Chapter III: Preface (3)

Text size

_The Breast-cut._—Cut off thin slices, either parallel with the ribs, or across. The fat on the upper side is firm and gristly, that on the under side soft, and more delicate; therefore offer that which is best liked.

VEAL.—_The Fillet._ This is the joint similar to a round of beef. Cut off a slice from the upper surface, evenly, as from a round or edge-bone of beef, and this outside is often preferred. The next slices should be cut thin and smoothly. With every slice give a little fat, and some of the stuffing, which lies under the flap.

_The Breast._ Separate the ribs from the brisket, across, where the bones are broken, and again, the gristly part of the breast-cut from the ribs, in the same direction. Give some of the gristly part, with a bone of the ribs or neck, and a little of the sweetbread, cut across the middle, to each person.

_The Calf’s-head._ Every part of this joint is rich and delicious. Cut it lengthwise, from the nose to the neck, passing the knife through the flesh under the eye, quite to the bone, all the way. The throat sweetbread lies in the thick part of the neck end, and delicious short slices of it may be taken off from the lower side, crosswise, to be given with the former. The eye is esteemed a great delicacy and may be taken out with the point of a knife, and divided into two parts. Some fine lean will be found under the jaw-bone, when taken off, and the palate in the lower or under part of the head is deemed a dainty. Both sides of the head are to be carved alike. A part of the tongue and brains, which are usually served up in a separate dish, with egg sauce, must be given to each person.

MUTTON.—_The Shoulder._ This joint should be sent to table with the back upwards, and with paper twisted round the shank. When properly roasted, it is very full of gravy, and has many nice parts. The first cut should be made in the thin, hollow part, and several slices may be taken thence. When that is all cut away, some fine slices may be taken from both sides of the ridge of the blade-bone, cutting straight up the back from the thick end towards the shank. The under side affords several nice cuts of fat and lean intermixed, and is full of gravy. Some prefer the jelly part near the knuckle;—the lean on the under side of the blade-bone, is the most tender. The fat lies in the round prominent part or flap, opposite the hollow part of the shoulder, which is cut lengthwise and a thin bit of this should be given to each person.—A shoulder of mutton _over_ roasted is _spoiled_.

_The Leg._ When boiled, it should be served up lying on its back; but when roasted, with the back upwards. Cut into the hollow part a little distant from the knuckle, through the pope’s-eye, quite to the bone, and take out thin deep slices towards the thickest part. The back of the leg affords some nice slices at the thick end, which must be cut out the long way of the joint.—Slices of fat may also be taken from the under side, or back part of the leg, in the same direction. Some prefer the knuckle part, which, though dry, is full of jelly and very nutricious. The cramp-bone forms a slight prominence at the back of the leg, near the shank, and may be cut out by passing the knife round it. As this is a heavy joint, some writing paper should be wrapped round the shank, to enable the carver the better to turn it up, with his left hand.

_The Haunch_, is to be carved in the same manner as venison.

_The Saddle_, is the two loins together. Cut out long thin slices on each side of the chine-bone, from the tail to the end. If any person like a part of the tail, it may be readily divided, the joints being about an inch apart. Rich gravy is found in the cut along the chine-bone, where the incision has been made.

_The Loin_ may be carved the same way; or it may be cut the other way, in the direction of the bones.

LAMB.—_The Fore-quarter._ Separate the shoulder from the ribs or breast, (by some called the crust or scoven,) taking care not to leave the bones bare. Then squeeze half a lemon or Seville orange, rub a slice of butter, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the ribs, and replace the shoulder for a few moments; after which, put the shoulder on another dish; and proceed to divide the neck from the breast, where the bones have been previously broken; then separate the gristly part from the breast, the whole length, and give a little of the gristle with each bone of the breast or neck, as may be chosen. If any part of the breast is to be put by to be eaten cold, let it be sprinkled while hot, with chopped parsley. All parts of young lamb are nice, but the shoulder of a fore-quarter is the least approved. It is to be carved as mutton.

_The Hind-quarter_, is usually divided into the leg and loin, and is to be carved as mutton. The close firm flesh about the knuckle is reckoned the best.

PORK.—_The Leg_, whether roasted or boiled, is sent to table with the back upwards, like a leg of mutton roasted: it is to be carved as mutton.

A HAM may be carved three several ways; viz. The _first_ and most common way is to cut off the hock, and then to take off thin slices, in a circular manner, round the bone, towards the thick part and proceed as with venison. This is the most economical way.

The _second_ way is to cut a round hole in the top of the ham with a sharp pointed knife, and to enlarge the circle by cutting out thin slices. This is a good way, as it keeps the meat moist, and preserves the gravy.

The _other_ way is, to cut across, near the middle of the ham, quite down to the bone, and then to take off thin slices each way.

TONGUE.—A tongue is to be cut _across_ towards the thickest end; slices taken from that part, both ways, are the most tender and juicy; towards the tip of the tongue, the meat is hardest and dryest. For the fat and kernel, cut off a slice from the lower side of the root.

SUCKING PIG.—The head and collar is usually cut off, and the carcase slit down the back into two equal parts; the head being also divided and laid at each end, and the ears on each side. But if the pig be sent up whole, before any one be helped, the shoulders and legs should be separated from the body, and the ribs divided into two or more parts; the shoulders may each be divided into two or more parts, also; and nice slices may be taken from the gammon and fleshy parts. The ribs are very delicious, but the collar and neck are most esteemed; the chaps are also much approved by many.

VENISON.—_The Haunch._ First make a deep incision across, down to the bone, towards the knuckle end, to let out the gravy; then turn the broad end towards you, and take off thinnish deep slices, _lengthwise_, from the cross cut to the end. The fat, which is the most delicious part, lies, as in a shoulder of mutton, in the round prominent part, which, when the broad end is towards you, will be on the left side. Give some of this, and also some of the gravy, with each slice.

HARE.—The best and readiest way to cut up a hare, is to put the point of the knife under the point of the shoulder, and cut all the way down to the rump, on both sides of the back at equal distances from the back-bone, dividing the body into three parts; the middle or back may then be cut across the spine, into four or more pieces. These are by far the most tender and delicate, and the fullest of gravy. The shoulders or wings must be taken off in a circular direction, and the legs may be easily separated from the belly. The shoulders and legs may each be divided. The pieces of the back, and the fleshy parts of the shoulders and legs, should be given with a spoonful of the stuffing and gravy to those most respected. This method can only be practised when the Hare is young. If it be old, do not endeavour to divide it lengthwise, but put the knife between the leg and back, and give it a turn inwards, at the joint, which you must try to hit.—A nice cut or two may then be taken from each side of the back-bone;—then divide the back into parts, and take off the wings, which are called the sportsman’s pieces. When all are helped, cut off the head, and separate the ears, close to the roots, which some may approve; then with your knife divide the upper from the lower jaw, and laying the upper one flat on your plate, enter the point of your knife in the centre near the back of the skull, and divide it in two. The head and brains are liked by some.

RABBIT.—A rabbit is to be carved as a hare in the latter way; but it being smaller, the body may be divided into fewer parts, and the head, the ears having been taken off, may be given, to any one who likes it.

GOOSE.—A goose, fowl, turkey, pheasant, and partridge, are to be cut up nearly alike. First cut off the apron of the goose, and pour into the body a glass of port wine, and the gravy, well mixed with a large teaspoonful of ready made mustard; then turn the neck towards you, and cut the whole breast into long slices quite down to the bone, and take them off; turn the goose upon one side, and proceed to take off the leg, by putting the fork through the small end of the bone, and pressing it close to the body, which will raise the leg from the body and shew the direction in which the knife may be passed, in order to separate it; this may then be done by turning it back, but if it be an old bird, it will require some strength. To take off the wing, pass the fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body, then enter the knife at the point of the wing, and divide the joint (which requires some practice to hit cleverly) and separate it from the side. Next take off the merry-thought, at the neck end, across the body, and where it joins the body, on each side, you will find the joint of the neck bones, then put in the knife, and pass it the longest part of the bone, when you will lift it up and break it off from the breast bone, to which it is attached. All parts being thus separated from the carcase, divide the breast from the back by cutting through the tender ribs on each side from one end to the other. Then lay the back upwards, fix your fork under the rump, and pressing the edge of your knife hard across the back, lift up the rump, and the body will divide into two parts. The rump part may then be divided into three, cutting it lengthwise through the bones on each side of the back, and taking off the side-bones. It is not always necessary to cut up the whole goose, at once, but as you proceed, the breast may be distributed, the fleshy parts of the wings, when disjointed from the pinions, and the thigh parts of the legs, (the drum sticks being taken off), may next be given, remembering to draw out the sage and onions, gravy, &c. from the inside, and give a spoonful on each plate. The neck-bone and merry-thought are approved by some, and others approve different parts of the carcase, which are very savoury.

A GREEN GOOSE must be cut up the same way; and the best parts are the breast, and the gristle at the lower end of it.

FOWL.—Fowls, whether roasted or boiled, are to be cut up alike. The best way is to take the bird on your plate, and sticking your fork into the breast, upright, cut of slices, down the breast on each side, as long as you can; then proceed to take off the legs, by passing the knife between the legs and the body from the upper part of the thigh towards the rump. Next take off the wings by entering your knife at the point of the shoulder, and with your fork lift up the pinion and drawing the wing towards you, by which means it will separate very nicely without cutting. After this, take off the merry-thought, the neck-bones, and all the remaining parts, as described in the goose. The prime parts of a fowl are the wings, breast, and merry-thought: the legs are coarse dry, and of a darker colour, except those of a chick, which are full of gravy and most esteemed. The drum-sticks should be cut off from the legs of the fowl at the joint, when given.

TURKEY.—A turkey is to be dissected as a fowl or goose, but it has no merry-thought. The white meats of a Turkey are best. The gizzard is sometimes scored in different directions, and when salted and peppered, it is sent down to be broiled; is divided into several parts, and sent round to the company as a _bonne bouche_.

PHEASANT.—This bird is to be carved the same way as a fowl, first cutting off the head. The best parts of the pheasant are the breast, wings, and merry-thought; but the leg has a higher flavour. The head is sometimes preferred, because of the brains.

PARTRIDGE.—Partridges are to be carved as fowls.—The prime parts, as of nearly all birds, are the white meats; viz. the wings (the tip of which is reckoned the most delicious morsel,) the breast, and merry-thought.

PIGEONS.—Pigeons are generally divided into two parts, to do which there are several ways; the most fashionable of which is, to cut from the top of the leg on each side, quite through and across the body to the breast bone.

FISH,—in general, requires but little carving.

_A Cod’s head._ The thick fleshy part on the back and shoulders, close to the head, is most esteemed, but many parts of the jowl are very delicious, particularly those about the jaw-bones, which consist of a fine jelly. The tongue, palate, and firm parts about the back-bone on the shoulders are also considered as dainties.

Take off a large piece across the shoulders, close to the head, and quite through to the back-bone, this will lay bare the sound, which is under the back-bone, some of which should be taken out with a spoon, and given with every slice. Care must be taken to preserve the beautifully fine flakes of this fish entire.

SALMON and all other fish that have a short grain, should be cut with the slices the long way of the fish, and not across. The belly part is the richest and most esteemed of salmon, but the head, and particularly the jowl, afford many rich and delicate bits, which are much prized.

DIRECTIONS FOR MARKETING.[12]

[_We presume that the following will be found to be the best
instructions on this important subject that have ever yet
appeared in print._]

————

BUTCHERS’ MEAT.

_General observations respecting it._

☞ _The best of every kind of provision is cheapest, affords most
nourishment, and goes farthest._

As this is the most nourishing of all animal food, and constitutes a considerable portion of our constant aliment, a knowledge, not only of the nature and properties of the several kinds of animals destined for our use, but also of the manner in which they have been bred and fed, would be very essential if to be obtained, as it would enable us to judge of their wholesomeness, and their fitness for our healthful support and nourishment.

The flesh of cattle, of all kinds, fatted in confined and filthy places, on oil-cakes, or rank and half-decayed vegetables, should be rejected, as unfit for use. On the contrary, those animals which have been bred and pastured in open situations, on high lands, extensive downs, dry commons, heaths, and large enclosures, where the air is pure, and particularly where the grass is short and sweet, and where they require much exercise to obtain their sustenance, have their juices pure, their flavour excellent, and the texture of their flesh delicate, nutritive, and wholesome. Hence the superiority of the Welch and South Down mutton, the Scotch and Welch beef, &c. This fact is clearly evinced in the superior qualities that venison, and the flesh of all wild animals possess over that of tame ones.

Buttocks of beef, fillets of veal, and legs of mutton and lamb, as they have most solid meat and least bone, in proportion, are best for large families.

The most economical way for marketing, is to buy what roasting and boiling pieces you want in one lot. Butchers will sell quantities, thus assorted, much cheaper than they will sell single joints; and prime roasting joints, when bought alone, are always charged extravagantly.

Beef and mutton, of a proper age, is more easy of digestion, and more nutritious, than veal and lamb. The same remark holds with respect to pork; for though young pigs are fat and luscious, yet they are not so nutritive as those of more mature age. The heart and other viscera of animals are nutritious, but hard to digest. Pork is a strong meat, but that which is fed at dairies, is mildest and best. Fat meat is not so easy of digestion as the flesh of well fed animals, though not so fat. The flesh of old animals is dry and hard of digestion, and affords but little nourishment.

BEEF.

_Instructions for choosing it._

An ox is in its prime, for food, at five or six years old.

BEEF is never out of season, but it is in the _greatest perfection_ in November, December, and January.

The lean of the finest ox-beef, if of a proper age, has a fine smooth grain, it is of a bright or carnation red, feels tender, and appears to be marled or intermixed with fat. The fat parts are firm, of a cream colour, and rather white than yellow. This latter distinction is of importance, because, if the beef be old, the fat will be yellow and skinny; and if the ox has been unnaturally fed, or in a confined place, and particularly if it has been fed with oil-cake, it will be very yellow, soft, flabby, and greasy. On the other hand, if the beef be too young, the fat will be white, almost like mutton fat, and the lean will be of a pale colour.

The grain of _cow-beef_ is closer than that of the ox, and the lean is of a darker red.

_Heifer-beef_ has all the appearances and qualities of good ox-beef, except that the grain of the lean is of a finer texture.

_Bull-beef_ is coarser and redder than any other, the fat hard and skinny, and it has a strong, rank smell.

_The_ JOINTS OF BEEF, _according to the London method of cutting_.

_The Hind Quarter._

1 Sirloin
2 Rump
3 Edge-bone
4 Buttock
5 Mouse-buttock
6 Veiny-piece
7 Thick-flank
8 Thin-flank
9 Leg
10 Fore-ribs

_The Fore Quarter._

11 Middle-ribs
12 Chuck-ribs
13 Leg-of-mutton-piece
14 Brisket or Breast-cut
15 Clod
16 Neck or sticking-piece
17 Shin
18 Cheek

A Baron of beef is the two sirloins cut together.]

The best joints are the sirloin, rump, edge-bone, buttock, and the five or six fore-ribs; and the thin-flank, the sticking-piece, the leg, shin, and cheek, are the worst.

VEAL.

_Instructions for choosing it._

Veal is _best_ and _cheapest_ from _March_ to _July_.

Veal ought to be fine in the grain, firm, white, and fat. The leg bone should be small. If fresh, the eyes will be full and bright, the flesh not clammy but dry, and the large vein of the shoulder of a bright red. The kidney taints soonest, and if that be sweet, and neither soft nor slimy, the whole calf is fresh. On the contrary, if any part of the flesh be green or yellow, or feels flabby, it is stale. The fillet of a cow-calf is preferable on account of the udder, but the meat of the bull-calf is generally firmest, whitest, and best, when dressed. The finest calves have the smallest kidneys.

THE JOINTS OF VEAL.

_Hind-Quarter._

1 Loin, best end
2 Loin, chump-end
3 Fillet
4 Hind-knuckle

_Fore-Quarter._

5 Fore-knuckle
6 Neck, best end
7 Neck, scrag end
8 Blade-bone
9 Breast, best end
10 Breast, brisket end]

A shoulder is the fore-knuckle and blade-bone together; and a leg is the fillet and hind-knuckle together.

The best end of the loin, the fillet, and the best end of the breast, are the choicest pieces: the knuckle, and scrag end of the neck, are the worst.

MUTTON.

_Instructions for choosing it._

MUTTON is _best_ from _Christmas_ to _Midsummer_.

When, if in its prime, (that is about four years of age,) it will feel tender when pinched with the finger and thumb, but if older, it will feel harder and fibrous. The grain of the lean should be a fine deep red, the colour bright, and the fat firm and white. Wether mutton is the best flavoured, and may be known by a prominent lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part. Ewe mutton is paler than wether mutton, is of a finer texture and of less value; ram mutton is strong flavoured, high coloured, and its fat is spungy.

The mutton of the small Welch sheep, which are driven up, and fatted on Banstead Heath, and the mutton bred and fed on the South Downs, in Sussex, are the most esteemed in London. At Bath, the short-shanked Dorsetshire, and the Lansdown mutton are most in request; in Yorkshire and the northern counties, the Moor mutton; and in Norfolk and Suffolk the long-shanked is most approved; but the sheep bred in the Fens and deep lands of Lincolnshire, and that neighbourhood, are large, coarse-grained, and ill-flavoured.—Mutton tastes strong of the coat in May and June, or just before shearing.

THE JOINTS OF MUTTON.

1 Leg
2 Loin, best end
3 Ditto, chump end
4 Neck, best end
5 Neck, scrag-end
6 Shoulder
7 Breast

A Chine is the two loins together; and a Saddle is the two necks together.]

LAMB.

_Instructions for choosing it._

Lamb, like veal, is fresh when the eyes are full and bright, and the vein in the neck is of a fine blue colour; but if it be green or yellow, or if there be a faint smell about the kidney, it is stale. The earliest house-lamb, in London, is from the Dorsetshire ewes, which are sold in great numbers at Weyhill-Fair, on the 10th of October, whence they are driven towards London, quite forward, frequently dropping their lambs on the road. This comes in at or before Christmas, and is generally cut into quarters. Grass-lamb comes into season about Easter, and when large and plentiful is cut up in joints, like mutton.

PORK.

_Directions for choosing it._

The rind of all pork should be thin, and if young and properly fed, the lean will break when pinched, and will be smooth and of a delicate white; the fat will be white and fine, and the joints will look blue; but if the rind be tough and loose, or thick and hard, and the joints look red, it is old. If the flesh be clammy it is stale. The knuckle part taints first. When measles are seen in the fat, the meat is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. A pig is in its prime at two years old.

THE JOINTS OF PORK.

1 Spare-rib
2 Hand
3 Belly or spring
4 Fore-loin
5 Hind-loin
6 Leg]

BACON.

The rind of good bacon is always thin, the fat firm and white, or rather inclined to a pink tinge, and the lean is of a bright red, tender and adhering close to the bone. If there be any appearance of yellow, it is rusty. The Wiltshire and Hampshire bacon is best, but the Yorkshire is much esteemed. Irish bacon is, in general, bad; but this article is now so re-manufactured in London, as to resemble, in appearance, the most beautiful Wiltshire bacon.

HAMS.—The Westphalia or bear’s hams, are the best; but the Westmorland, Wiltshire, and Yorkshire are the most desirable, of the English curing. Choose these latter short in the shank; and to know whether they are good, thrust a picked-pointed knife under the bone, and if it comes out clean and sweet, the ham is good, otherwise it is not.

GAME.

VENISON is chosen by its fat, which should be thick, clear, and bright. A knife stuck in under the shoulder or shank will shew whether it be sweet. If venison looks green, or approaching to black, it is stale.

The _Joints_ of Venison are only four; viz. The haunch, neck, breast, and shoulder.

HARES.—The claws of a young hare are smooth and sharp, the ears are tender and will easily tear, and the cleft of the lip is narrow; but the claws of an old hare are blunt and rugged, the ears dry and tough, and the cleft of the lip is wide, and the haunch is thick.—If fresh the body will be stiff. A hare is best when kept ten days or a fortnight, which, in favourable weather, may be done; but it should always be dressed as soon as it begins to bleed at the nose.

LEVERETS may be distinguished from hares, by their having a knob or small bone on the fore leg, near the foot, which hares have not. Leverets will not keep, therefore should be dressed as soon as possible.

RABBITS.—The age of Rabbits, whether wild or tame, may be known by nearly the same rules as that of Hares: observe also, that if old, their hairs are intermixed with the wool, their claws will be limber, and their flesh, instead of being white, will have a blue cast, and be slimy.

POULTRY.

(POULTRY _is in the greatest perfection when most plentiful. It is generally dearest from February to Midsummer, and cheapest in September._)

GEESE.—The bill and feet of a young Goose will be yellow, the breast fat and plump, and the fat white and soft; but if old, the bill and feet will be red, and the fat yellow and skinny. If fresh, the feet will be limber, but if stale, stiff and dry. Green-Geese are in season in April, May, and June. They should be scalded. Stubble-Geese come into season in September.

TURKEYS.—Choose cock birds. The very best have black legs, but the white legged birds are nearly as fine. If young their legs will be smooth, and the spurs of the cock will be very short and tender; but if old, the legs will be rough, and the spurs long and hard, unless filed or cut off. But the best criterion, by which to judge of both Turkeys and Fowls with certainty is, that the toes and bills, if they be young, will be soft and pliable, but will feel hard and stiff, if old. A Turkey should be kept without meat thirty-six hours before it is killed, and should be hung up in its feathers a week before it is dressed.

FOWLS.—Young Pullets are in their prime before they begin to lay; but Hen Fowls are best when full of eggs, at which time the vent is soft. The comb, skin, and legs of old Hens are rough. A good Capon has a large rump, and much fat at the shoulders, and its comb is pale.

To know whether any kind of Fowl in its feathers is fit to dress, pull the feathers off the vent very gently, and if they come off easily, it ought to be dressed immediately.

DUCKS and DUCKLINGS.—These may be chosen by the same rules as Turkeys and Fowls; but the bills and feet of wild Ducks are smaller and redder than those of tame ones; their plumage too is different. Young wild Ducks will not keep. All young Ducks should be scalded, as that sweetens them, and improves their flavour.

[Norfolk is famous for Turkeys, Geese, and Ducks; Surrey and Sussex for Fowls and Ducklings. The Dorking Fowls are in high estimation in London.]

PIGEONS.—These birds should be both young and fresh, and when they are so, they are fat and full at the vent; their legs are limber and of a dusky white: young Pigeons have also a yellow down round their necks and heads. If old, their legs and feet are large, harsh, and red, and the vent discoloured and flabby. Tame Pigeons are best, as wood Pigeons are harder and darker coloured.

WILD FOWL.

To judge whether these are young and fresh, observe the rules given above for tame Fowls; recollect also that these birds should be fat, and when they are so, they will be hard at the vent; if stale, the skin will peel off when rubbed with the finger.

PHEASANTS.—Cock Pheasants are best. Hens are excellent when full of eggs.

WOODCOCKS.—These are fine, high-flavoured birds, and when in the best condition, they feel thick and firm, and have a vein of fat down the sides of the breast. When stale they run at the nostrils. _Land Rails and Snipes_ are chosen by these rules.

PARTRIDGES.—The yellow legs of young partridges become blue when old, and their bills changed from yellow to a dark hue.

QUAILS.—These come chiefly from France and Germany, but the finest and best that are sold in London, come from Cambridgeshire, and are fed by the poulterers with herbs, seed, or boiled bread and milk. They are so extremely delicate, in feeding, that two of them will not eat out of the same trough.

TEAL is of a beautiful plumage, and very delicate to eat. Their bills and feet are black, and are shaped like those of a Duck.

RUFFS and REES are chiefly found in Lincolnshire and Cambridgeshire; and in April or May, when most in season, they are a perfect lump of fat. If poor, when caught, they should be fattened with white bread and milk boiled, given them in separate troughs.

MOOR GAME, and even GROUSE, may be kept good a long time. Old birds of all kinds will keep longest, and will be the better for keeping; but young birds should be dressed soon.

SMALL BIRDS, of every description, should be dressed immediately.

FISH.

_General Rules for choosing it._

(_The price of fish depends on the supply; and it will often be found, that one kind of fish, equally as good and seasonable as another, may be bought for much less money; therefore, never buy at an extravagant price._)

When fish is fresh, it is firm, bright, and stiff; the gills are of a lively red, hard to open, and smell sweet; and the eyes are full and clear. If stale, the whole fish, and particularly the gills and fins, will always be flabby and limber, the gills will be pale, and the eyes sunk and dull. By these rules alone, good fish may be distinguished from bad; but besides these, some kinds of fish have other distinguishing peculiarities, which are as follow; viz.

STURGEON.—The grain of the flesh of a fine Sturgeon is smooth and very white, interspersed with blue veins. The skin is soft and tender, and its smell is very pleasant. When the veins and gristles are brown or yellow, instead of blue, or the skin is hard and dry, the fish is not good.

CAVIARE.—This is the roe of the female Sturgeon. It should be taken out and beaten flat, then sprinkled with salt and dried, first in the sun and air, and afterwards in an oven, till it becomes very dry and of a reddish brown colour. Thus prepared, it is a fine relish; it is to be eaten with oil and vinegar.

TURBOT, when good, is thick, firm, and plump; and the nose, and fins all round the belly, tinged with a pink colour; but if it has lost this beautiful tinge, or if the belly be changed from a yellowish white to a blueish cast, the fish is either stale or poor, or both.

SOLES are to be chosen by these rules, particularly as to the pink tinge round their bellies and under their noses.

COD FISH should be thick at the neck, having the gills red, the flesh very white, firm, hard, and dear, and the eyes bright.

HADDOCK are to be chosen by these rules. The shortest fish are the best.

SALMON should be chosen for its small head and thick neck; its scales should be bright, and its gills and flesh of a fine red colour. The Thames and Severn Salmon are mostly esteemed.

SKATE, MAIDS, and THORNBACKS are all of one species; they ought to be white and thick. The two latter should be kept a day, or perhaps two, to make them tender, and Skate may be kept longer. The maiden Skate and the young male, or Thornback, are the best; but large, old Skate, is generally coarse and rank.

FLOUNDERS, PLAICE, &c. should be stiff and firm, with bright, full eyes. If flabby, these and all other kinds of fish are certainly stale. The Thames Flounders are reckoned best, in London, because they may be had alive, or nearly so, and they are always best when dressed as soon as caught.

HERRINGS, PILCHARDS, WHITINGS, SPRATS, &c.—These may be classed together. The largest are the best. Their gills should be of a fine red, their fins stiff, their eyes bright, and their flesh, when best, is bright and firm. As the Herrings emigrate, in immense shoals, from the northern regions, they are in the greatest perfection on their first arrival on the coasts of Scotland, the North of Ireland, and the Isle of Man. On the coast of the German Ocean also, even so far south as Yarmouth, they are taken in great quantities, remarkably fat and fine, and full of spawn; but before they reach the southern coast of England, they become poor and thin, and are then known by the denomination of Shotten-Herrings.

MACKEREL look beautifully bright when first caught. These and WHITINGS should be dressed as soon as possible.

FRESH WATER FISH.

PIKE and JACK are taken in rivers; they are very dry eating, and require much seasoning and sauce.

CARP, TENCH, and PERCH, are best eaten as soon as caught; the latter is not so much esteemed as the two former.

SMELTS, when fresh, have a fine bright appearance, firm flesh, and a fragrant smell, like a cucumber.

GUDGEONS, ROACH, and DACE, and most other river fish, must be chosen by the rules already given.

BUTTER, CHEESE, and EGGS.

BUTTER should be chosen by the taste and smell.—The best fresh butter is the Epping, and next the Cambridge; sometimes the potted weekly Dorset is very good. Of tub butter, the Welch is best, the Dutch next, and the Irish worst. In examining tub-butter, and particularly the Irish, look at and smell to the outside next the cask, which is often white in appearance like tallow, and quite rank in smell.

CHEESE. Of the common kinds, Cheshire, North Wiltshire and double Gloucester, are the best. Cheese of the first making, in May, is usually brought to Market in August. Factors have a pernicious practice of sticking brass pins into cheese, which gives it the appearance of blue mould and old age. That cheese which has a smooth, moist coat, is generally good. Spanish arnatto is often used to give the rind a beautiful red colour.

EGGS.—If fresh, will feel warm when the tongue is applied to the biggest end; but if stale, it will be cold. An egg, when quite fresh, will sink at once when put into cold water; but if rotten, it will swim.

VEGETABLES.

N.B. VEGETABLES _are_ CHEAPEST _soon after they come into full season_.

All VEGETABLES are best if dressed as soon as gathered; and are in their greatest perfection just before they begin to flower.

MOST ARTICLES FOR PICKLING will be in their prime in July and August; but walnuts not later than the middle of July; and mushrooms and white cabbage in September and October.

HERBS, of all kinds, should be gathered in a dry day; and when the roots are cut off, and the herbs are perfectly well cleaned from dust, &c. they should be divided into small bunches and dried _very quick_ by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, rather than by the heat of the sun, taking care that they be not burnt. When dry put them into bags, and hang them up in a dry place; or pound them and sift them through a hair sieve, and keep the powder in bottles closely stopped.

SWEET AND SAVORY HERBS are best in season from May to August, according to their kinds.

The flavour and fragrance of _fresh herbs_ are much finer than of those that are dried.

PASTRY, &c.

————

_Here follow a great variety of the most useful and approved_ RECEIPTS IN DOMESTIC ECONOMY, _which are chiefly appropriate to the Housekeeper’s department; consisting of directions for making_ PASTRY, CONFECTIONARY, PRESERVES, PICKLES, PERFUMERY, COSMETICS, BRITISH WINES, _various articles of_ DISTILLATION, FAMILY MEDICINE, _and many_ MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS _of general utility_.

OBSERVATIONS ON PASTRY.

An adept in making pastry, never leaves any part of it adhering to the board used in making it. It is best when rolled on marble or slate. In hot weather the butter should be put in cold water to make it firm; and if the pastry be made early in the morning, and preserved from the air till baked, it will be the better. Salt butter, if good and well washed, makes a fine flaky crust.

Preserved fruit for pastry need not be baked; but the crust should be baked in a tin shape, or on a tin and cut out according to taste.

ON MAKING CAKES.

Currants should be nicely washed, dried in a cloth, and then set before the fire. If not quite dry they will make the cake heavy. The cake will be the lighter if a dust of flour be thrown on the currants and then shaken.

Eggs should be beaten very long, the whites and the yolks apart, after which, they must be strained.—Sugar should be rubbed to a powder, on a clean board, and sifted through a fine hair or lawn sieve. Lemon-peel should be pared quite thin, and beaten, with a little sugar, in a marble mortar, to a paste; and then mixed with a little wine or cream, so as to mix easily with the other ingredients. After all the articles are put together in the pan, they should be thoroughly beaten for a long while, as the lightness of the cake greatly depends on their being well incorporated. Yeast, in either black or white plum cakes, makes them require less butter and eggs, and yet be equally light and rich. The dough when made should be set to rise by the fire. If the oven be not _quick_ the batter will not rise, and the cake will be heavy: if you think it too quick, put some paper over the cake to prevent its being burnt.

1. A RICH PLUM CAKE.

Take one pound of fresh butter, one pound of sugar, one pound and a
half of flour, two pounds of currants, a glass of brandy, one pound
of sweatments, two ounces of sweet almonds, ten eggs, a quarter of an
ounce of allspice, and a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon.

Melt the butter to a cream, and put in the sugar. Stir it till quite
light, adding the allspice, and pounded cinnamon; in a quarter of an
hour take the yolks of the eggs, and work them in, two or three at a
time; and the whites of the same must by this time be beaten into a
strong snow quite ready to work in; as the paste must not stand to
chill the butter, or it will be heavy, work in the whites gradually;
then add the orange-peel, lemon, and citron, cut in fine stripes, and
the currants, which must be mixed in well, with the sweet almonds.
Then add the sifted flour and glass of brandy. Bake this cake in a
tin hoop in a hot oven for three hours, and put twelve sheets of
paper under it to keep it from burning.

2. A GOOD PLAIN CAKE.

The following is a receipt for making a good plain cake, to be given
to children, at breakfast, instead of _buttered bread_.

Take as much dough as will make a quartern-loaf (either made at home,
or procured at the baker’s), work into this a quarter of a pound of
butter, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and a handful of caraway
seeds. When well worked together, pull into pieces the size of a
golden pippin, and work it together again. This must be done _three_
times or it will be in lumps, and heavy when baked.

3. ICEING FOR CAKES.

Put one pound of fine-sifted, treble refined sugar into a basin, and
the whites of three new-laid eggs; beat the sugar and eggs up well
with a silver spoon until it becomes very white and thick; dust the
cake over with flour, and then brush it off, by way of taking the
grease from the outside, which prevents the iceing from running; put
it on smooth with a palette knife, and garnish according to fancy:
any ornaments should be put on immediately; for if the iceing gets
dry, it will not stick on. Set it in a cool oven to harden.

4. A RICH SEED CAKE.

Take a pound and a quarter of flour well dried, a pound of butter, a
pound of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, eight eggs and two ounces of
caraway seeds, one grated nutmeg, and its weight in cinnamon. Beat
the butter into a cream, put in the sugar, beat the whites of the
eggs and the yolks separately, then mix them with the butter and
sugar. Beat in the flour, spices, and seed, a little before sending
it away. Bake it two hours in a quick oven.

5. A PLAIN POUND CAKE.

Beat one pound of butter in an earthen pan until it is like a fine
thick cream, then beat in nine whole eggs till quite light. Put in
a glass of brandy, a little lemon peel, shred fine, then work in a
pound and a quarter of flour; put it into the hoop or pan and bake
it for an hour. A pound plum cake is made the same with putting one
pound and a half of clean washed currants and half a pound of candied
lemon peel.

6. RATAFIA CAKES.

Beat half a pound each of sweet and bitter almonds in fine orange,
rose, or ratafia water, mix half a pound of fine pounded and sifted
sugar with the same, add the whites of four eggs well beaten to it,
set it over a moderate fire in a preserving-pan. Stir it one way
until it is pretty hot, and when a little cool form it into small
rolls, and cut into thin cakes. Shake some flour lightly on them,
give each a light tap, and put them on sugar papers, sift a little
sugar on them, and put them into a thorough slack oven.

7. WIGGS.

Put half a pint of warm milk to three quarters of a pound of fine
flour: mix in it two or three spoonsful of light yeast. Cover it up,
and set it before the fire an hour, in order to make it rise. Work
into it four ounces each of sugar and butter, make it into cakes, or
wiggs, with as little flour as possible, and a few caraway seeds, and
bake them quick.

8. BATH CAKES.

Mix well together, half a pound of butter, one pound of flour, five
eggs, and a cupful of yeast. Set the whole before the fire to rise,
which effected, add a quarter of a pound of fine powered sugar, an
ounce of caraways well mixed in, and roll the paste out into little
cakes. Bake them on tins.

9. SHREWSBURY CAKES.

Mix half a pound of butter well beat like cream, and the same weight
of flour, one egg, six ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar, and
half an ounce of caraway seeds. Form these into a paste, roll them
thin, and lay them in sheets of tin; then bake them in a slow oven.

10. PORTUGAL CAKES.

Mix into a pound of fine flour, a pound of loaf sugar, beat and
sifted, and rub it into a pound of butter, till it is thick, like
grated white bread; then put to it two spoonsful of rose-water, two
of sack, and ten eggs: work them well with a whisk, and put in eight
ounces of currants. Butter the tin pans, fill them half full, and
bake them. If made without currants they will keep a year.

11. GINGER CAKES WITHOUT BUTTER.

Take one pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of ginger, a pint of
water, two pounds of flour, and eight caps of orange peel. Pound and
sift the ginger, and add a pint of water; boil it five minutes, then
let it stand till cold. Pound the preserved orange-peel, and pass it
through a hair sieve; put the flour on a pasteboard, make a wall, and
put in the orange peel and ginger with the boiled water; mix this up
to a paste and roll it out; prick the cakes before baking them.

12. SAVOY CAKES.

To one pound of fine sifted sugar, put the yolks of ten eggs, (have
the whites in a separate pan,) and set it, if in summer, in cold
water: if there is any ice set the pan on it as it will cause the
eggs to be beat finer. Then beat the yolks and sugar well with a
wooden spoon for 20 minutes, and put in the rind of a lemon grated;
beat up the whites with a whisk, until they become quite stiff and
white as snow. Stir them into the batter by degrees, then add three
quarters of a pound of well-dried flour; finally put it in a mould in
a slack oven to bake.

13. SAFFRON CAKES.

Take a quartern of fine flour, a pound and a half of butter, three
ounces of caraway-seeds, six eggs, well beaten, a quarter of an ounce
of well-beaten cloves and mace, a little pounded cinnamon, one pound
of sugar, a little rose-water and saffron, a pint and a half of
yeast, and a quart of milk. Mix them thus: first boil the milk and
butter, then skim off the butter, and mix it with the flour and a
little of the milk. Stir the yeast into the rest and strain it; mix
it with the flour, put in the eggs and spice, rose-water, tincture of
saffron, sugar, and eggs. Beat it all well up, and bake it in a hoop
or pan well buttered. Send it to a quick oven, and an hour and a half
will do it.

14. QUEEN CAKES.

Take a pound of sugar, beat and sift it, a pound of well-dried
flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, and half a pound of currants
washed and picked; grate a nutmeg and an equal quantity of mace and
cinnamon, work the butter to a cream, put in the sugar, beat the
whites of the eggs 20 minutes, and mix them with the butter and
sugar. Then beat the yolks for half an hour and put them to the
butter. Beat the whole together, and when it is ready for the oven,
put in the flour, spices, and currants; sift a little sugar over
them, and bake them in tins.

15. RICE CAKES.

Beat the yolks of 15 eggs for nearly half an hour, with a whisk, mix
well with them 10 ounces of fine sifted loaf sugar, put in half a
pound of ground rice, a little orange water or brandy, and the rinds
of two lemons grated, then add the whites of seven eggs well beaten,
and stir the whole together for a quarter of an hour. Put them into a
hoop and set them in a quick oven for half an hour, when they will be
properly done.

16. LEMON CAKES.

Take one pound of sugar, three quarters of a pound of flour, 14 eggs,
two table spoonsful of rose-water, the raspings and juice of four
lemons; when the yolks are well beat up and separated, add the powder
sugar, the lemon raspings, the juice, and the rose-water; beat them
well together in a pan with a round bottom, till it becomes quite
light, for half an hour. Put the paste to the whites previously well
whisked about, and mix it very light. When well mixed sift in the
flour and knead it in with the paste, as light as possible; form the
biscuits and bake them in small oval tins, with six sheets of paper
under them, in a moderate heat. Butter the tins well or it will prove
difficult to take out the biscuits, which will be exceedingly nice if
well made. Ice them previously to baking, but very lightly and even.

17. BANBURY CAKES.

Take a pound of dough made for white bread, roll it out, and put bits
of butter upon the same as for puff paste, till a pound of the same
has been worked in; roll it out very thin, then cut it into bits of
an oval size, according as the cakes are wanted. Mix some good moist
sugar with a little brandy, sufficient to wet it, then mix some clean
washed currants with the former, put a little upon each bit of paste,
close them up, and put the side that is closed next the tin they are
to be baked upon. Lay them separate, and bake them moderately, and
afterwards, when taken out, sift sugar over them. Some candied peel
may be added, or a few drops of the essence of lemon.

18. ALMOND CAKES.

Take six ounces of sweet almonds, half a pound of powdered sugar,
seven eggs, six ounces of flour, and the raspings of four lemons.
Pound the almonds very fine, with whole eggs, add the sugar and lemon
raspings, and mix them well together in the mortar. Take it out, put
it in a basin and stir it with the yolks of eggs, till it is as white
as a sponge paste; beat up the whites of the eggs to a strong snow,
mix them very light with the paste, then take the flour and mix it
as light as possible; on this the goodness of the paste principally
depends, as it is impossible to make a good cake with a heavy paste;
butter the mould and bake in a slack oven for an hour, with ten
sheets of paper under it and one on the top.

19. PLAIN GINGERBREAD.

Previous Next

Comments

The complete servantChapter III: Preface (3)

0%36 min left in chapter