Chapter XVII

Arrival of Captain Smyth at Derna — Our Party set out
from Cyrene to meet him — Remains of Ancient Forts, and
Sarcophagi observed on the Journey — Marks of Chariot-wheels
in the Stony Track indicative of an ancient Road — Barren
Appearance of the Mountains which rise at the back of Derna
— Perilous Descent from their Summit to the Plain below
— Exhausted condition of our Horses in accomplishing it
— Arrive at Derna, where we found the Adventure, and wait
upon Captain Smyth — Description of the town of Derna —
Ravages occasioned by the Plague there — Prompt Measures
of Mahommed Bey in subduing it — Some Account of Mahommed
Bey — Civility and attention received by our Party from
Signor Regignani the British Agent at Derna — Take leave of
Mr. Tindall, who sails on board the Adventure — Departure
from Derna on our road to Apollonia — Gradual increase of
Vegetation observed on the Route — Thickly-wooded Ravines and
dangerous Passes on this Road — Beautiful Stream at Elthroon
— Arrive at El Hilal — Capacious Harbour at that place —
Ancient Remains observed there — Arab Encampment at El Hilal
— Dishonest Conduct of our Chaous — Arrive at Apollonia
— No Water to be found there — Begin to dig a Well in
order to procure some, our stock being wholly exhausted —
Bad Success of this attempt — Continue our Journey to Cyrene
— Miss the Path over the Mountain, and lose our way among
the Thickets and Underwood — Inconvenience of this mistake
to all Parties — Find the right track, and at length reach
the Fountain of Apollo — Rencontre of our Servants with some
female Inhabitants of the Mountain — Singular position of the
Caves which they lived in — Gain intelligence at Cyrene of
a Spring in the neighbourhood of Apollonia — Set out again
for that place — Description of the Road — Architectural
Remains, and beautiful appearance of the Country through
which it passes — Meet with an Hyæna in the dusk of the
evening — The forest much infested by these animals and
Jackalls — Peculiarities of both — Arrive at Apollonia,
and find the Springs described to us — Other Caves in the
Mountain — Unwillingness of their Inhabitants to admit us
— Description of the City of Apollonia 467