Chapter XXXVII: Memento Mori (1)

"I will keep it,
As they keep deaths' heads in rings,
To cry _memento_ to me."

The study of the various forms of personal ornament by means of which the memory of the dead or of death itself has been preserved by the living is one which offers a wide field for investigation. The Egyptians enforced the precept "_Memento Mori_" by introducing at their banquets a small coffin containing the image of a corpse which, according to Herodotus, was shown to each guest. In classical times skeletons were rarely represented, though one is sculptured on a tomb at Pompeii.

The warning "_Memento Mori_" manifested itself in divers fashions in the Middle Ages, the most conspicuous being the famous "Dance of Death," which made its début in the fourteenth century, and was figured by Holbein in the sixteenth. Testimony of the desire of all to keep the warning constantly before the mind is borne by personal ornaments of various kinds displaying emblems of mortality. In order to arrive at the meaning of these crude emblems so often applied to objects of jewellery, regard should be paid to the feelings of the times that gave them birth.

During the latter period of the Middle Ages the grim and ascetic contemplation of death caused the artists of that period to represent it as the devil, the father of sin, horned and cloven-hoofed, carrying off the sinful souls and forcing them into the mouth of hell. But when during the fifteenth century "printing excited men's imaginations, when the first discovery of the ancient classics roused their emulation and stimulated their unrest, when the Renaissance in art increased their eagerness to express their thoughts and multiplied their method of expression,"[193] and their conscience was turned to the latter end and the unseen world, then at length did death appear, no longer as the father of sin, but altered into a familiar and human personification.

[193] Cook (T. A.), _The history of Rouen_, p. 293.

Side by side with the strange vigour and extraordinary joy in life that marked the period, there existed a great contempt for the value of life and a gross familiarity with death. It was Death himself, according to the imagination of the sixteenth century, who, always at hand, clutched men of every age and condition by the sleeve and hurried them all unwillingly away.

The emblems of death were always presented in close touch with the living. The forms they took--the skeleton, or simply the skull, or Death's head, with cross-bones--were rendered in the sixteenth century by both painter and sculptor; but it was reserved for the goldsmith--the sculptor and painter in one--to represent them on jewellery through the medium of the precious metals enriched with gems and coloured enamels. They figured on every kind of ornament. Brooches with enamelled skulls were fastened as enseignes upon the hat; golden jewels like funereal objects in shape of coffins holding enamelled skeletons hung from the neck; rosary beads, pomanders and watches in the form of human skulls were attached to the waist; and rings bearing Death's heads and other emblems were worn upon the fingers.

A great impetus was given to the use of such articles of adornment by Diana of Poitiers when she became mistress of Henry II of France. She was then a widow in mourning; and the complaisant Court not only adopted her black and white as the fashionable colour, but covered their personal ornaments with emblems of death.

Jewels of this description, it is clear, were not necessarily carried in remembrance of any special individual. With their legend "Memento Mori" they were simply reminders of Death in the abstract. As such they characterised exactly the temper of the time, and were quite commonly worn by the upper and middle classes, especially by those who affected a respectable gravity. At the time of which we now speak the personal badge or _devise_, an obscure expression of some particular conceit of its wearer, was at the height of fashion. In its elaboration the various emblems of death were largely put under contribution, their choice for the purpose being the outcome of the special disposition of those who adopted them. Perhaps the most notable instance of the representation of a badge of this kind is in Holbein's famous "Ambassadors," in the National Gallery. Here Jean de Dinteville, who stands on the left of the picture, wears a circular jewel formed of a white enamelled skull in a gold mount, pinned as an enseigne to the lower rim of his small black bonnet.

Amongst sundry ornaments bearing mortuary devices, there is a good example at South Kensington--a _Memento Mori_ charm of enamelled gold in the form of a coffin containing a minutely articulated skeleton. It is English work of the Elizabethan period, and was found at Tor Abbey, Devonshire (Pl. XLIV, 16).

No article of decoration has been more extensively used as a "Memento Mori" or for memorial purposes than the finger ring. The association of the ring is largely with affairs of the heart, and lovers are united with it. And since the form itself is emblematic of eternity, so by this same token of affection has the memory of departed friends been kept green.

The sepulchral emblems referred to were not made use of for mediæval ornaments. But in the sixteenth century they were very frequent, especially on rings. One of the most remarkable specimens of the wonderful mastery over technical difficulties which stamps the goldsmith's work of this time is a "Memento Mori" ring of German work in the Waddesdon Bequest. Its bezel or top is in the form of a book, decorated at each corner with a diamond, emerald, sapphire, and ruby, with snakes and toads between them. In the centre is a death's head. The lid on opening discloses a recumbent figure with skull and hour-glass. On the shoulders of the ring, supporting the bezel, are figures of Adam and Eve representing The Fall and Expulsion from Eden. All the figures are enamelled in high relief, and though merely a fraction of an inch in size, are executed with extraordinary fidelity. A ring described as having belonged to Mary Stuart is in the possession of the Earl of Ilchester. Its bezel, composed of a large ruby cut in the form of a death's head and set with diamond eyes, is supported underneath by cross-bones in enamel. Woeiriot's beautiful collection of designs for rings, of the year 1561, contains a ring of this kind surmounted with a skull and cross-bones; and Gilles Légaré's _Recueil_ of a century later has an engraving of similar pattern (Pl. XL).

English rings of the sixteenth century have a death's head carved in intaglio on carnelian, or sunk in the metal of the ring and sometimes filled with enamel. Around is the motto "Memento Mori," and similar expressions in Latin or in English (Pl. XXXVI, 12). A certain Agnes Hals whose will is dated 1554 bequeathed to her niece "my rynge of gold with the wepinge eie," and to her son "my rynge with the dead manes head."

From the commencement of the seventeenth century Memento Mori rings begin to be worn also as memorials of the departed, and bequests of money were frequently made for their purchase. The decoration of many of the rings of this period is very curious. On some the death's head in its natural shape is beautifully formed in enamel, has small diamond eyes, and is supported on each side by skeletons bent along the hoop of the ring. The bezel of others is of crystal in the shape of a coffin, the lid of which on being removed discloses a skeleton. Widows on the death of their husbands sometimes converted their wedding rings into memorial rings. This was done by engraving outside an elongated skeleton, the bones of which were brought into prominence by a background of black enamel.

Inside the memorial rings of the time was often a motto or posy, appropriate for the purpose, sometimes rhyming:--

Prepared be
To follow me;

or

I restless live, yet hope to see
That day of Christ, and then see thee.

Rings of this kind, commonly known as mourning rings, were frequently given, together with gloves and hat-bands, to those who attended at funerals. They were inscribed, in addition to a posy, with the initials of the deceased and the date. Evelyn at his son's funeral in 1658 distributed a number of rings with the motto "Dominus abstulit." At Pepys' funeral upwards of a hundred and thirty rings were given to friends and relatives.

Mention must be made, amongst other memorial jewellery, of the various objects worn in memory of Charles I. Most of these are finger rings containing a portrait of the ill-fated monarch, which were made and worn by Royalists after his execution. Some are so contrived that the portrait can only be discovered by opening a lid formed of a table diamond. They were doubtless used by those for whom devotion of the kind was dangerous. Other jewels worn in memory of the Royal Martyr were heart-shaped lockets, inscribed and decorated in a suitably funereal manner with skulls, cross-bones, and like emblems.

An important group of ornaments, dating from the time of Charles II to that of Queen Anne, are those in the form of small memorial brooches, lockets, bracelet clasps, buttons, and slides with loops at the back for attachment to a velvet band. They are of considerable interest in that they represent almost the only surviving examples of English jewellery of the time. The Franks Bequest in the British Museum contains several specimens. They usually have letters in a fine filigree of gold entwined in a monogram, laid on a ground of crimson silk, and covered with a thick crystal set in gold. The gold filigree, which is of extraordinary delicacy, is often laid on braids of hair arranged in various designs, and accompanied by the skull and cross-bones. The crystal covering is sometimes cut in table form, but is more often rose-cut. The locket surrounded with pearls shown on Plate XLIV has on its surface no less than a hundred facets.

Memorial rings of the same period have bezels with similar designs beneath a rose diamond or faceted crystal. Their hoops are mostly enamelled black on the shoulders. In the second quarter of the eighteenth century the mortuary emblems of skull and cross-bones in general disappear. The hoop of the ring is shaped in the form of a scroll or ribbon, and set with a small diamond, a coloured stone, or usually a white crystal. Around the hoop is inscribed in enamel the name and age of the deceased, and date of death. Black enamel was used for those who had been married; while white was employed for the unmarried--just as it was the practice at the funeral of an unmarried man or woman for the mourners and attendants to be clothed in white.

Mourning jewellery was extremely popular in England towards the end of the eighteenth and in the early part of the nineteenth century. The variety of design in objects of the kind then in use, and the ingenuity displayed in their production, may well be judged from a collection numbering upwards of one hundred and fifty specimens in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Some mementoes of the deceased are simply miniature portraits, as well as cameos and silhouettes, the miniature sometimes taking the form of a single eye set round with pearls or diamonds. But in most cases it appears to have been the custom to wear in lockets, brooches, and rings microscopic devices--works of infinite patience and skill--wrought in hair, with initials and other designs cunningly worked in seed pearls. There were also, sometimes, paintings in _grisaille_ (Pl. XLVII, 2, 3). These often represented a lady in mourning garb weeping over a funeral urn, in the style of the ornament worn by Mr. Wemmick, the attorney's clerk in _Great Expectations_, of whom Dickens gives the following inimitable description: "I judged him to be a bachelor from the frayed condition of his linen, and he appeared to have sustained a good many bereavements; for he wore at least four mourning rings, besides a brooch representing a lady and a weeping willow at a tomb with an urn on it. I noticed, too, that several rings and seals hung at his watch chain, as if he were quite laden with remembrances of departed friends." Further on Mr. Wemmick himself describes his personal jewellery, and concludes by remarking: "I always take 'em. They're curiosities. And they're property. They may not be worth much, but, after all, they're property and portable.... My guiding-star always is, Get hold of portable property."

The painted brooches backed with hair and set round with pearls form, as a matter of fact, very pretty jewels, in spite of the sombreness of their subject and the trivial sentimentality of their mottoes, which run in this vein: "Whose hair I wear--I loved most dear."

Mourning jewellery was usually set with pearls, garnets, or more often jet. The last, until a short while ago, was in universal favour, and was fashioned into all sorts of ornaments. It fortunately now meets with but little demand. The same applies to hair jewellery, of human hair woven in many intricate plaitings into brooches, rings, bracelets, and chains. The brooches of about the "forties" have a broad border inscribed with the word "Memory," etc., in Gothic letters on black enamel, and in the centre a panel of plaited hair. The custom of wearing ornaments composed of such sombre and unpleasing material has now to all intents and purposes ceased, though it is carried on to a certain extent in France, where _ouvrages en cheveux_ in the form of bracelets and lockets are still worn as _précieux souvenirs de famille_.

After the middle of the nineteenth century the use of mourning rings and other memorial jewellery began to die out. The goddess Fashion, who throughout all ages has waged war on the productions of the goldsmith, has laid a heavier hand on these than on any other forms of personal ornament--a circumstance which accounts for the survival at the present day of a comparatively small proportion of the enormous quantity of objects of this description that must formerly have been produced. Most families from time to time have consigned to the melting-pot accumulations of these memorials of their predecessors; and those who have been long in the jeweller's business confess to the hundreds of such relics that they have broken up. It is to be hoped that the present-day revival may lead to the preservation of what remain of these quaint mementoes of our frail mortality.

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INDEX

[.A][=a]h-[h.]etep, 3, 5
À Becket, Thomas. _See_ Thomas à Becket
Aberford (Yorks), 72
Abingdon brooch, 60
Acorn-shaped pendants, Phoenician, 10
Acorn-shaped pendants, worn by Henry VIII, 206
Acton, John, 302, 304
_Acus_, xli, xlii, 60, 127
Adalbert of Saxony, 137
Adams (potter), 315
Adriatic, 83
" jewellery, 246, 347
Ægean, 12
Ægides, 6
_Aetites_, 122
Aglets, 268-9
_Agnus Dei_, 72, 122
Agnolo, Luca, 185
_Agrafes_, 140
Aigrettes, Hungarian, 198
" jewelled, 230, 231
" " sockets for, 230
" 17 cent., 230, 231, 281, 290, 291, 303
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 316, 317
_Aigulets_, 268
Aix-la-Chapelle, Treasury, 118, 139
Albacete, 9
Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 194
" VI, Duke of Bavaria, 248
Albini, D. M., 309
Alciatus, A., 223
Aldegrever, H., 185, 193, 194, 250, 259
_Alençon, Pierre d'_, 343, 357
Alexandria, 93
Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, 158
" II, Duke of Ferrara, 292
Alfred the Great, 68, 69, 71
" Jewel, 68, 69
Algeria, Celtic brooch in, 76
Algerian women, head-ornaments of, 9
Alhstan, Bishop of Sherborne, 71
Alicante, 9
Allori, Alessandro, 350
Altdorfer, A., 189
Altoetting (Bavaria), 88
Amadas, Robert, 208
Ambassadors, jewellery given to, Eng., 17 cent., 306
Amber in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
" in ancient Irish jewellery, 42
" in German peasant jewellery, 346
" in early Italian jewellery, 24
" in prehistoric jewellery, 39
" in Roman jewellery, 30
" in Romano-British jewellery, 45
Ambergris, 125 n.
Amboise, Cardinal d', 199
Amethystine quartz, beads of, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
Amethysts, 19 cent., 328, 329
Amman, Jost, 270
_Amourette_, 146
Amphoræ, 8, 10
Amphora-shaped ornaments, Greek, 16
Amsterdam, Charles I's jewellery sent over to, 305
Amulets, Egyptian, 2
" Etruscan, 25
" medl., 103, 122, 132
" in medl. rings, 151
" Roman, 29, 32
" Romano-British, 47
_Ananizapta_, 152
Androuet Ducerceau, J., 201, 219, 241, 246, 265, 269
Angell, John, 208
Angles, 56
Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 51, 56-74
Ankles, rings for, 6
Ann Boleyn, Q. of England, 212
Anne of Austria, wife of Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 195
" of Bohemia, Q. of England, 141
" of Denmark, Q. of England, 268, 301
Annunciation, on medl. morses, 139
" on Renaiss. pendants, 244-5
Anselm, 92
Anthony, Dericke, 220
Antioch, sack of, 33
Antonio di Girolamo, 175
Antwerp, corporation of goldsmiths, 155
" engravers of designs for jewellery, 196
" Hans of. _See_ Hans.
" Museum, 227 n.
" port of, 16 cent., 167
_Annulus vertuosus_, 147
Aphrodite, 28
Arabella Stuart, 299
Arabs in Spain and Sicily, 84
Ardagh chalice, 66
Ark on Elizabethan jewellery, 255, 256
Armada jewels, 217, 255
Armagnacs, badge of, 110
Armento, 16
_Armillæ_, ancient British, 41
" Roman, 30
Armlet, Hunsdon, 218
Armlets, xliv
" ancient Irish, 42
" medl., 157-8
" Roman, 30
" Romano-British, 47
Arphe, Juan de, 202
Arrow heads, prehistoric, as charms, in Etruscan jewellery, 25
" " " medl. jewellery, 122
_Art Nouveau_, 337, 338
Arundel, Eleanor, Countess of, 113
Ashbee, C. R., 339
Ashmole, Elias, 238
Ashmolean Museum. _See_ Oxford
Asia Minor, 8, 14
Assyria, 7, 8
Assyrian art, 12
Athelney, Isle of, 68
Athene, 16
Athens, National Museum, 11
Attavante, M., 175
Augsburg, goldsmiths, 192
" jewellery made at, 202, 203, 205
" in 16 cent., 180, 189, 198, 210
Augustine, St., 65, 66
Augustus, Emperor, cameo of, 103
" II, Elector of Saxony, 310, 311
_Aulmonière_, 165
Autun, Gallo-Roman enamelled jewellery found at, 46
Auvergne, peasant jewellery, 342-3

Babelon, E. C. F, 266
Bacchus, 24
Backwell, Edward, 305
Bacon, Sir F., 100
Bactria, 51
Baden, Margraves of, 250, 261
Badges, 116, 365
" for hats, medl., 107-12
" English, 16-17 cent., 257
" pendent, medl. 110
" " Spanish, 17 cent., 204
Bags, at girdles, Anglo-Saxon, 63
_Bague_, 258
_Bagues à trois grains_, 73
Bain, P., 282
Baldrick, 93, 164
Baldung, Hans. _See_ Grien
Baldwin, K. of Jerusalem, 119
Baltic, amber from, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
Balzac, H. de, 331
_Bandeau_, French, 19 cent., 329
" Italian, 15 cent., 107
Bannatyne Club, 220
Bapst, G., 335
Barbarian tribes, migrations of, 49
Barbaric jewellery of Europe, 49-55
Barbor jewel, 218, 254
" William, 254
Barcelona, goldsmiths of, 202, 204
Barclay, A., 236
Baroncelli, Pierantonio, Maria, wife of, 114, 286
Barnfield, R., 265
Barrows, or graves, Anglo-Saxon, 57
Bars of girdles, medl., 162 n.
Basalt, 5
Basil, xlv
Basil the Macedonian, Emperor, 34
Basle, Historical Museum, 192
_Basse-taille_ enamel. _See_ Enamel
Bast, 6
Batrachites, 151
Battersea enamel, 320
Bauer, Hermann, 339
Baumann, D., 309
Bavaria, Dukes of, 194, 248
Bavarian National Museum. _See_ Munich
_Baudrier_, 164
Beaded work, 19 cent., 327
Beads, Anglo-Saxon, 58
" or balls of gold, on Anglo-Saxon rings, 73
" ancient British, 40
" " Irish, 42
" Egyptian, 4-6
" filigree, for perfumes, 265
" glass, Romano-British, 45
" jet, Romano-British, 47
" Phoenician, 10
" Roman, 29
" rosary, 124-5
Beatrice D'Este, Duchess of Milan, 172
_Beams_, of gypcières, 165
Beaumont and Fletcher (quoted), 265
Bede, The Venerable, 67
Bees, gold, jewelled, 53
Belgium, peasant jewellery, 345-6
Belisarius, 33
Bells, hung from medl. girdles, 164
" " Renaiss. pendants, 250
Belts, xlv, xlvi
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 159-65
" " resemblence to fillets, 105
" military, medl., 163-4
Bentzen, J., 284
Berengaria, of Navarre, Q. of England, xliii, 128
Beresford-Hope cross, 36
Berghem, Louis de, 209, 277
Berkeley Castle, 73, 218, 253, 265, 266
" Elizabeth, Lady, dau. of Lord Hunsdon, 218
" family, 274
" heirlooms, 218
" Thomas, Lord, 116
Berlin, Crown Treasury, 251
" iron jewellery made in, 330
" Museums, 3, 9, 139
" " pictures in, 90, 106, 168, 261
Bernal, Ralph, 133
Berne, 210
" Museum, 64
Bernhard III, Margrave of Baden, 261
Bettystown, Co. Louth, 78
_Betnüsse_, 125
Beuvray, Mont, near Autun, 46
Bezel, xlv
Bezoar stone, 122
Bibracte, 46 n.
_Bijouterie_, 277
"Billy and Charley," 360
Bilston enamel, 320
Bindesböll, T., 339
Birckenhultz, P., 231, 234, 281
Birds on Teutonic jewellery, 57, 58
" " Renaiss. pendants, 249
Birmingham, steelwork, 315, 319
_Bisamapfel_, 275 n.
Black Sea, 14
Blondus. _See_ Le Blon.
Boccardi, Giovanni di Guiliano, 175
Bodkins (hair-pins), Renaiss., 232, 233
Bodleian Library. _See_ Oxford.
Boehmer, 318
Boethius, 100
"Boglars," 198
Bohemia, medl. pendants, 121
" Renaiss. jewellery, 188
_Boîte à portrait_, 320
Bollin, M., 339
Bologna, Church of S. Maria della Misericordia, 170
" Picture Gallery, 170
Bömmel, W. H., 309
Bonny, Louis, 338
Books, pendent to girdle, 272-4
Bordier, P., 304
Bordone, Paris, 263
Borghese, Marie Pauline, Princess, 329
Borgia, Cæsar, 100
Bossange, 318
Bossington (near Stockbridge), 73
Bosworth Jewel, 219
Bothwell, Earl of, 221
Botticelli, Sandro, 169
Boucheron, Messrs., 340
Boulton and Watt, 315
Bourchier, Lord, 110
Bouquet, D., 297
Bouquets, jewelled, 17 cent., 281, 290
" " on the breast, 18 cent., 318
_Bouquets d'orfévrerie_, 295
Bourdon, Pierre, 309
Bourguet, Jean, 309, 320
Bow, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 204, 294
" " " " 18 cent., 308, 318
Bow-shaped brooches, Romano-British, 46
Bowles, Thomas, 310
Boyvin, René, 201, 265
Bracelets, xliv
" Byzantine, 37
" clasps, memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368
" Egyptian, 6
" Etruscan, 25
" Greek, 10
" hair, 19 cent., 331
" ancient Irish, 42
" medl., 157-8
" Renaiss., 264-7
" " designs for, 265, 269
" Roman, 30
" Romano-British, 47
" 17 cent., 294
" 18 cent., 309, 313, 319, 320
" 19 cent., 329
_Brachiale_, 30
_Bracteæ_, Greek, 19
Bracteate coins, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
Bracteates, gold, 13
Brandenburg, Fred. William, Elector of, 238
Brantôme, 181, 200
"Bravery," 299
Braybrooke collection of rings, 264
Brazil diamonds, 351
Breast ornaments, medl., 135, etc.
" 17 cent., 204, 294
" 18 cent., 308, 318
Bremen, Kunsthalle, 190
"Brethren," "The Three." _See_ "Brothers"
Briceau, 309
_Briolettes_, 291, 317, 343
Bristol diamond, 259, 357
Britain, invasion of, by Teutonic races, 56
" Roman occupation of, 44
British Isles, prehistoric jewellery, 39
British Museum. _See_ London
Britons, 39
_Broche_, 127
Broighter, near Limavady, 43
Bromsgrove Church, 154
Bronze Age, 39
" ornaments, British, 39, 41, 45
Bronzino, Angelo, 233
Brooches, xl-xliv
" Anglo-Saxon, xlii, xliii, 50, 59-62, 70
" Byzantine, 36, 37, 70
" Celtic, xlii-xliv, 74-9, 131
" circular, xlii, xliv
" cruciform, xlii, 61
" disc-shaped, xlii, xliii
" Flemish-Burgundian, 15 cent., 143-6
" Greek, 18, 19
" hair, 19 cent., 331
" hat, 108. _See also_ Enseignes
" by Holbein, 212
" Italian, 15 cent., 174
" Luckenbooth, 133-4, 165
" medl., 121, 127, 144
" " English, 93, 94
" " inscriptions on, 128-30
" " pectorals, 135-46
" memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368
" penannular, xlii, xliii, 74-9
" radiated, 63
" Renaiss., 267
" ring-brooch, xlii, xliv, xlv, 62, 127-34
" Romano-British, 45-7
" safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41
" Scandinavian, 62
" Scottish, 131-4
" on sleeves, 267
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 309, 312
" _See also_ Fibulæ
Brosamer, Hans, 193, 198, 205, 250
"Brothers," "The Three Brothers," 209, 210, 300
Brueghel, Jan, 287
Bruges, 89, 114, 277
" goldsmith's shop in, 15 cent., 155
" port of, 15 cent., 167
Brunswick, Dorothea, Elizabeth, and Hedwig, Princesses of, 245
Brussels, Musée du Cinquantenaire, 106, 271
" Alexander of, 208
Bruyn, Abraham de. _See_ De Bruyn
" Bartholomäus, 189
Bry, Theodor de, 195, 196, 219
Brythons, 39
Bucharest, Museum of Antiquities, 52
Buckingham, George Villiers, Duke of, 210, 230, 235, 300
Buckle, xlv, xlvi
" design for, by Aldegrever, 194
" " " " de Bry, 196
" " " " Dürer, 191
" -plate, xlvi, 159, 160
Buckles, Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 159-60
" pinchbeck, 316
" shoe, 18 cent., 321
" steel, 315
" stock, 18 cent., 322
" Teutonic, 64
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312, 322
Buda-Pesth, National Museum, 112, 157, 198
Bugles, 10, 319
Bull, H. de. _See_ De Bull
_Bullæ_, Etruscan, 24, 25
" Roman, 29
Bulliot, J. G., 46 n.
Buonaparte, Caroline, Q. of Naples, 329
Burgh, Hebert de, 151
Burgkmair, H., 189
Burgundian Court, luxury of, 88-90
Burgundians (Gothic tribe), 50
Burgundy, Dukes of, 88-9, 114, 143
Bussy d'Amboise, 123 n.
"Butterflies," 316
Buttons, jet, Romano-British, 47
" memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368
" Renaiss., 267-8
" steel, 315
" 18 cent., 319, 320
Byron, Lord, 331
Byzantine, cloisonné enamel, 66
" influence on medl. jewellery, 83-5, 157
" jewellery, 33-8
Byzantium, 33

C., A., 284
Cabalistic inscriptions on medl. rings, 152
Cabochon stones, 88, 96, 97
Cadboll brooches, 77
Cære, 25
Caillard, J., 282
_Caillou d' Alençon_, 343
" _du Rhin_, 357
Cairngorms, 133
Cairo, Museum, 3, 5
Callot, J., 282
Cambridge, Fitzwilliam Museum, 225
" King's College, 115
Camden, W., 94
Cameos, antique, in medl. jewellery, 138
" in bracelets, Renaiss., 264, 266
" in bracelets, 18 cent., 320
" Elizabethan, 217-18
" medl. use of antique, 101-4
" in mourning jewellery, 369
" Renaiss., 226
" " enseignes, 227-8
" " pendants, 245-6
" Roman, 30
" 19 cent., 326-31
Campbells of Glenlyon, 132
Canning, Lord, 249
Canosa, 70
Canterbury Cathedral, 108 n., 109
" " Chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, 140
_Canterbury Tales_, 161, etc.
Cappello, Bianca, 233, 350
_Caracts_, 132
Caract rings, 152
Caradosso, 168, 227
Caravel, or carvel, 246
Carberry Hill, 221
_Carcan_, 317
_Carcanets_, 114
" Renaiss., 239
Carlyle, T., 318
Carmichael, Sir T. D. Gibson, 224
Caroto, G., 172
Carrand Collection. _See_ Florence, Museo Nazionale
Carteron, S., 205
Cassel Gallery, 296
_Cassolette_, 275 n.
Castellani, 22, 346, 359
" Alessandro, 333, 334
" Augusto, 333, 334
" Fortunato Pio, 333, 334
" brooch, 70
Cast-iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330-1
Catherine Parr, Q. of England, 252
Caucasus, 50
Cavalcant, John, 208
_Ceinture_, 105, 159
" _ferrée_, 161
_Ceinturier_, 270
Cellini, B., 21, 22, 169, 171, 179, 183-6, 192, 196, 197, 199, 201,
202, 208, 222, 227, 228, 241, 273, 278, 351
Celtic brooch, 74, 75-9, 131
" jewellery, 11, 39
" Period (late), 39, 43
Celts, 40
_Cercles_, 93, 105
"Cerro de los Santos," 9
Cervetri, 25
Cesarini, Gabriele, 228
Chains, ancient Irish, 43
" Egyptian, 5
" Phoenician, 9
" neck, 19 cent., 331
Chains, worn round the neck. _See also_ Necklaces and Neck-chains
Chalke, Agnes, 106
Chamberlain, John, 299
Chamillart, Mdme de, 314, 320
_Chansons_, 152
Chantilly, 168, 185
Chape of girdle, xlvi, 160, 271
_Chapeau montabyn (montauban)_, 224, 231
_Chapelet_, 125
_Chapeletz_, 93, 105
_Chaperon_, 156, 229
Chaplets, medl., 105
Chardin, Sir John, 278, 305
Charity, figure of, on Renaiss. pendants, 244
Charlemagne, 55, 65, 83, 84, 118
Charles I, K. of England, 210, 219, 230, 288, 300, 304, 305, 354
" I, K. of England, earrings of, 235, 354
" I, K. of England, memorial jewellery of, 367
" II, K. of England, 292, 305
" V, K. of France, 88, 199
" " " cameo of, 103, 130
" VIII, K. of France, 199
" IX " " 199, 200
" the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, 107, 209, 231
" the Great, Emperor of the West. _See_ Charlemagne
Charlotte, Q. of England, 313, 317
Charms, 99-104, 111-120
Chartres, Treasury of, 103
Châteaubriand, Countess of, 181
Chatelaines, xlvii
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 161
" pinchbeck, 316
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312, 313, 322, 323
_Chaton_, xlv
Chaucer, 93, 94, 109, 129, 130 n., 164
Chelsea, ring found at, 73
Chepstow, Monmouthshire, 46
Chéron, 314
Chiflet, J. J., 53
Child, Sir Francis, 305, 306
Child's Bank, 306
Childeric I, K. of the Franks, 51, 52, 53
" " ring of, 63
Chlotaire II, K. of the Franks, 59
Christian V, K. of Denmark, 238
Christianity, introduction of, change in jewellery owing to, 65, 66
" introduction of into Ireland, 75
Christie's Auction Rooms, 247, 256
Christina, Q. of Sweden, 284
Christopher, St., 142
Christus, Petrus, 155, 222, 263
Ciampoli, Carlo, 309, 317
_Cingulum_, 163
Circlets, xxxix
" medl., 106
Clanricarde, Marquess of, 249
Clarendon brooch, 78
Clasps, xl
" of girdle, xlv, xlvii
" " medl., 160, 163
" of mantle, medl., 140, 141
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312
Clifford, Lord, 354
Cloth of Gold, Field of, 207, 237
Cloisonné enamel. _See_ Enamel
" inlay, 3, 35, 50, 56
Coats-of-arms on rings, 31, 153
Cobra snake, 2
Coello, A. S., 294
Coiffure, Phoenician, 9
" _See also_ Head-ornaments
Coins in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
" in Byzantine jewellery, 36
" in Roman jewellery, 30, 32
Colbert, J. B., 282
Collar, gold, ancient Irish, 43
" of Order of Golden Fleece, 90
" of Lord Mayor of London, 117
" SS collar, 116-17
Collars, Egyptian, 5
" medl., 113-117
" _See also_ Necklaces
Collaert, H., 194, 196, 197, 234, 247
_Collet_, xlv
_Collier_ of Marie Antoinette, 318
Cologne Cathedral, 111, 145
Cologne, Episcopal museum, 145
" Wallraf-Richartz museum, 145
Columban, 66
Combs, Empire, 19 cent., 328
" jewelled, medl., 107
" 19 cent., 329
Comines, Philip de, 109, 110
Commonwealth, England, 305
Compostella, 109
" shrine of St. James, 91
Conques, 102, 137
" Treasury, 112, 137
Consolavera, J. B. de, 208
Constantine, 33, 226
Constantinople, 33, 34, 49
" foundation of, 33
" sack of, 38
Coral, in Dutch peasant jewellery, 345
" medl. use of, 123
" 19 cent., 328
Corbeil, Our Lady of, 137
Corbizi, Litti di Filippo, 175
Cornaro, Catarina, 264
_Cornette_, 107
Cornish diamonds, 357
Coronals, Italy, 15 cent., 169
" medl., 106
" round hat, 224
Coronets, 106 n.
" medl., 106
" 19 cent., 328
Corsage, jewelled, 308
_Cosse de pois_ ornament, 281, 293, 297
Costantini, G. B., 284
_Côtehardi_, 267
_Coulant_, 342, 345
Counterfeit, 355
" stones sold to Henry VIII, 208
_Courroye_, 270
Coventry, St. Mary's Hall, 115
" ring, 150
Cramp, rings worn against, 152
Cranach, Lucas, 189, 238, 250, 259, 261, 264
Crapaudine, 151
Crete, 8
Crimea, 9, 12, 14, 50
Crivelli, Carlo, 167
" Lucrezia, 172
Cromwell, Oliver, 293, 294, 305
" Thomas, 208, 213
Crosby, Sir John, 115
Cross, pendent, Byzantine, 36
" " medl., 118
" " peasant, 342
" " Renaiss., 242-3
" the True, relics of, 118
" Visigothic (Guarrazar), 54
_Crotalia_, 28
Crown, Alfred Jewel, as ornament of a, 69
" of Thorns, relic of, 118, 119
Crowns, xxxix, 106
" Byzantine, 35
" Greek, 17
" Mycenæan, 11
" Scandinavian peasant, 346
" Visigothic, 53, 54
Croy, Celtic brooch from, 77
Crusaders, 34
Crusades, influence on jewellery, 101
" jewellery brought back from, 84, 93
Cryspyn, John, 208
Crystal, 313, 342, 343, 347, 356, 357
" of Lothair, 139
_Cuir bouilli_, 97
Cunynghame, H. H., 35, 86, 339
Cupreous glaze, 2
Cuthbert, St., 68
Cyprus, 8, 10, 12, 21

D., A., 285
Dagobert, K. of the Franks, 155, 222
Dalton, O. M., 34 n, 51 n.
Dance of Death, 363
Danes, invasion of, 68
Danube, Irish missionaries on, 67
" valley, enamel-work, 198
Dark Ages, 51
Darnley, Henry, 217
" jewel, 217, 257
Dartrey, Earl of, 288
Dashûr, 5
Dauffe, 319
Dauphin, badge of, 110
Davenport, C. J. H. (quoted), 71
David, Gerard, 140, 155, 263
" J. L., 326, 329
Davies, G. S. (quoted), 351, 352
Davillier, Baron C., 202, 249
Davy, William, 208
Dawson, Nelson, 339
Death's head, 364-7
De Boot, A., 100
Debruge-Duménil collection, 130, 245
De Bruyn, Abraham, 197
De Bull, H., 284
Defontaine, J., 282
De Heem, Jan, 287
De Heere, Lucas, 252, 352
De la Quewellerie. _See_ La Quewellerie
Delaune, Etienne, 197, 201, 272
De Leeuw, John, 155
_Demi-ceint_, or _demysent_, 164
Desborough (Northants), 74
_Devant de corsage_, 318
Devices, 223
" on Elizabethan jewellery, 216-7
" Renaiss., sewn to garments, 268
_Devise_, 223, 365
_Dextrocherium_, 30
Diadems, xxxix
" Byzantine, 34
" Egyptian, 3
" Etruscan, 23
" Greek, 16, 17
" medl., 106
" " English, 93
" Phoenician, 9
" Roman, 28
" 19 cent., 328
_Diamant d' Alençon_, 343
Diamond, 276-9
" of Charles the Bold, 209
" earrings of Marie Antoinette, 317
" necklace of Marie Antoinette, 318
Diamonds, the brilliant, 279
" Bristol, 235, 259 and n.
" cutting of, 230, 277-9
" false, 235, 313, 314, 357
" in pictures, 351
" the "point," 277, 278
" pointed, in rings, 260
" in Renaiss. jewellery, 179
" in rings, 17 cent., 296
" rose cut, 282, 310
" " in Flemish peasant jewellery, 345
" "roses," 278-9
" "table," 278-9
" _taille en seize_, 279
" use of, in early jewellery, 277
" in 18 cent. jewellery, 308, 319
Dickens, Charles (quoted), 369
Dietrich, 339
_Dinanderie_, 112 n.
Dinglinger, George Friedrich, 310
" Johann Melchior, 310
" " " (junior), 311
Dinteville, Jean de, 365
Dionysius of Halicarnassus, 20
Dionysos, 24
Diptychs, pendent, medl., 119-20
Directory, 325-6
Discs of gold. _See_ Plates of gold
Dog (Talbot), on Renaiss. pendants, 249
"Dombild," 145
Dorchester House. _See_ London
Douce, Francis, 53, 264
Douglas, Lady Margaret, 217
Douffet, Gerard, 296
Dove, symbol of Holy Ghost, 249
" in peasant jewellery, 343
Dowgate Hill brooch, 69
Dragon, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249
Drake, Sir Francis, 253, 266, 354
" Sir F. Fuller-Eliott, 218, 230 n., 253
" jewels, 218, 230 n., 353
Drawings for jewellery by Barcelona goldsmiths, 202
Drawings for jewellery by Sir F. Child, 306
" " by Dürer, 190
" " by Holbein, 210-213
" " by Lulls, 302
" " by Mielich, 195
" " by the Santini family, 308
Drury Fortnum. _See_ Fortnum
Dresden, Picture Gallery, 261
" Grüne Gewölbe, 251, 311
Dress, ornaments sewn on, ancient Irish, 43
" " " Renaiss., 268
Dress-fasteners, prehistoric, xliii
" " ancient British, 41
Dressche, Reinecke van, 139
Du Barry, Madame, 317
Du Bellay, G., 207
Dublin, Irish National Museum, 42, 44, 77, 78
" National Gallery of Ireland, 250
" Royal Irish Academy, 42, 78
" Trinity College, 78
Dubois, Paul, 339
Ducerceau. _See_ Androuet Ducerceau
Duflos, August, 312, 317
Du Fresnoy, C. A., 353
Dunstan, St., 67
Dürer, A., 185, 187, 190, 191, 250
Du Suau de la Croix, Comte, 338
Duvet, Jean, 200

"Eagle Fibula," 135
Eagle stones, 122
Eanred, 72
Earle, J., 69
Ear-picks, Renaiss., 250-1
Earrings, xxxix, xl
" Anglo Saxon, 58
" ancient British, 40
" Byzantine, 35, 37
" " in Middle Ages, 112
" Egyptian, 4
" English, 16-17 cent., 234-5
" Etruscan, 23
" Frankish, 58
" Greek, 15, 16
" medl., 112, 113
" " English, 92
" worn by men, 234-5, 332
" Merovingian, 58
" Phoenician, 9
" Renaiss., 233-5
" Roman, 28-9
" 17 cent., 291
" 18 " 309, 317
" 19 " 328
East Anglia, 60
Edict of Nantes, 305
Edinburgh, High Street, 133
" St. Giles' Church, 133
" National Museum of Antiquities, 77, 132, 150, 165
Edmer, 92
Edward the Confessor, K. of England, 92, 102, 118
" I, K. of England, 67, 92
" II " 93, 162
" III " 93, 121, 161, 162
" IV " 115, 116
" VI " 218, 219
" " " Prayer Book of, 274
" VII " 217, 224
Effigies, sepulchral, jewellery on, 82
Eglentine, Prioress, jewel worn by, 129
Egyptian jewellery, 1-7, 49
Elché, "Lady of," 9, 10
Electrum, primitive Italy, 24
_Elenchi_, 28
Eligius, St. _See_ Eloy
Elizabeth, Q. of Bohemia, 301
" " England, 213-20, 232, 234, 237, 239, 251-256,
265, 267, 269, 273, 301
" Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino, 172
Eloy, or Eloi, St., 67, 155
Emeralds, Spanish, 205
Empire jewellery, 326
Enamel, 49
" Battersea, 320
" _basse-taille_, 87, 97, 138
" Bilston, 320
" Byzantine, 35
" Celtic, 41
" champlevé, English, 16 cent., 211
" " medl., 85, 138
" " Romano-British, 45
" " on rings, 17 cent., 295
" " Spanish, 17 cent., 204
" " 16-17 cent., 283 etc.
" " 17 cent., 292
" cloisonné, 70, 136, 283
" " Anglo-Saxon, 66, 68
" " Byzantine, 35, 36
" " medl., 84
" " Tara brooch, 66, 78
" Egyptian, 3
" _émail en blanc_, 87
" _émail en résille sur verre_, 273, 293, 296
" _émail en ronde bosse_, 87, 225
" English 16 cent., 216
" " 18 " 313
" "filigree enamel," (_Draht-Email_), 198, 347
" French, 18 cent., 311, 312
" Gallo-Roman, 46
" "gold wire," 224
" Greek, 13, 15, 17
" Hispano-Moresque, 205
" Irish, 66, 78
" Limoges, medl., 86
" " Renaiss. for enseignes, 229
" "Louis Treize," 286, 289, 293
" medl., 84-88
" opaque, French, 16 cent., 199, 200
" painted, 346, 347
" " on peasant jewellery, 344, 347
" " 17 cent., 285, 292, 293, 295
" Renaiss., 180
" Romano-British, 45
" Toutin firing an, 285, 289
" transluscent, 17 cent., 283
" " 18 " 312
" " _See_ _Basse-taille_
" white, _émail en blanc_, 87
" 17 cent., general, 283, 298
" " on watches, 297
" 18 cent., 312
" 19 cent., revival of, 337
England, medl. jewellery, 91-98
" 16 cent. jewellery, 206-221
" 17 " " 299-306
" 18 " " 310
Engraved designs for jewellery, English, 18 cent., 310, 312
Engraved designs for jewellery, French, 16 cent., 200, 201
Engraved designs for jewellery, Flemish, 16 cent., 196, 197
Engraved designs for jewellery, German, 16 cent., 186-7, 191-4
Engraved designs for jewellery, 17 cent., 280-9, 291-8
Engraved designs for jewellery, 18 cent., 308-10, 312, 320
Engraved gems, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154
" " medl. use of, 101-4
" " in rings, Romano-British, 47
" " 16 cent., 227, 245
" " 19 cent., 326, 327
Enkomi, Cyprus, 12
Enseignes, 156, 169
" medl., 107-111, 146
" Renaiss., 222-230, 267
" with skulls, 364, 365
"Equipage," 323
Erasmus, D., 109
Eros, 15, 16
_Escarcelle_, 165
"Esclavo," 204
_Escoffion_, 107, 156
_Esguillettes_, 269
_Espreuves_, 123
Essen, Treasury of, 143
" medl. brooches at, 143-145
Essence d'orient, 358
Estampes, Duchess of, 181
Este, Beatrice d', Duchess of Milan. _See_ Beatrice
" Isabella d', Marchioness of Mantua. _See_ Isabella
_Estrennes_, 153, 213
Ethelbert, K. of Kent, 65
Ethelswith, 71
" ring of, 72
Ethelwulf, K. of Wessex, 71
" ring of, 72
Ethred, 72
Eton College, 115
Etruscan goldsmiths, 8
" jewellery, 20-26, 333
Étuis, Eng., 18 cent., 309, 310, 323
" pinchbeck, 316
" Renaiss., 272
Eudel, P., 360, 362
_Euphues_, 273
Eustachio, Fra, 175
Evans, A. J., 43
" Sir J., 47, 62, 296
Evelyn, John, 298, 299, 367
Evil Eye, 164, 250
"Exeter Book," 57
Exmewe, Thomas, 208
_Ex voto_, 136
Eyck, van, 106
" John van, 90, 155
Eyelets, Renaiss., 268
Eymaker, 310