Chapter XVIII: Part VI (3)

1139. _Cure for the Dry Rot in Timber, so as to make it indestructible by Water._--Melt twelve ounces of resin in an iron pot; add three gallons of train oil, and three or four rolls of brimstone; and when the brimstone and resin are melted and become thin, add as much Spanish brown, or red and yellow ochre, or any other color required, first ground fine with the same oil, as will give the whole a shade of the depth preferred; then lay it on with a brush as hot and thin as possible; some time after the first coat is dried, give it a second. This preparation will preserve planks for ages, and keep the weather from driving through brick work.

1140. _Method of trying the Goodness of Timber for Ship-building, used in the Arsenal at Vienna._--One person applies his ear to the centre of one end of the trunk, while another, with a key, hits the other end with a gentle stroke. If the tree be sound and good, the stroke will be distinctly heard at the other end, though the tree should be a hundred feet or more in length.

1141. _To season and render Green Timber immediately fit for use._--After the timber has been cut down from the stock, take off, immediately, both the outer bark and also the inner rind, clean to the wood; cut it up to the different purposes for which it may be wanted, whether scantlings for roofings, joists, planks, deals, or the like. After preparing them for their proper use, steep them in lime-water a few days, or pay them over with a little of the lime, along with the water. The hotter it is used after the lime is slaked, so much the better. Lime-water is made by slaking the lime-shells in water. This will answer equally well for round trees. The author of this method says, he has been, for a great number of years past, used to take down and repair both ancient and modern buildings, in which a good deal of Scots fir had been used, but he never found one inch either rotten or worm-eaten, where it was in the least connected with lime, and kept dry; on the contrary, he found it more hard and firm than when first used.

BUILDING.

1142. _Artificial Stone Floors and Coverings for Houses, as made in some parts of Russia._--The floors and coverings of houses, in some parts of South Russia, are made in the following manner:--For a floor, let the ground be made even, and some stones of any shape be put on, and, with a heavy wooden rammer, force or beat the stones into the ground, continuing to beat the floor till it become quite even, and incapable of receiving any farther impression. Then run lime, immediately after it has been slaked, through a fine sieve, as expeditiously as possible, because exposure to the air weakens the lime. Mix two parts of coarse sand, or washed gravel, (for there must be no earth in it,) with one part of lime-powder, and wet them with bullocks' blood; so little moist, however, as merely to prevent the lime from blowing away in powder; in short, the less moist, the better. Spread it on the floor, and, without a moment's loss of time, let several men be ready, with large beetles, to beat the mixture, which will become more and more moist by the excessive beating requisite. Then put on it some of the dry sand and lime, mixed, and beat it till like a stone. If required to be very fine, take for the next layer finely-sifted lime, with about a tenth part of rye-flour, and a little ox-blood; beat it till it becomes a very stiff mortar, and then smooth it with a trowel. The next day, again smooth it with a trowel; and so continue to do, daily, till it be entirely dry. When it is quite dry and hard, rub it over with fresh ox-blood, taking off all which it will not imbibe. No wet will penetrate this composition, which, however, after some time, is often painted with oil-colors. The whole floor appears as a single stone, and nothing will affect it. The drier it is used, the better, provided that, with much beating, it becomes like a very stiff mortar, and evidently forms a compact body. On flat tops of houses, the beetle, or rammers' ends, must be smaller, to prevent the rebounding of the boards and timber, which would crack the cement; but, when the thickness of a foot is laid on, it will beat more firmly. A thin coating of ox-blood, flour, and lime, being beat in large, strong, wooden troughs, or mortar, till it can be spread with a trowel, may be used without beating it again on the floor or house-top; but it must be very stiff, and used most expeditiously. Even frost will not affect it. With this composition, artificial stone may be made, rammed very hard into strong wooden frames of the required shape; particularly to turn arches for buildings of rammed earth. It is well known, that earth which is not too argillaceous, with only the moisture it has when fresh dug, on being rammed between frames of wood, till the rammer will no longer impress it, makes external walls; but a mass as hard as stone may be made with a little lime added to sand, horse-dung, and ox-blood. The more the lime is beaten, the moister it becomes; and it must contain so much moisture as to become, by beating, a solid mass, adhering in all its parts, and not remain crumbling, that will properly set as mortar. If there be too little moisture at first, it will remain a powder; if there be too much, it will become a soft mortar. Lime is of no use, mixed with clay or vegetable earths; which, if well beaten, are stronger without it.

1143. _To cure Damp Walls._--Boil two quarts of tar, with two ounces of kitchen-grease, for a quarter of an hour, in an iron pot. Add some of this tar to a mixture of slaked lime and powdered glass, which have passed through a flour-sieve, and been completely dried over the fire in an iron pot, in the proportion of two parts of lime and one of glass, till the mixture becomes of the consistence of thin plaster. The cement must be used immediately after being mixed, and therefore it is proper not to mix more of it than will coat one square foot of wall, since it quickly becomes too hard for use; and care must be taken to prevent any moisture from mixing with the cement. For a wall merely damp, a coating one-eighth of an inch thick is sufficient; but if the wall is wet, there must be a second coat. Plaster made of lime, hair, and plaster of Paris, may afterwards be laid on as a cement. The cement above described will unite the parts of Portland stone or marble, so as to make them as durable as they were prior to the fracture.

1144. _To increase the Durability of Tiles for covering Buildings._--The following composition has been found to be of extraordinary durability, as a glazing or varnish for tiles. No sort of weather, even for a considerable length of time, has had any effect upon it. It prevents that absorption of water, by which common tiles are rendered liable to crumble into dust, hinders the shivering of tiles, and gives to red bricks a soft lustre, by which their appearance is much improved.

Over a weak fire heat a bottle of linseed oil, with an ounce of litharge, and a small portion of minium, till such time as a feather, used in stirring it, shall be burnt to the degree of being easily rubbed to powder between the fingers. Then take off the varnish, let it cool, clarify it from any impurities which may have fallen to the bottom, and heat it again. Having, in the mean time, melted from three to four ounces of pitch, mix this with the warm varnish. The specific gravity of the pitch hinders it from mingling thoroughly with the varnish, though it even remain so long upon the fire as to be evaporated to considerable thickness. It is not till the varnish be cooled, nearly to the consistency of common syrup, that this effect takes place in the requisite degree. If it be too thick, let hot varnish be added, to bring it to the proper consistency; if it be too thin, add melted pitch. Next, put in as much brick-dust as the mixture can receive, without being made too thick for convenient use. The finer the brick-dust, and the easier it is to be moved with the point of a pencil, so much the fitter will it be to fill up the chinks and unevenness of the bricks, and, as it were, to incorporate itself with their substance. Prepare the brick-dust in the following manner:--Take a certain number of pieces of good brick, beat them into dust, and sift the dust in a hair-sieve. Then, to improve its fineness, rub it on a stone with water, dry it, and mix it with the varnish in the necessary proportion. If the brick-dust be naturally of too dark a color, a portion of some that is brighter may be added, to make the color clear.

It is to be laid on the tiles in the same manner in which oil-colors in general are put upon the substances on which they are applied. The composition must be heated from time to time, when it is to be used.

1145. _Economical Method of employing Tiles for the Roofs of Houses._--A French architect (M. Castala) has invented a new method of employing tiles for the roofs of houses, so as to save one half of the quantity usually employed for that purpose. The tiles are made of a square instead of an oblong form; and the hook that fastens them is at one of the angles, so that, when fastened to the laths, they hang down _diagonally_, and every tile is covered one-fifth part on two sides by the superior row.

1146. _To improve Chimney Fire-places, and increase the Heat, by a proper attention to the Setting of Stoves, Grates, &c._--The best materials for setting stoves or grates are fire-stone and common bricks and mortar. Both materials are fortunately very cheap. When bricks are used, they should be covered with a thin coating of plaster, which, when it is dry, should be white-washed. The fire-stone should likewise be white-washed when that is used; and every part of the fire-place, which is not exposed to being soiled and made black by the smoke, should be kept as white and clear as possible. As _white_ reflects more heat, as well as more light, than any other color, it ought always to be preferred for the inside of a chimney fire-place; and _black_, which reflects neither light nor heat, should be more avoided.

1147. _To cure Smoky Chimneys._--Put on the top of the chimney a box, in each of whose sides is a door hanging on hinges, and kept open by a thin iron rod running from one to the other, and fastened by a ring in each end to a staple. When there is no wind, these doors are at rest, and each forms an angle of 45 degrees, which is decreased on the windward side in proportion to the force of the wind, and increased in the same ratio on the leeward side. If the wind be very strong, the door opposed to the wind becomes close, while the opposite one is opened as wide as it can be. If the wind strikes the corner of the box, it shuts two doors and opens their opposites. This scheme has been tried with success in a chimney which always filled the room with smoke, but which, since adopted, has never smoked the room at all. The expense is trifling, and the apparatus simple.

1148. _A Preparation to preserve Wood from catching Fire, and to preserve it from Decay._--A member of the Royal Academy at Stockholm says, in the memoirs of that academy, "Having been within these few years to visit the alum mines of Loswers, in the province of Calmar, I took notice of some attempts made to burn the old staves of tubs and pails that had been used for the alum works. For this purpose they were thrown into the furnace, but those pieces of wood which had been penetrated by the alum did not burn, though they remained for a long time in the fire, where they only became red; however, at last they were consumed by the intenseness of the heat, but they emitted no flame."

He concludes, from this experiment, that wood, or timber, for the purpose of building, may be secured against the action of fire, by letting it remain for some time in water, wherein vitriol, alum, or any other salt has been dissolved, which contains no inflammable parts.

To this experiment it may be added, that wood, which has been impregnated with water, wherein vitriol has been dissolved, is very fit for resisting putrefaction, especially if afterwards it is brushed over with tar, or some kind of paint; in order to this, the wood must be rubbed with very warm vitriol water, and afterwards left to dry, before it is painted or tarred. Wood prepared in this manner will for a long time resist the injuries of the air, and be preserved in cellars and other low moist places. It is to be observed, that if a solution of vitriol is poured on such parts of timber where a sort of champignons are formed by moisture, and rubbed off, none will ever grow there again.

By boiling, for some hours, the spokes of wheels in vitriol water, they are not subject to rottenness in the parts where they enter the stocks. After boiling them in this manner, they are dried as perfectly as possible, and then, in the accustomed way, painted with oil color.

1149. _Cheap and excellent Composition for preserving Weather Boarding, Paling, and all other Works liable to be injured by the Weather._--Well burnt lime will soon become slaked by exposure in the open air, or even if confined in a situation not remarkably dry, so as to crumble of itself into powder. This is called air-slaked lime, in contradistinction to that which is slaked in the usual way, by being mixed with water. For the purpose of making the present composition to preserve all sorts of wood-work exposed to the vicissitudes of the weather, take three parts of this air-slaked lime, two of wood-ashes, and one of fine sand; pass them through a fine sieve, and add as much linseed-oil to the composition as will bring it to a proper consistence for working with a painter's brush. As particular care must be taken to mix it perfectly, it should be ground on a stone slab with a proper muller, in the same manner as painters grind their white-lead, &c.; but where these conveniences are not at hand, the ingredients may be mixed in a large pan, and well beat up with a wooden spatula. Two coats of this composition being necessary, the first may be rather thin; but the second should be as thick as it can conveniently be worked. This most excellent composition for preserving wood, when exposed to the injuries of the weather, is highly preferable to the customary method of laying on tar and ochre.

1150. _To make durable Barn-floors._--A durable barn-floor may be made of well-burnt polished brick on edge, placed in the herring-bone form, on a pavement of stone three inches and a half in thickness; or oaken plank two inches and a half in thickness; or even of well-tempered indurated loam, of a proper substance, not less than eight inches, and laid upon dry materials or bottom. Any of them will make a durable barn-floor, provided it is kept free from wet, wagon-wheels, and horses' feet. The best threshing-floor for small farms of 150 acres is made of sound plank. In large farms (say 300 acres and upwards) the threshing machine should supersede the flail.

1151. _The Virtues of Poplar Wood for the Flooring of Granaries._--The Lombard poplar is recommended as a timber adapted for flooring granaries, which is said to prevent the destruction of corn by weevils and insects. Poplar wood will not easily take fire.

1152. _Improved Ventilators for Rooms._--Different methods are adopted for ventilating, or changing the air of rooms.--Thus:

Mr. Tid admitted fresh air into a room by taking out the middle upper sash pane of glass, and fixing in its place a frame box, with a round hole in its middle, about six or seven inches diameter, in which hole is fixed, behind each other, a set of sails, of very thin, broad copper plates, which spread over and cover the circular hole, so as to make the air, which enters the room, and turning round these sails, to spread round in thin sheets sideway, and so not to incommode persons by blowing directly upon them, as it would do if it were not hindered by the sails. This well-known contrivance has generally been employed in public buildings, but is very disagreeable in good rooms; instead, of it, therefore, the late Mr. Whitehurst substituted another, which was, to open a small square or rectangular hole, in the party wall of the room, in the upper part, near the ceiling, at a corner or part distant from the fire; before it he placed a thin piece of metal, or pasteboard, &c., attached to the wall in its lower part, just before the hole, but declining from it upwards, so as to give the air that enters by the hole a direction upwards against the ceiling, along which it sweeps, and disperses itself through the room, without blowing in a current against any person. This method is very useful to cure smoky chimneys, by thus admitting, conveniently, fresh air. A picture, placed before the hole, prevents the sight of it from disfiguring the room.

1153. _Approved Method of removing Bees._--Set the hive where there is only a glimmering light; turn it up; the queen first makes her appearance; once in possession of her, you are master of all the rest; put her into an empty hive, whither she will be followed by the other bees.

1154. _Useful Method of preserving Bees._--Instead of destroying whole swarms in their hives, to get the honey when the hives are full, they clear them out into a fresh hive, while they take the combs out of the old one; and they prevent their perishing in winter by putting a great quantity of honey into a very wide earthen vessel, covering its surface with paper, exactly fitted on, and pricked full of holes with a large pin; this being pressed by the weight of the bees, keeps a fresh supply continually arising. Their most fatal destruction by severe cold they prevent, by taking as many large tubs as they have hives, and knocking out the heads, they set the other end in the ground, laying a bed of dry earth or chopped hay in it, of six inches deep; over this they place the head knocked out, and then make a small wooden trough for the passage of the bees; this is transfixed through a hole cut through each side of the tub, at such a height as to lay on the false bottom, on which is placed the covered dish of honey for the food of the bees, leaving a proper space over this, covered with strong matting; they then fill up the tub with more dry earth, or chopped hay, heaping it up in the form of a cone, to keep out the rain, and wreathing it over with straw on account of the warmth.

1155. _Sir Ashton Lever's method of preserving Birds, Beasts, Fishes, &c._--BEASTS. Large beasts should be carefully skinned, with the horns, skull, jaws, tail, and feet, left entire; the skins may then either be put into a vessel of spirit, or else rubbed well in the inside with the mixture of salt, alum, and pepper, hereafter mentioned, and hung to dry. Small beasts may be put into a cask of rum, or any other spirit.

BIRDS. Large birds may be treated as large beasts, but must not be put in spirits. Small birds may be preserved in the following manner:--Take out the entrails, open a passage to the brain, which should be scooped out through the mouth; introduce into the cavities of the skull, and the whole body, some of the mixture of salt, alum, and pepper, putting some through the gullet and whole length of the neck; then hang the bird in a cool, airy place--first by the feet, that the body may be impregnated by the salts, and afterwards by a thread through the under mandible of the bill, till it appears to be sweet; then hang it in the sun, or near a fire: after it is well dried, clean out what remains loose of the mixture, and fill the cavity of the body with wool, oakum, or any soft substance, and pack it smooth in paper.

FISHES, &C. Large fishes should be opened in the belly, the entrails taken out, and the inside well rubbed with pepper, and stuffed with oakum. Small fishes put in spirit, as well as reptiles and insects, except butterflies and moths; and any insects of fine colors, should be pinned down in a box prepared for that purpose, with their wings expanded.

1156. _Birds that have been Shot._--When fresh-killed, observe to put tow into the mouth, and upon any wound they may have received, to prevent the feathers being soiled; and then wrap it smooth, at full-length, in paper, and pack it close in a box. If it be sent from a great distance, the entrails should be extracted, and the cavity filled with tow dipped in rum or other spirit. The following mixture is proper for the preservation of animals:--One pound of salt, four ounces of alum, and two ounces of pepper, powdered together.

1157. _To preserve Game in Hot Weather._--Game or poultry may be preserved for a long time, by tying a string tight round the neck, so as to exclude the air, and by putting a piece of charcoal into the vent.

1158. _Russian method of preserving Fish._--When the Russians desire to keep fish perfectly fresh, to be carried a long journey in a hot climate, they dip them into hot bees'-wax, which acts like an air-tight covering. In this way they are taken to Malta, even sweet in summer.