Chapter XI: Part III: Home Pursuits and Domestic Arts (2)

As a general rule, never water plants while the sun shines. The time should be in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in which case transplanted plants, and others in a growing state, may be watered at any time; and, if they are shaded from the sun, they may also be watered over the tops.

The water, if taken from a well or cold spring, should be exposed one day to the sun, otherwise it will chill the plants. A small quantity only should be applied at a time, that it may have the effect of refreshing rain.

Rain water is the best for plants; next river water; hard spring water is the worst.

720. _To air Plants, and ventilate Rooms wherein they are contained._--Plants should have air, every day in the year, to make them grow well; but this matter, in sitting-rooms, will not of course be regulated for their sakes, especially in the colder seasons. Wherever placed, however, some attention should be paid to airing and ventilating the rooms regularly, by opening the windows, and occasionally the doors, in order to excite a free circulation of air. This should be done to a certain extent every day, according to the state of the weather, except in the time of severe frost, when it would not be advisable to admit external air. But at such times, if bad weather be of long continuance, the rooms may be ventilated by means of the doors, and by exciting a current of air in the passages, or other parts of the house.

In very severe frost, or in a continuation of damp weather, moderate fires should be made for the sake of the plants, if placed in rooms not occupied. The window shutters should also be closed at night.

721. _Hints to Lovers of Flowers._--A most beautiful and easily-attained show of evergreens may be had by a very simple plan, which has been found to answer remarkably well on a small scale. If geranium branches taken from luxuriant and healthy trees, just before the winter sets in, be cut as for slips, and immersed in soap-water, they will, after drooping for a few days, shed their leaves, put forth fresh ones; and continue in the finest vigor all the winter. By placing a number of bottles thus filled in a flower-basket, with moss to conceal the bottles, a show of evergreens is easily insured for the whole season. They require no fresh water.

722. _Bulbous Roots._--The time to put bulbous roots, as the hyacinth, narcissus, and jonquil, into glasses filled with water, is from September to November, and the earliest will begin blooming about Christmas. The glasses should be blue, as that color best suits the roots; put in water enough to cover the bulb one third; let the water be soft, change it once a week, and put in a pinch of salt at each change. Keep the glasses in a moderately warm place, and near to the light.

They should have fresh water about once in ten days. The leaves should not be plucked off before they decay, or the root will be deprived of much of its natural nourishment. When they have decayed, the bulbs should be taken up, laid in the shade to dry, cleaned, and kept in sand in a dry place till wanted to replant. The offsets should be taken off, and planted according to size.

723. _Geraniums._--The shrubby kinds are commonly increased by cuttings, which, if planted in June or July, and placed in the shade, will take root in five weeks. They are the most tender, and when placed out of doors, should be defended from strong winds, and be so placed as to enjoy the sun till eleven o'clock in the morning. As the shrubby kinds grow fast, so as to fill the pots with their roots, and push them through the opening at the bottom, they should be moved every two or three weeks in summer, and the fresh roots cut off. They should also be newly potted twice in the summer: once about a month after they are placed abroad, and again towards the end of August. When this is done, all the roots outside the earth should be pared off, and as much of the old earth removed as can be done without injuring the plants. They should then be planted in a larger pot; some fresh earth should first be laid at the bottom, and on that the plant should be placed, so that the old earth adhering to it may be about an inch below the rim of the pot; it should next be filled up, and the pot slightly shaken: the earth must then be gently pressed down at the top, leaving a little space for water to be given without running over the rim; finally, the plant should be liberally watered, and the stem fastened to a stake, to prevent the wind displacing the roots before they are newly fixed.

As the branches grow, and new leaves are formed at the top of them, the lower ones may die, and should be plucked off every week.

Geranium slips should be planted in May, June, or July, taking only the last year's shoots, from which the leaves must be stripped. When planted, give them water, and place them in the shade: when they have taken root, let them have the sun in the morning. The slips chosen for cutting should not be such as bear flowers; and they should be inserted about half their length in the earth.

Geraniums, except the shrubby kinds, require shelter from frost only, and should have free air admitted to them, when the weather is not very severe. In sultry weather, they should all be watered liberally every morning, except some few of a succulent nature, which must be watered sparingly; the latter may be known by plucking a leaf from them. Geraniums may be watered three times a week, when not frosty, in winter.

724. _Artificial Mould for Plants._--Russian potash, one drachm; water, four ounces; one tea-spoonful of oil. Mix the whole well together. Seeds put in this mixture will grow for a time at least, as well as if planted in common soil.

725. _To take Impressions of Plants._--Take half a sheet of fine paper, and cover the surface with sweet oil; let it stand a minute or two, then rub off the superficial oil, and hang the paper in the air; when almost dry, move the paper slowly over the flame of a candle or lamp, till it is perfectly black; lay on it the plant or leaf, place a piece of clean paper over, and rub it equally with the fingers for half a minute. Then place the plant on the paper or scrap-book where it is desired to have the impression, cover it with blotting paper, and, on repeating the rubbing, a representation of the plant will appear equal to the finest engraving. The same piece of black paper will serve for a number of impressions.

726. _Another Process._--Burn a common cork till reduced to powder; mix with it a tea-spoonful of olive oil, making a thick paste. Paint the veiny side of the leaf with a camel-hair brush, and lay it, with the painted side down, on a piece of clean paper. Submit it to a strong and even pressure (it is best placed in a book and put under a weight,) for about fifteen minutes; remove the leaf carefully, and there will be an exact representation left. Very veiny leaves are best. These impressions are almost equal to engravings. Collections of them might be made interesting, by having narratives of rambles written under them, stating the features of the spot from which the leaves were gathered.

DIRECTIONS FOR WINDOW-PLANTS.

727. _Through January and February._--The summer flowering-plants--such as geraniums, fuchsias, &c.--should be kept as nearly dormant as possible, allowing just enough water to prevent flagging, and all the light that can be spared from the more interesting division of winter-bloomers; of the latter class, such things as china-roses, cinerarias, hyacinths and other bulbs, will now be in an active state, some of them flowering, and others about to do so; these must be liberally treated with water. Mignonnette, however, must be excepted. Above everything, keep the leaves clean; they are few in number, and feeble in action, but they have yet an important function to perform; and, without they are kept as healthy as possible, the plant cannot begin a new growth with the vigor it is desirable it should possess. The pots should be occasionally scrubbed with clean water, but do not paint or otherwise fill up their pores, for air is as essential to the roots as to the foliage, and no inconsiderable quantity finds its way to them through the sides of a clean pot. With the same view, the surface of the soil should be frequently stirred; the process keeps it open, prevents the growth of moss and weeds, and imparts a better appearance. The water given should always be rather warmer than the atmosphere of the room; and rain-water, slightly heated, is the best.

728. _March._--The whole of these plants will be benefited by re-potting. Geraniums and fuchsias delight in light rich earth; calceolarias (lady's slipper), roses, the chimney campanula, and others which grow as freely, should have a larger proportion of loam; whatever manure is added for either, must be thoroughly decayed. The pots should be perfectly clean, inside and out; take care to have each properly drained with pieces of slate or potsherds, in size and number proportionate to the pot; the larger ones require from one to three inches of this drainage. In removing the plants, take off the matted fibres with a knife; loosen the soil moderately, and, when in its place, press the new earth tightly round it; give a gentle watering, and keep them rather warm for a few days; afterwards they should have plenty of air on fine days, and water as they become dry. Station each where it may receive the direct light, and pay particular attention to keeping the leaves clean.

729. _April._--On the attention given through this month, most of the success for the season will depend. The plants are now, or ought to be, in a very active growth, which must be encouraged by moderate and regular supplies of water and air. Pinch out the points of the growing shoots of such plants as are required to become bushy; this is commonly called "stopping," and, with such things as geraniums, fuchsias, myrtles, and others of similar habit, is very necessary. Cactuses must have a sunny position, and plenty of water. Mignonette in pots and boxes, will require thinning, so as to leave the plants about three inches apart. The several kinds of China roses form beautiful window ornaments, and occasion but little trouble: at this time they are coming rapidly into bloom. Look for and destroy insects of all sorts, every few days; they multiply so fast, that without constant attention, the plants are soon overrun. The leaves must be kept clear of dust, and the branches properly tied out to sticks, that the centre may receive its due share of light.

730. _May._--As the influence of the advancing season and power of the sun begins to be felt, the management of window-plants becomes easier, and must be gradually changed from the careful nursing hitherto necessary, to a course of almost constant exposure that will render the plants robust and hardy.

731. _June._--From this time till the middle of September, plants in pots may be placed out of doors; they are, in fact, better in the open air, than in the heated atmosphere of a room. Except in stormy seasons, they may stand out night and day, in some slightly-sheltered spot. As a precaution against the effects of strong sun-light, it is advisable to place the pots in which the plants grow, into others a size or two larger, and fill the space between them with moss; for many plants, having slender fibrous roots, are easily injured by the heat of the sun scorching them through the pot. Such as stand upon the ground, should have a thick layer of ashes spread for them, to prevent worms from creeping in. Wash their leaves frequently with clean water, and remove insects. When any portion of the collection is kept in-doors, a window facing the north or west is to be preferred, and plenty of air must be admitted. As soon as geraniums have done flowering, they should be cut down, re-potted, and the tops struck, to form plants for next year. This is a good time to propagate nearly all kinds of pot-plants; most of them strike with freedom on a warm border in sandy soil, covered with a glass, and kept moderately watered. Myrtles, and some other hard-wooded plants, may be struck by placing the cuttings, for about half their length, into a phial filled with water. Seeds must be sown in light earth, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe.

732. _July._--Fuchsias, in a growing state, should receive a final potting: place them in large, perfectly clean pots, using a mixture of turfy loam and peat, or leaf mould; train the shoots, and water liberally. Geraniums that have done flowering, should also be re-potted; they require a lighter soil, such as one part turfy loam, two parts leaf mould, and the remainder sand: cut down the tops to within two or three joints of their base, and set the plants in a warm sheltered place, to induce them to grow again: the cuttings may be struck in a frame or hand-glass, and will form nice plants by next season. Cactuses should be kept in a sunny situation, and have plenty of water. Camellias which have made their season's growth, may be set out of doors, to ripen. China roses may be re-potted, if requisite, and are easily propagated now, in the same manner as geraniums. Separate and pot violets, for early spring-flowering; keep them and similar plants, as the cyclamen, &c., in the most shaded place out of doors. The whole tribe of lilies are handsome window-plants, and some of the dwarf Japan kinds peculiarly adapted for the purpose; they are just beginning to bloom, and should have plenty of air and water. The Chinese primrose may be sown in pots of light rich earth, and, if covered with a piece of glass, will vegetate quickly, and form nice plants by the autumn. Propagation of such plants as myrtles, sweet-scented verbena, or lemon plant, chimney campanulas, &c., is now easy, and should be attended to without loss of time. Water all the plants with regularity, and in quantities proportionate to their size and the state of the weather; but particularly keep the leaves clean, by frequent sprinklings of clean water and sponging. The essential points in the culture of every plant, is to allow the functions of both roots and leaves to be carried on in a proper manner--the first, by placing them in suitable soil, and the latter, by clearing them of all impurities.

733. _August._--Needs only a continuance of the attention recommended last month. Let them have plenty of air, light, and water, with a slight protection from the mid-day sun; propagation may still be carried on successfully. Pot the bella-donna and Guernsey lilies, to flower in autumn; and the young plants of the Chinese primrose should be placed three or four together, in pots of light rich earth, and nursed, to forward their growth as far as possible.

734. _September._--The geraniums cut down in July, will now be pushing forth a number of young shoots; these must be encouraged as much as possible, by keeping the plants in a sheltered place, and duly supplying them with moisture. When the shoots have grown two or three joints, they should be stopped by picking out the points, in order to render them bushy. The cuttings made at the same period will now be fit for potting; put each one separately into a small pot, and treat them as the older plants. Young plants of myrtles, and indeed all others that are properly rooted, should receive similar treatment. Cinerarias are among the most useful of spring-flowering plants, and if a few seedlings can be obtained now, they will make nice plants, with the treatment recommended for geraniums. Cyclamen, Guernsey, or Bella-donna lilies, and Lachenalias should be re-potted; the first and last are very handsome spring-flowering plants, and the lilies are exceedingly beautiful through October and November; all of them are of reasonable price, and well worth adding to the usual stock of window plants. Fill a few pots with fibrous loam, and sprinkle them over with mignonette, nemophila insignis, and intermediate stocks; leave the pots in the open air, and thin the plants to about three or four of the strongest, as soon as they can be handled. Pot off china primroses, putting one plant into each three-inch pot. Encourage the chrysanthemums in pots with alternate applications of manure water, repot the strongest, and allow them all plenty of room, or the leaves are liable to injury. Set all plants as they grow out of flower in the sun, to ripen their wood, but do not let them suffer from drought.

735. _October._--The principal endeavor among this class of plants must now be directed towards getting them into a state of rest; water very cautiously, giving air whenever the weather will permit, and at all times let them enjoy whatever sunshine occurs, and uninterrupted light. Now that the respiring power of the leaves becomes lessened, it is most essential that every particle of dust be carefully removed; the surface of the soil in which they grow should be occasionally stirred, to keep it clean and porous, and even the outside of the pots should be washed, for the same end. If it be necessary to stand the pots in saucers, when the plants are watered, the waste which runs through should be regularly emptied away, as much mischief ensues from allowing the roots to remain in the water.

736. _November._--The directions given last month must be closely observed throughout the remainder of the year. The great object being to keep the majority of the plants in a resting condition, that they may start the more vigorously on the return of genial weather. Winter, or early spring-flowering plants, such as violets, China primroses, cyclamen, and roses, are, however, to be excepted from this rule; they are now in an active state, and must be encouraged accordingly. As soon as hyacinths and other bulbs, placed in pots last month, have become pretty well rooted, they may be brought into the window, and being placed near the light, will grow rapidly; those in glasses should have the water changed once or twice a week. Chrysanthemums in pots require plenty of water while in bloom, and when their beauty declines, the plants should be taken to a warm part of the garden, or placed in a light shed, to complete their maturity.

737. _December._--If the geraniums or other plants taken from the borders in autumn, exhibit signs of rottenness, remove the decaying parts, and dust the wounds with quick-lime or sulphur, keep them comparatively dry and as much exposed to the sun as possible; air is essential whenever it can be admitted. Remember previous directions regarding the employment of pans; they are a most fatal source of disease and death when left with water in them. Water sparingly, keep the leaves clean, and wait patiently. Flowering plants must still form the exception, as mentioned last month.

738. _To manage a Watch._--_First_: Wind your watch as nearly as possible at the same hour every day. _Secondly_: Be careful that your key is in good condition, as there is much danger of injuring the machine when the key is worn or cracked; there are more mainsprings and chains broken through a jerk in winding, than from any other cause, which injury will, sooner or later, be the result, if the key be in bad order. _Thirdly_: As all metals contract by cold, and expand by heat, it must be manifest, that to keep the watch as nearly as possible at one temperature, is a necessary piece of attention. _Fourthly_: Keep the watch as constantly as possible in one position--that is, if it hangs by day, let it hang by night against something soft. _Fifthly_: the hands of a pocket-chronometer or duplex watch, should never be set backwards; in other watches this is a matter of no consequence. _Sixthly_: The glass should never be opened in watches that set and regulate at the back. One or two other directions more, it is of vital importance that you bear in mind. On regulating a watch, should it be fast, move the regulator a trifle towards the slow, and if going slow, do the reverse; you cannot move the regulator too slightly or too gently at a time, and the only inconvenience that can arise is, that you may have to perform the duty more than once. On the contrary, if you move the regulator too much at a time you will be as far, if not farther than ever, from attaining your object; so that you may repeat the movement until quite tired and disappointed--stoutly blaming both watch and watch-maker, while the fault is entirely your own. Again, you cannot be too careful in respect of the nature and condition of your watch-pocket; see that it be made of some material that is soft and pliant--such as wash-leather, which is the best; and, also, that there be no flue or nap that may be torn off when taking the watch out of the pocket. Cleanliness, too, is as needful here as in the key before winding; for if there be dust or dirt in either instance, it will, you may rely upon it, work its way into the watch, as well as wear away the engine turning of the case.