Chapter XLI (2)

2219. _Harness_, if not carefully preserved, very soon gets a
shabby tarnished appearance. Where the coachman has a proper
harness-room and sufficient assistance, this is inexcusable and
easily prevented. The harness-room should have a wooden lining
all round, and be perfectly dry and well ventilated. Around the
walls, hooks and pegs should be placed, for the several pieces
of harness, at such a height as to prevent their touching the
ground; and every part of the harness should have its peg or
hook,--one for the halters, another for the reins, and others
for snaffles and other bits and metal-work; and either a wooden
horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads. All these parts
should be dry, clean, and shining. This is only to be done by
careful cleaning and polishing, and the use of several requisite
pastes. The metallic parts, when white, should be cleaned by a
soft brush and plate-powder; the copper and brass parts
burnished with rottenstone-powder and oil,--steel with
emery-powder; both made into a paste with a little oil.

2220. An excellent paste for polishing harness and the
leather-work of carriages, is made by melting 8 lbs. of yellow
wax, stirring it till completely dissolved. Into this pour 1 lb.
of litharge of the shops, which has been pounded up with water,
and dried and sifted through a sieve, leaving the two, when
mixed, to simmer on the fire, stirring them continually till all
is melted. When it is a little cool, mix this with 1-1/4 lb. of
good ivory-black; place this again on the fire, and stir till it
boils anew, and suffer it to cool. When cooled a little, add
distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish
paste, scenting it with any essence at hand, thinning it when
necessary from time to time, by adding distilled turpentine.

2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned
before applying this polish, with a brush wetted in a weak
solution of potass and water, washing afterwards with soft river
water, and drying thoroughly. If the leather is not black, one
or two coats of black ink may be given before applying the
polish. When quite dry, the varnish should be laid on with a
soft shoe-brush, using also a soft brush to polish the leather.

2222. When the leather is very old, it may be softened with
fish-oil, and, after putting on the ink, a sponge charged with
distilled turpentine passed over, to scour the surface of the
leather, which should be polished as above.

2223. _For fawn or yellow-coloured leather_, take a quart of
skimmed milk, pour into it 1 oz. of sulphuric acid, and, when
cold, add to it 4 oz. of hydrochloric acid, shaking the bottle
gently until it ceases to emit white vapours; separate the
coagulated from the liquid part, by straining through a sieve,
and store it away till required. In applying it, clean the
leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off
immediately, and apply the composition when dry with a sponge.

2224. _Wheel-grease_ is usually purchased at the shops; but a
good paste is made as follows:--Melt 80 parts of grease, and
stir into it, mixing it thoroughly and smoothly, 20 parts of
fine black-lead in powder, and store away in a tin box for use.
This grease is used in the mint at Paris, and is highly
approved.

2225. _Carriages_ in an endless variety of shapes and names are
continually making their appearance; but the hackney cab or
clarence seems most in request for light carriages; the family
carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence
adapted for family use. The carriage is a valuable piece of
furniture, requiring all the care of the most delicate
upholstery, with the additional disadvantage of continual
exposure to the weather and to the muddy streets.

2216. It requires, therefore, to be carefully cleaned before putting away, and a coach-house perfectly dry and well ventilated, for the wood-work swells with moisture; it shrinks also with heat, unless the timber has undergone a long course of seasoning: it should also have a dry floor, a boarded one being recommended. It must be removed from the ammoniacal influence of the stables, from open drains and cesspools, and other gaseous influences likely to affect the paint and varnish. When the carriage returns home, it should be carefully washed and dried, and that, if possible, before the mud has time to dry on it. This is done by first well slushing it with clean water, so as to wash away all particles of sand, having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting the linings. The body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop, using plenty of clean water, and penetrating into every corner of the carved work, so that not an atom of dirt remains; the body of the carriage is then raised by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it so that the wheel turns freely; this is now thoroughly washed with the mop until the dirt is removed, using a water-brush for corners where the mop does not penetrate. Every particle of mud and sand removed by the mop, and afterwards with a wet sponge, the carriage is wiped dry, and, as soon after as possible, the varnish is carefully polished with soft leather, using a little sweet oil for the leather parts, and even for the panels, so as to check any tendency of the varnish to crack. Stains are removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil; if that fails, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be more successful.

2227. In preparing the carriage for use, the whole body should be rubbed over with a clean leather and carefully polished, the iron-work and joints oiled, the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned,--the one with plate-powder, or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil, and leather kept for the purpose,--the other with rottenstone mixed with a little oil, and applied without too much rubbing, until the paste is removed; but, if rubbed every day with the leather, little more will be required to keep it untarnished. The linings require careful brushing every day, the cushions being taken out and beaten, and the glass sashes should always be bright and clean. The wheel-tires and axletree are carefully seen to, and greased when required, the bolts and nuts tightened, and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled.

2228. These duties, however, are only incidental to the coachman's office, which is to drive; and much of the enjoyment of those in the carriage depends on his proficiency in his art,--much also of the wear of the carriage and horses. He should have sufficient knowledge of the construction of the carriage to know when it is out of order,--to know, also, the pace at which he can go over the road he has under him, without risking the springs, and without shaking those he is driving too much.

2229. Having, with or without the help of the groom or stable-boy, put his horses to the carriage, and satisfied himself, by walking round them, that everything is properly arranged, the coachman proceeds to the off-side of the carriage, takes the reins from the back of the horses, where they were thrown, buckles them together, and, placing his foot on the step, ascends to his box, having his horses now entirely under control. In ordinary circumstances, he is not expected to descend, for where no footman accompanies the carriage, the doors are usually so arranged that even a lady may let herself out, if she wishes it, from the inside. The coachman's duties are to avoid everything approaching an accident, and all his attention is required to guide his horses.

2230. The pace at which he drives will depend upon his
orders,--in all probability a moderate pace of seven or eight
miles an hour; less speed is injurious to the horses, getting
them into lazy and sluggish habits; for it is wonderful how soon
these are acquired by some horses. The writer was once employed
to purchase a horse for a country friend, and he picked a very
handsome gelding out of Collins's stables, which seemed to
answer to his friend's wants. It was duly committed to the
coachman who was to drive it, after some very successful trials
in harness and out of it, and seemed likely to give great
satisfaction. After a time, the friend got tired of his
carriage, and gave it up; as the easiest mode of getting rid of
the horse, it was sent up to the writer's stables,--a present.
Only twelve months had elapsed; the horse was as handsome as
ever, with plenty of flesh, and a sleek glossy coat, and he was
thankfully enough received; but, on trial, it was found that a
stupid coachman, who was imbued with one of their old maxims,
that "it's the pace that kills," had driven the horse, capable
of doing his nine miles an hour with ease, at a jog-trot of four
miles, or four and a half; and now, no persuasion of the whip
could get more out of him. After many unsuccessful efforts to
bring him back to his pace, in one of which a break-down
occurred, under the hands of a professional trainer, he was sent
to the hammer, and sold for a sum that did not pay for the
attempt to break him in. This maxim, therefore, "that it's the
pace that kills," is altogether fallacious in the moderate sense
in which we are viewing it. In the old coaching days, indeed,
when the Shrewsbury "Wonder" drove into the inn yard while the
clock was striking, week after week and mouth after month, with
unerring regularity, twenty-seven hours to a hundred and
sixty-two miles; when the "Quicksilver" mail was timed to eleven
miles an hour between London and Plymouth, with a fine of £5 to
the driver if behind time; when the Brighton "Age," "tool'd" and
horsed by the late Mr. Stevenson, used to dash round the square
as the fifth hour was striking, having stopped at the half-way
house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of sherry
to his passengers,--then the pace was indeed "killing." But the
truth is, horses that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that
_élan_ with which a good driver can inspire them, and they are
left to do their work by mere weight and muscle; therefore,
unless he has contrary orders, a good driver will choose a smart
pace, but not enough to make his horses perspire: on level roads
this should never be seen.

2231. In choosing his horses, every master will see that they
are properly paired,--that their paces are about equal. When
their habits differ, it is the coachman's duty to discover how
he can, with least annoyance to the horses, get that pace out of
them. Some horses have been accustomed to be driven on the
check, and the curb irritates them; others, with harder mouths,
cannot be controlled with the slight leverage this affords; he
must, therefore, accommodate the horses as he best can. The
reins should always be held so that the horses are "in hand;"
but he is a very bad driver who always drives with a tight rein;
the pain to the horse is intolerable, and causes him to rear and
plunge, and finally break sway, if he can. He is also a bad
driver when the reins are always slack; the horse then feels
abandoned to himself; he is neither directed nor supported, and
if no accident occurs, it is great good luck.

2232. The true coachman's hands are so delicate and gentle, that the mere weight of the reins is felt on the bit, and the directions are indicated by a turn of the wrist rather than by a pull; the horses are guided and encouraged, and only pulled up when they exceed their intended pace, or in the event of a stumble; for there is a strong though gentle hand on the reins.

2233. _The Whip_, in the hands of a good driver, and with well-bred cattle, is there, more as a precaution than a "tool" for frequent use; if he uses it, it is to encourage, by stroking the flanks; except, indeed, he has to punish some waywardness of temper, and then he does it effectually, taking care, however, that it is done on the flank, where there is no very tender part, never on the crupper. In driving, the coachman should never give way to temper. How often do we see horses stumble from being conducted, or at least "allowed," to go over bad ground by some careless driver, who immediately wreaks that vengeance on the poor horse which might, with much more justice, be applied to his own brutal shoulders. The whip is of course useful, and even necessary, but should be rarely used, except to encourage and excite the horses.

DUTIES OF THE VALET.

2234. _Attendants on the Person_.-"No man is a hero to his valet," saith the proverb; and the corollary may run, "No lady is a heroine to her maid." The infirmities of humanity are, perhaps, too numerous and too equally distributed to stand the severe microscopic tests which attendants on the person have opportunities of applying. The valet and waiting-maid are placed near the persons of the master and mistress, receiving orders only from them, dressing them, accompanying them in all their journeys, the confidants and agents of their most unguarded moments, of their most secret habits, and of course subject to their commands,--even to their caprices; they themselves being subject to erring judgment, aggravated by an imperfect education. All that can be expected from such servants is polite manners, modest demeanour, and a respectful reserve, which are indispensable. To these, good sense, good temper, some self-denial, and consideration for the feelings of others, whether above or below them in the social scale, will be useful qualifications. Their duty leads them to wait on those who are, from sheer wealth, station, and education, more polished, and consequently more susceptible of annoyance; and any vulgar familiarity of manner is opposed to all their notions of self-respect. Quiet unobtrusive manners, therefore, and a delicate reserve in speaking of their employers, either in praise or blame, is as essential in their absence, as good manners and respectful conduct in their presence.

2235. Some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treating of the duties of the footman in a small family. His day commences by seeing that his master's dressing-room is in order; that the housemaid has swept and dusted it properly; that the fire is lighted and burns cheerfully; and some time before his master is expected, he will do well to throw up the sash to admit fresh air, closing it, however, in time to recover the temperature which he knows his master prefers. It is now his duty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire, to be aired properly; to lay the trousers intended to be worn, carefully brushed and cleaned, on the back of his master's chair; while the coat and waistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, are laid in their place ready to put on when required. All the articles of the toilet should be in their places, the razors properly set and stropped, and hot water ready for use.

2236. Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving themselves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required; and he should, besides, be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, he has to brush the hair, beard, and moustache, where that appendage is encouraged, arranging the whole simply and gracefully, according to the age and style of countenance. Every fortnight, or three weeks at the utmost, the hair should be cut, and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often as required. A good valet will now present the various articles of the toilet as they are wanted; afterwards, the body-linen, neck-tie, which he will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waistcoat, coat, and boots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished.

2237. Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, the valet will hand him his cane, gloves, and hat, the latter well brushed on the outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a clean handkerchief, respectfully attend him to the door, and open it for him, and receive his last orders for the day.

2238. He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room, cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes that may be left about the room, and puts them away in the drawers.

2239. Gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes and appearance; it is the valet's duty, in this case, where his master permits it, to select from the wardrobe such things as are suitable for the occasion, so that he may appear with scrupulous neatness and cleanliness; that his linen and neck-tie, where that is white or coloured, are unsoiled; and where he is not accustomed to change them every day, that the cravat is turned, and even ironed, to remove the crease of the previous fold. The coat collar,--which where the hair is oily and worn long, is apt to get greasy--should also be examined; a careful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as they appear, first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectified spirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn, which has a renovating effect, and the smell of which soon disappears. The grease is dissolved and removed by gentle scraping. The grease removed, add a little more of the spirit, and rub with a piece of clean cloth; finish by adding a few drops more; rub it with the palm of the hand, in the direction of the grain of the cloth, and it will be clean and glossy as the rest of the garment.

2240. Polish for the boots is an important matter to the valet,
and not always to be obtained good by purchase; never so good,
perhaps, as he can make for himself after the following
recipes:--Take of ivory-black and treacle each 4 oz., sulphuric
acid 1 oz., best olive-oil 2 spoonfuls, best white-wine vinegar
3 half-pints: mix the ivory-black and treacle well in an earthen
jar; then add the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the
mixture; next pour in the oil; and, lastly, add the vinegar,
stirring it in by degrees, until thoroughly incorporated.

241. Another polish is made by mixing 1 oz. each of pounded
galls and logwood-chips, and 3 lbs. of red French vine
(ordinaire). Boil together till the liquid is reduced to half
the quantity, and pour it off through a strainer. Now take 1/2
lb. each of pounded gum-arabic and lump-sugar, 1 oz. of green
copperas, and 3 lbs. of brandy. Dissolve the gum-arabic in the
preceding decoction, and add the sugar and copperas: when all is
dissolved and mixed together, stir in the brandy, mixing it
smoothly. This mixture will yield 5 or 6 lbs. of a very superior
polishing paste for boots and shoes.

2242. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that having discharged all the commissions intrusted to him by his master, such as conveying notes or messages to friends, or the tradesmen, all of which he should punctually and promptly attend to, it is his duty to be in waiting when his master returns home to dress for dinner, or for any other occasion, and to have all things prepared for this second dressing. Previous to this, he brings under his notice the cards of visitors who may have called, delivers the messages be may have received for him, and otherwise acquits himself of the morning's commissions, and receives his orders for the remainder of the day. The routine of his evening duty is to have the dressing-room and study, where there is a separate one, arranged comfortably for his master, the fires lighted, candles prepared, dressing-gown and slippers in their place, and aired, and everything in order that is required for his master's comforts.

FEMALE DOMESTICS.

DUTIES OF THE LADY'S-MAID.

2243. The duties of a lady's-maid are more numerous, and perhaps more onerous, than those of the valet; for while the latter is aided by the tailor, the hatter, the linen-draper, and the perfumer, the lady's-maid has to originate many parts of the mistress's dress herself: she should, indeed, be a tolerably expert milliner and dressmaker, a good hairdresser, and possess some chemical knowledge of the cosmetics with which the toilet-table is supplied, in order to use them with safety and effect. Her first duty in the morning, after having performed her own toilet, is to examine the clothes put off by her mistress the evening before, either to put them away, or to see that they are all in order to put on again. During the winter, and in wet weather, the dresses should be carefully examined, and the mud removed. Dresses of tweed, and other woollen materials, may be laid out on a table and brushed all over; but in general, even in woollen fabrics, the lightness of the tissues renders brushing unsuitable to dresses, and it is better to remove the dust from the folds by beating them lightly with a handkerchief or thin cloth. Silk dresses should never be brushed, but rubbed with a piece of merino, or other soft material, of a similar colour, kept for the purpose. Summer dresses of barège, muslin, mohair, and other light materials, simply require shaking; but if the muslin be tumbled, it must be ironed afterwards. If the dresses require slight repair, it should be done at once: "a stitch in time saves nine."

2244. The bonnet should be dusted with a light feather plume, in
order to remove every particle of dust; but this has probably
been done, as it ought to have been, the night before. Velvet
bonnets, and other velvet articles of dress, should be cleaned
with a soft brush. If the flowers with which the bonnet is
decorated have been crushed or displaced, or the leaves tumbled,
they should be raised and readjusted by means of flower-pliers.
If feathers have suffered from damp, they should be held near
the fire for a few minutes, and restored to their natural state
by the hand or a soft brush.

2245. _The Chausserie_, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the
few things left to mark her station, and requires special care.
Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush, or
wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud
wiped off with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its
softness and polish. The following is also an excellent polish
for applying to ladies' boots, instead of blacking them:--Mix
equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz.
of lamp-black. When all the ingredients are thoroughly
incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the
hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies' blacking,
which may be purchased in 6d, and 1s. bottles, is also very much
used for patent leather and kid boots, particularly when they
are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece
of sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking
is dry und hardened.

2246. These various preliminary offices performed, the lady's-maid should prepare for dressing her mistress, arranging her dressing-room, toilet-table, and linen, according to her mistress's wishes and habits. The details of dressing we need not touch upon,--every lady has her own mode of doing so; but the maid should move about quietly, perform any offices about her mistress's person, as lacing stays, gently, and adjust her linen smoothly.

2247. Having prepared the dressing-room by lighting the fire, sweeping the hearth, and made everything ready for dressing her mistress, placed her linen before the fire to air, and laid out the various articles of dress she is to wear, which will probably have been arranged the previous evening, the lady's-maid is prepared for the morning's duties.

2248. _Hairdressing_ is the most important part of the lady's-maid's office. If ringlets are worn, remove the curl-papers, and, after thoroughly brushing the back hair both above and below, dress it according to the prevailing fashion. If bandeaux are worn, the hair is thoroughly brushed and frizzed outside and inside, folding the hair back round the head, brushing it perfectly smooth, giving it a glossy appearance by the use of pomades, or oil, applied by the palm of the hand, smoothing it down with a small brush dipped in bandoline. Double bandeaux are formed by bringing most of the hair forward, and rolling it over frizettes made of hair the same colour as that of the wearer: it is finished behind by plaiting the hair, and arranging it in such a manner as to look well with the head-dress.

2249. Lessons in hairdressing may be obtained, and at not an unreasonable charge. If a lady's-maid can afford it, we would advise her to initiate herself in the mysteries of hairdressing before entering on her duties. If a mistress finds her maid handy, and willing to learn, she will not mind the expense of a few lessons, which are almost necessary, as the fashion and mode of dressing the hair is so continually changing. Brushes and combs should be kept scrupulously clean, by washing them about twice a week: to do this oftener spoils the brushes, as very frequent washing makes them so very soft.

To wash Brushes.

2250. Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a piece the size of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water into a basin, and, after combing out the hair from the brushes, dip them, bristles downwards, into the water and out again, keeping the backs and handles as free from the water as possible. Repeat this until the bristles look clean; then rinse the brushes in a little cold water; shake them well, and wipe the handles and backs with a towel, _but not the bristles_, and set the brushes to dry in the sun, or near the fire; but take care not to put them too close to it. Wiping the bristles of a brush makes them soft, as does also the use of soap.

To clean Combs.

2251. If it can be avoided, never wash combs, as the water often makes the teeth split, and the tortoiseshell or horn of which they are made, rough. Small brushes, manufactured purposely for cleaning combs, may be purchased at a trifling cost: with this the comb should be well brushed, and afterwards wiped with a cloth or towel.

A good Wash for the Hair.

2252. INGREDIENTS.--1 pennyworth of borax, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1 pint of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil; let it cool; then put the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it with a flannel. Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left to cool, make a very good wash for the hair; as also does rosemary-water mixed with a little borax. After using any of these washes, when the hair becomes thoroughly dry, a little pomatum or oil should be rubbed in, to make it smooth and glossy.

To make Pomade for the Hair.

2253. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of lard, 2 pennyworth of castor-oil; scent.

_Mode_.--Let the lard be unsalted; beat it up well; then add the castor-oil, and mix thoroughly together with a knife, adding a few drops of any scent that may be preferred. Put the pomatum into pots, which keep well covered to prevent it turning rancid.

Another Recipe for Pomatum.

2254. INGREDIENTS.--8 oz. of olive-oil, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 3 pennyworth of essential oil of almonds, 3 pennyworth of essence of lemon.

_Mode_.--Mix these ingredients together, and store away in jars for use.

To make Bandoline.

2555. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of gum-tragacanth, 1/4 pint of cold water, 3 pennyworth of essence of almonds, 2 teaspoonfuls of old rum.

_Mode_.--Put the gum-tragacanth into a wide-mouthed bottle with the cold water; let it stand till dissolved, then stir into it the essence of almonds; let it remain for an hour or two, when pour the rum on the top. This should make the stock bottle, and when any is required for use, it is merely necessary to dilute it with a little cold water until the desired consistency is obtained, and to keep it in a small bottle, well corked, for use. This bandoline, instead of injuring the hair, as many other kinds often do, improves it, by increasing its growth, and making it always smooth and glossy.

An excellent Pomatum.

2256. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of lard, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1/2 pint of castor-oil, 4 oz. of spermaceti, bergamot, or any other scent; elder-flower water.

_Mode_.--Wash the lard well in the elder-flower water; drain, and beat it to a cream. Mix the two oils together, and heat them sufficiently to dissolve the spermaceti, which should be beaten fine in a mortar. Mix all these ingredients together with the brandy and whatever kind of scent may be preferred; and whilst warm pour into glass bottles for use, keeping them well corked. The best way to liquefy the pomatum is to set the bottle in a saucepan of warm water. It will remain good for many months.

To promote the Growth of Hair.

2257. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of olive-oil and spirit of rosemary; a few drops of oil of nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Mix the ingredients together, rub the roots of the hair every night with a little of this liniment, and the growth of it will very soon sensibly increase.

2258. Our further remarks on dressing must be confined to some
general advice. In putting on a band, see that it is laid quite
flat, and is drawn tightly round the waist before it is pinned
in front; that the pin is a strong one, and that it is secured
to the stays, so as not to slip up or down, or crease in the
folds. Arrange the folds of the dress over the crinoline
petticoats; if the dress fastens behind, put a small pin in the
slit to prevent it from opening. See that the sleeves fall well
over the arms. If it is finished with a jacket, or other upper
dress, see that it fits smoothly under the arms; pull out the
flounces, and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with the
hands, so that it falls in graceful folds. In arranging the
petticoat itself, a careful lady's-maid will see that this is
firmly fastened round the waist.

2259. Where sashes are worn, pin the bows securely on the inside
with a pin, so as not to be visible; then raise the bow with the
fingers. The collar is arranged and carefully adjusted with
brooch or bow in the centre.

2260. Having dressed her mistress for breakfast, and breakfasted herself, the further duties of the lady's-maid will depend altogether upon the habits of the family, in which hardly two will probably agree. Where the duties are entirely confined to attendance on her mistress, it is probable that the bedroom and dressing-room will be committed to her care; that, the housemaid will rarely enter, except for the weekly or other periodical cleaning; she will, therefore, have to make her mistress's bed, and keep it in order; and as her duties are light and easy, there can be no allowance made for the slightest approach to uncleanliness or want of order. Every morning, immediately after her mistress has left it, and while breakfast is on, she should throw the bed open, by taking off the clothes; open the windows (except in rainy weather), and leave the room to air for half an hour. After breakfast, except her attendance on her mistress prevents it, if the rooms are carpeted, she should sweep them carefully, having previously strewed the room with moist tea-leaves, dusting every table and chair, taking care to penetrate to every corner, and moving every article of furniture that is portable. This done satisfactorily, and having cleaned the dressing-glass, polished up the furniture and the ornaments, and made the glass jug and basin clean and bright, emptied all slops, emptied the water-jugs and filled them with fresh water, and arranged the rooms, the dressing-room is ready for the mistress when she thinks proper to appear.

2261. The dressing-room thoroughly in order, the same thing is to be done in the bedroom, in which she will probably be assisted by the housemaid to make the bed and empty the slops. In making the bed, she will study her lady's wishes, whether it is to be hard or soft, sloping or straight, and see that it is done accordingly.

2262. Having swept the bedroom with equal care, dusted the tables and chairs, chimney-ornaments, and put away all articles of dress left from yesterday, and cleaned and put away any articles of jewellery, her next care is to see, before her mistress goes out, what requires replacing in her department, and furnish her with a list of them, that she may use her discretion about ordering them. All this done, she may settle herself down to any work on which she is engaged. This will consist chiefly in mending; which is first to be seen to; everything, except stockings, being mended before washing. Plain work will probably be one of the lady's-maid's chief employments.

2263. A waiting-maid, who wishes to make herself useful, will
study the fashion-books with attention, so as to be able to aid
her mistress's judgment in dressing, according to the prevailing
fashion, with such modifications as her style of countenance
requires. She will also, if she has her mistress's interest at
heart, employ her spare time in repairing and making up dresses
which have served one purpose, to serve another also, or turning
many things, unfitted for her mistress to use, for the younger
branches of the family. The lady's-maid may thus render herself
invaluable to her mistress, and increase her own happiness in so
doing. The exigencies of fashion and luxury are such, that all
ladies, except those of the very highest rank, will consider
themselves fortunate in having about them a thoughtful person,
capable of diverting their finery to a useful purpose.

2264. Among other duties, the lady's-maid should understand the various processes for washing, and cleaning, and repairing laces; edging of collars; removing stains and grease-spots from dresses, and similar processes, for which the following recipes will be found very useful. In washing--

2265. _Blonde_, fine toilet-soap is used; the blonde is soaped
over very slightly, and washed in water in which a little
fig-blue is dissolved, rubbing it very gently; when clean, dry
it. Dip it afterwards in very thin gum-water, dry it again in
linen, spread it out as flat as it will lie, and iron it. Where
the blonde is of better quality, and wider, it may be stretched
on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water, applying the
gum with a sponge; or it may be washed finally in water in which
a lump of sugar has been dissolved, which gives it more the
appearance of new blonde.

2266. Lace collars soil very quickly when in contact with the
neck; they are cleaned by beating the edge of the collar between
the folds of a fine linen cloth, then washing the edges as
directed above, and spreading it out on an ironing-board,
pinning it at each corner with fine pins; then going carefully
over it with a sponge charged with water in which some
gum-dragon and fig-blue have been dissolved, to give it a proper
consistence. To give the collar the same tint throughout, the
whole collar should be sponged with the same water, taking care
not to touch the flowers.

2267. A multiplicity of accidents occur to soil and spot dresses, which should be removed at once. To remove--

2268. _Grease-spots_ from cotton or woollen materials of fast
colours, absorbent pastes, purified bullock's-blood, and even
common soap, are used, applied to the spot when dry. When the
colours are not fast, use fuller's-earth or pulverized
potter's-clay, laid in a layer over the spot, and press it with
a very hot iron.

2269. For Silks, Moires, and plain or brocaded Satins, begin by
pouring over the spot two drops of rectified spirits of wine;
cover it over with a linen cloth, and press it with a hot iron,
changing the linen instantly. The spot will look tarnished, for
a portion of the grease still remains: this will be removed
entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped on the spot, and a
very little rubbing. If neatly done, no perceptible mark or
circle will remain; nor will the lustre of the richest silk be
changed, the union of the two liquids operating with no
injurious effects from rubbing.

2270. _Fruit-spots_ are removed from white and fast-coloured
cottons by the use of chloride of soda. Commence by cold-soaping
the article, then touch the spot with a hair-pencil or feather
dipped in the chloride, dipping it immediately into cold water,
to prevent the texture of the article being injured.

2271. _Ink-spots_ are removed, when fresh applied to the spot,
by a few drops of hot water being poured on immediately
afterwards. By the same process, iron-mould in linen or calico
may be removed, dipping immediately in cold water to prevent
injury to the fabric.

2272. _Wax_ dropped on a shawl, table-cover, or cloth dress, is
easily discharged by applying spirits of wine.

2273. _Syrups or Preserved Fruits_, by washing in lukewarm water
with a dry cloth, and pressing the spot between two folds of
clean linen.

2274. _Essence of Lemon_ will remove grease, but will make a
spot itself in a few days.

To clean Silk or Ribbons.

2275. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of gin, 1/2 lb. of honey, 1/2 lb. of soft soap, 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Mix the above ingredients together; then lay each breadth of silk upon a clean kitchen table or dresser, and scrub it well on the soiled side with the mixture. Have ready three vessels of cold water; take each piece of silk at two corners, and dip it up and down in each vessel, but do not wring it; and take care that each breadth has one vessel of quite clean water for the last dip. Hang it up dripping for a minute or two, then dab it in a cloth, and iron it quickly with a very hot iron.

To remove Paint-spots from Silk Cloth.

2276. If the fabric will bear it, sharp rubbing will frequently entirely discharge a newly-made paint-stain; but, if this is not successful, apply spirit of turpentine with a quill till the stains disappear.

To make old Crape look nearly equal to new.

2277. Place a little water in a teakettle, and let it boil until there is plenty of steam from the spout; then, holding the crape in both hands, pass it to and fro several times through the steam, and it will to clean and look nearly equal to new.

2278. Linen.--Before sending linen to wash, the lady's-maid should see that everything under her charge is properly mended; for her own sake she should take care that it is sent out in an orderly manner, each class of garments by themselves, with a proper list, of which she retains a copy. On its return, it is still more necessary to examine every piece separately, so that all missing buttons be supplied, and only the articles properly washed and in perfect repair passed into the wardrobe.

2279. Ladies who keep a waiting-maid for their own persons are in the habit of paying visits to their friends, in which it is not unusual for the maid to accompany them; at all events, it is her duty to pack the trunks; and this requires not only knowledge but some practice, although the improved trunks and portmanteaus now made, in which there is a place for nearly everything, render this more simple than formerly. Before packing, let the trunks be thoroughly well cleaned, and, if necessary, lined with paper, and everything intended for packing laid out on the bed or chairs, so that it may be seen what is to be stowed away; the nicer articles of dress neatly folded in clean calico wrappers. Having satisfied herself that everything wanted is laid out, and that it is in perfect order, the packing is commenced by disposing of the most bulky articles, the dressing-case and work-box, skirts, and other articles requiring room, leaving the smaller articles to fill up; finally, having satisfied herself that all is included, she should lock and cover up the trunk in its canvas case, and then pack her own box, if she is to accompany her mistress.

2280. On reaching the house, the lady's-maid will be shown her lady's apartment; and her duties here are what they were at home; she will arrange her mistress's things, and learn which is her bell, in order to go to her when she rings. Her meals will be taken in the housekeeper's room; and here she must be discreet and guarded in her talk to any one of her mistress or her concerns. Her only occupation here will be attending in her lady's room, keeping her things in order, and making her rooms comfortable for her.

2281. The evening duties of a lady's-maid are pretty nearly a repetition of those of the morning. She is in attendance when her mistress retires; she assists her to undress if required, brushes her hair, and renders such other assistance as is demanded; removes all slops; takes care that the fire, if any, is safe, before she retires to rest herself.

2282. Ironing is a part of the duties of a lady's-maid, and she should be able to do it in the most perfect manner when it becomes necessary. Ironing is often badly done from inattention to a few very simple requirements. Cleanliness is the first essential: the ironing-board, the fire, the iron, and the ironing-blanket should all be perfectly clean. It will not be necessary here to enter into details on ironing, as full directions are given in the "Duties of the Laundry-maid." A lady's-maid will have a great deal of "Ironing-out" to do; such as light evening dresses, muslin dresses, &c., which are not dirty enough to be washed, but merely require smoothing out to remove the creases. In summer, particularly, an iron will be constantly required, as also a skirt-board, which should be covered with a nice clean piece of flannel. To keep muslin dresses in order, they almost require smoothing out every time they are worn, particularly if made with many flounces. The lady's-maid may often have to perform little services for her mistress which require care; such as restoring the colour to scorched linen, &c. &c. The following recipe is, we believe, a very good one.

To restore Whiteness to scorched Linen.

2283. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of fuller's-earth, 1 oz. of dried fowls' dung, 1/2 oz. of soap, the juice of 2 large onions.

_Mode._--Boil all these ingredients together to the consistency of paste; spread the composition thickly over the damaged part, and if the threads be not actually consumed, after it has been allowed to dry on, and the place has subsequently been washed once or twice, every trace of scorching will disappear.

2284. _Furs, Feathers, and Woollens_ require the constant care
of the waiting-maid. Furs and feathers not in constant use
should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye. From May to
September they are subject to being made the depositary of the
moth-eggs. They should be looked too, and shaken and beaten,
from time to time, in case some of the eggs should have been
lodged in them, in spite of every precaution; laying them up
again, or rather folding them up as before, wrapping them in
brown paper, which is itself a preservative. Shawls and cloaks,
which would be damaged by such close folds, must be looked to,
and aired and beaten, putting them away dry before the evening.

Preservatives against the Ravages of Moths.

2285. Place pieces of camphor, cedar-wood, Russia leather, tobacco-leaves, bog-myrtle, or anything else strongly aromatic, in the drawers or boxes where furs or other things to be preserved from moths are kept, and they will never take harm.

2286. _Jewels_ are generally wrapped up in cotton, and kept in
their cases; but they are subject to tarnish from exposure to
the air, and require cleaning. This is done by preparing clean
soap-suds, using fine toilet-soap. Dip any article of gold,
silver, gilt, or precious stones into this lye, and dry them by
brushing with a brush of soft badgers' hair, or a fine sponge;
afterwards with a piece of fine cloth, and, lastly, with a soft
leather.

2287. _Epaulettes_ of gold or silver, and, in general, all
articles of jewellery, may be dressed by dipping them in spirits
of wine warmed in a _bain marie,_ or shallow kettle, placed over
a slow fire or hot-plate.

2288. The valet and lady's-maid, from their supposed influence with their master and mistress, are exposed to some temptations to which other servants are less subjected. They are probably in communication with the tradespeople who supply articles for the toilet; such as batters, tailors, dressmakers, and perfumers. The conduct of waiting-maid and valet to these people should be civil but independent, making reasonable allowance for want of exact punctuality, if any such can be made: they should represent any inconvenience respectfully, and if an excuse seems unreasonable, put the matter fairly to master or mistress, leaving it to them to notice it further, if they think it necessary. No expectations of a personal character should influence them one way or the other. It would be acting unreasonably to any domestic to make them refuse such presents as tradespeople choose to give them; the utmost that can be expected is that they should not influence their judgment in the articles supplied--that they should represent them truly to master or mistress, without fear and without favour. Civility to all, servility to none, is a good maxim for every one. Deference to a master and mistress, and to their friends and visitors, is one of the implied terms of their engagement; and this deference must apply even to what may be considered their whims. A servant is not to be seated, or wear a hat in the house, in his master's or mistress's presence; nor offer any opinion, unless asked for it; nor even to say "good night," or "good morning," except in reply to that salutation.

To preserve cut Flowers.

2289. A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive for a long time by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh water, in which a little charcoal has been steeped, or a small piece of camphor dissolved. The vase should be set upon a plate or dish, and covered with a bell-glass, around the edges of which, when it comes in contact with the plate, a little water should be poured to exclude the air.

To revive cut Flowers after packing.

2290. Plunge the stems into boiling water, and by the time the water is cold, the flowers will have revived. Then cut afresh the ends of the stems, and keep them in fresh cold water.

UPPER AND UNDER HOUSEMAIDS.

2291. Housemaids, in large establishments, have usually one or more assistants; in this case they are upper and under housemaids. Dividing the work between them, the upper housemaid will probably reserve for herself the task of dusting the ornaments and cleaning the furniture of the principal apartments, but it is her duty to see that every department is properly attended to. The number of assistants depends on the number in the family, as well as on the style in which the establishment is kept up. In wealthy families it is not unusual for every grown-up daughter to have her waiting-maid, whose duty it is to keep her mistress's apartments in order, thus abridging the housemaid's duties. In others, perhaps, one waiting-maid attends on two or three, when the housemaid's assistance will be more requisite. In fact, every establishment has some customs peculiar to itself, on which we need not dwell; the general duties are the _same in all_, perfect cleanliness and order being the object.

DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.

2292. "Cleanliness is next to godliness," saith the proverb, and "order" is in the next degree; the housemaid, then, may be said to be the handmaiden to two of the most prominent virtues. Her duties are very numerous, and many of the comforts of the family depend on their performance; but they are simple and easy to a person naturally clean and orderly, and desirous of giving satisfaction. In all families, whatever the habits of the master and mistress, servants will find it advantageous to rise early; their daily work will thus come easy to them. If they rise late, there is a struggle to overtake it, which throws an air of haste and hurry over the whole establishment. Where the master's time is regulated by early business or professional engagements, this will, of course, regulate the hours of the servants; but even where that is not the case, servants will find great personal convenience in rising early and getting through their work in an orderly and methodical manner. The housemaid who studies her own ease will certainly be at her work by six o'clock in the summer, and, probably, half-past six or seven in the winter months, having spent a reasonable time in her own chamber in dressing. Earlier than this would, probably, be an unnecessary waste of coals and candle in winter.

2293. The first duty of the housemaid in winter is to open the shutters of all the lower rooms in the house, and take up the hearth-rugs of those rooms which she is going to "do" before breakfast. In some families, where there is only a cook and housemaid kept, and where the drawing-rooms are large, the cook has the care of the dining-room, and the housemaid that of the breakfast-room, library, and drawing-rooms. After the shutters are all opened, she sweeps the breakfast-room, sweeping the dust towards the fire-place, of course previously removing the fonder. She should then lay a cloth (generally made of coarse wrappering) over the carpet in front of the stove, and on this should place her housemaid's box, containing black-lead brushes, leathers, emery-paper, cloth, black lead, and all utensils necessary for cleaning a grate, with the cinder-pail on the other side.

2294. She now sweeps up the ashes, and deposits them in her cinder-pail, which is a japanned tin pail, with a wire-sifter inside, and a closely-fitting top. In this pail the cinders are sifted, and reserved for use in the kitchen or under the copper, the ashes only being thrown away. The cinders disposed of, she proceeds to black-lead the grate, producing the black lead, the soft brush for laying it on, her blacking and polishing brushes, from the box which contains her tools. This housemaid's box should be kept well stocked. Having blackened, brushed, and polished every part, and made all clean and bright, she now proceeds to lay the fire. Sometimes it is very difficult to get a proper polish to black grates, particularly if they have been neglected, and allowed to rust at all. Brunswick black, which is an excellent varnish for grates, may be prepared in the following manner:--

2295. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of common asphaltum, 1/2 pint of linseed oil, 1 quart of oil of turpentine.

_Mode._--Melt the asphaltum, and add gradually to it the other two ingredients. Apply this with a small painter's brush, and leave it to become perfectly dry. The grate will need no other cleaning, but will merely require dusting every day, and occasionally brushing with a dry black-lead brush. This is, of course, when no fires are used. When they are required, the bars, cheeks, and back of the grate will need black-leading in the usual manner.

2296. _Fire-lighting,_ however simple, is an operation requiring
some skill; a fire is readily made by laying a few cinders at
the bottom in open order; over this a few pieces of paper, and
over that again eight or ten pieces of dry wood; over the wood,
a course of moderate-sized pieces of coal, taking care to leave
hollow spaces between for air at the centre; and taking care to
lay the whole well back in the grate, so that the smoke may go
up the chimney, and not into the room. This done, fire the paper
with a match from below, and, if properly laid, it will soon
burn up; the stream of flame from the wood and paper soon
communicating to the coals and cinders, provided there is plenty
of air at the centre.

2297. A new method of lighting a fire is sometimes practised
with advantage, the fire lighting from the top and burning down,
in place of being lighted and burning up from below. This is
arranged by laying the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few
good-sized cinders, and the wood at the top, with another layer
of coals and some paper over it; the paper is lighted in the
usual way, and soon burns down to a good fire, with some economy
of fuel, as is said.