Chapter XI: Part 11

at the angles and at intervals; the springing of a diagonal arch survives in the north-west angle. A well exists in the centre of the cloister garth, with stone steps leading down to it. The chapter house enters by a doorway only, without side windows, from the east alley (see Fig. 819). The jambs and pointed arch are moulded, but there are no caps. The chapter house is square, and has a central pillar, which carries fine vaulting (Fig. 823). The vaulting is divided into four square bays, each with cross ribs, resting on the central pillar and on responds against the walls, which have bases set on the stone bench. The bosses have been carved with coats of arms, now obliterated. One of them has a mitre; another shows indications of an apsidal building. The abbot’s seat occupies the centre of the east side, between the two windows; and a stone bench is carried round the walls.

The upper floor, which still survives, above the chapter house and sacristy (see Figs. 819 and 820) contained the scriptorium and library, the latter having had a good mullioned window, overlooking the cloister, now nearly destroyed. Following the ruins which continue the east side of the cloister southwards, we come first to a vaulted chamber, which may have been a parlour; then to the slype leading to the eastern garth, which has a stone bench on each side, and is covered with a segmental barrel vault. Beyond this are vaulted ruins of an indeterminate character. On the south side of the cloister garth are the refectory and part of the buttery, with a hatch which led from the one to the other. Between these apartments a wide scale staircase formed the day access to the dormitories above. This range of buildings is evidently of late date, and may have been the work of Abbot Gilbert M‘Brayar, above referred to. The refectory has been covered with a barrel vault, and had a fireplace in the north wall. The windows in the south wall are low, horizontal openings. The west side of the cloister is believed to have contained a large common room, but it is now much ruined; the pointed doorway at the north end, however, still remains.

The eastern courtyard is triangular in form. The ruin on the east side is probably a fragment of the infirmary. On the south side is a range of ruined vaults, over which was probably the abbot’s hall. At the south-east angle stand the ruins of what was the abbot’s keep, or place of strength, erected apparently in the sixteenth century. It is of the ordinary form of the lay keeps of the period, having thick walls, with chambers formed in their thickness and a corbelled parapet for defence. It no doubt communicated with the abbot’s hall adjoining. It is built over the stream which bounds the convent on the south, and passes under the lower story, where it had an archway, grated at each end. The principal floor contains a good fireplace, with ambry adjoining, and a small stair leading to the water below. The upper floors contained the usual bedrooms, one of which still shows the remains of a carved fireplace. The

north and east walls are demolished. The south and west walls are quite plain. Some of the corbels of the parapet, however, still survive.

The south-west courtyard is of considerable extent, and contained a number of domestic offices, such as bakehouse, brewhouse, &c. A picturesque gatehouse gives entrance to the monastery through this courtyard, and strangers’ apartments are provided in the upper floors.[155] The pigeon house is also a well preserved example of that common class of structure.

The ruins seem for a long period to have formed a convenient quarry for the district, but they were put in good order about fifty years ago by the Kilkerran family, and are now well preserved and cared for.

ST. GILES’ COLLEGIATE CHURCH,[156] EDINBURGH.

The Church of St. Giles occupies the site of the original parish church of Edinburgh. It stands in a conspicuous situation in the centre of the Old Town, on a comparatively level piece of ground (probably an ancient sea margin), which occurs in the general slope extending from the Castle to Holyrood. In the ninth century, when Lothian formed part of Northumbria, the Church of Edinburgh is mentioned as belonging to the diocese of Lindisfarne.

About 1120 a new church was erected by Alexander I., of which some fragments remained till the end of last century. This church is frequently referred to in subsequent reigns. Notice of it occurs under Alexander II., in the early part of the thirteenth century; in 1319, it is mentioned in an Act of Robert I.; and in 1359, under David II., a gift of lands is confirmed to it.

The earliest of these notices doubtless referred to the Norman church of the twelfth century, of which not a fragment now remains _in situ_; but some detached Norman carved stones, such as caps, have been found in excavations in the interior. The edifice appears to have been rebuilt about the time of David II.

In the constant wars with England Edinburgh naturally suffered much. It was damaged by Edward II. in 1322, when Holyrood Abbey was also spoiled. Under Edward III. the country was laid waste in 1335, when the capital was again injured. This raid, having occurred in February, was afterwards known as the “burnt Candlemas,” from the conflagrations raised during its continuance. A reconstruction of the edifice was probably required after these destructive harryings, and this appears to have been carried out during the fourteenth century. But shortly afterwards a most complete devastation of the town and all its buildings was occasioned by Richard II. during his invasion in 1385. He then occupied Edinburgh for five days, and, on his departure, laid the town and the parish church in ashes.

A great effort was made by the citizens on this occasion, along with assistance from the Crown, to repair the disaster to their church. From this period the history of the structure as it now exists may be said to date.

We have no account of the condition of the edifice immediately before its destruction in 1385, but it must (as above mentioned) have been to a large extent rebuilt before that time.

It is said that during the restoration which took place in 1870-80,[157] traces of fire were observed on the pillars of the choir, and it is inferred that these pillars must have existed before the burning caused by Richard II. This view is confirmed by the fact that, after 1387, when, doubtless, the town authorities were doing all they could to complete the restoration of St. Giles’, they entered into a contract with certain masons to erect five chapels along the south side of the nave, having pillars and vaulted roofs, covered with dressed stone slabs[158] These chapels still exist, and the wall rib of the vaulting is yet visible on the south side of the arcade, next the south aisle; but the vault and stone roof have been removed, and a plaster ceiling of imitation vaulting substituted. The above contract indicates that the walls of the nave then existed.

We must, therefore, assume that the church had been rebuilt previous to the destruction of 1385, and that the above contract was an addition to the building connected with its restoration two years after the fire. Although, doubtless, much injured by the conflagration, the walls and pillars of the church seem to have escaped total destruction. The style of the architecture would lead to the same view; the octagonal pillars of the choir, with their moulded caps, being most probably of the fourteenth century.

The church, as restored and added to after 1387, would then consist (Fig. 824)[159] of a choir of four bays, with side aisles; a nave of five bays, also with side aisles; a central crossing, north and south transepts, and the five chapels just added south of the nave. A large open porch, to the south of the central one of those chapels, was also erected along with them. It had a finely groined vault in the roof, and over it was a small chamber,

lighted by a picturesque oriel window, supported on a corbel, carved with an angel, displaying the city arms (Fig. 825).[160] The upper story, which is supposed to have been the revestry, was reached by a bold turret stair on the west side of the south porch.

The whole of the main divisions of the structure were vaulted; but the vault of the central aisles was low, being little higher than that of the side aisles. The massive octagonal piers of the crossing appear to have been raised about this period. The traces of the caps, which were cut off, are visible at a lower level (Fig. 826), and the few courses of ashlar work above them, with the new caps at the heightened level, may be traced as additions (Fig. 827). The vaulting of the crossing, with its central opening, was, doubtless, executed during the restoration of about 1400.

The ancient Norman porch, which formed the north entrance to the nave, was the only part of the twelfth century structure then preserved, and a small chamber was erected above it, with a narrow turnpike stair leading to it. The restoration seems to have been in progress for a considerable length of time. Donations from the Crown towards it continued to be given till 1413. It was probably completed about 1416.

Oriel originally over South Porch.]

Shortly after the erection of the five chapels on the south side of the nave, another chapel was built on the north side of the nave, to the

west of the old Norman doorway. This chapel, called the Albany aisle (Fig. 828), is 32 feet long by 12 feet in width. It opens from the nave

with two arches, which rest on a central pillar, and the roof is covered with groined vaulting in two bays. The central pillar and the two responds are moulded, and have caps and bases, all in the same style as those of the south chapels. The cap of the central pillar contains two shields, the arms on which not only give a clue to the date of the chapel, but also recall a dark passage in Scottish history. One of these shields (that on the south) bears the arms of Robert, Duke of Albany, the second son of Robert II. (the Scottish lion quartered with the fesse chequé for Stewart); the other, or north shield, bears the well-known Douglas arms, being those of Archibald, Fourth Earl of Douglas. These two noblemen were both implicated in the death of David, Duke of Rothesay, who, in 1401, was starved to death at Falkland Palace; and it is believed that this chapel was erected by them as a good work in expiation of their horrid crime, or, at least, in order to propitiate the clergy. The architecture of the chapel is light and elegant, and the vaulting is enriched with bosses, one of which contains the monogram of the Blessed Virgin.

Two other chapels were added on the north side of the nave, to the east of the Norman doorway, probably about this period. The eastern of these chapels was dedicated to St. Eloi.

The vaulting of the north aisle of the nave was almost necessarily rebuilt at the time when the north chapels were erected.

About half a century after the above restoration, great extensions and improvements were undertaken. It is believed, from the internal evidence of the architecture, that the extensions of St. Giles’ were carried out under the auspices of Queen Mary of Gueldres, by whom also Trinity College Church, Edinburgh, was founded in 1462.

During the fifteenth century St. Giles’ received many endowments, chiefly from merchants of Edinburgh, and increased considerably in wealth, so that funds would thus be forthcoming for the new work. Money was also contributed by the Town Council, who raised it by fines and otherwise.

The extensions undertaken at this time consisted of (1) the lengthening of the choir by one bay; (2) the heightening of the central aisle of the choir and vaulting it anew, together with the introduction of a new clerestory; (3) the lengthening of the transepts.

It is thus apparent that the edifice was to a great extent remodelled--the north and south aisles of the choir, and the central and recently renewed side aisles and chapels of the nave, being the only portions left untouched. The south aisle of the nave had (as above mentioned) been remodelled some fifty years before, when the five chapels were added to the south of it. The south wall of the south aisle had then been removed, and its place supplied by the pillars which connected it with the five added chapels (Fig. 829); while at the same time both aisle and chapels had been vaulted with finely groined vaults, having numerous moulded ribs springing from corbels inserted above the capitals.

1. The first of the alterations of about 1460, above mentioned, is the lengthening of the choir by one bay. The original east wall, no doubt,

stood where the two eastern free pillars now stand; and, the wall having to be removed, the two new pillars (Fig. 830) were substituted for it. These pillars and the two responds against the east wall tell a very remark-able

and interesting story, and prove beyond doubt the date of the work. Each capital contains four shields (Fig. 831), which are explained by Dr. Laing in the following manner:--The north or, as it is commonly called, the king’s pillar contains in its sculptured cap a series of heraldic emblems of special significance. The shield facing the east contains the royal arms (Fig. 832), with a label of three points, which, no doubt, denotes the infant heir to the throne, James III. The shield facing the west is also carved with the royal lion rampant, with its double tressure; but the top of the shield is unfinished. This is probably the arms of James II. The shield

facing the north contains the arms of Mary of Gueldres, impaled with the royal arms. This also is unfinished on the top. The shield facing the south has the three fleurs-de-lys for France, the old ally of Scotland. These shields clearly connect the pillar with Mary of Gueldres and her husband, James II., and their son, James III. The marriage of the king and queen took place in 1449, and James III. was born in 1453. His father was killed at the siege of Roxburgh Castle in 1460, and Mary of Gueldres died in 1463. The work was, therefore, probably executed between 1453 and 1463. The unfinished condition of the west and north shields may, perhaps, point to a date shortly after the king’s death and before that of Mary of Gueldres. The heraldic devices on the other pillars and responds are those of distinguished men of the time. On the pillar on the south side of the choir, the shield facing the east bears three unicorns’ heads (see Fig. 831), the arms of William Preston of Gorton, who bestowed (as we shall see) a great gift on the church. The shield on the west bears the arms of Bishop Kennedy (Fig. 833), a chevron between three crosses crossleted, surrounded by a double tressure. This prelate, who

was a grandson of Robert III., was Bishop of St. Andrews, and one of the most eminent men of the period. The shield on the north (Fig. 834) bears the arms of Nicholas de Otterburn, who was Vicar of Edinburgh in 1455, and who had been sent to France in 1448 in connection with the selection of Mary of Gueldres as the bride of James II. The south shield bears a castle, being the emblem of the city (see Fig. 831).

The north respond contains the arms (three cranes gorged) of Thomas Cranstoun, Chief Magistrate of Edinburgh in 1439 and also in 1454. As formerly, the good town which he represented would aid in the restoration.

The south respond bears the arms of Napier of Merchiston, Provost of Edinburgh, 1457--viz., a saltier engrailed, cantoned with four roses.

These new pillars and responds (Fig. 835) differ entirely from the older plain octagonal ones. They are of a form which became very common in Scotland after this time. The pillars are moulded, rather than clustered, and contain a variety of mouldings instead of shafts. These rise from a base which is moulded and ornamented with carvings, and is set on one or two high plinths. The pillar is crowned with a richly-moulded capital, the lower or bed mould being carved with cherubs’ heads, fitted into the re-entering angles of the pier, while the upper mouldings run in straight lines, and include several of the members of the piers in one stretch.

The mouldings of the main arches, which spring from these piers, are also richer than the plain splays of the older arches.

2. The heightening of the choir and the introduction of a new clerestory were also carried out shortly after the middle of the fifteenth century. The height of the former vault of the choir is shown by the vault of the crossing (Fig. 836), which it doubtless resembled, and which was not altered at this time. The former position of the vault of the choir is also indicated by portions of the groins, which have only been partly cut away, and which are still visible, springing directly from the caps of the choir piers at the previous low level (see Fig. 830). The ancient vault of the choir, springing, as it did, directly from the caps of the main piers, would only afford room under the wall rib for small clerestory windows. Traces of several similar small windows may still be observed over the main arcade on the south side of the nave, where they have been built up at some period--perhaps during the alterations in 1829; but the rybats and arches are still traceable. The outline of the old roof may also be observed against the east and west walls of the tower (see Fig. 836), the raglet and a stepped string course above it being yet preserved, and being specially apparent on the east side next the choir.

The condition of the walls where they have been heightened for the clerestory also indicates that some of the old vaulting has been cut off, and new masonry substituted. The clerestory is carried up so as to admit of good windows, each with arched head, and divided into two lights by a central mullion (see Fig. 830). The traceried heads have drop arches on the inside. The new vaulting is of simple, but elegant, design. The ribs of the vault are moulded, and are provided, besides the main cross ribs, with ridge ribs and intermediate ribs; and the junctions are all ornamented with large and finely-carved bosses, of which some examples are given (Figs. 837 and 838). The curved panels of the vaults are arranged so as to be either parallel or at right angles to the side walls, so that the joints of the stones composing the different vaulting surfaces are all set at right angles to one another, being the plan usually adopted in England, but not in France. The ribs of the vaults spring from the carved caps (Fig. 839) of short and light vaulting shafts, inserted in the side walls and resting on corbels, considerably above the caps of the main piers (see Fig. 830). The insertion of these shafts in the old masonry is plainly visible.

The beauty of the vaulting of the central aisle is particularly noticeable when contrasted with that of the side aisles. The eastern or extended bay of the choir aisles, being new, has been vaulted with groined vaulting in the same manner as the central aisle, but the old portions of the aisles are vaulted with what nearly approaches to a domical form (Fig. 840). Each bay has the usual transverse and diagonal ribs, but the surfaces of the vault are domed up above the wall rib at the side walls, so that the height to which the windows may be carried is greatly reduced from what it might be with groined vaults, similar to those of the central aisle. The difference of this style of vaulting from the true groined vaulting used in the eastern compartment is most marked, and its effect on the height of the windows is distinctly observable in the different divisions of the aisles.

The vaulting of the nave remained at this time unaltered at its comparatively low level, and over the vault of the central aisle there existed an attic story, which formed the house of the bell-ringer, and contained several rooms. The vaulting of the aisles of the nave (as above mentioned) had already been altered, and several chapels had been extended northwards from the north aisle. These projected beyond the old Norman porch, and thus placed it in a recess. The central crossing, with its vault, was left unaltered, and still remains in the same position, with its vaulting at the level it was raised to about 1400. It thus forms a break between the nave and choir, in both of which the vault has been raised (see Fig. 836).

3. The transepts were extended, their original length being marked by breaks in the roof, where the vaulting terminates. The extension is

specially observable in the vaulting, the vaults of the transept having to be carried on arches which rest on corbels, inserted in the arches of the aisles, in an awkward manner (see Fig. 829 and Fig. 841). The east window of the north transept, which had been long obscured by a structure built against it, was recently discovered and opened up. It is of good, but late, decorated work (Fig. 842), and probably gives an idea of the mullions which, no doubt, formerly existed in the windows of the nave and choir, but which have been removed and traceries of 1829 substituted. The details of this window, as shown in Fig. 842, are the only original window details now remaining in the church. The window is of three lights, with an arched transom ornamented with battlements, like some windows at Melrose. In the interior very elaborate niches were found, with ornamental canopies, which have been unfortunately much destroyed. Over the windows, on the outside, there were in position two corbels, supporting the wall-head parapet. As these would have been concealed by the vaulting of the Chambers aisle (which was recently inserted), they were built into the piers at the arch springers of the entrance to that aisle. Amongst the rubbish cleared out in opening up this window, a rude Norman capital was found built into the wall.

The north transept was considerably widened, in 1829, by setting back the west wall and wheel stair. A portion of the old arcading is still visible at the break on the west side.

It has been mentioned above that Sir William Preston of Gorton was a benefactor of St. Giles’. In 1454, after much trouble and expense abroad, and aided by “a high and mighty prince, the King of France, and many other Lords of France,” he succeeded in obtaining an arm bone of the Patron Saint, which he generously bequeathed to the church. The Town Council were so gratified with the gift that they resolved to add an aisle to the choir in commemoration of the event, and to place therein a tablet of brass narrating the bounty of Sir William. This aisle was to be built within six or seven years, “furth frae our Lady Isle where the said William lyis.” From this it appears that the south aisle of the nave was known as the lady chapel, and that Sir William had been buried there. The above resolution was carried into effect, and a new aisle, called the Preston Aisle (see Fig. 824), was constructed to the south of the lady chapel. In carrying this out the south wall opposite the three westmost bays of the choir was removed, and three arches carried on two piers substituted (Fig. 843). These piers and arches correspond with the work of the same period at the east end of the choir. The vaulting is also of a similar light and elegant character, and has similar intermediate ribs or tiercerons and ridge ribs. The vaulting is raised considerably above the arches next the aisle, and is carried on caps, which have short shafts resting on corbels. One of these contains a shield bearing the three unicorns’ heads of the Prestons.

Interior.

Exterior.

FIG. 842.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. East Window of North Transept.]

The aisle had one large window in the east end and three windows to the south. This structure extends into the choir the great width of the four aisles of the church previously formed in the nave, thus adding greatly both to the superficial area and to the appearance of spaciousness and grandeur of the edifice.

The church, in its full length and breadth, was now complete in all its parts, as it still remains internally, with a few exceptions, till the present day. It measures internally 196 feet from east to west by 125 feet from north to south across the transepts. The choir is 68 feet in width over the north and south aisles, and the Preston aisle is 45 feet 6 inches in length and 27 feet in width. The nave, including the five south chapels, is 81 feet in length by 91 feet in width within the walls.

Several additional chapels were afterwards thrown out. In 1513 an aisle of two arches was formed by Alexander Lauder, of Blyth, Provost of the city; and in 1518 the altar of the Holy Blood was erected in this aisle, which lay on the south of the nave, and to the east of the south porch, immediately adjoining the south transept. It was 29 feet long by 14 feet wide, and opened into the south chapels of the nave with two arches, and had two windows to the south. Between these windows, and recessed in the wall, has now been erected what was, doubtless, a handsome monument (Fig. 844), containing a recumbent statue, or was, as some suppose, part of the canopy of the altar.

During the alterations of 1829 one half of this chapel was obliterated; but the monument is still preserved, and its details are illustrated in Figs. 845 and 846.

In 1466 the Church of St. Giles was erected, by charter of James III., into a collegiate establishment, but is not called collegiate till 1475. The chapter consisted of a provost, curate, sixteen prebendaries, a minister of the choir, four choristers, a sacristan, and a beadle. Besides these, there were chaplains ministering at thirty-six altars in the church. The number of clergy connected with the establishment probably reached about one hundred, who were supported by its endowments. The perpetual vicar became the first provost, and the second provost was Gavin Douglas, whose translation of Virgil’s _Æneid_ into the Scottish language was the first version of a Latin classic rendered into any British tongue.

The erection of St. Giles’ into a collegiate establishment was chiefly effected through the exertions of the Town Council, who were desirous of raising the status of their parish church. A great impetus was thus given to the contributions of the faithful, and money for the “new work” was also raised by fines.

After this period a few additions still continued to be made to the fabric. A small chapel, called the Chepman aisle, was thrown out from the Preston aisle close to the south transept. It measures about 14 feet long by 12 feet wide, and opens from the Preston aisle with a pointed arch (Fig. 847). The ceiling is formed with a pointed barrel vault, ornamented with cross ribs, which spring from large carved corbels. This chapel was founded and dedicated to St. John the Evangelist by Walter Chepman, called the Scottish Caxton, from his having, in 1507, introduced the art of printing into Scotland. St. John’s emblem of the eagle (Fig. 848) is carved on one of the corbels of the roof. Chepman’s enterprise was greatly encouraged by James IV. and his Queen Margaret; and, in thankfulness for the royal patronage, this chapel was dedicated by Chepman, on 21st August 1513, to the welfare of the souls of the king and queen, and their offspring. This happened within a month of James’s death at Flodden, on 9th September 1513. Chepman himself was buried in this aisle in 1532. The south transept seems to have been extended southwards when the two chapels last mentioned were erected.

The only part of the interior of the structure still unmentioned is a chapel to the east of the north transept. This building was at one time used by the Town Clerk as his office, and contained several stories and a staircase. It is said to have been erected after the Reformation, but it was altered, having large windows inserted, and was connected with the church as a vestry in 1829. It has recently been set apart to contain the monument of Dr. Wm. Chambers, to whose liberality the city is indebted for the complete renovation of the ancient cathedral.

In 1829 the church was entirely renewed as regards the exterior, when two chapels to the south of those built in 1389 and the south porch were

removed. The round arched doorway of the south porch (Fig. 849) was again erected between the north pillars of the crossing as the entrance to the central division of the church. It has now been transferred to the entrance doorway to the royal pew at the east end of the Preston aisle. Fig. 850 shows the carved ornaments of this doorway, which are all in the decorated style of its period.

The only portions of the exterior which escaped renewal were the tower and steeple. Fortunately the well-known crown of St Giles’ (Fig. 851), which forms such a characteristic object in almost every view of Edinburgh, was not interfered with in 1829. The date of its erection is unknown, but to judge from its style it was probably built after the great alterations in the interior were carried out. This crown termination seems to have been a favourite feature with Scottish architects. The crown of the tower of King’s College, Aberdeen, was built after 1505, and similar crowns formerly existed on the towers of Linlithgow and Haddington churches. The crown of St. Nicholas’ Church, Newcastle, which is probably the only other steeple of this kind in Great Britain, is also of a late date. There is a crown of the same description on the tower of the Town Hall at Oudenarde, in Belgium,

which is also of late Gothic work, and there can be no hesitation in assigning a late date (probably about 1500) to that of St Giles’. It is a very picturesque and striking design, and accords well with its surroundings

in the Old Town. Some of the above crown steeples have an arch thrown from each angle to a central pinnacle, an arrangement which renders them rather thin and empty looking; but that of St. Giles’ has, in addition to the arches from the angles, another arch cast from the centre of each side to the centre pinnacle (Figs. 852 and 853). This produces an octagonal appearance, which, together with the numerous crocketed pinnacles with which the arches are ornamented, gives a richness and fullness of effect which is wanting in some of the other steeples of this description (Fig. 854). The steeple of St. Giles’ was partly rebuilt in 1648.

Towards the beginning of the sixteenth century, several of the guilds had chapels assigned to them, for which they contributed to the church funds. St. Eloi’s Chapel was given to the hammermen, and the “blue blanket,” the flag to which the trades rallied, was kept there. Other chapels and altars were set apart for the other corporations and trades, and maintained by them. Many individuals famous in Scottish history were buried in St. Giles’. Amongst these was Napier, the inventor of logarithms, who died in 1617. His tomb is now inserted in the exterior of the north wall of the choir, having been removed there, in 1829, from the south side of the church. There still exist the remains of an arched tomb recessed in the interior of the north wall of the choir, nearly opposite the above, but no clue can be found to the name of the person buried there. The Regent Murray, who was assassinated at Linlithgow in 1569, was buried in the south aisle. His monument was destroyed, but the brass plate containing the inscription written in his honour by George Buchanan was fortunately rescued, and has again been inserted in a new monument erected in the Murray aisle (Fig. 855). The scattered members of the body of the great Montrose were collected and buried in the Chepman aisle in the south part of St. Giles’ in 1661, but all trace of his remains has now been lost, and no monument till recently marked his grave.

The Norman doorway on the north side of the church, which had been carefully preserved for upwards of five centuries, and had survived all the above alterations and reconstructions, was taken down and removed in 1798, probably, as Sir D. Wilson suggests, “for no better reason than to evade the cost of its repair.”

The disturbances of the Reformation broke out in Edinburgh at an early date, and the Church of St. Giles was one of the first to suffer. In 1556 several of the images were stolen from the church, and next year that of St. Giles was carried off by the mob, and first drowned in the North Loch, and then burned. His arm bone, regarded as so precious one hundred years before, is supposed to have been thrown out into the adjoining churchyard. The church was pillaged and the altars and images cast down. The valuables, however, were taken possession of by the authorities and sold, and the proceeds spent in the repair of the

Plan through Pinnacle, looking down.

FIG. 852.--St. Giles’ Collegiate Church. Plans of Crown.]

structure. In 1560 St. Giles’ again became the parish church, with John Knox for its minister.

Amongst the disturbances of the period, St. Giles’ Church was seized upon, in 1571, by Kirkcaldy of Grange, who acted for the Queen’s party, and used it as a fortress. He put soldiers in the roof and tower, who riddled the vault with holes, so as to shoot down on their opponents.

After the Reformation the church was considered to be too large for Protestant worship, and in Knox’s time the Magistrates began to cut it up into sections, so as to form several churches. Other alterations were made at different times, and parts were appropriated to other than sacred uses; so that at one time, besides the High Church in the choir and the Tolbooth Church in the nave, there were included under the same roof a grammar school, courts of justice, the Town Clerk’s office, a weaver’s workshop, and a place for the “Maiden,” or instrument of public executions.

On the introduction, in 1633, of Laud’s new forms of worship, the church became the see of a bishopric, and the choir was fitted up as a cathedral.

Between the downfall of Episcopacy in 1637 and its restoration in 1661, it was once more Presbyterian; but having again become Episcopalian, the bishop was ejected at the Revolution, and the Presbyterian form of worship restored. These variations entailed several alterations in the mode in which the interior was divided up, but the condition of the building up to this century remained little altered for the better. The choir still formed a separate church, having galleries introduced round three sides of it, so as to completely spoil and conceal the architecture. The nave was divided with walls, so as to contain several separate churches, and other incongruous accommodation.

The Tolbooth Church occupied the south-west angle, and Haddow’s Hole Church the north-west angle. The Old Church comprised the south transept and portions adjoining, and the Preston aisle was partitioned off as a place of meeting for the General Assembly and other purposes. The dark portions under the crossing and the north transept were occupied as the police office.

The alterations and rebuilding of 1829 still left the edifice divided into three separate churches--the choir was appropriated to the High Church, the nave was made into West St. Giles’ Church, and the Old Church occupied the south transept and other portions adjoining. The police office, however, and the Town Clerk’s office were cleared out, and the north transept, which was occupied by the former, was converted into a spacious lobby, from which the three churches entered.

Although the ancient architecture of the exterior of St. Giles’ was entirely obliterated by the reconstruction of 1829, it should be added that some advantage was obtained by the removal of the small houses and booths which had been built against the structure and between the buttresses. The houses called the Luckenbooths had also encroached far too close to the edifice, and their removal was a great gain to the church and the town generally.

The position of affairs in connection with St. Giles’ was as above described when, as Lord Provost, Dr. William Chambers conceived the idea of removing the partitions which divided the structure, and again throwing the whole into one noble building. By his exertions, and greatly by his pecuniary aid, this object was effected between 1870 and 1883. The opening service after the restoration was performed by the Very Rev. Dr. Lees, in the presence of a congregation of 3000 people.

St. Giles’ Cathedral, as restored, is now, as regards its interior, one of the largest and most interesting Gothic buildings in the country.

ST. MICHAEL’S PARISH CHURCH, LINLITHGOW, WEST LOTHIAN.

A church dedicated to St. Michael existed here as early as the time of David I. A new church is said to have been erected in 1242, and in 1384 Robert II. contributed to its repair. A great fire occurred in 1424, from which both the palace and church suffered great damage, and the church seems to have been entirely rebuilt after that date. The reconstruction of the edifice no doubt progressed, under the James’s, simultaneously with the palace. In 1530-40, Thomas French, the king’s master mason, was engaged at Linlithgow,[161] and it is possible that the church may have received some internal embellishment under his direction.

This edifice is, in part, a good example of the Scottish decorated period. The nave is the earliest part of the structure, and, from its history and style, it would appear to have been erected before the middle of the fifteenth century. The choir is of somewhat later date. These two portions were separated by an arch, which was removed about 1814, when the choir was cut off by a wall from the nave, and converted into a church with galleries. At that time, too, the present plaster ceiling of nave and choir (in the form of groined vaulting) was substituted for the open oaken roof which was formerly visible. The original stone vaulting of the side aisles, however, still extends round the whole building. The plaster groining of the apse was introduced at the above period. Otherwise, the structure has been little altered in its leading features.

St. Michael’s (Fig. 856) consists of a choir, 53 feet from east to west, by 65 feet from north to south, including two aisles, and a three-sided apse at the east end; a nave, 95 feet in length by 65 feet in width, including two aisles; two chapels inserted in the place (on the north and south)

usually occupied by the transept; a square tower at the west end; and a south porch giving access to the nave.

From the style of the architecture, we have no hesitation in deciding that the nave is the oldest part of the structure. The simple section of the piers (Fig. 857), and their moulded caps, with circular abaci and characteristic bases (Fig. 858), together with the elegantly pointed arch mouldings, with their wide and effective spans, are all strongly allied to decorated work. The corresponding features in the choir (Fig. 859) are somewhat similar to those of the nave, but the details, especially the caps and bases of the piers, with their long, straight mouldings, are of a later character, and recall those of the east end of St. Giles’ Cathedral erected after the middle of the fifteenth century.

The vaulting of the side aisles, both in nave and choir, is of the simplest description, but bold and light in its effect. The bosses of the north aisle of the nave contain shields charged with armorial bearings, and still partly coloured. Small shields (without charge) are also picturesquely placed upon the nave piers (see Fig. 858).

A broad stone bench or seat is carried all round the nave, and the bases of the triple wall shafts of the vaulting, which are of good design, rest upon it. Those of the choir, which are of different design, descend to the floor, there being no bench in the choir.

In the nave there are triforium openings in each bay, and clerestory windows above them. The former have pointed arches, and each contains two pointed and cusped lights, divided by a central mullion. The clerestory windows have each a semicircular arch, and each contains a two-light pointed and cusped opening (see Fig. 858). Both clerestory and triforium openings have label mouldings in the interior. The light wall shafts which carried the wooden roof rest on corbels at the clerestory level. The choir (see Fig. 859) is distinguished from the nave by having no triforium openings, but the clerestory windows are similar in both.

The windows throughout the church are of large size, and mostly filled with good and varied geometric tracery (Fig. 860). That of the south transept has six lights, and the tracery (which has been renewed) is of good design. The restoration of the tracery of this window was carried out about 1840 by William Roberts, mason, who executed the work bit by bit, making the new tracery an exact copy of the old, which had been a good deal damaged. The south transept contained the altar of St. Katherine. It was in this transept that the strange apparition was seen by James IV. which warned him against his fatal expedition into England before the battle of Flodden.

The apse (Fig. 861), which is three-sided, is somewhat awkwardly fitted on to the choir, being formed like a large bow window, extending beyond the choir, from which it opens by a large semicircular arch in the east wall (see Fig. 859). This wall is continued upwards on the exterior, so as to form a gable, finished with crow-steps. The windows of the apse are large, and the tracery of two of the windows is perpendicular in character.

The transepts (or north and south chapels) and the south porch are constructed in a somewhat peculiar manner (see Figs. 862 and 863), having crow-stepped gables both on their outer walls and also over the inner or aisle wall which separates them from the church. The upper part of these structures does not thus interfere with the aisle roof, but stands apart from it, allowing the aisle roof and the clerestory to pass clear behind them. The north chapel, with its round turret (see Fig. 862), forms a very picturesque feature of the edifice. Each of these partly detached adjuncts contains an apartment over the vault (see Fig. 856). The chambers over the north transept and south porch are approached by turret stairs, while access to that over the south transept is obtained by passing along the gutter from the south porch and entering by a door in the inner gable. The room over the south porch seems to have been a place for preserving documents, there being three wall presses, one having had double doors. The light from the small oriel over the arch of the porch is not good. The room over the south transept is provided with a large fireplace, and may have been used as a kitchen; that over the north transept is empty and bare. The south porch, with its picturesque upper oriel and stair turret (Fig. 863), is a very interesting part of the edifice. The doorway has good mouldings and bold enrichment in the arch, and the corbelled oriel is a peculiar adjunct to the church. A similar one existed at St. Giles’, Edinburgh.

The parapet of the south aisle of the choir is provided with plain gargoyles (Fig. 864), twisted so as to throw the water off the windows; but that of the nave has no gargoyles, the water being removed by pipes. The cornice of the nave is also different from the rest of the building, and has the appearance of being a comparatively recent repair. This may have been executed at the same time as the repair of the tower (to be referred to). The junction of the different parts of the parapet and clerestory is seen in Figs. 860 and 864.

The forms of the buttresses are worthy of notice (see Figs. 860 and 864). Those of the nave have a simpler character than those of the apse and north transept. They are all well enriched with niches, having carved canopies and corbels, but those of the choir and north transept contain a more minute style of carving and ornament than those of the nave. The numerous set-offs of the buttresses of the apse (see Fig. 861),

and the small and paltry character of the finials of the north transept (see Fig. 862), indicate a late date. The canopies of the niches are

ornamented in a somewhat elaborate style (Fig. 865), some of the ornaments having a strong resemblance to the style of many of the enrichments at Rosslyn.

The buttress of the south-west angle of the nave, crowned with the sculptured figure of St. Michael (Fig. 866), forms a striking feature on approaching the church. To the left, under the west window of the south aisle of the nave, may be observed three corbels in the aisle wall, which have apparently carried a pent roof, under which there is an oblong aperture in the wall of the church. It is said that pensioners here received their dole, but the use of the opening is not clear.

The western tower (see Fig. 860) once formed an important feature of St. Michael’s. It was originally terminated with a crown of open stonework, similar to that of St. Giles’ in Edinburgh. But, about 1821, this crown was found to be in a dangerous state, and had to be taken down. The tower would appear to have been an addition to the original structure. The Plan shows that a part of the original west wall has been cut out, and the thicker wall of the tower inserted. This is seen both externally and internally, and the awkward junction of the tower with the nave is also apparent. The tower itself is of good design, but late--probably of the same period as the apse. It contains a remarkable entrance doorway (Fig. 867), quite Continental in style, which may possibly be the work of Thomas French, the king’s master mason. Above this doorway there is a large perpendicular window. The upper part of the tower is plain and solid, and would contrast well with the airy crown on top.

In the interior the tower is designed so as to produce a good effect. It opens into the nave with a wide and lofty arch (Fig. 868) carried up to the clerestory level; and the groined vault of the tower, with the large window below, as seen through the arch, produce a good effect. In

each side wall of the tower there is a richly canopied recess, evidently intended to receive monuments or sculpture, but now empty.

A portion of what appears to have been a carved altar-piece has been preserved in the church (Fig. 869). It consists of two panels, which have evidently formed part of a series, representing scenes in our Lord’s Passion and death. The panel on the left shows the scene in the garden, with the three apostles asleep; and the panel on the right exhibits the betrayal.

The Church of St. Michael’s is one of the largest of the ancient parish churches of Scotland. The wall which separated the nave and choir has recently been removed, and the whole thrown into one church. In 1559 the building was taken possession of by the Lords of the Congregation, in their march from Perth to Edinburgh, when the altars and images were destroyed, the figure of St. Michael (see Fig. 866) only escaping demolition.

The steeple contains three old bells--one dated 1490, and the other two recast during the eighteenth century.

ST. MONANS CHURCH, FIFESHIRE.

St. Monans is the name of one of the numerous fishing villages on the Fifeshire coast of the Frith of Forth, and lies about three miles west from Anstruther. The village derives its name from St. Monan, who, by tradition, is believed to have been a missionary to the Picts in the eighth century, and to have suffered martyrdom by the Danes on the Isle of May. His body is said to have been buried on the mainland; and over it a small chapel was subsequently erected, which had a reputation for cures. Dr. Skene, however, thinks that St. Monan was Bishop of Clonfert, and that his relics were brought from Ireland to Fife about 845, and deposited in a church erected in his honour.[162] This original chapel was replaced with a larger edifice by David II. in 1362, in gratitude for his miraculous escape, through St. Monan’s influence, from the fatal effects of the barb of an arrow with which he was wounded at Durham. Sir William Dishington, of the adjoining estate of Ardross, was appointed master of the works;[163] and between 1362 and 1370 the sum of £613, 7s. was paid to him in connection with the fabric, besides £6, 13s. 4d. for the carpenter work. Dishington hired a ship from a burgess of Inverness to convey timber from there for the building; and there appear to have been three freights, which cost for transit £20, £10, and £7, 17s. 8d. In 1364 and 1366, before the church was finished, there are payments to at least three chaplains celebrating at St. Monans, two of whom had £10 and the other 20 merks yearly.[164]

About a century after the founding of the church, it was bestowed by James III. on the Dominicans. In 1544 it is said to have suffered a good deal at the hands of the English. The structure, however, still survives, and has long been used as the parish church. It is most picturesquely situated on the rocks, at the junction of a small stream with the sea; and, although exposed to the violence of the tempests and the waves for several centuries, it still retains more of its original architecture than most of our more favourably situated churches.

The building (Fig. 870) consists of a chancel, north and south transepts, and a tower and spire over the crossing. Although a nave has evidently been intended, it has never been built. The chancel is 50 feet long by 23 feet wide internally. It is divided into four bays, marked externally by buttresses, with traceried windows between them (Fig. 871); and, internally, by groined vaults, springing from wall shafts between the bays (Fig. 872). The east end (see Fig. 871) has two traceried windows, with a buttress between, surmounted by a small oblong light, filled with tracery. The north and south transepts are each 17 feet in length by 18 feet in width. The north transept (Fig. 873) has a three-light window to the north and a two-light window to the west; and the ceiling is covered with a groined vault, having numerous ribs. The south transept (Fig. 874) has two windows to the south and one to the west. The crossing has large clustered piers supporting the arches (see Fig. 872), which carry the tower and spire. The western end is built up with a solid wall (see Fig. 874), without any indication of an arch to the nave. It contains a tall traceried window of two lights, with a transom in the centre of the height. A turret stair at the north-west angle leads to the top of the tower.

The evidence of the _Exchequer Rolls_ is conclusive as to a church having been erected here, at considerable outlay, in the fourteenth century; but,

to judge from the architecture alone, it seems scarcely possible to believe that the church we now see is the one erected in the time of David II. All

the features of the structure point to a date later by about a century. The church having been bestowed by James III. on the Dominicans, one would be inclined to ascribe the erection or, perhaps, restoration of the edifice to his reign. The style of church erected in the fifteenth century was generally a cross church, without aisles. St. Monans is designed on