Chapter XV: Journey From Merge to Cyrene

Departure from Merge — Deep Marks of Chariot-wheels on
the Stony Road indicative of an ancient Track — Valley of
Bogràta — Ancient Wells observed there — Valley of Hareebe
— Beauty and Luxuriance of the Country continue — Roses
of the Cyrenaica mentioned by Athenæus as celebrated for the
excellence of their Perfume — Oil (or Ointment) of Roses
made at Cyrene in the time of Berenice (probably the Daughter
of Magas) — Difficulty and Danger of some Parts of the Road
— Apprehensions of our Arab Conductors — They appear to
have been groundless — Arrive at Margàd — Bad State of
the Road continues — Quarrel between Abou-Bukra and one of
our Servants — Consequences of the Quarrel — Departure of
Abou-Bukra — Continue our Route alone and succeed in finding
the right Track — Return of Abou-Bukra and his people —
Satisfactory Termination of the Disturbance — Oppressive
Sirocco Wind — Nature of the Country on approaching Cyrene
— First Appearance of a Plant resembling the Daucus, or
Wild Carrot — Resemblance of this Plant to the Silphium,
as expressed on ancient Coins — Points in which it differs
from it — Remarks on the Silphium as mentioned by ancient
Writers — Testimony of Herodotus, Arrian, Theophrastus,
Pliny, Athenæus — Bill of Fare of the Kings of Persia,
stated by Polyænus to have been discovered in the royal
Palace by Alexander the Great — Silphium mentioned in this
among other articles of Food — Description of the Plant
by Theophrastus and Pliny — Celebrity and Scarcity of the
Silphium and of the Extract from it — Extraordinary Cause
of the first Appearance of the Silphium in the Cyrenaica,
as mentioned by Pliny on the authority of Greek Writers —
Effects produced by the Plant on the Sheep and Cattle who
were allowed to eat it — Similar Effects produced by the
Plant observed by the Expedition on Camels — Extraordinary
Medicinal Qualities imputed to the Silphium by Pliny — The
use of it recommended by the Roman Naturalist as a sovereign
remedy for almost everything but the Tooth-ache — Fatal
Consequences recorded by Pliny, of applying it in the Case
last mentioned — Silphium offered by the People of Cyrene
to their first King Battus, as the most valuable Production
of their Country — State in which the Plant observed by the
Expedition most resembles the Silphium on the Coins of Cyrene
— Partition of the Road from Merge to Cyrene — Extensive
Traces of Building observed along the ancient, or lower Road
— Approach to Cyrene indicated by innumerable Sarcophagi
and Tombs — Position of these along the sides of the Roads,
as observable at Pompeii and other ancient Towns — Frequent
Traces of Chariot-wheels still observable along the Roads,
deeply indented in the rocky Soil of the Place — The earlier
Tombs distinguished by their simplicity and good taste —
The later by a more ornamented and less perfect style —
Busts and Statues scattered everywhere about among the Tombs
— Difference of Style and Character observable in these
— Remains of an Aqueduct — Fountain of Cyrene 405

CHAPTER XVI.

Description of the Fountain — Excavations which enclose it
— Sculptured Tablet discovered at the entrance of one of
the Chambers — Early Character of its Style — Beautiful
Bas-Relief in white Marble discovered near the Fountain —
Indications of Porticoes in front of the excavated Chambers
— Greek Inscription cut over one of them — Remains in
front of the Fountain — Aqueduct above it — Peripteral
Temple, probably of Diana — Female Statue discovered there
— Position of Cyrene — Delightful View from the Town
— Excavated Galleries and Tombs — Nature and Style of
the Tombs — Variety displayed in the disposition of their
Interiors — Remains of Painting discovered in them — Suite
of what appear to be Allegorical Compositions, painted on the
Metopes of one of the Doric Tombs — Practice, at Cyrene,
of painting the several Members of Architecture — Remarks
connected with this Practice 424