Chapter II: Part 2

The matrix will have a tendency to fall back on the star wheel if the buffer is worn. A good way to determine whether the front buffer is worn is to run down a few matrices in the assembler, then open the gate and observe whether the matrices near the end fall forward slightly, dropping below the level of the rest of the line. If the matrices drop very much, a new buffer should be applied.

The detaining plates, at the bottom of the assembling elevator, are for the purpose of keeping the bottom of the matrix from falling between the assembling elevator and the assembler. These plates must be kept in good condition, and the screws which hold them kept tight, or thin matrices will get in between the elevator and assembler, causing trouble in assembling the line.

Assembled at the right of the assembling elevator back rail and the gate are the two assembling elevator rail pawls. These rail pawls are operated by springs, the tension of which should be just strong enough to hold the matrix. The pawls should keep the matrices from falling back on the star wheel.

Most fonts of matrices, up to and including 14-point, have two letters or characters on the casting edge. The characters to be cast must be presented at the proper level in front of the mold cell. To enable the operator to utilize either character instantly, there are assembled in the front of the assembling elevator two thin duplex rails. These rails are operated by small levers, which permit the operator to assemble the matrices on the upper or lower rail, or mix the line, part upper and part lower. Rails are carried throughout the entire delivery mechanism to hold the matrices at the proper level until after the cast is made.

The rails are assembled on the levers and are held to position by a bar which is fastened to the elevator. A liner on each end, under the bar, gives room for the rails to move without binding. Under the rails are small spiral springs which force the rails up against the bar to keep them from moving too freely when a line is being assembled.

The long rail has a projection out from the base that holds the line of matrices as it transfers from the elevator to the delivery channel. This projection must fit into a groove in the elevator. If this point becomes bent it will not permit the rail to fit, causing bad assembling when in the regular position. There is a small operating finger screwed to the long rail that comes in contact with the aligning piece fastened to the delivery channel front rail. This is for the purpose of aligning the upper rails on the assembling elevator with the upper delivery channel rails when the line is in the auxiliary position. If the operating finger does not come in contact with the aligning piece and raise it, matrices in auxiliary, or raised position, will not pass into the delivery channel.

To operate the duplex rails, determine in which position the matrices should be assembled, and press in or pull out on the small levers, as desired. The right-hand lever controls the first half-inch of the duplex rail, throwing it in or out. If the rail is in, the matrices are all assembled on the raised or auxiliary position. If the rail is out, the matrices are all assembled on the bottom or regular position.

The left-hand or the long rail fills out the balance of space in the elevator. It is also connected with a small lever, and operates the same as the short rail. The rails can be moved in or out as needed for a line in the regular or auxiliary position, or for a line partly in the regular and partly in the auxiliary position.

On the back of the assembling elevator at the right, resting on an adjusting screw, is the line delivery slide releasing wire pin. This pin should release the line delivery slide just as the assembling latch catches when the elevator is raised.

The releasing pin raises the releasing plunger, which in turn raises the delivery pawl, releasing the slide. This carries the assembled line through the delivery channel. The pin should not release the slide until the latch, which is found on the back of the assembling elevator, catches on the stop bar. The latch, which is held in place by a shoulder screw and operated by a spring, holds the elevator in raised position until the slide has carried the assembled line into the delivery channel. The latch is then released by the slide as it passes to the left, allowing the elevator to drop of its own weight to the position to receive another line.

If the pin is adjusted so that it will release the pawl before the latch catches, the delivery slide will start to carry the line towards the delivery channel before the latch can hold and part of the line will fall out, because the elevator drops as soon as released. If the pin is adjusted so it will not release the pawl, the delivery slide will not start.

The pin should be adjusted so it will release the delivery pawl at the same time the latch catches on the stop bar. This adjustment is made by raising the elevator to its highest position and with a narrow screw-driver, adjust to the proper height by turning the adjusting screw on which the pins rest.

There is a counterbalance spring attached to the assembling elevator, underneath the keyboard frame.

TO TAKE OFF ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR

Remove the two screws which hold the delivery channel; pull it off the dowel pins. Release the assembling elevator lever, take out the four screws which hold the left-hand gib, pull the gib off the dowel pins, and remove the elevator. On the machine that has the universal ejector, care must be used not to bend the indicator rod when removing the delivery channel.

ASSEMBLER

As the matrices descend into the assembling elevator they pass between the chute spring and the assembler chute rails. The chute spring is bent and adjusted to break the fall of the matrix and tend to throw the bottom of the matrix towards the star wheel. The points of the chute spring should be slightly inclined so they will not interfere with the top of the matrix striking beneath the points of the spring, retarding the matrix long enough for the spaceband to transpose. There must be room enough between these points for the spaceband to pass through without binding as it drops from the spaceband chute into the assembling elevator.

The chute spring must be adjusted so it will allow the heaviest matrix in the font, such as the cap “W,” to slip through between it and the rails of the assembler without hesitating. This adjustment is approximate; it is sometimes necessary to change it. Adjust by bending above the banking piece with duck bill pliers. The spring should also be flexible and as low as permitted by the banking piece which is riveted on the side, and resting on the assembler plate. Be careful not to change the shape of the lower part of the spring.

The later style chute spring is a great improvement over the old style. The length of the spring from the pivoting point to the toe assures smoothness in assembling, and can be instantly adjusted for thin or thick matrices.

On this style chute spring the adjustment is made by turning a conical thumbscrew which raises or lowers the spring.

The matrix catch spring is fastened to the rear of the assembler plate and projects through a slot in the plate 1/32 of an inch. The purpose of this spring is to retard the matrix a trifle before it passes onto the star wheel. The catch spring should be adjusted so it does not project more than 1/32 of an inch from the plate. It must also be in the center of the slot. If it projects more than the distance mentioned it may cause transpositions.

The star wheel is driven by a friction disk and pinion. The pinion slips over a small circular brass disk that is screwed onto the star wheel shaft. To hold the pinion on and to cause the friction to drive the disk, there is a spring which is held against the pinion by a nut that screws on the shaft. The spring must be just strong enough to force the assembler slide over when assembling a line, but to allow the star wheel to stop if anything binds it.

If the brass disk wears or becomes oily, or the friction spring becomes weak, a slight resistance to the star wheel will stop it and the matrices will clog in the assembler. If the friction is too strong, the star wheel will not stop when too many matrices are dropped into the assembler. This will cause damage to the matrices or the machine.

If these parts need renewing or cleaning, it will be necessary to remove the assembler plate from the machine. This can be accomplished by removing the two screws in the assembler plate, removing the chute spring, if the new style, releasing the matrix delivery belt from the pulley at the top, slipping the assembler driving belt off the pulley, and lifting the plate off the dowel pins.

By unscrewing the stud nut, the spring and the pinion can be lifted off and the disk unscrewed and cleaned or renewed.

The star wheel should force the matrices inside the retaining pawls in the assembling elevator. When it becomes worn to the extent that it will not force the matrices inside the retaining pawls, it should be replaced with a new one.

When renewing a star wheel it is only necessary to remove the small assembler cover, raise the assembling elevator, remove the screw which holds the two chute plates and rails on the dowel pins, and remove the chute plates. The old star can be withdrawn and a new one fitted.

Use a square file to dress out the hole on the new star, but do not have it fitted too loosely. Use care that the star does not bind anywhere.

The assembler chute rails, front and back, are soldered to the plates, and should be kept tightly fastened at all times. They should be close to, but not dig into, the delivery belt.

The small assembler cover must be adjusted so the matrices do not strike the upper edge while passing to the assembler, as this batters the lugs and will cause them to stick in the channels. It should also be adjusted so the lower left-hand side sets close to the assembling elevator, to prevent matrices or spacebands from getting between the cover and the assembling elevator.

ASSEMBLER SLIDE

The assembler slide guides the matrices as they are forced into the assembling elevator by the star wheel. This slide is prevented from vibrating by the assembler slide brake.

On the right end of the slide is the gauge and clamp for setting it to the required measure. The gauge is marked in ems and half-ems. By merely changing the clamp the slide can be adjusted to any measure desired.

On top of the clamp is an adjusting screw for the purpose of keeping the slide properly adjusted. The proper measurement of the slide is determined by inserting a gauge or slug of any known length between the assembler slide finger and the star wheel. The star wheel, being of fiber composition, wears down, which in time will allow enough matrices to be assembled in the assembler to cause a tight line in the vise jaws. By using the adjusting screw the slide can be kept at proper adjustment. The screw should be turned towards the assembler slide bracket pawl until the gauge stops the star wheel. This is a very important adjustment, as tight lines should not be tolerated on any machine. Tight lines not only ruin the matrices, but they often cause much damage to the machine. They also cause much distributor and escapement trouble on account of the damage done to the matrices.

ASSEMBLER SLIDE BRAKE

The assembler slide brake is at the right of the assembler, held to the face plate by a screw, and operated by the assembler slide brake operating lever, spring, and a trip. The purpose of the brake is to prevent the slide from having an unsteady movement when the line is being assembled, so that the last matrix in the elevator will be upright against the star wheel. The brake should hold the assembler slide from returning to normal until released by the operating lever. When the assembling elevator is in normal position it is resting on the top of the assembler slide brake operating lever near the left end, which raises the right, putting the brake in action.

When the assembling elevator is being raised, the lug on the lower right side raises the left end of the operating lever, lowering the right against the adjusting screw in the brake trip which releases the brake, and allows the slide to return to its normal position.

When it is necessary to adjust the brake it can be adjusted with the screw in the inner end of the operating lever on the older models, and with the screw in the brake trip on the newer, by raising the assembling elevator slowly with the left hand and adjusting with the right so the slide will return just before the line delivery slide is released. There should be about 1/64 of an inch between the end of the screw on the operating lever, or the trip, and the brake lever when this adjustment is properly made.

There are facing blocks at the point of friction on the assembler slide brake. When these blocks become worn, they may be reversed, bringing another corner to the point of friction.

The left end of the operating lever, when raised, should remain so until the assembling elevator has returned to its proper position. If it does not, when using a long line the instant the elevator starts to descend, the right end of the operating lever raising would allow the brake to go into action, and cause the assembler slide to stop before it has returned to its proper position.

On the back of the operating lever is a friction spring which should overcome the tension of the brake spring, so as to have the left end of the operating lever remain in raised position until returned by the assembling elevator as it returns to normal.

The assembler slide is returned to normal by a long coil spring, as soon as the brake is released. Do not change the tension of this spring if the slide fails to return. The cause of the trouble usually will be found elsewhere.

MATRIX CARRIER BELT

This belt moves the matrices to the assembling elevator and must be kept fairly tight. It is adjusted by loosening the nut and stud which hold the upper pulley and which fit into a slotted hole; then move the pulley to the desired position and tighten the nut. If the belt is still loose when the stud is against the outer end of the slot a new belt should be applied. Procure a new belt from the machine manufacturer and be sure to specify the model and the number of the machine, because the belts are of different lengths for the various models.

There are always particles of dirt and grease that form a gum which adheres to the pulleys and slideways along which the belt moves. These parts should be kept clean and free of this gum.

CAUSES OF BAD ASSEMBLING

The main sources of trouble of the assembling are transpositions and matrices jumping out of the assembler. The causes of these troubles are numerous. In the assembling elevator it may be caused by worn buffer strips, detaining pawls not working properly, or worn detaining plates. On the assembler plate trouble may be caused by a worn star wheel, dirty star wheel friction, chute spring out of adjustment, matrix catch spring out of adjustment, chute rails loose from the plates; assembler slide brake out of adjustment, permitting the slide to vibrate; brake catching too soon, not allowing the slide to return all the way back; loose screw in assembler slide operating brake, causing the slide to bind; or assembler slide worn or dirty, which will not allow the brake to operate properly.

These are some of the principal causes of trouble, but due to wear or the care the machine has had, there may be numerous other causes.

THE SPACEBANDS

Spacing and justification are accomplished on the linotype by means of the spacebands, which are held in the spaceband box above the assembling elevator, into which they drop when the spacebar is touched.

Spacebands are made in two pieces, a long wedge and a sleeve, put together in such a manner that they slide freely the one upon the other, but with the outer surfaces always remaining parallel. The spaceband is thicker at the bottom than at the top, forming a wedge which is automatically driven upward between the matrices, thus increasing the space between the words, spreading the line to fill the measure, and holding it air-tight during the cast.

The sleeve of the spaceband should be turned to the right. Because the casting edge of the spacebands is made thicker than the opposite edge, spacebands must not be reversed in a line, nor two put together; neither should a spaceband be put on the end of a line.

After the cast the matrices and spacebands are carried to the transfer point where the matrices are transferred from the first elevator to the bar of the second elevator, while the spacebands, not having combination teeth like the matrices, are left in the channel and are returned to the spaceband box by the spaceband pawl.

The deep cut in the bottom of the spaceband straddles the spaceband buffer finger which guides it in its travel through the assembling elevator and lessens the possibility of turning or twisting. The small pin at the bottom of the spaceband prevents it from falling apart.

The bottom of the spaceband is beveled so that it will strike the matrix a glancing, but harmless, blow as it enters the line.

Spacebands which are generally accepted as regular are termed “thick” by the factory. They are also made in other sizes known as “thin,” used with very small faces of type; and “extra thick,” for the larger faces or where very wide spacing is desired.

Watch matrices and spacebands carefully, and immediately remove any damaged, bent, or imperfect ones. A damaged matrix or spaceband will damage others, and the whole font may go to ruin within a short time unless the proper attention is given.

Once in each eight hours of operation, the spacebands must be taken from the machine and polished with graphite on a soft pine board. Lay the spaceband flat on its face and rub it briskly backward and forward the long way of the band. Do not rub in a circling movement, as it tends to round the edges. Metal will then cast between the spaceband and the matrix and show in print. The purpose of cleaning is to remove the discoloration or metal adhering at the casting point, and to lubricate the sliding parts. If metal is allowed to accumulate on the spacebands, it will crush the side walls of the matrices when locked up. Use dry graphite in polishing the spacebands. Never handle them with dirty or greasy hands, as the dirt and grease will be transferred to the matrices. If the metal does not rub off, scrape it with a piece of brass rule.

SPACEBAND BOX

The spaceband box is fastened to the face plate by means of a screw and dowel pins.

The spacebands slide down through the box, suspended by their lugs, on two inclined rails. The lower spaceband rests against a raised projection or hook on the inclined rail. The bottom end of the spaceband rests against the chute plate. Escapement of the spaceband is effected by two pawls which lift the spacebands over the rails, allowing them to drop into the assembling elevator.

The pawls are located in the right-hand side of the spaceband box, front and back. These pawls are connected to the pawl levers by the spaceband pawl lifting screws, and held in place by the rails and pawl springs. When the pawls are at their lowest position, they are forced under the ears of the spaceband by the pawl springs.

The pawls get their motion in the following manner: When the spaceband key is touched the cam is released and turns the same as the regular keyboard cams. This raises the spaceband keyrod against the tension of the spring at the bottom of the keyrod. The keyrod raises the right-hand end of the spaceband keylever. This lowers the left-hand end of the keylever, on which the box lever rests. This permits the pawls and levers to drop of their own weight. When the keyrod cam returns to normal, the spring on the keyrod pulls the keyrod and the keylever to normal, thus raising the pawls and levers by spring action.

The movement of the pawls is controlled by the screw in the back pawl lever which rests on the spaceband keylever. When the pawls are at their lowest position, the bottom of the slot in the adjusting screw is resting on the keylever. They must go 1/32 an inch below the inclined rails on their full down stroke. To make this adjustment, disconnect the keyboard belt from the pulley, touch the spaceband key, turn the rollers by hand until the pawl levers are in their lowest position, disconnect the keylever from the adjusting screw and turn the screw.

The chute plate, against which the lower right side of the spaceband rests while suspended in the spaceband box, must be low enough so that when raised by the pawls, the bottom of the spaceband will be released before the top; if not, they will catch and hang in the box. Whenever it is necessary to make this adjustment it can be accomplished by bending the chute plate a trifle.

When the first spaceband is being raised by the pawls, the weight of the other being against it would cause the next one to raise by friction unless it were prevented. This is prevented by the center bar which is fastened to a bracket at the top of the box. The distance from the vertical stop on the box rails to the pins on the center bar should be just enough for one spaceband to raise, the pins holding the second band from raising. By loosening the screw in the bracket and moving the bar, adjust so that the distance from the vertical stop on the rails to the pins is just enough to permit one spaceband to raise, the pins holding the second one. As there are three kinds of spacebands in use—thin, thick, and extra thick—the above adjustment can only be made so as to use one thickness at a time.

The two chute rails at the bottom of the chute guide the spacebands into the assembling elevator. The spacebands will have a tendency to catch on the assembling elevator rails, and not settle down in the assembler, if the rails are worn. There should be just room enough between the rails for a spaceband to slide without binding.

TO REMOVE SPACEBAND BOX

Push in controlling lever. Take hold of cam No. 1 and back the cams until the second elevator descends to its safety latch. Hold the spaceband transfer lever with the right hand and press downward with left hand on the releasing lever in the first elevator top guide. Allow the spaceband transfer lever to move over into the intermediate channel. Push the spacebands back into the channel. Remove the screw on the right-hand side of the electric light bracket and move the bracket to clear the box. Remove the large screw in the center of the box and lift the box off the dowel pins.

In replacing the spaceband box, be careful not to spring the lower end of the spaceband chute. Also be careful not to bend the ends of the inclined rails.

SPACEBAND TROUBLES

Transposition troubles of the spacebands may be caused by any of the following: Worn keyboard cam roll, keyboard cam sluggish, loose keyboard driving belt, keyrod spring weak, tongue at the bottom of spaceband chute bent too far, worn star wheel, pawl levers loose on the shaft, caused by taper pins not being tight; dirty spaceband box pawls, pawl levers not adjusted properly, worn pawls and rails, chute spring out of adjustment, chute rails worn; also on the cam frames with the spring bar, a weak keyboard cam yoke spring.

Some of the causes for the spacebands not dropping are: Worn rails or pawls, lifting screw holes in pawls worn, bent spacebands, bent ears on spacebands, center bar out of adjustment, keyrod spring weak or off, dirty spaceband box pawls, weak pawl springs, worn rubber roll, free end of keyboard cam yoke gummy, pawl lever loose. On the cam frames with the spring bar, the cam yoke spring too tight; bent hinge rod on cam yoke or trigger dirty, or anything else that would prevent the free movement of the pawls.

Spacebands travel through the machine suspended by their lugs. Constant use causes the under side of the lug to wear, and when spacebands with badly worn lugs are mixed together with new spacebands, difficulty frequently arises and they occasionally clog in the chute when released by touching the spacebar. The only remedy is to send the offending spaceband to the factory to be repaired.

SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS AND RAILS

If the trouble is due to worn or dirty pawls, they can be taken out in the following manner: Remove the spaceband box from the machine, release the tension of the pawl springs by unscrewing the small screw that holds the spring, then take out the pawl screw and lift the pawl out of the box. If the pawls are to be replaced by new ones, select two that are the same height. Test the pawls for height by placing a small wooden plug in the pivot hole of the two pawls. The points should be the same distance from the pivot holes. If the old pawls are to be used, mark one pawl, so that they will not get mixed; for after they have been used, they should be kept in their regular place. Measure the pawls for height and also examine them to see if the points are worn. If uneven and the points dull, they can be rubbed down on an oil stone to get them even. After they are the same height, sharpen them on an oil stone, being careful to maintain the same bevel.

To work well, the pawls must be even as to height and at the points. If the pawls are rusty or gummy they can be cleaned by rubbing them on crocus cloth and polishing with graphite.

If the spaceband box rails are to be replaced with new ones, the box must be taken apart. Remove the box from the machine. Remove the chute plate. Drive out the taper pin which holds the pawl levers to the lever shaft, and take off the levers. Take out the pawls, unscrew the two large screws, and pry the two castings apart. Take off the center bar plate by removing the two round head screws. Remove the old rails. Put on the new ones by fitting them on the dowel pins, using care to have the vertical face of the rails even. It is always best to renew the pawls at the same time new rails are put on.

TO REPLACE SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS

To replace the spaceband box pawls, loosen the screw which holds the pawl spring to the pawl lever, unscrew the lifting pawl screw, place pawl in the box, screw up on the lifting screw, being careful to guide the screw into the hole on the pawl. Place the spring in the pawl slot before the pawl lift screw is drawn tight. Tighten the spring screw, which holds the spring against the pawl, until the screw is tight.

The pawl should rest against the back of the pawl guide firmly. Try the pawl to see if the spring has the proper tension and that the pawl is not bent so it does not work freely.

LINE DELIVERY SLIDE

The delivery slide consists of two slides which move in a slideway, a long finger, short finger, delivery slide rod, and adjusting clamp. The slide is connected by a lever link, lever, shaft, and split cam lever, to a roller which operates against the surface of cam No. 10.

The slide gets its action, when delivering a line, from a strong coil spring in the column of the machine which is connected to a lug on the shaft. The slide is returned to normal by cam action, the roller being held against and following the surface of cam No. 10.

When the line delivery slide is in normal position, it is prevented from sliding into the first elevator jaws by the delivery pawl, which is under the spaceband box, held to the face by a screw, and operated by a spring.

This pawl has a notch on the lower side, which acts as a safety to prevent the slide being pulled to the left, in case it is not returned quite far enough for the end of the pawl to pass the catch.

When the slide has returned to normal position, the short finger should go not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the end of the pawl. If the finger returns more than this distance, the short finger will be forced against the spaceband box chute and cause it to spring, and very likely cause delay in dropping of the spacebands.

The return adjustment is made by moving the split cam lever in or out. First remove the spaceband box so as to have a clear view of the pawl and finger. Then turn the main cams by hand until just before the high part of cam No. 10 is opposite the split cam lever roller. Place the short finger back of the delivery pawl, in normal position. Hold the lever and roller against the cam and tighten the screws in the split cam lever. This should cause the short finger on the slide to be returned not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the pawl.

This adjustment is approximate, however, due to wear on the connecting parts of the slide on machines which have been in use for some time. The adjustment is made on the older model machines, which do not have the split cam lever, by the eccentric pin on the slide lever.

Near the right end of the first elevator jaws are two spring pawls which prevent the matrices from falling out while the line is going to casting position. The short finger should stop 13/32 of an inch inside of the first elevator. The last matrix on the right-hand end of the line will then be inside the two pawls. This adjustment is made by the screw in the slideway on the left end of the face plate, against which the slide comes to a stop.

When the slide stops against the adjusting screw in the slideway, the casting mechanism will be set in action. It is started by the roller on the split cam lever, which comes in contact with the automatic stopping pawl on cam No. 10, forcing it from the upper stopping lever, and the machine goes into action. It should not start before the line delivery slide has come to a stop against the adjusting screw on the face plate. If it did, the last matrix in the line would not be inside the spring pawls in the first elevator. The plate, which is held to the automatic stopping pawl by a screw on the lower end, is adjustable. Loosening the lower and turning the upper screw to the left will move the plate closer to the split lever or roller and the machine will be set in action sooner; moving the screw to the right, the reverse. This plate should be adjusted so as to knock the automatic stop pawl off upper stopping lever not less than 1/64 of an inch.

The short finger is at the right of the slide and acts as a support for the right end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to the first elevator jaws. There is a small extension at the top of the short finger which engages the delivery pawl and holds the slide in normal position until the assembling elevator is raised to send in a line. The short finger is not adjustable.

The long finger is fastened to the left of the slide. It is the support for the left end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to the vise jaws. The long finger is adjusted by means of the clamp. It is necessary to readjust this finger when the measure is changed. The long finger must be kept straight so it hangs vertically on the machine. If bent either forward or backward it will wear the assembling elevator. If the bottom is bent to the right, it may interfere with the assembler slide, or the last matrix in the line may not get inside the first elevator jaw pawls, thereby binding the matrix. If bent to the left it will bind full lines of matrices as they are being raised by the assembling elevator and cause the slide to travel slowly.

The air chamber, which regulates the speed at which the slide travels, is fastened to the rear of the column and is connected to the split cam lever by means of a link. This link is also connected to the delivery air cushion piston, which operates in the air cylinder. As the slide moves over to the left this piston is forced upward into the cylinder. The speed is regulated by an air vent and cover at the top of the cylinder. Opening up the vent allows the air to escape quicker which in turn allows the slide to move to the left faster. The slide should not go over with too much force or it will have a tendency to loosen the screws in the delivery slide.

The lever link, which is the connection between the delivery slide and delivery lever, has a stud which fastens in a depression in the delivery lever and is held by a small plate and two screws. The other end of the lever has a notch that fits over a shoulder screw at the left of the rear side of the delivery slide. The link is held on this screw by means of a long, flat spring. The spring holds the link on the screw except when there is an undue strain on the delivery slide caused by something interfering with the free return of the slide. When the strain becomes too great, the spring permits the link to slip off the shoulder screw, disconnecting the slide from the lever to prevent breakage. To connect the link it is only necessary to relieve the strain on the delivery slide and push the link and the shoulder screw together.

The slideway should be well lubricated at all times to prevent undue wear on the sliding parts. Dry graphite will give more uniform action than oil on the slideway. If oil has been used on the slideway, it should be thoroughly cleaned before using graphite.

METAL POT

The metal pot consists of the pot jacket and pot crucible. The jacket is the outside casting. The crucible fits into the jacket, allowing space between the crucible and jacket for asbestos packing. The crucible is held in place in the jacket by three lugs, which keep it stationary in the jacket. All the space between the crucible and jacket is packed tightly with powdered asbestos which has been mixed with a little water until a paste is formed. This insulation is for the purpose of holding the heat in the crucible.

It is very important that every pot should be well insulated or packed. If there is poor packing the crucible can not hold the heat. The result being poor slugs, and the consequent use of more gas than is necessary. If the machine takes an excessive gas flame to keep the metal in working condition, look for poor insulation.

The well of the pot, which contains the metal before it is forced through the mouthpiece by the plunger, must have sufficient metal under the plunger to form a perfect slug when a cast is made. For that reason two holes are drilled in the well, one on each side, which allows the metal to enter the well. If the holes become closed, which they sometimes do if the well is not cleaned regularly, the slug will be hollow. They should be kept open, using the end of the mouthpiece wiper, which is bent at a right angle and pointed. The metal pot has a capacity of 38 pounds of metal.

METAL POT PLUNGER

The metal is forced by the plunger from the well, through the throat of the crucible, into the mold cell, and up against the line of matrices aligned in front of the mold.

When the machine is in normal position, the plunger should be high enough in the well to permit the metal to run into the well through the holes in the sides. If the plunger does not set above the holes, the metal can not flow into the well and throat, so when the line is cast the slug will appear porous or spongy and of light weight.

If a plunger is worn, it will permit the metal to escape around the sides of the plunger when the cast is made, giving a poor slug. To remedy this trouble it is sometimes necessary to put in a new plunger a trifle oversize (.005), and fit it to the well.

A dirty plunger may bind and cause a splash of metal to be ejected before the pot locks up tight and, chilling on the back of the mold, prevent a lockup, so the metal will flow out over the back of the disk when the plunger acts. A dirty plunger will often cause a slug to have the appearance of cold metal. Keep the plunger and the well of the pot clean.

Any kind of a wire brush may be used to clean a plunger, but the Ewald cleaning box is recommended, because it keeps all the dust confined in the box. There are several kinds of brushes and scrapers manufactured for use in cleaning the well. Use whatever method desired, but be sure it keeps the well clean.

If using a rotary well brush to clean the walls of the well, be sure to turn it always to the right, otherwise the bristles may break off and stay in the well.

If a plunger should stick in the well very tightly, raise the temperature a little, apply a wrench to the plunger rod and twist it carefully. Do not use too much force or the rod may be broken. If a plunger sticks so that it can not be removed by the above method, dip enough metal out of the crucible to expose the well; squirt some oil between the plunger and the inside wall of the well, or drop a piece of tallow in the well; let it stand for a few minutes, after which the plunger can usually be loosened with the wrench as described. Do not pry up on the plunger for there is danger of breaking the rod.

When the plunger forces the metal through the throat of the crucible, there will be nothing to retard the flow of metal against the face of the matrices if the throat of the crucible is clean. However, if the throat should be stopped up with dross or dirt, retarding the flow of metal, the face of the slug would be glassy, and have the appearance of cold metal.

CLEANING THE THROAT OF CRUCIBLE

To eliminate a stoppage in the throat it is sometimes necessary to remove the mouthpiece and scrape out the throat, using a throat scraper to cut away the accumulation of dirt and dross.

The scraper sold by the Linotype Company is recommended for the purpose. Care must be used to get the throat clean. Hold a receptacle that does not leak up in front of the crucible mouth and force the plunger down by hand. This will flush the throat of any floating particles of dross.

Sometimes melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil will open up the throat, by being used in the following manner: Dip the metal out of the pot to about an inch below the top of the well, remove the plunger, pour the melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil into the well and replace the plunger. Cast a few blank slugs. After casting about six or seven slugs, fill the metal pot full of metal, recast blank slugs until you have filled the stick. The effect of the tallow or oil is to break up the dross and dirt into such fine particles, that whatever has accumulated in the throat will be forced out through the holes in the mouthpiece. This will cause considerable smoke in the room unless you have a ventilating system. Be sure to clean your vise jaws and mold after you have finished, for they will be covered with oil. It is not necessary to remove the mouthpiece for this operation so consequently considerable time can be saved. But if the throat is very dirty, this method will not work satisfactorily.

CRACKED CRUCIBLE

Crucibles are sometimes cracked from too much heat when the gas is first lighted. When the gas is turned on full at first, the metal in the bottom of the pot is melted before the metal in the upper part gets very hot. This metal in the bottom expands and powerful pressure is exerted on the walls of the well and lower part of the crucible. To eliminate this danger the gas should be turned on about half force for about twenty minutes, or until the metal becomes warm and expanded, after which the gas may be turned on full force.

Ordinarily it takes about one hour and a half to melt the metal and have it ready for use. The small cracks which are made in the bottom of the crucible when first heating the pot will usually be closed by the heat of the burner after the pressure is released.

To remove an old crucible: Dip out as much metal as possible, turn out the fire, remove the four pot jacket cover screws, take off the cover, dig out part of the old asbestos, release the screw that clamps the left-hand crucible lug to the jacket, lift out the crucible, clean all of the old asbestos out of the inside of the jacket.

To put in a new crucible: The pot jacket should be lined with the asbestos about an inch thick on the inside, except in the front part where the burners are located. Place the crucible in position. Care should be taken to see that it fits firmly in its proper position. Pack the asbestos around the crucible, tamping it down with a stick, and filling in all the spaces. Cover the well of the crucible with a rag while packing, so that none of the asbestos will get into the well. On completion of the packing, place the pot jacket cover in position, and fasten it down firmly with the four pot jacket screws, which extend down through the cover, into the pot jacket.

MOUTHPIECES

One of the most important parts of the pot crucible, is the mouthpiece. The mouthpiece on all standard machines contains thirty holes (size 51), one hole for each pica of the slug, through which the metal flows into the mold cell to form a slug.

At the present time there are two styles of mouthpieces in general use: The wedge mouthpiece which has a gib or wedge to fasten it in the slot of the crucible to make a tight fit; and the screw mouthpiece which fastens on to the crucible by means of screws.

On all mouthpieces small cross vents are cut downward between each of the holes. There is also a vent which is cut from the first hole on the right-hand end of the mouthpiece. The cross vents allow the air to escape from the mold cell as the metal is forced in. These vents play a very important part in the casting of good slugs. If the vents are stopped up with dross or cold metal, the air can not escape from the mold cell. This causes a slug with air bubbles, making a light-weight slug. These air bubbles, when near the face of the type, allow the letters to be crushed in when put under pressure on the press. Also, the entire slug may be forced down, causing much delay in printing.

Care must be taken in cutting the vents in a mouthpiece so they do not extend very far above the top of the holes in the mouthpiece and that they are not too deep. They should be deep in the center and come to a very fine edge at the ends. All that is needed is to get the air out of the mold quickly. Ordinarily this can be accomplished by cleaning the vents with a sharp pointed scraper but be careful not to mar the mouthpiece. When the vents are opened properly there should be a sprue of metal below the vents on the back of the mold about ½ to ¾ of an inch long after the slug is cast.

A vent that is cut too deep will have too much sprue, causing an unnecessary amount of shavings on the floor and about the machine, and sometimes causing machine troubles.

It should seldom be necessary to drill out the holes in a mouthpiece. If the metal is properly cared for in remelting, and the mouthpiece is kept at the proper temperature, the metal will usually flow freely through the holes. However, if it is found necessary to drill out the holes, never use larger than a 1/16 inch or No. 51 drill, which will not make the holes larger than their original size. When using the drill, it should be immersed in oil after each hole is drilled, to prevent the drill from becoming too hot and breaking off in the hole. Enlarging the mouthpiece holes will work satisfactorily on large faces 8-point or above; but when the smaller faces are used the product will not have a clear-cut face.

TO REMOVE A MOUTHPIECE

When it is necessary to remove a mouthpiece for cleaning out the throat of the crucible, mark a line on the face of the crucible to align with the first hole on the right end of the mouthpiece. When replacing the mouthpiece the line will be your guide. By so adjusting there will be a full hole on each end of the slug when casting the different lengths, with the exception of half-pica measures. A hole on the adjustable or left end being partly covered by the liner in the mold would cause no trouble. If part of the first hole should be covered by the constant liner, the first letter on the right end of the slug would be blurred, or would not cast sharply, because the metal cools quickly on the ends of the mold, and a full, free flow is necessary.

The mouthpiece should always be removed when the metal is hot. If removed when cold there would be danger of breaking the pot crucible.

When removing the wedge style mouthpiece, place the vise in second position, lift out the mold slide, place a block of wood between the right side of the pot jacket and the slideway, drive the mouthpiece toward the keyboard, using a piece of brass as a drift. The above operation is necessary to loosen the wedge. The instant the mouthpiece moves, the wedge will become loose and can be lifted out.

Another method of removal is to grip the left-hand end of the gib with a pair of pliers, pulling the end of the gib forward and wrapping it around the pliers, prying against a piece of brass rule placed along the face of the mouthpiece. Care must be used in this method to hold the pliers at such an angle that the lip of the crucible will not be damaged while removing the gib.

Always have a new gib on hand before removing a mouthpiece, for it is difficult to use an old one in replacing a mouthpiece.

In replacing an old mouthpiece, extreme care must be taken to see that it is perfectly clean and straight. Clean the mouthpiece thoroughly and with a straight-edge test the mouthpiece to see that it is straight. If not, straighten it, being careful not to damage. This need not be done with a new mouthpiece.

Before placing the mouthpiece in the crucible, remove the left-hand vise locking stud nut and pull out the stud. Be careful not to lose the small brass washer which is on the stud. The removal of the stud permits the sliding in of the mouthpiece easily. The lips and the slot of the crucible, which are the seat for the mouthpiece, must be entirely free from all dirt and dross or the mouthpiece can not seat properly.

It is best to fit a mouthpiece to its seat by placing a very thin coating of fine emery and oil (fine valve grinding compound is good) on the back and top part of the mouthpiece. This method cleans the seat of all the accumulated dross and dirt. Place the mouthpiece in position in the pot so the top of mouthpiece is against the top seat and move back and forth, bearing lightly against the mouthpiece, until the high spots are ground down, so as to have the seat straight. When doing this, care must be taken not to get the paste on any other part of the machine, as it might cause trouble. The metal should be at casting temperature while fitting a mouthpiece. To hold the mouthpiece for this operation, procure a piece of wood furniture the same width and length of the mouthpiece, fasten this to the mouthpiece by driving a headless brad in each end of the wood directly in line with the last hole on each end of the mouthpiece. By placing the wood on the mouthpiece the brads pass through the two holes and make a very serviceable holder.

After fitting the mouthpiece, thoroughly clean all parts of the crucible lip, slot, and mouthpiece. The least particle of grit may cause trouble.

Fit the gib by dressing it, so that it will drive far enough to the right to make a tight fit. Cover the top and bottom with a thin coating of red lead and oil. Place the mouthpiece in position, the first hole in line with the mark on the crucible. Insert the wedge in the lower side and push it in as far as possible with a pair of pliers. Then drive in the gib so as to secure the mouthpiece firmly. Be careful that the mouthpiece does not move as the gib is being driven in. Lay a brass rule against the whole length of the gib and tap lightly with a hammer to firmly locate the gib on the seat, and at the same time, bring the outer edge of the gib slightly below the face of the mouthpiece.

After driving the mouthpiece to its proper position see that the ends are not burred; if so, file them off, as they might prevent the mouthpiece from locking up properly against the mold, and cause a back squirt.

The screw mouthpiece is held to the crucible by 13 screws. The screw holes in the mouthpiece are counter-sunk so the heads of these screws will not extend beyond the face of the mouthpiece.

To remove the screw style mouthpiece from the crucible, use the pot mouth screw loosener obtainable from the Linotype Company. Fit the loosener in the groove of the screw and tap the head with a hammer. As the screws will be tight, due to the heat and dross, this tapping will loosen them without damaging the screw heads. The screws can then be removed with a screw-driver.

Some features of the new mouthpiece are: There is no danger of breaking the lips of the crucible by driving the wedge in too far; it also eliminates the possibilities of battering the ends of the mouthpiece, as with the wedge style; leaking around the mouthpiece and improper setting when taken off and replaced is less likely to occur.

Due to the width of the face, one mouthpiece is sufficient for a slug of any size. This eliminates the necessity for a special mouthpiece for display, which was necessary with the older models.