Chapter III: Section XXX

Of the principal Baths ib.

NOTES 183

THE

TRAVELS

OF

EVLIYA EFENDÍ.

IN THE NAME OF GOD, THE ALL-CLEMENT, THE ALL-MERCIFUL!

To GOD, who ennobles exalted minds by travels, and has enabled me to visit the holy places; to Him who laid the foundations of the fortresses of legislation, and established them on the groundwork of prophecy and revelation, all praise be given: and may the richest blessings and most excellent benedictions be offered to the most noble and perfect of all creatures, the pattern of prayer, who said, “Pray as you see me pray;” to the infallible guide, Mohammed; because it is in his favour that God, the Lord of empires and Creator of the heavens, made the earth an agreeable residence for the sons of Adam, and created man the most noble of all his creatures. Praise to Him, who directs all events according to His will, without injustice or incongruity! And, after having offered all adoration to God, let every pious aspiration be expressed for the prosperity of his shadow upon earth, the ruler of terrestrial things, the Sultán son of a Sultán, the victorious Prince Murád Khán, fourth son of Sultán Ahmed Khán, and eighth in descent from Sultán Mohammed Khán, the Conqueror, the mercy of God rest upon them all! but most especially on Sultán Murád Gházi, the conqueror of Baghdád, the great Monarch with whose service I was blessed when I began to write an account of my travels.

It was in the time of his illustrious reign, in the year A.H. 1041 (A.D. 1631), that by making excursions on foot in the villages and gardens near Islámbúl (Constantinople), I began to think of extensive travels, and to escape from the power of my father, mother, and brethren. Forming a design of travelling over the whole earth, I entreated God to give me health for my body and faith for my soul; I sought the conversation of dervíshes, and when I had heard a description of the seven climates and of the four quarters of the earth, I became still more anxious to see the world, to visit the Holy Land, Cairo, Damascus, Mecca and Medina, and to prostrate myself on the purified soil of the places where the prophet, the glory of all creatures, was born, and died.

I, a poor, destitute traveller, but a friend of mankind, Evliyà, son of the dervísh Mohammed, being continually engaged in prayer and petitions for divine guidance, meditating upon the holy chapters and mighty verses of the Korán, and looking out for assistance from above, was blessed in the night _’Ashúrá_, in the month of _Moharrem_, while sleeping in my father’s house at Islámbúl, with the following vision: I dreamt that I was in the mosque of Akhí chelebí, near the Yemish iskeleh-sí (fruit-stairs or scale), a mosque built with money lawfully gotten, from which prayers therefore ascend to heaven. The gates were thrown open at once, and the mosque filled with a brilliant crowd who were saying the morning prayers. I was concealed behind the pulpit, and was lost in astonishment on beholding that brilliant assembly. I looked on my neighbour, and said, “May I ask, my lord, who you are, and what is your illustrious name?” He answered, “I am one of the ten evangelists, Sa’d Vakkás, the patron of archers.” I kissed his hands, and asked further: “Who are the refulgent multitude on my right hand?” He said, “They are all blessed saints and pure spirits, the spirits of the followers of the Prophet, the Muhájirín, who followed him in his flight from Mecca, and the Ansárí who assisted him on his arrival at Medína, the companions of Saffah and the martyrs of Kerbelá. On the right of the _mihráb_ (altar) stand Abú Bekr and ’Omar, and on the left ’Osmán and ’Ali; before it stands Veis; and close to the left wall of the mosque, the first Muezzin, Belál the Habeshí. The man who regulates and ranks the whole assembly is Amru. Observe the host in red garments now advancing with a standard; that is the host of martyrs who fell in the holy wars, with the hero Hamzah at their head.” Thus did he point out to me the different companies of that blessed assembly, and each time I looked on one of them, I laid my hand on my breast, and felt my soul refreshed by the sight. “My lord,” said I, “what is the reason of the appearance of this assembly in this mosque?” He answered, “The faithful Tátárs being in great danger at Azák (Azof), we are marching to their assistance. The Prophet himself, with his two grandsons Hasan and Hosaïn, the twelve _Imáms_ and the ten disciples, will immediately come hither to perform the appointed morning service (_sabáh-namáz_). They will give you a sign to perform your duty as _Muezzin_, which you must do accordingly. You must begin to cry out with a loud voice ‘_Allah Ekber_’ (God is great!) and then repeat the verses of the Throne (Súrah II. 259). Belál will repeat the ‘_Subhánullah_’ (Glory to God!), and you must answer ‘_Elhamdu-li-llah_’ (God be praised!) Belál will answer, ‘_Allah ekber_,’ and you must say ‘_Amín_’ (Amen), while we all join in the _tevhíd_ (i.e. declaration of the divine unity). You shall then, after saying ‘Blessed be all the prophets, and praise to God the Lord of both worlds,’ get up, and kiss the hand of the prophet, saying ‘_Yá resúlu-llah_’ (O Apostle of God!).”

When Sa’d Vakkás had given me these instructions, I saw flashes of lightning burst from the door of the mosque, and the whole building was filled with a refulgent crowd of saints and martyrs all standing up at once. It was the prophet overshadowed by his green banner, covered with his green veil, carrying his staff in his right hand, having his sword girt on his thigh, with the Imám Hasan on his right hand, and the Imám Hoseïn on his left. As he placed his right foot on the threshold, he cried out “_Bismillah_,” and throwing off his veil, said, “_Es-selám aleik yá ommetí_” (health unto thee, O my people). The whole assembly answered: “Unto thee be health, O prophet of God, lord of the nations!” The prophet advanced towards the _mihráb_ and offered up a morning prayer of two inflexions (_rik’ah_). I trembled in every limb; but observed, however, the whole of his sacred figure, and found it exactly agreeing with the description given in the _Hallyehi khákání_. The veil on his face was a white shawl, and his turban was formed of a white sash with twelve folds; his mantle was of camel’s hair, in colour inclining to yellow; on his neck he wore a yellow woollen shawl. His boots were yellow, and in his turban was stuck a toothpick. After giving the salutation he looked upon me, and having struck his knees with his right hand, commanded me to stand up and take the lead in the prayer. I began immediately, according to the instruction of Belál, by saying: “The blessing of God be upon our lord Mohammed and his family, and may He grant them peace!” afterwards adding, “_Allah ekber_.” The prophet followed by saying the fátihah (the 1st chap. of the Korán), and some other verses. I then recited that of _the throne_. Belál pronounced the _Subhánu’llah_, I the _El-hamdulillah_, and Belál the _Allah ekber_. The whole service was closed by a general cry of “_Allah_,” which very nearly awoke me from my sleep. After the prophet had repeated some verses, from the _Suráh yás_, and other chapters of the Korán, Sa’d Vakkás took me by the hand and carried me before him, saying: “Thy loving and faithful servant Evliyà entreats thy intercession.” I kissed his hand, pouring forth tears, and instead of crying “_shifá’at_ (intercession),” I said, from my confusion, “_siyáhat_ (travelling) O apostle of God!” The prophet smiled, and said, “_Shifá’at_ and _siyáhat_ (_i.e._ intercession and travelling) be granted to thee, with health and peace!” He then again repeated the _fátihah_, in which he was followed by the whole assembly, and I afterwards went round, kissed the hands, and received the blessings of each. Their hands were perfumed with musk, ambergris, spikenard, sweet-basil, violets, and carnations; but that of the prophet himself smelt of nothing but saffron and roses, felt when touched as if it had no bones, and was as soft as cotton. The hands of the other prophets had the odour of quinces; that of Abú-bekr had the fragrance of melons, ’Omar’s smelt like ambergris, ’Osmán’s like violets, Alí’s like jessamine, Hasán’s like carnations, and Hoseïn’s like white roses. When I had kissed the hands of each, the prophet had again recited the _fátihah_, all his chosen companions had repeated aloud the seven verses of that exordium to the Korán (_saba’u-l mesání_); and the prophet himself had pronounced the parting salutation (_es-selám aleïkom eyyá ikhwánún_) from the _mihráb_; he advanced towards the door, and the whole illustrious assembly giving me various greetings and blessings, went out of the mosque. Sa’d Vakkás at the same time, taking his quiver from his own belt and putting it into mine, said: “Go, be victorious with thy bow and arrow; be in God’s keeping, and receive from me the good tidings that thou shalt visit the tombs of all the prophets and holy men whose hands thou hast now kissed. Thou shalt travel through the whole world, and be a marvel among men. Of the countries through which thou shalt pass, of their castles, strong-holds, wonderful antiquities, products, eatables and drinkables, arts and manufacturers, the extent of their provinces, and the length of the days there, draw up a description, which shall be a monument worthy of thee. Use my arms, and never depart, my son, from the ways of God. Be free from fraud and malice, thankful for bread and salt (hospitality), a faithful friend to the good, but no friend to the bad.” Having finished his sermon, he kissed my hand, and went out of the mosque. When I awoke, I was in great doubt whether what I had seen were a dream or a reality; and I enjoyed for some time the beatific contemplations which filled my soul. Having afterwards performed my ablutions, and offered up the morning prayer (_saláti fejrí_), I crossed over from Constantinople to the suburb of Kásim-páshá, and consulted the interpreter of dreams, Ibráhím Efendí, about my vision. From him I received the comfortable news that I should become a great traveller, and after making my way through the world, by the intercession of the prophet, should close my career by being admitted into Paradise. I next went to Abdu-llah Dedeh, Sheïkh of the convent of Mevleví Dervíshes in the same suburb (Kásim-páshá), and having kissed his hand, related my vision to him. He interpreted it in the same satisfactory manner, and presenting to me seven historical works, and recommending me to follow Sa’d Vakkás’s counsels, dismissed me with prayers for my success. I then retired to my humble abode, applied myself to the study of history, and began a description of my birth-place, Islámbúl, that envy of kings, the celestial haven, and strong-hold of Mákedún (Macedonia, _i.e._ Constantinople).