Chapter XXIII: Roast Black-Cock (2)

THE DEER.--This active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild
and woody regions. In their contentions, both with each other
and the rest of the brute creation, these animals not only use
their horns, but strike very furiously with their fore feet.
Some of the species are employed as beasts of draught, whilst
the flesh of the whole is wholesome, and that of some of the
kinds, under the name of "venison," is considered very
delicious. Persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms
by which the objects of their pursuit are characterized: thus
the stag is called, the first year, a _calf_, or _hind-calf_;
the second, a _knobber_; the third, a _brock_; the fourth, a
_staggard_; the fifth, a _stag_; and the sixth, a _hart_. The
female is, the first year, called a _calf_; the second, a
_hearse_; and the third, a _hind_. In Britain, the stag has
become scarcer than it formerly was; but, in the Highlands of
Scotland, herds of four or five hundred may still be seen,
ranging over the vast mountains of the north; and some of the
stags of a great size. In former times, the great feudal
chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns,
assembling some thousands of their clans, who drove the deer
into the toils, or to such stations as were occupied by their
chiefs. As this sport, however, was occasionally used as a means
for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of
concocting rebellion, an act was passed prohibitory of such
assemblages. In the "Waverley" of Sir Walter Scott, a
deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described.

VENISON.--This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of
deer, and is esteemed as very delicious. Different species of
deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in
several instances invaluable to man. This is especially the case
with the Laplander, whose reindeer constitutes a large
proportion of his wealth. There--

"The reindeer unharness'd in freedom can play,
And safely o'er Odin's steep precipice stray,
Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly,
And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky."

In that country it is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the
goat, and the sheep. From its milk is produced cheese; from its
skin, clothing; from its tendons, bowstrings and thread; from
its horns, glue; from its bones, spoons; and its flesh furnishes
food. In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty,
and much admired. He is a native of many parts of Europe, and is
supposed to have been originally introduced into this country
from France. About a century back he was to be found wild in
some of the rough and mountainous parts of Wales, as well as in
the forests of Exmoor, in Devonshire, and the woods on the banks
of the Tamar. In the middle ages the deer formed food for the
not over abstemious monks, as represented by Friar Tuck's
larder, in the admirable fiction of "Ivanhoe;" and at a later
period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the
"ingenious" William Shakspeare to London, to become a common
player, and the greatest dramatist that ever lived.

HASHED VENISON.

1050. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of roast venison, its own or mutton gravy, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and, if there is sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is preferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of mutton gravy; let them stew gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a little flour and butter into the stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add the strained gravy, and give it a boil up; skim and strain again, and, when a little cool, put in the slices of venison. Place the stewpan by the side of the fire, and, when on the point of simmering, serve: do not allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Send red-currant jelly to table with it.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from November to the end of January.

_Note_.--A small quantity of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may be added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients must, however, be used very sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison.

THE FALLOW-DEER.--This is the domestic or park deer; and no two
animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag
and it, and yet no two animals keep more distinct, or avoid each
other with a more inveterate animosity. They never herd or
intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an
intermediate race; it is even rare, unless they have been
transported thither, to find fellow-deer in a country where
stags are numerous. He is very easily tamed, and feeds upon many
things which the stag refuses: he also browzes closer than the
stag, and preserves his venison better. The doe produces one
fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. In short, they resemble
the stag in all his natural habits, and the greatest difference
between them is the duration of their lives: the stag, it is
said, lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years, and the
fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. As they are smaller
than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner
completed.

STEWED VENISON.

1051. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2 glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1-1/2 pint of weak stock or gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice.

_Mode_.--Hang the venison till tender; take out the bone, flatten the meat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat, which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine; sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up, and bind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and the above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black pepper, and port wine; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, very gently, from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, and dish the meat; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table with red-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the best mode of cooking it.

_Time_.--3-1/2 to 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from November to the end of January.

THE ROEBUCK.--This is the _Certuscapreolus_, or common roe, and
is of a reddish-brown colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as
well as of Europe. It has great grace in its movements, and
stands about two feet seven inches high, and has a length of
about three feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to
eight inches.

THE STAG.--The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and
the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow-deer,
and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round instead
of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the
first year he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is
short and rough, and covered with a thin hairy skin. The next
year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third they
have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the
sixth year; although this number is not always certain, for
sometimes they are more, and often less. After the sixth year,
the antlers do not always increase; and, although in number they
may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is
then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the
thickness of the branch which sustains them, than by their
variety. Large as these horns seem, however, they are shed every
year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes
place in the spring. When the old horns have fallen off, the new
ones do not make their appearance immediately; but the bones of
the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or
skin, which enwraps the bones of all animals. After a short
time, however, the skin begins to swell, and to form a sort of
tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoot forth
the antlers from each side; and, in a short time, in proportion
as the animal is in condition, the entire horns are completed.
The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until
the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually
shed their horns first, which generally happens towards the
latter end of February or the beginning of March. Such as are
between five and six years old shed them about the middle or
latter end of March; those still younger in the month of April;
and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of
May. These rules, though generally true, are subject to
variations; for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the
horns.--The HIND has no horns, and is less fitted for being
hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care of her young,
and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become
a prey to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of
the cat kind, with the wolf, the dog, the eagle, and the falcon,
are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst the
stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has
young, therefore, it would seem that the courage of the male is
transferred to the female, for she defends them with the most
resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before
the hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whose
life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own.

THE NEW VENISON.--The deer population of our splendid English
parks was, until a few years since, limited to two species, the
fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an
acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came
to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park
in England have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of
deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes, and
rich pastures of his domain? The temperate regions of the whole
world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant,
valuable either for their individual beauty, or for their
availability to gastronomic purposes.

During the last four or live years a few spirited English
noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in
their parks, and have obtained such a decided success, that it
may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a
course which will eventually give to England's rural scenery a
new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of
the choicest character.

A practical solution of this interesting question was made by
Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January, 1809. On
that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the
species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was
killed for the table. The noble beast was thus described:--"He
weighed 1,176 lbs. as he dropped; huge as a short-horn, but with
bone not half the size; active as a deer, stately in all his
paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap,
and strong sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode
majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and
their progeny, all English-born, like himself." Three pairs of
the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the
picturesque elopes throughout the day, and to return to their
home at pleasure. "Here, during winter, they are assisted with
roots and hay, but in summer they have nothing but the pasture
of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more
than cattle of the best description." Travellers and sportsmen
say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his
flesh by any ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an
enormous size, and lays on fat with as great facility as a true
short-horn; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely
superior. The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and
delicate. It was tried in every fashion,--braised brisket,
roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet sauté, boiled aitchbone,
&c.,--and in all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of
surpassing value had been added to the products of the English
park.

When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is
pleasing to record that Lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian
wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of the small
Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in
breeding the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first
acclimated in England by the late Earl of Derby, between the
years 1835-1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his death, in
1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of
elands, consisting of two males and three females. Here the
animals have been treated with the greatest success, and from
the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly
reproduced, without the loss of a single calf.

ROAST WIDGEON.

1052. INGREDIENTS.--Widgeons, a little flour, butter.

_Mode_.--These are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022, but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them down to a brisk fire; flour, and baste them continually with butter, and, when browned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and quickly. Serve with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a cut lemon.

_Time_.--1/4 hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.

ROAST WOODCOCK.

1053. INGREDIENTS.--Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast.

_Mode_.--Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures, considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well outside; truss them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the thighs; skin the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing. Place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails, allowing a piece of toast for each bird. Roast before a clear fire from 15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and flour and froth them nicely. When done, dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them, and pour round a very little gravy; send some more to table in a tureen. These are most delicious birds when well cooked, but they should not be kept too long: when the feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fit for table.--See coloured plate, I 1.

_Time_.---When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes; if liked well done, allow an extra 5 minutes.

_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from November to February.

THE WOODCOCK.--This bird being migratory in its habits, has,
consequently, no settled habitation; it cannot be considered as
the property of any one, and is, therefore, not game by law. It
breeds in high northern latitudes, and the time of its
appearance and disappearance in Sweden coincides exactly with
that of its arrival in and return from Great Britain. On the
coast of Suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been
accurately observed. In the first week of October it makes its
appearance in small numbers, but in November and December it
appears in larger numbers, and always after sunset, and most
gregariously. In the same manner as woodcocks take their leave
of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy, making the northern
and colder climates their summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy
in the latter part of October, but continue there only a few
weeks, the country being hard, and unable to supply them with
such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found
as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and, during the same season,
in Barbary, where the Africans name them "the ass of the
partridge." It has been asserted that they have been seen as far
south as Egypt, which is the most remote region to which they
can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other
side, they are common in Japan. Those which resort to the
countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the mountains
of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of
the woodcock is held in high estimation; hence the bird is
eagerly sought after by the sportsman.

GAME CARVING.

BLACKCOCK.

1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of the guests at a dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently to be composed of such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appears to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes, than larger and more robust _pièces de résistance_. As described at recipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or without the head on; and although we do not personally object to the appearance of the head as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be more in vogue to serve it without. The carving is not difficult, but should be elegantly and deftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in the direction of the dotted line from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the merrythought displaced and the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from 3 to 4, and following the directions given under the head of boiled fowl, No. 1000, reserving the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the most honoured guests, some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird.

WILD DUCK.

1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes are not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of each, which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest. Of wild-fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and slices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from 1 to 2; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by passing the knife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions described for carving boiled fowl, No. 1000.

ROAST HARE.

1056. The "Grand Carver" of olden times, a functionary of no ordinary dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill and grace had an opportunity of display. _Diners à la Russe_ may possibly, erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art which was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we see the office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well for all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if not the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare, having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be first served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in the direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposed of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off by passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now be divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2, taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare, especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry, will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.

PARTRIDGES.

1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird. The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the top of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thus dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the same manner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into three pieces; viz., by severing a small wing and leg on either side from the body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making 2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The most elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to 2: this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce should be served to each guest.

GROUSE.

1058. GROUSE may be carved in the way first described in carving partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and this part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured.

PHEASANT.

1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from it in the direction of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the prime pieces. If there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve, then let the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described in carving boiled fowl, No. 1000, the point where the wing joins the neckbone being carefully found. The merrythought will come off in the same way as that of a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as those which are most considered in a fowl.

SNIPE.

1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to a gentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite through the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal and like portions, and put only one half on the plate.

HAUNCH OF VENISON.

1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercise his skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know, there is but little difficulty in the performance. An incision being made completely down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, the gravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick, should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3; that end of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so that he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although some epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior to others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut above and below the line. It should be borne in mind to serve each guest with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver will be the best carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it loses much of its charm.

WOODCOCK.

1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in carving partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is considered the tit-bit of a woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This bird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin, in connection with the pheasant, viz., on toast which has received its drippings whilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany each plate.

LANDRAIL.

1063. LANDRAIL, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.--See No. 1060.

PTARMIGAN.

1064. PTARMIGAN, being of much the same size, and trussed in the same manner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described in Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058.

QUAILS.

1065. QUAILS, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be similarly carved.--See No. 1062.

PLOVERS.

1066. PLOVERS may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed and served in the same way as those birds.--See No. 1055.

TEAL.

1067. TEAL, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wild Duck, may be treated, in carving, in the same style.

WIDGEON.

1068. WIDGEON may be carved in the same way as described in regard to Wild Duck, at No. 1055.