Chapter XI

The Rainy Season sets in at Bengazi towards the middle of
January, and continues with little interruption till the
beginning of March — Miserable Condition of the Town during
that period — Construction of the Houses — Improvidence of
the Arabs — Dirty state of the Streets — Swarms of insects
which infest them — Position of Bengazi — Description of
its Harbour — Castle of the Bey — Visit to Bey Halīl
— Friendly Reception of our Party by his Excellency —
Occupations and arrangements during the Rainy Season — The
Shekh el Belad Mahommed — Jews of Bengazi — Trade of the
Town — Produce of the Environs — Wretched state of the
Bullock Vessels — Mahometan Inhabitants of Bengazi —
Alarm of the Lower Classes during our residence there —
Confusion resulting from it — Mob collected at our door
on this occasion — Narrow Escape of Mr. Giacomo Rossoni
— Friendly Conduct of our Mahometan Acquaintance — Parley
with the Arabs — Dispersion of the Mob — Prejudices of the
Arabs respecting the Treatment of Diseases — Fatal Effects
of this species of Folly at Bengazi — Prevalent Diseases in
Bengazi and its vicinity — Singular cause of Alarm among a
Party of Arab Shekhs — Arab notions of decorum and propriety
contrasted with those of European Nations — Bengazi supposed
to occupy the Site of Berenice and Hesperis — Existing
Remains there — Little regard manifested by Turks and Arabs
for the relics of Antiquity — Probable Limits of Berenice
— Quarries, and singular Chasms in its Neighbourhood —
Gardens of Hesperides — Position of the Gardens according
to Scylax, Pliny, and Ptolemy — Conjectures of Gosselin and
others respecting them — Circumstances which appear to favour
our position of the Gardens — Lakes and Subterranean Caverns
in the Neighbourhood of Bengazi, (or Berenice) — Concealed
Body of Water observed in one of the latter — Examination
of the Caverns — Remarks of the Bey respecting it — The
Subterranean Stream in question considered as the River Lathon,
or Lethe — Testimonies of the Ancients on this point —
Supposed Communication of the Subterranean Stream with the
Lake adjoining the Harbour of Bengazi — Signification of the
term _Lathon_ alluded to — Further Remarks in confirmation
of our suggested Position of the River, and of its probable
Communication with the Lake above mentioned — Remarks of
Strabo and Cellarius on the subject — Temple of Venus, and
Lake Tritonis of Strabo — Remarks on the name _Berenice_
— Total ignorance of the Arabs of Bengazi with respect to
the former celebrity of their City — Pleasing little Fable
of Kazwini, on the changes which take place in the Nature
and Appearance of Places, and the little knowledge which
remains, after a lapse of time, of their former Condition,
even on the spots where they existed 281