Chapter XV: Preface (15)

The footman should endeavour to get the dirtiest part of his work done first; such as cleaning the shoes and boots, knives and forks, brushing and cleaning clothes, hats and gloves, and cleaning the furniture, &c. &c. For these purposes, his working dress should be generally a pair of overalls, a waistcoat and fustian jacket, and a leather apron, with a white apron to put on occasionally, when called from these duties.[22]

The business of the footman below stairs being done, he next proceeds to clean the lamps in the best rooms. The oil in them should be fine and good, and changed once a week or ten days, and the cottons should be thick and closely woven, always kept dry, and cut even at the top, and soaked a little when fresh put in, by letting down the oil to them for a short time.

For cleaning boots and shoes, he takes care to provide himself with proper brushes and good blacking. In boots he will not clean the tops till he has finished the feet and legs, when it will be necessary to cover the legs whilst he is cleaning the tops.

Ladies’ shoes are to be cleaned with milk, and other liquids, according to their colour, and merely the edges of the soles are to be blacked and polished, but in cleaning these and gentlemen’s dress shoes, great care must be taken not to soil the inside linings.

Afterwards, the next business in rotation in the morning, will be to clean the mahogany and other furniture, in the parlour and best rooms. Whether the tables, side-boards, cellerets, chairs, &c. be of a light or dark colour, they must be cleaned with a preparation or oil of an appropriate colour.

In using the different compositions, have two pieces of woollen cloth for each, one to put it on with, and the other for polishing. Sometimes a hard brush will be required to lay on the paste, and a piece of soft cork to rub out the stains. Always rub the wood the way of the grain, and remember to dust the furniture before you begin to clean it.

If oil be used, let it be rubbed off as quickly as possible, and then polished with another cloth. When wax is used, let it be applied very sparingly, and polished off with another cloth.

The brass rods or other ornaments to side-boards, cellarets, &c. should be cleaned before the mahogany is touched. The dirt on these ornaments may be removed with flannel well soaped, and polished off with the plate leather. If any brass work has the lacquer worn off, it may be cleaned with brick-dust and leather.

Every article of furniture should be cleaned and rubbed in the middle of the room, when convenient, to prevent smearing and injuring the walls.

_Looking Glasses_ being very costly, should be cleaned with great care. First, take a clean soft sponge, just squeezed out of water, and then dipped in spirits of wine; rub the glass over with this, and then polish it off with fine powder blue, or whiting tied up in muslin, quickly laid on, and then well rubbed off, with a clean cloth, and afterwards with a silk handkerchief. If the glass be very large, no more of it should be wetted with the spirit at a time, than can be cleaned off quickly.

The frames must never be touched with any thing wet or damp. Cotton-wool is the best thing to rub them with, as it will take off the stains and dirt without doing any injury;[23] or, if the frames are varnished, they may be rubbed with the spirits of wine, which will at once take out the spots and dirt, after which they may be re-varnished.

Pictures are best cleaned lightly with a wet sponge, but should never be touched with a cloth.

The attendance of the footman will now be required in the breakfast parlour, for which purpose, he must prepare by washing himself, and throwing off his working dress.

In the directions to the butler, we have given sufficiently at large, setting out the breakfast table, and waiting at breakfast, which in small families becomes solely the business of the footman.

After breakfast, he sets the parlour to rights by sweeping up the crumbs, shaking the green cloth, and laying it again on the table, making up the fire and sweeping up the hearth.

The footman now carries out such messages and cards as he is charged to deliver.

When the footman is obliged to go out with the carriage, the butler or under butler usually undertakes to do such things in his absence, as he necessarily leaves undone.

In large families, the footman lays the cloth for dinner, and the knives and forks and glasses, and the butler arranges the silver articles, and sees that the whole is correctly laid out. When the hour of dinner approaches, notice is usually given, by the ringing of a bell by the footman, ten or fifteen minutes before the time; and during this time he is busy in carrying up every thing that he thinks may or can be wanted during dinner, so as to have every thing at hand, at that time. Again he rings the dinner bell, to announce to the family that dinner is going up, when the butler takes the first dish, and is followed by the under butler and footman with the remainder of the fish and soups, which the butler places on the table, and removing the covers, gives them to the footman and under butler, who convey them out of the room. The servants then take their respective stations,—the butler at the side-board, to serve the wines or beer when called for; the footman at the back of his master’s chair, and the lady’s footman, if any, behind his lady. When the soups and fish have been served round, the butler rings the dining-room bell to warn the cook to be ready with the removes, which are generally, solid joints of meat, or the first course, if no removes; the butler then removes the dishes from the table, and hands them to the footman or under butler, who carries them away. If wine or beer is asked for, the footman or under butler puts the empty glasses on a waiter, and the butler fills them. When a clean plate is wanted, the butler hands it to the footman, with a clean knife and fork, and the footman puts the dirty one in the proper place to be taken away.

When the butler sees that the first course is nearly done with, he again gives notice to the cook, and proceeds to take all the dishes off the table, and the footman and under butler take them away, and fetch the second course. The butler being employed, in the mean time, in setting the table in order, laying the mats, clean spoons, glasses, &c. The footman, with the assistance of the house-maids and others, having brought up the next course, the butler places the dishes on the table, takes off the covers, hands them to the footman, to be taken away, and again takes his station at the side-board, and during the whole dinner, the same kind of etiquette as before, is observed by every servant in attendance, (of which, in some cases, there are several besides the butler, under butler, and footman; namely, the lady’s footman, valet, and on particular occasions, waiters hired for the purpose.) The third course, (consisting of pastry, viz. pies, tarts, &c. with game at the top and bottom of the table, and the cheese and salads placed on the side-board) which being removed, as before, the butler with a napkin wipes off the stains and marks of the hot dishes on the tables, and places the dessert, as it is brought up by the footman and under butler. He also puts the wine on the table, and the under butler the wine-glasses, while the footman places the finger glasses before each person, and a plate, with a knife and fork and spoon on each plate, the butler putting other spoons for serving the fruits, jellies, &c. The butler takes his place behind his master’s chair, at the foot of the table, and the lady’s footman, behind his lady’s chair at the head, to hand the wines, &c. and all the other servants leave the room, taking with them all the things that have been used.

The footman, as soon as all the things are carried down, repairs to the drawing-room, makes up the fire, sweeps up the hearth, and otherwise prepares that room. The butler also taking occasion to see that the lamps and candles are lighted, and the card tables set out, with candles and two packs of cards on each, and the chairs and sofas properly arranged by the footman.

The butler and footman then retire to their several avocations in the butler’s pantry, where the footman is employed in washing and wiping the glasses, and the under butler cleaning the plate, (which the kitchen maid generally washes.) When the ladies have retired from the dining-room, and the drawing-room bell rings for coffee, the footman enters with the tray, the coffee being made below stairs, and the bread and butter, cakes, toast, &c. the under butler, or some other servant following, to take away the empty cups and saucers on a waiter or tray. At tea time, the butler carries up the tea-tray, and the footman the toast, muffins, &c. (which are prepared by the kitchen maid). Tea is announced to the gentlemen by the footman, and the gentlemen having joined the ladies, the tea and coffee is handed round by the butler, bread and butter, toast, &c. by the footman, the under butler following to take away the cups and saucers.

If there be no supper, the wine, when ordered, is carried in by the butler, and the glasses, &c. on a tray, by the footman; if sandwiches are introduced, they are carried up on a tray, covered with a clean cloth, by the footman, the butler attending in the room to hand the wines, &c.

The company being gone, the bed-room candlesticks are brought by the footman, and are handed to each person respectively as he wishes to retire to bed.

The footman then shuts up all the lower part of the house, if not before done, and retires to bed himself. The butler follows last, sees all safe, and retires also.

In going out with the carriage, the footman should be dressed in his best livery, his shoes and stockings being very clean, and his hat, great coat, &c. being well brushed; nothing being so disgraceful as a slovenly exterior. He should be ready at receiving directions at the carriage door, and accurate in delivering them to the coachman, and though he may indicate the importance of his family by his style of knocking at a door, he ought to have some regard to the nerves of the family and the peace of the neighbourhood. When the carriage waits at routs or public places, he should abstain from drinking with other servants, and take care to be within call when wanted. His expertness in letting down the steps and putting them up again, and his caution in shutting the door, so as not to injure any one, or the dresses of the ladies, are expected.

When he walks out behind his mistress, he should preserve a modest demeanour, and protect her, if necessary, from intrusion or insult; and on this duty he is expected to be particularly attentive to every part of his dress. In answering the door it is his duty to behave respectfully to all enquirers after his master or mistress, and never to presume on his knowledge of persons whom they ought to see or ought not to see, except in obedience to positive instructions.

The Footman’s wages are from 20 to 30 guineas, with two suits of livery, and two undress suits.

LIQUID FOR CLEANSING BOOT TOPS, &c.

Mix in a phial, one drachm of oxy-muriate of potass, with two ounces
of distilled water; and when the salt is dissolved, add two ounces
of muriatic acid. Then shake well together, mix in another phial,
three ounces of rectified spirit of wine with half an ounce of the
essential oil of lemon, unite the contents of the two phials, and
keep the liquid thus prepared, closely corked for use. This chemical
liquid should be applied with a clean sponge, and dried in a gentle
heat; after which, the boot-tops may be polished with a proper brush,
so as to appear like new leather.

_Another Method of Cleaning Boot-Tops._

Take of white vitriol, powdered, one ounce,
acid of sugar one ounce,
water, one quart.
Mix together.
Put a label on it, “Rank Poison.”

Sponge the tops with water first: then mix with the liquid,
and then with water again.

TO CLEAN MAHOGANY FURNITURE.

Take two ounces of bees’ wax, scrape it fine, put it into a pot or
jar, and pour over it enough of spirits of turpentine to cover it;
let it stand a little while, and it will be ready for use. If the
furniture is to be kept a dark colour, mix a very small quantity of
alkanet root or rose-pink, with it.

TO CLEAN FURNITURE WITH OIL.

Take a pint of cold-drawn linseed oil, and if you wish to colour
it, take a little alkanet root or rose-pink, and mix with it: put a
little on the furniture, and rub it well with a woollen cloth; do not
let the oil stand long on the table before it is rubbed off.

GERMAN POLISH FOR FURNITURE.

Melt a quarter of a pound of yellow wax and an ounce of black resin,
well beaten, in an earthen pipkin. Then pour in by degrees two ounces
of spirit of turpentine. When the whole is thoroughly mixed, put it
into an earthen jar, and keep it covered for use. Spread a little of
it on the furniture with a woollen cloth, rub it well in, and in a
few days the polish will be as hard and as bright as varnish.

TO WARM A CARRIAGE.

Convey into it a stone bottle of boiling water, or for the feet a
single glass bottle of boiled water, wrapped in flannel.

TO PRESERVE BRASS ORNAMENTS.

Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered, may be cleaned, and a
fine colour may be given to them by two simple processes. The first
is to beat sal ammoniac into a fine powder, then to moisten it with
soft water, rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be heated over
charcoal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting. The second is to
wash the brass work with roche alum boiled in strong ley, in the
proportion of an ounce to a pint; when dry it must be rubbed with
fine tripoli. Either of these processes will give to brass the
brilliancy of gold.

TO PREVENT THE SMOKING OF A LAMP.

Soak the wick in strong vinegar, and dry it well before you use it;
it will then burn both sweet and pleasant, and give much satisfaction
for the trifling trouble in preparing it.

If for want of the above mentioned preparation any should escape, a
wet sponge suspended by a string or wire over the flame of a lamp,
at a few inches distance, will absorb all the smoke and disagreeable
effluvia. Rinse it in warm water when wanted the next day.

TO CLEAN WATER CASKS.

Scour the inside well out with water and sand, and afterwards apply
a quantity of charcoal dust. Another and better method is, to rinse
them with a pretty strong solution of oil of vitriol and water, which
will entirely deprive them of their foulness.

TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF MAHOGANY.

Mix 6 ounces of spirit of salts, and ½ an ounce of rock salt of
lemons (powdered) together. Drop a little on the stains, and rub it
with a cork till it disappear. Wash off with cold water.

TO REMOVE SPOTS OF GREASE FROM CLOTH.

Spots of grease may be removed by a diluted solution of potash,
but this must be cautiously applied, to prevent injury to the
cloth. Stains of white wax, which sometimes fall upon clothes from
wax-candles, are removed by spirits of turpentine, or sulphuric
ether. The marks of white paint may also be discharged by the
above-mentioned agents.

TO CLEAN CANDLESTICKS AND SNUFFERS.

If silver or plated, care must be taken that they are not scratched
in getting off the wax or grease; therefore never use a knife for
that purpose, nor hold them before the fire to melt the wax or
grease, as in general the hollow part of the candlesticks, towards
the bottom, is filled with a composition that will melt if made too
hot. Pour boiling water over them; this will take all the grease off
without injury, if wiped directly with an old cloth, and save the
brushes from being greased: let them in all other respects be cleaned
like the rest of the plate.

TO CLEAN JAPANNED CANDLESTICKS.

Never hold them near the fire, nor scrape them with a knife; the best
way is to pour water upon them just hot enough to melt the grease;
then wipe them with a cloth, and if they look smeared, sprinkle a
little whiting or flour upon them, and rub it clean off.

Be very particular in cleaning the patent snuffers, as they go with a
spring, and are easily broken. The part which shuts up the snuffings
has in general a small hole in it, where a pin can be put in to keep
it open while cleaning it; be sure to have them well cleaned, that
the snuff may not drop about when using them. The extinguishers
likewise must be cleaned in the inside, and put ready with the
snuffers, that the candlesticks may not be taken up without them.

TO CLEAN FURNITURE.

Keep the furniture paste or oil in a proper can or jar, that there
may be no danger of upsetting when using it. Have two pieces of
woollen cloth, one for rubbing it on, the other for rubbing it
dry and polishing; also an old linen cloth to finish with, and a
piece of smooth soft cork to rub out the stains: use a brush if the
paste be hard. Always dust the table well before the oil or paste
is put on; and if it should be stained rub it with a damp sponge,
and then with a dry cloth. If the stain does not disappear, rub it
well with the cork, or a brush the way of the grain, for if rubbed
cross-grained, it will be sure to scratch it. Be careful to keep the
cork and brush free from dust and dirt. When the dust is cleaned off
and the stains have been got out, put on the oil or paste, but not
too much at a time; rub it well into the wood; if oil, be as quick
as possible in rubbing it over the table, and then polish it with
another woollen cloth. If wax, put a little bit on the woollen cloth,
with the finger, or a small stick; rub it well with this till the
table has a high polish, then have another cloth to finish it with.
Be very careful to have the edges of the tables well cleaned, and the
oil and wax well rubbed off.

TO BRUSH CLOTHES.

Have a wooden horse to put the clothes on, and a small cane or small
hand-whip to beat the dust out of them; also a board or table long
enough for them to be put their whole length when brushing them. Have
two brushes, one hard and the other soft: use the hardest for the
great coats, and the others when spotted with dirt. Fine cloth coats
should never be brushed with too hard a brush, as this will take off
the nap, and make them look bare in a little time. Be careful in the
choice of your cane; do not have it too large, and be particular not
to hit too hard; be careful also not to hit the buttons, for it will
scratch, if not break them.

If a coat be wet, and spotted with dirt, let it be quite dry before
you brush it; then rub out the spots with the hands, taking care not
to rumple it. If it want beating, do it as before directed; then lay
the coat at its full length on a board; let the collar be towards the
left hand, and the brush in the right; brush the back of the collar
first, between the two shoulders next, and then the sleeves, &c.
observing to brush the cloth the same way that the nap goes, which is
towards the bottom of the coat. When both sides are properly done,
fold them together; then brush the inside, and last of all the collar.

TO TAKE OUT GREASE FROM CLOTHES.

Have a hot iron with some thick brown paper: lay the paper on the
part where the grease is, then put the iron upon the spot; if the
grease comes through the paper, put on another piece, till it does
not soil the paper. If not all out, wrap a little bit of cloth or
flannel round the finger, dip it into spirit of wine, and rub the
grease spot; this will take it entirely out. Be careful not to
have the iron too hot; but try it on a piece of white paper, and
if it turn the paper brown, or scorch in the least, it is too
hot. If paint should get on the coats, always have spirit of wine
or turpentine ready, which, with a piece of flannel or cloth, will
easily take it off, if not left to get quite dry.

TO CLEAN TEA TRAYS.

Do not pour boiling water over them, particularly on japanned ones,
as it will make the varnish crack and peel off; but have a sponge
wetted with warm water and a little soap, if the tray be very dirty,
then rub it with a cloth; if it looks smeary, dust on a little flour,
then rub it with a dry cloth. If the paper tray gets marked, take
a piece of woollen cloth, with a little sweet oil, and rub it over
the marks; if any thing will take them out this will. Let the urn be
emptied, and the top wiped dry, particularly the outside, for if any
wet be suffered to dry on, it will leave a mark.

METHOD OF DARKENING MAHOGANY.

Nothing more is necessary than to wash the mahogany with lime-water,
which may be readily made by dropping a nodule of lime into a bason
of water.

TO WASH AND CLEAN GENTLEMEN’S GLOVES.

Wash them in soap and water till the dirt is got out, then stretch
them on wooden hands, or pull them out in their proper shape. Never
wring them as that puts them out of form and makes them shrink; put
them one upon another and press the water out. Then rub the following
mixture over the outside of the gloves. If wanted quite yellow, take
yellow ochre; if quite white, pipe clay; if between the two, mix a
little of each together. By proper mixture of these any shade may be
produced. Mix the colour with beer or vinegar.

Let them dry gradually, not too near the fire nor in too hot a sun;
when they are about half dried rub them well, and stretch them out
to keep them from shrinking and to soften them. When they are well
rubbed and dried take a small cane and beat them, then brush them;
when this is done iron them rather warm, with a piece of paper over
them, but do not let the iron be too hot.

TO MANAGE WATER-PIPES IN WINTER.

When the frost begins to set in, cover the water-pipes with hay or
straw bands, twisted tight round them. Let the cisterns and water
butts be washed out occasionally; this will keep the water pure and
fresh.

In pumping up water into the cistern for the water-closet, be very
particular, in winter-time, as in general the pipes go up the
outside of the house. Let all the water be let out of the pipe when
you have done pumping; but if this be forgotten, and it should get
frozen, take a small gimblet and bore a _hole_ in the pipe, a little
distance from the place where it is let off, which will prevent its
bursting. Put a peg in to the hole when the water is let off. Pump
the water up into the cistern, for the closet every morning, and once
a week take a pail of water, and cast it into the basin, having first
opened the trap at the bottom; this will clear the soil out of the
pipe.

TO PRESERVE HATS.

Hats require great care, or they will soon look shabby. Brush them
with a soft camel-hair brush, which will keep the fur smooth. Have
a stick for each hat, to keep it in its proper shape, especially if
the hat be wet: put the stick in as soon as the hat is taken off, and
when dry put it into a hat-box, particularly if not in constant use,
as the air and dust soon turn hats brown. If the hat is very wet,
handle it as lightly as possible; wipe it dry with a cloth or silk
handkerchief; then brush it with the soft brush.

VARNISH FOR WAINSCOTTING, SMALL ARTICLES OF FURNITURE, BALUSTRADES,
AND INSIDE RAILING.

Take gum sandarac, 6 oz.
shell lac, 2 oz.
colophonium, or resin,
white glass pounded,
clear turpentine, each 4 oz.
pure alcohol, 32 oz.
Dissolve the varnish according to the directions given
for compound mastic varnish.

This varnish is sufficiently durable to be applied to
articles destined to daily and continual use. Varnishes
composed with copal ought, however, in these cases, to be
preferred.

_Another._

Melt over a moderate fire, in a very clean vessel, two ounces of
white or yellow wax; and, when liquefied, add four ounces of oil of
turpentine. Stir the whole until it is entirely cool, and the result
will be a kind of pomade fit for waxing furniture, and which must be
rubbed over them according to the usual method. The oil of turpentine
is soon dissipated; but the wax, which by its mixture is reduced to a
state of very great division, may be extended with more ease, and in
a more uniform manner. The essence soon penetrates the pores of the
wood, calls forth the colour of it, causes the wax to adhere better,
and the lustre which thence results is equal to that of varnish,
without having any of its inconveniences.

COLOURED VARNISH FOR PLUM-TREE, MAHOGANY, AND ROSE-WOOD.

Take of gum sandarac, 4 oz.
seed lac, 2 oz.
mastic,
Benjamin in tears, each 1 oz.
pounded glass, 4 oz.
Venice turpentine, 2 oz.
pure alcohol, 32 oz.

The gum sandarac and lac render this varnish durable; it
may be coloured with a little saffron or dragon’s blood.

TO MAKE BLACKING.

Take of ivory-black and treacle, each 12 oz.
spermaceti oil, 4 oz.
white wine vinegar, 4 pints.
Mix.

This blacking, (recommended by Mr. Gray, lecturer on the
materia medica,) is superior in giving leather a finer polish
than any of those that are advertised, as they all contain
sulphuric acid, (oil of vitriol,) which is necessary, to give
it the polishing quality, but it renders leather rotten and
very liable to crack.

_Another._

Take of vinegar, No. 18, (the common,) 1 quart,
ivory-black, and treacle, each 6 oz.
vitriolic acid, and spermaceti, (or common oil,)
each 1½ oz.
Mix the acid and oil first, afterwards add the other
ingredients; if, when it is used, it does not dry quick
enough on the leather, add a little more of the vitriol, a
little at a time. When there is too much of the vitriolic
acid, which is various in its strength, the mixture will
give it a brown colour.

_Liquid Japan Blacking._

Take 3 ounces of ivory-black, 2 ounces of coarse sugar, one ounce
of sulphuric acid, one ounce of muriatic acid, one table-spoonful
of sweet oil and lemon acid, and one pint of vinegar. First mix the
ivory-black and sweet oil together, then the lemon and sugar, with a
little vinegar, to qualify the blacking; next add the sulphuric and
muriatic acids, and mix them all well together.

_A Cheap Method._

Ivory-black, two ounces; brown sugar, one ounce and a half; and sweet
oil, half a table spoonful. Mix them well, and then gradually add
half a pint of small beer.

_Another Method._

A quarter of a pound of ivory-black, a quarter of a pound of moist
sugar, a table spoonful of flour, a piece of tallow about the size of
a walnut, and a small piece of gum arabic. Make a paste of the flour,
and whilst hot, put in the tallow, then the sugar, and afterwards mix
the whole well together in a quart of water.

_Bailey’s Composition for Blacking Cakes._

Take gum tragacanth, one ounce; neat’s-foot oil, super-fine
ivory-black, deep blue, prepared from iron and copper, each two
ounces; brown sugar-candy, river water, each four ounces. Having
mixed well these ingredients, evaporate the water, and form it into
cakes.

_Blacking Balls for Shoes._

Take mutton suet, four ounces; bees’ wax, one ounce; sweet oil, one
ounce; sugar-candy and gum arabic, one dram each in fine powder;
melt these well together over a gentle fire, and add thereto about
a spoonful of turpentine, and lamp black sufficient to give it a
good black colour. While hot enough to run, make it into a ball, by
pouring the liquor into a thin mould; or let it stand till almost
cold; when it may be moulded by the hand.

TO RENDER LEATHER WATER PROOF.

This is done by rubbing or brushing into the leather a mixture of
drying oils, and any of the oxides or calxes of lead, copper, or
iron: or by substituting any of the gummy resins, in the room of the
metallic oxides.

FURNITURE PASTE.

Scrape four ounces of bees’-wax into a basin, and add as much oil of
turpentine as will moisten it through. Then powder a quarter of an
ounce of resin, and add as much Indian red as will bring it to a deep
mahogany colour. When the composition is properly stirred up, it will
prove an excellent cement or paste for blemishes in mahogany, and
other furniture.

_Another Method._

Scrape four ounces of bees’-wax, as before. To a pint of oil of
turpentine, in a glazed pipkin, add an ounce of alkanet-root. Cover
it close, and put it over a slow fire, attending it carefully that
it may not boil over, or catch fire. When the liquid is of a deep
red, add as much of it to the wax as will moisten it through, also a
quarter of an ounce of powdered resin. Cover the whole close, and let
it stand six hours, when it will be fit for use.

_Furniture Oil._

Put some linseed-oil into a glazed pipkin, with as much alkanet root
as it will cover. Let it boil gently, and it will become of a strong
red colour: when cool it will be fit for use.

TO REMOVE FLIES FROM ROOMS.

Take half a tea-spoonful of black pepper, in powder, one tea-spoonful
of brown sugar, and one table-spoonful of cream; mix them well
together, and place them in the room, on a plate, where the flies are
troublesome, and they will soon disappear.

_Another Way._

Dissolve two drams of extract of quassia in half a pint of boiling
water, sweeten it, and pour it into plates to be set about the room.
This mixture, though fatal to the flies, is not otherwise pernicious.

TO EXTINGUISH FIRE IN A CHIMNEY.

Put a wet blanket over the whole front of the fire-place, which will
stop the current of air, and thus extinguish the flames.

TO CLEAN BOOT TOPS WHITE.

Take an ounce of oxalic acid, dissolve it in a pint of soft water,
and keep it in a bottle well corked; dip a soft sponge into the
mixture to clean the tops with, and if there are any spots which
refuse to disappear, rub them with a little fine Bath brick dust:
sponge the tops afterwards with clean water. Take particular care
always to have any mixtures, or powders for boot-tops, labelled with
the word poison in large letters, as fatal accidents have arisen from
oxalic acid, being so like Epsom salts in appearance, as to be often
taken for them in mistake.

TO CLEAN BOOT TOPS BROWN.

Take a pint of skimmed milk, half an ounce of spirits of salt, half
an ounce of spirits of lavender, one ounce of gum Arabic, and the
juice of two lemons; mix them well together, and keep them in a
bottle closely corked; rub the tops with a sponge, but use no brick
dust; and when they are dry, polish them with a brush or piece of
flannel.

TO REMOVE UNPLEASANT ODOURS.

The unpleasant smell of new paint is best removed by time, and
atmospheric ventilation: but tubs of water placed in the apartment
will act more rapidly; with this inconvenience, however, that
the gloss of the paint will be destroyed. Unpleasant smells from
water-closets, or all articles of furniture connected with them, may
be modified by the application of quick-lime, to which may be added
the soap-suds that have been used in washing, which neutralize the
pungently offensive salts. A little quick-lime put into a night-chair
will destroy all disagreeable effluvia.

Aromatic pastiles of the following composition may be burned
with great success: take of camphor, flowers of benzoin, powdered
charcoal, powdered cascarilla bark, powdered Turkey myrrh, and
powdered nitre, each equal quantities; beat them with syrup
sufficient to form a mass, and divide into pastiles of conical
shape. They may be mixed up with spirit of turpentine, or any thing
inflammable.

TO CLEAN KNIVES AND FORKS.

Procure a smooth board, free from knots, or one covered with leather.
If the latter, melt a sufficient quantity of mutton suet, and put it
hot upon the leather with a piece of flannel; then take two pieces
of soft Flanders brick, and rub them one against the other over the
leather till it is covered with the powder, which rub in until no
grease comes through, when a knife is passed over the leather, which
may easily be known by the knife keeping its polish.

If only a plain board, rub the brick two or three times over it; for
if too much be put on at once it will make the blades of the knives
look rough and scratched. Let the board be of a proper height, and
set so that you may be in a sloping position while cleaning the
knives. Take a knife in each hand, holding them back to back; stand
opposite the middle of the board; lay the knives flat upon it, and
do not bear too hard upon them; by this method it will be easier to
clean two knives at a time than one, and they will be less liable to
be snapped or broken, when pressed on too heavily.

Be careful to keep a good edge on the knives. Carving knives in
particular ought to be kept sharp, which may easily be done by taking
one in each hand, back to back when cleaning, scarcely letting them
touch the board when expanding the arms, but when drawing the hands
together again, bearing a little hard on the edge of the knives; this
will give them not only a good edge and a fine polish, but is much
better than sharpening them with a steel.

The best way to clean steel forks is to fill a small oyster barrel
with fine gravel, brick dust, or sand, mixed with a little hay or
moss: make it moderately damp, press it well down, and let it always
be kept damp. By running the prongs of the forks a few times into
this, all the stains on them will be removed. Then have a small
stick, shaped like a knife, with leather round it to polish between
the prongs, &c. having first carefully brushed off the dust from them
as soon as they are taken out of the tub. A knife board is often
spoiled by cleaning forks, and the backs of the knives, upon it; to
prevent this, fasten a piece of old hat or leather on the board where
the forks and backs of knives are to be cleaned.

Always turn the back of the knives towards the palm of the hand in
wiping them, which will prevent all danger from cutting. In wiping
the forks put the corner of the cloth between the prongs, to remove
any dirt or dust that may not have been thoroughly brushed out;
and if there be silver ferules on the knives and forks, or silver
handles, they must be rubbed with a piece of leather and plate
powder, keeping the blades covered while the handles are cleaning.

Wipe the knives and folks as soon as possible after being used, as
the longer they are left with grease and stains on them the harder
they will be to clean; particularly if they have been used for acids,
salads, tarts, &c. Have then a jug of hot water ready to put them
into as soon as done with, and wipe them as before directed.

In order to keep knives and forks in good condition when they are not
in use, rub the steel part with a flannel dipped in oil; wipe the oil
off after a few hours, as there is often water in it; or dust the
blades and prongs with quick-lime, finely powdered, and kept in a
muslin bag.

TO CLEAN PLATED ARTICLES.

Plated articles require even more care than silver ones; they should
be cleaned with soft brushes, not too often, and never with any thing
but plate powder, not even whiting by itself; do not wet them more
than can be helped or they will tarnish; nor brush them more than is
necessary, or the silver will come off; the best thing for them is
spirit of wine or oil, and take care that no plated articles remain
long dirty or damp, for if they do they will rust, in case they are
plated on steel, and canker if plated on copper.

Wash the brushes after the plate is cleaned with warm water and soap,
and then set them to dry, with the wooden side uppermost.

THE UNDER BUTLER.

Is entirely under the controul and direction of the Butler. He cleans all the plate—the parlour knives and forks—lays the cloths—sets out the side-board, and assists to wait at table. As he is supposed to be busily employed, after dinner, in the Butler’s pantry, cleaning the plate, he is not usually expected to answer the bells at that period. He trims the lamps belonging to the dining and drawing-rooms, and is frequently required to assist the Butler in cleaning his master’s clothes and shoes. The Under Butler, generally looking to the situation of Butler, and as even in his present station he will have occasion for more particular directions, he will do well frequently to refer to the hints to the Butler, where he will find the immediate duties of the Butler and _himself_ more particularly given.

A chief part of his duty consists in assisting in the rough work of the butler, such as brewing, bottling, and cellar business in general, in all which he should be as expert as the butler himself.

Wages 16 to 25 guineas.

TO CLEAN CHINA AND GLASS.

The best material for cleaning either porcelain or glass-ware is
fullers’ earth, but it must be beaten into a fine powder, and
carefully cleared from all rough or hard particles, which might
endanger the polish of the brilliant surface.

TO CLEAN PLATE.

Wash the plate in boiling water to free it from grease, and if it
has wrought edges, brush it well before you begin to clean it. The
leathers ought to be soft and very thick, and the sponges well soaked
in water.

_Another Way._

Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn-powder in a quart of water. While
on the fire, put as much plate into it as the vessel will hold; let
it boil a little time, then take it out, drain it over the saucepan,
dry it before the fire, and rub it bright with leather. Then put more
into the pan in the same manner until it is all boiled. Put clean
linen rags into the pan to soak up the remainder, and when dry, they
will give a beautiful polish to the plate merely by rubbing it with
them. They are likewise admirable for cleaning brass locks, and the
finger-plates of doors.—This method will only suit small articles of
plate.

TO CLEAN PLATED ARTICLES.

Take an ounce of killed quicksilver, which you may buy at the
chemist’s, and half a pound of the best whiting sifted; mix them with
spirits of wine when used. Hartshorn-powder may be used instead of
whiting; but whiting is quite as good, when dried and pounded.

TO GIVE SILVER PLATE A LUSTRE.

Dissolve alum in strong ley, skim it carefully, mix it with soap and
wash your silver utensils with it, using a linen rag.

TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF SILVER PLATE.

Steep the plate in soap leys for the space of four hours; then cover
it over with whiting wet with vinegar, so that it may stick thick
upon it, and dry it by a fire; after which, rub off the whiting, and
pass it over with dry bran, and the spots will not only disappear,
but the plate will look exceedingly bright.

TO MAKE PLATE LOOK LIKE NEW.

Take of unslaked lime and alum, a pound each, of aqua vitæ and
vinegar, each a pint, and of beer grounds, two quarts; boil the plate
in these, and they will set a beautiful gloss upon it.

TO TAKE FRUIT SPOTS OUT OF CLOTH.

Let the spotted part of the cloth imbibe a little water without
dipping, and hold the part over a lighted common brimstone match at
a proper distance. The sulphurous gas which is discharged, will soon
cause the spot to disappear.

_Plate Powder._

Whiting properly purified from sand, applied wet, and rubbed till
dry, is one of the easiest, safest, and, certainly the cheapest, of
all plate powders.

THE UNDER, SECOND, OR LADY’S COACHMAN.

The business of the _Under Coachman_, is precisely the same as that of the _Head Coachman_, as before detailed. He attends with the assistance of the helper, to the care and dressing of his horses, washing and cleaning the harness and the coach, which is always the second best, and is driven by him at night; whereas the best coach and the best horses, are driven by the Head Coachman by day.

Wages from 20_l._ to 24 guineas, with two suits of livery, a box coat occasionally, hat and boots—also one or two stable dresses.

He is sometimes required to ride as postillion, or as courier, when the family travel _post_.

THE UNDER COACHMAN.

If there be other Coachmen kept, their duties are similar to those of the first and second Coachmen, but their wages are somewhat lower, and the liveries, &c. not always quite so costly.

THE LADY’S FOOTMAN.

The chief business of this servant is to wait on his lady only, for whom he performs all the offices of a footman. He carries out all her messages and cards of invitation. He prepares the breakfast, and waits behind her chair both at breakfast and dinner—must be ready at all times to go out with his lady, either behind her carriage or on foot. For his more general duties, see the Directions to the Footman.

A genteel exterior and a good figure are principal recommendations of this servant; to which he should add great cleanliness in his person, and studied neatness in his dress. He is, of course, expected to assist the other servants in waiting at the dinner table, and to receive instructions through the lady’s maid, in whose out-door concerns he must officiate when required.

Wages 18l. to 25 Guineas—two liveries and a working dress.

THE UNDER FOOTMAN.

In families where two or more footmen are kept, the under footman is expected, and indeed, engages to do that part of the business of a footman, which is deemed the most laborious; that is, he cleans knives and forks—boots and shoes—carries up the coals and attends all the fires above stairs during the day. He likewise carries out cards, messages, &c. and assists to carry up and wait at dinner, &c. &c. Wages, 16 to 20 guineas, with liveries.

THE HALL PORTER.

The duties of this servant are confined to the entrance-hall, and the door, where he is continually stationed. He answers every knock and ring, takes in all messages, parcels, letters, cards, &c. and immediately hands them to the butler, who conveys them to his master or mistress.

He trims the great hall and passage lamps, and opens and fastens up the doors and shutters every morning and night.

The public character of a nobleman or gentleman often depends on this servant. Rude or contemptuous language, to the meanest applicant, will frequently prove injurious to the interests of his master, in ways of which he cannot be a competent judge; and, therefore, his best qualities are patience and good temper, to which may be added, secrecy in regard to the affairs, connexions, and intercourse of the family. A close tongue, and an inflexible countenance, are, therefore, indispensable, and he should practise the maxim of hearing and seeing all, but saying nothing. It is recorded of the porter of a minister of state, who died in the morning, that, on being asked in the afternoon if the fact were true, he replied that really he could not tell, but if the party would give him his card, he would make enquiry, and let him know. This was a well-trained porter, and such should be the system of all porters.

Wages from 24_l._ to 30_l._ per annum.

THE GROOM.

This, and indeed, every other person in the stable department, must rise about five in the summer, and six in the winter.

When the Groom has two or more horses under his care, with a chaise, or other vehicle or vehicles, he is generally allowed a boy to assist him in the stable.

We shall here insert the _general care and management of horses_, because in every stable establishment, however _small_, or however _large_, a Groom is to be found; and he ought to be fully competent to this branch of stable experience. In order to avoid repetition, we shall refer every other servant in this department, to this description of the usual care and management of horses.

The first thing, on entering the stable, is to give to each horse about a gallon of clean water in a clean bucket; then to shake up the best litter, under the manger, sweep out each stall, and clean out the whole stable. Every Coachman and Groom feeds his own horses;[24] and during the time of their feeding, he proceeds to _dress_ them: thus each horse is first curried all over, with the curry-comb, to loosen the dirt and dust on its skin; then brushed with a whalebone brush, to take the dust off; next whisped with straw, to smooth and cleanse its coat; and again brushed with the brush and curry-comb, to take off what dust may remain; after which the horse is whisped again with a damp lock of hay, and finally, rubbed down with a woollen rubber, or a clean cloth. The horse is then turned round in the stall, and his head is next brushed well and whisped clean and smooth, with a damp lock of hay. After this, his ears are drawn through the hands, for several minutes, till made warm, and then the insides of the ears are wiped out with a damp sponge, to remove such dust and filth as may have accumulated there. The sponge after being washed clean, is then applied to the eyes, to cleanse them from dust, and any exudation that may have arisen in them. The nostrils are also sponged clean, and the whole head is afterwards finished by rubbing it with a cloth, in the same manner as the body had previously been cleaned. The horse is then turned round into its proper situation, the head stall put on, and the dirt and filth that may have accumulated under its tail, are then washed away with a sponge. The mane and tail are next cleaned and laid with a mane comb and water brush, used alternately with both hands; the head and body are again wiped over, and the body clothes are put on and fastened with a surcingle.

The Groom next examines the horse’s heels, picks out the dirt from the feet, and washes its heels, with a water brush and plenty of water. If any horse has bad feet, they are then to be dressed and stuffed. Lastly, a due portion of hay,[25] (about three or four pounds) is shaken into the rack, and then the horse is considered as completely dressed.

This is a summary of the whole process of cleaning and dressing horses of every description.

Horses thus attended to, and regularly managed, under the humane superintendance of a diligent and conscientious Groom or Coachman, will have healthy and beautiful appearance, and in a great measure escape from many diseases to which they would otherwise be liable.

When the master rides out before breakfast, the Groom rises so much the earlier, so as to be able to get the horses for himself and master ready, and at the time appointed. In this case, he gives the horses not more than two quarts of water each, and about half their usual feed of corn. On their return from the morning ride, the Groom sponges the eyes and nostrils of the horses, and under their tails; picks out their feet, washes their feet and heels, and then otherwise cleans and dresses them in the usual way, as already described. When thus far dressed, it is necessary to hand-rub their legs, downwards, for about ten minutes, to prevent wind-galls, and to strengthen the back sinews.

When horses have been ridden hard, or have been a long journey, bandages must be wrapped round their legs, (from the knee to the fetlock joint) to prevent their swelling.

If their feet are heated, they must be stopped with the following mixture, called stopping: viz.

Mix equal quantities of cow-dung, clay, tar, and kitchen grease with
urine, to the consistency of a stiff paste. This is usually kept in a
small tub, or box, with a handle, to be ready when wanted.

The horses are then watered, fed, and littered down.

All horses when they come in, if they have sweated, or are very hot, must have their feet and legs first washed, and then be walked about ten or fifteen minutes, in the open air, till they are properly cool and dry; when they are to be well rubbed, and afterwards cleaned in the usual way. They should be encouraged to stale as soon as may be, by shaking a little straw under them, and whistling to them.

The saddles and bridles, with the bits and stirrups, are to be wiped when they are taken off, and are so left till the first opportunity, when they are to be thoroughly cleaned and put away.

If a gig, chaise, or other carriage has been used in the morning, it will require to be cleaned and got ready as soon as possible.

Such horses as are at home at twelve o’clock, are, at that hour, to be watered and fed again, and just wiped over, but not thoroughly cleaned, as in the morning; their manes and tails are, however, to be combed and properly _laid_ with the mane-comb and water brush.

When the Groom’s horses and carriages come in, in the evening, he attends to his horses first, washes their feet and legs and rubs them quite dry, before he cleans them. He afterwards cleans his gig, or whatever it may be by day-light, if there be time, or at any rate, he has to get his harness cleaned. About eight o’clock the stable man repairs to the stable, for the last time, cleans it out, waters, feeds, and rubs down the horses, litters them up, bandages their legs, stops their feet, (if necessary) and racks them up for the night.

Wages 22_l._ to 25_l._ with, generally, two livery suits, and two stable dresses a year.

TO MAKE OATS PROVE DOUBLY NUTRITIOUS TO HORSES.

Instead of grinding the oats, break them in a mill; and the same
quantity will prove doubly nutritious. Another method is, to boil the
corn, and give the horses the liquor in which it has been boiled;
the result will be, that instead of six bushels in a crude state,
three bushels, so prepared, will be found to answer, and to keep the
animals in superior vigour and condition.

SORES AND BRUISES.