Chapter VI: Fruit and Vegetable Soups (1)

[_It will be seen, by reference to the following Recipes, that an entirely original and most intelligible system has been pursued in explaining the preparation of each dish. We would recommend the young housekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of "getting ready" the dinner, or other meal, to follow precisely the order in which the recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on their table all the INGREDIENTS necessary; then the modus operandi, or MODE of preparation, will be easily managed. By a careful reading, too, of the recipes, there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging a repast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will be gained of the TIME the cooling of each dish will occupy, of the periods at which it is SEASONABLE, as also of its_ AVERAGE COST.

_The addition of the natural history, and the description of the various properties of the edible articles in common use in every family, will be serviceable both in a practical and an educational point of view._

_Speaking specially of the Recipes for Soups, it may be added, that by the employment of the_ BEST, MEDIUM, _or_ COMMON STOCK, _the quality of the Soups and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened._]

STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUPS.

RICH STRONG STOCK.

104. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 3/4 lb. of good lean ham; any poultry trimmings; 3 small onions, 3 small carrots, 3 turnips (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest they ferment), 1 head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtainable; 1 tomato, a bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley; 1-1/2 oz. of salt, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, 3 small blades of mace, 4 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Line a delicately clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin broad slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat; cut up the beef and veal in pieces about 3 inches square, and lay them on the ham; set it on the stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When the meat is equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and occasionally add a little cold water, to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite clear; then put in all the other ingredients, and simmer very slowly for 5 hours. Do not let it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not wasted, and that its colour may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve, or tammy, and it will be fit for use.

_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.

MEDIUM STOCK.

105. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, or 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, or 2 lbs. of each; any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat, 1/2 a lb. of lean bacon or ham, 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, each stuck with 3 cloves; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1/2 a leek, 1 head of celery, 2 oz. of salt, 1/2 a teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 large blade of mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, 4 quarts and 1/2 pint of cold water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inches square; rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; put in 1/2 a pint of water, the meat, and all the other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance, add 4 quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for 5 hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. Skim off every particle of grease whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair sieve.

This is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes.

_Time_.--5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per quart.

ECONOMICAL STOCK.

106. INGREDIENTS.--The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled, say 4 quarts; trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, shank-bones, &c., roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish; vegetables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe.

_Mode_.--Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours, taking care to skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use.

_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart.

WHITE STOCK.

(_To be Used in the Preparation of White Soups_.)

107. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, 4 slices of lean ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, 12 white peppercorns, 1 oz. of salt, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. butter, 4 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings of poultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed with the butter. Moisten with 1/2 a pint of water, and simmer till the gravy begins to flow. Then add the 4 quarts of water and the remainder of the ingredients; simmer for 5 hours. After skimming and straining it carefully through a very fine hair sieve, it will be ready for use.

_Time_.--5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per quart.

_Note_.--When stronger stock is desired, double the quantity of veal, or put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled, is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups.

BROWNING FOR STOCK.

108. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of powdered sugar, and 1/2 a pint of water.

_Mode_.--Place the sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until it begins to melt, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes black, then add the water, and let it dissolve. Cork closely, and use a few drops when required.

_Note_.--In France, burnt onions are made use of for the purpose of browning. As a general rule, the process of browning is to be discouraged, as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavour to the stock, and, consequently, all soups made from it.

TO CLARIFY STOCK.

109. INGREDIENTS.--The whites of 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of water, 2 quarts of stock.

_Mode_.--Supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear, and that its quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of 2 eggs, carefully separated from their yolks, whisk them well together with the water, and add gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock, still whisking. Place the soup on the fire, and when boiling and well skimmed, whisk the eggs with it till nearly boiling again; then draw it from the fire, and let it settle, until the whites of the eggs become separated. Pass through a fine cloth, and the soup should be clear.

_Note_.--The rule is, that all clear soups should be of a light straw colour, and should not savour too strongly of the meat; and that all white or brown thick soups should have no more consistency than will enable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot. All _purées_ should be somewhat thicker.

ALMOND SOUP.

110. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of lean beef or veal, 1/2 a scrag of mutton, 1 oz. of vermicelli, 4 blades of mace, 6 cloves, 1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick cream, rather more than 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Boil the beef, or veal, and the mutton, gently in water that will cover them, till the gravy is very strong, and the meat very tender; then strain off the gravy, and set it on the fire with the specified quantities of vermicelli, mace, and cloves, to 2 quarts. Let it boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready the almonds, blanched and pounded very fine; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard; mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest the latter should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keep adding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughly mixed together. Let the soup be cool when mixing, and do it perfectly smooth. Strain it through a sieve, set it on the fire, stir frequently, and serve hot. Just before taking it up, add the cream.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 2s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

THE ALMOND-TREE.--This tree is indigenous to the northern parts
of Asia and Africa, but it is now cultivated in Europe,
especially in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It flowers
in spring, and produces its fruit in August. Although there are
two kinds of almonds, the _sweet_ and the _bitter,_ they are
considered as only varieties of the same species. The best sweet
almonds brought to England, are called the Syrian or Jordan, and
come from Malaga; the inferior qualities are brought from
Valentia and Italy. _Bitter_ almonds come principally from
Magadore. Anciently, the almond was much esteemed by the nations
of the East. Jacob included it among the presents which he
designed for Joseph. The Greeks called it the Greek or Thasian
nut, and the Romans believed that by eating half a dozen of
them, they were secured against drunkenness, however deeply they
might imbibe. Almonds, however, are considered as very
indigestible. The _bitter_ contain, too, principles which
produce two violent poisons,--prussic acid and a kind of
volatile oil. It is consequently dangerous to eat them in large
quantities. Almonds pounded together with a little sugar and
water, however, produce a milk similar to that which is yielded
by animals. Their oil is used for making fine soap, and their
cake as a cosmetic.

APPLE SOUP.

111. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of good boiling apples, 3/4 teaspoonful of white pepper, 6 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of medium stock.

_Mode_.--Peel and quarter the apples, taking out their cores; put them into the stock, stew them gently till tender. Rub the whole through a strainer, add the seasoning, give it one boil up, and serve.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s.

_Seasonable_ from September to December.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

THE APPLE.--This useful fruit is mentioned in Holy Writ; and
Homer describes it as valuable in his time. It was brought from
the East by the Romans, who held it in the highest estimation.
Indeed, some of the citizens of the "Eternal city" distinguished
certain favourite apples by their names. Thus the Manlians were
called after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and the
Appians after Appius. Others were designated after the country
whence they were brought; as the Sidonians, the Epirotes, and
the Greeks. The best varieties are natives of Asia, and have, by
grafting them upon others, been introduced into Europe. The
crab, found in our hedges, is the only variety indigenous to
Britain; therefore, for the introduction of other kinds we are,
no doubt, indebted to the Romans. In the time of the Saxon
heptarchy, both Devon and Somerset were distinguished as _the
apple country_; and there are still existing in Herefordshire
some trees said to have been planted in the time of William the
Conqueror. From that time to this, the varieties of this
precious fruit have gone on increasing, and are now said to
number upwards of 1,500. It is peculiar to the temperate zone,
being found neither in Lapland, nor within the tropics. The best
baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the best for
autumn are the rennets and pearmains; and the best for winter
and spring are russets. The best table, or eating apples, are
the Margarets for early use; the Kentish codlin and summer
pearmain for summer; and for autumn, winter, or spring, the
Dowton, golden and other pippins, as the ribstone, with small
russets. As a food, the apple cannot be considered to rank high,
as more than the half of it consists of water, and the rest of
its properties are not the most nourishing. It is, however, a
useful adjunct to other kinds of food, and, when cooked, is
esteemed as slightly laxative.

ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) SOUP.

(_A White Soup_.)

112. INGREDIENTS.--3 slices of lean bacon or ham, 1/2 a head of celery, 1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of boiling milk, or 1/2 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2 lumps of sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of white stock.

_Mode_.--Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into thin slices, into the stewpan with the butter. Braise these for 1/4 of an hour, keeping them well stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and after cutting them into thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to the other ingredients. When these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp, put in the remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding the seasoning, and when it has simmered for five minutes, pass it through a strainer. Now pour it back into the stewpan, let it again simmer five minutes, taking care to skim it well, and stir it to the boiling milk or cream. Serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 2d.

_Seasonable_ from June to October.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

ASPARAGUS SOUP.

I.

113. INGREDIENTS.--5 lbs. of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, 1/2 pint of pale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 cabbage lettuce, a little mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of asparagus-tops cut small, the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Put the beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into a stewpan, with the bacon at the bottom; cover it close, and set it on a slow fire, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn. Put in the water and ale, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it stew gently for 2 hours; then strain the liquor, and take off the fat, and add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, and sweet marjoram, pounded. Let these boil up in the liquor, then put in the asparagus-tops cut small, and allow them to boil till all is tender. Serve hot, with the French roll in the dish.

_Time_.--Altogether 3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 9d.

_Seasonable_ from May to August.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

II.

114. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of split peas, a teacupful of gravy, 4 young onions, 1 lettuce cut small, 1/2 a head of celery, 1/2 a pint of asparagus cut small, 1/2 a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water: colour the soup with spinach juice.

_Mode_.--Boil the peas, and rub them through a sieve; add the gravy, and then stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce, and asparagus, with the water. After this, stew altogether, and add the colouring and cream, and serve.

_Time_.--Peas 2-1/2 hours, vegetables 1 hour; altogether 4 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s.

ASPARAGUS.--The ancients called all the sprouts of young
vegetables asparagus, whence the name, which is now limited to a
particular species, embracing artichoke, alisander, asparagus,
cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. They are originally mostly wild
seacoast plants; and, in this state, asparagus may still be
found on the northern as well as southern shores of Britain. It
is often vulgarly called, in London, _sparrowgrass_; and, in
it's cultivated form, hardly bears any resemblance to the
original plant. Immense quantities of it are raised for the
London market, at Mortlake and Deptford; but it belongs rather
to the classes of luxurious than necessary food. It is light and
easily digested, but is not very nutritious.

BAKED SOUP.

115. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of any kind of meat, any trimmings or odd pieces; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepper and salt to taste, 4 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat and vegetables in slices, add to them the rice and peas, season with pepper and salt. Put the whole in a jar, fill up with the water, cover very closely, and bake for 4 hours.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.

_Note_.--This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and will be convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than boiling.

BARLEY SOUP.

116. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, a large bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Put in all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 3 hours.

_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter.

BARLEY.--This, in the order of cereal grasses, is, in Britain,
the next plant to wheat in point of value, and exhibits several
species and varieties. From what country it comes originally, is
not known, but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of
antiquity, as the Egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it
in the ear, in the time of Moses. It was a favourite grain with
the Athenians, but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the
Romans. Notwithstanding this, however, it was much used by them,
as it was in former times by the English, and still is, in the
Border counties, in Cornwall, and also in Wales. In other parts
of England, it is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less
nutritive than wheat; and in 100 parts, has of starch 79, gluten
6, saccharine matter 7, husk 8. It is, however, a lighter and
less stimulating food than wheat, which renders a decoction of
it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak.

BREAD SOUP.

(_Economical_.)

117. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of bread crusts, 2 oz. butter, 1 quart of common stock.

_Mode_.--Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter; beat the whole with a spoon, and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are well mixed. Season with a little salt.

_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 4d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Note_.--This is a cheap recipe, and will be found useful where extreme economy is an object.

BREAD.--The origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of
distant ages. The Greeks attributed its invention to Pan; but
before they, themselves, had an existence, it was, no doubt, in
use among the primitive nations of mankind. The Chaldeans and
the Egyptians were acquainted with it, and Sarah, the companion
of Abraham, mixed flour and water together, kneaded it, and
covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures inform us
that leavened bread was known to the Israelites, but it is not
known when the art of fermenting it was discovered. It is said
that the Romans learnt it during their wars with Perseus, king
of Macedon, and that it was introduced to the "imperial city"
about 200 years before the birth of Christ. With them it no
doubt found its way into Britain; but after their departure from
the island, it probably ceased to be used. We know that King
Alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the neatherd's
cottage; and that, even in the sixteenth century, unfermented
cakes, kneaded by the women, were the only kind of bread known
to the inhabitants of Norway and Sweden. The Italians of this
day consume the greater portion of their flour in the form of
_polenta_, or soft pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni; and, in
the remoter districts of Scotland, much unfermented bread is
still used. We give a cut of the _quern_ grinding-mill, which,
towards the end of the last century, was in use in that country,
and which is thus described by Dr. Johnson in his "Journey to
the Hebrides:"--"It consists of two stones about a foot and half
in diameter; the lower is a little convex, to which the
concavity of the upper must be fitted. In the middle of the
upper stone is a round hole, and on one side is a long handle.
The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one
hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn slides
down the convexity of the lower stone, and by the motion of the
upper, is ground in its passage." Such a primitive piece of
machinery, it may safely be said, has entirely disappeared from
this country.--In other parts of this work, we shall have
opportunities of speaking of bread and bread-making, which, from
its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind, has
emphatically been called the "staff of life." The necessity,
therefore, of having it both pure and good is of the first
importance.

CABBAGE SOUP.

118. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slices of lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Scald the cabbage, exit it up and drain it. Line the stewpan with the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten with skimmings from the stock, and simmer very gently, till the cabbage is tender; add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and carefully skim off every particle of fat. Season and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

THE CABBAGE.--It is remarkable, that although there is no
country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits
and vegetables than Great Britain, yet the greater number of
these had no existence in it before the time of Henry VIII.
Anderson, writing under the date of 1548, says, "The English
cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two
centuries. At the commencement of the reign, of Henry VIII.
neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any
other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of
the kingdom; they came from Holland and Flanders." The original
of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant _sea-colewort_, which
is to be found _wasting_ whatever sweetness it may have on the
desert air, on many of the cliffs of the south coast of England.
In this state, it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce, yet,
in a cultivated state, to what dimensions can it be made to
grow! However greatly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among
the moderns, by the ancients they were held in yet higher
estimation. The Egyptians adored and raised altars to them, and
the Greeks and Romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues
to them. Cato affirmed, that the cabbage cured all diseases, and
declared, that it was to its use that the Romans were enabled to
live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600
years. It was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul, and,
no doubt, Britain; although, in this last, it may have been
suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries. The whole
tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive, and forms a
valuable adjunct to animal food.

SOUP A LA CANTATRICE.

(_An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the Voice_.)

119. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of sago, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked), 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it be gradually added to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for 1/2 an hour, when it should be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to them the boiling cream; stir these quickly in the soup, and serve immediately. Do not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle.

_Time_.--40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat. In various quantities, and in different preparations, these have been partaken of by the principal singers of the day, including the celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have always avowed, with considerable advantage to the voice, in singing.

CARROT SOUP.

I.

120. INGREDIENTS.--4 quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled, a few beef-bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions, 1 turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste; cayenne.

_Mode_.--Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt, into a stewpan, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut the carrots thin, strain the soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth; then boil the pulp with the soup, which should be of the consistency of pea-soup. Add cayenne. Pulp only the red part of the carrot, and make this soup the day before it is wanted.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1-1/2d.

_Seasonable_ from October to March.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

II.

121. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of butter, seasoning to taste of salt and cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup.

_Mode_.--Scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots, wash, and wipe them dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices. Put the butter into a large stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. of the sliced carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning. Add to them the soup, and allow them to simmer till tender,--say for nearly an hour. Press them through a strainer with the soup, and add salt and cayenne if required. Boil the whole gently for 5 minutes, skim well, and serve as hot as possible.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 1d.

THE CARROT.--There is a wild carrot which grows in England; but
it is white and small, and not much esteemed. The garden carrot
in general use, was introduced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
and was, at first, so highly esteemed, that the ladies wore
leaves of it in their head-dresses. It is of great value in the
culinary art, especially for soups and stews. It can be used
also for beer instead of malt, and, in distillation, it yields a
large quantity of spirit. The carrot is proportionably valuable
as it has more of the red than the yellow part. There is a large
red variety much used by the farmers for colouring butter. As a
garden vegetable, it is what is called the orange-carrot that is
usually cultivated. As a fattening food for cattle, it is
excellent; but for man it is indigestible, on account of its
fibrous matter. Of 1,000 parts, 95 consist of sugar, and 3 of
starch.--The accompanying cut represents a pretty winter
ornament, obtained by placing a cut from the top of the
carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water, when the young leaves
spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness.

CELERY SOUP.

122. INGREDIENTS.--9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful of salt, nutmeg to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 1/2 pint of strong stock, a pint of cream, and 2 quarts of boiling water.

_Mode_.--Cut the celery into small pieces; throw it into the water, seasoned with the nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficiently tender; pass it through a sieve, add the stock, and simmer it for half an hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to the boiling point, and serve immediately.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--This soup can be made brown, instead of white, by omitting the cream, and colouring it a little. When celery cannot be procured, half a drachm of the seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour to the soup, if put in a quarter of an hour before it is done. A little of the essence of celery will answer the same purpose.

CELERY.--This plant is indigenous to Britain, and, in its wild
state, grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the
seacoast. In this state it is called _smallaqe_, and, to some
extent, is a dangerous narcotic. By cultivation, however, it has
been brought to the fine flavour which the garden plant
possesses. In the vicinity of Manchester it is raised to an
enormous size. When our natural observation is assisted by the
accurate results ascertained by the light of science, how
infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the
products of nature! To know, for example, that the endless
variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by
the rays of the sun, is to know a truism sublime by its very
comprehensiveness. The cause of the whiteness of celery is
nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation, and in
order that this effect may be produced, the plant is almost
wholly covered with earth; the tops of the leaves alone being
suffered to appear above the ground.

CHANTILLY SOUP.

123. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch of parsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Boil the peas till quite tender, with the parsley and onions; then rub them through a sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not let it boil after the peas are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve very hot.

_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average_ cost, 1s. 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added to them, make a very good soup in haste.

Parsley.--Among the Greeks, in the classic ages, a crown of
parsley was awarded, both in the Nemaean and Isthmian games, and
the voluptuous Anacreon pronounces this beautiful herb the
emblem of joy and festivity. It has an elegant leaf, and is
extensively used in the culinary art. When it was introduced to
Britain is not known. There are several varieties,--the
_plain_-leaved and the _curled_-leaved, _celery_-parsley,
_Hamburg_ parsley, and _purslane_. The curled is the best, and,
from the form of its leaf, has a beautiful appearance on a dish
as a garnish. Its flavour is, to many, very agreeable in soups;
and although to rabbits, hares, and sheep it is a luxury, to
parrots it is a poison. The celery-parsley is used as a celery,
and the Hamburg is cultivated only for its roots, which are used
as parsnips or carrots, to eat with meat. The purslane is a
native of South America, and is not now much in use.

CHESTNUT (SPANISH) SOUP.

124. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of Spanish chestnuts, 1/4 pint of cream; seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Take the outer rind from the chestnuts, and put them into a large pan of warm water. As soon as this becomes too hot for the fingers to remain in it, take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and immerse them in cold water, and wipe and weigh them. Now cover them with good stock, and stew them gently for rather more than 3/4 of an hour, or until they break when touched with a fork; then drain, pound, and rub them through a fine sieve reversed; add sufficient stock, mace, cayenne, and salt, and stir it often until it boils, and put in the cream. The stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, when its sweetness is not objected to, or it may, in part, be added to it; and the rule is, that 3/4 lb. of chestnuts should be given to each quart of soup.

_Time_.--rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

THE CHESTNUT.--This fruit is said, by some, to have originally
come from Sardis, in Lydia; and by others, from Castanea, a city
of Thessaly, from which it takes its name. By the ancients it
was much used as a food, and is still common in France and
Italy, to which countries it is, by some, considered indigenous.
In the southern part of the European continent, it is eaten both
raw and roasted. The tree was introduced into Britain by the
Romans; but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the
island, the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in Scotland. It
attains a great age, as well as an immense size. As a food, it
is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and,
therefore, the easiest of digestion. The tree called the _horse
chestnut_ is very different, although its fruit very much
resembles that of the other. Its "nuts," though eaten by horses
and some other animals, are unsuitable for human food.

COCOA-NUT SOUP.

125. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. of rice flour, 1/2 a teaspoonful of mace; seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt; 1/4 of a pint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut, and grate it down small on a clean grater; weigh it, and allow, for each quart of stock, 2 oz. of the cocoa-nut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock, which should then be strained closely from it, and thickened for table.

_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 3d.

_Seasonable_ in Autumn.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

THE COCOA-NUT.--This is the fruit of one of the palms, than
which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree
marking, in itself, so abundantly the goodness of Providence, in
making provision for the wants of man. It grows wild in the
Indian seas, and in the eastern parts of Asia; and thence it has
been introduced into every part of the tropical regions. To the
natives of those climates, its bark supplies the material for
creating their dwellings; its leaves, the means of roofing them;
and the leaf-stalks, a kind of gauze for covering their windows,
or protecting the baby in the cradle. It is also made into
lanterns, masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun,
baskets, wicker-work, and even a kind of paper for writing on.
Combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting, and sailcloth are made
of its fibers. With these, too, beds are made and cushions
stuffed. Oars are supplied by the leaves; drinking-cups, spoons,
and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts; milk by
its juice, of which, also, a kind of honey and sugar are
prepared. When fermented, it furnishes the means of
intoxication; and when the fibres are burned, their ashes supply
an alkali for making soap. The buds of the tree bear a striking
resemblance to cabbage when boiled; but when they are cropped,
the tree dies. In a fresh state, the kernel is eaten raw, and
its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage. When the
nut is imported to this country, its fruit is, in general,
comparatively dry, and is considered indigestible. The tree is
one of the least productive of the palm tribe.

SOUP A LA CRECY.

126. INGREDIENTS.--4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, and chervil; 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls, half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan, and let them simmer 5 minutes; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and stew gently for half an hour. Now fill it up with the remainder of the stock, let it boil another hour, and put in the crumb of the rolls. When well soaked, rub all through a tammy. Have ready the rice boiled; pour the soup over this, and serve.

_Time_.--1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_,1s. 2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

THE LENTIL.--This belongs to the legumious or _pulse_ kind of
vegetables, which rank next to the corn plants in their
nutritive properties. The lentil is a variety of the bean tribe,
but in England is not used as human food, although considered
the best of all kinds for pigeons. On the Continent it is
cultivated for soups, as well as for other preparations for the
table; and among the presents which David received from Shobi,
as recounted in the Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched
pulse. Among the Egyptians it was extensively used, and among
the Greeks, the Stoics had a maxim, which declared, that "a wise
man acts always with reason, and prepares his own lentils."
Among the Romans it was not much esteemed, and from them the
English may have inherited a prejudice against it, on account,
it is said, of its rendering men indolent. It takes its name
from _lentus_ 'slow,' and, according to Pliny, produces mildness
and moderation of temper.

CUCUMBER SOUP (French Recipe).

127. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Pare the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds; cut it in thin slices, put these on a plate with a little salt, to draw the water from them; drain, and put them in your stewpan, with the butter. When they are warmed through, without being browned, pour the stock on them. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil for 40 minutes. Mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream, which add at the moment of serving.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from June to September.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

THE CUCUMBER.--The antiquity of this fruit is very great. In the
sacred writings we find that the people of Israel regretted it,
whilst sojourning in the desert; and at the present time, the
cucumber, and other fruits of its class, form a large portion of
the food of the Egyptian people. By the Eastern nations
generally, as well as by the Greeks and Romans, it was greatly
esteemed. Like the melon, it was originally brought from Asia by
the Romans, and in the 14th century it was common in England,
although, in the time of the wars of "the Roses," it seems no
longer to have been cultivated. It is a cold food, and of
difficult digestion when eaten raw. As a preserved sweetmeat,
however, it is esteemed one of the most agreeable.

EGG SOUP.

128. INGREDIENTS.--A tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, 2 small blades of finely-pounded mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock, and put in the eggs; throw them into boiling stock, stirring all the time. Simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Season and serve with a French roll in the tureen, or fried sippets of bread.

_Time_. 1/2 an hour. _Average cost_,11d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

SOUP A LA FLAMANDE (Flemish).

I.

129. INGREDIENTS.--1 turnip, 1 small carrot, 1/2 head of celery, 6 green onions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, 1/4 pint of asparagus cut small, 1/4 pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour with a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix with the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take the soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c. to it, and keep stirring it well. Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs will curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar.

_Time_.--24 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from May to August.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

CHERVIL.--Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its
leaves are tender, and are used in salads. In antiquity it made
a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It is
a native of various parts of Europe; and the species cultivated
in the gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves.

II.

130. INGREDIENTS.--5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized potatoes, 3 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with the butter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then fill up the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are done, which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and add the cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream is put in.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. __Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to May.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--This soup can be made with water instead of stock.

SOUP A LA JULIENNE.

131. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint of onions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1-1/4 inch long, and be particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into larger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boiling to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables, and herbs, and stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.--In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c. can be added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the stock.

SORREL.--This is one of the _spinaceous_ plants, which take
their name from spinach, which is the chief among them. It is
little used in English cookery, but a great deal in French, in
which it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English
meadows it is usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it
is cultivated, its flavour is greatly improved.

KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).

132. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, but form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

LEEK SOUP.

I.

133. INGREDIENTS.--A sheep's head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cut small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken.

_Mode_.--Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin very nicely; split it in two; take out the brains, and put it into boiling water; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4 hours. Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will make the soup tolerably thick; pour it into the soup; continue stirring till the whole is blended and well done, and serve.

_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

II.

COMMONLY CALLED COCK-A-LEEKIE.

134. INGREDIENTS.--A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old cock, from which the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be trussed as for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling water for a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads, and cut them into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the stock, with, at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer gently. In half an hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hours longer. It should be carefully skimmed, and can be seasoned to taste. In serving, take out the fowl, and carve it neatly, placing the pieces in a tureen, and pouring over them the soup, which should be very thick of leeks (a _purée_ of leeks the French would call it).

_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart; or, with stock No. 106, 1s.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.--Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely called leek soup, is very good, and also economical. Cock-a-leekie was largely consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, in 1859.

THE LEEK.--As in the case of the cucumber, this vegetable was
bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert.
It is one of the alliaceous tribe, which consists of the onion,
garlic, chive, shallot, and leek. These, as articles of food,
are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than
any other _genus_ of edible plants. It is the national badge of
the Welsh, and tradition ascribes to St. David its introduction
to that part of Britain. The origin of the wearing of the leek
on St. David's day, among that people, is thus given in
"BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"--"It probably
originated from the custom of _Cymhortha_, or the friendly aid,
practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all
the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when
they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such
time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks
with him for making the broth or soup." (_See_ ST. DAVID.)
Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of
Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper
than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to
that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to
prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled.

MACARONI SOUP.

135. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a pinch of salt, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. When it is tender, drain and cut it into thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock. Stew gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

MACARONI.--This is the favourite food of Italy, where,
especially among the Neapolitans, it may be regarded as the
staff of life. "The crowd of London," says Mr. Forsyth, "is a
double line in quick motion; it is the crowd of business. The
crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down,
and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies of men. You are
stopped by a carpenter's bench, you are lost among shoemakers'
stalls, and you dash among the _pots of a macaroni stall_." This
article of food is nothing more than a thick paste, made of the
best wheaten flour, with a small quantity of water. When it has
been well worked, it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel,
pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom.
Through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw
bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the
cylinder. Whilst issuing from the holes, it is partially baked
by a fire placed below the cylinder, and is, at the same time,
drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room, in order to
dry. In a few days it is fit for use. As it is both wholesome
and nutritious, it ought to be much more used by all classes in
England than it is. It generally accompanies Parmesan cheese to
the tables of the rich, but is also used for thickening soups
and making puddings.

SOUP MAIGRE (i.e. without Meat).

136. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. butter, 6 onions sliced, 4 heads of celery, 2 lettuces, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces of bread-crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Melt the butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions to stew gently for 3 or 4 minutes; then add the celery, spinach, lettuces, and parsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. Now put in the water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil gently for 1-1/2 hour, and, at the moment of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar, but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

THE LETTUCE.--This is one of the acetarious vegetables, which
comprise a large class, chiefly used as pickles, salads, and
other condiments. The lettuce has in all antiquity been
distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant. It was, without
preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the Paschal lamb; the
Greeks delighted in it, and the Romans, in the time of Domitian,
had it prepared with eggs, and served in the first course at
their tables, merely to excite their appetites. Its botanical
name is _Lactuca_, so called from the milky juice it exudes when
its stalks are cut. It possesses a narcotic virtue, noticed by
ancient physicians; and even in our day a lettuce supper is
deemed conducive to repose. Its proper character, however, is
that of a cooling summer vegetable, not very nutritive, but
serving as a corrective, or diluent of animal food.

MILK SOUP (a Nice Dish for Children).

137. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, or more if liked, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon, and sugar; lay the bread in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot over a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add them to the milk, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Do not let it curdle. Pour it upon the bread, and serve.

_Time_.--3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 10 children.

ONION SOUP.

138. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir them occasionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock to them, and season; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

CHEAP ONION SOUP.

139. INGREDIENTS.--8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a tablespoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Cut the onions small, put them in the stewpan with the butter, and fry them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water, add the onions, seasoning, and sugar, and simmer till tender. Thicken with butter and flour, and serve.

_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_,4d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

THE ONION.--Like the cabbage, this plant was erected into an
object of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians 2,000 years before
the Christian era, and it still forms a favourite food in the
country of these people, as well as in other parts of Africa.
When it was first introduced to England, has not been
ascertained; but it has long been in use, and esteemed as a
favourite seasoning plant to various dishes. In warmer climates
it is much milder in its flavour; and such as are grown in Spain
and Portugal, are, comparatively speaking, very large, and are
often eaten both in a boiled and roasted state. The Strasburg is
the most esteemed; and, although all the species have highly
nutritive properties, they impart such a disagreeable odour to
the breath, that they are often rejected even where they are
liked. Chewing a little raw parsley is said to remove this
odour.

PAN KAIL.

140. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of cabbage, or Savoy greens; 1/4 lb. of butter or dripping, salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for thickening, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Chop the cabbage very fine, thicken the water with oatmeal, put in the cabbage and butter, or dripping; season and simmer for 1-1/2 hour. It can be made sooner by blanching and mashing the greens, adding any good liquor that a joint has been boiled in, and then further thicken with bread or pounded biscuit.

_Time_--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

THE SAVOY.--This is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage,
sweet and tender, especially the middle leaves, and in season
from November to spring. The yellow species bears hard weather
without injury, whilst the _dwarf_ kind are improved and
rendered more tender by frost.

PARSNIP SOUP.