Chapter I: Part 1

Transcriber’s Note
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LINOTYPE MECHANISM

By ALVIN G. SWANK and
RAYMOND MEANS

Published by
SWANK AND MEANS
729 N. Bosart Ave.
Indianapolis, Indiana

COPYRIGHTED 1924
PRINTED IN U. S. A.

_Preface_

Changes and improvements on the Linotype have been frequent in the past, and will probably continue to be so in the future. For this reason students, operators, machinists, and owners should keep themselves posted on all matters pertaining to the Linotype. The only way this can be accomplished is by reading, studying, and observing. All books, pamphlets, or trade journals dealing with printing should be carefully read, and the articles pertaining to improvements on typesetting machinery should be carefully studied. Pamphlets or trade journals will either be discarded or lost; whereas a book will be placed on the desk, bench, or in the pocket of the one who desires to be well informed of things dealing with the machine. Frequent reading or reference will refresh the memory on minor points forgotten or overlooked.

This book has been produced as an endeavor to furnish a much-needed text or reference book for the aid of the Linotype student, the user, and the experienced worker. Simple terms, which will enable the student to grasp the fundamentals quickly, have been used throughout the book, but when the name of a part is necessary, the catalog name is used. No illustrations are used, as the book is intended for use where the actual machine is available for study, and the parts may be seen. The main parts of the machine are listed with a description of their action and function. Mechanical troubles that are common to the Linotype are mentioned, together with helpful suggestions for their remedy. All adjustments necessary to the proper care of the machine are listed. The user of Linotypes will find helpful hints as to the care and adjustments of the machines.

In the schools using machines, this book will fill a long-felt want. It is the first attempt to write a text book of this nature that can be used in lesson form. The class schedule will lead the student to a systematic study of the machine. The text matter is so arranged that the student is led in a natural way through the things he should know first. With the schedule arrangement the instructor is enabled to arrange his mechanism classes at any hour or as many hours as he desires.

THE KEYBOARD

The linotype keyboard is power driven and mechanically operated, the operator merely touching the keybutton lightly to get a matrix. The keyboard and escapement mechanism consists of ninety-one mechanical units, or series of levers, escapements, and cams—one series for each key on the keyboard.

The keyboard consists of the frame; the keylevers, extending through the slots to the back of the keyboard frame; the keylever fulcrum rods, which are the pivot rods for the keylevers; the keybars, that groove into the rear end of the keylevers; the keybar banking bar, (fastened to the right- and left-hand keyboard posts), holding the keybars in place; and the keyboard locking bar. The various parts of the keyboard are held in their respective places by the keyboard frame.

Mounted on the top, at the rear of the keyboard, are the two cam yoke frames. The keyboard cam yoke frames contain the cams and the cam yokes, assembled; the cam yoke triggers; the cam stop strips; the hinge rods; the keyboard cam rubber roll shafts, with the pulleys or the gears and friction springs; and the rubber rolls, assembled. The frames are fastened to the keyboard posts by a screw at each end of the frame, which extends through the rubber roll shaft brackets. Both the frames are equipped with cover pans.

The keyboard action for releasing a matrix from the magazine is as follows: When the keybutton is depressed it lowers the outer end of the keylever, raising the back end. The keylever raises the keybar. The keybar raises the lower end of the trigger, causing the upper end to tilt. This allows the free end of the cam yoke to drop, causing the cam to engage the revolving rubber roll. The cam is revolved by the rubber roll, and as it reaches the high point it raises the free end of the cam yoke. This end of the cam yoke engages the keyrod and causes it to be raised. The keyrod operates the escapement mechanism in the magazine and releases the matrix.

KEYBOARD PARTS

The keylevers extend through slots in the keyboard frame and are pivoted near their center by the fulcrum rods. The front end of the keylevers carry the keybuttons and the back ends fit into notches in the keybars.

The keybars are held in place on the back of the keyboard by the banking bar and the upper and lower keybar guides. The keybars have notches on the upper end into which the triggers set. Also there are notches into which the keylevers extend. These notches are cut at different points on each six keybars, to correspond with the point at which the keylever protrudes through the frame.

On the late model machines the keybars are made with notches so they will fit in any alternate position, each bar having three notches, any one of which will register with the keylever. In removing the bars for cleaning, always take them off in groups of six and keep them in order so that no difficulty will be experienced in replacing them. It is always better to replace each bar in its original place after having them off.

The keyboard locking bar extends across the back of the keyboard, just above a shoulder on the keybars. When this bar is forced down it prevents the keybar from being raised, thus locking the keyboard.

KEYBOARD CAMS AND PARTS

The keyboard cams are small, brass, non-circular or eccentric pieces and are used to raise the cam yokes to operate the keyrods. The cams are pivoted and held in place in cam yokes. The outer end of the cam yokes are pivoted to the frame, while the inner ends are left free to move up or down in slots in the frame, directly underneath the keyrods.

When the cams are setting at normal, the free end of the yokes are supported by the pivoted triggers, which set directly beneath the yokes. When a trigger is moved by the keybar, it allows the free end of the yoke to drop, carrying the cam against the revolving rubber roll. The low part of the cam has small teeth cut in it, so when it drops on the revolving rubber roll, it is caused to turn. When the high part of the revolving cam is on the rubber roll, the free end of the cam yoke is raised to its highest point, raising the keyrod.

There are ninety-one cams and yokes in a keyboard. In order to get the cams in the smallest possible space, forty-five of them are located in the front frame, and forty-six in the back frame. The cam on the right-hand end of the back row is used to operate the spaceband lever.

A stop strip is fastened by means of six screws to each cam frame in such a manner that the small cross pins in the revolving cams come in contact with small pins which extend downward, stopping the cams after their revolution and holding them in normal position. The front strip has forty-five teeth and the rear strip has forty-six teeth; therefore they are not interchangeable. The strip should be located so the teeth do not bind the sides of the cams.

The top row of keys on the keyboard operate the cams in the back frame, the keys in the second row operate the cams in the front frame, the third in the back, etc., alternating for each row, so when tracing keyboard troubles it is known in which frame an offending cam will be found.

Several types of cam yokes have been manufactured for the various models of machines. Some are made of brass, others are stamped out of steel, while still another kind is milled out of a solid piece of steel. Different methods of fastening the pivoted end of the yoke have also been used. The older models were held by a pivot wire which ran through the yoke. The later models, however, have spring bars which set just above the pivoted end of the yoke, the yoke being hooked on the hinge rod and held down by a spring and plunger directly above the yoke, in the bar. This spring and plunger takes the strain off the yoke and keyrod when in an unusually heavy pull, and prevents damage to the rubber rolls.

On the top of the spring bar is an adjusting screw bushing through which the plunger projects. This plunger is forced against the top of the cam yoke by a spring. As the free end of the cam yoke raises, the spring must be strong enough to hold the pivoted end of the yoke from raising more than enough to give the full stroke of the keyrod. If something prevents the free movement of the escapement, the strain would come to the pivoted end of the yoke, forcing the plunger up, thus releasing the keyrod, cam, or rubber roll of undue strain. If this spring becomes weak, it will allow the pivoted end of the yoke to raise too high, thus lessening the up stroke of the keyrod. This shortened stroke of the keyrod does not permit the full stroke operation of the escapement, and does not allow the matrix to drop.

A weak spring will sometimes cause the matrix to drop slowly, due to the lug of the matrix binding on the lower pawl. By using the adjusting bushing this trouble can be remedied. Be careful in adjusting the spring, because too much tension will cause the cam to cut the rubber roll.

On some models the spaceband cam is of a different shape or larger than the other cams. This is done to accomplish the timing of the dropping of the spacebands.

To remove a single cam from the frame, shut off the power of the machine, take off the cover pans, touch the keybutton of the desired cam, draw out the pivot wire on old models or release the latch and tilt the spring bar on new models, turn the rubber rolls by hand until the end of the cam yoke raises, then lift the yoke and cam out.

KEYBOARD RUBBER ROLLS

The rubber rolls are held on shafts which extend through the cam frame. The right end of the shafts run in bushings which are held in the cam frame by a screw extending through the cam frame bracket into the shaft bushing. Two kinds of rubber rolls may be obtained: corrugated and ground. The rolls must be kept free from oil at all times. About once each month they should be removed and washed with soap and water to remove all oil, and freshen the rubber. The rubber roll may be livened up by the use of course sandpaper, rubbing from end to end and turning the roll so it does not become flat. The roll should be washed after using the sandpaper to remove the small particles of rubber that may be adhering to the surface.

If the rubber rolls become worn until they are grooved where the cams operate on them, or if they become hard with long use, they should be replaced with new rubber. Good, live rubber rolls have much to do with quick, even response of the matrices.

A rubber roll that is in good shape with the exception of a groove or two, can be used by cutting out the worn parts and placing in a good piece of another roll and fitting it to the shaft. Save parts of old rubber rolls for this purpose. They at least may be valuable for emergency patching, until a new roll can be ordered from the factory.

The rubber roll shafts are driven by friction, so that if anything binds unduly the shaft will stop, preventing damage to the rubber.

To replace a rubber roll, remove the old roll, polish the shaft, using care to clean thoroughly. A new roll must fit tightly and if the shaft is not clean and smooth, it will be hard to force the new roll on. Place the shaft in an upright position, start the end of the roll through the pulley end of the shaft. Place your thumb or hand over the other end of the roll to hold in the air and push down on the roll until it is in position.

On the later models the shaft carries a collar, pin, and oil collar on each end. This assembly must be removed on one end before the roll can be removed. The collar is held to the shaft by a taper pin and the oil collar forced over the top of the pin and collar. This oil collar must be pried off before the pin can be driven out.

KEYBOARD TROUBLES

Many of the mechanical troubles will be found in the keyboard, such as continuous response or non-response of matrices.

The keylevers sometimes get gummy or sprung to one side and bind on the frame, causing a continuous response of matrices. Another cause for continuous response may often be traced to some foreign substance such as metal shavings or dirt getting between the keylever and the frame.

A large percentage of keyboard troubles can be traced to the keybars. Most continuous response trouble is due to dirty or sticking keybars. These bars have several points of contact with other parts, and frequently a very small particle of dirt or dust will prevent the proper return of the keybar after being raised. This will hold the trigger out from under the cam yoke, which will continue to revolve and cause more than one matrix to drop. This trouble can usually be remedied by blowing out all dust from around the keybars and then washing them with gasoline, using a squirt can or brush to apply the gasoline. Before applying the gasoline, it is best to place a pan or cloth beneath the keybars to catch the surplus gasoline.

Be very careful not to get any gasoline on the cams or rubber rolls, as it will cut the lubrication on the yoke pivot and soften the rubber roll. After washing the bars, blow the surplus gasoline off with an air hose or bellows. Keep the air from the keyboard cams as much as possible, as it has a tendency to dry the oil on the yoke pivot pins, causing slow moving cams.

Sometimes the trouble is above the keybar banking bar. In this case it will be necessary to remove the back cam frame to clean the bars above the banking bar.

Should the keyboard locking bar become loose it may drop down a trifle and, preventing free action of the keybars, make the keyboard touch heavy.

In addition to the continuous response caused by the keylever or keybar, sometimes a dirty and sticking trigger or the trigger hinge rod being bent will cause this trouble. If one of the pins in the stop strip or the cam becomes worn or broken, the cam will continue to revolve.

Some of the common troubles of non-response might be caused by the free end of the cam yoke being dirty or gummy, a rusty, gummy, or bent cam yoke hinge rod, not allowing the cam to drop. A dry cam pivot will often prevent the cam from turning. A hard or oily rubber roll will not cause the cam to turn, especially on a cold morning. A tooth on the stop strip being bent sideways might bind the cam. Something binding the rubber roll, not allowing it to revolve, stops all cam response. A dry cam pivot or a sluggish cam will cause transposition of letters.

To locate the cause of a non-response, first observe if the keyrod is moving. If it is, the trouble will probably be found in the magazine or magazine escapement. If the keyrod does not raise, look for the trouble in the keyboard.

Do not take the keyboard apart every time a few matrices fail to respond correctly. It is much quicker to correct the trouble with the individual parts that may be bothering. Always locate the cause of the trouble before attempting to correct it.

KEYBOARD LAYOUT

There are two standard layouts in common use. The one most commonly used, especially in commercial shops, has the small capital layout shown on the keybuttons. The fractions run as side sorts when this layout is used. In the other standard layout the fractions are run in the keyboard. This is frequently used on newspapers for setting markets, stock reports, and tables, where a great number of fractions are used.

There are a variety of different keyboard layouts for different classes of work, but no great variation from the standard layout is advisable.

TO REMOVE THE KEYBOARD CAM FRAMES

Be sure the keyrods are connected to the verges on the models 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5. On the models 1, 2, or 3 the keyboard should not be locked with the locking bar.

Take off the cover pans and the cover tray, remove the two screws that extend through the rubber roll shaft bracket, pull the frame off dowel pins.

CLEANING THE KEYBOARD CAMS

Whenever the keyboard cams become dirty and several of them are causing trouble, the entire set should be removed from the frame and cleaned. Do not take the entire set off, however, every time a cam fails to act. If there are but a few cams bothering, it is much quicker to take out these individual cams and clean them.

The entire set of cams will usually need cleaning and oiling every three or four months in the average shop. Due to some particular shop surroundings, this time often varies.

To clean the cams, remove the keyboard cam frames from the machine; take out the rubber rolls, assembled; release the pivot end of the cam yokes and remove the cams. The sides of the cam yokes at each end and the outer surface of the cam should be thoroughly cleaned. Dry the cam by wiping with a lintless rag and blowing with an air hose or bellows. The triggers should then be removed and cleaned. While the cams and triggers are out of the frame, the frame should be washed clean. Gasoline or denatured alcohol should be used for washing and cleaning the various parts. A jeweler’s brush will be found useful in cleaning the various parts.

Before replacing the triggers, polish them with graphite and string them on a pivot wire to make sure that no dirt nor grit has gotten into the pivot holes during the cleaning.

Clean the rubber rolls before replacing them.

Before replacing the cams in the frame the pivots should be oiled. Use only a good grade of clock or watch oil and put a small drop on the pivot. A broomstraw or ordinary pen will be found convenient for applying the oil. Be sure to wipe off all surplus oil to prevent it being transferred to the rubber rolls.

NOTE—Before replacing the frames in position on the machine, see that the bracket screws that extend into the frame at each end are loose. If the screws draw the brackets too tight, difficulty will be experienced in seating the brackets to the dowels on the posts. Be sure to lock the keyboard cam yoke triggers by running a wire through the upper holes in the triggers. This is done so the triggers will enter the slots in the keybars. See that all cams are in normal position. This is necessary so the cam yokes will pass under the lower end of the keyrods.

TO TAKE A KEYBOARD APART

Whenever it is necessary to take the keyboard apart to clean, it should be removed from the machine in the following manner: Remove the keyboard cam frames. Remove the assembling elevator lever. Procure a strip of wood furniture fifteen inches long, which is the proper length to just pass inside of the frame posts, fasten a strong cord to each end of the wood strip, take off the keyboard locking bar, place the strip of wood along the back of the keybars, bring the string inside of the side posts to the front of the keyboard. Draw the two ends of the string tight, so that the strip can not move, and fasten it to the keylevers. Take out the two keyboard side plate bracket screws (on each side at the rear of the keyboard frame). Take out the four keyboard front plate screws. Remove the two screws which hold the keybar banking bar to the posts and pull the bar off the dowel pins. Pull the frame toward the front of the machine and lift it out. Place the frame on a bench or table in a slightly inclined position with the rear end the higher. Take out the lower row of keylevers by removing the fulcrum rod. Take off the keybars, keeping them in their regular order. Take out the remaining keylevers by removing the fulcrum rods. Wash the keylevers in denatured alcohol or gasoline, brushing vigorously with a jeweler’s brush the parts that come in contact with the frame. If there is any corrosion left, polish the levers with metal polish; wipe them dry with a clean rag. The keybars should be cleaned in a like manner, but rub each side of each keybar on a graphite board instead of using metal polish. Wash the frame of the keyboard thoroughly, and wipe dry. If an air hose is available, blow all the parts dry with the air.

When reassembling the keyboard, work upward. Place the lower row of keylevers in first, run the fulcrum rod through the holes; then assemble the next rows, using the same procedure for each row. This method makes it easy to assemble the keylevers.

After the board has been assembled, test out each key to see that it is working freely, before replacing the strip of wood.

When replacing the banking bar the slot in the keybars must fit over the bar; raise up on all the keybars with the plate extending underneath them until the banking bar dowel pins fit into the dowel pin holes.

It is usually necessary to clean the entire keyboard only once or twice a year unless the shop conditions around the machine are very dirty.

KEYRODS

The keyrods rest just above the free end of the keyboard cam yokes and extend upward to the escapement mechanism. They are the connection between the escapements and the keyboard cams. On the models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrods are numbered from 1 to 90; the spaceband being a short rod, it is not necessary for it to be numbered. They are held in place by two guides. The lower guide is between the cam frames. On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the upper guide is directly under the magazine at the front. The object of the upper guide is to hold the keyrods in place when locking them on the verges, as they should rest squarely on the verges.

On the model 1 the upper guides are adjustable sidewise by changing the position of the brass lug on the right side of the magazine in which the tongue of the guide fits. In making this adjustment use the lower case “p” as a guide. On the models 3 and 5 there is a screw bushing in the right-hand side of the intermediate bracket for the adjustment of the keyrod upper guide.

When replacing keyrods in the guides, start at the left-hand side with the first slot in the bottom guide, but leave the first slot open in the top guide. This guide slot is for an extra keyrod for use in the special double “e” attachment which may be applied.

The keyrods vary in length on the different models. On models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, 9, and K the keyrods are very short and are used to operate a curved lever known as the escapement lever, which in turn operates the escapement.

On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrod is pulled back to its proper position by the keyrod spring. The action of this spring in pulling the keyrod to position stresses the verge spring and pulls the escapement into normal, allowing the rear pawl to release the matrix so it can slide into position to be caught and held by the front pawl.

On models K, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, and 9 the keyrod is returned to position by the weight of the escapement lever, and by its own weight, the verge spring pulling the escapement back into position.

On the later model 1 the keyrods have a groove near the upper ends and a supporting rail attached to the upper guide plate which keeps them from dropping when they are disconnected from the verges.

On the model 5 this supporting rail is near the bottom end of the keyrods, just above the keyrod springs, and is connected to a short handle at the right end above the keyboard. The keyrods can be disconnected from the verges only when the handle is lifted.

AUXILIARY KEYRODS

On models 14 and 19 there is an auxiliary magazine which has 28 channels. There are 28 short keyrods assembled the same as on a model 5. These keyrods are operated by an auxiliary keyboard. There is a supporting rail at the upper end of these keyrods, connected with a handle at the right side of the auxiliary bracket. The keyrods can only be disconnected from the verges when the handle is lifted. These keyrods are disconnected the same as on a model 5 machine.

MODEL FOURTEEN SINGLE KEYBOARD

On the new model 14, known as model 14 single keyboard, there are 34 channels and short keyrods on the auxiliary instead of 28. These keyrods are operated from the regular keyboard. There is a lug pressed in the back of the keyrods. These lugs are staggered on the various keyrods and come in contact with a series of pivoted levers in a box containing 34 of these levers, fastened at the back of the keyrods of the main part of the machine.

The main keyrods, from the figure 1 up to and including the caps (34 in all), have a lug pressed into the back side of them. These lugs are also staggered on the keyrods so they can be brought into contact with the fulcrumed levers in the box. This box is known as a bail box.

The upper keyrod guide slots are made longer for these keyrods to slide back or forth, actuated by a hand lever that is placed below the assembler entrance and resting on the delivery slideway. The auxiliary is brought into operation by shoving back on this lever, which brings the keyrods and lugs in contact with the bail box levers, and they in turn operate the keyrods of the auxiliary whenever a key is touched.

MAGAZINES AND ESCAPEMENTS

ESCAPEMENT MECHANISM

The escapement mechanism of models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 machines consists of two pawls, a verge, and a verge spring for each character in the magazine. The verge is hinged on a pivot rod. The lower end of the pawls are seated in the verge, and the upper end projects through the under side of the magazine and engages the lower lugs of the matrices. When the escapement is at its normal position, the lower or front pawl extends up into the magazine and holds the column of matrices in the channel. The end of the upper pawl is flush with the bottom of the channel groove. The verge and pawls are held in this position by the keyrod, which hooks onto the verge. This keyrod is held down by its own weight and a spring near its lower end. The verge spring, which sets directly back of and against the verge, has its tension upward on the verge. When the key is touched and the cam yoke raises the keyrod, it releases the verge, which is pulled upward by the verge spring. This action lowers the front pawl and raises the back pawl, releasing the front matrix. The back pawl detains the other matrices, holding them in the channel until the verge is restored to normal. The keyrod spring pulls the keyrod down. The verge, being hooked to the keyrod is pulled down also. This brings the front pawl up and the back pawl down, letting the matrix slide to position ready for the next escapement. This verge action is the same on all single magazine models.

Each magazine of a model 1, 2, or 3 machine carries the escapement assembly on the bottom, at the front, directly above the keyrod upper guide.

On a model 5 the verge escapement is fastened by means of two screws and two dowel pins to the intermediate bracket of the machine. To remove: Take off the magazine and then raise the keyrods with the hand lever at the right of the keyrods. This will leave the keyrods free to be pushed back from the verges, by withdrawing the spring pin which holds the upper keyrod guide to the verge pivot rod at the right-hand side, under the escapements, and pushing back on the guide. The escapements can then be removed by taking out the two screws, one at each end, and lift off the dowel pins.

The escapement mechanism of models 8, 14, 18, 19, 14-s-k, and K is similar to the model explained above, except that the verge spring pulls downward on the verge instead of upward, as in the other models. The escapement is operated by the escapement lever and a plunger from the front. The keyrod forces the escapement lever upward. The lever strikes the plunger and forces it against the verge.

The model 8 or 14 verge escapements can be removed by raising the magazine and pushing the escapement back from between the escapement supports.

MAGAZINES

The magazine is the receptacle in which a font of matrices is stored on the machine, ready for instant use as the matrices are desired in assembling a line. Some of the main features of the different model machines are the number of magazines carried on the machine at one time, the size or width of the magazine, and the manner of removing the magazines.

The magazine or channel plate consists of 92 channels milled in the brass plates, which guide the lugs of the matrices and keep them in line, so as to pass the escapements one at a time. Model 1 magazines have the old style channel entrances, attached to each magazine frame. The model 1 magazines are narrow, and will only carry matrices up to and including 11-point. The escapements of this model are fastened directly to the magazine.

The magazine for a model 2 or 3 machine is practically the same as a model 1 in construction, with the exception of being two inches wider at the lower end.

The verges on these models are practically the same as on the model 1, but on account of the difference in width of the magazines, are thicker. In this style the verges are locked by turning the grooved escapement verge locking bar one-fourth of a turn. This is turned by the crank at the right-hand side of the magazine. The keyboard is locked with a bar the same as the model 1.

The channel entrance is similar to the model 1.

The lower magazine of the model 2 is shorter than the upper magazine. The matrices are released by the same keyboard mechanism. The escapements, however, are on the top of the magazine instead of beneath it. Each keyrod has a lug fastened to the back end of it, which engages the escapement levers connected to the escapements. When the lower magazine is being used, the keyrod is raised and allows the verge spring to operate the escapement, releasing the matrix. The keyrod spring pulls the escapement lever down. This lever brings the escapement into position, ready to release another matrix.

The escapements on both magazines are capable of movement, as the verge springs of both tend to raise the escapements, but are prevented from doing so by the keyrod spring. The matrices are prevented from escaping from both magazines at the same time by a pair of grooved rods, which lie between the verges and the magazine. The locks on these rods are so arranged that the locking of one escapement unlocks the other, the movement of these being controlled by a hand lever at the right of the face plate, directly above the keyboard.

The model 3 magazine is the same as the model 2 (upper). The escapement action is also the same.

The upper magazine of a model 4 is a removable magazine which is independent of the escapement mechanism or the channel entrance. This magazine is as wide as the model 2 or 3, but is not interchangeable with them. This magazine is interchangeable with those of a model 5, 8, 14, 18, 19, or 14-s-k.

The lower magazine of a model 4 is the same as a model 2, but it is easily removed from the machine, as the escapement mechanism is independent of the magazine.

The escapement on the model 4 is the same as on the model 2, except that the escapement mechanism is fastened to the machine brackets instead of to the magazine.

On models 2 and 4 there are two channels of lower case “e” matrices. The mechanism for the operation of the double “e” is one keyboard cam to be connected alternately to the two short keyrods which connect with the two “e” verges. The shifting of a short keyrod from one to the other keyrods is accomplished by the raising of the assembling elevator, which operates a lever fastened to the assembling elevator link. This link comes in contact with a pawl and ratchet that operate the short keyrod by shifting alternately. This attachment can be applied to any model of machine.

The model 5 is a quick change machine. The magazine changes from the front and can be lifted off by one person. The escapement mechanism is separate from the magazine.

The model 5 magazine is the same as the model 4 and is interchangeable with any of the above mentioned models except models 1, 2, or 3.

The No. 5 (English) magazine is now known as the standard magazine. This magazine is used on all models 4, 5, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, and 19 machines.

The model 8 machine carries 3 of these No. 5 magazines. All magazines may be changed from the front of the machine. The magazines are interchangeable as to their position in the machine. They are also interchangeable with the same No. 5 magazines on other machines.

The model 14 is the same as the model 8, except that it has an auxiliary magazine.

Model 18, which carries two magazines, uses the same magazines as a model 5, 8, or 14. The escapements are hung to the magazine frame, but are like the model 5, 8, or 14 escapements, and are held in place by two spring clamps that fit over the top of the magazines at the front. By shifting a lever at the right of the magazine frame, the position of the magazines is changed.

The model 19 is the same as the model 18, except that it has an auxiliary magazine.

REMOVING A MAGAZINE

It is sometimes necessary to remove the magazines of any model of machine for the purpose of cleaning or repairing, or to change the type face.

Read carefully the instructions for the removing of the magazines until you become thoroughly familiar with the order of procedure. To forget one operation or to perform an operation at the wrong time may cause the matrices to be spilled or something more serious.

To remove a model 1 magazine: Lock the verges by placing the locking wire above the shoulder of the back pawls, lock the keyboard by inserting the locking rod in the slotted hole in the right-hand keyboard post and shove the rod through the full length of the keyboard. This rod passes under the end of the keyboard cam yokes and raises them, which raises the keyrods off the verges a trifle. Unlatch the upper keyrod guide at the right-hand side and move the keyrods off the verges. Pull the flexible front of the assembler plate forward as far as the chain permits it to come. Remove the tray under the rear channel entrance, raise the magazine to a level position and push it through toward the rear and lift out carefully. It requires two persons to remove a magazine of this model.

In returning the magazine be careful that it is moved forward the full distance before the front end is lowered; or the lift lever of the distributor box may be damaged.

To remove the upper magazine from a model 2: Unlatch the connecting links between the verge locks, throw the verge lock of the upper magazine down one-fourth of a turn, and slip the sliding block on the side of the upper magazine downward. This holds the upper verge lock. Lock the keyboard, and depress the pin beneath the verges of the upper magazine, at the right. This pin holds the keyrod guide and keyrods to the verges. Push the guide back and disconnect the keyrods. The lower end of the upper magazine can now be raised and the magazine drawn out of the machine at the back. Use care not to damage the lower magazine or back entrance.

To remove the lower magazine of a model 2: Remove the upper magazine, throw the keyrods forward with the lever, draw out the rod beneath the magazine mouth. This rod holds the matrix guides for the lower magazine in place. Lift out the magazine, using care not to damage the escapements or levers.

To remove the model 5 magazine: Insert the locking strip, pressing it firmly in place. This bar holds the matrices in the channels. The bar also releases the lock at the left-hand side of the magazine and permits the cam levers to be turned or brought forward into position for holding the magazine. Pull forward the spring lock which fits over the lower end of the magazine. With the cam levers, raise the magazine frame. Lift the front end of the magazine and it will slide forward; then by allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will hang in a vertical position on the levers. Close the cover at the top of the magazine and lift off.

The above method of locking must be followed with any No. 5 magazine on any model.

To remove any of the three magazines from a model 8 or 14 proceed in the following manner:

Any magazine should be in operating position before it is removed.

The upper magazine is removed similarly to a model 5. Place the locking rod in the magazine to lock the matrices and unlock the catch at left of the magazine. Take off the bar which extends across the top side of the magazine. Turn the cam levers forward, and lift the magazine off.

To remove the second magazine: Insert the locking bar in the top and second magazines. Raise the magazines with the elevating mechanism, as high as they will go. Place the frame supports under the upper magazine frame. Remove the bar which extends across the top side of the top magazine. Turn the elevating crank until the frame descends and the second magazine is in operating position, leaving the upper magazine elevated. Place the right- and left-hand cams on the second magazine frame. Lift out the escapements of the upper magazine. Then proceed as in removing the upper magazine.

To remove the third magazine: Remove the two upper magazines and take off the frame cams; take out the eight screws that hold the right- and left-hand gibs to the frame guides; remove the gibs, using care not to get them mixed. Remove the two frames from the guides; take out the two clamps that hold the lower magazine at the rear. Have a helper stand on the frame of the machine in the rear, and reach over the top of the distributor beam to assist in lifting the magazine, while the operator in front gradually raises the magazine clear of the escapement frame. Take out the escapements by removing the two screws in the left-hand support and pry it off dowel pin holes. Be careful to hold the escapement with one hand so it does not drop.

To remove a magazine from a model 18 or 19: Put the lower magazine in operating position. Insert the locking strips. Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go, which spreads apart the two magazines. Drop the escapements down by releasing the two spring clamps that fit over the top of the magazine. The clamp on the left is fitted with a lock so it can not be dropped unless the locking strip is all the way through. Fasten the two shoes for the magazine bar to slide on, in the holes provided for them, and lift off magazine from the front. Either magazine can be lifted off.

In making the above changes, be sure you have locked the magazine. In replacing the magazine on the escapements be sure that the magazine is seated properly before removing the locking bar.

NEW MODEL 8 AND 14 SINGLE KEYBOARD

These models change practically the same as other models, but the lower magazine can be changed as easily and quickly as the top or center magazines.

This is accomplished by changes in the locating rods, guides, and elevating screw which permit raising the magazine frames higher, clearing the assembler plate far enough to slide the lower magazine out the same as the other two.

The escapements are hung to the magazine frame in the same manner as the models 18 and 19, and are held in place by the clamps, but the latter clamps are tightened by means of screws and knurled knobs instead of springs.

To remove a magazine from a late model 8 or 14-s-k: Put the magazine in operating position next to the one to be changed; if the top one is to be changed, put the second magazine in operating position; if the second one, place the lower magazine in position. Lock the locking strip, drop the escapements down by releasing the two knurled knob screws that clamp the escapement over the top of the magazine. Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go; fasten the two shoes for the magazine bar to slide on in the lugs provided for them and lift off the magazine from the front.

SPLIT MAGAZINES

Split magazines can be used on models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, 21, and 22. These magazines are just half the length of the regular magazines and carry 12 matrices of each character. These magazines are very handy, where a large amount of changes are made, because of their lightness. On account of the short fonts carried, they are not desirable for use below 12-point, except in some job faces.

These magazines are changed the same as the full length magazines.

AUXILIARY MAGAZINES

Auxiliary magazines are narrow, having only 28 channels, and are operated by separate auxiliary escapements, keyrods, and keyboard. They are extensively used for carrying headletter and advertising fonts, and two-line figures. They can be changed the same as changing a model 5 magazine.

The newer style auxiliary, used on the model 14 single keyboard, is wider and has 34 channels; permitting the use of larger faces and carrying more of an assortment of characters than the older model. This magazine is operated by separate keyrods and escapements connecting with the regular keyboard through the medium of a series of fulcrumed levers, which can, by the operation of a small lever, be brought into instant use at will from the regular keyboard.

MODEL K

The model K is a two magazine machine with magazines the same width as the model 1. This model does not differ materially from a model 1 except that it has two interchangeable narrow magazines supported in a frame similar to the frame of a model 19. The magazines are changed by pulling a lever at the right of the magazine frame. This machine carries the short keyrods, escapement levers, and escapements similar to a model 19, except that the escapements are fastened to the magazine. These magazines are changed from the front. They are not interchangeable with a model 1 magazine. The other parts of the machine are the same as any of the other models.

MODEL L

The model L is a rebuilt machine along the same lines as a model 5. The magazine changes from the front the same as a model 5. The escapements are fastened to the intermediate brackets similar to a model 5.

To change a magazine on this model: Lock the matrices by inserting the locking strip, pressing it firmly in place. Raise the cam levers to positions, lift the front end of the magazine, and it will slide forward. By allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will hang in a vertical position ready to be lifted off.

To remove the verges from this model it is necessary to use the locking rod that comes with the machine. This rod is similar to the one used on the model 1, except it has an extra strip at the top which raises the keyrods higher. Insert this strip in the hole in the keyboard post at the right; push through as far as it will go. This will lift the keyrods free of the verges; they can now be pushed back by releasing the latch that holds the upper keyrod guides to the verge pivot rod at the right, and pushing back on the guide. The escapements can now be removed by taking out the two screws, one at each end, and lift off dowel pins.

TO REMOVE A VERGE

Remove the magazine or escapements from the machine and place bottom side up on a bench or table. On a model 1, with a pair of duck bill pliers, straighten the bent ears on the verge partition which holds the narrow brass locking strip in place. Raise the strip to a point beyond the desired verge. (On the other models there is no strip to be removed.) Push out the pivot rod with another rod of the same size, until you reach the desired verge; separate the ends of the two rods and lift out the verge and its pawls. Verges are made in various sizes and care should be taken that a verge of the same size is used in replacing. Examine the verge and pawl to see that there is nothing to retard its free action. Examine the verge spring for wear at the point of contact with the verge. If the verge does not work freely the matrices can not drop properly.

FAILURE OF MATRICES TO RESPOND

(_Due to trouble above the keyboard_)

When the matrices fail to respond to the touch and the keyboard and keyrods have been found to be working properly, the trouble may be due to: Dirty magazine, dirty matrices, bent or damaged lugs on the matrices, weak verge spring, bent verge pawl, bent verge plunger, broken verge, verge not making full stroke, magazine not aligning with the assembler front partitions, matrix laying flat in the magazine and holding others back, no matrices in the channel, battered channel, keyrod spring weak or off.

CLEANING A MAGAZINE

To clean a magazine, run out all the matrices into a galley and place the magazine in a convenient place for cleaning. Magazines which have the verges assembled on them should be placed with the bottom side up in order to prevent the dirt getting in around the pawls while cleaning. With a good magazine brush, clean all dirt and gum from the inside of the magazine. If the magazine is very dirty, first use a little good gasoline or denatured alcohol on the brush to cut all the gum loose. Brush the magazine and use the air until dry on the inside. Then polish the inside by applying a very small amount of graphite on the brush and rubbing briskly.

In cleaning a magazine, be sure that all the little dark spots, which show where the lugs of the matrices set in the magazine, are removed. These spots are gum which forms in the magazine, due to oil and dirt which are carried in on the lugs of the matrices. If these spots are not entirely removed it would be better not to clean the magazine at all. When they are merely loosened up by the cleaning, the matrices will be held back and will not drop regularly.

Frequently the bristles of the brush will get caught in the partitions of the magazine and pull out of the brush. These can usually be removed by dragging the edge of a soft pine yard-stick across them.

Keep the various parts of the machine, with which the matrices come in contact, clean and free from oil, and the magazine will not get dirty for some time.

CLEANING MATRICES

Matrices to be cleaned should be placed on a flat galley. With an ink eraser (Banner Eberhard Faber No. 1071) remove the gum or dirt from the lugs and the face. Then blow the loose dust off with the air. Place another galley bottom side up over the galley of matrices and turn both galleys and the matrices over. The back lugs and back side of the matrices may then be cleaned the same as the face.

MAGAZINE HINTS

Never oil the escapements nor put oil in the magazine. To do so will cause escapement trouble.

Do not slam the magazine entrance when closing it. There may be a matrix overhanging the edge that you have overlooked, and you will damage the matrix and the back end of the magazine.

Never pound the magazine to make matrices drop. Locate the cause of the trouble and remove it.

Don’t forget, when pulling down the magazine entrance, to do so quickly, as opening it slowly is liable to cause a matrix to fall into the magazine flatwise.

Never try to force a matrix past the escapement. If it will not come through easily, pull it out the back way.

A wooden reglet with a rubber band around the end will be found convenient for removing a flat matrix from the magazine.

Never attempt to remove a magazine without first inserting the locking bar.

Do not expect a rusty or bent locking bar to work freely. Clean it; if bent, straighten it.

Never put a No. 5 magazine on the machine until you have run your fingers along the opening at the back side of the lower end to make sure there are no matrices with the lugs in the opening. If there are, push them back in the magazine. Just one lug in this opening will prevent the magazine seating properly.

ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR

The assembling elevator is held in place on the face plate by the two gibs, one on each side, and by the assembler roll bracket on the lower right-hand side.

The assembling elevator on all the later model machines consists of two castings, held together at the bottom by a large screw and dowel pins. The two castings carry, as the main parts, the assembler gate, retaining pawls, the duplex rails, the buffer parts on which the matrices strike, the releasing pin, the latch, and the detaining plates.

The matrices, when falling from the magazines, are guided downward by a series of flexible partitions. These partitions are thin strips fastened to the assembler plate and are bent at an angle at the bottom to cause the matrix to drop flat on an endless conveyer belt which carries them to the assembler rails. These rails are so shaped that the matrices slide between them and the chute spring into the assembling elevator and are moved forward into the elevator by a star wheel.

As the matrix is caught by the star wheel, it is pushed between the two assembling elevator rail pawls and seated on the elevator buffers. The matrix is held in place at the bottom of the elevator by two detaining plates. When these parts are in perfect condition, the matrix will set straight in the elevator.

The back buffer is made of steel, and sets flush with the edge of the back rail of the elevator. The front buffer receives most of the impact of the matrices and there is not much wear to the back one, unless the front buffer is badly worn. The back buffer may be renewed if necessary.

The front buffer is a removable fiber plate set in the bottom and flush with the edge of the rail. The purpose of this buffer is to prevent wear on the bottom lug of the matrix. When the plate is worn, it can be replaced.