Chapter XI: Part 11

When a single gentleman is intent on proceeding on the most economical and expeditious plan, he will find it best not to have even a cook-boat in his suite; but should confine himself entirely to whatever convenience his _budjrow_ may afford. If this plan is acted upon, the several boxes, &c., may be arranged within the cabins, or, at the utmost, under the deck; taking care, however, to debar the _dandies_ from visiting that part of the vessel, by placing stout battens, or bamboo-laths, across, by way of confining them to the fore hatchway, down which they ordinarily keep their cloaths, fire-wood, &c., &c., and, occasionally, make a _choolah_, or hearth and fire-place, of mud, whereon to cook the victuals of the crew; an operation performed by one of the _dandies_, who, on that account, is exempted from all ordinary duties, and who is generally capable of serving up an admirably well-savored curry.

The after-part of the hold is commonly spacious enough to hold a tent of ordinary dimensions; but it may become a question how far it would be prudent to put camp equipage in the way of the rats, which would, probably, for the sake of shelter in the vicinity of the culinary operations, soon burrow into the hearts of the packages, and do inconceivable damage. If, however, no other place can be allotted for the reception of a tent, and the weather be such as not to warrant its being stowed upon the poop, no alternative is left, and the risk of destruction, or, at least, of very serious injury, must be met with resignation.

Though not indispensably necessary, a tent of some kind will be found extremely convenient, when proceeding by water to any distant station, especially during the hot season. As the boat-men usually come to about sun-set, or, perhaps, a little earlier, if any favorable situation, or the proximity of some large town, should invite, a small tent may easily be taken ashore, and pitched on the elevated bank, where the freshness of the air, and the wide range of prospect, prove a most comfortable relief to a person who, during the day, may have been obliged to remain under the heated roof of a cabin, whereof the windows were closed to keep out the sun, hot winds, and flying sand.

Many gentlemen have one small boat employed chiefly in going forward with such a convenience, and which, after the bed, &c. may be shipped at day-break on board the _budjrow_, that no delay may arise in departing, waits to receive the baggage left on the spot, with which it proceeds at such a rate as soon makes up for the detention: a boat of this kind is extremely useful in many instances, but especially in procuring supplies from an opposite bank, for going to or from shore in shoal water, for towing a _budjrow_ in strong waters, for carrying out an anchor, or rope, to warp by, &c., &c.

Where only a _budjrow_ and such a small boat are employed, the latter generally has a _choolah_, or hearth, &c., prepared within it under a small thatch. She commonly has to carry the proper supply of dry fire-wood; that obtained on the way being, with few exceptions, green, and causing the viands to acquire a very smoky, unpleasant flavor. The poultry are also usually conveyed on the thatch of the cook-boat, in small _tappahs_, or cages, made of split bamboos: this part of the stock may consist of a dozen of fowls, with a few ducks, and a goose or two; and, occasionally, is accompanied by one or two milch goats, which, being supplied with foliage cut for that purpose, during the day, and being sent to some verdant spot when the boat comes to in the evening, rarely fail to furnish milk enough, of a very superior quality, for the morning and evening tea.

The traveller must not expect to be supplied with beef, mutton, or veal, as he may proceed, in any part of the country, except at military or civil stations: there he may, perhaps, be enabled to purchase a sufficient supply of meat to make some variety in his diet as he passes from one station to another; but, unless in some very particular situations, he must content himself with poultry of various kinds, but chiefly chickens, and with kids, of which the meat is excellent. He may, at some of the principal towns where Mussulmans reside, here and there fall in with a butcher, who can furnish a joint of _kussy_ (_i.e._ cut-goat); or he may perchance pick up a tolerable sheep, which may, at all events, serve for gravy, and supply his pointers and spaniels with two or three days’ substantial provision.

The mention of cutting up a sheep for such purposes, may appear extraordinary to the European reader, but it must be recollected, that such sheep are rarely worth more than two shillings, that in some parts the country swarms with them, and that their wool is not valuable, owing to its being lank, coarse, harsh, and not of a strong fibre: it is, indeed, more like that hair which grows upon many horses that are turned out during the winter, and comes off by handfuls as the spring advances.

The boats employed for carrying baggage are of two kinds; _woolachs_ and _patellies_: the former are built in the lower provinces, with round bottoms, and often draw much water; the latter are chiefly of up-country build, have flat bottoms, and are clinkered; this construction suits them admirably to the shallows, which, after the rainy season, abound in all the rivers beyond the tide’s way, and especially at a distance from the sea.

Some of the _woolachs_ used by the more opulent native merchants are capable of bearing from fifteen hundred to three thousand maunds, (_i.e._ from eighty to a hundred and twenty tons,) but their medium may be taken at from four to eight hundred maunds, which is also the general measurement of _patellies_ in the common employ of grain-merchants, &c.: many are to be seen of full two thousand maunds, but such are calculated for the great rivers only; not but that in the channels abundant depth of water may be found, so deep, indeed, that several ships, of five hundred tons burthen, have been built at Patna, which is, by water, six hundred miles from the sea; but those channels are so crooked, and the currents so strong, as to render it very difficult for the ordinary number of _dandies_, proportioned to the tonnage, to navigate such unwieldy boats with safety and expertness,

The best size for a baggage-boat to attend upon a _budjrow_, especially in proceeding against the stream, may be from three hundred to five hundred maunds: observing, that the _patelly_ is by far better calculated for shallow water, and for the conveyance of horses, than a _woolach_; but, being so low in the water, the former is rather subject to be swamped in rough water, and, owing to its construction, is very apt to become hog-backed, and, ultimately, to give way in the middle; an accident which seldom or never happens to the latter.

When horses are to be carried in boats, as is very commonly done, it becomes necessary to make a platform, at about a foot from the bottom of the boat, consisting of brush-wood, mats, and soil: the thwarts being rarely a yard asunder, one must be taken out to make a stall of sufficient width; therefore, if three or four horses are put on board the same boat, a corresponding number of thwarts must be withdrawn. When the animals are about to be embarked, the thatch opposite the stall must be raised high enough to allow a horse to leap in without danger, from the bank.

This operation is often attended with considerable difficulty; for some horses are extremely averse to enter upon the solid platform of a large substantial ferry-boat, such as that at Ghyretty, even when placed on a level therewith, by means of a fixed, or moveable pier. When, therefore, it is considered how many obstacles seem to oppose the admission of a horse into a covered boat, when, probably, he is standing above his knees in water, and has to rise, under every disadvantage, over the boat’s gunwhale, it will not appear surprizing that many hold out for hours, notwithstanding every effort on the part of the _syces_, (or grooms,) and that a large portion are severely lamed in the attempt.

It is curious to observe how very quiet and temperate horses become after embarkation! In such a situation, they seem to forget that wonderful propensity they invariably display when on shore, to attack each other, even when at a considerable distance; but, though parted by only a few feet, they become so tractable while in a boat, that their natures seem to undergo a complete change.

Notwithstanding this periodical, or, rather, local, timidity, it will be proper to secure that part of the boat’s side against which a horse may be able to kick; many instances having occurred of fiery steeds driving their hooves through the planks, which are not always very sound, and, even if undecayed, are generally by far too thin to resist so severe an operation: more than one _patelly_ has foundered outright, with all the contents, in consequence of such an accident; the best mode of preventing which, is, by fastening a quantity of _jow_ (an aquatic species of fern,) to the inside, as a lining, whereby the planks may be secured from injury.

When a vessel is tracked against the stream, it is usual for the _dandies_, or boatmen, to go ashore, each furnished with a club of bamboo, about two feet in length, to which a piece of strong cord is fastened at one end; at the same time, the _ghoon_, or track-rope, is veered out from a pulley in the mast head, or from a block lashed thereto, to as great a length as the situation may demand; commonly, from about seventy to a hundred and fifty yards may suffice, though, in very shoal water, mixed with deeps, or, where the ground is foul, even a greater length may be requisite.

The _ghoon_ is about two inches round, and is made of white rope well laid: if made of tarred rope, it would prove too heavy, and oppose great resistance, by its want of elasticity, to the exertions of the _dandies_, each of whom, fixing the end of his cord to it, and resting the bamboo club over his shoulder, so that it may act, in some measure, as a lever, proceeds at an easy pace, his body leaning well forward, each following at about four feet behind the other. The foremost at the track-rope has a great advantage over his followers; he not being subject to the numerous checks and vibrations occasioned by the frequent impediments, whether bushes, banks, masts of other vessels, &c., which operate very forcibly on those whose cords are attached to that part of the rope in his rear.

The number of _dandies_ at a track-rope may be too many, as well as too few; except when a boat can keep close to the shore, and the _ghoon_ makes but a very small angle from the line of her progress: then, all the power that can be given certainly proves efficient; but, when the angle between the boat’s direction and the rope becomes considerable, it is evident the whole labor falls on a very few of the leading _dandies_; in fact, all but those few are then compelled to liberate their cords from the _ghoon_, otherwise they must be inevitably dragged out into the stream, unless those cords were many fathoms, instead of only four or five feet, in length.

The greater part of the trading boats use a different apparatus for tracking; in them, each _dandy_ is supplied with a fine cord, about as thick as a swan’s quill, made of a fine kind of long grass called _moonje_, which, when wetted, and twisted into this kind of tackle, becomes firm and elastic; though it will not answer for cordage in general. Each _dandy_ has about seventy yards of line, the inner end of which fastens to a stout rope, reeved, the same as the _ghoon_, at the mast-head, and long enough to be let out amply where requisite.

The other end of the line is coiled up by each _dandy_ respectively, who fastens his bamboo club by its cord, at such part of the _moonje_ line as may be let out; generally a small quantity of coil being reserved, which hangs down either over each _dandy’s_ breast or shoulder. By this means, each man tracks separately, and cannot be idle without the _manjy_ instantly detecting him; the several lines form so many rays from the mast-head, and are capable, when equally strained, to bear an immense burthen.

Nothing can be more unpleasant than having to pass a _ghaut_ where numbers of boats are lying: on such an occasion, a man is sent up to the mast-head of each, in succession, for the purpose of passing the _ghoon_; which, when liberated from one, swings on to another, causing a severe shock to the hinder _dandy_ of the tracking party. Some use a very simple device for passing the _ghoon_ over their mast-heads: this consists merely of a kind of fork, made by tying the end of the _ghoon_, of each vessel respectively, then at rest, to a long bamboo, about a quarter of the length down. The _ghoon_ being pulled, the bamboo is raised, and carries with it that of the boat in motion: a man then slips the latter over the mast-head with great facility.

It is not always that the people on board boats, laying at _ghauts_, will turn out to pass the _ghoon_; on which occasions, words are rarely of much avail. I always found that a _pellet-bow_, which sends clay-balls to about a hundred yards distance with considerable force, produced an instantaneous effect; the first shot rattling against the matted sides of a vessel’s interior, rarely failing to cause wondrous activity on the part of her crew; though, now and then, it has been necessary to repeat the operation, before the desired effect could be produced.

I strongly recommend to all gentlemen travelling by water, that they insist on the _manjies_ of their several boats carrying a small flag, of some obvious distinction, at their mast-heads: this prevents them from lying to, and concealing their vessels amidst a forest of masts, as they are very apt to do, when intent upon a clandestine trading voyage. Besides, as in the course of a day’s tracking, and especially when sailing, it is very common for a _budjrow_ to get many miles a-head, such a device then becomes a guide as to the propriety of coming to for the night, or, intermediately, for dinner, &c.

The number of miles which can be run over in the course of a day in a _budjrow_, will necessarily vary according to circumstances, guided by the quantity of water in the river, the direction and force of the wind, and the competency of the crew. I cannot do better, in this place, than offer the words of Major Rennell. At page 360 of his Memoirs, he says, ‘From the beginning of November, to the middle, or latter end of May, the usual rate of going _with_ the stream, is forty miles in a day of twelve hours; and, during the rest of the year, from fifty to seventy miles. The current is strongest while the waters of the inundation are draining off; which happens, in part, in August and September.’

In a former part, I remarked that the rivers generally rise a few inches in May; which is to be attributed to the melting of the snow on those hills where the Ganges and Barampooter have their source. Both those rivers, which have their rise at the base, but on opposite sides, of the same mountain, and, after separating to full twelve hundred miles asunder, unite, and form that immense volume of water called the Megna, receive a supply from the same quarter, and at the same time: we cannot, however, expect the force of their currents to be encreased much before the rains are fairly set in, which may be, generally, about the 10th of June, when their waters do, indeed, roll impetuously; so much, that many a boat has proceeded from Patna to Monghyr, a distance of one hundred measured miles by land, and full one hundred and twenty by water, between day-break and sun-set.

Major Rennell adds, ‘Seventeen to twenty miles a day, according to the ground, and the number of impediments, is the greatest distance that a large _budjrow_ can be towed against the stream, during the fair season; and, to accomplish this, the boat must be drawn through the water, at the rate of four miles and a half per hour, for twelve hours. When the waters are high, a greater progress will be made, notwithstanding the encreased velocity of the current; because, the filling of the river-bed gives many opportunities of cutting off angles and turnings; and, sometimes, even large windings, by going through creeks. As the wind, at this season, blows upwards,’ (_i.e._ against the current,) ‘in most of the rivers, opportunities of using the sail frequently occur.’

It must not be supposed, from the foregoing, that the boat actually makes a progress of four miles and a half within the hour: far from it, the _dandies_ rarely walk more than two miles in that time, but the velocity of the current being taken into account, would shew, that, if a log were to be heaved, the difference between the log and the boat’s advance would give the result alluded to by the Major, whose general correctness cannot be too much admired.

In using the sail, infinite changes take place; sometimes it is full, then again close-hauled, and, perhaps, ultimately, lowered on a sudden, according as the course of the river may change; and this some twenty or thirty times within the day. But when the reaches lie tolerably fair, that opportunity offers, as sometimes happens for a whole day together, and that the wind is brisk in favor, a _budjrow_ will run off from four to six miles within the hour. The river is often so low as to render the navigation very tedious, even under all the above favorable circumstances, by forcing the _manjy_ to abide by the strong deep waters, and to wind in among the sands, which cause the channel to change its direction very frequently.

During the rains, and especially in the cold months, travelling by water is extremely pleasant with the stream; but, whatever facilities may be afforded, in any shape, I cannot say that any trip upwards, at whatever season, afforded me the smallest gratification. What with tracking, getting aground, remaining long among eddies, in which human carcases were floating in all the various stages of putrefaction, the dust flying, &c., &c., nothing but _ennui_, or impatience, can reasonably be expected.

Here and there a walk may be taken; but he who ventures ashore must be watchful to embark before the _budjrow_ may be obliged to put far out for the purpose of passing some endless shallow; otherwise, he may have to walk under a vertical sun, through bushes, or over ploughed, or muddy, lands, and among ravines, for many an hour, before the opportunity many offer for getting on board: to crown the whole, he may, perhaps, come to some _nullah_, or small stream, over which no conveyance is to be had, either by bridge or boat!

My zeal for bringing home a few birds, or a hare, has often decoyed me into scrapes of this kind, and caused me to utter many an imprecation against the river, for winding, the _manjy_, for going on, and my own folly, for subjecting myself to such unpleasant circumstances. I must freely confess, that, in this respect, ‘experience did _not_ give wisdom;’ for, after full a thousand and one such disappointments, I felt, at the last, just as eager as ever, to silence such _chuckores_ (a species of grouse) as had the insolence to crow within my hearing!

The navigation of the large rivers is rather more hazardous than among those of less breadth. When it is considered, that the Ganges runs for upwards of a thousand miles through a country nearly level, and whose undulations are scarcely perceptible, except in a few places where the hills come down to the water’s edge, as at Sickregully, Pointee, Colgong, Chunar, &c., it must appear obvious that but little shelter can be expected from these squalls, called ‘north-westers,’ which, from the end of February until the setting in of the rains, occur almost daily, and blow with considerable violence. Even when under a high bank, it will require much care, and good tackle, to prevent a _budjrow_ from being blown out into the middle, where, if she is top-heavy, as is too often the case, and the proper means be not taken to keep her head to the wind, she will stand a chance of being overset.

Fortunately, the approach of a squall is always strongly indicated by the black appearance above the horizon, and by the distant lightnings: when such are sufficiently characterized to leave little doubt of the storm’s passing that way, shelter should be sought in some creek, or under some high bank, of firm appearance, where the _budjrow_ should be well secured by hawsers, carried out, and made fast to, substantial stakes driven into the ground by means of large malls, with all which every boat should be amply provided. _Luggies_, (or bamboo-poles,) ought to be carried out on the lee-side, for the purpose of resisting the wind, and causing the upper parts of the vessel to bear up duly against the severe gusts which commonly usher in the gale.

If the vessel is on a lee-shore, the _luggies_ must, of course, be between her and the bank, to prevent her from bumping against it, and the anchor should be carried out to windward, into deep water, to keep her from being forced ashore: a danger particularly to be apprehended on long shelving sands; where many a well-conditioned boat has had her bottom beat out, by the force with which the surges, coming across an expanse of perhaps a mile, or more, have dashed her against the hard sand.

Such situations are peculiarly hazardous, and ought to be avoided most carefully: the misfortune is, that, from eagerness to get forward, and from the hope that a north-wester may be either moderate, or pass another way, folks, in general, keep pushing on, and allow many a secure asylum to be passed very imprudently! Those who have experienced the effects of a violent squall about Sheerness, may be proper judges of what is to be expected from a most furious gale, which often continues for an hour, or more, in a river which may be said generally to flow between banks full two miles asunder, and which are, in most parts, from three to five, in some, full seven, miles apart!

About Bengal, especially in the Sunderbund-passages, _decoits_, or water-robbers, are sometimes numerous. These often assemble in fleets, composed of long narrow boats, rowing from twelve to thirty oars, or paddles, at pleasure, and carrying from thirty to sixty, or seventy, men. Sometimes their fleets have been so formidable, and have so effectually put a stop to all commerce, as to call the attention of government, and to demand the presence of a strong establishment, backed by liberal offers of rewards, before the rivers could be resorted to in safety. Between Dacca and Backergunge, among the islands formed by the several minor branches of the Ganges, and by the innumerable creeks, with which the banditti are perfectly familiar, it has often been impossible for any boat to make its way, even for a few miles, without being boarded by these _decoits_.

As to rewards, little good is to be expected from them; the system adopted by the marauders is such as to render abortive any lures of that description. Where all participate, all will be found faithful to the cause, whether virtue or vice be the leader; and, where localities are such as to afford perfect security from the common run of pursuers, and where numbers render the association too formidable to admit any hope of success on the part of small detachments; in such instances, rewards can rarely produce the smallest benefit.

Wherever a boat, or even a fleet, may come to for the night, it will be indispensably necessary to keep a sharp look-out against thieves, who, appertaining to the several villages in the neighbourhood, rarely fail to assemble, during the night, under some bold chief, and to make an attempt to plunder by main force. It is scarcely to be credited to what a height this daring species of robbery has been, at times, carried. Were no other occasion existing, this would amount to ample cause for obtaining, if possible, a guard of sepoys, for the purpose of protecting the boats; but, strange to say, it is sometimes necessary to compel the villagers to sell their poultry, &c., to passengers, both by land and by water, although not simply a liberal, but an exorbitant remuneration is offered.

This does not proceed from unwillingness to make money, nor to sell the article in question, but merely from a spirit of opposition which pervades a large portion of the native population, who are often too adverse to contribute to the comfort, or, more properly, to the existence, of Europeans. It must seem curious that our countrymen are allowed to reside among a people of such a disposition, so far out-numbering, and possessed of such easy means of extirpating, us, with very little previous arrangement.

In saying this, I do not mean to accuse the natives of India of being so debased, so immoral, or so vindictive, as they have been represented by many gentlemen, especially some divines who have lately returned from the East, and whose opinions breathe by no means the spirit of that sublime religion they would coerce the natives to adopt. Taking all points into consideration, and viewing the nature of the country conjointly with the nature of their laws, and of their former government, I think we have by far more to admire than to censure, in a race of people, who, notwithstanding some highly remarkable instances of depravity, may be classed among the most innocent, and most industrious, of worldly inhabitants!!!

This is saying much, but not _too_ much, of a nation whose government absolutely tolerates thieving as a regular profession, and which has been known to make a very free use of the talents of its subjects for the purposes of obtaining plunder, or of gratifying its pique and resentment. I much fear, that, if such were the case with us, and that, if, instead of being ruled by a virtuous king, we were placed under a buccaneering monarch, we should by no means find so many pleas of extenuation as the natives of Hindostan can justly boast!

The truth of this position, in itself so reasonable, is made more fully evident by the obvious difference subsisting between the Company’s and the Vizier’s dominions. In the former, the depredations committed are always nocturnal, and of that description to be expected under the foregoing circumstances; in the latter, the speculation is infinitely more open, more systematic, and more extensive.

That considerable amelioration must have taken place under our government, is to be proved, from the safety with which travellers may proceed by land throughout the country, when compared with the extreme danger attendant upon a journey through any part of the Vizier’s territory; wherein almost every well presents the horrid spectacle of the mangled bodies of those who become victims to the sanguinary hordes of robbers that infest every part of that prince’s dominions.

On this account, every gentleman proceeding by land, from one to another station, should make a point of obtaining a small guard of a naik and four, or even of two, sepoys, whose presence will generally prove a considerable check on the adventurous disposition of the villagers in that quarter. This precaution will not, however, alone be sufficient; application should be made to the _jemmadar_, or head-borough, of each village where the party may encamp, for a certain number of _chokey-dars_, (watchmen,) proportioned to the number of tents, horses, &c., and the whole of the property of every description should be nominally put under the charge of the men thus furnished, observing, that the regular pay, which may be from four to six pice, or halfpence, for each, should be punctually paid to the _jemmadar_ when the camp breaks up the next morning, and that every item is found to be in a state of safety.

When _coolies_ (_i.e._ porters) are wanted, to carry the beds, tables, &c, of a party, application should be made, in like manner, to the _jemmadar_; and when, after arrival at the next stage, they may be discharged, it will be proper to be attentive to the regular payment of every individual thus furnished; otherwise, the servants to whom it may be entrusted to discharge them, will generally withhold a large portion, or even the whole, of what may have been ordered.

By thus regularly attending to matters of this description, the villagers will come forward with more alacrity; though, it must be confessed, they are generally very unwilling to engage as _coolies_; which is not to be wondered at, since the _jemmadars_ generally extort from them at least half their earnings on such occasions: the evil being incurable, as matters now stand, must be borne as gracefully as our feelings may allow; and we must remain content with the reflection of doing justice ourselves, though we know for certain that our liberality, in the end, flows into a wrong channel.

When practicable, it is highly expedient to obtain from the European collector’s office, or even from any of the natives under his immediate authority, who may be deputed to, or resident at, such places as lie near the road, a _rhahwaunah_, or pass-port, wherein it should be set forth, that, whatever necessaries, or _coolies_, or _chokey-dars_, or _dowraws_, (guides,) may be requisite, should be furnished by such _jemmadars_ of villages as should be called upon for supplies of the above description. This always ensures respect and attention, and causes the whole of the persons, to whom it is addressed, to be vigilant in the discharge of their duties, lest complaints should be preferred to the collector, who would speedily summon them to his court, and punish them in a suitable manner.

However audacious the thieves, whether house-breakers, or collectors on the highways, may be, they very rarely make an immediate attack on Europeans. This, no doubt, proceeds from the sense they entertain of the importance we attach to the safety of our countrymen, the murderer of whom would be assuredly detected, and suffer the full sentence of the law. Besides, all the people of Hindostan know, that, with the exception of watches, which, for want of pawn-brokers, and accomplices skilled in the melting of metals, are of no use to the predatory tribe, Europeans never carry about with them any thing valuable. No gentleman ever has money about him; though his servants sometimes have, in their waists, a few rupees, intended for such disbursements as cannot be delayed without inconvenience.

Hence, the boxes, &c., of gentlemen, are generally aimed at, because the cash and valuables are contained in them; for the same reason, the most confidential servants are most commonly selected as objects of attack. Your true Hindostanee robber is, in general, very active, robust, and capable of great deception: he will patrole about a tent, during a dark night, in the manner of a dog, or of a jackal; the howl of which he can, perhaps, imitate so well as to deceive the sentries, and throw them completely off their guard.

If allowed to approach a tent, he will select that side where several servants are asleep under the fly, or awning, and gradually insinuate himself into the interior, either by passing under the walls, or between the overlaps; if such cannot be easily effected, he draws his _choory_, (knife,) which is sharpened for the occasion, and makes a slit in the cloth, or canvas, large enough to pass his body through, when, in the most cautious manner, and retaining his breath as much as possible, he gropes about for those articles which, during the day-time, he had seen deposited in some particular part of the tent, and, after making an opening large enough for his purpose, or by opening one of the doors, he watches the opportunity for escaping with his booty.

The attempt to seize a thief under such circumstances, is extremely hazardous, and ought to be strongly reprehended. Being perfectly naked, and having the body highly lubricated with oil, it is impossible to grasp him in any part; while, on the other hand, he must be expected to use his knife very freely, under the determination of escaping.

I recollect a curious circumstance that happened in 1783, at Bankypore, when the tent of a staff-officer was entered, during the night, by a fellow of this description, who, it being moon-light, and one part of the tent only closed by a _cheek_, was discovered by the gentleman as he lay in bed. Seeing his property on the move, he sprang up to disengage a hog-spear that was tied up to that pole of the _marquee_ which was nearest the bed; but the thief got the start of him, by seizing the officer’s sword, which was suspended by a hook that buckled on to the other pole. The adventurer being thus armed, prevented the gentleman from getting possession of the spear: after one or two menacing flourishes, he darted out of the tent, sword in hand, and was speedily beyond the reach of pursuit.

Another very ludicrous circumstance occurred some years antecedent to the above. A gentleman who inhabited a small _bungalow_, on the banks of a river, and who was very ill of that complaint ‘the liver,’ for which he was under a course of mercury, perceived, in the dusk of the evening, a thief prowling about the apartment in which he was sitting. The fellow was extremely industrious: and threw a number of articles, not even sparing the bed-linen, out at a window that stood open. The gentleman affected to take no notice, but resolved, when the thief should follow his booty, to take him by surprize, while in the act of collecting them from under the window.

This was, by no means, an imprudent resolution, as it appeared probable that the rogue might be secured, at the same time that the property should be recovered. At length, after having thrown out whatever was convenient to his purpose, and having peeped out of the window, the thief made suddenly towards the gentleman, and snatched from his head a beautiful shawl, with which he skipped out of the window.

This feat demanded instant action; the gentleman called lustily for his servants, who, awaking from their slumbers, ran to obey the vociferated summons, and were just in time to see a small _dingy_ (or boat) pulling away to the opposite bank, with the goods, the thief, and his accomplices, on board!

All who travel by land, should be on their guard never to allow jugglers, or show-men, of whatever description, to enter their tents; which they will endeavor to do, under pretence of shewing off their mummeries, with the intention of ascertaining the posture of whatever moveables may be within. In this, they are sometimes mistaken; it being usual to have all boxes, camp-baskets, &c., assembled about the foot of the tent-pole, at night, and to secure them by means of a chain passing through their respective handles, &c.; the ends of the chain being furnished with a padlock.

In fair weather, the safest mode is to have all the things moved out of the tent, and placed in a heap, under charge of a sentry, who then need pay little attention to any other object, as the thieves are most intent on those trunks, &c., which they suppose to contain money, plate, &c.: as to articles of apparel, they are of little value, and would, probably, lead to discovery; the handles of swords, and breast-plates, of officers, being generally of solid silver, may be placed among the furtive desiderata, therefore, should be placed in a state of security.

When I speak of discovery, it is not to be understood that the same dread is entertained on that head, as prevails among the thieves of this quarter of the world. In India, whole villages are inhabited by thieves, who keep the country around in a state of perpetual terror and of vigilance: hence, when a _jemmadar_ furnishes _chokey-dars_, he often does it with great reluctance, under the apprehension of a visit from some neighbouring gang of notoriety, who act with greater confidence, from the consideration, that the village, at which the robbery may take place, will be accountable for whatever property may be stolen.

Hence, a party is always safest when encamped near a village of professed thieves, who will, ordinarily, forbear to depredate under that circumstance; conscious that the value put upon the several articles stolen, must necessarily be, at least, tenfold their value to the robbers; though not in the least exaggerated by those from whom they were stolen.

Here it is to be observed, that, in order to render the claim to remuneration clear and decisive, it is proper that a requisition should have been made to the _jemmadar_ for _chokey-dars_; otherwise, it may be argued, that the property was not under his protection. Sometimes, by way of cavil, a _jemmadar_, of such a description, will find fault with the position of an encampment, and use many pleas for the purpose of raising objections, whenever the losses sustained may be laid before the collector, or judge of the district. If, however, he should refuse to grant _chokey-dars_, it will be necessary to keep a very sharp look-out; it being a strong indication of intended mischief.

Almost every _jemmadar_ of character will reprobate the indulgence of that kind of curiosity which leads gentlemen, on their first arrival, to pay the smallest attention to the performances of mountebanks, jugglers, puppet-show-men, &c.; all of whom are notorious thieves, and are attended by numerous confederates, whose business it is to patrole about under the semblance of country-bumkins, come to view the camp, and to take advantage of whatever opportunities may arise, in consequence of servants, &c., quitting their several charges, to witness the exhibitions of the attractive portion of the gang.

My memory supplies various instances of the success of this stratagem; a circumstance not to be wondered at, when we consider the almost incredible perfection to which _leger-de-main_, the _tour de passe-passe_, and gymnastic exhibitions, are brought in India. I shall offer a few of the feats displayed by these people, observing, that, with regard to drawing yards of thread from the noses and ears of spectators; cutting their turbans into pieces, and joining them again; changing eggs to chickens, and mango-stones into growing bushes, bearing the ripe fruit, making pigeons lay eggs, &c.; all such are considered as mere common-place deceptions, confined to the lower orders of this class of vagabonds.

The passing a sword-blade, of about two feet in length, and two inches in breadth, down the gullet, so as to be distinctly felt by the application of a hand to the operator’s stomach, is certainly the most extraordinary part of the exhibition. In this, there is no deception whatever; the sword is entire, and firmly fixed to the handle; while its solidity is such as to remove all doubt regarding pliancy or evasion in any mode: all we can say of it is, that the practice is adopted at an early age; and that the implement used is gradually encreased, from a small rattan to that above described.

As to vaulting, the number of somersets, and capers, made, with seeming facility, while bounding over the backs of elephants, or of camels, placed side-by-side, are truly astonishing! Throwing spears at each other, and catching them under the arms, while in the act of mission, mutually, cannot but cause both dread and surprize: the accuracy with which this is constantly done, seems to preclude all admiration at the skill of the celebrated William Tell.

Jumping through a frame that supports several, perhaps a dozen, of _tulwars_, (cutlasses,) of which the edges are remarkably sharp, and which appear to preclude the passage of a man’s body through the little interval left among their points, must be viewed with admiration; as must also the running bare-foot along a piece of cloth, perhaps ten yards in length, that is supported, at about a foot from the ground, by several men, each of whom holds, under the cloth, a sharp _tulwar_, of which the edge is turned upwards: the astonishing agility with which this is performed, absolutely requires to be seen ere it can be duly appreciated!

Some curious performances in balancing are worthy of notice: of these, the stringing, and unstringing, of eggs, is, perhaps, the most extraordinary. A man balances, on his head, a kind of platter, projecting, perhaps, six inches every way, of rather a conical form, (inverted,) and furnished all around with draw-loops of, perhaps, a foot in length, and about two inches asunder: their whole number may amount to twenty, or more. On his left arm he bears a basket, containing as many eggs as there are loops attached to the platter.

Using one foot for a pivot, he keeps moving round by the aid of the other, so as make about ten revolutions in a minute, and, while in motion, successively takes the eggs from the basket, and, with his right hand only, puts each into a loop, drawing it tight, so as to retain the egg firmly in an equipoised state.

In this manner he strings all the eggs, and again unstrings and re-places them in the basket; he always moving the same way. When the whole are strung, the music quickens its time considerably, and the operator, conforming to the change, accelerates his pace in proportion, until the velocity acquired by the eggs is such, as to occasion their whirling on a level with the platter.

I consider this to be the most arduous of all the exercises in that branch which depends, principally, on delicacy and caution. If we consider how many chances of failure exist, whether from a slip of the foot, a want of attention to the due elevation of the elbow, the aptness of the unemployed loops to become entangled, the giddiness to be apprehended from turning full half an hour, with such speed, always the same way, and the possibility of allowing a newly-laden loop to fall into its place too suddenly, and the same in withdrawing it, when about to take out the egg; all these are certainly points very difficult to compass, or to avoid, and entitle the artist to unlimitted approbation.

I observe, in Cordiner’s Description of Ceylon, some feats of the jugglers in that island noticed as being beyond compare; but I cannot conceive any thing more dexterous than that operation, so common in Bengal, of balancing a bamboo ladder, about fifteen feet in length, on a man’s chin, and allowing a well-grown lad, or a young woman, to ascend to the summit, by winding in and out between the steps, (which barely admit the body to pass,) and ultimately to descend, head foremost, in the same manner, after balancing, horizontally, with extended arms and legs, on either standard of the ladder. I have often wondered what the man’s chin could be made of!!!

Swarming up a stout bamboo pole, of full twenty feet long, balanced on a man’s hip, or shoulder, and descending again, by first attaching to the summit by the toes, and measuring a whole length downwards, the back being against the bamboo; then turning the opposite way, and thus, in alternate succession; always appeared to me equally dangerous and astonishing. To perform this, a man must possess unconscionable strength in his toes and ankles: the first slip would infallibly be the last!

The puppet-shows, called _kaut-pootlies_, (_i.e._ wooden infants,) are certainly superior to Mr. Punch and his wife, as exhibited by various renowned persons throughout England. In India, there is to be seen far greater variety, both in the subject, and in the several dramatis personæ: there, something like a regular piece is represented, and it rarely requires a glossary, or interpreter, to define the several scenes; an aid, without which our artists, in general, make but little impression on their spectators, whose imaginations are generally set on the stretch to divine the meaning of various antics, which, though abundantly ludicrous, seem to proceed from momentary fancy, rather than from any regular system.

The _kaut-pootly-wallah_, or puppet-dancer, does not confine himself to a small centry-box-like theatre; on the contrary, when he is to display before any respectable persons, he makes a point of paying his respects during the day, and of soliciting the loan of either a small tent, a _konaut_, a _satrinje_, or some such article, for the purpose of enclosing and covering in the necessary space, so that he and his co-adjutors may perform their parts in secresy. It is commonly made a point that the performance should be by candle-light, and at some little distance from the line of tents. This is almost a _sine quâ non_ with this tribe, who, being in league with rogues of all descriptions, rarely fail to profit by the absence of servants from the charge of their masters’ property, and, while perhaps both master and man are grinning at the objects presented on the _proscenium_, are employed in removing from the tents whatever articles, of a portable description, may be exposed to depredation.

Sometimes the farce is concluded by a shower of clods, &c., thrown from a distance, and the whole fly in confusion. This is a device practised on the liberal, under the representation of the dealer in wood and wire-work, that some of the _nutkuts_, or frolicksome youths, of the camp, have battered the whole of the paraphernalia to pieces; in confirmation of which, some heads and tails of _ci-devant_ kings and queens are produced. I was once much amused with an imposition of this kind, that was practised, with admirable address, upon a good-natured field officer, who actually credited the representation, and, in addition to the loss of several candle-sticks, and some other small items, lent to the artists, compounded to pay for various fractures, simple and compound, sustained by the inanimate heroes!

Among the itinerant amusements of India, we must class the _nuts_, or tumblers, a people totally distinct from all the other inhabitants of the country, and who correspond, in a number of instances, with the gypsies of Europe. The following extracts from a paper furnished to the Asiatic Society by Lieutenant-Colonel D. T. Richardson, a gentleman of acknowledged abilities, and who has been remarkably industrious in obtaining a very complete acquaintance with the customs and languages of Hindostan, will display this matter in the best manner, and shew that a greater connection subsists, or at least has subsisted, between the _nuts_ of Asia, and the gypsies of Europe, than our literati are in general aware of.

At page 473, of the Asiatic Researches, we have the following passage. ‘Both the gypsies, and the _nuts_, are generally a wandering race of beings, seldom having a fixed habitation. They have each a language peculiar to themselves. That of the gypsies is, undoubtedly, a specimen of _Hindostanee_, and so is that of the _nuts_. In Europe, it answers all the purposes of concealment. Here, a conversion of its syllables becomes necessary.’ (_i.e._ in India.)

‘The gypsies have their king; the _nuts_ their _nardar-boutah_; they are equally formed into companies, and their peculiar employments are exactly similar; viz. dancing, singing, music, palmistry, quackery, dancers of monkeys, bears, and snakes. The two latter professions, from local causes, are peculiar to the _nuts_. They are both considered as thieves; at least, that division of the _nuts_ whose manners come nearest those of the gypsies. In matters of religion they appear equally indifferent; we know that neither the gypsies, nor the _budeea-nuts_, are very choice on that particular; and, though I have not obtained any satisfactory proof of their eating human flesh, I do not find it easy to divest my mind of suspicions on this head. Indeed, one would think the stomach that could receive, without nausea, a piece of putrid jackal, could not well retain any qualms in the selection of animal food.’

Colonel Richardson furnishes a number of words in use among the gypsies, which correspond immediately with others in the language of the _nuts_. I offer a few, which appear to me best adapted to the illustration of this point; observing, that the orthography used by the author, though perfectly correct, would not prove satisfactory to a person unversed in the Oriental pronunciation of the vowels. As a remedy, or rather an aid, absolutely necessary towards giving the European reader a perfect conception of the due intonations, I have, in this, followed my ordinary plan of spelling the Hindostanee words, in such manner as should enable a person totally ignorant of that language to pronounce them with propriety.

GYPSEY WORDS. HINDOSTANEE SYNONYMES. ENGLISH TRANSLAT.
Apra Ooper Above
Bebee Beebee Aunt, or lady
Pownee Pawnee Water
Devus Dewus Day
Rattee Raut Night
Can Caun Ear
Dad Dada Grandfather
Valashtee Belaist Finger
Mutchee Mutchee Fish
Gur G’hur House
Shing Sing Horn
Ballow Baul Hair
Shunalee Soonaie Hearing
Liecaw Leckap Writing
Dai Dhye Nurse
Mass Mass Food
Tod Dood Milk
Boot Bote Much
Nack Nauk Nose
Booro-panee Burrah-paunee Great water
Doriove Derriow River
Lolo Loll Red
Booro-chairee Burra-choory Great knife
Roop Roopah Silver
Saup Saump Snake
Dicken Deckna To see
Loon Noon Salt
Jaw Jow Go
Kali-coe Kul-ko Yesterday
Tschor Choor Thief
Dori Doory String
Rajah Rajah A lord
Ranee Rannee Princess
Raz Raj Principality
Banduk Baundook Musket
Jammadar Jemmadar An officer
Gour Gor Grave
Mul Mool Wine
Dur Door Jar
Jungustri Angootee Ring
Paka Punk Wing
Schut Kuttah Sour
Ker G’hur House
Sapa Savon Soap
Menghna Maungna To want
Pi Pee Drink
Metchana Putchana To know
Me-dikaka My-deckata I saw
Chabben Chabna To eat
Tober Tobula An axe
Starrie Sitara Star
Rashee Rishee Priest
Bocolee Bookap Hungry
Por Poor Full
Geecoa Jee-oo-ka Life, living.

The foregoing will suffice to give much insight into the affinity spoken of; especially when it is considered that the gypsey words are chiefly taken from Grellman’s Vocabulary, wherein we are to make considerable allowances for German intonation, especially regarding the vowel u, and the dipthong oo, as in _dur_, and _door_; and for _dori_, and _doory_; the slight differences between which, so far as is connected with orthography, would probably disappear if the words were spoken by a German gypsey, and a _nut_, respectively. Add to this, that the natives of India use the letters L, and N, rather promiscuously: thus, they say either _leel_, or _neel_, (for _blue_); the capital of Oude is as often called _Nucklow_, as Lucknow, and the word _noon_, (_salt_,) is very commonly pronounced _loon_; as in the gypsey language.

If it is considered that the foregoing comparison did not take place at a time when Colonel Richardson had the opportunity to examine closely into the particulars, by having access to European gypsies, whose familiar conversation, when explained, might have furnished numberless instances of accordance, which, from his accurate knowledge of the Hindostanee language, might ever have been such as to enable him to understand a gypsey colloquy; we must admit that strong probabilities exist, as to the _nuts_ and the _gypsies_ being branches from the same stock. Colonel Richardson observes, very properly, ‘Should any real Hindostanee scholars ever investigate this matter _on the spot in Europe_, their evidence and observations will probably settle the matter effectually, one way or other, for ever.’ He likewise remarks, that ‘Grellman, from a want of knowledge of the Hindostanee, lost many opportunities of producing the proper word, in comparison with the gypsey one’—and again, he forcibly remarks, that ‘It is not the accidental coincidence of a few words, but the whole vocabulary he (Grellman) produces, differs not so much from the common Hindostanee, as provincial dialects of the same country usually do from each other.’