Chapter IX: Preface (9)

Two table-spoonsful of mushroom catsup added to this instead of the
milk, will make an excellent sauce for _fish_, _flesh_, or _fowl_,
and particularly for _chops_ and _steaks_.

If butter be oiled in melting, put in a spoonful of cold water and
stir it with a spoon; or pour it forward and backward from the
saucepan to the boat, till it is come again.

LEMON SAUCE.

Pare a lemon, cut it into thick slices, and divide these into small
squares or dice, which mix with a quarter of a pint of melted butter.

PARSLEY AND BUTTER.

Wash and pick the parsley, very carefully, boil it ten minutes with a
tea-spoonful of salt, in a little water, drain it, and bruise it to a
pulp, then mix it by degrees with about half a pint of melted butter.

N. B. Sauces of fennel, chervil, basil, tarragon, burnet, cress, &c.
may be made in the same way.

ANCHOVY SAUCE.

Pound three anchovies in a mortar with a bit of butter, rub it
through a hair-sieve, with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it
into half a pint of melted butter.

CAPER SAUCE FOR MUTTON.

To a quarter of a pint of melted butter put a table-spoonful of
capers, and nearly as much vinegar.

GARLIC SAUCE.

Pound two cloves of garlic and proceed as with the anchovy sauce.

SHALOT SAUCE,

Is made with three or four shalots pounded, and done in the same way.

_Browning_,

Is nothing more than pounded white sugar, melted over a slow fire,
with a little butter and water, till it begins to smoke and turn
brown, then diluted with more water, till about the consistence of
soy, and afterwards boiled, skimmed, strained, and preserved in well
corked bottles.

ALL PLAIN SAUCES, should taste only of the articles from which they take their names.

In COMPOUND SAUCES the several ingredients should be so nicely proportioned that no particular flavour should predominate.

Soy, walnut-peels, burnt treacle, or sugar, cayenne pepper, or capsicums, chilies, vinegar, pickled herrings, anchovies, sardinias, or sprats, are the bases of almost all the sauces to be found in the shops.

Never season too highly your sauces, gravies, or soups.

Cloves and allspice,—mace and nutmeg,—marjorum, thyme, and savory,—leeks, onions, shalots, and garlic,—need not be mixed together in the same preparation, when either of them will supply the place of the others.

In short, Cooks now know, by experience, that a much less number of ingredients are sufficient to give a finer flavour to sauces, &c. than was formerly used; because, in this age of refined taste, we have learnt to combine the _simply elegant_ with the _purely nutritious_.

_Salads._

These may be eaten at all seasons of the year; but they are most wholesome in the spring, when green herbs, of all kinds, are in the greatest perfection. They are, then, most efficacious, in cleansing, sweetening, and purifying the blood. But, though Salads in the winter act not so powerful as in the spring, yet, such as are to be had, retain all the properties or qualities of their nature, and the warmer kinds, in particular, being gentle, salutary, and most excellent stimulants, are well calculated to warm the stomach, and exhilarate the spirits.

The following are the principal herbs, or vegetables, used in English salads; viz.

Beet Root, Mint, Small Salading
Celery, Onions, which are
Chervil, Parsley, Turnip,
Chives, Radish, Common, Rape,
Corn Salad, ————–—, Turnip, Salad Radish,
Cucumber, Shalots, Mustard,
Garlic, Sorrel, Garden Cress.
Lettuce, Water Cresses, and

Balm, Dandelion, Nettle Tops, Sage, Spinage Tops, and Tarragon, are sometimes used.

Besides these, the French use many other articles as Salads, most of which being warm, exhilarating, and antiscorbutic, contribute greatly to their health and cheerfulness; viz.

Balm, Pennyroyal Tops, Dandelion,
Sage, Tarragon, Spinage Tops,
Nettle Tops.

Salad herbs should be used fresh from the gardens; but if grown stale, they must be refreshed in cold water. They must be carefully picked, and washed clean, and then shaken in a clean cloth to dry.

The ingredients generally used in mixing Salads are eggs boiled hard, and rubbed fine, oil, vinegar, mustard, pepper, and salt.

The adulteration of articles of provision is now so common, that the Cook will do well to be guarded against such impositions, by dealing with respectable tradesmen only.—The articles most frequently adulterated are bread, tea, brown sugars, coffee, mustard, pepper, and all other things that are to pass through the mill.

The Cook should take care to be amply provided with proper instruments, and kitchen utensils of all kinds, without which she can do nothing as it ought to be done. It will be necessary to have graduated glass measures, such as the apothecaries use, divided into tea-spoonsful and table-spoonsful,[14] and also graduated on their sides, according to the following figures, in order to measure quantities of fluids with accuracy.

No. 1. represents a glass, calculated to measure any quantity from
two drachms to eight ounces.

No. 2. From one drachm to two ounces.

No. 3. From half a drachm to one ounce.

Note.—Sixty drops or minims make one drachm.]

Scales and weights should also be kept at hand, not only for weighing heavy articles, such as butcher’s-meat, grocery, &c. but also such as will weigh small quantities with accuracy. (_See the Appendix._)

_Before breakfast_, or as soon as possible _after_, the Cook having seen that her assistants in the kitchen are getting forward all things preparatory to the principal dinner, and having also given the kitchen-maid directions for the servants’ dinner, her attention will next be directed to

_The Larder._

The situation of the Larder should be dry, airy, and shady; it should be well ventilated, and kept perfectly clean, cool, and free from smells of all kinds.

The freezing point, or about 32° of Farenheit’s Thermometer, is the most perfect temperature of the atmosphere for preserving animal food.

Moist and close weather is very bad for keeping meat, poultry, &c. A southerly wind is also unfavourable;—and lightning will quickly destroy it.

MEAT.

A large SAFE, pierced with holes on every side, to be hung up in an airy situation, would be a very valuable appendage to every Larder.

_Management of_ BUTCHER’S MEAT, &c. _before
it is dressed._

BEEF.

_Management._—When the meat first comes in, trim it neatly and carefully, by cutting out all the bloody parts and the fly-blowings, if any; cut out also the kernels in the thick end of the sirloin, in the fat of the rump, in the pope’s-eye, the thick fat of the buttock, and wherever else they are to be found. Cut off the skirt under the ribs, and as much of the suet from the sirloin and rump as will leave them handsome for dressing. Cut off also the spare suet in the loins of veal and mutton; and the spare fat of necks, or loins of mutton, makes much lighter puddings than suet. Be careful also to take out the pipe which runs along the chine-bone, and the pith which is in the back-bone in the sirloin, rump, &c.; the whole should then be wiped dry, all the holes filled up with salt, and the roasting pieces should be sprinkled with salt and hung up till wanted. In winter, the boiling meat, that is frozen, should be soaked in cold water, two or three hours before it is dressed; but the best way to thaw a roasting joint is to let it be in the warm kitchen several hours before it is put to the fire.

SALTING.

The boiling pieces, if the weather permit, will be the better for hanging a day or two before they are salted. In warm weather, it is best to let them lie an hour, rubbing well every part that is likely to be fly-blown, and then wiping them dry with a cloth, and having salt ready, rub it into every part, taking care to fill the holes where the kernels and skewers have been. Turn them and rub them well with the pickle every day, and in three or four days they will be fit to dress, if wanted. Wash all the boiling pieces before dressing; and its colour will be the better for soaking; but never wash roasting joints before they are dressed, as it robs them of their best juices and finest flavour; it is, therefore, much better to wipe them well with a dry cloth, and pare off the dry parts on the outside.

VEAL.

_Management._—Examine and trim the several joints when they come in;
take out the skewers and wipe all the parts dry, particularly round
the kidney and udder; cut out the pipe that runs along the chine-bone
in the loin and neck; take out the spine in the back-bone, and the
kernels in the leg and the chump end of the loin, and cut off the
skirt within the breast.

MUTTON.

_Management._—In warm weather, trim the meat as soon as it comes in,
as directed for beef: cut out the kernels in the leg, the chine, and
near the tail in the loin; cut out also the pipe that runs along the
chine-bone, and take out the pith in the chine; cut off the skirt
of the breast; wipe all dry with a clean cloth, and hang it up till
wanted.

LAMB.

_Management._—Lamb, whether in quarters or joints, should be managed
like mutton and beef, as directed.

PORK.

_Management._—Examine and trim it, when brought in, as you do all
other kinds of meat. Sprinkle the joints intended for roasting with
a little salt, to improve their relish. Cut the joints intended for
boiling into suitable pieces, and rub them well with salt as you put
them into the salting-pan.

VENISON.

_Management._—To prevent venison from tainting, take the kernel out
of the haunch, wash the whole with vinegar and water, then wipe it
quite dry, and dust it with ground ginger or pepper, to keep off the
flies.—Thus managed, it may be kept a fortnight.

_General Business of the_ LARDER.

Joints of meat, game, &c. should be hung where there is a current of dry air, till they are tender. If they be not kept long enough, they will be hard and tough;—if too long, they lose their flavour. Much loss is sustained by the spoiling of meat in warm weather; to prevent which, as far as possible, it must be turned daily, end for end, and wiped every morning and night, with a clean, dry cloth, to free it and keep it from damp and moisture. If it be feared that any of the ripe meat will not keep till wanted, it should be parboiled, or part-roasted, by which means it may be kept a day or two the longer. Pieces of charcoal should also be put over meat, and a plug of charcoal put into the vents of fowls, &c. a string being tied round their necks. Before dressing meat it must be well washed and wiped dry; except roasting-beef, the dry outsides of which must be pared off. When meat indicates the least degree of putridity it should be dressed with out delay, else it becomes unwholesome. In the latter case, however, even fish, as well as meat, may be reclaimed, by putting pieces of charcoal into the water with it, when boiled or parboiled.—Tainted meat may also be restored by washing it in cold water, and afterwards in strong chamomile tea, and rubbing it dry with a clean cloth; after which it may be sprinkled with salt, and suffered to remain till the next day, if necessary.

In frosty weather all meat should be brought into the kitchen over night, or at least several hours before it is to be dressed.

Early in the morning remove the cold meat into clean dishes; change also, all the broths, soups, gravies, stock, cullis, &c. that require it, into clean scalded stone-pans; and never leave any eatables in copper or brass vessels, for if touched with salt or vinegar, or any acid, and left wet, they will corrode and gather poison.

Turn and rub the meat that is in salt; after which let the Larder be well scoured and cleaned out.

Dried meats, hams, tongues, bacon, &c. must be hung up in a cool, dry place, otherwise they will become rusty.

Bread should be kept in an earthen pan, with a cover, to exclude the air;—it should not be cut till it is a day old.

The vigilant Cook, having attended to the minutiæ of the LARDER, and directed that the shelves and floor be well scoured and washed, and every part made perfectly free from smells, will next, if it be in her department, prepare to go to market, and consult her mistress or the housekeeper accordingly.[15]

Having seen that all the marketing is properly disposed of,—the parlour lunch, nursery and servants’ dinners getting forward, or got out of the way, then commences the _principal_ preparations for the day.

In families where great dinners are seldom given, it will be better, when it can be conveniently done, to make an arrangement, as to the principal dishes, a day or two, or more, before hand. The Cook should never quit her post, on such an occasion, as it requires not only great skill but the utmost attention and exertion to send up the whole of a great dinner, with all its accompaniments, in perfect order.

When there is an opportunity of getting forward the soups, sauces, and made dishes, on the preceding day, it should, by all means, be done; but if not, the soups, &c. should be forwarded early in the morning, and while these are preparing, the joints of meat, cutlets, and other articles should be trimmed, the poultry and game, &c. trussed and made ready for dressing; the vegetables picked quite clean, trimmed, and _well_ washed, and laid separate, in dishes or cullenders. The shalots, onions, sweet-herbs, spices, &c. should also be prepared, and laid quite at hand.

The _Bill of Fare_ being made out, and the hour of active operation approaching, the clock must be consulted, and the different articles prepared and laid to the fire, in succession, according to the times they will take, that all may be ready in due time.—A scene of activity now commences, in which you must necessarily be cool, collected, and attentive.—Have an eye to the roast meat, and an ear to the boils,—and let your thoughts continually recur to the rudiments of your art, which at this moment must be called into practical requisition. You will endeavour that every kind of vegetable, and of sauce, be made to keep pace with the dishes to which they respectively belong—so that all may go up stairs _smoking hot_ together, and in due order.

Let a clean cloth be laid on the kitchen-table, and with the _bill of fare_ for your guide, if neither housekeeper nor the butler be present, let the dishes, intended to be used, be placed on this table, exactly as they are meant to stand on the table in the dining-room, and let every article be taken off the table in the kitchen, by the footman, and proper assistants, in regular order, by which means the butler cannot fail to set them in their proper places above stairs.

In some families, the soups are sent up first; and next, after a few minutes, the fish, then the removes, vegetables, sauces, and the whole of the first course:—mean time the _entremets_, or second course, will be dished and sent up, precisely in the same way. This would be done in all families, at all times, were it not deemed necessary frequently to sacrifice convenience, comfort, and every other consideration, at the shrine of fashion and elegance of appearance.

When the dinner things are brought down, the meat must be removed into clean common dishes; and as many things, such as fricandeaus, stews, &c. may remain untouched, or can be made to do again, when tossed up afresh, in different ways; they must be taken out of the gravies, the garnish, &c. picked clean off them, and the meat put by in clean dishes, and covered with thin slices of bacon. These gravies, and those from the roast meats of different kinds, must all be saved in separate stone pans, as all things of this kind serve to make a _rich kitchen_, and may be converted or applied to various useful purposes. The soups that are left should be strained through sieves to take out the bread and other vegetable matters, which, if left in, would turn them sour.

What sweets are left, such as Blancmange, Jellies, &c. may be melted and run into smaller moulds or shapes, and made to do again. Such management as this is highly commendable in all families, as thereby you are at all times provided for _extra visiters_.

Potted Meats, Collared articles, Anchovies, Oysters and other shell-fish, mock Brawn, cold Hams, Tongue, Stewed Peas, Black Caps, Sweets of various kinds, and some sorts of Tarts, should also be kept ready for suppers and _extra occasions_.[16]

The kitchen fire being _reduced_, and made up for ordinary occasions,—The dishes and every other article that has been used in the course of the day, and particularly the _pots_, _kettles_, _sauce-pans_, and other _culinary utensils_, being all scoured, and made perfectly clean, dried, wiped out, and put in their proper places;—the dressers and tables scoured down, and the whole kitchen made quite clean and put into perfect order, the principal business of the day may be considered at an end, as little more, of consequence, will seldom be required on the part of the Cook, except what further attention the LARDER, in hot weather, may demand, before she retires.

_Useful Hints._

With the utmost attention of the Cook, she can gain no credit, if she send up more than one dish, with all its accompaniments, at a time, and that as quickly as possible.

_Old_ meats do not require so much dressing as _young_, because they may be eaten with the gravy in them.

_Pickled pork_ requires longer dressing, in proportion, than any other meat.

Hashes and minces should be only _simmered_, if boiled, they become hard.

Meat _hastily_ boiled or roasted is, thereby, made the more indigestible, and its juices are wastefully extracted.

The warmer the weather, and the staler the meat, the less time it will take in dressing.

When meat is _overdone_ it is spoiled, and the fault can never be corrected;—when neither _overdone_ nor _underdone_ it is most digestible and most nutritious;—and when thoroughly done, it eats short and tender.

In dressing Meats, be as correct as possible as to quantities, qualities, and time.

Meat that is not to be cut up till cold must be well done, particularly in the summer time.

The greatest skill of the best cook will avail nothing, unless the provisions are good.

The present taste is _simply to boil both carp and tench_; and serve up with plain or savoury sauce, or rather, with Dutch sour sauce, which does not destroy the flavour of the fish.

All fish should be sent up _as hot as possible_, and particularly the sauces. In fact, _all sauces_ ought to be set on the table _quite hot_.

Essence of anchovies is a very good fish-sauce, alone—or otherwise.

To prepare meat in a _hot-bath_ is a most excellent mode of cookery; as it makes it tender without the loss of its juices.

A conjuror or Papin’s digester is a very economical Utensil. It will dress a steak deliciously, with the addition of a little catsup, or with oysters, &c.—It boils water in a few minutes.

To keep meat hot, when done, take it up, set the dish over a pan of boiling water, put a deep cover over it, and throw a clean cloth over that.

Broiled beef steaks, mutton-chops, &c. should always be sent to the table _hot and hot_.

Whole peas are better than split peas for soup, in winter. It is a good practice to steep them an hour or more in cold water, before they are boiled.

_Wines_ and _spices_ should not be put into _soups_, _stews_, &c. too early, as the heat evaporates both the spirit and the flavour.

_Vermicelli_, when used in _soups_, &c. should not be suffered to remain in it more than fifteen minutes, as it will become a paste.

Dripping will do as well as butter to baste any thing.

A small quantity of cream is better than flour and water, in melting butter.

Much butter is not to be recommended on all occasions.

When the palate is become dull by frequent tasting, wash the mouth with milk;—or eat an apple.

A bit of bread stuck upon the point of the knife with which you peel or cut onions, will prevent their disagreeable effect on the eyes.

A kettle of water kept boiling, over a charcoal fire, will effectually prevent its deleterious effects in the room.

COALS. Judicious Cooks will perform their culinary operations with much less coal than those who erroneously conceive that the greater the fire, the greater the dispatch. _Time_, rather than a fierce fire, answers _best_ both for roasting and boiling meats.—Round coals are best for use, and small coal should never be thrown on a weak fire, as it will stop the progress of the air through the fire; and perhaps extinguish it. But small coal, or culm, a little wetted, and thrown at the back of a good fire, will become cinders or coke, and greatly improve it.

All the ashes of the kitchen and other grates should be sifted, and the cinders saved, to be used under the boilers in brewing and washing, or in the ironing stove.

A simple and excellent contrivance for sifting cinders may be purchased at the Ironmongers.

Omelets should be made to eat full and thick at the mouth. They should be sent up quite hot, after dinner, and are wholesome, and great favourites in most countries.

A little sugar much improves the taste of green peas.

Potted meats make excellent sandwiches.

Sandwiches should be neatly cut in mouthfuls, so as to be taken up with a fork.

_Maxims._

Do every thing in the proper time.

Keep every thing in its proper place.

Use every thing for its proper use.

Never use any boiling or stewing utensil, pot or pan, spit, cookhold, spoon, ladle, or skewer, sieve, tammy or pudding cloth, jelly bag, net, tape, or other kitchen article, that have not been well scalded or washed with boiling water, and thoroughly dried.

_The Cook’s Catechism._

_Browning_ A preparation of white sugar, browned over the fire, and
then diluted to the consistency of soy, for the purpose
of colouring soups, gravies, &c.

_Bechamel_ A simple white gravy or sauce

_To Braize_ To stew over a slow fire

_Consommé_ A rich soup or gravy consumed over the fire to the
consistency of a jelly, to be diluted and converted,
when wanted, into soup

_Cullis_ A rich _brown_ gravy, made in various ways, according
to the purpose for which it is intended

_Entrés_ Dishes for a first course

_Entremets_ Dishes for a second course

_Esculents_ } Animal or Vegetable food—any article that _or Edibles_} may be eaten

_Fricandeau_ A sort of Scotch collops

_Fricassee_ Fowls, rabbits, or other things cut to pieces and dressed
with a strong white sauce

_Garnishes_ Articles laid round a dish by way of ornament, and
generally, but not always, intended to be eaten
therewith

_Glaze_ A very rich sauce or gravy boiled to a thick substance,
and preserved in pots, to be laid on with a long-haired
brush, over high-seasoned dishes

_To Glaze_ To cover the outsides of hams, tongues, and all
stewed dishes, with glaze or braize, to give them a
rich appearance

_Harrico_ Veal, mutton, &c. stewed with vegetables

_Hot-Bath_ A pan or other vessel filled with water, and placed in
a pot, which is kept boiling over the fire, for the
purpose of scalding fruits, or preparing meats

_Maigre_ Soup, or any other dish, made without meat or gravy

_To Pass_ To dress a thing partially, by setting on, or shaking
it over the fire for a short time

_Ragoût_ Or stewing or boiling meat or other articles, to preserve
their juices

_To Sheet_ To line the inside of a dish with paste

_Stock_ A preparation from gravy meats, &c. always to be kept at
hand, for the purpose of making soup or gravy

We have now initiated our honest candidate for culinary fame, by regular and easy gradations, into the whole _arcana_ of the profession,—taught her to judge of the natures and qualities of provisions, and their comparative values;—the best seasons and methods of purchasing, and of managing undressed animal and vegetable food; and the general economy of the LARDER;—Have given her the plainest elementary principles and precepts, and a few of the most simple examples, for practice, in all the various branches of boiling, roasting, baking, broiling, frying, &c.—the best methods of making soups, gravies, sauces, and salads: and, lastly, the modern mode of preparing _a good dinner, with all its most approved accompaniments_. In fine, we have been anxious, not only to instruct the common cook in the rudiments, and all the ordinary operations of her art, but how to combine, both in principle and practice, the most elegant with the most useful results; so as to enable her to please both the man of taste and the man of temperance;—the economist and the epicure;—the whimsical and the wise;—those who eat to live, and those who live to eat.—Under the head Housekeeper, we have also given ample instructions for making PASTRY, CONFECTIONARY, PRESERVES, and PICKLES, which frequently fall within the province of the cook. The whole comprises, as it were in a nut-shell, a complete compendium of culinary knowledge, chiefly valuable for its comprehensive brevity, and which, we trust, will be found, by the ingenious practitioner, full as useful as many, more elaborate volumes, professedly written on this subject _only_, and published at not less, if not more than the whole price of this little Work.

_Dean Swift’s ironical directions to the Cook._

Although I am not ignorant, that it hath been a long time since the
custom began among people of quality to keep men cooks, and generally
of the _French_ nation; yet because my treatise is chiefly calculated
for the general run of knights, ’squires, and gentlemen both in town
and country, I shall therefore apply to you, Mrs. Cook, as a woman;
however, a great part of what I intend may serve for either sex: and
your part naturally follows the former; because the butler and you
are joined in interest; your vails are generally equal, and paid when
others are disappointed; you can junket together at nights upon your
own prog, when the rest of the house are a-bed; and have it in your
power to make every fellow-servant your friend; you can give a good
bit or a good sup to the little masters and misses, and gain their
affections: a quarrel between you is very dangerous to you both, and
will probably end in one of you being turned off, in which fatal
case, perhaps, it will not be so easy in some time to cotton with
another. And now, Mrs. Cook, I proceed to give you my instructions,
which I desire you will get some fellow-servant in the family to read
to you constantly one night in every week when you are going to bed;
whether you serve in town or country, for my lessons shall be fitted
for both.

If your lady forgets at supper, that there is any cold meat in the
house, do not you be so officious as to put her in mind of it; it is
plain she did not want it; and if she recollects it the next day,
say she gave you no orders, and it is spent; therefore, for fear of
telling a lie, dispose of it with the butler, or any other crony,
before you go to bed.

Never send up a leg of a fowl at supper, while there is a cat or a
dog in the house, that can be accused for running away with it: but
if there happen to be neither, you must lay it upon the rats, or a
strange hound.

It is ill house-wifery to foul your kitchen rubbers with wiping the
bottoms of the dishes you send up, since the table-cloth will do as
well, and is changed every meal.

Never clean your spits after they have been used; for the grease left
upon them by meat is the best thing to preserve them from rust; and
when you make use of them again, the same grease will keep the inside
of the meat moist.

If you live in a rich family, roasting and boiling are below the
dignity of your office, and which it becomes you to be ignorant of;
therefore leave that work wholly to the kitchen-maid, for fear of
disgracing the family you live in.

If you are employed in marketing, buy your meat as cheap as you can,
but when you bring in your accounts, be tender of your master’s
honour, and set down the highest rate; which, besides, is but
justice, for nobody can afford to sell at the same rate that he buys,
and I am confident that you may charge safely; swear that you gave no
more than what the butcher and poulterer asked. If your lady orders
you to set up a piece of meat for supper, you are not to understand
that you must set it up all; therefore, you may give half to yourself
and the butler.

Good cooks cannot abide what they justly call fiddling work, where
abundance of time is spent and little done: such, for instance,
is the dressing of small birds, requiring a world of cookery and
clutter, and a second or third spit, which by the way is absolutely
needless; for it will be a very ridiculous thing indeed, if a spit
which is strong enough to turn a sirloin of beef, should not be able
to turn a lark; however, if your lady be nice, and is afraid that a
large spit will tear them, place them handsomely in the dripping-pan,
where the fat of roasted mutton or beef falling on the birds, will
serve to baste them, and so save both time and butter: for what cook
of any spirit would lose her time in picking larks, wheat-ears, and
other small birds? Therefore, if you cannot get the maids, or the
young misses to assist you, e’en make short work, and either singe or
flay them; there is no great loss in the skins, and the flesh is just
the same.

If you are employed in marketing, do not accept a treat of a
beef-steak and a pot of ale from the butcher, which I think in
conscience is no better than wronging your master; but do you always
take that perquisite in money if you do not go in trust, or in
poundage when you pay the bills.

The kitchen bellows being usually out of order with stirring the fire
with the muzzle to save the tongs and poker, borrow the bellows out
of your lady’s bed-chamber, which being least used, are commonly the
best in the house; and if you happen to damage or grease them, you
have a chance to have them left entirely for your own use.

Let a blackguard boy be always about the house to send on your
errands, and go to market for you on rainy days, which will save your
clothes, and make you appear more creditable to your mistress.

If your mistress allows you the kitchen-stuff, in return for her
generosity take care to boil and roast your meat sufficiently. If she
keeps it for her own profit, do her justice, and, rather than let a
good fire be wanting, enliven it now and then with the dripping, and
the butter that happens to turn to oil.

Send up your meat well stuck with skewers, to make it look round and
plump; and an iron skewer rightly employed now and then will make it
look handsomer.

When you roast a long joint of meat, be careful only about the
middle, and leave the two extreme parts raw, which may serve another
time, and will also save firing.

When you scour your plates and dishes, bend the brim inwards, so as
to make them hold the more.

Always keep a large fire in the kitchen, when there is a small
dinner, or the family dines abroad, that the neighbours, seeing the
smoke, may commend your master’s house-keeping: but when much company
is invited, then be as sparing as possible of your coals, because a
great deal of the meat, being half raw, will be saved, and serve next
day.

Boil your meat constantly in _pump_ water, because you must sometimes
want river or pipe water; and then your mistress, observing your meat
of a different colour, will chide you when you are not in fault.

When you have plenty of fowls in the larder, leave the door open, in
pity to the poor cat, if she be a good mouser.

If you find it necessary to go to market in a wet day, take out your
mistress’s cloak, to save your clothes.

Get three or four chair-women to attend you constantly in the
kitchen, whom you pay at small charges, only with the broken meat, a
few coals, and all the cinders.

To keep troublesome servants out of the kitchen, always leave the
winder sticking on the jack, to fall on their heads.

If a lump of soot falls into the soup, and you cannot conveniently
get it out, stir it well, and it will give the soup a high French
taste.

If you melt your butter to oil, be under no concern, but send it up;
for oil is a genteeler sauce than butter.

Scrape the bottoms of your pots and kettles with a silver spoon, for
fear of giving them a taste of the copper.

When you send up butter for sauce, be so thrifty as to let it be half
water; which is also much wholesomer.

If your butter, when it is melted, tastes of brass, it is your
master’s fault, who will not allow you a silver saucepan; besides,
the less of it will go the farther, and new tinning is very
chargeable: if you have a silver saucepan, and the butter smells of
smoke, lay the fault upon the coals.

Never make use of a spoon in any thing that you can do with your
hands, for fear of wearing out your master’s plate.

When you find that you cannot get dinner ready at the time appointed,
put the clock back, and _then it may be ready to a minute_.

Let a red-hot coal now and then fall into the dripping-pan; that the
smoke of the dripping may ascend, and give the roast meat a high
taste.

You are to look upon the kitchen as your dressing room; but you are
not to wash your hands, till you have gone to the Privy, and spitted
your meat, trussed your fowl, picked your salad, nor indeed till
after you have sent up your second course: for your hands will be ten
times fouler with the many things you are forced to handle; but when
your work is over, one washing will serve for all.

There is but one part of your dressing that I would admit while the
victuals are boiling, roasting, or stewing; I mean, the combing your
head, which loseth no time, because you stand over your cookery, and
watch it with one hand, while you are using the comb with the other.

If any of the combings happen to be sent up with the victuals, you
may safely lay the fault upon any of the footmen that hath vexed you:
as those gentlemen are sometimes apt to be malicious, if you refuse
them a sop in the pan, or a slice from the spit, much more when you
discharge a ladle-full of hot porridge on their legs, or send them up
to their masters with a dish-clout pinned at their tail.

In roasting and boiling, order the kitchen-maid to bring none but the
large coals, and save the small ones for the fires above stairs: the
first are properest for dressing meat; and when they are out, if you
happen to miscarry in any dish, you may fairly lay the fault upon
the want of coals; besides, the cinder-pickers will be sure to speak
ill of your master’s house-keeping, where they do not find plenty of
large cinders mixt with fresh large coals: thus you may dress your
meat with credit, do an act of charity, raise the honour of your
master, and sometimes get share of a pot of ale for your bounty to
the cinder-woman.

As soon as you have sent up the second course, you have nothing to do
(in a great family) until supper: _therefore_ scour your bands and
face, put on your hood and scarf, and take your pleasure among your
cronies, till nine or ten at night—but dine first.

Let there be always a strict friendship between you and the butler,
for it is both your interests to be united: the butler often wants a
comfortable tit-bit, and you much oftener a cool cup of good liquor.
However, be cautious of him, for he is sometimes an inconstant lover;
because he hath great advantage to allure the maids with a glass of
sack, or white-wine and sugar.

When you roast a breast of veal, remember your sweet-heart the butler
loves a sweet-bread; therefore set it aside till evening; you can
say, the cat or the dog has run away with it, or you found it tainted
or fly-blown; and besides, it looks as well at the table without it.

When you make the company wait long for dinner, and the meat be
over-done, which is generally the case, you may lawfully lay the
fault upon your lady, who hurried you to send up dinner, that you was
forced to send it up too much boiled or roasted.

If your dinner miscarries in almost every dish, how could you help
it? You were teazed by the footmen coming into the kitchen; and to
prove it true, take occasion to be angry, and throw a ladle-full
of broth on one or two of their liveries; besides _Friday_ and
_Childermas-day_ are two cross days in the week, and it is impossible
to have good luck on either of them; therefore on those two days you
have a lawful excuse.

When you are in haste to take down your dishes, tip them in such a
manner, that a dozen will fall together upon the dresser, just ready
for your hand.

To save time and trouble, cut your apples and onions with the _same
knife_; well-bred gentry love the taste of an onion in every thing
they eat.

Lump three or four pounds of butter together with your hand; then
dash it against the wall just over the dresser, so as to have it
ready to pull by pieces as you have occasion for it.

If you have a silver sauce-pan for the kitchen use, let me advise
you to batter it well, and keep it always black; this will be for
your master’s honour; for it shews there has been constant good
house-keeping: and make room for the sauce-pan by wriggling it on the
coals, &c.

In the same manner, if you are allowed a large silver spoon for the
kitchen, let half the bowl of it be worn out with continual scraping
and stirring; and often say merrily, this spoon owes my master no
service.

When you send up a mess of broth, water-gruel, or the like, to your
master in a morning, do not forget, with your thumb and two fingers,
to put salt on the side of the plate; for if you make use of a spoon,
or the end of a knife, there may be danger that the salt would fall,
and that would be a sign of ill luck. Only remember to lick your
thumb and fingers clean, before you offer to touch the salt.

In this satire, much useful instruction is conveyed, and many faults exposed which could not be so well noticed in any other form. A valuable servant will, of course, not lay herself open to the Dean’s irony.

Above all things, a cook should avoid all cruelty, and no custom or usage should be an excuse for any practices, by which living and sensitive creatures are to be put to wanton and unnecessary torture.

————

N.B. In the previous article it has not been attempted to give a
detailed system of cookery, which alone would have filled a volume;
but the object has been so to condense as to give the substance
of the art in a few general rules, applicable to all cases, and
therefore more useful than detailed instructions, for, applied with
good sense, they cannot fail to make a COMPLETE COOK.

THE KITCHEN-MAID, OR UNDER COOK.

Cleanliness must be considered as the _first and leading principle_ of the kitchen-maid, as well as of the head cook and all other persons in any way employed in the business of the kitchen.

This servant has, in many families, the hardest place in the house. It is her business, under the superintendance of the cook, to take nearly the whole management of roasting, boiling, and otherwise dressing all plain joints and dishes, and all the fish and vegetables.—She is also, if there be no _scullion_, to keep the _kitchen_, _larder_, _scullery_, all the _kitchen utensils_, and every thing belonging to it perfectly clean,—in the best possible condition, and always fit for use. On the due performance of this important part of her business mainly depends the credit and character, not of herself only, but of the cook also; it therefore behoves the cook to see it properly done.

The kitchen-maid must always rise betimes, light the kitchen fire, and set on water to be heated for all the purposes of the family, the first thing she does.—She next scours the dressers and shelves, and the kitchen tables, with soap and sand, and hot water; and cleans up the kitchen: she then clears out and cleans the housekeeper’s room, the hall and passages, the front door, and area steps, the larder, and the butler’s pantry; in doing which, the scullion (if there be one kept) takes the dirtiest and most laborious part. She then prepares the breakfasts in the housekeeper’s room, and the servants’-hall. These things, if she be active, she will have accomplished before the cook begins to require her attention and attendance in the larder, in the furtherance of the culinary preparations; to which, however, she must have an eye, even from her earliest rising, particularly to the soups and other things, that require a long time to prepare.

After breakfast, if not before, the cook will require her assistance in the larder, and afterwards for the remainder of the day she will be occupied in the kitchen, under the direction of the cook; first, in preparing for the servants’ dinner, the dinner in the nursery, or elsewhere, and the lunch in the parlour; next in helping to get ready the family dinner; then in washing up and clearing away every thing, and cleaning up the kitchen; and lastly, in setting out and preparing the supper, either hot or cold, for the servants.

As the kitchen-maid generally fills her situation with the view of becoming a cook, at a future day, it behoves her to read with attention the foregoing _Directions to the Cook_, which contain the rudiments of the art, and which, if she attentively study, and practically apply, will enable her to attain such a proficiency in her business, as will render her a valuable acquisition to her future employers. [Wages from 12 to 14 guineas per year.]

Having given a full and adequate sketch of the theory and leading principles of the culinary art, and exemplified them in the practical duties of the cook and kitchen-maid, we shall conclude the subject with a brief outline of the duties of their humble and laborious assistant,

THE SCULLION, OR SCULLERY-MAID.

It is the business of this servant to light the fires in the kitchen range, and under the copper or boilers, and stew-holes—to wash up all the plates and dishes—scour and clean all the sauce-pans, stew-pans, kettles, pots, and all other kitchen utensils; and to take care that all the latter are _always kept clean_, _dry_, and _fit for use_. She is to assist the kitchen-maid in picking, trimming, washing and boiling the vegetables, cleaning the kitchen and offices, the servants’-hall, housekeeper’s room, and steward’s room; and to clean the steps of the front door and the area. She makes the beds for the stable men—and generally fetches, carries, and clears away for the cook and kitchen-maid, and otherwise assists in all the laborious parts of the kitchen business, [Wages from 8 to 12 guineas a year.]

TO CLEAN BLOCK-TIN DISH-COVERS, PEWTER POTS, &c.

Mix a little of the finest whiting, free from sand, with the smallest
drop of sweet oil; rub the outside well and wipe it clean, with
clean, dry soft linen rags.—Do the same to the inside, but wet with
water, not oil:—always wiping these articles dry immediately after
using them, and drying them by the fire, prevents their rusting, and
saves much trouble in cleaning them.

THE LADY’S MAID.

The business of the lady’s-maid is extremely simple, and but little varied. She is generally to be near the person of her lady; and to be properly qualified for her situation, her education should be superior to that of the ordinary class of females, particularly in needle-work, and the useful and ornamental branches of female acquirements. To be peculiarly neat and clean in her person and dress, is better than to be tawdry or attractive, as intrinsic merit is a much greater recommendation than extrinsic appearance. In her temper she should be cheerful and submissive, studying her lady’s disposition, and conforming to it with alacrity. A soft and courteous demeanour will best entitle her to esteem and respect. In fine, her character should be remarkable for industry and moderation,—her manners and deportment, for modesty and humility—and her dress, for neatness, simplicity, and frugality.

It will be her business to _dress_, _re-dress_, and _undress_ her lady; and, in this, she should learn to be perfectly _au fait_ and expeditious, ever studying, so far as it depends on herself, to manifest good taste, by suiting the ornaments and decoration of her dress to the complexion, habits, age, and general appearance of her person. Thus will she evince her own good sense, best serve her lady, and gratify all those who are most interested in her welfare and happiness. She should always be punctual in her attendance, and assiduous in her attention. Her’s will be the care of her lady’s _wardrobe_, and she should make that her _particular_ care; appropriating to each article of dress its proper place, where it always may be found when wanted. It will be her business carefully to examine every part of her dress, when taken off, and if they have sustained an injury, or acquired any spots or stains, immediately to clean and repair them;[17] then fold them up neatly, and put them away.

Her first business, in the morning, will be to see that the house-maid has made the fire, and properly prepared her lady’s dressing-room:—she then calls her mistress, informs her of the hour, and having laid out all her clothes, and carried her _hot water_, to wash, she retires to her breakfast with the house-keeper and other principal servants. When her lady’s bell rings, she attends her in her dressing-room,—combs her hair for the morning, and waits on her till dressed; after which, she folds and puts away her night-clothes, cleans her combs and brushes, and adjusts her toilet-table:—she then retires to her work-room, to be ready if wanted, and employs herself in making and altering dresses, millinery, &c. About one o’clock the family generally take their lunch, and the servants their dinner.—After this, she is again summoned to attend her lady’s toilet whilst dressing to go abroad. When gone, she again adjusts her clothes, and every thing in the room, and lays out and prepares the several articles that may be required for her dinner, or evening dress, and afterwards employs herself at needle-work in her own room, or in her other avocations, till her mistress returns to dress for dinner, perhaps about five, when she attends her for that purpose; and having done this, it may happen that no further attendance on her mistress’ person will be required till she retires to bed: meanwhile she employs herself at needle-work, as in the morning[18]—or else in the various occupations of getting up the fine linen, gauzes, muslins, cambrics, laces, &c. washing silk stockings, taking the spots or stains out of silks, &c. &c. for doing which the best receipts are annexed.

It is her business to see that the house-maid, or chamber-maid, empties the slops, keeps up the fires, both in this and the bed-room, (if wanted) and keeps the rooms in perfect order.—Previous to her mistress’ retiring for the night, she will have looked out her night-clothes, and aired them well; and she will, not only now, but at all times when she goes to dress, carry up _hot water_, for washing, &c. and when she is gone to bed, she will carefully examine all her clothes, and do all that is necessary to be done to them, before she folds them away. If her lady be elderly, infirm, or unwell, she will sometimes be required to bring her work, and sit with her, to administer her medicines, and sometimes to read to her. To qualify herself for this latter purpose, and to acquit herself with propriety, she will, at her leisure, practise reading aloud, from the best authors; as it is important to acquire a proper style and manner of reading, in all the varieties of poetry or prose, ode or epistle, comedy, or sermon; avoiding, alike, the dull monotony of the school girl, and the formal affectation of the pedant; but following nature as her guide, in all that appertains to emphasis, modulation, and delivery.

If acquainted with the superior branches of needle-work, she might afford her lady much gratification, in presenting her, occasionally, with such trifles as will be acceptable, and suitable ornaments for her person.—This will evince her disposition to be grateful and to oblige; and this, combined with a feminine sweetness of temper, and suavity of manners, cannot fail to be her sure recommendation to the esteem of her superiors and others, through all the various circumstances of life.—Wages, from 18 to 25 guineas per annum, with tea and washing.

As the duties of the lady’s-maid include the personal ornament, dress, and decoration of her mistress, we have availed ourselves of a work recently published, under the title of “_The Art of Beauty_,” and in the subsequent pages have introduced some important receipts and observations from that work; together with various approved receipts on other points of the lady’s-maid’s duty.

ROMAN BALSAM FOR FRECKLES OF THE SKIN.

Take one ounce of bitter almonds,
one ounce of barley flour,
a sufficient quantity of honey.
Beat the whole into a smooth paste, spread it thinly on the
skin at night, and wash it off in the morning.

The skin being thus prepared for the chemical remedies, you may
select any of the following, or try them in succession.

FRECKLE WASH.

Take one drachm of muriatic acid,
half a pint of rain water,
half a tea spoonful of spirit of lavender.
Mix, and apply it two or three times a day to the freckles,
with a bit of linen, or a camel-hair pencil.

PURIFYING WATER FOR THE SKIN.

Take one tea-spoonful of liquor of potass,
two ounces and a half of pure water,
a few drops of eau de Cologne.
Mix, and apply as before.

DR. WITHERING’S COSMETIC LOTION.

Take a tea-cupful of soured milk, cold,
scrape into it a quantity of horse-radish.
Let this stand from six to twelve hours, and strain, when it
may be used to wash the parts affected, twice or thrice a day.

PREVENTIVE WASH FOR SUNBURN.

Take two drachms of borax,
one drachm of Roman alum,
one drachm of camphor,
half an ounce of sugar candy,
a pound of ox-gall.
Mix, and stir well for ten minutes, or so, and repeat this stirring
three or four times a day for a fortnight, till it appears clear
and transparent. Strain through blotting paper, and bottle up for
use. Wash the face with it every time you go into the sunshine.

GRAPE LOTION FOR SUNBURN.

Dip a bunch of green grapes in
a basin of water, and then sprinkle it with
alum and salt, powdered and mixed.
Wrap it in paper, and bake it under hot ashes. Then express
the juice, and wash the face with it, and it will remove
sunburn, tan, and freckles.

LEMON CREAM FOR SUNBURN AND FRECKLES.

Put two spoonsful of sweet cream into
half a pint of new milk, squeeze into it
the juice of a lemon, add
half a glass of good brandy, and
a little alum, and loaf sugar.
Boil the whole, skim it well, and when cool, put it aside for use.

THE WORM PIMPLE WITH BLACK POINTS.