Chapter XXX: Seventeenth-Century Jewellery (general), 276

" XXXI. SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY JEWELLERY (_contd._), 290
ENGLAND, SEVENTEENTH CENTURY, 299

" XXXII. EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY JEWELLERY, 307

" XXXIII. NINETEENTH-CENTURY JEWELLERY
--THE MODERN REVIVAL, 325

" XXXIV. PEASANT JEWELLERY, 341

" XXXV. JEWELLERY IN PICTURES, 348

" XXXVI. FRAUDS AND FORGERIES, 355

" XXXVII. MEMENTO MORI, 363

BIBLIOGRAPHY, 371

INDEX, 381

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

B. M. = British Museum.
V. and A. M. = Victoria and Albert Museum.

_A page-number appended to a description indicates
place of reference in the text._

I. SIXTEENTH-CENTURY PENDENT JEWELS OF ENAMELLED GOLD _Frontispiece_
1. Pendant in the form of a Triton. Italian.
(Marquess of Clanricarde.) _p. 249._
2. Pendant in form of a winged dragon. Spanish.
_p. 249._ (Louvre.)

II. PHOENICIAN JEWELLERY _p. 8._
1-8. From Cyprus and Sardinia. (B. M.)
1-4. Four gold earrings. _p. 9._ 1. Chrysalis form.
2-3. A pair: birds perched above a bushel of grain.
4. Long oval ring terminating with a cross.
5-6. Two necklaces with pendent heads in the Egyptian
style, from Tharros in Sardinia. _p. 10._ 5. Beads
of glass and gold. 6. Carnelian bugles.
7-8. Two seal pendants of silver, set with sard scarabs.

9. Ibero-Phoenician stone bust, known as the "Lady of
Elché." _p. 9._ (Louvre.) (_Photo, Giraudon._)

III. EARLY GREEK JEWELLERY _p. 12._
1. Three gold plates or discs from Mycenæ. _p. 11._
(National Museum, Athens.)
2-7. Gold ornaments of the Mycenæan period. _p. 12._ (B. M.)
2. Pendant from Ægina: figure in Egyptian costume
grasping geese.
3. Plaque from Kameiros: winged goddess, with two
lions in the round, and owls at the top.
4. Diadem of spiral ornament, from Enkomi (Salamis),
Cyprus.
5-6. Pair of leech-shaped earrings, from Enkomi.
7. Pendent pomegranate of granulated gold, from Enkomi.

IV. GREEK JEWELLERY (EARRINGS, NECKLACE AND HAIR-PIN). (B. M.) _p. 16._
1-3. Three earrings. _p. 15._ 1. Head of a goat with
garnet eye. 2. Pendent Cupids and Victories (Kyme,
in Æolis). 3. Eros with a jug (Crete).
4. Gold necklace with pendent tassels in form of
pomegranates (Kyme).
5. Pair of gold earrings set with garnets and emeralds,
connected by a plaited chain. (Tyszkiewicz Collection.)
6. Gold pin from Paphos, Cyprus. _p. 17._

V. GREEK JEWELLERY (CROWN, NECKLACES, BRACELET, RINGS). (B. M.) _p. 18._
1. Gold crown from Magna Græcia, second century B.C.
(Tyszkiewicz Collection.) _p. 17._
2. Necklace with enamelled rosettes and filigree.
(Blacas Collection.)
3. Enamelled gold necklace from Melos. _p. 17._
4. Gold bracelet with bulls' heads. (Blacas Collection.)
5. Four rings. 1. Gold, demon with Sphynx and panther
(early Ionic). 2. Silver, surmounted by gold fly
(Cyprus). _p. 10._ 3. Gold, engraved with figures of
Aphrodite and Eros. 4. Gold, with busts of Serapis
and Isis (Græco-Roman).

VI. ETRUSCAN JEWELLERY (PINS, NECKLACES, EARRINGS). (B. M.) _p. 22._
1. Hair pins and balls of granulated gold, from Etruria.
2. Primitive necklace of amber, gold, and electrum, from
Præneste. _p. 24._
3. Necklace hung with pendent vases and heads of Io.
4. Necklace with pendent head of a faun. _p. 24._
5. Chain with pendent head of a negro. _p. 24._
6. Necklace of plasma and gold beads, with basalt amulet
pendant. _p. 25._
7-8. Earrings. _p. 23._ 7. Saddle-shaped, with fine
granulation.
8. Pendent cock in white enamel.

VII. ETRUSCAN JEWELLERY (BROOCHES, DIADEM, BRACELET, RINGS).
(B. M.) _p. 24._
1. Early fibula from Cervetri, surmounted with
figures of lions. _p. 25._
2. Gold diadem of ivy leaves and berries. _p. 23._
3. Fibula from Tuscana, with meander pattern in fine
granulation.
4. Early bracelet from Cervetri, with minute granular
work. _p. 25._
5-8. Four rings. 1. Bezel mounted with intaglio, gold
border with tendril pattern (Chiusi). 2. Cartouche
with figures of shepherd and dog (Chiusi).
3. Intaglio bezel supported by lions. _p. 25._
4. Large oval bezel bordered with dolphins and
waves (Bolsena). _p. 26._

VIII. ROMAN JEWELLERY _p. 30._
1-6. (B. M.)
1. Gold necklace set with garnets, and a pendant
in form of a butterfly.
2. Gold necklace, with a pendent aureus of
Domitian. _p. 30._
3. Gold hair-pin from Tarentum surmounted by a
figure of Aphrodite. _p. 28._
4-6. Three gold rings. _pp. 31-32._ 4. Serpent form.
5. Open-worked, set with a nicolo intaglio--a mask
of a Satyr. 6. Eye-shaped, with open-work shoulders,
set with a nicolo.
7-15. (V. and A. M.)
7-10. Earrings. _pp. 28-29._ 7. Porphyry drop. 8. Two
pearls (_crotalia_) suspended from yoke. 9. Basket
of fruit set with garnet, a carnelian bead, and an
emerald pendant. 10. Large hook set with sapphire,
an emerald below, and three pearl drops.
11. Gold bracelet in form of a serpent. _p. 30._
12-15. Four rings. 12. Gold: tragic mask in high relief.
13. Gold: quintuple, set with two sapphires and
three garnets. 14. Gold: raised open-work bezel set
with a sapphire and a chrysoprase. 15. Gilt bronze:
bust of Serapis in relief. _p. 32._

IX. BYZANTINE JEWELLERY, AND ENAMELLED JEWELLERY IN
THE BYZANTINE STYLE _p. 36._
1-7 and 9-11. (B. M.) 8. (V. and A. M.)
1-2. Pair of gold loop earrings: a cross patée
between two peacocks confronted. About seventh
century. _p. 35._
3. Gold pectoral cross with a text from Galatians
vi. 14. Eleventh century. _p. 36._
4-5. Pair of gold and enamelled loop earrings. Twelfth
century. _p. 35._
6. Nielloed gold wedding ring: Christ and the Virgin
blessing a bride and bridegroom. About tenth century.
7. Engraved gold signet ring. About fifth century.
8. Beresford-Hope cross: cloisonné enamel. About eighth
century. _p. 36._
9. The Castellani brooch: portrait in cloisonné enamel.
North Italian, seventh century. _p. 70._
10. Gold inscribed key ring. Fourth century. _p. 37._
11. Townley brooch. Probably Rhenish work, with Byzantine
cloisonné enamels. Tenth or eleventh century. _p. 70._

X. PREHISTORIC GOLD ORNAMENTS OF THE BRITISH ISLES (B. M.) _p. 40._
1. Ring, found at Bormer, near Falmer, Sussex.
2. Plaited ring, found near Waterford, Ireland.
3. "Ring Money" of gold and silver, found at Rustington,
Sussex.
4. Torque fastened by a ring, found at Boyton, Suffolk.
5. Disc, found at Castle Treasure, near Douglas, Co. Cork.
6. Dress fastener, found at Crif Keran Castle, Co. Armagh.
7. Bracelet, found at Bexley, Kent.

XI. ANGLO-SAXON AND ROMANO-BRITISH BROOCHES, ETC. (B. M.) _p. 60._
1-5. Anglo-Saxon inlaid jewellery.
1. Gold brooch, from Sarre, Kent. _p. 61._
2. Silver brooch, from Faversham, Kent. _p. 60._
3. Gold pendant, from Faversham. _p. 58._
4. Bronze brooch, from Wingham, Kent. _p. 60._
5. Gold brooch, from Abingdon, Berks. _p. 61_, note.
6-7. Romano-British brooches.
6. Bronze brooch set with slices of Roman millefiori
glass, from Pont-y-Saison, near Chepstow, Mon. _p. 46._
7. Enamelled bronze brooch, found in London.
(Hastings Collection.) _p. 46._

XII. ANGLO-SAXON AND FRANKISH JEWELLERY
(FIFTH TO SEVENTH CENTURIES) _p. 62._
1-6. (B. M.)
1. Gold necklace with garnets, from Desborough,
Northants. _p. 74._
2. Gold bracteate, from Ash, near Sandwich,
Kent. _p. 59._
3. Saucer-shaped brooch, bronze gilt, from East
Shefford, Berks. _p. 61._
4. Square-headed brooch, from Chessell Down, Isle
of Wight. _p. 62._
5. Cruciform brooch, bronze gilt, from Sleaford,
Lincs. _p. 61._
6. Inlaid and jewelled gold buckle, from Taplow,
Bucks. _p. 63._
7. "Radiated" brooch of silver, enriched with gold
and inlay of garnets. The back inscribed with the
name UFFILA. Seventh century. From Wittislingen
on the Danube. 6½ inches long. _p. 62._
(Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)

XIII. LATE ANGLO-SAXON JEWELLERY
(SEVENTH TO NINTH CENTURIES) _p. 68._
1-2. The Alfred Jewel. _pp. 68-69._
(Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.)
3. St. Cuthbert's cross. _p. 68._ (Durham Cathedral.)
4. Dowgate Hill brooch: cloisonné enamel and pearls.
_p. 69._ (B. M.)
5. Ethelwulf's ring. _p. 72._ (B. M.)
6. Nielloed gold ring with two bezels, found in the
Nene, near Peterborough. _p. 72._ (B. M.)
7. Ethelswith's ring. _p. 72._ (B. M.)
8. Gold ring, found in Garrick Street, London. (B. M.)
9. Alhstan's ring. _p. 71._ (V. and A. M.)
10. Nielloed gold ring. _p. 73._ (Lord Fitzhardinge.)
11. Silver ring found in the Thames at Chelsea. _p. 73._
(V. and A. M.)

XIV. THE TARA BROOCH. _p. 78._
(Collection of the Royal Irish Academy,
National Museum, Dublin.)

XV. THE JEWELS OF WILLIAM OF WYKEHAM.
NEW COLLEGE, OXFORD. _p. 96._
1. Monogram of the Virgin: gold, enamelled, and set
with rubies, emeralds and pearls.
2. Silver-gilt decorations of the mitre: comprising
two quatrefoils set with turquoises, two rosettes
set with pastes, and hinged bands of brasse-taille
enamel set with pearls and crystals. English, late
fourteenth century. _pp. 96-98._

XVI. ANTIQUE CAMEOS IN MEDIÆVAL SETTINGS. _p. 102._
1. The Jewel of St. Hilary. _p. 103._
(Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
2. The Schaffhausen onyx. _p. 104._
3. The cameo of Charles V of France. _p. 103._
(Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.) (_Photo, Giraudon._)

XVII. MEDIÆVAL HEAD-ORNAMENTS. _p. 110._
1-4. Pilgrims' signs of lead. _p. 110._ (B. M.)
1. Head of St. Thomas with swords, within a cusped
border.
2. Ampulla for blood of St. Thomas.
3. St. George within a border.
4. Head of St. John the Baptist.
5-8. Retainers' badges of lead. _p. 110._ (B. M.)
5. Hart lodged (Richard II).
6. Crowned ostrich feather (Duke of Norfolk).
7. Rose and fetterlock (Edward IV).
8. Collared hound (Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury).
9. Silver-gilt crown or circlet, set with pearls
and coloured pastes. French, fourteenth
century. _p. 106._
(Musée du Cinquantenaire, Brussels.)
10-12. Three fifteenth-century gold enseignes.
10. Antique onyx cameo, outer frame set with rubies.
Spanish. _p. 111._ (V. and A. M.)
11. "Pelican in her Piety," set with a ruby and diamond.
Flemish (found in the Meuse). _p. 111._ (B. M.)
12. Figure of a dromedary in white enamel in frame set
with pearls. Flemish. _p. 146._
(Museo Nazionale, Florence.) (_Photo, Alinari._)

XVIII. MEDIÆVAL PENDANTS (RELIQUARIES, ETC.) _p. 120._
1. Silver reliquary set with crystal. German,
fifteenth century. _p. 121._
(Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
2. Silver-gilt reliquary, from the treasury of Enger,
near Herford, in Westphalia. Fifteenth century.
(Kunstgewerbe Museum, Berlin.)
3. Silver-gilt pomander opening into four sections.
German, about 1480. _p. 126._
(Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
4. Gold Reliquary of Charlemagne, containing a fragment
of the True Cross. German, ninth (?) century _p. 118._
5. "Reliquary of St. Louis," gold, enriched with translucent
enamels, containing a thorn from the Crown of Thorns.
French, fourteenth century. _p. 119._ (B. M.)
6. Gold bracelet. German, twelfth century. _p. 157._
(Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)

XIX. MEDIÆVAL PENDANTS _p. 124._
1. Silver-gilt pendant containing figures of saints
and angels, surmounted by the Virgin and Child.
German, fifteenth century. _p. 120._
(Bavarian National Museum, Munich).
2-3, 5-8, and 10. German fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries. (V. and A. M.)
2. Coronation of the Virgin, silver gilt.
3. _Agnus Dei_, silver gilt. Inscribed: IECUC (JESUS)
MARIA JOHANNES ANNUS (AGNUS). On the back:
JESUS MAIRA (MARIA) JOHANNES MARIA HILF. _p. 122._
4. Nielloed pendant, silver gilt: with the Annunciation
on one side, and the sacred monogram on the other.
Italian, fifteenth century. _p. 173._ (V. and A. M.)
5. St. Sebastian, silver gilt.
6. The Crucifixion, silver gilt.
7. Figures of four saints, silver gilt.
8. Gold cross, set with rubies and pearls. Fifteenth
century.
9. The Devil of Temptation, silver gilt. Flemish or German,
fifteenth century. _p. 120._ (Mrs. Percy Macquoid.)
10. Rosary of boxwood, with emblems of the Passion in
silver. _p. 124._

XX. MEDIÆVAL BROOCHES (RING-BROOCHES, ETC.) _p. 130._
1-6. GOLD RING-BROOCHES (_fermails_).
1. Set with pearls and precious stones, and with
four bosses of animals. Fourteenth century.
_p. 129._ (B. M.)
2. Enamelled blue and white, and inscribed with a
text from St. Luke iv. 30. French, fourteenth
century. _p. 130._ (Museo Nazionale, Florence.)
(_Photo, Alinari._)
3. Set with rubies and sapphires, the back nielloed.
French, thirteenth century. _p. 130._ (V. and A. M.)
4. Heart-shaped, inscribed. French, fifteenth century.
_p. 139._ (V. and A. M.)
5. Circular: inscribed, and set with two rubies and
four small emeralds. English (from Enniscorthy Abbey),
fourteenth century. (B. M.)
6. Set with rubies and emeralds. French, thirteenth
century. _p. 130._ (Museo Nazionale, Florence.)
(_Photo, Alinari._)
7. Silver-gilt brooch in form of St. Christopher.
English (from Kingston-on-Thames),
fifteenth century. _p. 142._ (B. M.)
8-12. FLEMISH-BURGUNDIAN GOLD BROOCHES (_nouches_).
Fifteenth century.
8. Two standing figures, enamelled, and set with a
ruby, diamond, and pearls. _p. 146._
(Imperial Art Collections, Vienna.)
9. Seated female figure with golden rays behind:
enamelled and set with pearls. _p. 144._
(Essen Treasury.)
10-12. Brooches found in the Meuse. _p. 143._ (B. M.)
10. Enamelled and set with a ruby and diamond.
11. A female figure, set with a sapphire, diamond,
and three rubies.
12. Set with a ruby amidst foliage, with traces of enamel.

XXI. MEDIÆVAL SCOTTISH BROOCHES. THE GLENLYON AND LOCH BUY BROOCHES.
(B. M.) _p. 132._
1. The Glenlyon brooch. Silver gilt, set with amethysts,
pearls, and rock crystal: the back inscribed.
Fifteenth century. _p. 132._
2. The Loch Buy brooch. Silver, set with rock crystal
and pearls. About 1500. _p. 133._

XXII. MEDIÆVAL BROOCHES (PECTORALS AND MORSE) _p. 136._
1. The "Eagle Fibula"; gold and cloisonné enamel.
Early twelfth century. _p. 135._ (Mainz Museum.)
2. Gold brooch in form of an eagle, set with emeralds,
lapis-lazuli, a sapphire, and a ruby. Thirteenth
century. _p. 136._ (Baron von Heyl.) From an etching
in _Kunstgewerbe-Blatt_, III.
(By permission of the artist, Prof. P. Halm, of Munich.)
3. Silver-gilt morse, made in 1484 for Albert von Letelin,
Canon of Minden, by the goldsmith Reinecke van Dressche
of Minden. _p. 139._ (Kunstgewerbe Museum, Berlin.)

XXIII. MEDIÆVAL AND LATER RINGS _p. 148._
1-2. Episcopal rings of William of Wykeham.
Fourteenth century. (New College, Oxford.)
1. Gold set with a ruby. _p. 149._
2. Silver gilt, with representation of the
crucifixion, set with a crystal.
3. Gold, episcopal, set with a sapphire. English,
fourteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
4-5. The Coventry ring (two views). Gold, engraved with
the five wounds of Christ and their names. English,
about 1457. _p. 150._ (B. M.)
6. The Godstow Priory ring: a gold love-ring, with
legends and forget-me-nots. English, fifteenth
century. _p. 150._
7. Gold, episcopal, projecting bezel set with a sapphire.
French, fourteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
8. Gold, episcopal, of complex design, set with a
sapphire. Italian, fifteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
9. Silver, set with a toadstone. German, sixteenth
century. _p. 151._ (V. and A. M.)
10. "Papal" ring. Gilt metal with cardinal's hat and
crossed keys. On shoulders Virgin and Child and Saint.
Inscription on hoop: EPISC. LUGDUN--Cardinal de
Bourbon (?), Archbishop of Lyons, 1466-1488. Italian,
fifteenth century. _p. 148._ (V. and A. M.)
11. Antique gem in red jasper, set in gold Italian mount
of the fourteenth century, inscribed:
S. FR. DE COLUMPNA. _p. 154._ (V. and A. M.)
12. Gold, set with a wolf's tooth, and inscribed with
the charm motto:
+BURO+BERTO+BERNETO+CONSUMMATUM EST.
English, fourteenth century. _p. 152._ (V. and A. M.)
13. Gold ornamental ring, chased, enamelled, and set
with emeralds. Italian, sixteenth century. (B. M.)
14. Gold signet ring with the arms of Mortimer. English,
seventeenth century. (V. and A. M.)
15. Silver-gilt wedding ring, set with two teeth. North
German, seventeenth century. _p. 262._ (V. and A. M.)
16. Fede ring, nielloed silver. Italian, fifteenth
century. _p. 173_ (V. and A. M.)
17. Ornamental ring of silver gilt, set with a foiled
crystal. German, sixteenth century. _p. 356._
(V. and A. M.)
18. The Percy signet. Gold. Inscribed: "NOW YS THUS."
From Towton Field, W. R., Yorks. English, fifteenth
century. _p. 153._ (B. M.)
19. Ornamental ring of silver gilt, with stag and foliage
in open-work. German, late fifteenth century.
(V. and A. M.)
20. Gimmel rings, enamelled gold. German, sixteenth
century. _p. 261._ (B. M.)

XXIV. PICTURE, KNOWN AS THE "LEGEND OF ST. ELOY AND ST. GODEBERTA,"
REPRESENTING THE INTERIOR OF A GOLDSMITH'S SHOP IN THE FIFTEENTH
CENTURY. By PETRUS CHRISTUS, OF BRUGES. _p. 155._
(Baron A. Oppenheim, of Cologne) _p. 156._

XXV. FIFTEENTH-CENTURY PENDANTS, ETC. (ITALIAN AND FLEMISH) _p. 170._
1. The "Felicini" jewel, by Francia. Reproduced from
a picture in the Bologna Gallery. _p. 170._
2. Enamelled gold pendant, figured with the Annunciation.
Italian, fifteenth century. _p. 173._
(Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
3. Pendent jewel of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy,
set with three rubies ("the Brethren"), a diamond,
and four pearls. _p. 209._
4. Two silver-gilt girdle-plates, with figures of Samson
and St. Michael. Flemish, fifteenth century. _p. 163._
(Herr James Simon, of Berlin.)

XXVI. DESIGNS FOR JEWELLERY BY DÜRER AND HOLBEIN. (B. M.) _p. 190._
1. Drawings for two ring-shaped pendent whistles
by Dürer. _p. 190._
2-3. Etchings for (2) a buckle and buckle-plate and
(3) a girdle-end, by Hollar, from lost originals
by Dürer. _p. 191._
4-9. Drawings by Holbein. _p. 212._
4. Jewelled pendant: a monogram of the letters R and E.
5. A pendant of open goldwork with ribbon ornament;
a diamond in the centre, surrounded by six pearls,
and a pearl below.
6. Pendant formed in a monogram of the letters H and I.
7-8. Two pendants each formed of two stones, one above
the other, set in goldwork, with three pearls below.
9. Pendant: a bust of a woman holding before her a large
stone, on which are the words _Well Laydi Well_.

XXVII. DESIGNS FOR JEWELLERY by SOLIS, WOEIRIOT,
HORNIC, AND BROSAMER _p. 194._
1-2. Engravings for pendants by Virgil Solis.
_p. 194._ (B. M.)
3. Engraving for a pendant by Pierre Woeiriot,
dated 1555. _p. 201_ (B. M.)
4-6. Engravings for pendants by Erasmus Hornick:
Neptune and Amphitrite, and St. George and the
Dragon. _p. 194._ (B. M.)
7. Drawing for pendent whistle by Han Brosamer,
fitted with toothpick, etc.
_pp. 193, 250._ (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)

XXVIII. RENAISSANCE JEWELLERY OF ENAMELLED GOLD.
(His Majesty the King) _p. 218._
1. Painted enamel back of a "lesser George" of
the Garter, belonging to Charles II. English,
seventeenth century. _p. 292._
2. Enamelled gold enseigne, with figures of St. George
and the Dragon. Venetian, sixteenth century. _p. 224._
3. Enamelled gold pendant, with figures of Apollo and
Daphne: inscribed: DAPHNEM PHEBVS AMAT, etc.
Italian, sixteenth century.
4. The Lennox or Darnley Jewel. Scottish, sixteenth
century. _pp. 217 and 257._
5. Miniature case of enamelled gold, open-worked and
set with diamonds and rubies. English, late sixteenth
or early seventeenth century. It contains a lock of
hair of Charles I taken from his coffin. _p. 257._

From the _Connoisseur_ (1903). By permission of
Mr. J. T. Herbert Baily.

XXIX. RENAISSANCE ENSEIGNES OF ENAMELLED GOLD _p. 226._
1. Head of John the Baptist on a charger. Italian,
sixteenth century. _p. 226._ (V. and A. M.)
2. Bust of Helen. Italian, sixteenth century.
(Poldi-Pezzoli Museum, Milan.)
3. Battle scene. Italian, sixteenth century. _p. 225._
(Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
4. Head of a negro in agate. German, sixteenth
century. _p. 228._ (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
5. Leda and the Swan. By Cellini. _p. 228._
(Antiken Kabinet, Vienna.)
6. Cameo bust of Nero on sardonyx, in enamelled mount
set with diamonds and rubies. French, sixteenth
century. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
(Photo, Giraudon.)
7. Cameo of Diana on sardonyx in enamelled setting.
French, sixteenth century. (B. M.)
8. Onyx cameo, winged female head in enamelled setting.
French, sixteenth century. (B. M.)

XXX. HAT-ORNAMENTS (AIGRETTES, ETC.). LATE SIXTEENTH AND EARLY
SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES _p. 230._
1. Two coloured drawings for jewelled aigrettes.
By Arnold Lulls, jeweller to James I.
_pp. 231 and 302-3._ (V. and A. M.)
2. Gold enseigne of Sir Francis Drake: enamelled and
set with diamonds, rubies, and opals. _p. 230._
See also Plate XXXIV, 3. (Sir F. Fuller-Eliott-Drake.)
3. Socket for an aigrette, enamelled gold set with rubies:
initials D. M.--Dorothea Maria, wife of Otto Henry,
Count Palatine of Neuburg. _pp. 230-1._
(Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
4. Enamelled gold aigrette set with emeralds, pearls, etc.
S. German, early seventeenth century. (Formerly
the property of Sir T. D. Gibson Carmichael.)

XXXI. GERMAN AND FRENCH RENAISSANCE PENDENTS _p. 244._
1. Necklace and pendant of enamelled gold set
with diamonds, rubies, and pearls.
German, late sixteenth century. (Lady Rothschild.)
2. Pendant of enamelled gold. In the centre a table-cut
emerald with a triangular emerald above. French,
sixteenth century. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
3. Gold pendant: on the front two raised shields of arms;
on the back the initials D. A. German, about 1530.
_p. 248._ (V. and A. M.)
4. Cameo bust of a woman, the head carnelian, with amethyst
drapery, jewelled gold crown; gold background and black
enamelled frame. German, sixteenth century.
(His Majesty the King.)
5. Pendant in the shape of a Sphynx. The body formed of
a large baroque pearl. Head, breast, and arms are
flesh-coloured enamel; the claw opaque white with gold
scales; the tail green, set with diamonds. On the breast
is a ruby. The base mounted with a row of diamonds on
white enamel, the creatures at each end being green.
The chains, of white enamel set with diamonds, hang from
a ruby, from which is suspended a heart-shaped pearl.
German, late sixteenth century. (Lady Rothschild.)
6. Portrait cameo in agate. Gold mount enamelled black
and white and set with four rubies and two diamonds,
with a pendent pearl. The portrait (unidentified)
is represented on a contemporary medal by a north
Italian artist. The mount, French, sixteenth century.
(Bibliothèque Nationale Paris.)
7. Gold pomander case: enriched with brilliant blue, red,
and translucent green enamel, and opaque white.
Set with rubies and pendent pearls, German, late
sixteenth century. (Lady Rothschild.)

XXXII. THREE PENDENT JEWELS _p. 246._
Gold, enriched with polychrome enamels, set with
precious stones and hung with pearls. German,
about 1600. (Lady Rothschild.)

XXXIII. PENDENT JEWELS BY HANS COLLAERT, ETC. _p. 248._
1. Enamelled gold pendant: in centre a figure of
Charity with three children, on each side a
pilaster set with diamonds and rubies
alternately, with a cupid above, and beyond
each pilaster a figure of Faith on one side
and Fortitude on the other. German, sixteenth
century. (B. M., Waddesdon Bequest.)
2. Design for a pendant by Hans Collaert (1581).
_p. 196._ (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
3. Pendant in the style of Collaert: enamelled gold,
in the form of a ship, with figures of Antony
and Cleopatra. _pp. 197, 247._ (Mr. Charles
Wertheimer.)

XXXIV. RENAISSANCE PENDANTS, ETC., OF GOLD, ENAMELLED
AND JEWELLED. SPANISH (1-2) AND ENGLISH (3-6). _p. 254._
1-2. SPANISH PENDANTS, LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY.
From the Treasury of the Virgen del Pilar,
Saragossa. 1. Jewel in form of a parrot:
translucent green enamel, the breast set
with a hyacinth. _p. 249._ 2. Jewel of
enamelled gold: a dog standing on a scroll,
set with diamonds, rubies, and an emerald.
(V. and A. M.)
3-4. THE DRAKE JEWELS: presented to Sir Francis Drake
by Queen Elizabeth. 3. Enseigne of enamelled
gold set with diamonds, rubies, and opals; the
centre ruby engraved with the Queen's orb and
cross. _p. 230._ 4. Enamelled gold pendant,
containing a miniature of Elizabeth by Hilliard.
_p. 253._ (Sir F. Fuller-Eliott-Drake.)
5-6. THE ARMADA JEWEL. Believed to have been presented
by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Francis Walsingham.
Possibly the work of Nicholas Hilliard. 5. Front:
Gold bust of the Queen. 6. Back: Ark resting
peacefully on troubled waves. Inside: Miniature
of Elizabeth by Hilliard. _p. 255._ (Mr. J. Pierpont
Morgan.)

XXXV. ELIZABETHAN JEWELLERY _p. 256._
1. The Phoenix Jewel. _p. 255._ (B. M.)
2. Drake pendant in the form of a ship. _p. 253._
(Lord Fitzhardinge.)
3. Pendent miniature case, with carved medallion in
mother-of-pearl. _p. 256._ (Poldi-Pezzoli Museum,
Milan.)
4. The Barbor Jewel. _p. 254._ (V. and A. M.)
5. The Hunsdon Armlet. _p. 265-6._ (Lord Fitzhardinge.)
6. Onyx cameo in gold mount, presented to Queen Elizabeth
by Archbishop Parker. (Described in _Arch.
Journ._ Vol. XIX.) (Mr. G. E. Lloyd Baker.)
7. Edward VI's Prayer Book. _p. 274._ (Lord Fitzhardinge.)

XXXVI. RENAISSANCE AND LATER RINGS. (V. and A. M.) _p. 262._
1. Gold wedding ring: open-work hands (_fede_),
inscribed within: QVOD DEVS CONIVNVIT HOMO NON
SEPARET. Florentine, sixteenth century. _p. 262._
2. Jewish wedding ring of enamelled gold. Italian,
sixteenth century. _p. 262._
3. Gold wedding ring, set with rose diamond between
enamelled hands. English, dated 1706. _p. 321._
4. Gold, set with a pointed diamond. English,
seventeenth century. _p. 260._
5. Jewish wedding ring of enamelled gold in form of
a temple. German, sixteenth century. _p. 262._
6. Enamelled gold, set with a diamond. Italian,
sixteenth century.
7. Enamelled gold, figure of Cupid with a garnet on
the breast. Seventeenth century.
8. Gold, set with a miniature portrait of James Stuart,
the Old Chevalier.
9. Giardinetti ring: a basket of flowers composed of
diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. English, eighteenth
century. _p. 295._
10. Giardinetti: set with diamonds and rubies in the form
of a vase of flowers. English, late seventeenth
century. _p. 295._
11. Memorial: chased with death's head in white enamel,
and having diamond eyes. English, seventeenth
century. _p. 367._
12. Memorial: with enamelled skull. Inscribed: BEHOLD
THE ENDE. (Said to have belonged to Charles I.)
_p. 366._
13. Memorial: bezel enclosing painted female figure,
bearing inscription: NOT LOST BUT GONE BEFORE.
English, dated 1788. _p. 369._
14. Memorial: bezel enclosing funereal urn in hair
and gold. English, dated 1781. _p. 369._

XXXVII. RENAISSANCE BRACELETS _p. 266._
1. Gold bracelet of circular fluted links with
enamelled clasp. German, late sixteenth
century. _p. 266._ (V. and A. M.)
2. Bracelet of enamelled gold. French, seventeenth
century. _p. 294._ (V. and A. M.)
3-4. Bracelet of Diana of Poitiers, enamelled gold,
set with cameos. _p. 266._ (Bibliothèque
Nationale, Paris.) (Photo, Giraudon.)
5. Gold bracelet of Otto Henry, Count Palatine of
Neuburg (d. 1604), with his wife's initials--
D M P B R G H Z W V T (Dorothea Maria Pfalzgräfin
bei Rhein geborne Herzogin zu Wirtemberg und Tek.)
Compare _p. 230._ (Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)

XXXVIII. RENAISSANCE GIRDLES _p. 272._
1. Italian, fifteenth-century girdle of gold
tissue with gilt metal mounts. _p. 163._
(V. and A. M.)
2. Silver gilt chain girdle. German, late sixteenth
century. (Mrs. Percy Macquoid.)
3. Nuremberg girdle of leather, with silver-gilt
mounts. Seventeenth century. _p. 272._
(V. and A. M.)

XXXIX. ENGRAVED DESIGNS FOR JEWELLERY BY DANIEL MIGNOT.
_p. 280._ (Mr. Max Rosenheim.) _p. 280._

XL. ENGRAVED DESIGNS FOR JEWELLERY BY GILLES LÉGARÉ
AND PAUL BIRCKENHULTZ _p. 282._
1-2. Designs for pendants, seals, and rings; from
Gilles Légaré's _Livre des Ouvrages d'Orfévrerie_.
_p. 282._ (B. M.)
3. Seal in the style of Légaré. The upper part gold
with painted enamel; below, engraved on steel,
the Royal Arms of the Stuarts, with bâton sinister,
of Anne Fitz Roy (b. 1661, d. 1721, married 1674,
Lord Dacre, created Earl of Sussex), daughter of
Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland, and
Charles II. (Col. Croft Lyons.)
4. Design for a pendant by Paul Birckenhultz.
_pp. 280-1._ (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)

XLI. ENGRAVED PATTERNS FOR JEWELLERY, AND ENAMELLED JEWELS
EXECUTED FROM SIMILAR DESIGNS. LATE SIXTEENTH AND EARLY
SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES _p. 284._
1. Design for enamelled jewellery by Hans Hensel, of
Sagan (1599). _p. 284._ (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
2. Gold ring set with flat heart-shaped garnet: design
on shoulders reserved in gold on white enamel.
Early seventeenth century. _p. 295._ (B. M.)
3. Design for jewellery in champlevé enamel, by Guillaume
de la Quewellerie, of Amsterdam (1611). _p. 284._
(V. and A. M.)
4. Gold ring: the shoulders enamelled in the champlevé
manner with design in black and white. Late
sixteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
5. Design for an enamelled ring by Hans van Ghemert
(1585). _p. 284._ (V. and A. M.)
6. Design for enamel-work by Jean Toutin (1619).
_p. 285._ (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
7. The Lyte Jewel, containing a portrait of James I
by Isaac Oliver. Reverse side, with "silhouette"
pattern in gold and ruby champlevé enamel on white
ground. English, about 1610. _pp. 303-4._
(B. M., Waddesdon Bequest.) (Enamel-work of identical
design occurs on the back of a miniature-case,
containing a portrait of Charles I by Peter Oliver,
dated 1626, in the collection of Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
8. Design for enamel-work in the "niello" or "silhouette"
manner, by Stephanus Carteron (1615). _p. 285._
(Mr. Max Rosenheim.)

XLII. SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY ENAMELLED PENDANTS, ETC. _p. 290._
1. Gold pendant, containing an onyx cameo surrounded
by ribbon-work and flowers of coloured enamel,
set with rose diamonds. French. (Mr. Jeffery
Whitehead.)
2-3. Pair of earrings _en suite_ formed of a hand holding
a bow and bunch of flowers.
4. Pendant: an interlaced monogram of turquoise enamel
suspended from a crown-shaped ornament, enamelled
and set with diamonds. French. (Mr. Jeffery
Whitehead.)
5. Gold pendant of variegated enamel (translucent and
opaque) in form of a basket filled with fruit, with
flowers above, and a bird on the top. (H. C. S.)
6. Small aigrette of silver in form of a bunch of flowers
springing from a vase, set with rose diamonds, and
bearing traces of enamel. (H. C. S.)

XLIII. SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY ENAMELLED MINIATURE-CASES,
LOCKETS, ETC. _p. 292._
[A]1. Gold miniature-case by Jean Toutin: the design
reserved in gold on a ground of black enamel.
_p. 293._ (Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
2. Gold miniature-case, translucent green enamel,
with pattern in white, from a design by Pierre
Firens. _p. 293._ (V. and A. M., Dyce Collection.)
[A]3. Gold miniature-case of translucent green enamel
(_émail en résille_) with "pea-pod" design in green
and red; enclosing miniature of Charles II by
Samuel Cooper. _p. 293._ (Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
[A]4. Crystal reliquary mounted in enamelled gold and set
with a plaque of _verre églomisé_. Spanish, about
1600. _p. 203._ (Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
[A]5. Gold locket of purple enamel with floral design in
white, yellow, and green on gold (_émail en résille_).
French. (Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
6. Pendant, set with a cameo of Lucrezia de' Medici in
open-work floral border of painted enamel. French.
_p. 292._ (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
[A]7. Gold miniature-case of open-work design enamelled in
green, blue, and white; containing a miniature of
James I. English. (Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
8. Gold locket with painted ("Louis-Treize") enamel of
various colours in relief on blue ground. English.
_p. 293._ (Mrs. B. Spring-Rice.)

[A] Reproduced by permission of Dr. Williamson, acting on behalf
of Mr. J. Pierpoint Morgan. Copyright reserved.

XLIV. RINGS, SLIDES, AND PENDANTS (CHIEFLY MEMORIAL). SEVENTEENTH
AND EARLY EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES _p. 294._
1. Memorial ring, black enamel: set with crystal
over a skull and cross-bones; dated 1740.
2. Gold memorial locket with faceted crystal
enclosing hair; inscribed behind: "_Of such
is the Kingdom of God_." English, late
seventeenth century. _p. 368._
3. Memorial ring, black enamel; dated 1777.
4. Memorial ring, white enamel; dated 1739.
5. Memorial ring, white enamel; dated 1793.
6. Memorial ring, black enamel; set with faceted
crystal enclosing minute pattern in gold wire.
English, early eighteenth century.
(1--6--H. C. S.)
7. Back of a gold slide: painted enamel with initials
E. J. beneath a coronet. (Viscount Falkland.)
8. Gold ring: open-work floral pattern in painted
enamel; inscribed with a posy. _p. 295._
(Viscount Falkland.)
9. Silver locket surrounded by pearls, with faceted
crystal enclosing monogram in gold wire. English,
late seventeenth century. _p. 368._ (Mrs. Stewart
King.)
10-14. Memorial slides, with various devices and initials
in gold wire over hair or ribbed silk beneath
faceted crystal. English, late seventeenth and
early eighteenth centuries. _p. 368._ (Mr. Jeffery
Whitehead.)
15. Gold pendant set with an antique Roman cameo in
open-work floral border of painted enamel. English,
seventeenth century. _p. 292._ (His Majesty the King.)
16. "Memento Mori" jewel of enamelled gold; inscribed
round the sides: "_Through the resurrection of
Christe we be all sanctified_." English, about 1600.
_p. 365._ (V. and A. M.)
17. Gold pendant set with a cameo of Lucius Verus, in
border of "pea-pod" ornament. From a design by
Pierre Marchant. French, early seventeenth century.
_p. 292._ (B. M.)

XLV. PAGE FROM THE LEDGER OF SIR FRANCIS CHILD, JEWELLER TO WILLIAM III.
About 1674. Preserved at Child's Bank, No. 1 Fleet Street,
London, E. C. _p. 306._
(By permission of Mr. F. G. Hilton Price.) _p. 304._

XLVI. EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY JEWELLERY, FRENCH AND ENGLISH _p. 316._
1-3. Pendant, and two earrings _en suite_ containing
paintings _en grisaille_ on mother-of-pearl, in
gold frames set with rubies, diamonds, and
strings of pearls. French, Louis XVI.
(Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
4. Rosette-shaped brooch pavé with white paste of
fine quality. English, early eighteenth century.
(Col. Croft Lyons.)
5-6. Pair of _girandole_ earrings with paste sapphires.
Formerly the property of Madame du Barry. French,
Louis XV. _p. 217._ (Lady Monckton.)
7. Necklet and pendant of pink paste and marcasite.
English, about 1760. (Col. Croft Lyons.)

XLVII. EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY NECKLACES, ETC.
(Mr. Jeffery Whitehead) _p. 320._
1. Necklet and pendant of paste in silver setting.
English.
2-3. Pair of oval memorial clasps containing _grisaille_
paintings within pearl borders. English.
_p. 369._
4. Necklace of cut steel with Wedgwood cameos in
white on blue. English.

LXVIII. EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY CHATELAINES
(Mr. Jeffery Whitehead) _p. 322._
1. Chatelaine (equipage) of cut steel mounted with
Wedgwood ware in white cameo on blue jasper
ground, hung with a watch and two watch keys.
English, about 1780.
2. Chatelaine (equipage) of gold formed of a hook
with five pendants--a scissor-case, two thimble
or scent cases, and two needle or bodkin cases.
French, Louis XV. _p. 323._
3. Oval memorial clasp of blue enamel with minute
design in carved ivory and pearl work, mounted
in paste frame. English. _p. 369._

XLIX. EMPIRE HEAD-ORNAMENTS _p. 326._
1. Empire tiara of rose diamonds set in silver,
on gold mounts. (Mrs. Kirby.)
2. Empire head-ornament (_bandeau_) of gold, enriched
with blue enamel, and set with twenty-five
carnelian intaglios. Formerly the property of
the Empress Josephine. (Mr. M. G. Lloyd Baker.)
3. Empire comb _en suite_ set with four carnelian
intaglios. (Mr. M. G. Lloyd Baker.)

L. EARLY NINETEENTH-CENTURY JEWELLERY _p. 328._
1-2. Pair of earrings in form of baskets of flowers,
enamelled, and set with turquoises and pearls.
(Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
3-4. Pair of bracelet clasps of beaded goldwork set with
various coloured stones, with Crown and Royal
cypher in enamel. Formerly the property of Queen
Charlotte. (Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
5. Necklace and pendent cross, with brooch and earrings
_en suite_: of beaded gold and filigree, set with
pink topazes and pearls. English. (Lady Ramsay.)
6. Necklace, with brooch and earring _en suite_, of
coloured gold set with amethysts and pearls.
English. (Lady Ramsay.)

LI. BUCKLES AND NECKLACES. LATE EIGHTEENTH AND EARLY
NINETEENTH CENTURIES _p. 330._
1-2. Pair of steel buckles partly plated with silver.
Signed W. Hipkins. _p. 315._ (H. C. S.)
3. Girdle-clasp of faceted steel. English (Birmingham),
late eighteenth century. _p. 315._ (V. and A. M.)
4. Gold shoe-buckle. English, eighteenth century.
_p. 322._ (V. and A. M.)
5. Silver girdle-buckle. English, eighteenth century.
(H. C. S.)
6. Silver shoe-buckle. English, eighteenth century.
(H. C. S.)
7. Necklace of delicate gold filigree enriched with
blue enamel and set with sapphire pastes. Early
nineteenth century. (Mrs. Holman Hunt.)
8. Necklace of cast iron mounted with gold: the oval
plaques, in open-work, alternately a spray of
flowers and a figure subject in the style of an
antique gem. Prussia (Berlin), early nineteenth
century. _p. 330._ (V. and A. M.)

LII. MODERN FRENCH JEWELLERY. (V. and A. M.) _p. 338._
1. Enamelled gold brooch. By Georges Fouquet.
2. Neck-ornament (_plaque de collier_): carved horn,
set with pink baroque pearls. By René Lalique.
3. Pin for the hair, gold, set with opals and diamonds.
By Gaston Laffitte.
4. Gold pendant set with diamonds and an opal, and
enriched with open-work translucent enamel in high
relief. By Comte du Suau de la Croix.
5. Enamelled gold pendant, set with diamonds, opals, and
emeralds. By G. Gautrain.

LIII. SPANISH, PORTUGUESE, FLEMISH, AND FRENCH PEASANT
JEWELLERY, ETC. _p. 342._
1. Bow-shaped breast-ornament of gold set with
emeralds, and having large emerald pendant.
Spanish, seventeenth century. _p. 204._
(Mrs. Close.)
2. Earring of gold filigree hung with pendants.
Portuguese. _p. 347._ (Lady Cook, Viscondessa
de Monserrate.)
3. Gold pendant set with rose diamonds mounted on
silver rosettes. Flemish, eighteenth century.
_p. 345._ (H. C. S.)
4. Silver cross set with crystals. French (Normandy).
_p. 342._ (H. C. S.)
5. Pendent badge of brass, enamelled black, white,
and blue, containing a crowned monogram of the
Virgin. Spanish (Barcelona), seventeenth
century. _p. 204._ (H. C. S.)

LIV. "ADRIATIC" JEWELLERY. _p. 346._
1. Pendant in form of a ship, enriched with
coloured enamels and hung with clusters of
pearls. (Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
2. Ship pendant of gold filigree hung with pearls.
(Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
3-4. Pair of enamelled earrings hung with clusters
of pearls. (Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
5. Long earring of gold filigree mounted and hung
with pearls. (Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
6-8. Pendant and pair of earrings, of gold filigree
enriched with coloured enamels. From the Island
of Patmos. (Mr. Cecil H. Smith.)

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

Safety-pin xli Romano-British brooch or fibula with bilateral spring xlii Brooch formed of double spiral discs of concentric wire ("Spectacle" fibula) xlii Celtic brooch xliii Ring-brooch (Tomb of Queen Berengaria of Navarre, wife of Richard Coeur de Lion, at Le Mans) xliii Buckle, with buckle-plate and tag. German, about 1490. (Victoria and Albert Museum) xlvi Bronze fibula. (Ireland) xlvii Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece, made in 1432 by John Peutin, of Bruges, jeweller to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. (From the portrait of Baldwin de Lannoy by John van Eyck at Berlin) 90 Interior of a jeweller's shop. From _Kreuterbuch_. (Frankfort, 1536) 98 Gold ring engraved and enamelled with figures of the Virgin and Child and St. John the Evangelist. Scottish, fifteenth century. (Nat. Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh) 104 Necklace worn by the daughter of Tommaso Portinari in Van der Goes' triptych in the Uffizi Gallery, Florence 117 Pomander. From _Kreuterbuch_. (Frankfort, 1569) 126 A mediæval lapidary. From _Ortus Sanitatis_. (Strasburg, about 1497) 134 Mantle clasp (portion) on effigy of Henry IV. (Canterbury Cathedral) 140 Brooch of the Virgin in Lochner's "Dombild." (Cologne Cathedral) 145 English gold ring, fifteenth century. Engraved with the "Annunciation," and the words _en bon an_. (Mr. E. Richardson-Cox) 150 French gold ring, fourteenth century. (Louvre) 154 A goldsmith in his workshop. From _Hortus Sanitatis_. (Strasburg, 1536) 158 "Luckenbooth" brooch of silver. (Nat. Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh) 165 Pendant worn by one of the Three Graces in Botticelli's "Primavera." 169 Jewel, in Ghirlandaio's portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni 170 Brooch worn by the Virgin on fifteenth-century Florentine picture (No. 296, National Gallery, London) 174 A fifteenth-century jeweller. From _Ortus Sanitatis_. (Strasburg, about 1497) 176 Design for a pendent whistle by Hans Brosamer 198 Design for a pendant by Hans Brosamer 205 Earring, from Portrait of a Lady by Sodoma. (Frankfort Gallery) 233 Design for a pendant by Jacques Androuet Ducerceau 241 The Penruddock Jewel 252 Triple rings set with pointed diamonds. Device of Cosimo de' Medici. From Paolo Giovio's _Dialogo dell' imprese_. (Figured in Botticelli's "Pallas" in the Pitti Gallery) 260 Rings on a roll of parchment. From _Kreuterbuch_. (Frankfort, 1536) 263 Design for a bracelet by Jacques Androuet Ducerceau 269 Jean Toutin in his workshop, firing an enamelled jewel 289 Design for a pendent miniature-frame by Pierre Marchant 306