215, 258, 263, 353
Ionia, 22
Ipsamboul (Abu Simbel), 4
Ireland, cloisonné enamel, 66
" introduction of Christianity into, 75
" prehistoric ornaments in, 40-4
Irish missionaries, their influence on Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 66, 67
Iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330, 331
" prehistoric, 39
Isabella d'Este, Marchioness of Mantua, 158
" of France, Q. of England, 114
Italian jewellery, 15 cent., 166-76
" " 16 " 183-6
" peasant jewellery, 334, 346

Jacobson, Philip, 302, 304
James I, K. of England, 210, 230, 231, 235, 238, 257, 268, 299, 300-4
" II " 119
" St., of Compostella, 109
Jane Seymour, Q. of England, 212
Janssens, C., 352
Jaquin, 314
Jet jewellery, 48
" medl., 124
" mourning jewellery, 370
" Romano-British, 45, 47
Jewish wedding rings. _See_ Rings
"Jingling Geordie," 301
_Joaillerie_, 277
_Joailliers-faussetiers_, corporation of, 314
Joanna of Navarre, Q. of England, 141
_Jocalia_, 92, 138
John Anwarpe. _See_ Hans of Antwerp
" of Cambridge, 106
" the Constant, Elector of Saxony, 261
" Frederick, Elector of Saxony, 261
" of Leyden, 250
" St., Baptist, head of, 226, 227 n.
" " Evangelist, 36, 99, 103
" King of England, 92, 96
" II, King of France, 88
Jones, W., 296
Jonson, Ben, 151
Jörg, A., 284
Josephine, Empress, 29, 329-30
Juliers, William, Duke of. _See_ William
Jupiter, cameo of, considered to represent St. John, 103
" Capitolinus, temple of, 32
Justinian, Emperor, 33, 34
Jutes, 56, 59

K., P. R., 280, 284
Kameiros, 12
Kann collection, 169
Karlsruhe, 190
Kaufmann collection, 263
Kayle, Hugh, 220
Kensington (South) Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Kent, 60
Kentish cemeteries, 56, 57, 63
Kertch, 14, 16
" forged jewels, said to come from, 360
Kh[=a]-em-uas, 5
Khepera, 2
Kilbride, West, 79
Kilmainham brooch, 77
Kimmeridge shale, 47
King, C. W. (quoted), 100
Kings of the East, Three, 102, 111, 129, 132, 150, 152
Kingston brooch, 60
" -on-Thames, 142
_Klein-Meister_, 191-4
Kneller, Sir G., 353
Knives, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272
Knotwork, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57
Koul-Oba, 14
Kraft, Adam, 120
_Kreuterbuch_, 100 n., 126

Labarre, P., 282
Laborde, L. de, 277
Laffitte, Gaston, 338
Lalique, René, 338
Lang, Andrew, 221, 353
Lange, Jehan, 208, 209
Latten, 161
La Quewellerie, G. de, 284, 295
Lannoy, Baldwin de, 90
" Raoul de, 116
Lapis-lazuli, 2, 136
Lark Hill, near Worcester, 154
Latium, 24
Laton, 161
Lauingen, 230, 232
Laverstoke, 72
Law, Thomas and Co., 315
"Lazos," 204, 294
Lead, medl. jewels of, 108-10, 131, 161
" models for jewellery, 192-3
Leblanc, 316
Le Blon, M., 284, 304
"_Leda and the Swan_," by Cellini, 185, 228
Ledyard, Adam, 124
Lefebure, F., 282, 291
Lefèvre, R., 329
Légaré, Gédéon, 282, 287
" Gilles, 279, 282, 287-9, 291, 293, 294, 296, 298, 366
Leicester, Robert Dudley, Earl of, 239, 274
Leland, J., 207
Lely, Sir P., 353
Leman, Baptist, 208
Le Mans, xliii, 128
Lemersier, B., 282
Lempereur, 312, 318
Lennox, Henry Stuart, Earl of, 217
" jewel, 217, 257
Lenton, F., 235, 357
Leo III, Emperor, 34
Leonardus, C., 100, 101
Leopold, J. F., 309
Letelen, Albert von, 139
Letters, jewels in form of, 211
" pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248
Leven and Melville, Earl of, 221, 353
Leyden, John of, 250
Liberale di Giacomo da Verona, 175
Liberation, German War of, 330
Liberty, A. Lazenby, 339
Lichtwark, A., 193
Limoges enamel, medl., 86
" enamelled enseignes made at, 229
Limavady treasure, 43
Lion's head on Egyptian jewellery, 5
" Phoenician jewellery, 9
Lions on archaic Greek jewellery, 12
Lipona, Countess, 16
Lippmann, F., 190
Lisbon, Museum of Fine Arts, 347
Linas, C. de, 52 n.
"Little masters" (_Kleinmeister_), 191-6
Liverpool, Mayer collection, 60
Lively, 110, 116-7
_Livre de Taille d'Épargne_, 309
Llewellyn, 152
Llys-fæn, Carnarvonshire, 71
Loch Buy brooch, 133
Lochner, Stephan, 145
Lockets, memorial, Eng., 17-18 cent., 368
" 17 cent., 293
Lombard Street, 115
Lombards (Gothic tribe), 50
Lombardy, peasant jewellery, 346
London, British Museum, 3, 4, 8-10, 12, 17, 23-8, 34, 37, 44, 46, 51,
60, 63, 69, 72, 74, 76, 108, 119, 122, 129, 132,
133, 138, 190, 211, 273, 297
" British Museum, Franks Bequest, 37, 110, 145, 148, 246, 264, 368
" British Museum, Gibbs Bequest, 57, 62, 63
" British Museum, Waddesdon Bequest, 125, 184, 226, 231,
248, 272, 303, 366
" British Museum, Sloane collection, 218, 255
" British Museum, Gold Ornament Room, 154, 292
" British Museum, Carlisle collection, 246
" British Museum, Room of Greek and Roman Life, 23
" Cuming Museum, Walworth Road, 361 n.
" Dorchester House, 225, 288
" Girdlers' Company, 161, 272
" Goldsmiths' Company, 131, 213
" Guildhall Museum, 108, 165
" National Gallery, 140, 171, 174, 238, 259, 264, 365
" National Portrait Gallery, 141 n., 212, 222, 235, 254
" Royal Academy, 312, 313
" St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate, 115
" St. Paul's Cathedral, 115, 138
" South Kensington Museum Jewellery Exhibition, 1872, 241
" South Kensington Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
" Temple Church, 128
" Tower, 300
" Victoria and Albert Museum, 31, 36, 51, 72, 73, 120, 122, 129,
130, 138, 139, 163, 203, 218, 226,
231, 246, 248, 249, 254, 257, 266,
272, 273, 294, 296, 321, 334, 347,
356, 365, 369
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Art Library, 308, 344
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Dyce collection, 293
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Jones collection, 293
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Waterton collection, 149, 264
" Wallace collection, 226, 272, 296, 297
Londesborough collection, 129, 264
Loops (clasps), medl., 140
" Renaiss., 268
Lord Mayor of London, collar of, 117
Loreto, Santa Casa, 91
Lorn, brooch of, 133
Lothair II, K. of the Franks, 139
Lotto, Lorenzo, 263
Lotus flower, 4
Louis IX, St., K. of France, 119
" XI, K. of France, 109, 110, 116
" XII " 199
" XIII " 279, 286, 292
" XIV " 266, 279, 282, 293
" XV " 311, 320
" XVI " 311, 323
Louise Augusta, of Schleswig-Holstein, Princess, 339
Luckenbooth brooches, 133-4, 165
Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, 168, 172
Ludwig I, K. of Bavaria, 16
Lulls, Arnold, 231, 302, 304
Lunulæ, 42
Luthmer, F., xxxiv, 82, 135, 197, 240, 339, 352
Lyly, J., 217, 273
Lyons, 277
Lyte jewel, 257, 293, 303, 304, 354
" Sir H. Maxwell, 304
" Thomas, 303, 304, 354

Mabell, 269
Mabuse, 261, 351
Macdougals of Lorn, 133
Macleans of Loch Buy, 133
Macneals of Firfergus, 133
Macquoid, Mrs. Percy, 120
Madrid, Royal Armoury, 53
" Museum of Antiquities, 9
Mænad, 15
Magi. _See_ Kings of the East
Magna Græcia, 14, 17, 18
Magnussen, E., 339
Mainz, 135-7
Mainz Cathedral, 137
" " Treasury, 137
" Museum, 136
_Maîtres ornemanistes_, 246
Malone, E., 123 n.
Mammillary fibulæ, xliii, 42
Mantle clasps, medl., 140, 141
Manuscripts, representation of jewellery in, 82, 97, 174, 175, 176
Marbode, Bishop of Rennes, 100 n.
Marcasite, 315, 319, 321
Marchant, Pierre, 281, 292, 306
Margaret, Q. of Scotland, 114-115
Maria, 312, 319
Marie Antoinette, Q. of France, 316, 317, 318
Mariette, P. J., 288
Martial, 31, 355
Martin, brothers, 204
" Sir Richard, 220
Mary, the Blessed Virgin, 36, 37
" " monogram of, 97, 204, 249
" of Burgundy, Empress, 146 n., 246 n.
" daughter of James I, 302
" Q. of England, 207, 219, 237, 254, 269
" Q. of Scots, 220, 221, 234, 265, 268, 269, 353, 366
_Marygold by Temple Bar_, The, 306
Matsys, Quentin, 156, 227 n., 263
Mathias Corvinus, King of Hungary, 175
Mauricius, Emperor, 59
Mayer collection. _See_ Liverpool
Maximilian, Archduke of Austria, 248
" I, Emperor, 191, 146 n.
" II " 188
Mazarin, Cardinal, 279
Medallions on the hat, 229. _See also_ Enseignes
Medals, pendent, Renaiss., 247-8
" " English, 257
Medici, family, 114, 260, 294
" " device of, 260
" Costanza de', 170, 263
" Cosimo de', 260
" Francesco de', 233
" Guiliano de', 171
" Lorenzo de', 171, 260
" Lucrezia de', 292
" Piero de', 260
Mediterranean, 8, 21
Melillo, 334, 359
Melos, 17
"Memento Mori," 363-70
Memorial jewellery, 321, 331
" rings, 364-70
Merchants' marks on rings, 153
Mermaids, pendants in form of, Renaiss., 249, 250, 251
" " hung with bells, 164 n.
Merman, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 243, 249, 251
Merovingian dynasty, 52, 55
" jewellery, 46, 56
Merovingians, 50
Meuse, jewels found in, 143
Michelangelo di Viviano, 171
Mielich, Hans, 195, 226
Mignot, D., 193, 231, 280, 284, 304
Migrations of the Tribes, 49
Milan, Ambrosiana, 172
" Brera Gallery, 171
" Crespi Gallery, 225
" Poldi-Pezzoli Museum, 217, 255, 256
" S. Eustorgio, 111
" school of painting, 167
Millefiori glass in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
" " in Romano-British jewellery, 46
Milvian Bridge, battle of, 226
Minden, 139
Miniature cases, 218
" " Elizabethan, 256
" " English, 17 cent., 303
" " 17 cent., 281, 293, 297
" frames, pinchbeck, 316
" " 17 cent., by Marchant, 306
" " jewelled, 18 cent., by Toussaint, 313
Miniatures in bracelets, 319-20
" memorial jewellery, 369
Minster Lovel jewel, 69
_Minuteria_, xxxiii, 227 n.
"Mirror of France," 300
Mirror cases, medl. 146
" Renaiss., 272
" 17 cent., 297
Mithridates, 29
Mitres, jewels on, 97, 98
Mocha stone, 321
Models for jewellery in lead, 192-3
Möhring B., 338
Monckton, Lady, 317
Moncornet, B., 282, 287, 288
Monday, John, 208
Mondon, 309, 317
_Monilia baccata_, 29
" medl., 121, 138
" Roman, 29
Monograms, pendants in form of, 204, 212, 248, 249
" sewn on garments, 268
Monogrammists, 284
_Montauban_, 224, 231
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 323
Monte di Giovanni, 175
Montefeltro, Federigo of, Duke of Urbino. _See_ Federigo
Moorish influence on Portuguese peasant jewellery, 347
" influence on Spanish peasant jewellery, 205, 347
_Mordant_, xlvi, 159, 160, 162, 271
More, Sir Antonio, 352
Moreau, P., 312
Moreelse, Peter, 232
Morgan, Sir Matthew, 266
" Octavius, 148
" Pierpont, collection, 169, 173, 217, 248, 254, 256,
293, 297, 313 n.
Morisson, F. J., 308, 310
Morlière (of Orleans), 287
_Mors de chape_, 137
Morses, 121, 137-40
Mosaic jewellery, 19 cent., 327
Mosaics, Byzantine, 33, 34, 36
Mosbach, H., 282
Moser, G. M., 312
Moss agates, 18 cent., 321
" 19 cent., 328-9
Mottoes on rings, 295-6
Moulds for casting jewellery, 108, 122
Mount Charles, Countess of, 240
Mourning jewellery, 331, 369, 370
" rings, 296, 364-70
Mummies, 1, 6
Munich, 194
" Antiquarium, 3, 16
" Bavarian National Museum, 62, 120, 157, 192, 195, 231, 232, 247
" Coin Cabinet, 248
" jewels made at, 245
" Pinakothek, 261, 263
" Royal Library, 195, 226
" Royal Treasury, 195, 251
" in 16 cent., 188, 189
Munk, Eugenie, 339
Murat, Joachim, 16
Museums, collections of jewellery in, 336
" portraits and jewels in, 349
Mycenæ, 11, 19, 40, 43
Mycenæan jewellery, 11
" period, 21, 22
Mytens, D., 352

Nail, Holy, 204
Nancy, battle of, 107
Nantes, Edict of, 305
Napoleon I, Emperor, 118, 325, 329, 332
" III " 118
Narwhal, 123
Nassaro, Matteo del, 226, 227
National Gallery, London. _See_ London, National Gallery
"Navette" pendants, 246
Neckam, A., 92
Newman, Mrs., 339
Neck-chains, xl
" medl., 113-17
" Renaiss., 236-41
Necklaces, xl, xliv
" Anglo-Saxon, 58, 59, 74
" ancient British, 40
" Egyptian, 4
" Etruscan, 24
" Greek, 17
" hair, 19 cent., 331
" Italian, 15 cent., 172-3
" medl., 113-17, 121
" Phoenician, 10
" Renaiss., 236-42, 266, 285
" " perfumes worn in, 265
" rings worn on, 152, 261
" Roman, 29
" Romano-British, 45
" 17 cent., 291
" 18 " 313, 317, 318
" 19 " 328-31
Necklets, 113-17
" Renaiss., 239-40
Neck-ornaments, ancient Irish, 42
Nef, 246
" jewel, 252
Nene, 72
Neolithic Age, 47
Nephthys, 5
Neuburg, Amalia Hedwig of, 232
" Counts Palatine of, 232
" Dorothea Maria, wife of Otto Henry, Count of, 231
" Otto Henry, Count Palatine of, 230
Newcastle, William Cavendish, Duke of, 263
New College jewels, 96-8. _See also_ Oxford
New Year's gifts, 153, 213, 215, 220, 265, 302
Niello, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3
" Byzantine, 36
" Italian, 15 cent., 163, 168, 173
" on medl. brooch, 130
" on Tara brooch, 78
"Niello" designs, engraved, 284, 295
Nolin, P., 285
Norfolk, Duke of, 221
" " badge of, 110
Norman Conquest, 65
Normandy, peasant jewellery, 342, 343
Norsemen, ravages of England, 68
Northumbria, 60
Norway, peasant jewellery, 345
Nose-ornaments, ancient British, 40
Nouches, 70, 93, 111, 121, 141, 142, 145, 223
_Nowche_ or _nuche_, 141, 223
_Nummi bracteati_, Anglo-Saxon, 59
"Nuremberg eggs," 275
Nuremberg, 194
" jewellery made at, 202
" Germanic Museum, 232, 238, 272, 349
" St. Lawrence's Church, 120
" Town Library, 175
" 16 cent., 188, 189
Nutwell Court, 253

Odobesco, A., 52 n.

Olbia, forged jewels said to come from, 360

Olbrich, J. M., 338

_Oldano_, 275 n.

Oliver, I., 303
" P., 293

Olonne, Countess d', 288

Oppenheim, Baron A., 155

_Opus interrasile_, Byzantine, 34, 35
" Roman, 30

Orleans, Duke and Duchess of (1408), 162

_Orles_, 106

Ornament engravings. _See_ Engraved designs for jewellery

Orpheus, 100

Osma, J. G. de, 204

Ossian, 331

Otho II, Emperor, 34

_Ouch_ or _owche_, 141, 223. _See also_ Nouches

Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, 29, 60, 68, 73, 238, 298
" Ashmolean Fortnum collection, 264
" Bodleian Library, 63, 264
" New College, 123, 142, 149
" University Galleries, 293

Oxus treasure, 51

_Paillons_, 180, 260

Palestine, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86

Palissy, Bernard, 229

Palmer, Col. N., 68
" Thomas, 68

_Panier_, 319

Pantikapaion, 14

Paphos, 17

Paris, Bibliothèque Nationale, Cabinet des Médailles et Antiques,
30, 52, 53, 103, 185, 200, 225,
228, 245, 266, 292, 320, 330
" Dutuit collection, 139
" goldsmiths of, medl., 134
" Louvre, 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 172, 272, 291, 297, 329
" " Campana collection, 23, 24
" " Davillier Bequest, 251
" " Galerie d'Apollon, 137, 139, 154, 249
" " Adolphe Rothschild Bequest, 139, 240, 245
" " Salle des Bijoux Antiques, 23
" " Sauvageot collection, 154
" Musée Cluny, 53, 108, 139, 250, 251
" Notre-Dame, 329
" Quai des Orfévres, 314

Parmigianino (Mazzuola), 233
Parrot, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249
Parthey, G. F. C., 190-91
Partridge, Affabel, 220
" Mr. and Mrs., 339
Parure, 18 cent., 308
Pastes, 355-7
" imitating garnets, in Barbaric jewellery, 49-54
Paste jewellery, 18 cent., 314
" 19 " 328
Paternosterers, 124
Paton, J., 99
Patrick, St., 75
Pattern-books for jewellers, 17 cent., 280, 304
Pattern-books for jewellers, English, 18 cent., 310
Paul III, Pope, 199
"Paul's windows," 87
Peacocks, 35, 37
"Pea pod" ornament, 281, 289, 292, 293
Pearls, 314
" baroque, in Renaiss. pendants, 244
" " " toothpicks, 251
" in Byzantine jewellery, 33
" earrings, 234, 235, 291
" Q. Elizabeth's, 215
" false or mock, 314, 315, 357, 358
" pendent cluster, on jewels, 253 347
" pendent from Renaiss. jewels, 243
" _perles à potences_, 174
" ropes of, in the hair, 232, 316
" " as necklaces, 113, 239, 318
" "Roman," 358
" in Roman jewellery, 28
" Scottish, 121, 133, 356
" setting of, 15 cent., 174
" "Venetian," 358
" 19 cent., 328
Peasant jewellery, 341-7
" Dutch, 344-5
" Flemish, 345
" French, 342-4
" German, 346
" Hungarian, 197-8, 347
" Italian, 346
" Norwegian and Swedish, 345-6
" Portuguese, 347
" Spanish, 205, 347
_Pectoralia_, 138
Pectorals, Egyptian, 5
" medl., 135-46
Pembroke, Earl of, 116
Penannular brooch, xlii, xliii, 74
Pendants, xl
" Anglo-Saxon, 58
" Egyptian, 5
" Etruscan, 24
" Flemish, 16 cent., 196
" girdle, medl., 159-60
" " Renaiss., 272, 275
" Italian, 15 cent., 169, 173
" medl., 118-26, 156
" Phoenician, 10
" Renaiss., 242-57
" " English, 212, 251-7
" " forgery of, 361
" " worn on hats, 223
" Roman, 29, 30
" 17 cent., 281, 291-4
" 18 " 309
_Pendeloques_, 291, 318
_Pendulum_, 93
Penicuik jewel, 221
Penruddock jewel, 252, 353
" Sir George, 353
_Pent-à-col_ (_pentacols_), 113, 121, 242
Pepys, S., 367
_Peres de eagle_, 122
Perfumes in bracelets, 265
" in earrings, 234
" in necklaces, 265
" in pomanders, medl. 125-6
" " Renaiss., 275
Persia, 33, 34, 50
Persian origin of inlaid jewellery, 52
Peru, emeralds from, 205
Peruzzi, Vincenzo, 279
Petitot, J., 288, 293, 304
Petrossa, treasure of, 50, 52
Peutin, John, 90
Pewter, jewels of, 111, 131, 161
Pforzheim, 339
Philibert, Margrave of Baden, 250
Philip "the Good," Duke of Burgundy, 89 n., 90, 155
Phoenicians, 21
Phoenicians jewellery, 7-10
Phoenix jewel, 218, 254, 255, 286
Phillips, Robert 335
Phylacteries, 122
Pichon, Baron, 119, 130, 264
"Picture-cases" (miniature-cases), English, 17 cent., 303
Pictures, jewellery in, 82, 329, 348-54
" Flemish jewellery in, 89, 90
" German jewellery in, 145, 189
" Italian, 15 cent., jewellery in, 167-76
" Italian, 16 cent., jewellery in, 183
" medl. necklaces in, 114-15
" " rings in, 155-6
_Pierre d' Alençon_, 343, 357
Piers Plowman, 153
Pilgrims' signs, 107-11, 222
" forgery of, 360-1
Piloty, 338
Pinchbeck, 315-16, 327, 359
" Christopher, 316, 321
" Edward, 321
Pinnow, 238, 267
Pins, xi-xli
" Anglo-Saxon, 57, 74
" ancient British, 41
" Romano-British, 45
Pinturicchio, B. B., 267
Plaquettes, 193
Plate-inlaying, 50
Plates or discs of gold, 11
" " ancient Irish, 43
" " Mycenæan, 12
Platinum, 311
Pliny, 28, 30, 32, 47, 355
Plon, Eugène, 184
Ploumyer, Allart, 208, 209
Plume decoration on hat, 111
Points, Renaiss., 267-9
Poison, medl. tests for, 123
" in rings, 32
Poitiers, Diana of, 266, 364
Pollaiuolo, A., 168, 174, 210
" P., 168
_Polypsephi_ rings, 32
Pomander, design for, by Dürer, 191
" medl., 125-6, 160
" Renaiss., 270, 275
" in form of skulls, 364
" 17 cent., 296
_Pomeambre_, 125
Pompadour, Madame de, 311, 320
Pompeii, 311, 326, 363
Pompey, 29
Pompoms (buttons), Renaiss., 268
Pont-y-Saison, 46
Portinari, Tommaso, 114
" " daughter of, 114, 115, 117
" " Maria, wife of, 114, 144
Portland, Duke of, 221, 235, 354
Portraits, enamelled, as pendants, 17 cent., 292
" on bracelet clasps, 319-20
" on rings, Roman, 31
" " 18 cent., 320
"Portugal diamond," 300
Portugal, peasant jewellery, 347
Posy (posies), 128, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321
Pottery, glazed, 1
Pouches, medl., 165
Pouget, the younger, 312, 314, 317
Pourbus, Peter, 352
Prague, 188, 198
" Cathedral Treasury, 121
Præneste, 24
Prato, Girolamo del, 185
Prayer-books, enamelled gold, 218, 273, 274
Precious stones, imitation of, 355-8
" in modern jewellery, 337, 338
" setting of, in Renaiss. jewellery, 180, 260
" mystery of, 99-104
" 19 cent., 328
Predis, Ambrogio da, 172
Prerogative Royal, 44
Price, F. G. Hilton, 306
"Primavera," 169
"Primrose," Mrs., 350
Prutscher, O., 339
Ptolemaic jewellery, 6
"Pulvisculus aureus," 21
Purbeck, Island of, 47
Purled work, 19 cent., 327
Purses, Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 165
Puy, peasant jewellery, 343
_Pylon_, 5
Pynson, R., 236
Pyrites, iron (marcasite), 315

Quartz, 313
" crystals, 357

Raab, H., 287
Rabelais, F., 199
Raibolini, Francesco. _See_ Francia
Raimbau, Mlle., 312
Raleigh, Sir Walter, 235
Rameses II, 4, 5
Raphael, 182, 226
Ravenna, 33, 70
" Sant' Apollinare Nuovo, church of, 36
" San Vitale, church of, 33, 36
Raynes, Robert, 237
_Reasons_, 152
Récamier, Madame, 326
Reccesvinthus, 54
Red Sea, 28
Rée, P. J., 275
Relics, 102, 108, 111, 118, 125
" in rings, 152
Reliquaries, Byzantine, 36
" Italian, 15 cent., 173
" medl., 118-19, 121, 160
" Spanish, 203, 347
Rembrandt, 291
Renaiss. jewellery, its general characteristics, 177-183
Renty, 316
Repoussé work, 11
" Byzantine, 34
" Egyptian, 3
" Etruscan, 21
" Greek, 13
" Irish, 43
" Renaiss., 227
_Resons_, 152
Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 313, 353
Rhenish enamels, 85-6
Rhine, Irish missionaries on, 67
Rhodes, 12
Richard I, K. of England, xliii, 128
" II " 94, 110, 114, 116, 141
" III " 116, 222
Ring-brooch. _See_ Brooch
Ring-money, 40, 43
Rings, xliv, xlv
" Anglo-Saxon, 62, 71-3
" betrothal, 261-2
" ancient British, 40
" Byzantine, 37
" charm, 151-2
" with coins, Roman, 32
" with death's heads, 364
" decade, 150
" devotional, 149, 150, 152
" " signets, 153
" made by St. Dunstan, 67
" ecclesiastical, 147-9
" Egyptian, 2, 67
" engagement, 261-2, 296
" engraved designs for, 263, 264, 284, 295, 296
" episcopal, xlv, 148, 149
" Etruscan, 25, 26
" _fede_, 152, 261
" _fyancel_, 152
" giardinetti, 295
" gimmel, 152, 261
" Greek, 18
" with hair, 331
" worn on hats, 261
" iconographic, 149, 150
" of investiture, 148
" Italian, 15 cent., 170
" jet, 47
" Jewish, 262
" key-rings, Byzantine, 37
" " Roman, 31
" _marquise_, 321
" medl., 147-57
" " with antique gems, 96, 101, 103, 148-9, 153-4
" " with false stones, 356
" " forged, 360
" memento mori, 365-70
" memorial, 364-70
" mourning, 296, 321, 367
" Merovingian, 62, 73
" Mycenæan, 11
" worn on necklaces, 152, 261
" nielloed, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3
" " Italian, 15 cent., 173
" ornamental, xlv
" " medl., 154-5
" " Renaiss., 258, 259
" " 17 cent., 295, 296
" papal, 148
" Phoenician, 10
" in pictures, 155-7, 261, 263, 295
" poison, 32
" _polypsephi_, Roman, 32
" posy, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321, 367
" with relics, 152
" religious, 149-50
" Renaiss., 258-64
" arranged along a roll of parchment, 155, 156, 170, 263
" Roman, 31
" Romano-British, 47
" Samothracian, 32
" in ancient sculpture, 18
" signets, xlv, 298
" " of Childeric I, 53, 63
" " Egyptian, 6
" " Greek, 18
" " medl., 153-154
" " Roman, 31
" " 17 cent., 298
" talismanic, 111
" Teutonic, _à trois grains_, 73
" wedding, xlv
" " medl., 152
" " converted into memorial, 367
" " Jewish, 262
" " Renaiss., 262
" " 17 cent., 296
" " 18 cent., 321
" 17 cent., 295-6
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 320, 321
Rivard, C., 282, 291
Rivers, ornaments found in, 107
Roach Smith nouche, 69
Robin, 331
Robinson, F. S., 339
Rococo, 307, 308, 311, 324, 332
Rogart, 77
"Roman de la Rose," 113, 164
Roman jewellery, 27-32
Romano-British jewellery, 44-48
"Romantic" jewellery, 331
" style, 332
Romanus, Emperor, 34
Rome, Barberini Palace, 175
" Baths of Petus, 182
" Castle of St. Angelo, 334
" National Gallery, 225
" Vatican, 22
" " Appartamento Borgia, 267
" " Gallery of Constantine, 226
" " Library, 175
" " Loggie, 182
Romerswael, Marinus van, 156
Romney, Earl of, 273
Rosenheim, Max, 193 n., 294
"Rössel," "das goldene," 88
Rosso, Il, 201
Rosaries, 124-5, 156
" as bracelets, 157
Rosary beads in form of skulls, 364
Rosette, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 294
Rothschild, Baron F., 303
" Baron K., 197
Rotterdam Gallery, 232
Rouen, 128
" peasant jewellery, 343
Roy, 237
Rubens, P. P., 287
Rubies, 148, 260
" of Charles the Bold. _See_ Three Brothers
Rudolf II, Emperor, 100, 188, 189
Rudolphine Period, 188
Runic characters on Hunterston brooch, 79
Russia, Byzantine jewellery in, 38
" Greek jewellery in, 14-16

Sabines, 20
Sabra, princess, 224
_Sacré Coeur_, 345
Safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41
Saint, T. D., 312
St. Angelo in Vado, 333
St. Denis Cathedral, 137
" " treasury, 103
_Saint Esprit_, 343
St. Germain, Musée des Antiquités Nationales, 46
St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate. _See_ London
St. Hilary, jewel of, 103
St. Paul's Cathedral. _See_ London
St. Petersburg, Hermitage Museum, 9, 15, 16
Saitapharnes, tiara of, 360
Salting, George, 119, 176, 224, 248, 263
Santini family, drawings by, 308, 317, 318, 344
Sapphires, 54, 151
Saragossa, treasury of the Virgen del Pilar, 144, 203, 249
Sarawak, Ranee of, 339
Sardinia, 8, 9, 21
Sardonyx, 31
Sarre, 59
" brooch, 60
Sarum, 138
Saur, C., 284
Savoy, peasant jewellery, 342
Saxons 50, 56
Scandinavians, 50
Scarabs, 2, 5, 6, 10, 25
Scent-cases, 125-6, 275
Schaffhausen onyx, 103, 104, 136
Schaper, Hugo, 238
Schliemann, H., 11, 40
Schneider, F., 137
Schönbrunn, 294
Schöpfer, H. 250
_Schotenornamentik_, 281
_Schwarzornamente_, 283, 289
Scissors suspended to girdle, 272
Scorpion, jewelled, 172
Scotland, introduction of Christianity into, 75
" Celtic brooches, 75-9
" medl. brooches, 131-4
Scott, Sir Walter, 301, 331
Scythian tribes, 14
Seal stone, Egyptian, 6
Seals, medl., 139
" pendent, 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 322-4
" 19 " 332
Seffrid, Bishop of Chichester, 149
Seghers, D., 287
Seneca, 29
Serpent bracelet, Roman, 30
" ring, Greek, 18
Set-Hathor, 5
_Sévignés_, 294, 298, 318
Shagreen jewel-cases, 362
Shale, Kimmeridge, 47
Shakespeare, W., 151, 216, 229, 237
" portrait of, 235
Shank (of ring), xlv
Sheffield plate, 315
" steelwork, 315
Sherborne Castle, 267
Ships, pendants in form of, 249, 252, 253, 347
Shoe-buckles, 299, 321, 322
" -strings, 322
Shoes, rosettes on, 299
Shore, Jane, 115
Shrines, jewels on, 91, 108
Sicily, 27
" Arabs in, 84
" peasant jewellery, 347
" Roman plunder of, 27
Siena Cathedral, 175
" school of painting, 167
_Signacula_, 109, 111
Signs of pilgrimage, 107
Silhouette, Etienne de, 314
" designs, 283, 284, 289, 304
" portraits, 314
Silhouettes in mourning jewellery, 369
Silver jewellery worn by virgins, 342
_Similor_, 316, 359
Simon, James, 163
Simpson, E., 339
" T., 304
"Sippenaltar," 145 n.
Sirens, pendants in form of, 250
Skeletons, 363-7
Skulls, 364-6
Slashes in garments, 259, 265, 268-9
Slides, 342, 343
" memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368
Sloane, Sir Hans, 72, 211, 255
Slott-Möller, H., 339
Smith, C. Roach, 62, 69
" J., 310
" R. Soden, 264
Sodoma (Bazzi), 233
Solder, Egyptian, 3
" Etruscan, 20, 21
" Greek, 13
" Phoenician, 8
" prehistoric, 39
Solis, Virgil, 193, 194
Somerset, Alfred in, 68
" Anne, Duchess of, 233, 273
" Edward Seymour, Duke of, 233, 273
" Robert Carr, Earl of, 235
Southampton, Henry Wriothesley, Earl of, 235
South Kensington Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Spain, Arabs in, 84
" Phoenician sculpture in, 9
" peasant jewellery, 347
" 16 cent. jewellery, 202-205
" 17 cent. jewellery, 294
"Spangle money," 59
Spenser, E., 217
Sphinxes, 5, 16
Spilman, Sir J., 301
_Spinther_, 30
Spiral ornament, 11
" " Celtic, 39, 75
Spitzer collection, 246
SS Collar, 116-17
Stabler, Harold, 339
Stafford, Lady, 154
_Stalagmia_, 29
Steatite, 5
Steel jewellery, 315, 319
Stephan, Master. _See_ Lochner
Stephanus. _See_ Delaune, Etienne
Stock-buckles, 322
Stoffels, Hendrickje, 291
Stoffler, W., 339
"Stomacher," 318, 350
Stone Age, 47
Stowe, J., 207
Stras or Strass, 314, 315, 357
Strawberry Hill, 257, 288
Strigel, Bernard, 189, 238
Stuart, Arabella, 299
" Henry, Earl of Lennox. _See_ Lennox
Stubbes, Philip, 215, 234, 272
Studded girdle, 161
Suffolk, Henry Grey, Duke of, 254
Sulla, 28
Sumptuary laws, 27, 93, 94, 161
Sustermans, J., 294
Svinthila, 50, 54
Swans on Byzantine jewellery, 37
Sweden, peasant jewellery, 345
Switzerland, use of marcasite in 18 cent., 315
" peasant jewellery, 346
Symonds, J. A. (quoted), 168, 185
Symony, P., 282, 284

_Tableau_ or _tabulet_, 120
Tablets, votive, pendent, 119
Tag of girdle, xlvi, 160
Tags (aglets), 269
Talaura, 29
Talbot, 249
" Earl of Shrewsbury, badge of, 110
Talismans, 30, 99, 101, 109, 111, 121, 129, 132, 147, 151
Talismanic inscriptions on Scottish brooches, 111, 131
Tallien, Madame, 326
Taman, 14
Taplow buckle, 63
Tara brooch, 66, 78, 79
Tassels, Greek, 18
" of medl. clasps, 140
" Phoenician, 9
Tassie, J., 315, 330
Tauric Chersonese, 14
Tavernier, J. B., 278
Terrey, William, 304
_Tet_, 2
Teutonic jewellery, 51, 53
" nations, 56, 57
Tharros, 9, 10
Theban dynasties, 3
Theodamas, 100
Theodora, Empress, 33
Theophano, 34
Theophilus, 85, 356
Thirty Years' War, 189, 238, 276
Thomas à Becket, St., 91, 96, 109, 140
Three Brothers, jewel called, 209, 300
Three Kings of the East. _See_ Kings
Tiara of Saitapharnes, 360
Tiffany, Messrs., 339
_Tinctura_, 278, 351
Titian, 264
_Titulus_, 132
Toadstones, 100, 123, 151
Toes, jewels on, 19 cent., 326
Tongue of buckle, xlvi
Toothpicks, 250-1
Tor Abbey, Devonshire, 365
Tornabuoni, Giovanna, 169
Torque, from Petrossa, 52
_Torques bracchialis_, 30
Torques, 236
" ancient British, 40
" " Irish, 42, 43
Touching-pieces, 123
Tournai, 52
_Tours de tête_, 328
_Tousches_, 123
Toussaint, Augustus, 313
Toutin, H., 285, 295
" J., 285, 293, 295
" J., in his workshop, 289
Tovaloccio Piero, Giovanni and Romolo del, 185
Tower of London. _See_ London
Townley brooch, 70
"Toys," "Toyman," 316
Tradescant, John, the younger, wife of, 298
Translucent enamel on relief. _See_ Enamel, _basse-taille_
Transylvania, 58
Traquair, Mrs., 339
Treasure hoards, 51
" Trove, 44
Treasuries, jewellery preserved in, 83
Trender, Peter, 220
_Tressoures_, 93, 105
"Triplet," 357
Triptychs, pendent, 119-20
_Triquetra_, 78
Triton, pendant in form of, 243, 249
Troad, 9
Trumpet pattern, Celtic, 43
" " on Tara brooch, 78, 79
Tucher, Baron, collection of, 225
"Tulipomania," 286
Tulips painted on enamel, 286
Turkey stone, 151
Turquoise, 3, 67, 151
Turner (potter), 315
Tuscany, schools of painting, 167
Twiselton, John, 208
_Tymborychoi_, 13
Tyrol, peasant jewellery, 346
Tyszkiewicz, Count, 17, 360
Tytler, P. Fraser, 257

Ucker-Mark (N. Germany), 267
Ugadale brooch, 133
Uffila brooch, 62
Uffizi Gallery. _See_ Florence
Umbria, peasant jewellery, 346
Unger, Elsa, 339
Unicorn, Master of the, 200
Unicorn's horn, 123
Unicorns on medl. jewels, 145
" on Renaiss. jewels, 243
_Uniones_, 28
University brooch, 78
_Uræus_, 2
Urban VI, Pope, 122
Usekh collar, 5
Usertsen III, 5
Utrecht, John of, 208
_Uza_ or _utchat_, 2

Van den Hecke, J., 287
Van der Cruycen, L., 312, 317
" Doort, Abraham, 219
" Goes, H., 114, 117, 144
" Gow, J., 213 n.
Van de Velde, H. C., 338
Van Dyck, A., 354
Van Somer, P., 352
Van Strydonck, L., 339
Van Thielen, J. P., 287
Vasari, G., 168, 227
Vatican. _See_ Rome
Vauquer, J., 287-9, 293
Vautier, 297
Velasquez, 294
Venetian pendants, Renaiss., 246
Venetians, sack of Constantinople by, 38
Veneto (Veneziano), Bartolommeo, 225
Venice, Byzantine jewellery in, 83-84
" Library of St. Mark's, 175
" in Middle Ages, 89
" port of, 15-16 cent., 167
" school of painting, 167
Vermiculated patterns in gold, Anglo-Saxon, 63
Vernicles, 130
Veronese, Paolo, 172
Veronica, 130 n.
_Verre églomisé_, 203-4
Verrocchio, Andrea del, 168, 174 210
Versailles, Picture Gallery, 329
Verus, Lucius, 292
Vespasian, 28
Vespucci, Simonetta, 168
Vesuvius, 311
Vever, 338
Victoria, Q. of England, 257
Vienna, Imperial Art Collections, 30, 145, 185, 247
" Imperial Art Collections, Antiken-Kabinet, 228
" Picture Gallery, 155, 212
" Treasury, 188
" jewellery in, 18 cent., 308
" reproductions made in, 361
Vigée-Lebrun, Madame, 329
Vinci, Leonardo da, 172
Virgin, The. _See_ Mary, the Blessed Virgin
Visigoths, 50, 54
Vos, Cornelis de, 296
Vovert, J., 285
Vulci, 23, 24
Vyner, Sir Robert, 305

Waddesdon Bequest. _See_ London, British Museum
Wagner, Anna, 339
Walpole, Horace, 214, 257, 288
Walsingham Priory, 91, 108
War of Liberation, German, 330
Wars of the Roses, 95
Warwick, Earls, badge of, 110
"Wasps," 316
Watches, 16 cent., 274
" 17 cent., 274, 275, 297-8
" 18 cent., 309, 323-4
" egg-shaped, 275
" false, 324
" in form of skulls, 364
Watch-cases, pinchbeck, 316
" " 18 cent., 313
" -chains, hair, 331
" -keys, 18 cent., 310, 322-3
Waterton, Edmund, 71, 149 n., 264
" collection. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Way, Albert, 257
Wedgwood, 315, 319, 321, 328, 330
Weimar, Picture Gallery, 261
Wells Cathedral, sculpture on, 128
Werner, J. H., 338
Westminster, 211, 268
" Abbey, 92, 102, 119, 141, 215
Whistles, pendent, 190, 193, 198, 250, 251
Wight, Isle of, 56, 57, 59, 60
Wild jewel, 218, 254
Wilde, W. R., 42 n.
William I, K. of England, 91
" III " 306
" Duke of Juliers, 250, 259
" St., of York, 141
" of Wykeham. _See_ Wykeham
Williams, John, 238, 257, 302
Wilson, H., 339
Wilton House, 116
Winchester Cathedral, 98, 148
Windsor Castle, 219, 224, 225, 249, 257, 292
Witham, 74
Wittislingen, 62
Woeiriot, Pierre, 201, 219, 234, 246, 263, 366
Wolfers, P., 339
Wolgemut, M., 189
Wolsey, T., Cardinal, 208
Wootton-under-Edge (Gloucestershire), 116
Worley, Nicolas, 208
Wreaths, Byzantine, 35
" Greek, 16
" medl., 105
Wright, T., 101
Wykeham, William of, Bishop of Winchester, 96-8, 142, 149

Yecla, 9
York Minster, 138
" " shrine of the head of St. William, 141

Zerrenden, F., 339
_Zona_, 93
Zucchero, F., 253, 352, 353
Zundt, Mathias, 194

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JewelleryChapter XXXVII: Memento Mori (2)

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