Chapter XIX: BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery) (1)

856. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1 pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Mince finely the veal and bacon; add the bread crumbs, gravy, and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat up the eggs thoroughly; add these, mix the whole well together, put into a dish, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. When liked, a little good gravy may be served in a tureen as an accompaniment.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

ROAST BREAST OF VEAL.

857. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; a little flour.

_Mode_.--Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour; put it down to a bright fire, not too near, as it should not be scorched. Baste it plentifully until done; dish it, pour over the meat some good melted butter, and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut lemon.

_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

STEWED BREAST OF VEAL AND PEAS.

858. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6 young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, green peas.

_Mode_.--Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath, and divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter into a frying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice brown colour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves, onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover the meat; well close the lid, and let the whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy as is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour it over the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately; sprinkle these over the veal, and serve. It may be garnished with forcemeat balls, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of cutting up the meat, many persons prefer it dressed whole;--in that case it should be half-roasted before the water, &c. are put to it.

_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

BREEDING OF CALVES.--The forwarding of calves to maturity,
whether intended to be reared for stock, or brought to an early
market as veal, is always a subject of great importance, and
requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection
of the best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be
reared as stock, the breeding should be so arranged that the cow
shall calve about the middle of May. As our subject, however,
has more immediate reference to the calf as _meat_ than as
_stock_, we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure
adopted in the former case; and here, the first process adopted
is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf
_entirely_ from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on
the mother's milk. As the business of the dairy would be
suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young, and
butter, cheese, and cream become _desiderata_,--things to be
desired, but not possessed, a system of economical husbandry
becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce, and yet,
for some weeks at least, nourish the calf on its mother's milk,
but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself:
this, with the proper substituted food on which to rear the
young animal, is called weaning.

VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic).

859. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little pepper, good gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the eggs into slices. Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, eggs, and parsley in layers, with a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full, get some _strong_ stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for 1/2 hour, and when cold, turn it out.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER.

860. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley and butter No. 493.

_Mode_.--Procure 2 white calf's feet; bone them as far as the first joint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put the bacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into a stewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to cover the whole. Stew gently for about 3 hours; take out the feet, dish them, and cover with parsley and butter, made by recipe No. 493. The liquor they were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use: it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, &c. &c.

_Time_.--Rather more than 3 hours.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED.--The age at which a calf ought to
be killed should not be under four weeks: before that time the
flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness, due
development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which
the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend,
whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the
contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of
calves under _six weeks_ of age. The calf is considered in prime
condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to
eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty.

FRICASSEED CALF'S FEET.

861. INGREDIENTS.--A set of calf's feet; for the batter allow for each egg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, hot lard or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm water repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other, until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being kept by the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in cold water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the bones come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquor into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day. Now cut it down in slices about 1/2 inch thick, lay on them a stiff batter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above proportion; season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard. Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire for a minute or two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. This should be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Be careful to have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will run about the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and will be found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, &e. &e.

_Time_.--About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them.

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--This dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons.

COLOUR OF VEAL.--As whiteness of flesh is considered a great
advantage in veal, butchers, in the selection of their calves,
are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and
noting the colour of the calf's eyes; alleging that, from the
signs they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal
will be white or florid.

COLLARED CALF'S HEAD.

862. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepper to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard.

_Mode_.--Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide the head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones, which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten it on the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer of ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer; roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boil it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot, place a heavy weight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain till cold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve.

_Time_.--Altogether 6 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. to 7s. each.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

FEEDING A CALF.--The amount of milk necessary for a calf for
some time, will be about four quarts a day, though, after the
first fortnight, that quantity should be gradually increased,
according to its development of body, when, if fed exclusively
on milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for
the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather
is fine and genial, it should be turned into an orchard or small
paddock for a few hours each day, to give it an opportunity to
acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or
twelfth week, it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain
time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place
supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly
are also highly nutritious substances, and may be used either as
adjuncts or substitutes.

FRICASSEED CALF'S HEAD (an Entree).

863. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste, thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat balls.

_Mode_.--Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nice square pieces. Put 1-1/2 pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a saucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the above proportion; let this simmer gently for 3/4 hour, then strain it and put in the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put in the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice; but be particular, after these two latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or it will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled bacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish the meat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy: when these are set, the sauce may be poured over the meat.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

CALF'S HEAD a la Maitre d'Hotel.

864. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold calf's head, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maitre d'hôtel sauce No. 466.

_Mode_.--Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficiently thick that it may nicely cover the meat; remove the bones from the head, and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in the meat; let it _gradually_ warm through, and, after it boils up, let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 2d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

THE CALF IN AMERICA.--In America, the calf is left with the
mother for three or four days, when it is removed, and at once
fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel, 1
quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of
water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel, is to be
given, lukewarm, morning and evening. In ten days, a bundle of
soft hay is put beside the calf, which he soon begins to eat,
and, at the same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his
manger for him to lick. This process, gradually increasing the
quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued for two months, till
the calf is fit to go to grass, and, as it is said, with the
best possible success. But, in this country, the mode pointed
out in No. 862 has received the sanction of the best experience.

CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

865. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 apples sliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter; then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of a pale brown; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples, and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add the lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may be ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on the top.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. _Seasonable_ from March to October.

VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree).

866. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and popper to taste, a small piece of butter.

_Mode_.--Have the veal cut into slices about 3/4 of an inch in thickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, and brush them over with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixed minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbs down. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and be careful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but not dry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at a good distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour: by this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish, keep them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge in a little flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, then pour as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepper and salt, add a little lemon-juice, give one boil, and pour it over the cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon, and a few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this dish.

_Time_.--For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if very thick, allow more time.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown; the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe. They may also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the engraving.

BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a l'Italienne (an Entree).

867. INGREDIENTS.--Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; powder over them a little salt and pepper; brush them over with the yolk of an egg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter, and, afterwards, in the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clear fire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in the dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the sauce, made by recipe No. 453, in the middle.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB.--When the restoration of Charles II. took
the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the
Commonwealth period, and gave a loose rein to the
long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a
large section of society wedded to the former state of things.
The elders of this party retired from public sight, where,
unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in
seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this
school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet
detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a
novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and
mark their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly
met, in considerable numbers, at some convenient inn, on the
30th of January in each year,--the anniversary of Charles's
death, and dined together off a feast prepared from _calves'
heads_, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an
abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the
house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell;
and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast
young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained _red_ in
wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe, followed
by the chairman, carrying a _calf's head_ pinned up in a napkin,
marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with
great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd
custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early
part of this century it was customary for men of republican
politics always to dine off calf's head on the 30th of January.

VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (an Entree).

868. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets about 3/4 inch in thickness, flatten them, and brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread crumbs and minced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and fold each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them, and send them to table with melted butter or a good gravy.

_Time_.--From 15 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE.

(_Excellent_.)

869. INGREDIENTS.--2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or 12 young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings into a stewpan with a little butter; lay in the cutlets and fry them a nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice, herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stew gently for 2 hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat, take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled _separately_; put them with the veal, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to August with peas;--rather earlier when these are omitted.

SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

870. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger than a crown-piece; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown in butter; dredge again with flour, and add 1/2 pint of water, pouring it in by degrees; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion and mace, and let it simmer very gently about 3/4 hour; flavour the gravy with lemon-juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion; give one boil, and serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cookery).

871. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, a little butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/4 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of sherry.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches in width; hack them with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt, and fry them in a little butter. Dish them, and make a gravy in the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil, and pour it over the collops; garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon, rolled. Forcemeat balls may be added to this dish. If cream is not at hand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk.

_Time_.--About 5 or 7 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from May to October.

COOKING COLLOPS.--Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in his
"Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character," a number of
famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted, and
plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the
following:--A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the
character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was
giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral
qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman; to
which the astounding reply--this was 60 years ago, and a Dean
tells the story--"Oh, d--n her decency; can she make good
collops?"

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.

872. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter.

_Mode_.--Have the fillet cut according to the size required; take out the bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap a nice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417. Prepare sufficient of this, as there should be some left to eat cold, and to season and flavour a mince if required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form; dredge well with flour, put it down at some distance from the fire at first, and baste continually. About 1/2 hour before serving, draw it nearer the fire, that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a rich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace by a silver one; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and serve with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cut lemon to table with roast veal.

_Time_.--A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.

873. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, thickening of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 glass of sherry.

_Mode_.--If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle to stew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies. Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll and skewer it up firmly; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to prevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a little weak stock. Let it simmer very _gently_ until tender, as the more slowly veal is stewed, the better. Strain and thicken the sauce, flavour it with lemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper; give one boil, and pour it over the meat. The skewers should be removed, and replaced by a silver one, and the dish garnished with slices of cut lemon.

_Time_.--A. fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' very gentle stewing.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

THE GOLDEN CALF.--We are told in the book of Genesis, that Aaron, in the lengthened absence of Moses, was constrained by the impatient people to make them an image to worship; and that Aaron, instead of using his delegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes, and appease the discontented Jews, at once complied with their demand, and, telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets, fashioned out of their willing contributions a calf of gold, before which the multitude fell down and worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold, or a wooden effigy merely, coated with metal, is uncertain. To suppose the former,--knowing the size of the image made from such trifling articles as rings, we must presuppose the Israelites to have spoiled the Egyptians most unmercifully: the figure, however, is of more consequence than the weight or size of the idol. That the Israelite brought away more from Goshen than the plunder of the Egyptians, and that they were deeply imbued with Egyptian superstition, the golden calf is only one, out of many instances of proof; for a gilded ox, covered with a pall, was in that country an emblem of Osiris, one of the gods of the Egyptian trinity. Besides having a sacred cow, and many varieties of the holy bull, this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the sun, and offered to it divine honours, as the emblem of frugality, industry, and husbandry. It is therefore probable that, in borrowing so familiar a type, the Israelites, in their calf-worship, meant, under a well-understood cherubic symbol, to acknowledge the full force of those virtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea is full of denunciations against calf-worship in Israel, and alludes to the custom of kissing these idols, Hosea, viii, 4-6.

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (an Entree).

874. INGREDIENTS.--A piece of the fat side of a leg of veal (about 3 lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, pepper to taste, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 pint of stock No. 107.

_Mode_.--The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or it will not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and not thready. Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at one stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp knife make two or three slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the seasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat bacon, as lean gives a red colour to the fricandeau. Slice the vegetables, and put these, with the herbs and spices, in the _middle_ of a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon at the top: these should form a sort of mound in the centre for the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over it a little salt, and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon, &c., without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil; then put it over a slow and equal fire, and let it _simmer very_ gently for about 2-1/2 hours, or longer should it be very large. Baste it frequently with the liquor, and a short time before serving, put it into a brisk oven, to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when it was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off the fat from the liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze the fricandeau, and serve with a purée of whatever vegetable happens to be in season--spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. If very large, allow more time.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (_More economical_.)

875. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of a neck of veal (about 2-1/2 lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fat bacon.

_Mode_.--Cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with a sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones in with a little water, which will serve to moisten the fricandeau: they should stew about 1-1/2 hour. Lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in the preceding recipe, and be careful that the gravy does not touch the fricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 hours; glaze, and serve it on sorrel, spinach, or with a little gravy in the dish.

_Time_.--3 hours.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for an entrée.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--When the prime part of the leg is cut off, it spoils the whole; consequently, to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant. The best end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well.

BOILED CALF'S HEAD (with the Skin on).

876. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1 large bunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3 grains of cayenne.

_Mode_.--Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by the side of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the ear, and with the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not come off easily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly clean, take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soak for an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to soak for a few minutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a stewpan, into which lay the head; cover it with cold water, and bring it gradually to boil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which assists to throw it up. Simmer it very gently from 2-1/2 to 3 hours, and when nearly done, boil the brains for 1/4 hour; skin and chop them, not too finely, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains, parsley, &c., into about 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add the lemon-juice and cayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire. Take up the head, cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish with the brains round it; sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley; brown these before the fire, and serve with a tureen of parsley and butter, and either boiled bacon, ham, or pickled pork as an accompaniment.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours.

_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 7s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the Skin).

877. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the brains removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay the brains also into warm water to soak, and let them remain for about an hour. Put the head into a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it boils, add a little salt; take off every particle of scum as it rises, and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the brains, chop them, and mix with them melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice in the above proportion. Take up the head, skin the tongue, and put it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have ready some parsley and butter, smother the head with it, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a pig's cheek, are indispensable with calf's head. The brains are sometimes chopped with hard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a little Béchamel or white sauce.

_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 hours.

_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 5s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved: it makes excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c. Half a calf's head is as frequently served as a whole one, it being a more convenient-sized joint for a small family. It is cooked in the same manner, and served with the same sauces, as in the preceding recipe.

HASHED CALF'S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery).

878. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold boiled calf's head, 1 quart of the liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded mace, salt and white pepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather more than 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the head was boiled in. Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, and 2 blades of pounded mace, and let these boil for 1 hour, or until the gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain it into a clean stewpan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and add a flavouring of sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above proportion; season with pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; put in the meat, let it _gradually_ warm through, but not boil more than _two_ or _three_ minutes. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of bacon rolled and toasted, placed alternately, and send it to table very hot.

_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

VEAL COLLOPS (an Entree).

879. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, a few slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne to taste, egg and bread crumbs, gravy.

_Mode_.--Cut the veal into long thin collops, flatten them, and lay on each a piece of thin bacon of the same size; have ready some forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417, which spread over the bacon, sprinkle over all a little cayenne, roll them up tightly, and do not let them be more than 2 inches long. Skewer each one firmly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry them a nice brown in a little butter, turning them occasionally, and shaking the pan about. When done, place them on a dish before the fire; put a small piece of butter in the pan, dredge in a little flour, add 1/4 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a seasoning of salt, pepper, and pounded mace; let the whole boil up, and pour it over the collops.

_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

CALF'S LIVER AUX FINES HERBES & SAUCE PIQUANTE.

880. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint water.

_Mode_.--Procure a calf's liver as white as possible, and cut it into slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of a good colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a dish, which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them in the frying-pan with a little more butter; add the remaining ingredients, simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over the liver.

_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

CALF'S LIVER AND BACON.

881. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to taste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 1/4 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of bacon as there are of liver; fry the bacon first, and put that on a hot dish before the fire. Fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon, after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a very little flour. Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, and when done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each. Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small piece of butter, dredge in a little flour, add the lemon-juice and water, give one boil, and pour it in the _middle_ of the dish. It may be garnished with slices of cut lemon, or forcemeat balls.

_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

CALF'S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree).

882. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, lardoons, brown gravy.

_Mode_.--Take a fine white liver, and lard it the same as a fricandeau; put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and seasoning in the above proportion. Let it remain in this pickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste it frequently with the vinegar, &c.; glaze it, serve under it a good brown gravy, or sauce piquante, and send it to table very hot.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--Calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, to which has been added a little fat bacon, will be found a very savoury dish. It should be larded or wrapped in buttered paper, and roasted before a clear fire. Brown gravy and currant jelly should be served with it.

FILLET OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).

883. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 367, a few bread crumbs, clarified butter.

_Mode_.--A fillet of real that has been roasted the preceding day will answer very well for this dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, leaving a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there should be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with forcemeat. Mince finely the meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of the forcemeat to flavour, and stir to it sufficient Béchamel to make it of a proper consistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour, taking care to baste it well, that it may not be dry; put the mince in the place where the meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over it, and drop a little clarified butter on the bread crumbs; put it into the oven for 1/4 hour to brown, and pour Béchamel round the sides of the dish.

_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

TO RAGOUT A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

884. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour, 1 onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery-seed, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, a few young carrots, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of tomato sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the juice of 1/4 lemon.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, season with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in a little butter of a pale brown, and put them into a stewpan with the bone (which should be chopped in several places); add the celery, herbs, mace, and carrots; pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, and let it simmer very gently for 2 hours, over a slow but clear fire. Take out the slices of meat and carrots, strain and thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour; add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, put back the meat and carrots, let these get hot through, and serve. When in season, a few green peas, _boiled separately_, and added to this dish at the moment of serving, would be found a very agreeable addition.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.

STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE.

885. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 lb. of rice.

_Mode_.--Have the knuckle cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, that it may be just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed, as cold boiled veal is not a particularly tempting dish. Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, and put the meat into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it. Let it gradually come to a boil, put in the salt, and remove the scum as fast as it rises. When it has simmered gently for about 3/4 hour, add the remaining ingredients, and stew the whole gently for 2-1/4 hours. Put the meat into a deep dish, pour over it the rice, &c., and send boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley and butter to table with it.

_Time_.--A knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' gentle stewing.

_Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, will be found good; or the rice and macaroni may be omitted, and the veal sent to table smothered in parsley and butter.

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.

886. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; melted butter.

_Mode_.--Paper the kidney fat; roll in and skewer the flap, which makes the joint a good shape; dredge it well with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Should the loin be very large, skewer the kidney back for a time to roast thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and a short time before serving, remove the paper from the kidney, and allow it to acquire a nice brown colour, but it should not be burnt. Have ready some melted butter, put it into the dripping-pan after it is emptied of its contents, pour it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon and forcemeat balls, and send to table with it, boiled bacon, ham, pickled pork, or pig's cheek.

_Time_.--A large loin, 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 9-1/2d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--A piece of toast should be placed under the kidney when the veal is dished.

LOIN OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).

887. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, rather more than 1/2 pint of Béchamel or white sauce.

_Mode_.--A loin of veal which has come from table with very little taken off, answers very well for this dish. Cut off the meat from the inside, mince it, and mix with it some minced lemon-peel; put it into sufficient Béchamel to warm through. In the mean time, wrap the joint in buttered paper, and place it in the oven to warm. When thoroughly hot, dish the mince, place the loin above it, and pour over the remainder of the Béchamel.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to warm the meat in the oven.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

LOIN OF VEAL, a la Daube.

888. INGREDIENTS.--The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of bacon, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, 5 or 6 green onions.

_Mode_.--Cut off the chump from a loin of veal, and take out the bone; fill the cavity with forcemeat No. 417, tie it up tightly, and lay it in a stewpan with the bones and trimmings, and cover the veal with a few slices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and onions, and stock or water; cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid, and simmer for 2 hours, shaking the stewpan occasionally. Take out the bacon, herbs, and onions; reduce the gravy, if not already thick enough, to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve with tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

MINCED VEAL, with Béchamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery).

(_Very Good_.)

889. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 367, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, forcemeat balls.

_Mode_.--Cut--but do not _chop_--a few slices of cold roast veal as finely as possible, sufficient to make rather more than 1 lb., weighed after being minced. Make the above proportion of Béchamel, by recipe No. 367; add the lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let the whole gradually warm through. When it is at the point of simmering, dish it, and garnish with forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread.

_Time_.--To simmer 1 minute.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

MINCED VEAL.

(_More Economical_.)

890. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 or 3 young carrots, a faggot of sweet herbs, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk.

_Mode_.--Take about 1 lb. of veal, and should there be any bones, dredge them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with the brown outside, and a few meat trimmings; add rather more than a pint of water, the onion cut in slices, lemon-peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and herbs; simmer these well for rather more than 1 hour, and strain the liquor. Rub a little flour into some butter; add this to the gravy, set it on the fire, and, when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely by _cutting_, and not chopping it; put it in the gravy; let it get warmed through gradually; add the lemon-juice and cream, and, when it is on the point of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread and slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat balls may also be added. If more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above, put a little very finely minced to the veal, after it is warmed in the gravy.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER.--A singular symbolical
ceremony existed among the Hebrews, in which the calf performed
a most important part. The calf being a type or symbol of Divine
power, or what was called the _Elohim_,--the Almighty
intelligence that brought them out of Egypt,--was looked upon
much in the same light by the Jews, as the cross subsequently
was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of the Divine passion
and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or
the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or
Nazarene, and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on
themselves, and an insult and profanation directly offered to
the Almighty. To render the oath more impressive and solemn, it
was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple, when,
the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of
parts, and with intervening spaces, arranged the severed limbs
on the marble pavement, the one, or all the party, if there were
many individuals, to be bound by the oath, repeating the words
of the compact, threaded their way in and out through the
different spaces, till they had taken the circuit of each
portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To
avert the anger of the Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by
Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a
solemn to God, ratified by the ceremony of the calf, if He
released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of
their Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time,
and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and
privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom the Jews
had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful
army, hastily raised the siege, and, removing to a distance,
took up a position where they could intercept the Egyptians, and
still cover the city. No sooner did the Jews behold the retreat
of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with
their usual turpitude, they repudiated their oath, and refused
to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For this violation of
their covenant with the Lord, they were given over to all the
horrors of the sword, pestilence, and famine--Jeremiah, xxxiv.
15-17.

MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI.

(_A pretty side or corner dish_.)

891. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1 tablespoonful of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs to bind, a small piece of butter.

_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off the brown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion of ham: should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Season highly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, and mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which should bind the mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean time, boil the macaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mould, put some of the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in whatever form is liked; mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill the mould up to the top, put a plate or small dish on it, and steam for 1/2 hour. Turn it out carefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the meat.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 10d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

_Note_.--To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately in a little salt and water; when done, cut them into pieces about 1/8 inch in thickness; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white and red stripes alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in the foregoing recipe, and be very careful in turning it out of the mould.

MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

892. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon, 1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/2 onion chopped fine, salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin and outside pieces, and chop the bacon; mix these well together, adding the lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, heat up an egg, with which bind the mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and hake for 3/4 hour; turn it out of the mould carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy. A sheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ from March to October.

BRAISED NECK OF VEAL.

893. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs.), bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this is not obtainable, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and flour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace.