Chapter XII: Part 12

that plan, and, like many of the other cross churches, remains incomplete, the nave not having been erected. In almost all its details it corresponds with the Scottish structures of the fifteenth century. The windows have all splays running round the jambs and arches, without caps; and the tracery is of an undoubtedly late Scottish form (see Figs. 871 and 875). The curious small upper window in the east end could scarcely be of fourteenth century date.

The vaulting (see Fig. 874) is groined, and has main and subsidiary ribs or tiercerons. This is not usual in the collegiate churches of the fifteenth century, in which the pointed barrel vault is commonly used; but we have one prominent example in the Trinity College Kirk of Edinburgh, built about 1460, in which groined and ribbed vaulting was fully carried out. The ribs at St. Monans are arranged in a rather singular manner. There is a well-marked ridge rib, and there are also transverse ridge ribs; but the latter stop at the point where the tiercerons meet them; and from that point the transverse ridge ribs slope down to the apex of the windows, where they are received by a small corbel (Fig. 875). The tiercerons are also irregularly placed; they do not spring, like the other ribs, from the cap of the vaulting shaft, but die away into the wall some way up the wall rib. These peculiarities have the appearance of late and imperfect workmanship. It will be observed that the single wall shafts, from the capital of which the vaulting ribs spring, have no bases.

The sedilia (see Fig. 875) in the south wall of the choir of St. Monans may be regarded as decorated work. We find similar, and even finer, work of this description at Crosraguel Abbey in the fifteenth century.

The buttresses are simple, and might belong to almost any period. It should be stated that the tops of the buttresses were “restored” early in this century. The want of a parapet at the roof is peculiar, and may possibly be the effect of restoration. It is evident that a parapet has been intended at the gable of the south transept, where there is a door for access to the parapet walk (see Fig. 874). The peculiar character of this transept is remarkable. The two small round-headed windows, with their deep recess, and the great expanse of dead wall above them, must certainly be considered as of late design.

The stunted style of the square tower (see Figs. 871 and 873), which just rises above the roofs, is quite in keeping with the Scottish towers of the fifteenth century. The parapet is supported on corbels, which are different on three of the sides. The tower is surmounted by an octagonal spire, which is of the usual rather stunted form common in the fifteenth century. Some of the details, such as the numerous lucarnes, may be even later.

It will be observed that the sedilia is placed at a considerable height above the floor. This may arise from the steps leading to the altar having been removed, and the floor of the whole of the east end lowered to the general level of the choir; or, perhaps, the floor of the whole church has been lowered. The bases of the piers at the crossing, which are of a very unusual height, would rather support the latter view (see Fig. 872).

It is not clear where the original entrance to the church was situated. Two doors in the east end now give access to it, but these are clearly modern innovations. There is a pointed doorway in the north wall of the choir (see Fig. 872), which now gives access to a vestry, and, from its position, it seems likely to have originally led to the sacristy.

Whether viewed from the village as one approaches the church from the opposite high bank of the burn (see Fig. 873), or as seen from the rocky shore (see Fig. 871), the Church of St. Monans, both from its situation and the completeness and charm of its ancient architecture, is one of the most picturesque and interesting structures of its class in Scotland.

Although, from what is above said, we cannot regard this structure as so old as 1360, still we consider it worthy of being included amongst the Scottish examples of decorated work.

WHITHORN PRIORY, WIGTONSHIRE.

The name of Whithorn is a venerable one in Scottish annals. Here, according to tradition, St. Ninian, in the beginning of the fifth century, planted the first seeds of Christianity in Scotland. It is disputed whether his first oratory, called _Candida Casa_, was established, after the manner of the early hermits, on a small isle or peninsula at the point of the promontory which lies between the bays of Luce and Wigton, about three miles south from Whithorn, or on the spot where the monastery afterwards arose. There are the ruins of a small chapel[165] on “The Isle,” and although that structure evidently belongs to a much later time, it is surmised by Mr. Muir and others that it is probably the successor of St. Ninian’s first foundation.

It has been mentioned in the Introduction[166] that other indications exist in this region in the form of ancient sculptured stones, which point to its early Christianisation, and that after a great school of religious instruction had been established here, it gradually died out, and became practically extinct. But under David I. a new religious fervour arose, and the diocese of _Candida Casa_ was established between 1124 and 1130. This part of Galloway having been long under the sway of Northumbria, the bishop remained under the jurisdiction of the see of York till 1472, when the archbishopric of St. Andrews was constituted; and, in 1491, when Glasgow was made a metropolitan see, the Bishop of Galloway became Vicar-General.

The priory of Whithorn was founded in the time of David I. by his friend Fergus, Lord of Galloway. It was colonised by Premonstratensian Canons, and became the chief church of the diocese of Galloway.

The sanctity of St. Ninian’s shrine was universally recognised, and it was constantly visited by thousands of pilgrims, many of them the most distinguished persons in the land. King Robert Bruce made the pilgrimage to Whithorn in 1329, not long before his death. Other royal personages also visited the ancient seat. James IV. paid annual visits, and sometimes went twice in the year. From the _Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer_ we learn that he made the pilgrimage in state, accompanied by a large retinue, including his minstrels. The priory naturally became wealthy, and the church and other buildings were of great extent.

In 1587 the property was, by Act of Parliament, annexed to the Crown; and in 1606 it was granted by James VI. to the Bishop of Galloway. It became transferred, in 1641, to the College of Glasgow, and finally, in 1689, it reverted to the Crown.

All the documents which might throw light on the history of the monastery have, unfortunately, been lost. They are supposed to have either been destroyed or carried abroad by the canons at the Reformation. Some distinguished men held the office of prior, amongst whom were Gavin Dunbar, who was prior in 1514, and afterwards tutor to James V., and Archbishop of Glasgow; and James Beaton, who also subsequently became Archbishop of Glasgow and St. Andrews.[167]

Of the extensive buildings of the monastery there remained standing, in 1684, according to Symson, only the steeple and the body of the great church; all the remainder was in ruins, or had been carried away. The

1. Foundations of West Tower, which fell at the beginning of last century.

2. Gable then erected, closing and contracting Parish Church.

3. In its complete state, Nave of the Old Priory Church, closed at east end by a sixteenth or seventeenth century gable.

4. Burial Vault of the Murrays of Broughton, seventeenth century.

5. Site of Cloisters.

6. Site of Domestic Buildings of Priory, on the foundations of which the present Parish Church was erected, 1822.

7. Ancient Entrance to Domestic Buildings.

8. Remains of Slype, uncovered December 1888.

9. Piece of well-laid Rubble Causeway, with good Camber.

10. Chapter House, Site of.

11. Remains of Pillar found in situ.

12. Small portion of twelfth century South Transept.

13. Crypt of a later Transept, with small circular and domed chamber, and angle buttresses of uncertain projection.

14. Chancel Crypt, originally rib-vaulted, now barrel-vaulted.

15. Stair from Church to Crypt, now blocked.

16. Larder, or Apartment connected with the preparation of edible animals for the kitchen.

17. Foundations of Lady Chapel.

Making the entire length of Buildings, inclusive of West Tower, nearly 250 feet.]

tower at the west end of the church, which contained the belfry, fell more than a century ago, and, in falling, destroyed the west gable of the church.

The buildings of the priory have now been reduced to the nave (Fig. 876), an aisleless structure, 74 feet long by 24 feet wide internally, and to some underground vaulted buildings, which no doubt formerly supported the choir and other erections above. Considerable excavations and investigations have recently been made on the site by the Marquis of Bute, under the careful superintendence of Mr. William Galloway, architect, whom we have to thank for the accompanying Plan (Fig. 877) showing the outline of all that remains of the priory. The explanations attached to the Plan give Mr. Galloway’s views as to the various parts of the edifice.

The west tower (1), which fell in the beginning of last century, is now a mere ruin a few feet in height, and the new west wall (2), built in consequence of the destruction of the old gable wall, diminishes the size of the nave. The eastern wall of the nave (Fig. 878) is a post-Reformation erection, evidently added to enable the old nave to be used as a parish church. The cloister (5) lay to the north of the nave, which accounts for there being no windows in the north wall of the latter. Not a vestige now remains of the cloister walk or garth.

The chapter house (10), slype (8), and (6) site of domestic buildings extended to the north of the transept. The old foundations and portions of walls remain in connection with the parts tinted black. The parish church (6) is now built on old foundations, with a porch at 7. 9 shows a piece of causeway flooring _in situ_, and 11 is the foundation of a pillar of the chapter house. The crypts (14), which are on a basement floor, show the extent of the choir, and 13 is the crypt or basement of a large building to the south. A considerable portion of the vaulting of these crypts has been preserved. To the east 17 probably indicates the foundations of the lady chapel. To the north of the choir is a detached structure (16), believed, from the remains of feathers, &c. found in it, to have been a larder. The remainder of the ground is entirely covered with graves, so that it was only accidentally that a small portion of the foundation of the south transept (12) was discovered.

The nave (see Fig. 878) still retains its ancient side walls, which are probably of the fifteenth century. The south-east doorway is of good form, and the mouldings are also good. “It bears the arms of Alexander Vaus, Bishop from 1426 to 1450.”[168] In the interior (Fig. 879) the north wall

contains two pointed recesses for monuments, of which the design is excellent. The general design is of first pointed character, but the moulding on the left side has been repaired with ornament of fifteenth

century work. The most important feature connected with the nave is the doorway at the south-west angle (Fig. 880). It is set in a slight projection of the wall, which contains features, such as the pointed window over the doorway, which indicate a late period. The doorway itself is undoubtedly Norman, and probably of an early date. It is much worn away, and has been greatly damaged by the erection of a porch (now removed), the roof of which has cut into the mouldings. The shafts are built in nooks, and have caps carved with owls’ heads and other ornaments, now much decayed. One cap is carved with a quatrefoil, which is certainly a late addition. The abacus is of simple section, and is carved with sunk faceted ornaments. The arch comprises four orders, besides a hood mould. Three of these orders are enriched with chevron ornaments, and one order (the second from the inner opening) has an irregular arrangement of geometric patterns and circular discs. Similar geometric patterns are introduced in the west doorway at Dunfermline Abbey. It will be observed that some of the voussoirs are incomplete. Thus in the outer order the second voussoir to the left of the head over the centre has the chevron very imperfectly cut, and is evidently an insertion. The same remark applies to the voussoir below it to the right, which has only one half of a chevron, and in the next order straight below the head a rounded stone is substituted for the proper voussoir. All these divergences from the usual careful work of Norman building seem to indicate that there has been an alteration of the doorway. Most probably it has been rebuilt and the imperfect voussoirs introduced to make up deficiencies in the old work.

The hood mould, which is plain, had a terminal at each end, carved as a large human head.

The remarkable figures carved on the projecting wall, above each side of the arch, are worthy of observation. The sculpture on the right side and the lower one on the left have a strong resemblance to the figures often found on the ancient sculptured stones, and, when taken in connection with the sculptures at Dalmeny, point to a close affinity between the sculptured figures on the ancient stones and the architecture of the twelfth century in Scotland. It may be mentioned that many fragments of sculptured stones, chiefly carved with interlacing work, have been dug up in the neighbourhood, and are kept in the existing part of the old church.

The ancient font (Fig. 881) has been preserved. It is bowl shaped and extremely simple in design, and may be of Norman date. Mr. Galloway informs us that it was long used as a trough for pounding stucco, and stood at the Town Hall. It is now reverently placed in the church.

TEMPLE CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN.

The ancient Church of Temple is beautifully situated in the valley of the river South Esk, about three miles from Gorebridge Railway Station, and seven miles south from Dalkeith. As the name implies, this site was (in the time of David I.) the residence of the Knights Templars.

Before the Reformation there were three churches in the upper valley of the Esk, which belonged to the monks of Newbotle. One of these, called Balentradoch, was granted by Pope Clement V., in 1312, after the suppression of the Templars, to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John. At the Reformation the three churches were united into one parish, and the existing structure was used as the parish church till 1832, when a new church was erected near it.

The plan of the church (Fig. 882) is a simple oblong, 55 feet in length by 17 feet 9 inches in width internally. A portion at the west end, measuring about 17 feet 6 inches externally, has been added since the Reformation. This portion contained a gallery, entered by a high outside doorway in the north-west corner. There are in the west wall a round-headed doorway on the ground level and a high window with two pointed lights over it. Some doorways have also been opened in the older part of the structure about the same time--viz., one in the centre of the north wall and one at the east end of the south wall.

The more ancient part of the building is in good preservation, although roofless. It contains a large traceried window in the east wall (Fig. 883), and has had two traceried windows, each with three lights, in each of the side walls. These windows are well preserved, except the west one in the north wall, which has been practically removed and built up, only the interior sconsions being now traceable. To the west of the above windows there occur two narrow lancet windows, one in the north and one in the south wall, opposite one another. There is an ancient trefoil-headed doorway in the north wall (Fig. 884), and at the north-east angle of the same wall a broad set-off is visible at a high level,

indicating that there must have been some structure with a sloping stone roof (possibly a monument) under it. The wall at this place has been rebuilt. In the interior of the north wall (Fig. 885), under the eastmost side window, a segmentally-arched recess is introduced. It is about 6 feet 2 inches long, and has had good mouldings springing from small shafts and caps, but is now greatly destroyed. This may have been an easter sepulchre. In the interior of the south wall there has been a sedilia with two seats (see Fig. 885), each having a trefoil-headed arch, with bold roll on edge, of which only a small portion survives.

Externally (see Fig. 883) the building is provided with a buttress at each side of the east end, and another at right angles to it at the south-east angle. A similar buttress occurs on the south wall between the two south windows. These buttresses are all finished with acute gablets and fleur-de-lys ridges, and the string course and base are returned round them.

Details of Windows.]

Details.]

The east window has a double splay on the jambs (Fig. 886), and the arch mouldings, which consist of bold rolls, partly filleted, die against the splays. The hood moulding has carved terminals, apparently of animals. The intersecting tracery is simple, and the mullions are splayed, and each aperture between the curved branches of the mullions contains a chamfered circle. There is no cusping.

In the interior (see Fig. 885), the opening of the east window being wider than on the exterior, the arch is larger and the springing is lower. It is moulded with a large filleted roll, and has a hood (Fig. 887). The roll rests on a round moulded cap, which crowns the angle shaft of the sconsion.

Temple Church, Rear Arch of Side Windows.]

The side windows have also arch mouldings, which die against the splays of the jambs (see Fig. 886), and the hoods are terminated with roses, or animals like lizards, much decayed. The tracery is simple, and the large circle over the central light is peculiar. The sconsions are plain, but the sconsion arches are segmental and moulded (see Figs. 885 and 888). The two lancet windows to the west have hoods terminated with roses, and the sconsion arches are segmental and moulded. Beneath the windows a filleted roll runs round the building as a string course, and one course below it is a broadly splayed base course, with a lower base under it (see Fig. 883). These mouldings only extend round the older part of the structure, the newer portion at the west end having a separate base of a different character.

The east gable still retains its sloping cope, which has at the base a small gablet erected upon the skew putt, finished with a fleur-de-lys ridge. In the gable (see Fig. 883) over the east window there is a circular aperture, now blocked up; and on the apex there has been erected, in comparatively recent times, a plain bellcot, with pyramidal roof.

On a stone at the base of the bellcot the following Roman letters have been run in with lead--viz., V Æ S A C, and below these, M I H M. Round the corner of the same stone, on the north side, are the similar letters R I. The meaning of these letters has not been explained. Possibly the stone has been brought from somewhere else, where the context might have rendered the letters intelligible.

From the general style of the details of the building there can be no difficulty in fixing its date during the middle pointed period. Most of the mouldings are of an early character, but some of the features (such as the arch mouldings dying on the jambs) are later. Besides, in Scotland allowance must be made for backwardness, and we should be inclined to regard this structure as being of about the end of the fourteenth century. It is valuable as an example of the decorated period in Scotland, of which period few, if any, parish churches are now to be found.

THE PARISH CHURCH, HADDINGTON, EAST LOTHIAN.

The town of Haddington is situated on the left bank of the Tyne, near the centre of the county to which it gives its name. It is of very ancient date, having been a royal residence from the time of David I. till the thirteenth century. The last remains of the royal palace were only removed in 1833. The town was formerly well provided with ecclesiastical edifices, having, besides the Parish Church, the monasteries of the Franciscans and Dominicans, the Cistercian Nunnery (about a mile lower down the river), and the chapels of St. Martin, St. Ann, St. Katherine, St. John, and St. Ninian. Of these establishments, the only one (except St. Martin’s, already described)[169] of which any trace of the structure remains is the Parish Church, which, although now to a great extent ruinous, still retains enough of its noble architecture to justify its ancient name of the “Lamp of Lothian.”

Considerable difference of opinion has been expressed as to the identity of the existing edifice. Dr. Barclay, who wrote in 1792,[170] says:--“I am decidedly of opinion that the present Parish Church of Haddington is the same that formerly belonged to the Franciscans, and which Major says was called _Lucerna Laudoniæ_; as a field, now converted into a garden, and which is still styled the Friars’ Croft, lies contiguous to the churchyard, and is not above 30 yards distant from the Parish Church.”

On the other hand, as has been pointed out by Mr. Robb in his _Guide to Haddington_, the site of the property of the Franciscans is fully described in the charter of 1560 disponing it to the burgh, which charter is signed by one of the friars. From this it appears that the position of the Church of the Franciscans, as defined by the boundaries of their lands, lay a little way lower down the river. One of the boundaries is called in the charter the high road leading towards the Parish Church, thus indicating that the Parish Church was different from the Church of the Franciscans. Besides, the other boundaries are pretty distinctly defined, and may still be followed.

This matter has been further fully discussed in a paper by Mr. Henry F. Kerr, in the _Transactions of the Edinburgh Architectural Association_, Vol. I. p. 21, in which Mr. Kerr concurs with Mr. Robb’s views.

The Church of the Franciscans, as ascertained from an old charter of the friars, was founded in 1258, and was a splendid structure. Not a trace of it now remains.

Another croft, nearer the Parish Church, called the King’s Yard, of which the boundaries are described, also belonged to the Franciscans. On this land Haddington House[171] was erected in 1680, and the croft was converted into a garden. In 1477 King James III. made over this field to Sir Richard Cockburn of Clubington, who afterwards gave it as a gift to the friars of the Franciscan monastery. At the Reformation the friars disponed it to the town, and its boundaries are fully described in a charter of 1580.[172] It is believed that this is the field, “still called the Friars’ Croft,” which misled Dr. Barclay into the belief that the Parish Church was that of the Franciscans.

The Abbey, or Nunnery, of Haddington (above referred to as being one mile east of the town) was of ancient foundation, having been founded, in 1178, by Ada, Countess of Northumberland, widow of Prince Henry, and mother of Malcolm the Maiden and William the Lion. It was occupied by Cistercian Nuns, and possessed the Nungate, or suburb of Haddington, lying on the east side of the Tyne. Owing to its situation so near the Borders, and also to its proximity to the Tyne, the town of Haddington and its religious establishments were much exposed to injury, both by the invading hosts from the South and by the flooded waters of the river, and it also suffered severely on several occasions from fire. The town was burnt in 1244.

In 1355 Edward III. invaded Scotland, when the town and the Church of the Franciscans were destroyed, together with numerous other towns and churches in the South of Scotland. So severe was this attack that it was long recalled in that part of the country as the “burnt Candlemas,” the invasion having taken place in the month of February.

In 1358 the town was overwhelmed with an extraordinary inundation, when the Nungate, or suburb on the eastern bank of the river, was levelled with the ground, and the sacristy of the church was flooded and its contents destroyed.

The ancient Church of Haddington, which was dedicated to the Virgin, was founded by David I., and by him granted, in 1134, to the priory of St. Andrews. The existing structure is of considerably later date. There is no record of its erection; but, from the style of the architecture, it was probably rebuilt in the first half of the fifteenth century.

The church (Fig. 889) is cruciform, having choir and nave, both with side aisles, and north and south transepts without aisles. The choir is 77 feet long and 54 feet 11 inches wide internally (including the aisles), and consists of four bays; the transept is 105 feet 4½ inches long, from north to south, by 23 feet 2½ inches wide; and the nave is 47 feet 6 inches long by 56 feet wide (including the side aisles), and is divided into five bays. The structure is thus of considerable dimensions, the total internal length being 196 feet 8 inches. Over the crossing rises the central tower, 90 feet in height.

The nave is the only part of the edifice which is roofed and occupied, being still used as the Parish Church. The choir and transepts are ruinous, and the walls have had to be supported with iron rances and ties, which greatly spoil the appearance of the interior of the choir. Otherwise the walls are pretty complete.

There is no record of there having been any destruction of the church by popular outbreak at the Reformation, to which fact we may attribute the comparatively perfect state of the structure at the present time.

The design of the interior of the choir (Figs. 890 and 891) comprises in each bay a main arcade, resting on simple clustered piers of rather diminutive height, having bases and caps, the mouldings and foliage of which clearly belong to the middle pointed or decorated period. There is no triforium; but the arches of the main arcade being large and lofty, comparatively little plain wall space is left between them and the string course, but the wall space below the clerestory windows is plain and heavy. The latter windows are pointed and filled with simple tracery. The choir was entirely vaulted, both in centre and side aisles, the central vault springing from vaulting shafts resting on the capitals of the main piers, but only stumps of the ribs remain at the springing of the vaults.

The windows of the side aisles, which are lofty (see Fig. 890), have been provided with tracery, having rather elaborate cusping. Many

parts of the building, such as the gargoyles, label terminals, caps, &c. are ornamented with grotesque carvings of various kinds of animals,

foliage, &c. (see Fig. 896). The tracery in the large pointed east window is modern.

On the north side of the choir a chapel has been built in the seventeenth century to contain the monuments of the Lauderdale family--a fine specimen of Renaissance work.[173]

The nave appears to have been originally of the same design as the choir; but about the beginning of this century it underwent considerable repairs and improvements, which greatly altered the character of the design, both externally and internally. As it was desired to introduce galleries in the side aisles, it was found necessary to raise the height of the main piers and arches. This was effected by taking off the caps, carrying up the piers for 6 feet 4 inches, and putting the caps on again,

the arches being also taken down and rebuilt at the new height, as shown in Fig. 892. The outer walls of the aisles were also carried up about 3 feet, the buttresses being heightened at the same time, and finished with new pinnacles of a totally different design from the old ones

(Fig. 893), some of which still remain on the buttresses of the choir (Fig. 894). The latter are in character with the pinnacles of the late pointed period in Scotland, while the new pinnacles of the nave are of a quite different description. At the time of these alterations the opportunity was taken to introduce a perforated and crenellated parapet, evidently copied from some English example.

These alterations were only carried out in 1811, but the white stone used being of a soft character, the work has now a weather-worn and ancient appearance, which renders the distinction between the old and new work somewhat difficult. The drawing of the church by Grose, and a view in Dr. Barclay’s paper in the _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, show the condition of the nave before the alterations of 1811 took place, proving that the buttresses, &c., then erected are new.

The west front (see Fig. 893) has, fortunately, not been so much interfered with. This elevation is specially characteristic of Scottish design. It contains the main doorway of the building (Fig. 895), in which the circular arch (so often employed, especially in the doorways of Scottish churches) is used; but it is enriched with the mouldings and ornaments of the late decorated style (see Fig. 896). The mouldings and foliage of the caps are specially striking and characteristic, while the large leaves introduced amongst the arch mouldings are somewhat late in design. The large arch is divided into two smaller openings by a central pillar, the cap of which is of good design. It contains a shield (see Fig. 896), surrounded with foliage, on which are carved the crown of thorns, with a heart in the centre, and two hands and feet and the nails, all emblems of the Passion.

Above the west doorway there is a very large pointed window (see Fig. 893), filled with mullions and tracery. The wide opening is divided into two sections by a large central mullion, branching into two arches at top; and these subdivisions each contain smaller tracery. It has been suggested that this west window has been heightened, the jambs being so low up to the caps and the pointed arch above so high; but there is no apparent alteration to justify this view. This form of window is not infrequent in late Scottish architecture, as at Paisley transept, Seton Chapel, &c.

The parapet above the window is evidently modern, and the gable has doubtless been heightened.

This part of the church has recently undergone a fresh restoration, but it consisted almost entirely of the removal of the galleries in the aisles and new seating in the centre. The pillars and arches of the interior have been allowed to remain at the high level to which they were heightened during the previous restoration; and it is fairly questionable whether they are not more effective as altered than when they stood at the original lower level.

The aisles having been originally vaulted, the old vault stood at the former low level. The ancient wall rib was, therefore, at that level, but was chipped off during the restoration. The stones which composed the wall rib can still be traced in the walls in both aisles (see Fig. 892). The string course over the main arches was originally at the same height as in the choir, but had to be chipped off. Traces of it can still be seen. The heightening of the piers had also the effect of cutting off the lower part of the vaulting shafts, thus depriving them of the base which they have in the choir. The old vaulting was necessarily removed when the aisles were heightened, and the church is now vaulted in plaster.

1, 2, and 3. Details of West Doorway. 4. Cap of Shaft, Nave Clerestory. 5. Jamb of West Window.]

The tracery of the windows of the nave has been renewed, and is entirely without cusping.

The transept has been to some extent destroyed, especially at the

north end, the north wall being demolished. The corbels and wall ribs (Fig. 897) show how each end was divided into two bays, and that the whole was vaulted. Owing to the absence of aisles, the transept walls, which have few windows, have a heavy aspect, especially externally, where the blank wall is not much relieved by the buttresses employed. This is seen in the view of the south transept (see Fig. 894).

The tower over the crossing (see Fig. 894) is one of the most effective parts of the structure. It is about 30 feet square, and rises above the church as a square-angled structure, without buttresses or breaks. It has a lofty triple window in each face, each opening being crowned with a semicircular arch, and divided in the centre by an ornamental transom.

On each side of the tower two niches, with carved canopies and corbels (but now without statues), occupy the plain space between the windows and the corners of the structure.

Originally the tower was crowned with a canopy or spire of open work, similar to those which still exist at St. Giles’, Edinburgh, and King’s College, Aberdeen, and also that which formerly crowned the tower of Linlithgow Church. A slight corbelled break in the centre of each face of the tower indicates that a rib sprang from the centre of each face, as well as the angles of the tower, thus producing the effect of an octagonal crown, as at St. Giles’. Large picturesque gargoyles still break the line of the cornice on top.

The whole church seems to have been designed and constructed at the same period--probably about the middle of the fifteenth century. The choir and nave were almost identical in their general features as originally executed; and the details of the piers, mouldings, bases, caps, &c., are very similar in both divisions. The style of the carved foliage is also similar in each, and bears the stamp of Scottish decorated work, but rather late in the style.

As an indication that the building was completed about the middle of the fifteenth century, there occur in the “Buke of Auld Register of Haidinton”[174] many entries of gifts of chalices and other furnishings made to the various altars in the church, extending from 1423 to 1463, showing that “more than ordinary interest had been taken in the ‘Paroche Kirk.’”

The altars were the following:--

1. Our Lady Altar. 2. Haly Blude Altar. 3. St. Blaise’s Altar. 4. St. John’s Altar. 5. The Three Kings of Cologne. 6. St. Salvator’s Altar. 7. St. Katrine’s Altar. 8. St. Mychael’s Altar. 9. St. Towbart’s Altar. 10. Crispin and Crispianus. 11. Trinity Altar.[175]

At the Reformation the possessions of the church and chapel dependent on it fell to Queen Mary’s brother, the Earl of Moray, who was Prior of St. Andrews. They were afterwards seized by the Earl of Morton, and, at his forfeiture, passed to the Crown. They were next presented by James VI. to his favourite, Esmé, Duke of Lennox, as a temporal lordship; and ultimately came into the hands of the Earl of Hopetoun.

It has already been mentioned that the building of the church does not appear to have suffered from any outbreak at the Reformation; but the fabric has been damaged to a considerable extent. The town was subjected to a siege in 1548, when it was held by the English after the battle of Pinkie, and was attacked and taken by the Scots and their French allies. It is not unlikely that the church may have suffered damage at that time, as it is stated that certain of the chapels did.

BALMERINO ABBEY,[176] FIFESHIRE.

The few fragments which survive of this once extensive structure stand on a height overlooking the Frith of Tay from its south or Fife shore, about three or four miles south-west from Dundee.

The Cistercian Abbey of Balmerino was founded in the year 1229 by Queen Ermengard, widow of William the Lion, and her son, Alexander II. The foundation charter by the latter is dated 3rd February 1230-1. The abbey was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and to the most holy King Edward.

Queen Ermengard obtained possession of the adjoining lands in the year 1225, and it is supposed that building operations were commenced immediately after the foundation, as on the 13th December 1229, the original colony of monks for Balmerino set out from Melrose under the guidance of Alan, the first abbot. The building must probably then have made some progress to be in a fit state for their occupation. Ermengard died in 1233 and was buried in the church, and, according to Spottiswoode, her place of sepulture was before the high altar. She was a liberal benefactress to the abbey, and Alexander, her son, took a continued interest in its affairs after her death, and was a frequent visitor at Balmerino. During the time of Ralph, the second abbot (1236-1251), the abbey received the first confirmation of its privileges and possessions from Pope Innocent IV. It is undated, but the Rev. Dr. Campbell, in his account of the abbey, assigns its date to between 1242 and 1246. About the last decade of the thirteenth century, Hugo of Nydie grants the use of his quarry of Nydie to the abbey, and also a toft, with the privilege of grazing on the common pasture of Nydie. Dr. Campbell conjectures that as the journey between the quarry and Balmerino was too long to be performed both ways on the same day, the toft would form the lodging for the men, and the pasturage for the draught animals. In this connection William of Burglyn grants “that old road through his land of Burthlyn, by which the monks were wont to go with their carts and other carriages to the quarry of Nidyn;” and further, “if it shall happen that the carts and waggons of the monks shall at any time halt at the ford of Burglyn on account of any hindrance in crossing, he grants them permission in such a case to unyoke and feed their beasts there, and, if necessary, to stay over the night.”[177]

Beyond the above facts, there is no information whatever preserved that has any bearing on the history of the erection of the abbey buildings. No contracts are referred to, nor in its records is the name of any particular abbot associated with the building of any part of the abbey. The next recorded event in connection with the structure is its destruction, or partial destruction, during Somerset’s invasion in 1547, when Admiral Thomas Wyndham, on the night of the 25th December, assailed the monastery, and in the words of his own report,[178] “he bornt the abbey with all thyngs that wer in it.” This damage was, doubtless, to a certain extent repaired; but a more serious encounter was approaching. In 1559 Balmerino suffered the usual fate of similar establishments. The Earl of Argyle and the Prior of St. Andrews, having destroyed the churches of St. Andrews, “convened a great company of countrymen and passed to the abbeys of Lindores and Balmerino, the Parish Kirks within Fife, and did the like.”[179] Bishop Leslie ascribes the demolition of the abbey to “certain most worthless men, of the common people.”

As usually happened in connection with all the other abbeys at this period, a nobleman or Court favourite was appointed commendator, who drew two-thirds of the revenue, the remainder being reserved for the reformed minister and the Crown. John Hay, descended from the family of Naughton (a large property in the neighbourhood), was appointed commendator in 1561. The office was resigned into the king’s hands in 1605, whereupon the abbacy was converted into a temporal lordship, in favour of Sir James Elphinstone, with the title of Lord Balmerino.

The abbey buildings (Fig. 898) are in a very ruinous state, only the chapter house with the erections adjoining it being at all well preserved. The north wall of the nave with the west wall of the north transept remain throughout their whole length for about 5 feet above the ground. In the month of March 1896, the Rev. Dr. Campbell was allowed by the proprietor to make some excavations, and as the result of a few days’ work sufficient remains were disclosed to enable a fairly accurate plan of the church to be made. And if the work of excavation were carried further, the rubbish removed, and most of the trees cut down which at present crowd the site, there is no doubt but that a much more complete plan of the church and abbey would be disclosed.

The church is situated, as at the mother church of Melrose, on the south side of the cloister. It consisted of a nave with a south aisle (there being no north aisle), transepts with the usual eastern aisle, and a short presbytery without aisles. The internal dimensions of the church were as follows:--Total length from east to west about 206 feet, width of nave about 45 feet, length of transepts and crossing about 98 feet, width of transept (including the east aisle) about 46 feet, and width of presbytery about 25 feet.

Three of the vaulting shafts of the nave exist against the north wall (their section is shown in Fig. 899); but they are so situated as to give an unequal division to the bays. Until the ivy is stripped from the walls, and the accumulated debris of centuries is removed from the floor, nothing more definite can be ascertained regarding them; but assuming that two of the responds are in their proper places at a distance of 20 feet apart--of which there seems to be no doubt--this would give a nave of six bays. In the line of the nave piers various foundations have been laid bare, as shown on Plan. Beginning at the west end a foundation projects inwards 5 feet; next it there is a cross wall about 10 feet in length; then further to the east, two foundations as if for piers, and next them the great south-east pier of the crossing, one side of which is quite entire and is shown in Fig. 899. It measures along the diagonal face 6 feet 10 inches by 7 feet 7 inches across. There were three such piers, the fourth (see Fig. 899) being made up with the responds at the junction of the nave and transept walls at the north-west corner of the crossing. Each transept probably contained two bays. The respond against the north transept wall still exists.

The west doorway (Fig. 900) was evidently one of considerable importance. It was a double doorway, 8 feet 8 inches wide, the central pillar being about 14 inches square; only the merest fragment of the base of the doorway has been unearthed. The ingoing probably extended with a wide splay outwards, decorated with shafts, the base of one of these being in situ. The south-west corner of the church is one of the best preserved fragments. It consists of a deeply splayed base of beautiful masonry, with an angle buttress, measuring 7 feet on each face, with a projection of nearly 5 feet. This buttress probably contained a wheel stair for access to the roof. The north-west corner has not been cleared of rubbish. At the south-east corners of the transept and of the presbytery there are foundations (as shown on Plan), of which at present nothing definite can be made. The details of the church indicate a building in the first pointed style of the thirteenth century.

Entering from the south transept is the sacristy, a chamber 32 feet 4 inches long by 23 feet wide, covered with a round barrel vault. All the buildings to the north of the church appear to have been to a greater or less extent altered and adapted by the commendators, in order to form a mansion house, so that they do not now quite represent their original condition.

To the north of the sacristy is the chapter house, with a doorway between them, which is not original. This has been a very fine apartment, measuring about 56 feet long by about 27 feet 3 inches wide. It is divided into two compartments, the eastern compartment being the chapter house proper, and the western the vestibule (see Fig. 901). The eastern half is probably of a slightly later date than the western half. It was vaulted, like the western half, with groined vaulting, but at a much higher level and with arches of a much greater span, having had one central pillar instead of the two in the older part. The central pillar is entirely gone; and of the high vaulting only the wall ribs, with the corbels from which the ribs sprang, remain (see Fig. 902). From the indications of the ribs which remain, the vaulting has been restored in dotted lines. It is quite obvious from Fig. 902 that this vaulting was removed to admit of an upper room at the lower level of the western vault.

The western division or vestibule (Fig. 903) has two octagonal centre pillars, with no wall responds in a line with them, the vaulting at the wall springing from rounded corbels; eastwards, there are two larger octagonal pillars with responds. The height of the pillars is about 7 feet 10 inches, and to the apex of the vaulting the height is about 14 feet 9 inches.

The western wall of the chapter house is gone, and only some portions of a later wall remain. Owing to this the western compartments of the

vaulting have fallen, all except the part shown by strong lines at the south side of this compartment, which merely holds together by the tenacity of the mortar. Unless means are shortly taken to support this fragment, it will soon give way and come to the ground. There was a continuous seat round the entire chapter house. The recesses at the east end on the north side are modern (Fig. 904).

The east wall of the chapter house (Fig. 905) still remains; it contains two windows, having square heads, built with radiating stones, and probably had mullions with tracery. The southmost of these windows was, in the later occupation, converted into a doorway, with fan lights over (see Fig. 905).

During this period the chapter house formed a part of the residence, the eastern part being a hall, with some kind of screen or division between the pillars and the responds, and having a door through the northern archway, of which door the ends of the stone lintel still remain on each side. A large fireplace was constructed at the centre arch, and the chimney flue still remains, as shown on the Plan of the vaulting (see Fig. 901), with the ribs crossing the flue. About this time the wheel staircase, seen projecting into the cloister, was probably built. The chapter house finishes on the top with a row of corbels similar to what is seen on the pele towers; but the whole is so covered with ivy and abundant vegetation on the roof that further elucidation of this part of the building is impossible.

The details of the chapter house, as seen in the vaulting and the carved work of the caps of the piers and corbels (Fig. 906), belong, probably, to the first half of the fifteenth century. Adjoining the chapter house is a vaulted apartment about 28 feet 9 inches long by 11 feet 6 inches wide, and provided with a seat on either side. It is entered from the east by a pointed doorway, and is unlighted by any windows. It was probably the slype. To the north of this is the last building of the eastern range, which is believed to be the penitentiary. It contains three cells; the eastmost one, which enters from a hatchway in the vaulted roof, measures about 8 feet by 6 feet, and is lofty. It was lighted with a small window, and probably contained a garde-robe. The adjoining cell shown on the Ground Plan is divided into two--a lower and an upper cell, the latter entering from a hatchway in the roof, and the former being some steps down from the ground level. The lower cell is provided with a stone seat on each side, and so, perhaps, are the others; but they are so encumbered with rubbish that their details cannot be made out.

Of the other buildings surrounding the cloister nothing remains except the indications of the inner wall of the west wing, shown by dotted lines on Plan, which gives a breadth to the garth, from east to west, of about 104 feet.

It is quite possible that the present farmhouse is on the site, if it did not form a part, of the north-west corner of the cloister. To the north of this house there still remains a portion of the old granary, now part of the modern farm-steading. It contains two doorways, one with a splayed and pointed arch, and the other much wider, having a rounded top. The west gable, as seen above a modern roof, is constructed as a dovecot with nests, similar to what is found at Cambuskenneth. On the skew putt at the north side of the gable there is a coat of arms (Fig. 907), two bars embattled. There is no known coat quite similar to this. A richly moulded and embattled finial terminates this gable, but it is broken and mutilated. Another coat of arms, built into the modern walls of the farm-steading, and shown by Fig. 908, is also unknown, as likewise are the initials.

To the east of the chapter house, at a distance of about 90 feet, are the ruins of what is called on the Plan the abbot’s house. What remains consists of a vaulted cellar, measuring on the inside about 18 feet 2 inches by 15 feet 7 inches, and separated by a thick wall from a similar apartment on the north, which only in part survives. How far this structure extended it is impossible to say. It is constructed of good masonry, the doorway between the apartments being finely wrought; and it evidently was an important building.

Adjoining this house, two sculptured figures--one of an ecclesiastic and the other in mail armour (Figs. 909 and 910)[180]--are stuck into the ground. The first has probably been a recumbent figure on a tomb, and the other is an isolated upright figure, the back being as carefully wrought as the front.

A laudable effort has been made to preserve the ruins by enclosing them with a lofty fence; but much might yet be done by way of preservation and disclosure by excavation.

CHAPEL, ROTHESAY CASTLE, BUTESHIRE.

In the description of Rothesay Castle[181] the plan of the ground floor of the chapel is shown standing within the courtyard, and at right angles to the east wall of enceinte. The chapel itself, however, was on the upper floor of this building, which is two stories in height. The chapel (Fig. 911)

is 30 feet in length by 20 feet in width internally. The west wall is now much broken down, so that in the view from the north-west (Fig. 912) there is seen the exterior of the north side and the interior of the south side. The chapel has been lighted by two windows in the north and two windows in the south wall, all towards the east end. About the middle of the structure there is a small window in each of the north and south walls, and further westwards the entrance doorway occurs in the south wall. The doorway is still pretty complete, and has a round arch and splayed jambs. Being at the height of one story from the ground, it must have been approached by an outside staircase, probably somewhat in the manner shown by dotted lines on Plan.

There is no window in the east wall, as a window in that position would have been blocked by the staircase leading to the battlements on the outer wall of the fortress. The eastern part of the church, however, is amply lighted by the two large windows on each side. These windows (Fig. 913) are pointed, and each had a central mullion and simple branching tracery. The mouldings consist of simple splays. There is a piscina in the south wall of the chancel to the east of the eastern window.