Chapter II: Part 2

May it please your Lordship therefore to understand, that upon the sixe and twentieth of March _1602_, ♦_March_♦ being Friday, we went from _Falmouth_, being in all, two & thirtie persons, in a small barke of _Dartmouth_, called The _Concord_, holding a course for the North part of Virginia: and although by chance the winde fauoured vs not at first as we wished, but inforced vs so farre to the Southward, as we fell with _S. Marie_, one of the islands of the _Açores_ (which was not much out of our way) yet holding our course directly from thence, we made our iourney shorter (than hitherto accustomed) by the better part of a thousand leagues, yet were wee longer in our passage than we expected; which happened, for that our barke being weake, we were loth to presse her with much saile; also, our sailers being few, and they none of the best, we bare (except in faire weather) but low saile; besides, our going vpon an vnknowen coast, made vs not ouer-bolde to stand in with the shore, but in open weather; which caused vs to be certeine daies in sounding, before we discouered the coast, the weather being by chance, somewhat foggie. ♦_May_♦ But on Friday the foureteenth of May, early in the morning, we made the land, being full of faire trees, the land somewhat low, certeine hummocks or hilles lying into the land, the shore ful of white sand, but very stony or rocky. And standing faire alongst by the shore, about twelue of the clocke the same day, we came to an anker, ♦_Cape Neddock Maine_♦ where sixe Indians, in a Baske-shallop with mast and saile, an iron grapple, and a kettle of copper, came boldly aboord vs, one of them apparelled with a wastcoat and breeches of blacke serdge, made after our sea-fashion, hose and shoes on his feet; all the rest (sauing one that had a paire of breeches of blue cloth) were all naked. These people are of tall stature, broad and grim visage, of a blacke swart complexion, their eie-browes painted white; their weapons are bowes and arrowes: it seemed by some words and signes they made, that some Basks or of _S. Iohn de Luz_, haue fished or traded in this place, being in the latitude of 43 degrees. But riding heere, in no very good harbour, and withall, doubting the weather, about three of the clocke the same day in the afternoone we weighed, & standing Southerly off into sea the rest of that day and the night following, with a fresh gale of winde, in the morning we found ourselues embayed with a mightie headland; but comming to an anker about nine of the clocke the same day, within a league of the shore, ♦_Cape Cod_♦ we hoised out the one halfe of our shallop, and captaine _Bartholomew Gosnold_, my selfe, and three others, went ashore, being a white sandie and very bolde shore; and marching all that afternoon with our muskets on our necks, on the highest hilles which we saw (the weather very hot) at length we perceiued this headland to be parcell of the maine, and sundrie Islands lying almost round about it: so returning (towards euening) to our shallop (for by that time, the other part was brought ashore and set together) we espied an Indian, a yong man, of proper stature, and of a pleasing countenance; and after some familiaritie with him, we left him at the sea side, and returned to our ship, where, in fiue or sixe houres absence, we had pestered our ship so with Cod fish, that we threw numbers of them ouer-boord againe: and surely, I am persuaded that in the moneths of March, April, and May, there is vpon this coast, better fishing, and in as great plentie, as in _Newfoundland_: for the sculles of Mackerell, herrings, Cod, and other fish, that we dayly saw as we went and came from the shore, were wonderfull; and besides, the places where we tooke these Cods (and might in a few daies haue laden our ship) were but in seuen faddome water, and within lesse than a league of the shore; where, in _Newfound-land_ they fish in fortie or fiftie fadome water, and farre off. From this place, we sailed round about this headland, almost all the points of the compasse, the shore very bolde: but as no coast is free from dangers, so I am persuaded, this is as free as any; the land somewhat lowe, full of goodly woods, but in some places plaine: at length we were come amongst many faire Islands, which we had partly discerned at our first landing; ♦_Nantucket_♦ all lying within a league or two one of another, and the outermost not aboue sixe or seuen leagues from the maine: ♦_Martha’s Vineyard_♦ but comming to an anker vnder one of them, which was about three or foure leagues from the maine, captaine _Gosnold_, my selfe, and some others, went ashore, & going round about it, we found it to be foure English miles in compasse, without house or inhabitant, sauing a little old house made of boughes, couered with barke, an olde piece of a weare of the Indians, to catch fish, and one or two places, where they had made fires. The chiefest trees of this Island, are Beeches and Cedars; the outward parts all ouergrowen with lowe bushie trees, three or foure foot in height, which beare some kinde of fruits, as appeared by their blossomes; Strawberies, red and white, as sweet and much bigger than ours in _England_, Rasberies, Gooseberies, Hurtleberies, and such; an incredible store of Vines, as well in the wooddie part of the Island, where they run upon euery tree, as on the outward parts, that we could not goe for treading vpon them: also, many springs of excellent sweet water, and a great standing lake of fresh water, neere the sea side, an English mile in compasse, which is mainteined with the springs running exceeding pleasantly thorow the wooddie grounds which are very rockie. Here are also in this Island, great store of Deere, which we saw, and other beasts, as appeared by their tracks; as also diuers fowles, as Cranes, Hernshawes, Bitters, Geese, Mallards, Teales, and other fowles, in great plenty; also, great store of Pease, which grow in certeine plots all the Island ouer. On the North side of this Island we found many huge bones and ribbes of Whales. This Island, as also all the rest of these Islands, are full of all sorts of stones fit for building; the sea sides all couered with stones, many of them glistering and shining like minerall stones, and very rockie: also, the rest of these Islands are replenished with these commodities, and vpon some of them, inhabitants; as vpon an Island to the Northward, and within two leagues of this; yet wee found no townes, nor many of their houses, although we saw manie Indians, which are tall big boned men, all naked, sauing they couer their priuy parts with a blacke tewed skin, much like a Black-smithes apron, tied about their middle and betweene their legs behinde: they gaue vs of their fish readie boiled (which they carried in a basket made of twigges, not unlike our osier) whereof we did eat, and iudged them to be fresh water fish: they gaue vs also of their Tabacco, which they drinke greene, but dried into powder, very strong and pleasant, and much better than any I haue tasted in _England_: the necks of their pipes are made of clay hard dried (whereof in that Island is great store both red and white) the other part, is a piece of hollow copper, very finely closed and semented together: we gaue vnto them certeine trifles, as kniues, points, and such like, which they much esteemed. From hence we went to another Island, to the Northwest of this, and within a league or two of the maine, which we found to be greater than before we imagined, being 16 English miles at the least in compasse; ♦_Cuttyhunk_♦ for it conteineth many pieces or necks of land, which differ nothing frō seuerall Islands, sauing that certeine banks of small bredth do like bridges ioyne them to this Island: on the outsides of this Island are many plaine places of grasse, abundance of Strawberies & other berries before mentioned: in mid May we did sowe in this Island (as for a triall) in sundry places, Wheat, Barley, Oats, and Pease, which in foureteene daies were sprung up nine inches and more: the soile is fat and lustie; the vpper crust, of gray colour; but a foot or lesse in depth, of the colour of our hempe-lands in _England_; and being thus apt for these and the like graines; the sowing or setting (after the ground is cleansed) is no greater labour, than if you should set or sowe in one of our best prepared gardens in England. This Island is full of high timberd Oaks, their leaues thrise so broad as ours; Cedars, strait and tall; Beech, Elme, Hollie, Walnut trees in abundance, the fruit as bigge as ours, as appeared by those we found under the trees, which had lien all the yeere vngathered; Haslenut trees, Cherry trees, the leafe, barke and bignesse not differing from ours in _England_, but the stalke beareth the blossomes or fruit at the end thereof, like a cluster of Grapes, forty or fifty in a bunch; Sassafras trees great plentie all the Island ouer, a tree of high price and profit; also, diuers other fruit trees, some of them with strange barks, of an Orange colour, in feeling soft and smoothe like veluet: in the thickest parts of these woods, you may see a furlong or more round about. On the Northwest side of this Island, neere to the sea side, is a standing Lake of fresh water, almost three English miles in compasse, in the middest whereof stands a plot of wooddie ground, an acre in quantitie or not aboue: this Lake is full of small Tortoises, and exceedingly frequented with all sorts of fowles before rehearsed, which breed, some lowe on the banks, and others on lowe trees about this Lake in great abundance, whose yoong ones of all sorts we tooke and eat at our pleasure: but all these fowles are much bigger than ours in _England_. Also, in euery Island, and almost in euery part of euery Island, are great store of Ground nuts, fortie together on a string, some of them as bigge as hennes egges; they grow not two inches vnder ground: the which nuts we found to be as good as Potatoes. Also, diuers sorts of shell-fish, as Scallops, Muscles, Cockles, Lobsters, Crabs, Oisters, and Wilks, exceeding good and very great. But not to cloy you with particular rehearsall of such things as God & Nature hath bestowed on these places, in comparison whereof, the most fertil part of al _England_ is (of it selfe) but barren; we went in our light-horsman frō this Island to the maine, right against this Island some two leagues off, where comming ashore, we stood a while like men rauished at the beautie and delicacie of this sweet soile; ♦_Buzzard’s Bay_♦ for besides diuers cleere Lakes of fresh water (whereof we saw no end) Medowes very large and full of greene grasse; euen the most wooddy places (I speake onely of such as I saw) doe grow so distinct and apart, one tree from another, vpon greene grassie ground, somewhat higher than the Plaines, as if Nature would shew herselfe aboue her power, artificiall. Hard by, we espied seuen Indians; and comming vp to them, at first they expressed some feare; but being emboldned by our courteous vsage, and some trifles which we gaue them, they followed vs to a necke of land, which we imagined had beene seuered from the maine; but finding it otherwise, we perceiued a broad harbour or riuers mouth, which ranne vp into the maine: but because the day was farre spent, we were forced to returne to the Island from whence we came, leauing the discouerie of this harbour, for a time of better leasure: of the goodnesse of which harbour, as also of many others thereabouts, there is small doubt, considering that all the Islands, as also the maine (where we were) is all rockie grounds and broken lands. Now the next day, we determined to fortifie our selues in the little plot of ground in the midst of the Lake aboue mentioned, where we built an house, and couered it with sedge, which grew about this lake in great abundance; in building whereof, we spent three weeks and more: but the second day after our comming from the maine, we espied 9 canowes or boats, with fiftie Indians in them, comming toward vs from this part of the maine, where we, two daies before, landed; and being loth they should discouer our fortification, we went out on the sea side to meet them; and comming somewhat neere them, they all sat downe upon the stones, calling aloud to vs (as we rightly ghessed) to doe the like, a little distance from them: hauing sat a while in this order, captaine _Gosnold_ willed me to go vnto them, to see what countenance they would make; but as soone as I came vp vnto them, one of them, to whom I had giuen a knife two daies before in the maine, knew me (whom I also very wel remembred) and smiling vpon me, spake somewhat vnto their lord or captaine, which sat in the midst of them, who presently rose vp and tooke a large Beauer skin from one that stood about him, and gaue it vnto me, which I requited for that time the best I could: but I pointing towards captaine _Gosnold_, made signes vnto him, that he was our captaine, and desirous to be his friend, and enter league with him, which (as I perceiued) he vnderstood, and made signes of ioy: whereupon captaine _Gosnold_ with the rest of his companie, being twentie in all, came vp vnto them; and after many signes of gratulations (captain _Gosnold_ presenting their L. with certeine trifles which they wondred at, and highly esteemed) we became very great friends, and sent for meat aboord our shallop, and gaue them such meats as we had then readie dressed, whereof they misliked nothing but our mustard, whereat they made many a sowre face. While wee were thus merry, one of them had conueied a target of ours into one of their canowes, which we suffered, onely to trie whether they were in subiection to this L. to whom we made signes (by shewing him another of the same likenesse, and pointing to the canowe) what one of his companie had done: who suddenly expressed some feare, and speaking angerly to one about him (as we perceiued by his countenance) caused it presently to be brought backe againe. So the rest of the day we spent in trading with them for Furres, which are Beauers, Luzernes, Marterns, Otters, Wild-cat skinnes very large and deepe Furre, blacke Foxes, Conie skinnes, of the colour of our Hares, but somewhat lesse, Deere skinnes very large, Seale skinnes, and other beasts skinnes, to vs vnknowen. They haue also great store of Copper, some very redde, and some of a paler colour; none of them but haue chaines, earrings or collars of this mettall: they head some of their arrows herewith, much like our broad arrow heads, very workmanly made. Their chaines are many hollow pieces semented together, ech piece of the bignesse of one of our reeds, a finger in length, ten or twelue of them together on a string, which they weare about their necks: their collars they weare about their bodies like bandelieres a handfull broad, all hollow pieces, like the other, but somewhat shorter, foure hundred pieces in a collar, very fine and euenly set together. Besides these, they haue large drinking cups, made like sculles, and other thinne plates of Copper, made much like our boare-speare blades, all which they so little esteeme, as they offered their fairest collars or chaines, for a knife or such like trifle, but we seemed little to regard it; yet I was desirous to vnderstand where they had such store of this mettall, and made signes to one of them (with whom I was verie familiar) who taking a piece of Copper in his hand, made a hole with his finger in the ground, and withall, pointed to the maine from whence they came. They strike fire in this manner; euery one carrieth about him in a purse of tewed leather, a Minerall stone (which I take to be their Copper) and with a flat Emerie stone (wherewith Glasiers cut glasse, and Cutlers glase blades) tied fast to the end of a little sticke, gently he striketh vpon the Minerall stone, and within a stroke or two, a sparke falleth vpon a piece of Touch-wood (much like our Spunge in _England_) and with the least sparke he maketh a fire presently. We had also of their Flaxe, wherewith they make many strings and cords, but it is not so bright of colour as ours in England: I am perswaded they haue great store growing vpon the maine, as also Vines and many other rich commodities, which we, wanting both time and meanes, could not possibly discouer. Thus they continued with vs three daies, euery night retiring themselues to the furthermost part of our Island two or three miles from our fort: but the fourth day they returned to the maine, pointing fiue or six times to the Sun, and once to the maine, which we vnderstood, that within fiue or six daies they would come from the maine to vs againe: but being in their canowes a little from the shore, they made huge cries & shouts of ioy vnto vs; and we with our trumpet and cornet, and casting vp our cappes into the aire, made them the best farewell we could: yet sixe or seuen of them remained with vs behinde, bearing vs company euery day into the woods, and helpt vs to cut and carie our Sassafras, and some of them lay aboord our ship. These people, as they are exceeding courteous, gentle of disposition, and well conditioned, excelling all others that we haue seene; so for shape of bodie and louely fauour, I thinke they excell all the people of _America_; of stature much higher than we; of complexion or colour, much like a darke Oliue; their eie-browes and haire blacke, which they weare long, tied vp behinde in knots, whereon they pricke feathers of fowles, in fashion of a crownet: some of them are blacke thin bearded; they make beards of the haire of beasts: and one of them offered a beard of their making to one of our sailers, for his that grew on his face, which because it was of a red colour, they iudged to be none of his owne. They are quicke eied, and stedfast in their looks, fearelesse of others harmes, as intending none themselues; some of the meaner sort giuen to filching, which the very name of Saluages (not weighing their ignorance in good or euill) may easily excuse: their garments are of Deere skins, and some of them weare Furres round and close about their necks. They pronounce our language with great facilitie; for one of them one day sitting by me, vpon occasion I spake smiling to him these words: _How now (sirha) are you so saucie with my Tabacco_: which words (without any further repetition) he suddenly spake so plaine and distinctly, as if he had beene a long scholar in the language. Many other such trials we had, which are heere needlesse to repeat. Their women (such as we saw) which were but three in all, were but lowe of stature, their eie-browes, haire, apparell, and maner of wearing, like to the men, fat, and very well fauoured, and much delighted in our compane; the men are very dutifull towards them. And truely, the holsomnesse and temperature of this Climat, doth not onely argue this people to be answerable to this description, but also of a perfect constitution of body, actiue, strong, healthfull, and very wittie, as the sundry toies of theirs cunningly wrought, may easily witnes. For the agreeing of this Climat with vs (I speake of my selfe, & so I may iustly do for the rest of our companie) that we found our health & strength all the while we remained there, so to renew and increase, as notwithstanding our diet and lodging was none of the best, yet not one of our company (God be thanked) felt the least grudging or inclination to any disease or sicknesse, but were much fatter and in better health than when we went out of _England_. But after our barke had taken in so much Sassafras, Cedar, Furres, Skinnes, and other commodities, as were thought conuenient; some of our company that had promised captaine _Gosnold_ to stay, hauing nothing but a sauing voyage in their minds, made our company of inhabitants (which was small enough before) much smaller; so as captaine _Gosnold_ seeing his whole strength to consist but of twelue men, and they but meanly prouided, determined to returne for _England_, leauing this Island (which he called _Elizabeths Island_) with as many true sorrowfull eies, as were before desirous to see it. So the 18 of June, being Friday, we weighed, and with indifferent faire winde and weather came to anker the 23 of July, being also Friday (in all, bare fiue weeks) before _Exmouth_.

Your Lordships to command,
_Iohn Brereton_.

A briefe Note of such commodities as we saw in the countrey
notwithstanding our small time of stay.

_Trees._

SAssafras trees, the roots whereof at 3. s. the pound are 336. l.
the tunne.
Cedars tall and straight, in great abundance.
Cypres trees.
Oakes.
Walnut trees great store.
Elmes.
Beech.
Hollie.
Haslenut trees.
Cherry trees.
Cotten trees.
Other fruit trees to vs vnknowen.

_Fowles._

EAgles.
Hernshawes.
Cranes.
Bitters.
Mallards.
Teales.
Geese.
Pengwins.
Ospreis and Hawks.
Crowes.
Rauens.
Mewes.
Doues.
Sea-pies.
Blacke-birds with carnation wings.

_The finder of our Sassafras in these parts, was one Master_ Robert
Meriton.

_Beasts._

DEere in great store, very great and large.
Beares.
Luzernes.
Blacke Foxes.
Beavers.
Otters.
Wilde-Cats, verie large and great.
Dogs like Foxes, blacke and sharpe nosed.
Conies.

_Fruits, Plants, and Herbs._

TAbacco, excellent sweet and strong.
Vines in more plenty than in _France_.
Ground-nuts, good meat, & also medicinable.
Strawberries.
Raspeberries.
Gooseberries.
Hurtleberries.
Pease growing naturally.
Flaxe.
Sorrell, & manie other herbs wherewith they made fallets.

_Fishes._

WHales.
Tortoises, both on land and sea.
Seales.
Cods.
Mackerell.
Breames.
Herrings.
Thornbacke.
Hakes.
Rockefish.
Doggefish.
Lobsters.
Crabbes.
Muscles.
Wilks.
Cockles.
Scallops.
Oisters.

SNakes foure foot in length, and sixe inches about, which the
Indians eat for daintie meat, the skinnes whereof they vse for
girdles.

_Mettals and Stones._

COpper in great abundance.
Emerie stones for Glasiers & Cutlers.
Alabaster very white.
Stones glistering and shining like Minerall stones.
Stones of a blue metalline colour, which we take to be Steele oare.
Stones of all sorts for buildings.
Cley, red and white.

Martin Pring

1603

PLYMOUTH HARBOUR

MARTIN PRING, _who became more famous ten years later in the East
India trade, and who rose to the dignity of “Generall to the
Fraternity of the Trinitie House” at Bristol, was selected by
sundry of the chiefest merchants of that town in 1603 to represent
their interests on a voyage to the region where Gosnold and Gilbert
had gathered a profitable cargo of sassafras. He was given the
charge of “a small ship called the Speed-well in burthen about
fiftie tunnes, manning the same with some thirtie men and Boyes ...
with a Barke called the Discoverer, of six and twentie tunnes or
thereabout, being thirteene men and a Boy in all in that Barke.”
They made land on the Maine coast, and after following the northern
shore of Massachusetts Bay for a ways, struck across to the
southwest, hitting upon Plymouth harbour. Here there was abundance
of sassafras, and the ships’ companies made a camp on shore while
they gathered their cargo._

_Pring wrote an account of the voyage for Richard Hakluyt, who
had persuaded the Bristol merchants to make the venture. Samuel
Purchas, who came into possession of Hakluyt’s papers, printed the
narrative at London in 1625, in the fourth volume of “Purchas his
Pilgrimes.”_

A VOYAGE set out from the Citie of _Bristoll_ at the charge of the
chiefest Merchants and Inhabitants of the said Citie with a small
Ship and a Barke for the discouerie of the North part of _Virginia_.

WE set saile from _Milford Hauen_ ♦_April 1603_♦ (where the winds had stayed vs a fortnight, in which space we heard of Queen _Elizabeths_ death) the tenth of Aprill 1603. In our course we passed by the Iles of the _Açores_, had first sight of the _Pike_, and afterward of the Iland of _Cueruo_ and _Flores_, and after we had runne some fiue hundred leagues, ♦_June_♦ we fell with a multitude of small Ilands on the North Coast of _Virginia_, in the latitude of 43. degrees, the ······· of Iune, which Ilands wee found very pleasant to behold, adorned with goodly grasse and sundry sorts of Trees, as Cedars, Spruce, Pines, and Firre-trees. Heere wee found an excellent fishing for Cods, which are better then those of _New-found-land_, and withall we saw good and Rockie ground fit to drie them vpon: also we see no reason to the contrary, but that Salt may bee made in these parts, a matter of no small importance. We sayled to the South-west end of these Ilands, and there rode with our ships vnder one of the greatest. One of them we named _Foxe Iland_, because we found those kind of beasts thereon. So passing through the rest with our Boates to the mayne Land, which lieth for a good space North-east and South-west, we found very safe riding among them, in sixe, seuen, eight, ten and twelue fathomes. At length comming to the Mayne in the latitude of 43. degrees and an halfe, we ranged the same to the South-west. In which course we found foure Inlets, the most Easterly whereof was barred at the mouth, but hauing passed ouer the barre, wee ranne vp into it fiue miles, and for a certaine space found very good depth, and comming out againe, as we sailed South-westward, we lighted vpon two other Inlets, which vpon our search we found to pierce not farre into the Land, the fourth and most Westerly was the best, which we rowed vp ten or twelue miles.

In all these places we found no people, but signes of fires where they had beene. Howbeit we beheld very goodly Groues and Woods replenished with tall Okes, Beeches, Pine-trees, Firre-trees, Hasels, Wich-hasels and Maples. We saw here also sundry sorts of Beasts, as Stags, Deere, Beares, Wolues, Foxes, Lusernes, and Dogges with sharpe noses. But meeting with no Sassafras, we left these places with all the foresaid Ilands, ♦_Cape Neddock Nubble_♦ shaping our course for _Sauage Rocke_ discouered the yeere before by Captaine _Gosnold_, where going vpon the Mayne we found people, with whom we had no long conuersation, because here also we could find no Sassafras. Departing hence we bare into that great Gulfe which Captaine _Gosnold_ ouer-shot the yeere before, coasting and finding people on the North side thereof. Not yet satisfied in our expectation, we left them and sailed ouer, and came to an Anchor on the South side in the latitude of 41. degrees and odde minute: where we went on Land in a certaine Bay, ♦_Plymouth Harbour_♦ which we called _Whitson Bay_, by the name of the Worshipfull Master _Iohn Whitson_ then Maior of the Citie of _Bristoll_, and one of the chiefe Aduenturers, and finding a pleasant Hill thereunto adioyning, wee called it _Mount Aldworth_, for Master _Robert Aldworths_ sake a chiefe furtherer of the Voyage, as well with his Purse as with his trauell. Here we had sufficient quantitie of Sassafras.

At our going on shore, vpon view of the people and sight of the place, wee thought it conuenient to make a small baricado to keepe diligent watch and ward in, for the aduertizement and succour of our men, while they should worke in the Woods. During our abode on shore, the people of the Countrey came to our men sometimes ten, twentie, fortie or threescore, and at one time one hundred and twentie at once. We vsed them kindly, and gaue them diuers sorts of our meanest Merchandize. They did eat Pease and Beanes with our men. Their owne victuals were most of fish.

We had a youth in our company that could play vpon a Gitterne, in whose homely Musicke they tooke great delight, and would giue him many things, as Tobacco, Tobacco-pipes, Snakes skinnes of sixe foot long, which they vse for Girdles, Fawnes skinnes, and such like, and danced twentie in a Ring, and the Gitterne in the middest of them, vsing many Sauage gestures, singing _lo, la, lo, la, la, lo_: him that first brake the ring, the rest would knocke and cry out vpon. Some few of them had plates of Brasse a foot long, and halfe a foote broad before their breasts. Their weapons are Bowes of fiue or sixe foot long of Wich-hasell, painted blacke and yellow, the strings of three twists of sinewes, bigger then our Bow-strings. Their Arrowes are of a yard and an handfull long not made of Reeds, but of a fine light wood very smooth and round with three long and deepe blacke feathers of some Eagle, Vulture, or Kite, as closely fastened with some binding matter, as any Fletcher of ours can glue them on. Their Quiuers are full a yard long, made of long dried Rushes wrought about two handfuls broad aboue, and one handfull beneath with prettie workes and compartiments, Diamant wise of red and other colours.

We carried with vs from _Bristoll_ two excellent Mastiues, of whom the _Indians_ were more afraid, then of twentie of our men. One of these Mastiues would carrie a halfe Pike in his mouth. And one Master _Thomas Bridges_ a Gentleman of our company accompanied only with one of these Dogs, and passed sixe miles alone in the Countrey hauing lost his fellowes, and returned safely. And when we would be rid of the Sauages company wee would let loose the Mastiues, and suddenly with out-cryes they would flee away. These people in colour are inclined to a swart, tawnie, or Chestnut colour, not by nature but accidentally, and doe weare their haire brayded in foure parts, and trussed vp about their heads with a small knot behind: in which haire of theirs they sticke many feathers and toyes for brauerie and pleasure. They couer their priuities only with a piece of leather drawne betwixt their twists and fastened to their Girdles behind and before: whereunto they hang their bags of Tobacco. They seeme to bee somewhat iealous of their women, for we saw not past two of them, who weare Aprons of Leather skins before them downe to the knees, and a Beares skinne like an _Irish_ Mantle ouer one shoulder. The men are of stature somewhat taller then our ordinary people, strong, swift, well proportioned, and giuen to treacherie, as in the end we perceiued.

Their Boats, whereof we brought one to _Bristoll_, were in proportion like a Wherrie of the Riuer of _Thames_, seuenteene foot long and foure foot broad, made of the Barke of a Birch-tree, farre exceeding in bignesse those of _England_: it was sowed together with strong and tough Oziers or twigs, and the seames couered ouer with Rozen or Turpentine little inferiour in sweetnesse to Frankincense, as we made triall by burning a little thereof on the coales at sundry times after our coming home: it was also open like a Wherrie, and sharpe at both ends, sauing that the beake was a little bending roundly vpward. And though it carried nine men standing vpright, yet it weighed not at the most aboue sixtie pounds in weight, a thing almost incredible in regard of the largenesse and capacitie thereof. Their Oares were flat at the end like an Ouen peele, made of Ash or Maple very light and strong, about two yards long, wherewith they row very swiftly: Passing vp a Riuer we saw certaine Cottages together, abandoned by the Sauages, and not farre off we beheld their Gardens and one among the rest of an Acre of ground, and in the same was sowne Tobacco, Pompions, Cowcumbers and such like; and some of the people had Maiz or _Indian_ Wheate among them. In the fields we found wild Pease, Strawberries very faire and bigge, Gooseberries, Raspices, Hurts, and other wild fruits.

Hauing spent three Weeks vpon the Coast before we came to this place where we meant to stay and take in our lading, according to our instructions giuen vs in charge before our setting forth, we pared and digged vp the Earth with shouels, and sowed Wheate, Barley, Oates, Pease, and sundry sorts of Garden Seeds, which for the time of our abode there, being about seuen Weeks, although they were late sowne, came vp very well, giuing certaine testimonie of the goodnesse of the Climate and of the Soyle. And it seemeth that Oade, Hempe, Flaxe, Rape-seed and such like which require a rich and fat ground, would prosper excellently in these parts. For in diuers places here we found grasse aboue knee deepe.

As for Trees the Country yeeldeth Sassafras a plant of souereigne vertue for the _French_ Poxe, and as some of late haue learnedly written good against the Plague and many other Maladies; Vines, Cedars, Okes, Ashes, Beeches, Birch trees, Cherie trees bearing fruit whereof wee did eate, Hasels, Wich-hasels, the best wood of all other to make Sope-ashes withall, Walnut-trees, Maples, holy to make Bird-lime with, and a kinde of tree bearing a fruit like a small red Peare-plum with a crowne or knop on the top (a plant whereof carefully wrapped vp in earth, Master _Robert Salterne_ brought to Bristoll.) We found also low trees bearing faire Cheries. There were likewise a white kind of Plums which were growne to their perfect ripenesse. With diuers other sorts of trees to vs vnknowne.

The Beasts here are Stags, fallow Deere in abundance, Beares, Wolues, Foxes, Lusernes, and (some say) Tygres, Porcupines, and Dogges with sharpe and long noses, with many other sorts of wild beasts, whose Cases and Furres being hereafter purchased by exchange may yeeld no smal gaine to vs. Since as we are certainly informed, the _Frenchmen_ brought from _Canada_ the value of thirtie thousand Crownes in the yeare 1604. Almost in Beuers and Otters skinnes only. The most vsuall Fowles are Eagles, Vultures, Hawkes, Cranes, Herons, Crowes, Gulls, and great store of other Riuer and Sea-fowles. And as the Land is full of Gods good blessings, so is the Sea replenished with great abundance of excellent fish, as Cods sufficient to lade many ships, which we found vpon the Coast in the moneth of Iune, Seales to make Oile withall, Mullets, Turbuts, Mackerels, Herrings, Crabs, Lobsters, Creuises and Muscles with ragged Pearles in them.

By the end of Iuly we had laded our small Barke called the Discouerer, ♦_July_♦ with as much Sassafras as we thought sufficient, and sent her home into _England_ before, to giue some speedie contentment to the Aduenturers; who arriued safely in _Kingrode_ aboue a fortnight before vs. After their departure we so bestirred our selues, that our shippe also had gotten in her lading, during which time there fell out this accident. On a day about noone tide while our men which vsed to cut down Sassafras in the Woods were asleepe, as they vsed to doe for two houres in the heat of the day, there came downe about seuen score Sauages armed with their Bowes and Arrowes, and enuironed our House or Barricado, wherein were foure of our men alone with their Muskets to keepe Centinell, whom they sought to haue come downe vnto them, which they vtterly refused, and stood vpon their guard. Our Master likewise being very carefull and circumspect hauing not past two with him in the shippe put the same in the best defence he could, lest they should haue inuaded the same, and caused a piece of great Ordnance to bee shot off, to giue terrour to the _Indians_, and warning to our men which were fast asleepe in the Woods: at the noyse of which Peece they were a little awaked, and beganne a little to call for _Foole_ and _Gallant_, their great and fearefull Mastiues, and full quietly laid themselues downe againe, but beeing quickned vp eftsoones againe with a second shot they rowsed vp themselues, betooke them to their weapons and with their Mastiues, great _Foole_ with an halfe Pike in his mouth drew downe to their ship: whom when the _Indians_ beheld afarre off, with the Mastiue which they most feared, in dissembling manner they turned all to a iest and sport, and departed away in friendly manner: yet not long after, euen the day before our departure, they set fire on the Woods where wee wrought, which wee did behold to burne for a mile space, and the very same day that wee weighed Anchor, they came downe to the shoare in greater number, to wit, very neere two hundred by our estimation, and some of them came in their Boates to our ship, and would haue had vs come in againe: but we sent them backe, and would none of their entertainment.

About the eighth or ninth of August, ♦_August_♦ wee left this excellent Hauen at the entrance whereof we found twentie fathomes water, and rode at our ease in seuen fathomes being Land-locked, the Hauen winding in compasse like the shell of a Snaile, and it is in latitude of one and forty degrees and fiue and twentie minutes.

This by the way is not to be forgotten, that our Captaine fell so much to the Northward because he would find high grounds, where commonly the best Hauens are: which also fell out to his expectation. We also obserued that we could find no Sassafras but in sandie ground. In our returne we brought our selues into the latitude of eight and thirtie degrees about the _Açores_ for certaine causes, and within fiue weekes space came from our Port of _Virginia_, into the Soundings of _England_, but there being long encountred with Easterly winds, we came at length into _Kingrode_, the second of October 1603. The Discouerer was out fiue moneths and an halfe. The _Speedwell_ was out sixe moneths vpon the Voyage.

Samuel de Champlain

1605

MAINE AND
MASSACHUSETTS

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN _first demonstrated his talents as an observer
of unfamiliar regions during a two years’ trip through the West
Indies and to the City of Mexico. His report on these travels
doubtless commended him to the French king, who appointed him in
1603 to accompany an expedition which visited the St. Lawrence in
search of a suitable location for a settlement. The following year
Champlain made another voyage to America with Sieur de Monts, who
attempted to plant a colony in Nova Scotia. The location proving
unsatisfactory, Champlain made three voyages toward the west,
hoping to find a place more to his liking. In September, 1604, he
visited Mount Desert, and sailed up the Penobscot as far as Bangor.
In the summer of 1605 he sailed along the Maine and Massachusetts
coasts as far as Nauset harbour on the outer shores of Cape Cod. In
1606 he continued his explorations, visiting Gloucester harbour,
then crossing to Cape Cod, and following the coast around to
Vineyard Sound._

_Champlain made careful notes of all his observations, drawing maps
and sketches of all important points. His reports were afterwards
written out and sent home to France, where they were printed, the
volumes going through several editions. An English translation of
Champlain’s writings, by Dr. Charles P. Otis, with editorial notes
by the Rev. E. F. Slafter, was issued in 1878 by the Prince Society
of Boston, by whose courtesy that translation of chapters vii,
viii, and ix of Champlain’s “Voyages,” printed at Paris in 1613, is
now reprinted with some verbal changes._

DISCOVERY of the Coast of the _Almouchiquois_ as far as the
Forty-Second Degree of Latitude, and Details of this Voyage.

ON the 18th of the month of June, 1605, ♦_1605 June_♦ Sieur de Monts set out from the Island of St. Croix with some gentlemen, twenty sailors, and a savage named Panounias, together with his wife, whom he was unwilling to leave behind. These we took, in order to serve us as guides to the country of the Almouchiquois, in the hope of exploring and learning more particularly by their aid what the character of this country was, especially since she was a native of it.

Coasting along inside of Manan, ♦_Manan Island_♦ an island three leagues from the main land, we came to the Ranges on the seaward side, at one of which we anchored, where there was a large number of crows, of which our men captured a great many, and we called it the Isle aux Corneilles. Thence we went to the Island of Monts Deserts, ♦_Mount Desert_♦ at the entrance of the river Norumbegue, as I have before stated, and sailed five or six leagues among many islands. ♦_Mouth of Penobscot River_♦ Here there came to us three savages in a canoe from Bedabedec Point, where their captain was; and, after we had had some conversation with them, they returned the same day.

On Friday, the 1st of July, ♦_July_♦ we set out from one of the islands at the mouth of the river, where there is a very good harbour for vessels of a hundred or a hundred and fifty tons. This day we made some twenty-five leagues between Bedabedec Point and many islands and rocks, which we explored as far as the river Quinibequy, ♦_Kennebec River_♦ at the mouth of which is a very high island, which we called the Tortoise. ♦_Seguin Island_♦ Between the latter and the main land there are some scattering rocks, which are covered at full tide, although the sea is then seen to break over them. Tortoise Island and the river lie south-south-east and north-north-west. As you enter, there are two medium-sized islands forming the entrance, one on one side, the other on the other; and some three hundred paces farther in are two rocks, where there is no wood, but some little grass. We anchored three hundred paces from the entrance in five and six fathoms of water. While in this place, we were overtaken by fogs, on account of which we resolved to enter, in order to see the upper part of the river and the savages who live there; and we set out for this purpose on the 5th of the month. Having made some leagues, our barque came near being lost on a rock which we grazed in passing. Further on, ♦_Back River_♦ we met two canoes which had come to hunt birds, which for the most part are moulting at this season, and cannot fly. We addressed these savages by aid of our own, who went to them with his wife, who made them understand the reason of our coming. We made friends with them and with the savages of this river, who served us as guides. Proceeding farther, in order to see their captain, named Manthoumermer, we passed, after we had gone seven or eight leagues, by some islands, straits, and brooks, ♦_Hockamock Bay_♦ which extend along the river, where we saw some fine meadows. After we had coasted along an island some four leagues in length, ♦_Westport Island_♦ they conducted us to where their chief was with twenty-five or thirty savages, who as soon as we had anchored, ♦_Wiscasset Harbour_♦ came to us in a canoe, separated a short distance from ten others, in which were those who accompanied him. Coming near our barque, he made an harangue, in which he expressed the pleasure it gave him to see us, and said that he desired to form an alliance with us and to make peace with his enemies through our mediation. He said that, on the next day, he would send to two other captains of savages, who were in the interior, one called Marchin, and the other Sasinou, chief of the river Quinibequy. Sieur de Monts gave them some cakes and peas, with which they were greatly pleased. The next day they guided us down the river another way than that by which we had come, in order to go to a lake; and, passing by some islands, they left, each one of them, an arrow near a cape, ♦_Hockamock Point_♦ where all the savages pass, and they believe that if they should not do this some misfortune would befall them, according to the persuasions of the devil. They live in such superstitions, and practice many others of the same sort. Beyond this cape we passed a very narrow waterfall, ♦_Hell Gate_♦ but not without great difficulty; for, although we had a favorable and fresh wind, and trimmed our sails to receive it as well as possible, in order to see whether we could not pass it in that way, we were obliged to attach a hawser to some trees on shore and all pull on it. In this way, by means of our arms, together with the help of the wind, which was favourable to us, we succeeded in passing it. The savages who were with us carried their canoes by land, being unable to row them. After going over this fall, we saw some fine meadows. I was greatly surprised by this fall, since as we descended with the tide we found it in our favour, but contrary to us when we came to the fall. But, after we had passed it, it descended as before, which gave us great satisfaction. Pursuing our route, we came to the lake, ♦_Merrymeeting Bay_♦ which is from three to four leagues in length, where there are some islands, and two rivers enter it, the Quinibequy coming from the north-north-east, and the other from the north-west, ♦_Kennebec and Androscoggin Rivers_♦ whence Marchin and Sasinou were to come. Having awaited them all this day, and seeing that they did not come, we resolved to improve our time. We weighed anchor accordingly, and there accompanied us two savages from this lake to serve as guides. The same day we anchored at the mouth of the river, where we caught a large number of excellent fish of various sorts. Meanwhile, our savages went hunting, but did not return. The route by which we descended this river is much safer and better than that by which we went up. Tortoise Island before the mouth of this river is in latitude 44°; and 19° 12′ of the deflection of the magnetic needle. ♦_Real latitude 43° 42′ 25″_♦ They go by this river across the country to Quebec some fifty leagues, making only one portage of two leagues. After the portage, you enter another little stream ♦_Chaudière River_♦ which flows into the great river St. Lawrence. This river Quinibequy is very dangerous for vessels half a league from its mouth, on account of the small amount of water, great tides, rocks and shoals that are there outside as well as within. But it has a good channel, if it were well marked out. The little of the country which I have seen, along the shores of the river, is very poor, for there are only rocks on all sides. There are a great many small oaks, and very little arable land. This place abounds in fish, as do the other rivers which I have mentioned. The people live like those in the neighbourhood of our settlement; and they told us that the savages who plant the Indian corn dwelt very far in the interior, and that they had given up planting it on the coasts on account of the war they had with others, who came and took it away. This is what I have been able to learn about this region, which I think is no better than the others.

On the 8th of the month, we set out from the mouth of this river, which we could not do sooner on account of the fogs. We made that day some four leagues, and passed a bay, ♦_Casco Bay_♦ where there are a great many islands. From here large mountains are seen to the west, ♦_White Mountains_♦ in which is the dwelling-place of a savage captain called Aneda, who encamps near the river Quinibequy. I was satisfied from this name that it was one of his tribe that had discovered the plant called Aneda, which Jacques Cartier said was so powerful against the malady called scurvy, of which we have already spoken, which harassed his company as well as our own, when they wintered in Canada. The savages have no knowledge whatever of this plant, and are not aware of its existence, although the above-mentioned savage has the same name. The following day we made eight leagues. As we passed along the coast, we perceived two columns of smoke which some savages made to attract our attention. We went in the direction of them and anchored behind a small island near the main land, ♦_Prout’s Neck_♦ where we saw more than eighty savages running along the shore to see us, dancing and giving expression to their joy. Sieur de Monts sent two men together with our savage to visit them. After they had spoken some time with them, and assured them of our friendship, we left with them one of our number, and they delivered to us one of their companions as a hostage. Meanwhile, Sieur de Monts visited an island, ♦_Richmond Island_♦ which is very beautiful in view of what it produces; for it has fine oaks and nut-trees, the soil cleared up, and many vineyards bearing beautiful grapes in their season, which were the first we had seen on all these coasts from the Cap de la Hève. We named it Isle de Bacchus. It being full tide, we weighed anchor and entered a little river, which we could not sooner do; ♦_Saco River_♦ for there is a bar, there being at low tide only half a fathom of water, at full tide a fathom and a half, and at the highest water two fathoms. On the other side of the bar there are three, four, five, and six fathoms. When we had anchored, a large number of savages came to us on the bank of the river, and began to dance. Their captain, whom they called Honemechin, was not with them at the time. He arrived about two or three hours later with two canoes, when he came sweeping entirely round our barque. Our savage could understand only a few words, as the language of the Almouchiquois (as this nation is called) differs entirely from that of the Souriquois and Etechemins. These people gave signs of being greatly pleased. Their chief had a good figure, was young and agile. We sent some articles of merchandise on shore to barter with them; but they had nothing but their robes to give in exchange, for they preserve only such furs as they need for their garments. Sieur de Monts ordered some provisions to be given to their chief, with which he was greatly pleased, and came several times to the side of our boat to see us. These savages shave off the hair far up on the head, and wear what remains very long, which they comb and twist behind in various ways very neatly, intertwined with feathers which they attach to the head. They paint their faces black and red, like the other savages which we have seen. They are an agile people, with well-formed bodies. Their weapons are pikes, clubs, bows and arrows, at the end of which some attach the tail of a fish called the signoc, others bones, while the arrows of others are entirely of wood. They till and cultivate the soil, something which we have not hitherto observed. In the place of ploughs, they use an instrument of very hard wood, shaped like a spade. This river is called by the inhabitants of the country Choüacoet.

The next day Sieur de Monts and I landed to observe their tillage on the bank of the river. We saw their Indian corn, which they raise in gardens. Planting three or four kernels in one place, they then heap up about it a quantity of earth with shells of the signoc before mentioned. Then three feet distant they plant as much more, and thus in succession. With this corn they put in each hill three or four Brazilian beans, which are of different colours. When they grow up, they interlace with the corn, which reaches to the height of from five to six feet. They keep the ground very free from weeds. We saw there many squashes, and pumpkins, and tobacco, which they likewise cultivate.