Chapter IV: Preface (4)

Mix three pounds of flour with four ounces of moist sugar, half
an ounce of powdered ginger, and one pound and a quarter of warm
treacle; melt half a pound of fresh butter in it; put it to the flour
and make it a paste; then form it into nuts or cakes, or bake it in
one cake.

20. _Another Method._

Mix six pounds of flour with two ounces of caraway seeds, two ounces
of ground ginger, two ounces of candied orange peel, the same of
candied lemon peel cut in pieces, a little salt, six ounces of
moist sugar; melt one pound of fresh butter in about half a pint
of milk, pour it by degrees into four pounds of treacle, stir it
well together, and add it, a little at a time, to the flour; mix it
thoroughly, and make it into a paste; roll it out rather thin, and
cut into cakes with the top of a dredger or wine glass; put them on
floured tins, and bake them in rather a brisk oven.

21. CREAM CAKES.

Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, stir it gently with a
spoon lest the froth should fall, and to every white of an egg grate
the rinds of two lemons; shake in gently a spoonful of double refined
sugar sifted fine, lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a
spoon drop the froth in little lumps on it near each other. Sift a
good quantity of sugar over them, set them in the oven after the
bread is out, and close up the mouth of it, which will occasion the
froth to rise. As soon as they are coloured they will be sufficiently
baked; lay them by two bottoms together on a sieve, and dry them in a
cool oven.

22. CRUMPETS.

Set two pounds of flour with a little salt before the fire till quite
warm; then mix it with warm milk and water till it is as stiff as it
can be stirred; let the milk be as warm as it can be borne with the
finger, put a cupful of this with three eggs well beaten, and mixed
with three spoonsful of very thick yeast; then put this to the batter
and beat them all well together in a large pan or bowl, add as much
milk and water as will make it into a thick batter; cover it close
and put it before the fire to rise: put a bit of butter in a piece of
thin muslin, tie it up, and rub it lightly over the iron hearth or
frying pan; then pour on a sufficient quantity of batter at a time to
make one crumpet; let it do slowly, and it will be very light. Bake
them all the same way. They should not be brown, but of a fine yellow.

23. MUFFINS.

Mix a pint and a half of warm milk and water, with a quarter of a
pint of good yeast, and a little salt; stir them together for a
quarter of an hour, then strain the liquor into a quarter of a peck
of fine flour; mix the dough well and set it to rise for an hour,
then roll it up and pull it into small pieces, make them up in the
hand like balls, and lay a flannel over them while rolling to keep
them warm. The dough should be closely covered up the whole time;
when the whole is rolled into balls, the first that are made will
be ready for baking. When they are spread out in the right form for
muffins, lay them on tins and bake them, and as the bottoms begin to
change colour turn them on the other side.

24. COMMON BUNS.

Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, a little salt,
four ounces of sugar, a dessert spoonful of caraways, and a tea
spoonful of ginger; put some warm milk or cream to four table
spoonsful of yeast; mix all together into a paste, but not too stiff;
cover it over and set it before the fire an hour to rise, then make
it into buns, put them on a tin, set them before the fire for a
quarter of an hour, cover over with flannel, then brush them with
very warm milk, and bake them of a nice brown in a moderate oven.

25. CROSS BUNS.

Put two pounds and a half of fine flour into a wooden bowl, and set
it before the fire to warm; then add half a pound of sifted sugar,
some coriander seed, cinnamon and mace powdered fine; melt half a
pound of butter in half a pint of milk: when it is as warm as it can
bear the finger, mix with it three table spoonsful of very thick
yeast, and a little salt; put it to the flour, mix it to a paste, and
make the buns as directed in the last receipt. Put a cross on the
top, not very deep.

26. RUSKS.

Beat up seven eggs, mix them with half a pint of warm new milk, in
which a quarter of a pound of butter has been melted, add a quarter
of a pint of yeast, and three ounces of sugar; put them gradually
into as much flour as will make a light paste nearly as thin as
batter; let it rise before the fire half an hour, add more flour
to make it a little stiffer, work it well and divide it into small
loaves, or cakes, about five or six inches wide, and flatten them.
When baked and cold put them in the oven to brown a little. These
cakes, when first baked, are very good buttered for tea; if they are
made with caraway seeds they eat very nice cold.

27. ORANGE CUSTARDS.

Boil very tender the rind of half a Seville orange, and beat it in
a mortar until it is very fine; put to it a spoonful of the best
brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf sugar,
and the yolk of four eggs. Beat them all together for ten minutes,
and then pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream; beat them until
cold, then put them in custard cups, in a dish of hot water; let
them stand till they are set, then take them out and stick preserved
orange peel on the top; this forms a fine flavoured dish, and may be
served up hot or cold.

28. BAKED CUSTARDS.

Boil a pint of cream with some mace and cinnamon, and when it is
cold, take four yolks of eggs, a little rose water, sack, nutmeg, and
sugar, to taste; mix them well and bake them.

29. RICE CUSTARDS.

Put a blade of mace, and a quartered nutmeg into a quart of cream;
boil and strain it, and add to it some boiled rice and a little
brandy. Sweaten it to taste, stir it till it thickens, and serve it
up in cups, or in a dish; it may be used either hot or cold.

30. ALMOND CUSTARDS.

Blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, beat them very fine, and then
put them into a pint of cream, with two spoonsful of rose-water;
sweeten it, and put in the yolks of four eggs; stir them well
together till it becomes thick, and then pour it into cups.

31. LEMON CUSTARDS.

Take half a pound of double refined sugar, the juice of two lemons,
the rind of one pared very thin, the inner rind of one boiled tender
and rubbed through a sieve, and a pint of white wine; boil them for
some time, then take out the peel and a little of the liquor; strain
them into the dish, stir them well together and set them to cool.

32. ALMOND TARTS.

Blanch and beat fine some almonds, with a little white wine and
some sugar, (a pound of sugar to a pound of almonds,) grated bread,
nutmeg, cream, and the juice of spinach, to colour the almonds. Bake
it in a gentle oven, and when done, thicken with candied orange peel
or citron.

33. GREEN ALMOND TARTS.

Pull the almonds from the tree before they shell, scrape off the
down, and put them into a pan with cold spring water; then put them
into a skillet with more spring water; set it on a slow fire, and
let it remain till it simmers. Change the water twice, and let them
remain in the last till tender, then take them out and dry them well
in a cloth. Make a syrup with double refined sugar, put them into it
and let them simmer: do the same the next day, put them into a stone
jar, and cover them very close, for if the least air comes to them
they will turn black; the yellower they are before they are taken out
of the water, the greener they will be after they are done. Put them
into the crust, cover them with syrup, lay on the lid, and bake them
in a moderate oven.

34. ORANGE OR LEMON PIE.

Rub six oranges or lemons with salt, and put them into water,
with a handful of salt, for two days. Put every day fresh water
without salt, for a fortnight. Boil them tender, cut them into half
quarters, cornerways, quite thin: boil six pippins, pared, cored, and
quartered, in a pint of water till they break, then put the liquor to
the oranges or lemons, with half the pulp of the pippins well broken,
and a pound of sugar; boil them a quarter of an hour, then put them
into a pot and squeeze in two spoonsful of the juice of either orange
or lemon, according to the kind of tart; put puff paste, very thin,
into shallow patty-pans. Take a brush, and rub them over with melted
butter, sift double refined sugar over them, which will form a pretty
iceing, and bake them.

35. ORANGE TARTS.

Grate a little of the outside of a Seville orange, squeeze the juice
into a dish, put the peel into water, and change it often for four
days, then put into a saucepan of boiling water on the fire; change
the water twice to take out the bitterness, and when tender, wipe
and beat them fine in a mortar; boil their weight in double refined
sugar into a syrup, and skim it, then put in the pulp and boil all
together till clear; when cold put it into the tarts, and squeeze in
the juice, and bake them in a quick oven. Conserve of orange makes
good tarts.

36. ORANGE PUFFS.

Pare off the rinds from Seville oranges, then rub them with salt, let
them lie twenty-four hours in water, boil them in four changes of
water, make the first salt, drain and beat them to a pulp; bruise in
the pieces of all that are pared, make it very sweet with loaf sugar,
and boil it till thick; let it stand till cold, and then put it into
the paste.

37. ENGLISH MACAROONS.

One pound of sweet almonds, 1 pound and a quarter of sugar, 6 whites
of eggs, and the raspings of two lemons. Pound the almonds very fine
with 6 whites of eggs, feel the almonds, and if they are free from
lumps, they will do; then add the powdered sugar, and mix it well
with the lemon raspings. Dress them in wafer paper of the required
shape; bake them in a moderate heat, then let them stand till cold,
cut the wafer paper round them, but leave it on the bottoms.

38. FANCY BISCUITS.

Take 1 pound of almonds, 1 pound of sugar, and some orange flower
water. Pound the almonds very fine, and sprinkle them with orange
flower water; when they are perfectly smooth to the touch, put them
in a small pan, with flour sifted through a silk sieve; put the
pan on a slow fire, and dry the paste till it does not stick to
the fingers; move it well from the bottom to prevent its burning;
then take it off, and roll it into small round fillets, to make
knots, rings, &c., and cut it into various shapes; make an iceing of
different colours, dip one side of them in it, and set them on wire
gratings to drain. They may be varied by strewing over them coloured
pistachios, or coloured almonds, according to fancy.

39. SPONGE BISCUITS.

Beat the yolks of 12 eggs for half an hour; then put in a pound and a
half of beaten sifted sugar, and whisk it till it rises in bubbles;
beat the whites to strong froth, and whisk them well with the sugar
and yolks, work in 14 ounces of flour, with the rinds of 2 lemons
grated. Bake them in tin moulds buttered, in a quick oven, for an
hour; before they are baked, sift a little fine sugar over them.

40. FINE CHEESECAKES.

Put a pint of warm cream into a saucepan over the fire, and when it
is warm, add to it 5 quarts of new milk. Then put in some rennet,
stir it, and when it is turned, put the curd into a linen cloth or
bag. Let the whey drain from it, but do not squeeze it too much. Put
it into a mortar, and pound it as fine as butter. Add ½ a pound of
sweet almonds blanched, ½ a pound of macaroons, or Naples biscuit.
Then add nine well beaten yolks of eggs, a grated nutmeg, a little
rose or orange water, and ½ a pound of fine sugar. Mix all well
together.

41. ALMOND CHEESECAKES.

Put 4 ounces of blanched sweet almonds into cold water, and beat them
in a marble mortar or a wooden bowl, with some rose water. Put to
it 4 ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beat fine. Work it
till it becomes white and frothy, and then make a rich puff paste as
follows: Take ½ a pound of flour, and a ¼ of a pound of butter;
rub a little of the butter into the flour, mix it stiff with a little
cold water, and then roll out the paste. Strew on a little flour and
lay over it in thin bits 1-3d of the butter, throw a little more
flour over the bottom, and do the like three different times. Put the
paste into the tins, grate sugar over them, and bake them gently.

42. BREAD CHEESECAKES.

Slice a penny loaf as thin as possible, pour on it a pint of boiling
cream, and let it stand two hours. Beat together 8 eggs, ½ a pound
of butter, and a grated nutmeg: mix them into the cream and bread
with ½ a pound of currants well washed and dried, and a spoonful of
white wine or brandy. Bake them in patty pans, on a raised crust.

43. RICE CHEESECAKES.

Boil 4 ounces of rice till it is tender, and then put it into a sieve
to drain; mix with it 4 eggs well beaten up, ½ a pound of butter,
½ a pint of cream, 6 ounces of sugar, a nutmeg grated, a glass of
brandy, or ratafia water. Beat them all well together, then put them
into raised crusts, and bake them in a moderate oven.

44. APPLE CAKES.

Take half a quartern of dough, roll it out thin; spread equally over
it 5 ounces each of coffee and sugar, a little nutmeg or allspice,
and 2 ounces of butter; then fold and roll it again two or three
times, to mix well the ingredients. Afterwards roll it out thin,
and spread over it 4 rather large apples, pared, cored, and chopped
small; fold it up, and roll until mixed. Let it stand to rise after.
Half a pound of butter may be added.

45. BLANCMANGE.

Put into 1 quart of water an ounce of isinglass, and let it boil
till it is reduced to a pint; then put in the whites of 4 eggs with
2 spoonsful of rice water, and sweeten it to taste. Run it through
a jelly bag, and then put to it 2 ounces of sweet, and 1 ounce of
bitter almonds. Scald them in the jelly, and then run them through a
hair sieve. Put it into a china bowl, and the next day turn it out.
Garnish with flowers or green leaves, and stick all over the top
blanched almonds cut lengthways.

46. CLEAR BLANCMANGE.

Skim off the fat, and strain a quart of strong calf’s foot jelly,
add to the same the whites of 4 eggs well beaten, set it over the
fire and stir it till it boils. Then pour it into a jelly bag, and
run it through several times till it is clear. Beat an ounce each of
sweet and bitter almonds to a paste with a spoonful of rose water
strained through a cloth. Then mix it with the jelly, and add to it
3 spoonsful of very good cream. Set it again over the fire and stir
it till it almost boils. Pour it into a bowl; then stir it often till
almost cold; and then fill the moulds.

CONFECTIONARY.

————

47. TO PREPARE SUGAR FOR CANDYING.

The first process is _clarifying_, which is done thus. Break the
white of an egg into a preserving pan; put to it 4 quarts of water,
and beat it with a whisk to a froth. Then put in 12 pounds of sugar,
mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it boils put in a
little cold water, and proceed as often as necessary, till the scum
rises thick on the top. Then remove it from the fire, and when it is
settled, take off the scum, and pass it through a straining bag. If
the sugar should not appear very fine, boil it again before straining
it.

48. TO CANDY SUGAR.

After having completed the above first process, put what quantity is
wanted over the fire, and boil it till it is smooth enough. This is
known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, and touching it between
the forefinger and thumb; and immediately on opening them a small
thread will be observed drawn between, which will crystallize and
break, and remain in a drop on the thumb, which will be a sign of
its gaining some degree of smoothness. Boil it again, and it will
draw into a larger string; it is now called _bloom sugar_, and must
be boiled longer than in the former process. To try its forwardness,
dip again the skimmer shaking off the sugar into the pan; then blow
with the mouth strongly through the holes, and if certain bladders
go through, it has acquired the second degree: to prove if the
liquid has arrived at the state called _feathered sugar_, re-dip
the skimmer, and shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt
behind, and the sugar will fly off like feathers.

It now arrives to the state called _crackled sugar_, to obtain which
the mass must be boiled longer than in the preceding degree; then dip
a stick in it, and put it directly into a pan of cold water, draw off
the sugar which hangs to the stick in the water, and if it turns hard
and snaps, it has acquired the proper degree of crystallization, if
otherwise, boil it again until it acquires that brittleness.

The last stage of refining this article is called _caramel sugar_, to
obtain which it must be boiled longer than in any of the preceding
methods; prove it by dipping a stick first in the sugar, and then
into cold water, and the moment it touches the latter, it will, if
matured, snap like glass. Be careful that the fire is not too fierce,
as by flaming up the sides of the pan, it will burn, discolour, and
spoil the sugar.

49. _French Method._

Put into a pan syrup enough of clarified sugar to fill the moulds;
boil it until it comes to the state called _small feather_, skim it
well, take the pan from the fire, and pour it into a small quantity
of spirit of wine, sufficient to make it sparkle; let it rest till
the skin, which is the candy, rises on the surface; take it off with
a skimmer, and pour it directly into a mould; which keep in the stove
at 90 degrees heat for eight days; then strain the candy by a hole,
slanting the mould on a bason or pan, to receive the drainings;
let it drain till it is perfectly dry, then loosen the paper by
moistening it with warm water: warm it all round near the fire, and
turn the candy by striking it hard on the table. Put it on a sieve in
the stove, to finish drying it; but do not touch it while there, and
keep up an equal heat, otherwise there will be only a mash instead
of a candy. Spirit of wine will take off grease, and not affect the
candy, as it soon evaporates.

50. TO CANDY ANY SORT OF FRUIT.

When finished in the syrup, put a layer into a new sieve, and dip it
suddenly into hot water to take off the syrup that hangs about it:
put it into a napkin before the fire to drain, and then do more in
the sieve. Have ready sifted double refined sugar, which shake over
the fruit till covered quite white. Set it on the shallow end of the
sieve in a warm oven, and turn it two or three times. It must not be
cold till dry. Watch it carefully.

51. BARLEY SUGAR.

Take a quantity of clarified sugar in that state that on dipping the
finger into the pan the sugar which adheres to it will break with a
slight noise; this is called _crack_. When the sugar is near this,
put in two or three drops of lemon juice, or a little vinegar to
prevent its graining. When it has come to the _crack_, take it off
instantly, and dip the pan into cold water, to prevent its burning;
let it stand a little, and then pour it on a marble which must be
previously rubbed with oil. Cut the sugar into small pieces, when it
will be ready for use. One drop of citron will flavour a considerable
quantity.

52. BON-BONS.

Provide leaden moulds, which must be of various shapes, and be oiled
with oil of sweet almonds. Take a quantity of brown sugar syrup in
the proportion to their size, in that state called a _blow_, which
may be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, shaking it, and
blowing through the holes, when parts of light may be seen: add a
drop of any esteemed essence. If the _bon-bons_ are preferred white,
when the sugar has cooled a little, stir it round the pan till it
grains, and shines on the surface; then pour it into a funnel and
fill the little moulds, when it will take a proper form and harden:
as soon as it is cold take it from the moulds; dry it two or three
days, and put it upon paper. If the _bon-bons_ are required to be
coloured, add the colour just as the sugar is ready to be taken off
the fire.

53. CANDIED GINGER.

Put 1 ounce of race ginger grated fine, a pound of loaf sugar beat
fine, into a preserving pan, with as much water as will dissolve the
sugar. Stir them well together over a slow fire till the sugar begins
to boil. Then stir in another pound of sugar, beat fine, and keep
stirring it till it grows thick. Then take it off the fire, and drop
it in cakes upon earthen dishes. Set them in a warm place to dry,
when they will become hard and brittle, and look white.

54. CANDIED HOREHOUND.

Boil it in water until the juice is extracted: then boil a sufficient
quantity of sugar to a great height, and add the juice to it. Stir it
with a spoon against the sides of the sugar pan, till it begins to
grow thick, then pour it out into a paper case that is dusted with
fine sugar, and cut it into squares; dry the horehound, and put it
into the sugar finely powdered and sifted.

55. WHITE SUGAR CANDY.

Sugar crystallized by the saturated syrup being left in a very warm
place, from 90 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and the shooting promoted
by placing sticks, or a net of threads at some distances from each
other in the liquor: it is also deposited from compound syrup, and
does not retain any of the foreign substances with which it is loaded.

56. TO CLARIFY LOAF SUGAR.

Break the same into a copper pan, which will hold 1-3d more, put half
a pint of water to each pound of sugar, mix one white of egg to every
6 pounds; when it rises in boiling, throw in a little cold water,
which must be kept ready in case it should boil over; skim it the
fourth time of rising; continue to throw in a little cold water each
time till the scum ceases to rise, and strain it through a sieve,
cloth, or flannel bag. Save the scum, which, when a certain quantity
is taken off, may be clarified. The latter skimming will do to add to
fermented wines.

57. TO CLARIFY COARSE BROWN SUGAR.

Put 50 pounds of coarse brown sugar into a pan, which will contain
1-3d more, pour in 20 pints of water, well mixed with 5 whites of
eggs; pound 5 pounds of small charcoal, mix it in the pan while on
the fire, and boil it till it looks as black as ink. If it rises too
fast, add cold water, strain it through a bag, and though at first it
will be black, continue to strain it until it becomes quite clear;
which may be seen by putting the syrup in a glass. Put it back until
it comes out as fine as clarified loaf sugar.

58. TO IMPROVE AND INCREASE SUGAR.

To 5 pounds of coarse brown sugar, add 1 pound of flour, and there
will be obtained 6 pounds of sugar worth 10 per cent. more in colour
and quality.

59. TO CANDY ORANGE PEEL.

Soak the peels in cold water, which change frequently till they lose
their bitterness; then put them into syrup till they become soft and
transparent. Then they are to be taken out and drained.

60. CANDIED LEMON PEEL.

This is made by boiling lemon peel with sugar, and then exposing to
the air until the sugar crystallizes.

61. TO COLOUR CANDIED SUGAR.

_Red._—Boil an ounce of cochineal in half a pint of water for 5
minutes, add an ounce of cream of tartar, half an ounce of pounded
alum, and boil them on a slow fire 10 minutes; if it shows the colour
clear on white paper, it is sufficient. Add two ounces of sugar, and
bottle it for use.

_Blue._—Put a little warm water in a plate, and rub an indigo-stone
in it till the colour has come to the tint required.

_Yellow._—Rub with some water a little gamboge on a plate, or infuse
the heart of a yellow lily flower, with milk-warm water.

_Green._—Boil the leaves of spinach about a minute in a little water,
and, when strained, bottle the liquor for use. In colouring refined
sugars, taste and fancy must guide.

62. DEVICES IN SUGAR.

Steep gum-tragacanth in rose-water, and with double refined sugar
make it into a paste, and colour and mould it to fancy.

63. WHIPT SYLLABUB.

Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a lemon, and put it into a
pint of thick cream, and sweeten it to taste. Squeeze in the juice of
a lemon, and add a glass of Madeira wine, or French brandy. Mill it
to a froth with a chocolate mill, take off the froth as it rises, and
lay it in a hair sieve. Fill one half of the glass with red wine,
then lay the froth as high as possible, but take care that it is well
drained in the sieve, otherwise it will mix with the wine, and the
syllabub be spoiled.

64. A SOLID SYLLABUB.

To a quart of rich cream put a quart of white wine, the juice of two
lemons, with the rind of one grated, and sweeten it to taste. Whip it
up well and take off the froth as it rises. Put it upon a hair sieve,
and let it stand in a cool place till the next day. Then half fill
the glasses with the scum, and heap up the froth as high as possible.
The bottom will look clear, and it will keep several days.

65. SNOW BALLS.

Pare and take out the cores of five large baking apples, and fill the
holes with orange or quince marmalade. Then take some good hot paste,
roll the apples in it, and make the crust of an equal thickness; put
them in a tin dripping pan, bake them in a moderate oven, and when
taken out, make iceing for them; let the same be a quarter of an inch
thick, and set them a good distance from the fire until they become
hardened, but be cautious that they are not browned.

66. CAPILLAIRE.

Mix six eggs well beat up, with fourteen pounds of loaf sugar,
and three pounds of coarse sugar. Put them into three quarts of
water, boil it twice, skim it well, and add a quarter of a pint of
orange-flower water: strain it through a jelly-bag, and put it into
bottles for use. A spoonful or two of this syrup put into a draught
of either cold or warm water, makes it drink exceedingly pleasant.

67. CONFECTIONARY DROPS.

Take double refined sugar, pound and sift it through a hair sieve,
not too fine; then sift it through a silk sieve, to take out all
the fine dust, which would destroy the beauty of the _drop_. Put
the sugar into a clean pan, and moisten it with any aromatic; if
rose-water, pour it in slowly, stirring it with a paddle, which
the sugar will fall from, as soon as it is moist enough, without
sticking. Colour it with a small quantity of liquid carmine, or any
other colour, ground fine. Take a small pan with a lip, fill it three
parts with paste, place it on a small stove, the half hole being
of the size of the pan, and stir the sugar with a little ivory or
bone handle, until it becomes liquid. When it almost boils, take it
from the fire and continue to stir it: if it be too moist, take a
little of the powdered sugar, and add a spoonful to the paste, and
stir it till it is of such a consistence as to run without too much
extension. Have a tin plate, very clean and smooth; take the little
pan in the left hand, and hold in the right a bit of iron, copper,
or silver wire, four inches long, to take off the drop from the lip
of the pan, and let it fall regularly on the tin plate; two hours
afterwards, take off the drops with the blade of a knife.

68. CHOCOLATE DROPS.

Scrape the chocolate to powder, and put an ounce to each pound of
sugar; moisten the paste with clear water, work it as above, only
take care to use all the paste prepared, as, if it be put on the
fire a second time, it greases, and the drop is not of the proper
thickness.

69. ORANGE-FLOWER DROPS.

These are made as the sugar drops, only using orange-flower water,
or, instead of it, use the essence of naroli, which is the essential
oil of that flower.

70. COFFEE DROPS.

An ounce of coffee to a pound of sugar will form a strong decoction:
when cleared, use it to moisten the sugar, and then make the drops as
above.

71. PEPPERMINT DROPS.

The only requisites to make these are, extreme cleanliness, the
finest sugar, and a few drops of the essence of peppermint.

72. CLOVE DROPS.

These are made as the cinnamon drops, the cloves being pounded, or
the essence used. Good cloves should be black, heavy, of a pungent
smell, hot to the taste, and full of oil.

73. GINGER DROPS.

Pound and sift through a silk sieve the required quantity of ginger,
according to the strength wanted, and add it to the sugar with clear
water. China ginger is the best, being aromatic as well as hot and
sharp tasted.

74. LIQUORICE LOZENGES.

Take of extract of liquorice,
double refined sugar, each 10 oz.
tragacanth, powdered, 3 oz.

Powder them thoroughly, and make them into lozenges with rose-water.

These are agreeable pectorals, and may be used at pleasure in
tickling coughs. The above receipt is the easiest and best mode of
making these lozenges. Refined extract of liquorice should be used:
and it is easily powdered in the cold, after it has been laid for
some days in a dry and rather warm place.

75. EXTRACT OF LIQUORICE.

The liquorice root is to be boiled in eight times its weight of
water, to one half; the liquor is then to be expressed, and, after
the fæces have subsided, to be filtered; it is then to be evaporated,
with a heat between 200° and 212°, until it becomes thickish; and,
lastly, it is to be evaporated with a heat less than 200°, and
frequently stirred, until it acquire a consistence proper for forming
pills. This is made into little pastilles, or flat cakes, often
bearing the impression of the places where they are made; and a bit
now and then put into the mouth, takes off the tickling of a cough.
It should be sucked to make it pleasant, as much of the juice taken
at a time is unpleasant.

76. LIQUORICE JUICE.

Take up the roots in July; clean them perfectly as soon as out of the
earth, then hang them up in the air, till nearly dry; after this cut
them into thin slices, and boil them in water till the decoction is
extremely strong; then press it hard out to obtain all the juice from
the roots. This decoction is left to settle a little, and when it has
deposited its coarser parts, pour it off into vessels, evaporate it
over a fire, strong first, but mild afterwards, till it becomes of
a thick consistence; then let the fire go out, and when the extract
is cool, take out large parcels of it at a time, and work them well
with the hands, forming them into cylindric masses, which cut into
such lengths as required, roll them over half-dried bay-leaves,
which adhere to the surfaces, and leave them exposed to the sun,
till perfectly dried. Great nicety is to be observed at the end of
the evaporation, to get the extract to a proper consistence without
letting it burn.

77. REFINED LIQUORICE.

That description of article which is vended in thin, rounded, and
glazed pieces, about the thickness of a crow’s quill, is entirely
prepared in this country. The whole process consists in evaporating
the liquorice-ball anew, and purifying it by rest, with the help of
isinglass, &c.

78. CANDIED ORANGE MARMALADE.

Cut the clearest Seville oranges into two, take out all the juice
and pulp into a basin, and pick all the skins and seeds out of it.
Boil the rinds in hard water till they become tender, and change the
water two or three times while they are boiling. Then pound them in a
marble mortar, and add to it the juice and pulp; put them next into
a preserving pan with double their weight in loaf sugar, and set it
over a slow fire. Boil it rather more than half an hour, put it into
pots: cover it with brandy paper, and tie it close down.

79. TRANSPARENT MARMALADE.

Cut very pale Seville oranges into quarters; take out the pulp, put
it into a basin, and pick out the skins and seeds. Put the peels
into a little salt and water, and let them stand all night, then
boil them in a good quantity of spring water until they are tender:
cut them in very thin slices, and put them into the pulp. To every
pound of marmalade put one pound and a half of double refined beaten
sugar; boil them together gently for 20 minutes; if they are not
transparent, boil them a few minutes longer. Stir it gently all the
time, and take care not to break the slices. When it is cold, put it
into jelly and sweetmeat glasses tied down tight.

80. BARBERRY MARMALADE.

Mash the barberries in a little water, on a warm stove; pass them
through a hair sieve with a paddle; weigh the pulp and put it back on
the fire; reduce it to one half, clarify a pound of sugar and boil it
well; put in the pulp and boil it together for a few minutes.

81. QUINCE MARMALADE.

Take quinces that are quite ripe, pare and cut them in quarters,
take out the cores, put them in a stew-pan with spring water, nearly
enough to cover them, keep them closely covered, and let them stew
gently till they are quite soft and red, then mash and rub them
through a hair sieve. Put them in a pan over a gentle fire, with as
much thick clarified sugar as the weight of the quinces; boil them
an hour and stir the whole time with a wooden spoon to prevent its
sticking; put it into pots, and when cold tie them down.

82. SCOTCH MARMALADE.

Take of the juice of Seville oranges, 2 pints,
yellow honey, 2 lbs.

Boil to a proper consistence.

83. HARTSHORN JELLY.

Boil half a pound of hartshorn in three quarts of water, over a
gentle fire, till it becomes a jelly; when a little hangs on a spoon
it is done enough. Strain it hot, put it into a well-tinned saucepan,
and add to it half a pint of Rhenish wine, and a quarter of a pound
of loaf sugar. Beat the whites of four eggs or more to a froth, stir
it sufficiently for the whites to mix well with the jelly, and pour
it in as if cooling it. Boil it two or three minutes, then put in the
juice of four lemons, and let it boil two minutes longer. When it is
finely curdled and of a pure white, pour it into a swan-skin jelly
bag over a China basin, and pour it back again until it becomes as
clear as rock water; set a very clean China basin under, fill the
glasses, put some thin lemon rind into the basin, and when the jelly
is all run out of the bag, with a clean spoon fill the rest of the
glasses, and they will look of a fine amber colour. Put in lemon and
sugar agreeable to the palate.

84. WHIPT CREAM.

Mix the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick cream, and half a pint
of sack, sweeten them to taste with double refined sugar. It may be
perfumed with a little musk or ambergris tied in a rag and steeped
in a little cream. Whip it up with a whisk, and some lemon-peel tied
in the middle of the whisk. Then lay the froth with a spoon on the
glasses, or basins.

85. PISTACHIO CREAM.

Beat half a pound of pistachio nut kernels in a mortar with a
spoonful of brandy. Put them into a pan with a pint of good cream
and the yolks of two eggs beaten fine. Stir it gently over the fire
till it grows thick, and then put it into a China soup plate. When it
is cold stick it over with small pieces of the nuts, and send it to
table.

86. ICE CREAM.

To a pound of any preserved fruit add a quart of good cream, squeeze
the juice of two lemons into it and some sugar to taste. Let the
whole be rubbed through a fine hair sieve, and if raspberry,
strawberry, or any red fruit, add a little cochineal to heighten the
colour: have the freezing pot nice and clean; put the cream into it
and cover it; then put it into the tub with ice beat small, and some
salt; turn the freezing pot quick, and as the cream sticks to the
sides, scrape it down with an ice-spoon, and so on till it is frozen.
The more the cream is worked to the side with the spoon, the smoother
and better flavoured it will be. After it is well frozen, take it out
and put it into ice shapes with salt and ice: then carefully wash the
shapes for fear of any salt adhering to them; dip them in lukewarm
water and send them to table.

87. _Another Method._

Bruise two pottles of strawberries in a basin with half a pint of
good cream, a little currant jelly, and some cold clarified sugar;
rub this well through the tammy, and put it in an ice pot well
covered; then set it in a tub of broken ice with plenty of salt; when
it grows thick about the sides, stir it with a spoon, and cover it
close again till it is perfectly frozen through; cover it well with
ice and salt both under and over, and when it is frozen change it
into a mould and cover well with ice. Sweeten a little plain cream
with sugar and orange flower water, and treat it the same; likewise
any other fruit, without cream, may be mixed as above. This is called
_water ice_.

88. CURRANT JELLY.

Take the juice of red currants, 1 lb.
sugar, 6 oz.
Boil down.

89. _Another Method._

Take the juice of red currants, and
white sugar, equal quantities.
Stir it gently and smoothly for three hours, put it into glasses,
and in three days it will concrete into a firm jelly.

90. BLACK CURRANT JELLY.

Put to ten quarts of ripe dry black currants, one quart of water; put
them in a large stew-pot, tie paper close over them, and set them for
two hours in a cool oven. Squeeze them through a fine cloth, and add
to every quart of juice a pound and a half of loaf sugar broken into
small pieces. Stir it till the sugar is melted; when it boils skim it
quite clean. Boil it pretty quick over a clear fire, till it jellies,
which is known by dipping a skimmer into the jelly and holding it in
the air; when it hangs to the spoon in a drop, it is done. If the
jelly is boiled too long it will lose its flavour and shrink very
much. Pour it into pots, cover them with brandy papers, and keep them
in a dry place. Red and white jellies are made in the same way.

91. APPLE JELLY.

Take of apple juice strained, 4 lbs.
sugar, one pound.
Boil to a jelly.

92. STRAWBERRY JELLY.

Take of the juice of strawberries, 4 lbs.
sugar, 2 lbs.
Boil down.

93. GOOSEBERRY JELLY.

Dissolve sugar in about half its weight of water, and boil; it will
be nearly solid when cold; to this syrup add an equal weight of
gooseberry juice, and give it a boil, but not long, for otherwise it
will not fix.

94. RASPBERRY CREAM.

Rub a quart of raspberries through a hair sieve, and take out the
seeds and mix it well with cream; sweeten it with sugar to your
taste, then put it into a stone jug, and raise a froth with a
chocolate mill. As the froth rises, take it off with a spoon, and lay
it upon a hair sieve. When there is as much froth as wanted, put what
cream remains in a deep China dish, and pour the frothed cream upon
it, as high as it will lie on.

95. RASPBERRY JAM.

Mash a quantity of fine ripe dry raspberries, strew on them their own
weight of loaf sugar, and half their weight of white currant juice.
Boil them half an hour over a clear slow fire, skim them well, and
put them into pots or glasses; tie them down with brandy papers, and
keep them dry. Strew on the sugar as quick as possible after the
berries are gathered, and in order to preserve their flavour, they
must not stand long before boiling them.

96. STRAWBERRY JAM.

Bruise very fine some scarlet strawberries, gathered when quite ripe,
and put to them a little juice of red currants. Beat and sift their
weight in sugar, strew it over them, and put them into a preserving
pan. Set them over a clear slow fire, skim them, then boil them 20
minutes, and put them into glasses.

97. RASPBERRY PASTE.

Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half and put the juice to the
other half; boil them a quarter of an hour, put to them a pint of red
currant juice, and let them boil all together, till the raspberries
are done enough. Then put a pound and a half of double refined sugar
into a clean pan, with as much water as will dissolve it; boil it to
a sugar again; then put in the raspberries and juice, scald and pour
them into glasses. Put them into a stove to dry, and turn them when
necessary.

98. DAMSON CHEESE.

Boil the fruit in a sufficient quantity of water to cover it; strain
the pulp through a very coarse hair sieve; to each pound add four
ounces of sugar. Boil till it begins to candy on the sides, then pour
it into tin moulds. Other kinds of plums may be treated in the same
way, as also cherries, and several kinds of fruit.

99. AN OMELETTE SOUFFLE.

Put two ounces of the powder of chestnuts into a skillet, then add
two yolks of new laid eggs, and dilute the whole with a little cream,
or even a little water; when this is done, and the ingredients well
mixed, leaving no lumps, add a bit of the best fresh butter, about
the size of an egg, and an equal quantity of powdered sugar; then
put the skillet on the fire, and keep stirring the contents; when
the cream is fixed and thick enough to adhere to the spoon, let it
bubble up once or twice, and take it from the fire; then add a third
white of an egg to those you have already set aside, and whip them
to the consistency of snow: then amalgamate the whipped whites of
eggs and the cream, stirring them with a light and equal hand, pour
the contents into a deep dish, sift over with double refined sugar,
and place the dish on a stove, with a fire over it as well as under,
and in a quarter of an hour the cream will rise like an _omelette
souffle_; as soon as it rises about four inches it is fit to serve up.

100. ORGEAT PASTE.

Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of sweet, and a quarter
of a pound of bitter almonds; pound them in a mortar, and wet them
sufficiently with orange flower water, that they may not oil. When
they are pounded fine, add three quarters of a pound of fine powdered
sugar to them, and mix the whole in a stiff paste, which put into
pots for use. It will keep six months; when wanted to be used, take a
piece about the size of an egg, and mix it with half a pint of water,
and squeeze it through a napkin.

101. PATE DE GUIMAUVE.

Take of decoction of marshmallow roots, 4 oz.
water, 1 gallon.
Boil 4 pints and strain: then add gum arabic, half a pound, refined
sugar, 2 lbs. Evaporate to an extract, then take it from the fire,
stir it quickly with the whites of twelve eggs, previously beaten to
a froth: then add, while stirring, half an oz. of orange-flower water.

102. _Another._

Take of very white gum arabic, and white sugar, each 2¼ lbs. with a
sufficient quantity of boiling water. Dissolve, strain, and evaporate
without boiling, to the consistence of honey: beat up the whites
of six eggs with four drachms of orange-flower water, which mix
gradually with the paste, and evaporate over a slow fire, stirring it
continually till it will not stick to the fingers, it should be very
light, spongy, and extremely white.

103. PATE DE JUJUBES.

Take of raisins stoned, 1 lb.
currants picked,
jujubes, opened, each 4 oz.
water, a sufficient quantity.
Boil; strain with expression, add sugar, 2½ lbs. gum arabic, 2½
lbs. previously made into a mucilage with some water, and strain;
evaporate gently, pour into moulds, finish by drying in a stove and
then divide it.

TO PRESERVE FRUITS.

————

Some rules are necessary to be observed in this branch of confectionary.

In the first place, observe, in making syrups, that the Sugar is well dissolved before it is placed on the fire, otherwise the scum will not rise well, nor the fruit obtain its best colour.

When stone fruits are preserved, cover them with mutton suet rendered, to exclude the air; as air is sure to ruin them.

All wet sweet-meats must be kept dry and cool to preserve them from mouldiness and damp.

Dip a piece of writing paper in brandy, lay it close upon the sweetmeats, cover them tight with paper, and they will keep well for any length of time; but they will inevitably spoil without these precautions.

104. TO BOTTLE DAMSONS.

Put damsons, before they are too ripe, into wide-mouthed bottles, and
cork them down tight; then put them into a moderately heated oven,
and about three hours will do them; observe that the oven is not
too hot, otherwise it will make the fruit fly. All kinds of fruits
that are bottled may be done in the same way, and they will keep two
years; after they are done, they must be put away with the mouth
downward, in a cool place, to keep them from fermenting.

105. TO PRESERVE BARBERRIES.

Set an equal quantity of barberries and sugar in a kettle of boiling
water, till the sugar is melted and the barberries quite soft; let
them remain all night. Put them next day into a preserving pan, and
boil them fifteen minutes, then put them into jars, tie them close,
and set them by for use.

106. GRAPES.

Take close bunches, whether white or red, not too ripe, and lay them
in a jar. Put to them a quarter of a pound of sugar candy, and fill
the jar with common brandy. Tie them up close with a bladder, and set
them in a dry place.

107. TO DRY CHERRIES.

Having stoned the desired quantity of morello cherries, put a pound
and a quarter of fine sugar to every pound; beat and sift it over the
cherries, and let them stand all night. Take them out of their sugar,
and to every pound of sugar, put two spoonsful of water. Boil and
skim it well, and then put in the cherries; boil the sugar over them,
and next morning strain them, and to every pound of syrup put half a
pound more sugar; boil it till it is a little thicker, then put in
the cherries and let them boil gently. The next day strain them, put
them in a stove and turn them every day till they are dry.

108. TO CLARIFY HONEY.

The best kind is clarified by merely melting it in a water bath,
and taking off the scum; the middling kind by dissolving it in
water, adding the white of an egg to each pint of the solution; and
boiling it down to its original consistence, skimming it from time
to time. The inferior kind requires solution in water, boiling the
solution with one pound of charcoal, to 25 pounds of honey, adding,
when an excess of acid is apprehended, a small quantity of chalk
or oyster-shell powder; next by straining it several times through
flannel, and reducing the solution to its original consistence by
evaporation.

109. TO PRESERVE CANDIED ORANGE FLOWERS.

Free them from their cups, stamina, and pistils, put four ounces into
one pound of sugar boiled to a candy height, and poured on a slab, so
as to be formed into cakes.

110. TO PRESERVE FRUITS IN BRANDY, OR OTHER SPIRITS.

Gather plums, apricots, cherries, peaches, and other juicy fruits,
before they are perfectly ripe, and soak them for some hours in
hard, or alum water, to make them firm; as the moisture of the fruit
weakens the spirit, it ought to be strong, therefore, add five ounces
of sugar to each quart of spirit.

111. SEVILLE ORANGES, WHOLE.