Chapter VI: Part 6

The vise locking studs are set at the factory to give the proper alignment of the vise with the mold. The studs often have a very thin washer between their back shoulder and the frame to give them the proper adjustment. Should it be necessary to remove or replace a stud, be careful not to lose or leave out the washers. Neither should more washers be added. To do so would force the vise in a strain when locked up, and cause an improper height of the slug.

VISE JAWS

The vise jaws, between which the line is justified, regulates the position of the face of the type on each end of the slug. The mold liner regulates the length of the slug. The vise jaws should be adjusted to have the face of the type flush with each end of the slug.

The short, or right-hand, jaw is adjusted by the adjusting screw in the knife block, under the right-hand vise locking pin. When the line is being justified, the matrix on the right-hand end is forced against the face of the short jaw. The matrix on the left is forced against the face of the long, or left-hand, jaw which is held tight by the vise closing screw on the older models, or the vise closing wedge on the newer models.

When it is desired to change the measure to be set, adjust the left-hand jaw with the adjusting rod. One-half em is the shortest distance the long jaw can be adjusted with the rod. If it is necessary to adjust less than this distance use the adjusting bushing which screws in the bracket. This applies to machines that are equipped with the vise closing wedge.

On the older models, remove the screw that passes through the vise closing screw arm and screws into the adjusting flange. Then adjust the vise closing screws, which move the nut in or out.

PUMP STOP

The pump stop prevents the pump lever from operating if the line is not properly justified. The short, or right-hand, vise jaw operates the pump stop operating lever. When the line is justified the right-hand jaw is moved to the right against the adjusting screw in the operating lever which forces the stop lever from under the catch block, allowing the pump lever to operate. If the line is not justified, the right-hand jaw does not touch the adjusting screw and the stop lever is allowed to remain under the catch block. This prevents the pump lever from operating.

The pump stop should have 1/32 of an inch between the pump stop lever and pot lever block when line is properly justified.

The pump stop lever is found under the pot lever block. It is connected to a bracket by a screw, and operated by a spring and operating lever. The adjustment is made with the screw in the operating lever.

To test this adjustment, push the right-hand jaw toward the right and observe if the lever is clearing the block the proper distance.

When the line is justified the pump stop operating lever, which is forced to the right by the short vise jaw, should have a trifle lost motion; if not, the position of the type on the right end of the slug would be regulated by the adjusting screw in the pump stop operating lever instead of the adjusting screw in the knife block.

THE FRICTION CLUTCH

The driving shaft of the machine is in two sections: The shaft proper, and the short shaft that carries the driving pinion. This pinion meshes with the driving gear, the two shafts being held together by a taper pin. The driving pinion makes eleven revolutions to one of the gear, the ratio being 11 to 1.

The outer end of the driving shaft is hollow. Inside of the hollow shaft is a clutch rod and a spring. The spring fits against a collar on this rod and draws the rod inward. The inner end of the clutch rod is fastened by means of a long screw pin extending through a hole in the rod to a collar which encircles the shaft, the hole in the shaft being slotted, so that when the collar is moved the rod moves also. On the outward end of the shaft is mounted the friction clutch, the levers being fastened to the end of the clutch rod. The friction clutch is keyed to the hollow shaft, so when the clutch is turned it also turns the shaft.

Pressure on a forked lever fulcrumed to the base of the machine, one end of which encircles the collar and the other end touching the lower stop lever, holds the clutch out of action. When the pressure of the forked lever against the collar is released, the clutch spring expands and the clutch rod moves the collar inward until the leather buffers are pushed against the inner surface of the driving pulley, causing the shaft to rotate.

After the machine has made a complete revolution, a pawl on cam No. 10 contacts the upper stopping lever and through the lower stopping lever forces the forked lever against the collar, throwing the friction out of action.

THE CLUTCH SPRING

The clutch spring is held in place by a small collar on the inside end of the clutch rod and a screw bushing on the outside, by which the tension of the spring is regulated. This tension should be sixteen to twenty pounds. A screw pin passes through a slot in the shaft, through the clutch rod, and into the opposite side of the collar. The outer end of the clutch rod is connected to the friction clutch by a screw which passes through the clutch rod. By taking off the clutch and hooking a balance spring in the screw hole in the rod and pulling out on the scale, the instant the rod moves the scale indicates the tension of the spring registered. One end of the clutch rod is connected to the collar on the shaft, and the other end is connected to the clutch. When the collar is moved the clutch rod also moves in the same direction.

When the clutch rod spring is adjusted to a tension of 16 to 20 pounds it gives about the right friction to carry the machine through all its operations where everything is working properly, but if anything sticks or makes the machine run hard, the clutch will slip.

FRICTION CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS

There are three positions of the starting and stopping lever: Starting, operation, and stopping. When pulled all of the way out the lever is in starting position. When the lever is in starting position, the eccentric screw in the starting and stopping lever pulls against the lug in the vertical lever and causes the upper lug to force the automatic stopping pawl off the upper stopping lever. This sets the machine in action. When the lever is half way out it is in operating position and allows the machine to start when a line is sent in. When the lever is pushed all the way in the clutch is thrown out of action and the machine is stopped.

When making any adjustments, have the lever in starting position (out as far as it will go). If the automatic stopping pawl is resting on the upper stopping lever, the adjustments could not be made, as the lower stopping lever would be forcing the forked lever against the collar, throwing the friction clutch out of action.

The friction clutch should be adjusted so as to have 15/32 of an inch between the collar and the shaft bearing. Place a 15/32 inch gage between the right-hand side of the collar and the left-hand side of the shaft bearing. If the distance is less than 15/32 of an inch, dress the leather buffers with a file. If the distance is more, place cardboard under the buffers to increase the thickness. On old-style machines this adjustment was made by two nuts, one on each side of the clutch rod. Putting cardboard under the buffers will not satisfactorily drive the machine if something else is wrong. If there is too much packing under the leathers the starting and stopping lever will have no effect on the clutch and the machine will not stop properly.

The upper stopping lever and the lower stopping lever are fastened by pin pivots to a steel shaft which passes through the vertical lever. This allows a limited up and down movement of the stopping levers. The shaft is held in position by a set screw in the top of the vertical lever bracket. When the machine is in action the forked lever must be free of the collar. If it is not, the clutch does not get the proper pressure on the inside of the pulley, because the forked lever would push against the collar and force the rod and clutch outward. To be sure the forked lever is free of the collar, adjust so there is 1/32 of an inch between the lower stopping lever and the forked lever. This adjustment is made by the screw in the lower part of the upper stopping lever.

When the upper stopping pawl comes to rest on the upper stopping lever, it forces the adjusting screw in the lower part of the upper stopping lever against the lower stopping lever, and the bottom end of the lower stopping lever causes the forked lever to force the collar out, throwing the clutch out of action and stopping the machine. This gives a horizontal movement from a vertical action. The automatic stop pawl should rest on the upper stopping lever ¼ of an inch when the machine is at normal. This adjustment is made by loosening the set screw which holds the shaft in the vertical starting lever, and moving the lever sidewise. When the stopping pawl rests ¼ of an inch on the upper stopping lever, the automatic safety pawl will also rest on it exactly the same, as both pawls are adjusted the same.

Fastened to cam No. 10 are two pawls. One is the automatic stopping pawl and stops the machine after it has made one complete revolution. The other is the automatic safety pawl, and stops the machine when a line fails to transfer from the first to the second elevator. These two pawls are adjusted by screws that pass through the pawl and strike the lug of the cam, and are held against this lug with a spring. The distance from the left-hand side of the pawl to the left-hand side of the cam should be 15/16 of an inch.

The vertical lever is fastened to the column, at the back of the machine above the forked lever, by a hexagon head machine screw at its upper end. The lower end is held in place by the shaft which passes through the lever into the machine frame. The only time the vertical lever is in action is when the machine is started by the starting and stopping lever. On the starting lever is an eccentric screw which stands behind the lower lug of the vertical lever. When the starting and stopping lever is pulled out, the eccentric screw engages the lower lug and pulls it forward, causing the upper lug to push the stopping or safety pawls clear of the upper stopping lever. There are three lugs on the vertical lever: The upper lug, the lower lug, and the lug inside of the bracket.

There is a headless screw in the vertical lever bracket, the front end encircled by a spring. This spring forces the vertical lever back to its normal position after the lever has been pulled forward by the starting and stopping lever. When pulled forward, the upper lug strikes against the automatic stopping pawl forcing it clear of the upper stopping lever. This adjustment is made by means of the headless screw in the lever bracket. The proper adjustment forces the stopping pawl 1/16 of an inch clear of the upper stopping lever. The lug inside the bracket should permit the upper lug to clear the stopping pawl 1/64 of an inch when the lug is at rest. This adjustment is made by turning the adjusting screw in the column opposite the headless screw. This screw regulates the stroke of the inner lug.

Unless the upper vertical lug, after pushing the stopping pawls off the upper stopping lever, returns clear of the pawls, it would prevent the pawls from seating properly on the upper stopping lever.

The adjustment of the lower lug of the vertical lever and the eccentric screw on the starting lever should be made by releasing the set nut on the eccentric screw and turning the screw until there is 1/32 of an inch between the screw and the lug. If this adjustment is not properly made it will interfere with the upper lug and throw it out of adjustment.

FRICTION CLUTCH HINTS

To remove the friction clutch: Push in on the starting and stopping lever. Take out the fulcrum screw or remove the nut from the outer end of the clutch rod. Remove the clutch arm key screw. The clutch can now be removed. Be careful in replacing the friction to have the key with the bevel down and toward the back of the keyway.

The driving pulleys or gear can be removed only when the friction clutch is removed.

To remove the clutch rod spring: Remove the friction clutch. Unscrew the screw bushing from the end of the shaft, take out the screw extending through the collar, and pull out the clutch rod and the spring.

If the machine stops on the upper stopping lever with a jerk, the inner side of the driving pulley or the friction clutch leathers are gummy or the friction is out of adjustment.

The inner surface of the driving pulley must be kept clean.

If the machine slows up while casting or ejecting, the clutch is slipping.

The 15/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the nut on the clutch rod on the old style, and by building up under the leathers on the new.

The 1/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the screw in the lower part of the upper stopping lever.

The machine will not stop when the key screw in the clutch arm works loose, allowing the friction clutch to work toward the outer end of the shaft.

A screw holding the clutch leather shoe in place, may extend above the shoe and cause the friction to slip.

The friction link collar, where it fastens on to the clutch rod, should be parallel with the driving pulley or gear when the machine is in operating position; if not, there is unequal pressure on the links and shoes, causing a slipping clutch.

Study the friction clutch adjustments, but do not change them every time something stops the machine. It is much easier to break an adjustment than to make one.

A piece of metal from a squirt lodged between the mold disk guide or back of the rim on the disk will cause it to bind, placing more pull on the clutch.

STAY BOLT

The stay bolt passes through the main cam shaft bracket cap and screws into the column. The object of the stay bolt is to take the strain from the column. When the machine is in casting position with the pot locking against the mold, the mold and disk forcing against the vise, and the right-hand side of the vise locking against the stud, there is considerable strain on the column. If the column should spring, the vise would also move and the lockup would be imperfect. In applying the stay bolt, never tighten it with a wrench. If too tight, it will spring the bracket cap and cause the cam shaft to bind and the clutch will not drive the machine. Screw it in with your fingers until the head of the bolt bears lightly against the bracket.

VISE AUTOMATIC

The purpose of the vise automatic is to prevent the mold from coming forward and shearing the lugs of the matrices whenever anything prevents the first elevator from descending low enough for the first elevator adjusting screw to rest on the vise cap.

The vise automatic consists of a stop rod, stop rod pawl, mold disk dog, and vise automatic levers.

The stop rod is suspended and held upward by a spring, the top end of the rod extending through the vise cap and the lower end resting back of the lever which operates against the clutch rod.

A little below center in the stop rod is the stop rod pawl. This pawl is held in place in a slot by a small coil spring which sets just back of the pawl in the stop rod. This spring, in addition to holding the pawl in place, also gives the pawl a little play which allows more of a bite when the pawl is placed in action.

The mold disk dog is held in the vise frame by a screw which extends downward through a slotted hole in the dog. Inside the mold disk dog is a coil spring. This spring is to hold the dog back toward the mold and should be strong enough to keep the mold disk dog pin against the retaining screw when the vise automatic is not in action.

When the first elevator is in its lowest position the vise automatic adjusting screw touches the upper end of the stop rod and forces it downward. When the mold slide advances, the mold opposite the one in use pushes the mold disk dog out, above the pawl, and allows the machine to remain in action. However, should the first elevator fail to descend low enough for the stop rod to be pushed down, the dog, as it is advanced by the mold, strikes against the pawl and forces it forward against the vise automatic levers, stopping the machine.

The mold disk dog must clear the automatic stop rod when the first elevator adjusting screw is resting on the vise cap.

To make this adjustment turn the machine until the first elevator is resting on the vise cap. Move the adjusting screw so the stop rod pawl will just pass below the dog. To test, have machine in normal position, place a thin matrix on the vise cap under the first elevator adjusting screw. Pull out on the starting and stopping lever, setting the machine in action. The first elevator, not going to its proper position, the driving clutch should be forced out of action by the vise automatic. After backing the machine a trifle and removing the matrix, the machine should start.

The machine will not stop when making this test, if either the lip of the disk dog, or the pawl is damaged. If damaged or worn, replace with new parts, as the vise automatic should always be in working condition.

If the machine is delayed in stopping when the vise automatic goes into action, look at the 15/32 and 1/32 inch adjustments on the friction clutch.

When replacing the mold disk dog, be sure that the screw goes between the spring and the pin. This is accomplished by turning the screw down until it is below the level of the pin. Then push in on the dog until the pin strikes the screw. Raise the screw slowly until the pin will just pass under the end of the screw, pushing in on the dog while the screw is being raised. Push in on the dog and turn the screw down just inside the pin. The screw will then be between the spring and the pin. Be careful not to turn the screw down on the spring, as it will damage the spring and not allow the dog to operate.

On the machines with four-pocket mold disks, the dog is pushed forward as the mold slide comes forward in ejecting position. This action of the dog would operate the automatic, throwing the clutch out of action and stopping the machine at ejecting position. To overcome this action, there is a stop rod lever and bracket assembled on the vise frame in front of the automatic stop lever. The lever is fastened to the bracket by a fulcrum screw. One end of this lever carries a small roller, and the other end rests above a pin in the stop rod. The roller runs on a runway at the back of the first elevator slide on the right-hand side. The stop rod is pulled down below the mold disk dog by the lever until the slide moves downward, the roller follows the runway, when owing to a depression, the roller drops, releasing the lever and permitting the stop rod to come to operating position in front of the dog. As the slide moves to transfer position, the lever pulls the stop rod down below the dog.

FILLING PIECE AND SAFETY LUG

Attached to all new machines is a filling piece that is known as the simple two-letter attachment. This attachment is fastened by two screws to the vise cap, and when in operating position, it prevents the first elevator from dropping down to normal position. This attachment permits the assembling of a line of matrices in the regular position and casting them in the auxiliary position. Whenever this attachment is used, the duplex rails on the assembling elevator must not be used.

On all machines carrying headletter or special display molds, the simple two-letter attachment must always be used instead of the duplex rails.

At the side of these special molds there is a small lug fastened to the mold disk. This is known as a safety stop. When operating, a machine equipped with these special molds, if the simple two-letter attachment should not be placed in position, this safety stop would immediately come in contact with a safety plate, fastened to the first elevator back jaw, holding the first elevator off the vise cap and allowing the vise automatic to stop the machine, preventing a squirt, and damage to the first elevator jaws.

MODEL 9

The Model 9 is equipped with four superimposed interchangeable magazines, any-one of which may be instantly brought into use by merely shifting a lever. These magazines are not interchangeable with the No. 5 magazines. The machine is built along the same general lines of all Linotypes and has a regular keyboard of 90 characters.

The magazines may be changed from the front of the machine. Each magazine is provided with escapements controlling the delivery of the matrices. These escapements are actuated by a single series of escapement rods mounted in a frame on the assembler front. Each rod has four notches in its edge. Shifting the hand lever raises or lowers the frame in which the rods are assembled and connects their upper ends with the escapements of any one of the magazines. This same movement connects these rods through one of the series of notches to the keyrods which are operated by the usual keyboard mechanism.

Each magazine has a standard type distributing mechanism. The machine has a primary distributor box for all the magazine through which the matrices must pass before passing to their regular distributor. The dropping of the matrices into their right magazines is governed by a series of slot combinations cut in the bottom of the matrix and a corresponding bridge placed in the primary box. A mixed line out of any two or all four of the magazines may be set in this machine, the matrices being separated in the primary distributor and then dropping into their regular magazine.

TABULAR ATTACHMENTS

There are two attachments in common use for setting tabular composition. These are the Chicago Lino-Tabler and the Rogers Tabular.

The Chicago Lino-Tabler equipment can be used on any model machine with any font of matrices from 5 point up to and including 14 point. This equipment consists of twenty matrices, a broach, quad block and slide for casting box rules, and special triangular-shaped brass rule for use between columns.

The matrices are cut to run in the vertical rule channel. In the matrices are two small slots from which two lugs or fins are cast on the slug. When using these matrices on the models 9, 16, 17, and 24, the magazine in which they are to run must be designated.

There are four styles of rule available, two hairline faces, a one-point face, and parallel rules. The rules are held on the top surface of the slugs, and are clamped down by bending the lugs or fins over with a make-up rule.

Cross rule is cast in the regular slug form from the block and slide. Box headings or rule forms are made by using the broach which punches small triangular notches through the top edge of the rule slug. This permits the vertical rule to be inserted, forming a close joint.

The Rogers Tabular can only be used on machines that are equipped with the attachment. When using this attachment the matrices that run in the vertical rule channel are used in the assembled line where rules are wanted. From these matrices on the slug are cast two slots in which the rules are inserted. All other characters are punched .144 of an inch deeper than the standard, which necessitates using a low mold. When changing from regular to tabular, first turn the tabular mold into normal position; second, move lever which is attached to the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever so it is locked in the rear sector block. Doing so moves the mold slide forward the difference in the thickness of the regular and low mold. Third, loosen screw and turn eccentric bushing in pot lever half way, which moves pot forward the distance the mold slide has been moved. Fourth, connect one end of the return spring to the hook which is in the rear of the machine. This spring is for the purpose of relieving the mold cam lever of the added strain when the slug is moved from the line after casting. It is also necessary to use the tabular spacebands, which also can be used with standard matrices.

ADVERTISING FIGURES

To use the advertising figures it is necessary to have the machine equipped with a mold, the cap of which is thicker than the standard, also the universal knife block. When using the figures, which can be cast at any place in the line, open the knife so the figure will pass through without being trimmed. Leave space on the next line to support the overhang. Close the knife so the slug will be trimmed. The grooves in this mold being ground parallel, the slug that is not trimmed will lock up without tipping against the one that is trimmed.

MAKING MACHINE CHANGES

When it is desired to change the size of type and measure on the linotype a definite procedure should be followed. There are eight distinct operations in making a complete change from one size to another. By following the same order each time there is less danger of forgetting one or more changes, which may cause damage to the machine. Any one of the eight changes can be made independent of the other, but the habit formed by always keeping in the same order is a good one.

The suggested order of changes is as follows:

1. Change the _mold liners_. This is done when it is desired to
change the _length_ or _thickness_ of the slug.

2. Change the _ejector blade_. This is done when the _length_ of
the slug is changed. A blade six points in thickness will work on
any thickness slug six points or above.

3. Change the side _trimming knives_. This change must be made when
the _thickness_ of the line is changed.

4. Change the left hand _vise jaw_. This must be changed when the
_length_ of the line is changed.

5. Change the _assembler slide_. This must be changed when the
_length_ of the line is changed.

6. Change the line delivery slide _long finger_. This must be
changed when the _length_ of the line is changed.

7. Change the _magazine_. This is to be changed when a different
_size_ or _font_ of type is desired.

8. Change the _font distinguisher_. This must be changed if the
_point size_ of matrices is changed.

CARE OF THE MACHINE

The following schedule of work should be performed on each machine in a shop or school, in regular periods as indicated by the caption under which each item is listed.

In a school where each student is to care for a certain machine, the various operations should be performed at a certain specified time, all students working on the same schedule at one time.

In a shop where machinists do this work it will be necessary to form a regular routine including all the items of the working schedule, so that each machine will receive its proper care at a certain specified time. Of course it will be necessary to distribute this work so that it will not interfere with the productive time of the machine and so that the machinists can have time to care for the ordinary machine troubles as they occur during the productive time. Much of the regular care of the machines can be done by helpers outside the hours when the operators are at work. In making such a schedule, each machine should be listed, by number, for certain operations each day. In this way it will be a simple matter for the head machinist to check up on the work, for by referring to the schedule he can determine what work should be performed on each machine for any particular day. Of course, the schedule must vary in minor points in various shops, due to climatic conditions. Dirt is the chief offender in causing machine trouble, therefore the cleanliness of the building in which the machines are located will very frequently cause a variation in the working schedule.

The following schedule will be found sufficient for the average linotype and if followed efficiently, will keep the machine in “pink of condition.”

DAILY OPERATIONS

Wipe off the dust from the machine frame—the front, back, vise frame, underneath the pot, top of magazine, etc., using a rag and brush. With bellows or air hose, blow the dust out of the assembling elevator, keyboard, main drive cams, and all other places not reached with a brush, excepting the metal pot.

Clean the mold disk. Use a brass rule and rag. Remove all metal from the face and back of the mold, scraping the metal loose with the brass rule and wiping with a rag. Remove all metal from behind the mold disk.

Wipe off the mouthpiece with a rag, and scratch out the cross vents with a sharpened brass rule if they are filled or corroded.

Lubricate the locking studs. Put a small amount of graphite and cup grease mixture on the mold-disk locking studs.

Inspect the mold wipers. Examine the front and back mold wipers; see that they are in working condition. A small amount of graphite and cup grease mixture should be applied to the back mold wiper. For the front mold wiper, wet the pieces of felt in gasoline and then apply graphite until well saturated.

Inspect the knife wiper. See that it works freely up and down. Straighten or replace flag, if needed.

Inspect the pump stop lever. See that it is working.

Inspect the vise-automatic dog. See that the vise-automatic dog and the stop rod are free from metal and that they move without interference.

Apply graphite. With a very small amount of graphite on a magazine brush, rub the following:

1. Line delivery channel.

2. First elevator jaws.

3. Front side of the intermediate bar in the elevator slide top
guide.

4. Slideway of the delivery.

5. Transfer-slide slideway.

6. Distributor-shifter slideway.

7. Top and front edge of the second elevator bar plate.

8. Second elevator upper guide.

9. Back and side of the second elevator lower guide.

Clean the plunger and metal pot. Clean the plunger in the cleaning box. Use a well-brush in the well. Open the holes on the side of the well, using the hook of the pot mouth-wiper. Skim the dross from the pot.

Clean the spacebands on a smooth board, using graphite. See that no metal adheres to the spaceband sleeve, and that the dark spot on the sleeve is removed.

Repair damaged matrices and spacebands.

* * * * *

WEEKLY OPERATIONS

Clean the distributor screws. Also clean the bearings of all surplus oil.

Clean the surface of the main driving cams thoroughly.

Test the vise-automatic. See that the vise-automatic stops the machine if the first elevator does not descend the full distance.

Oil the machine. Put oil in all oil holes, using it sparingly in the places where there is not much wear. Parts subjected to heat should have plenty of oil. Wipe off all overflow oil with a rag while oiling. A drop or two in oil holes is sufficient for most of the holes. The late model machines will have grease cups instead of oil cups. If there is plenty of grease in the cup, give it a turn. Put a small amount of dry graphite in the various slideways.

Note—While oiling give the machine a good general inspection. Watch for any loose parts or loose screws.

Test assembler measures.

Examine star wheel. Replace if necessary.

Polish magazines.

Measure thickness and height of slugs.

* * * * *

MONTHLY OPERATIONS

Clean the magazine and matrices.

Take out all matrices which have the lugs sheared or damaged too much for good use.

Take a matrix proof. This is done by running out all the matrices of each character and casting them on a slug. Then take a proof.

Remove the main driving clutch, and clean the inner surface of the pulley and the leather buffers on the clutch shoes.

Clean the surface of the keyboard rollers with soap and water. Sandpaper them if needed.

Examine gas burners. Clean if necessary.

Clean assembler plate and slide.

Clean distributor box.

Clean and dress commutator.

Clean magnetic thermometer contact points on electric pots.

MECHANICAL TERMS

Adjusting Screw—A screw for taking up wear, or for shifting the position of some movable piece.

Bushing—(1) A lining, usually of metal, for a hole. (2) A tube for insertion into an opening to reduce the effective diameter.

Cam—A non-circular or eccentric rotating piece, often of irregular outline and giving motion that is irregular in direction, rate, or time.

Clutch—A power-transmitting device operating by friction or interlocking, for securing or breaking rotative continuity, as between two shafts or a pulley and a shaft.

Collar—An annular enlargement of a shaft or axle, usually at or near the end.

Cotter Pin—A split pin for insertion in the slot of a bolt to prevent it being drawn.

Detent—A stop or checking device, as a pin, lever, etc.

Dowel—A pin or peg, usually cylindrical, for joining together two adjacent parts.

Escapement—A mechanical device used for securing a uniform movement.

Gear—Any set of appliances as of cog wheels, serving to transmit motion.

Gib—A wedge-shaped or other piece of metal that holds another in place or presses two pieces together.

Link—Any intermediate rod or piece for transmitting force or motion, especially a short connecting rod with a bearing at each end.

Pawl—A hinged or pivoted piece, having a point, edge, or hook made to engage with ratchet teeth, as for driving a rachet-wheel, or preventing reverse motion; a click, detent, or ratchet.

Pinion—A toothed wheel driving or driven by a large cog wheel.

Segment—A geared wheel, cam, or pulley, the outline or efficient working surface of which is a section of the whole circle.

Slide—A sliding part of a machine or implement.

Slideway—A lengthwise bearing on which a piece may slide.

Stud—(1) A pin having a large round head. (2) A short bolt having a shoulder.

Turnbuckle—A form of coupling so threaded or swiveled that when connecting lengthwise two metal rods, it may be turned so as to regulate the length or tension of the connected parts.

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW

Do not forget to form a regular schedule for the care of the machine.

Model 5 magazines are interchangeable with models 4, 8, 14, 18, 19, and 14-s-k.

When using any font over 14-point it is necessary to have the machine equipped with headletter or special advertising figure attachment.

Advertising figures can only be cast on machines that have the universal knife block.

For two-line advertising figures, use 14-point figures with 6-point type; 18-point figures with 8-point type; 24-point figures with 10-point type.

To pull out mold slide on machine equipped with universal mold slide, disconnect the link from the lever.

Do not open the vise when the mold slide is forward on the locking studs.

Hair lines are usually caused by a collection of metal on the spacebands, breaking the walls of the matrix.

Removing metal from the first elevator with a screwdriver will damage the elevator.

Heating metal on the mold or disk with a burner will ruin the mold or disk.

Without disconnecting the connecting link the vise can not be lowered to the second position unless the first elevator is resting on the vise cap. When lowering, pull out on the slide to prevent breaking the eyebolt.

Eleven-point is the largest font that can be used in the model “K.”

Oil on the buffers will cause the main friction clutch to slip.

The assembler slide brake pawl is for the purpose of loosening a tight line so as to remove a matrix from the assembling elevator, not to put in one more.

When metal gets into the mold cap screw in the mold disk after a squirt, do not hammer the metal with a screwdriver. To do so merely drives the metal tighter in the threads of the screw hole. Gouge the metal out with a knife a little at a time.

Most machine troubles are caused by dirt. Keep the machine clean.

Do not change adjustments every time something goes wrong. Be sure you _know_ what is wrong before attempting to fix a trouble. Trace all troubles to their source before attempting a remedy.

One important point that should be watched is that in oiling any part of the machine which comes in contact with the matrices, no oil should be allowed to accumulate where it is liable to find its way on to the matrices.

Clean the machine whenever necessary—otherwise let it alone. Be sure that any new inventions of your own are good before applying them. Do not take off parts unnecessarily. The less you dismantle a machine, the more success you will have with it. But keep it clean.

A large number of matrices and spacebands are lost by being swept up with the metal around the machine, and thrown in the remelting furnace. Matrices should always be picked up when dropped. A good plan is to have the person who sweeps up the metal to throw it in a special pile. It is very easy then for someone to look through the pile carefully, under good light, and find the matrices and spacebands that have been overlooked while sweeping. Matrices which have gone through a remelting furnace are usually no good for further use.

Small job fonts can be used conveniently and economically on any class of job work where only a few lines of display are required or in recasting for duplicate forms. These small job fonts may be carried in special trays and they can be procured either to run pi or run in the regular or auxiliary magazine.

Brass hair spaces, very thin spaces, grading in .001 of an inch from .007 to .024 can be obtained. These spaces do not run in the magazine, but drop in the tray under the second elevator transfer. They are very handy for closely-spaced lines or for lines where it is desired to letterspace.

The machine may be driven from any shaft having a uniform speed of rotation or by individual motor. A machine requires one-fourth horse power but a motor slightly in excess of this should be used. These motors can be belt driven or connected directly to the machine by gear. The speed of the machine should be uniform at all times, for fluctuations will interfere with the operation and tend to reduce the output and cause machine troubles.

To ascertain the size of the pulley required on the driving shaft, multiply the diameter of the main driving pulley on the machine (14½”) by the number of revolutions desired and divide the product by the revolutions of the driving (or motor) shaft. The quotient will be the diameter of the pulley required.

MICROMETER CALIPER

The chief mechanical principle embodied in the construction of a micrometer is that of a screw free to move in a fixed nut. The spindle of the micrometer is attached to the thimble at the top point, and extends downward through the inside of the sleeve; the thimble extending downward on the outside of the sleeve. The part of the spindle, which is concealed within the sleeve and thimble, is threaded to fit a nut in the frame of the micrometer. The pitch of the screw threads on the concealed part of the spindle are 40 to the inch. Therefore one complete revolution of the spindle draws it back 1/40, or .025, of an inch.

The sleeve is marked with 40 lines to the inch, corresponding to the number of threads on the spindle. When the spindle is down against the anvil, the beveled edge of the thimble coincides with the lone 0 on the sleeve, and the 0 line on the thimble coincides with the horizontal line on the sleeve. By turning the knurled thimble with the thumb and finger until the 0 line on the thimble again agrees with the horizontal line on the sleeve, the distance between the anvil and the bottom point of the spindle will be 1/40, or .025 of an inch, and the beveled edge of the thimble will coincide with the second vertical line on the sleeve. Each vertical line on the sleeve indicates a distance of 1/40, or .025 of an inch. Every fourth line on the sleeve is made longer than the others, and is numbered 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., up to 0 or the capacity of the micrometer. Each numbered line indicates a distance of four times 1/40 of an inch, or 1/10.

The beveled edge of the thimble is marked in twenty-five divisions, and every fifth line is numbered from 0 to 25. Turning the spindle from one of these marks to the next indicates that the spindle has been moved 1/25 of .025, or one-thousandth of an inch.

Hold the frame stationary and revolve the thimble with the thumb and finger. The spindle, being attached to the thimble, revolves with it, and moves through the nut in the frame, approaching or receding from the anvil. The measurement of the opening between the anvil and the spindle is shown by the lines and figures on the sleeve and the thimble.

To read the micrometer, place the object to be measured on the anvil, turning the thimble up or down until it touches the object lightly. Multiply the amount of vertical divisions visible on the sleeve by 25 and add the number of divisions on the bevel of the thimble from 0 to the line which coincides with the horizontal line on the sleeve.

For example, if there are 5 divisions visible on the sleeve and six lines showing on the thimble, multiply 5 by 25, and add 6. Total .131 of an inch.

THE POINT SYSTEM

Some time prior to the year 1450 Gutenberg invented the casting of metal type in molds. As the art of printing advanced, many new sizes were cast, but no attempt was made to cast them with a uniform gradation in size and it was difficult to build up one size of body to equal another; that is, justify them.

To obviate this, Fournier, in 1737, advocated a method of casting type according to some unit. The size known as pica was in use in various countries in Europe, and was considered a standard size. Taking the pica as a basis he divided it into twelve parts, each of which he called a point. He chose one-twelfth of a pica as the unit because there existed five sizes of type between pica and nonpareil. As nonpareil was just half the size of pica, this made the succession of sizes seven, eight, nine, ten, and eleven points, any of which could be justified with another by the use of material made to the same unit.

The United States Typefounders’ Association finally adopted it in 1887. It is the only system in use in first-class offices today.

It is popularly supposed that six picas equal one inch. This is approximately so, but not absolutely, for six picas measure but .99648 of an inch. The American pica runs about three points less than 72 lines to the foot. Its actual measurement is .16608 of an inch. One-twelfth of this, or one point, is, therefore .01384 of an inch.

When calculating the amount of type contained in any piece of composed matter, it is measured up in ems, and this em, or unit, is the em of the body.

The square of each size of type is called the em of that body. Thus, the em of six-point is six points square; the em of eight-point is eight points square; and so on.

EMS TO RUNNING INCH

In estimating the amount of matter set, the following table of
type measurement will be found useful. It shows the number of ems
in a running inch, in columns from 10 to 30 picas wide, in seven
different sizes of type. The figures across the top denote the
width of page or column in picas, and the figures below denote the
number of ems to the column inch in the various sizes designated in
the column to the left.

WIDTH OF COLUMNS IN PICAS

========+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====
| 10| 11| 12| 13| 14| 15| 16| 17| 18| 19| 20
--------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----
6 point| 240| 264| 288| 312| 336| 360| 384| 408| 432| 456| 480
7 point| 177| 194| 212| 229| 247| 265| 282| 300| 318| 335| 353
8 point| 135| 148| 162| 175| 189| 202| 216| 229| 243| 256| 270
9 point| 107| 117| 128| 139| 149| 160| 171| 181| 192| 203| 213
10 point| 86| 95| 104| 112| 121| 129| 138| 147| 155| 164| 173
11 point| 71| 79| 86| 93| 100| 107| 114| 121| 128| 136| 143
12 point| 60| 66| 72| 78| 84| 90| 96| 102| 108| 114| 120
========+=====+====+====+===+====+====+====+====+====+====+====

========+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====
| 21| 22| 23| 24| 25| 26| 27| 28| 29| 30
--------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----
6 point| 504| 528| 552| 576| 600| 624| 648| 672| 696| 720
7 point| 371| 388| 406| 424| 441| 459| 477| 494| 512| 529
8 point| 283| 297| 310| 324| 337| 351| 364| 378| 391| 405
9 point| 224| 235| 246| 256| 267| 277| 288| 299| 309| 320
10 point| 181| 190| 199| 207| 216| 225| 233| 242| 250| 259
11 point| 150| 157| 164| 171| 178| 185| 192| 200| 207| 214
12 point| 126| 132| 138| 144| 150| 156| 162| 168| 174| 180
========+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====+====
#/

TEST QUESTIONS

LIST NO. I

1. Describe the keyboard and magazine escapement action on models 5
and 8.

2. How is the rubber roll taken out and cleaned? Why does the
rubber roll shaft have a friction drive?

3. How are the keyboard cam frames taken off?

4. How are the keyboard cams cleaned and oiled?

5. Describe how to take a keyboard off and clean it? Explain in
detail.

6. How is a single cam taken out on an old style keyboard cam yoke
frame?

7. How is a single cam taken out on the new style keyboard cam yoke
frame?

8. What should be done to the triggers before replacing the cam
frame? Explain why.

9. State the causes of more than one matrix dropping, or “running
away.”

10. What are the causes of matrices failing to respond to the touch
of the keys?

LIST NO. II

11. How is a verge on a Model 5 removed and a new one put in? On a
Model 8?

12. What operations are gone through to change a magazine on a
Model 5? A Model 8? Give them in the proper order. How to change the
middle magazine on a Model 8?

13. How is the matrix belt adjusted? What is the difference between
the matrix delivery belts on the different models?

14. What adjustments should be made on the assembling elevator, the
assembler slide brake and the chute spring?

15. What is the purpose of the assembler star wheel friction? What
must be done to keep it working properly?

16. What gives the line-delivery slide its motion when delivering a
line? What controls the speed and how is it adjusted?

17. What releases the line-delivery slide? How is it adjusted?

18. What returns the line-delivery slide to normal position? How is
it adjusted on both old and new styles?

19. How is the line-delivery slide adjusted when delivering a line?

20. What is meant by “cleaning spacebands,” and how should they be
cleaned?

LIST NO. III

21. Explain how a spaceband is constructed? How should a spaceband
be placed in a line. Why?

22. How is the spaceband box removed? Explain in detail.

23. What will cause spacebands not to respond?

24. How do the spaceband box pawls get their motion to release the
spacebands? Explain in detail.

25. How are the spaceband box pawls adjusted?

26. What prevents the release of two spacebands at one time? How is
it adjusted?

27. Describe how the thermostat controls the temperature of the
metal, and how it is adjusted.

28. Describe how the metal is heated in an electric pot. How is the
heat controlled in the various heating units of an electric pot?

29. What care does the electric pot and controller require?

30. What care does the mold require? How would you replace the mold
in the disk after having it off?

LIST NO. IV

31. At what temperature should the metal be kept?

32. What happens when too much metal is in the pot?

33. What does a slug show when the metal is too hot?

34. What does the slug show when the metal is too cold?

35. What does a smooth, bright bottom on a slug indicate?

36. What are some of the causes of a defective face?

37. How should the mouthpiece be cared for?

38. How is the mouthpiece removed on the wedge style crucible?
Screw style models?

39. How is a “stuck” plunger taken out and cleaned?

40. How is the metal pot adjusted? Give all adjustments.

LIST NO. V

41. Explain the gas pressure controller.

42. Explain thoroughly the care of the gas burner.

43. What will cause matrix ears to bend in the distributor box?

44. How is the distributor box lift adjusted?

45. What causes matrices to clog in the distributor box and how are
they removed?

46. What will cause two matrices to lift at one time in the
distributor box?

47. What will cause matrices to fall in the wrong channel of the
magazine, and what is the remedy?

48. Describe the mechanism which drives the distributor screws?

49. Explain the construction and action of the distributor spiral
automatic.

50. How is the first elevator adjusted? Give all the adjustments.

LIST NO. VI

51. How is the first elevator connecting link constructed? How is
it adjusted, and what is the object of the adjustment?

52. What is the purpose of the pump stop? Explain the action and
adjustment of the pump stop.

53. What is the purpose of the first elevator line stop? How is
it replaced and adjusted?

54. Explain the construction of the first elevator two-letter jaws,
and how it sometimes prevents the elevator going high enough to
allow the line to transfer after having a squirt.

55. How should the metal be removed from the first elevator jaw
after having a squirt?

56. What part of the first elevator should be kept perfectly clean
and free from oil?

57. What action has the recasting block on the first elevator?

58. Describe how a one-letter line is recast.

59. Describe how a two-letter line is recast.

60. What trouble would be caused by the first elevator slide not
being adjusted to properly align with the transfer and delivery
channels?

LIST NO. VII

61. What adjustments are there for the second elevator?

62. What would cause the second elevator to be held at the
distributor?

63. When the second elevator does not descend, what causes the
machine to stop?

64. Give the adjustments of the elevator transfer slide.

65. What is the releasing lever for in the first elevator slide
guide, and how is it adjusted?

66. What is the object of the intermediate bar pawl?

67. How may the movement of the transfer and spaceband levers be
interfered with?

68. How does locking the spaceband transfer lever stop the machine?

69. How does the spaceband transfer lever get its motion and how is
it adjusted?

70. When does the automatic safety pawl act?

LIST NO. VIII

71. Describe the method and order that should be followed in making
a complete change of the machine from one size to another.