Chapter V: Part 5

The eighth is the pot cam, which acts on the pot lever, forcing the mouth of the pot forward against the mold. There are two shoes on this cam. The first or short shoe is to cause the face alignment; the second or long shoe is to lock the pot firmly against the mold before the slug is cast. A roller is carried in the pot lever and follows the contour of this cam and is the medium through which the above lockup is accomplished.

The ninth is the mold slide cam and driving gear. The right side of this gear is channeled out, and carries the mold slide lever roller which operates the mold slide to advance the mold disk to a position in which the lugs of the matrices are held in the groove of the mold for alignment. It also returns the mold disk after the line has been cast, advances it again to ejecting position, and returns it after the slug is ejected. This gear also carries the pot return cam, which withdraws the pot from the mold after the cast. It also carries the ejector cam which engages the pawl on the ejector lever and moves it forward, ejecting the slug from the mold.

The tenth cam operates the delivery slide and transfer cam roller arms and causes these two parts to return to normal position after their respective movements. The delivery slide cam roller rotates on the outer surface, while the transfer slide cam roller acts on the inner surface. This cam also retracts the ejector lever after the slug has been ejected. The automatic safety and stopping pawls are attached to this cam. They are operated by the transfer slide and the delivery slide rollers. This cam really consists of two parts in one, the outer cam controlling the return of the delivery slide and the inner one controlling the return of the transfer slide lever.

The cams are all fastened together by four long bolts extending from cam No. 2 and ending at cam No. 9. They are all keyed to the main shaft and held in place by a set screw under cam No. 7. The cams can be shifted a little sidewise but should set against a collar on the left side of the main shaft under cam No. 2. Cam No. 10 is held in place by a key on the shaft and a set nut and is kept from working toward the left by a locating piece fastened to the main shaft.

The cams should be kept clean to prevent undue wear. Under ordinary conditions, the cams should be cleaned once each week. This may be accomplished by locking the controlling lever out so the cams will continue to rotate. Then hold a rag against the surface of the cam. A small amount of a mixture of gasoline and kerosene on the rag will help to cut all dirt and grit loose from the cams, and leave the surface in good condition and reduce the wear. Cams allowed to run without being cleaned will wear very rapidly and soon cause much trouble and expense.

FIRST ELEVATOR SLIDE GUIDE

The first elevator slide guide contains the intermediate bar and pawl (assembled), adjusting screws for the same, first elevator jaw duplex rail operating blocks, and the elevator transfer slide releasing lever.

The height of the intermediate bar and pawl is adjusted by the two small screws that pass through the top and touch the bar. The purpose of the bar and pawl is to push down any spacebands that may not have dropped to normal position as the line is carried from casting position to the transfer. If the pawl was set too high, the spacebands would strike the second elevator bar, and wear the lower rail.

The bar should be set so that when the second elevator is seated at transfer position, the pawl, when raised to its highest point, will be in line with the bottom of the second elevator bar. This adjustment is made with the two screws that pass through the slide guide and touch the intermediate bar.

It is also necessary for both ends of the intermediate bar to be the same height. After adjusting the pawl, turn the machine until the transfer slide finger has entered the channel; lay a six-inch scale flat on the first elevator jaws in line with the bar, but clearing the pawl. Raise the first elevator slide by hand until the scale touches the bar. Adjust the bar horizontal with the scale by the same two screws that pass through top of the slide guide.

DUPLEX RAIL OPERATING BLOCKS

The first elevator jaw duplex rail operating blocks are fastened to the slide guide adjusting strip and have a limited adjustment, but when they are worn so they will not operate the rail properly, they should be renewed.

RELEASING LEVER

The releasing lever is for the purpose of preventing the transfer of a line in case the second elevator does not descend or seat properly. The adjusting screw in the side of the second elevator lever should raise the left end of the releasing lever 1/32 of an inch above the block on the transfer slide when the second elevator is seated in transfer position.

TRANSFER SLIDE

The transfer slide gets its motion from the transfer lever to which it is connected by means of a link.

The transfer lever gets its action from the split transfer cam lever and roller, which are held against cam No. 10 by a spring in the column.

The slide should be adjusted to allow 5-9/16 inches from the intermediate channel to slide finger. (Allow one inch more on 36-em machines). This adjustment should be made with the machine in normal position. Loosen the two screws on the split lever, move the slide finger 5-9/16 inches from the channel, and hold; then move the roller against the cam and tighten the screws. This adjustment is necessary so that a 30-em line, which measures 5 inches, will clear the transfer slide finger 5/32 of an inch. The last matrix is carried 13/32 of an inch inside the first elevator jaws. There will be a clearance of 5/32 of an inch from the first matrix and the transfer slide finger when the machine is in transfer position. Be sure the transfer finger is not bent when measuring this distance.

The cut in the slide finger should be flush with the left end of the second elevator bar plate, when it has transferred the line to the second elevator. This adjustment is made by the screw in the automatic safety pawl, which comes in contact with the buffer, on cam No. 10.

With the machine in transfer position, the cam lever roller is against the buffer in cam No. 10. The adjusting screw in the automatic safety pawl, being against the inner end of buffer, regulates the distance between the cut in the finger and second elevator bar plate. This adjustment, when properly made, insures the line being moved from the first to the second elevator. Turning the adjusting screw to the right increases the distance between the slide finger and the bar plate. Turning to the left decreases it.

The horizontal screw in the transfer slide should bank against the buffer in the spaceband lever to allow ⅛ of an inch between the cut in the slide finger and the spaceband lever pawl when the slide finger and spaceband lever pawl are at their closest point during transfer.

After the line has been transferred to the second elevator the spacebands, not having combinations, remain in the transfer channels and must be moved under the spaceband lever pawl so they can be returned to spaceband box. When the transfer cam lever roller is at the lowest part of cam No. 10, the adjusting screw in transfer slide, coming in contact with the buffer in the spaceband lever, regulates the distance between the cut in the slide finger and the bottom of the slot in the spaceband lever pawl.

SPACEBAND LEVER

The spaceband lever gets its motion from the transfer lever, through a turnbuckle which connects the transfer lever and the spaceband lever. The purpose of this form of coupling, so threaded that when connecting the two levers it may be turned to regulate the length of the connected parts, is to adjust the spaceband lever so the spaceband lever pawl will pass the highest point of the spaceband box rails, properly bringing the spacebands into the box.

Before making the spaceband lever adjustment, make sure that the transfer slide finger is properly adjusted. Then place the machine in normal position.

Adjust the turnbuckle so the hook of the pawl passes to the right of the highest point of the spaceband box rails not more than 1/16 of an inch. If there is too much space between the end of the pawl and the latch on the spaceband box, which is used as a lock, when recasting 30 ems the slide finger would move to the right against the line and force the matrix from the inner end of the first elevator before the pawl would come in contact with the latch. If the slide adjustments are properly made, the turning of the turnbuckle will have no effect in the adjustment of the slide finger.

SPACEBAND LEVER PAWL

The spaceband pawl is fastened to the spaceband lever by a pivot pin and held in place by a bushing, which fits over the pin. The screw which clamps the bushing to the pin extends downward through the top of the lever. The pawl pulls the spacebands back into the box after the transfer. The pawl should ride freely in the transfer channel, its bearing being a pin screwed into the back side of the pawl. This pin rides on the top of the transfer channel. The sidewise adjustment of the pawl is made by loosening the screw in the top of the transfer lever and allowing the machine to turn over for a few lines, the pawl thus seating itself. The spaceband pawl is held down on the transfer channel by a small spring. The tension of this spring should be strong enough to hold the spacebands from slipping from under the pawl.

MOLD SLIDE

The mold slide, which carries the mold disk and molds, moves in a slideway at the right of the metal pot and gets its action from cam No. 9, and the mold cam lever on which are assembled two rollers. One roller is fastened to the lever by a screw and a washer, and is seated in a depression in the rear end of the mold slide connecting the mold slide with cam No. 9. The other roller has as its bearing an adjustable eccentric pin fastened to the mold cam lever, and follows the contour of the cam in the right side of cam No. 9.

When a line of matrices is in position in front of the mold, the mold slide advances so that the lugs of the matrices will enter the aligning grooves of the mold. This position is held until the spacebands are driven up for justification and the line is raised for alignment. The slide then comes forward a second time for final lockup just as the metal pot locks against the back of the mold.

When the mold slide comes forward the first time there should be .010 of an inch space between the mold and the vise jaws or the line. This space between the mold and the jaws is regulated by the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever roller, and allows the proper justification and alignment of the matrices before the final lockup.

During the alignment and during the first justification, the matrices must be perfectly free, so that they may readjust themselves sidewise in the line. Hence the importance of preventing the mold from pressing forward against the matrices and spacebands at its first movement.

If the slide advances too far forward the aligning groove of the mold would engage the lugs of the matrices before the first elevator jaws were seated properly on the vise cap, shearing the lugs of the matrices. Or if the mold was forced to lockup tight against the line, it would prevent justifying properly, causing hair lines to show between the matrices or a squirt on the left-hand end. If there is too much space between the mold and the jaws, when the first elevator raises for alignment, the lugs of the matrices not being in the aligning groove, would permit the line of matrices to raise to the upper aligning groove of the mold, causing the line of matrices to be cast on the raised position; or if the aligning groove did not advance close to hold the lugs, there would be a small squirt.

The .010 of an inch adjustment also affects the lockup of the slide at ejecting position. If there is a trifle more space between the mold and the line than .010 of an inch, the mold will not seat against the banking blocks at ejecting point. This will sometimes allow the slug to twist slightly, causing it to be trimmed crooked.

To test this adjustment: Turn the casting mechanism until the first elevator jaws are resting on the vise cap; place a pig of metal under the head of the slide and on top of the vise automatic stop rod; fold a piece of newspaper three thicknesses, or proof paper until it measures about .010 of an inch; close the vise jaws; place the paper between the mold and the vise jaws; turn the machine by hand until the metal pot is just ready to move forward; pull up on the paper, which should bind a trifle as it is being withdrawn. If the paper does not bind or binds too tight it would show that the slide is out of adjustment.

To make the slide adjustment, place the paper between the jaws and the mold as in the test. Change the position of the mold slide by moving the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever roller so that the paper can be withdrawn, binding just a trifle. Moving the handle forces the mold slide either forward or backward, as desired.

The mold slide moves in the slideway on a gib. There should be .007 of an inch play between the mold slide and the gib because the mold slide will expand from the heat of the metal pot, but by having the above mentioned play, it will not bind, and will slide in and out freely.

This adjustment is made by the two square head screws under the gib on which the slide moves. There is no gib on the late model machines, and consequently no adjustment for the slideway.

As the mold slide advances, it slides up on the locking stud blocks on the vise, raising the slide approximately .007 of an inch. The screw beneath the mold disk guide on the mold gear arm should have a little clearance above it when the slide is forward on the locking stud blocks. There should be play enough to slip a sheet of paper between the screw and the guide when the mold disk is forward on the locking studs.

To remove a mold slide: Lower the vise to second position, disconnect the mold slide, and take out the ejector lever link. Pull forward on the slide and disk, assembled, and lift out.

MOLD DISK LOCKING STUDS AND BLOCKS

After the mold disk makes the one-quarter and three-quarter revolutions, the mold slide advances and the mold disk locking studs enter the locking stud blocks which are on the vise. This keeps the disk in position until the slug has been cast or ejected, as the case may be.

On old style machines the bushings are in the disk, and the studs are in the blocks. On all the new machines the studs are in the disk and each bushing and block is made in one piece. The blocks are held to the vise by the screws and dowel pins that pass through the front of the vise and screw into the blocks. The left-hand stud block on the newer models is loose sidewise, which permits the studs to enter the stud blocks with the minimum amount of wear to the parts.

The stud blocks can be renewed by taking the old ones off one at a time and using the remaining block as a guide.

The studs should be kept lubricated with a little graphite and grease. Too much will collect on the mold and get to the matrices.

EJECTOR SLIDE

The ejector slide is connected to the ejector lever, by means of a link, and is located in the channel cut in the side of the mold slide. It is operated by the ejector cam, which comes in contact with the ejector lever pawl. The cam is held tight to cam No. 9 by means of a screw and dowel pin. After the ejector lever is brought forward, it is pushed back into position by cam No. 10 coming in contact with a projection on the ejector lever. There is a buffer spring placed on the ejector slide which prevents the slide falling forward with a sudden jerk after the ejector lever has passed its center of gravity and the slug has passed the resistance of the trimming knives. The spring works on a rod which banks against the ejector blade guide. If this spring is not functioning, the slug will be thrown out on the floor.

EJECTOR BLADE

The blade is connected to the ejector slide by the pins that pass through the holes in the blade, the pins being operated by the springs, throw-out cam, and lever. The blade pushes the slug out of the mold, between the trimming knives, into the chase channel.

When the ejector blade advances to the ejecting position the front end should come flush with the bracket on the chase or galley. If it advanced beyond, the slug would be pushed out of the galley to the floor. If it does not advance flush, the slug not being pushed all the way out, would be turned to the right by the slug lever. The adjustment is made with the screw that passes through the ejector lever pawl.

If the blade advances beyond the bracket, turn in the pawl screw and raise the pawl. The higher the pawl is raised, the less distance the slug advances.

On machines that have the inclined galley, adjust blade to come flush with the bevel on the knife block liner.

EJECTOR GUIDE BLOCK

The outer end of the ejector blade is held in place and guided by the ejector guide block which sets directly back of the flange of the mold disk, and is held by two machine screws passing through each end of the block into the mold slide. This guide holds the blade in position so it will pass squarely through the mold. It also helps the buffer spring to steady the forward motion of the ejector. The point of contact of the ejector block with the ejector blade is made of brass and is held against the blade by spring tension.

The ejector blade guide should be kept free from oil, dirt, and metal shavings, as these impair the free working of the guide. The brass strip should be replaced when worn. Loose screws or a worn brass strip will cause slugs to be thrown out on the floor.

TO CHANGE AN EJECTOR BLADE

Push in on the starting and stopping lever; let the vise down to first position; back the machine by pushing back on cam No. 1 until the second elevator falls on the safety hook; turn the mold disk until the slot is in front of the blade; push the ejector lever forward; remove the blade by reaching the right-hand in alongside the mold slide and grasp the releasing lever and draw it towards the front. Change the blade for the size wanted, and then let machine come to normal position. Be careful not to get a blade wider than the slug to be cast or there is danger of damaging the liners, or the mold will be damaged. A good plan is always to check up on the ejector blade after changing the liners.

UNIVERSAL EJECTOR

The universal ejector consists of a series of blades, 5-points in thickness, in 2-em units; as a rule the first, or lower blade is a 4-em, and then in 2-em units up to 30-ems pica. These unit blades move between plates, which brace them firmly on both sides, making them rigid and preventing the blade from bending.

The back end of the unit blades are fastened to ejector blade links that move in grooves cut lengthwise of the slide. There is a link for each unit blade and they terminate at the back end of the mold slide in front of a groove milled across the slide. A movable controller bar works in a groove in the ejector slide, moving up or down in the groove, back of a lug on each of the blade links. When the ejector lever forces the ejector slide forward, the controller bar in the groove of the slide comes against the lugs of the ejector links forcing the blades forward through the mold.

The blades are withdrawn by a lug on the ejector slide coming in contact with the lugs on the links.

When desiring to change the length of the blade to be used, move the ejector blade controlling lever handle up or down. This handle is situated below the starting and stopping lever and is connected to the controller bar by a screw link. Also connected to this handle is a pica gauge which operates in a groove in the delivery channel.

Moving the handle up or down engages less or more blades, the length being indicated on the pica gauge in the delivery channel.

To remove the mold slide on machines which have a universal ejector, lower the vise to second position, set the ejector at 10 or 12 ems, take out the ejector blade controller link which screws into the controller link lift. This will permit the controller bar to drop out. Disconnect the mold slide and take out the ejector lever link. If the machine is connected up with the water for cooling the molds, it will be necessary to disconnect the hose before taking out the slide.

REMOVING A STUCK SLUG

When there is a slug stuck in the mold, allow the machine to come to normal by backing the machine sufficiently to allow the ejector lever pawl to be raised, draw back on the ejector lever until the pawl clears the ejector cam. Pull out the starting lever allowing the machine to come to normal. Open the vise and remove the slug from the mold by loosening the mold cap screws. Do not drive a stuck slug out with the ejector blade.

MOLD KNIFE

The mold or back knife trims the base of the slug and is fastened to the mold slide arm, back of the mold disk. It is placed at an angle of about 45 degrees and is held by two washers and two round-head screws which pass through the slotted holes of the knife. It is also held by two adjusting screws that set against the base so that the knife will set squarely and press lightly against the mold as the disk is turned from casting to the ejecting position. As the mold passes in front of the knife, the slug should be trimmed type-high, which is .918 of an inch.

The front of the mold disk, when turning, must be bearing against the mold disk guide so as to keep the mold against the knife while the slug is being trimmed. If the mold disk guide does not set snugly against the disk, the disk will spring away from the knife and the slug will be higher on one end than the other. The guide is adjusted by loosening the screw which holds it to the mold slide and moving it snugly against the mold disk. Do not set the guide tight enough to bind and prevent the free turning of the disk.

It sometimes happens that a disk will bind at one or more places as it is being turned. This is due to the disk becoming warped from heat or some other cause. If it is only a slight bind it will not interfere with the adjustment.

Whenever it is necessary to put on a new or resharpened mold knife, or to adjust it, be sure the mold disk guide is bearing against the rim of the mold disk. It is always better to remove the guide and clean it as it must be perfectly clean when it seats against the disk. Always have the knife away from the mold when seating the guide. Tighten the hexagon head screw slightly and then tap the guide until a slight pressure against the disk is secured. Turn the disk by hand until an even pressure has been secured and then tighten the hexagon head nut tight.

Place the mold knife on the knife seat; be sure the seat is clean, for the least particle of dirt or metal will make it more difficult to make the adjustment. Also the bottom of the mold must be perfectly clean and free from all metal. Set the knife square with, but not quite touching the mold. Tighten down on the two round-head screws, then adjust with the two screws under the bottom of knife so that mold will turn without binding. The left-hand end of the knife trims the ends of the slugs; the center of the knife trims the center of the slugs. Avoid excessive pressure on either side as the knife is so shaped that the sharp edge should just touch the mold.

After making sure that the guide block and the knife are properly set, cover the back of the mold with a thin coating of red lead; turn the disk and mold until the mold passes the knife. If the knife is adjusted properly, it should scrape the lead from the mold. It is not always an easy matter to set a mold knife, taking considerable patience and care because the knife must be set to thousandths of an inch. Cast a slug and measure with the micrometers to make sure the slug is trimmed to the proper height. When measuring the slug for height with micrometers, use a slug 15 picas in length, or one that fills half of the capacity of the mold. Have the regular letter characters cast on the slug.

Metal will adhere to the bottom of the mold if the mold knife is not sharp or properly adjusted. To keep a perfect lockup the bottom of the mold must be kept clean. Mold knives can be resharpened, but as they are shaped to set just so the edge of the knife touches the mold and must not vary, for even .001 of an inch will spoil the adjustment, they should be shipped to the nearest agency to be resharpened.

Be sure the knife is at fault before starting to adjust it.

MOLD BANKING STRIPS

The mold banking strips are fastened on the vise, one above the parallel knives and the other one below the bottom end of the knives. These strips prevent the mold from coming in contact with the knives and holds the disk rigid when ejecting the slug, assisting the knives in trimming the slug parallel. The mold slide should advance the proper distance so the mold will just bank against the banking strips when forward for ejecting the slug.

KNIFE BLOCK

At the present time there are two styles of knife blocks in common use, namely: The wedge adjustment block, which allows for a range from 5 to 12 points, inclusive; and the universal knife block which allows for a range from 5 to 36 points, inclusive. These blocks are fastened to the vise frame by two hexagon head machine screws and held rigid by four dowel pins. To remove the block it is only necessary to take out the two machine screws and work the block out of the dowel pin holes. A certain amount of care is necessary not to drop the block or bend the pins.

TRIMMING KNIVES

The purpose of the trimming knives is to trim the slugs to the proper size and the sides parallel.

The measurement of a type-founders point is .0138-⅓ of an inch. The measurement of a linotype point is .014 of an inch.

The point unit now used on the matrices is the one used by the type-founders. The linotype point is still being used when adjusting the trimming knives. A 10-point slug, when trimmed correctly, should measure .140 of an inch, or 10 times .014 of an inch.

The left-hand knife trims the overhang from the smooth side of the slug and is held to the vise by two square head screws that pass through the front, and is adjusted by two screws, at the top and bottom of the knife block and bearing against the knife. This knife should be adjusted to be in line with the left side of the mold; it is only intended to remove the fins which form at the top of the slug. It is not intended to remove metal from the smooth side of the slug.

If the left-hand knife does not trim the overhang off the slug, it will cause the slugs to be thicker at the top than at the bottom, and be off their feet. This will cause trouble in the lockup of the form, the columns having a tendency to raise up in the center.

Always loosen the two screws which hold the knife to the vise when making any adjustment of the left-hand knife. Turning in on the adjusting screws without loosening the two lock screws may cause the knife to spring and trim the slugs more in the center than on the ends.

The right-hand knife trims the slug to thickness and is held to the slide bracket on the universal knife block, by two round head screws. It is forced to the right against the adjusting screws by two springs. The screws that hold the knife to the bracket should be loose when moving the adjusting screws outward, as the spring should force the knife against the adjusting screws in this movement. It is not necessary to release the screws that hold the knife to the bracket when turning the screws inward as the screws are forced against the knife in this adjustment.

The screws in the sector are set to step from one point size to another and should not be changed except when necessary to trim any body size to a special thickness.

Beneath the bracket to which the knife is fastened are two spiral springs that force the bracket and knob button against the sector screws. Moving the lever operates the sector, and the screw coming in contact with the button on the slide causes the knife to move in or out one point or as many as the lever is moved. When casting a 10-point slug, have the pointer on figure 10.

After having the knives adjusted to trim one size slug, the knife block is constructed so as to trim all others, by merely moving the handle on the knife block. When changing the universal knife block, be sure that one of the lever detent pins has entered the hole in the sector.

To adjust the trimming knives, first set the right-hand knife by turning the two adjusting screws that are in the knife block slide bracket and touching the side of the knife, so it will trim the ribs of a slug; then adjust the knife that trims the overhang from the smooth side of the slug; then re-adjust the right-hand knife to thickness and parallel. Do not attempt to adjust the knife that trims the overhang from the smooth side of the slug unless the right-hand knife is trimming the ribs.

WEDGE STYLE KNIFE BLOCK

The wedge style knife block is the old style quick-change block and is held to the vise in the same manner as the universal block. The left-hand knife is mounted and adjusted the same as with the universal block. The right-hand knife is held to the block by two shoulder screws which pass through the two friction springs and washers from the front of the block. This assembly holds the knife tight against the block, but permits the two strong springs to force the knife against the wedge.

The wedge is operated by a small hand lever and is graduated from 5 to 12 points, inclusive. By pulling the lever up or down the wedge moves and the knife follows the wedge.

KNIFE, RIGHT HAND, SPRING PLATE

There is a steel plate assembled in the right side of the knife block which keeps the slugs upright as they travel through the knife block into the chase. This plate is called the knife spring plate and is held in place by two lugs at the back of the plate extending into the base of the right-hand knife. It is forced toward the left by a flat bronze spring, called the spring plate spring. There should be just enough tension on this spring to force the plate up against the outgoing slug with an even pressure so the slug will be held upright as it is being pushed into the chase by the ejector blade. The flat spring is so shaped that the ends fit behind rivet heads, to hold the plate in place. If the spring becomes bent so it will not stay behind the rivets, the lugs will work out of their seat and the gate will obstruct the passageway of the slug. This will oftentimes smash the face of the slugs.

FACTS AND SUGGESTIONS ABOUT TRIMMING KNIVES

The right-hand knife must be adjusted so that its edge is exactly parallel with the left-hand knife in order to make the slug of equal thickness throughout its entire length. The faces of the two knives separate slightly toward the front of the machine, which allows the slug to pass freely forward from the cutting edges. The right-hand knife must be shaped so there is a cutting edge of about 1/64 of an inch on the side that stands next to the slug. By having this edge the “gouging” of the knife into the slug is prevented, and slugs are trimmed to equal thickness at the top and bottom. This cutting edge must never be more than 1/64 of an inch.

Always remember that the knives can be set to trim the slugs perfectly from one point-size to another with accuracy, but it requires patience, as the knives must be adjusted to a thousandth part of an inch.

Keep the knife block and the knives clean. The seat of the knives should also be clean. It will be impossible to get an accurate adjustment if dirt or gum interferes with the movement of the knives.

The trimming knives should have exceedingly sharp or thin edges to work satisfactorily. If the knives become very dull or the cutting edge rounded or nicked, they should be taken off the machine and reground. Send them to the nearest agency as they are equipped with grinders and other fixtures to do this regrinding and maintain the correct angles and shape of the knives. Always send both the right-hand and left-hand knives, as they should be reground in pairs, and the cutting edges should exactly match each other in order to obtain good results.

Use a full measure slug when adjusting the trimming knives. Cast a full line of capital letters on the slug and hold the matrices for recast. Measure the slug on the ribs at the top and near the bottom. The slug should measure the same at the top edge and near the bottom if the knife which trims the smooth side is correctly set. The slug should measure the same at the top edge of both ends if the knife which trims the rib side of the slug is correctly set.

Before setting the trimming knives, make sure that the mold is properly seated in the mold disk and that there is no metal between the liners and the mold.

When the trimming knives become dull it is practically impossible to set them to trim accurately. Even when they are set nearly accurate, they will hold the adjustment only a short time.

Dull knives also cause trouble by making it difficult to eject the slug. This will often cause the clutch to slip.

When a long slug measures thicker or thinner at the ends than in the center, it is usually due to dull knives, but may be caused by the knives being forced in a twist or strain by the adjusting screws or some foreign substance behind the knives.

KNIFE WIPER

The knife wiper is a very important part of the Linotype. Its function is to wipe the burrs or slug trimmings from the face of the parallel knives after a slug is ejected. If the knife wiper is not working, the face of the line of type will have an accumulation of shavings from the previous line on it.

The knife wiper in use on all machines of very recent manufacture is operated by a small roller, fastened to a bracket on the first elevator slide, which comes in contact with a lever connected to the knife wiper bar. When the elevator goes from normal to the lower, or casting, position, the knife wiper bar is forced upward. On the upper end of the knife wiper bar is a small brass wiper which is forced upward with the bar. This wiper rubs against the trimming knives, cleaning them of the metal shavings which may have lodged from the previous slug trimmed.

There are no adjustments on this type of wiper, except to have the brass lightly touching the knives.

OLD STYLE KNIFE WIPER

There are quite a number of the old style knife wipers still in use. This knife wiper is operated by a latch rod on the first elevator lever. This rod comes in contact with a latch on the knife wiper bar, on its downward stroke, and pushes the bar upward by coming in contact with the bottom of wiper bar on the upward stroke of the first elevator lever. The wiper bar should be free to move up and down in the guides, moving the brass wiper lightly over the face of the trimming knives. On the upper part of the wiper bar are two pins which prevent the bar from going too far below the knives and too high above them. A flat spring riding over the top of the bar holds it to the bottom of the guide so the brass wiper can operate properly.

The brass wiper is held to the bar with two flat head screws, and the constant passing of the wiper over the face of the sharp knives soon wears the wiper so it will break off. A new wiper must be applied or the shavings will hang to the slugs.

Never have the wiper bearing too hard on the face of the knife as the constant rubbing up and down will dull the trimming edge of the knives and wear the wiper in a short time.

Keep the knife wiper in good working condition all the time and save proofreader’s marks.

Do not forget that the knife wiper is operated by the first elevator slide. Therefore anything that prevents the free action of the wiper will interfere with the movement of the first elevator.

MOLD TURNING CAM, SQUARE BLOCK, AND PINION

The mold turning cam, known as cam No. 3, has attached to its side the long and short gear segments which impart rotation to the mold turning pinion and square block as the cam revolves. The square block and pinion are found on the inside of the mold gear arm. The gear segments on the mold turning cam turns the pinion, the pinion turns the mold turning shaft, and the mold turning shaft turns the mold disk, through the mold disk pinion which meshes with the mold disk. The short segment turns the mold disk one-quarter of a revolution so as to bring the mold disk into casting position. The long segment turns the disk three-quarters of a revolution, bringing the mold and disk in ejecting position. The mold disk makes one complete revolution in one revolution of the cams.

When the disk makes one-quarter revolution, it is advanced so as to lock the stud block on the vise with the studs on the mold disk, and the slug is cast; the mold then is withdrawn and makes a three-quarter revolution, advancing again and locking to eject the slug. When the mold disk makes the quarter and three-quarter revolutions, all lost motion must be taken up by the square block on the pinion. If there is any lost motion, the studs on the mold disk would not be parallel with the stud blocks on the vise so that they could not enter them without coming in contact with the rim of the stud block.

ADJUSTING SHOES

On the mold turning cam are two adjustable steel shoes for the purpose of taking up the play between the shoes and the square block when in the casting and ejecting position. These shoes are adjusted by screwing in on the bushing screws that extend through the cam and bank against the shoes. Each shoe is held in place by two machine screws that extend through the bushing screw into the shoe. When adjusting the shoes care must be taken to make them parallel. The distance from the front end of each shoe to the outside of the cam must be the same as it is from the back end of the shoe to the outside of the cam. If these shoes are adjusted wider at the back than at the front they act as wedges as they go down by the square pinion, and may break the cam at the weakest point. If a shoe is set too tight against the square pinion it will break the cam. All that is necessary is to adjust them so as to take up the lost motion between the shoes and the square pinion. It is better to use a micrometer to measure the shoes to make sure they are parallel. Allow a trifle lost motion between the square block and the shoes, because it is better for them to have a little play than to be too tight and perhaps break the cam.

The square block and pinion are held in position on the shaft by a set screw, and there is no adjustment except to have this screw on the top when the machine is in normal position. The screw passes through the square block to the shaft and must enter the spot drilled on the shaft for the point of the screw so as to hold the pinion tight. On the two sides of the square block are two steel shoes, which are held to it by screws. These shoes can be renewed when they become worn.

MOLD DRIVING SHAFT FRICTION CLAMP

The object of the friction clamp is to prevent the mold disk from vibrating when advancing to the casting or ejecting position, and is found attached to the mold driving shaft and held by a pin in the mold gear arm. The lost motion in several pinions from which the mold disk gets its action, will cause the disk to vibrate when stopping ready to advance on the vise stud blocks, unless it is held by the clamp which acts as a brake.

When the mold disk has made the one-quarter and three-quarter revolutions it must remain in that position, or the locking studs, coming in contact with the rims of the stud block, would wear.

The friction clamp which overcomes the vibration is made in two sections, with a leather lining, and connected to the mold turning shaft. A spring, washer, and lock nut add to its construction. The pin in the mold gear arm to which it is also connected prevents it from turning with the shaft. Do not have more friction than necessary, for if there is too much, the main clutch could not drive the machine, as the strong friction on the clamp would overcome the pull of the clutch spring.

RETIMING MOLD GEARS

There are various methods of retiming the gears of the mold disk drive in case it is necessary to pull the disk forward while the machine is out of normal.

One method is to observe the position of the mold turning segments. Remember that the short segment causes the mold to revolve one-quarter revolution, or from normal to casting position. The long segment causes the mold to revolve three-quarters revolution, or from casting to ejecting position. The mold disk turns counter-clockwise. Place the gears in mesh so the punch marks on the gears register. Lock the mold slide in position. The drive pinion makes one complete revolution for each quarter revolution of the mold disk, and it goes on the connection pin at any complete revolution. Hold out on the drive pinion and turn the disk and drive pinion by hand the distance indicated by the amount of the segments which have passed the square block drive pinion. When the connecting pin enters the hole in the drive pinion, with the mold in the estimated position, the disk should be in time. Be sure the mold which is being used is the one which is placed in this position. For example, if the short segment and half of the long segment have passed the square block drive pinion, the mold should be turned one-half the distance from casting to ejection position. To observe what part of the segment is past the pinion, look directly underneath the frame of the machine which supports the mold turning shaft.

Another method of putting the disk in time is to disregard the position of the cams, connect the mold slide, and bring the disk, with the mold that is being used, into ejecting position. Hold the mold turning pinion away from the pin that connects it to the shaft, so that the disk will not revolve as the machine is set in motion. Pull out on the starting and stopping lever, thus letting the machine run around to normal position. Be sure that the disk locking studs are parallel with the stud blocks before starting the machine.

It is only necessary to let the vise down, disconnect the mold lever from the slide, and put the disk and drive pinion in time.

THE JUSTIFICATION LEVERS AND VISE JUSTIFICATION

The two justification levers are located under the metal pot and main cams, extend forward from the back of the machine, and connect with the vise justification rods. These levers operate the justification rods and bar, assembled on the vise, and the vise closing lever. The levers get their motion from rollers which follow the contour of cams No. 4 and 5, and are held against the cams by two strong springs in the rear of the machine. The justification bar rests on top of two rods that are forced up and down by the justification levers in guides in the frame of the vise. The rods are connected together by the justification bar and a diagonal brace rod, the various parts being connected by wing pins. The function of the justification bar is to drive the spacebands upward to justify the line just before the line is cast.

The right-hand lever is called the first justification lever and is operated by cam No. 5. There are two upward movements of this lever: The preliminary, which justifies the line lightly; and the final, which justifies the line tightly for the cast.

When the justification lever forces the rods upward for the first justification, the rod block moves upward at a slight angle, striking the spaceband at the right-hand end of the line first, and the others in quick succession. This action is so rapid that all the spacebands appear to move upward simultaneously. This causes the line to spread from right to left. After the first justification the spacebands stand at an uneven height, those at the right of the line being a trifle higher than those at the left. Since the line of matrices must fill the entire space between the jaws in order to cast, it is apparent that in order to get the greatest possible freedom of action it is necessary that the matrices be pushed toward the left gradually. Should the rod block come up perfectly horizontal, the spacebands would move to the left at the same time they are moving upward. This would cause them to drag on the rod block and prevent a good lockup and alignment and a possibility of bending the spacebands. By coming up on a slight angle, each band is practically justified separately in its particular part of the line, and the dragging of the bands on the rod block is greatly reduced.

The justification lever also makes a slight upward movement after the slug has been ejected. This movement operates the slug lever, through a roller, and pushes the slugs forward in the stick.

The spring which operates the first justification lever should be strong enough to justify the line properly, regardless of the number of spacebands in the line. Before changing the tension at any time, be sure that the mold slide is properly adjusted. If the mold should lock too tight against the line it would bind the matrices and prevent proper justification. This would give the appearance of weak justification springs.

The left-hand lever is called the vise closing lever, and is U-shaped on the forward end. One arm is connected by a hinge pin to the left-hand vise closing wedge and block. The other arm grooves around the left-hand justification rod, beneath a lug on the rod.

After the line is brought to the casting position, the vise closing lever moves upward, immediately followed by the justification lever. The vise closing lever locks the left-hand vise jaw against the line and assists the justification lever on its second movement upward. While these two levers move almost in unison, their functions are different. On second justification, the vise closing lever moves upward slightly in advance of the first justification lever and supports the left-hand end of the spaceband driving block, so that the spacebands are all driven to an equal height. On the first justification, the vise closing lever does not come in contact with the spaceband driving block.

The justification spring is stronger than the vise closing spring. If for any reason the justification springs are removed, care should be taken that they are not changed while replacing them.

THE VISE

The vise is that part of the machine which carries, as its main parts, the first elevator slide, the vise justification rods, the trimming knives, the vise automatic, the vise jaws, the slug lever, the mold disk locking stud blocks, the mold banking blocks, and the knife wiper.

The bottom end of the vise is hinged to the base of the machine by a shaft. The top part is locked to the machine by the vise locking screws, which interlock with the vise locking studs on the frame.

To open the vise to first position, push the control lever all the way in, and turn the handles of the locking screws in a vertical position, in which position they will be disengaged from the vise locking studs.

The vise may be opened to first position at any time when the mold disk is not forward on the locking studs, or the first elevator is not in the top guide. The vise should never be opened to first position when the mold disk is forward on the locking studs because it is difficult to get it relocked on the studs against the lockup pressure; also there is danger of getting the ends of justification levers out of position under the collars on the justification rods.

To open the vise to second position, let the machine turn forward until the first elevator is resting on the vise cap, just before the mold disk advances. Then lower to first position. Hold the vise up with the left hand, release pawl at the extreme bottom end of vise frame and let the vise down easily, pulling up on the first elevator slide with the right hand. This keeps the link from being damaged.

Never let the vise down to second position unless the first elevator is in the lower position. To do so would throw the weight of the vise on the first elevator lever, with danger of breaking the lever.