Chapter XIII: Part 13

The small windows in the side walls are pointed, and may have lit altars at the rood screen. The western portion of the chapel had probably a window in the west wall.

The whole structure is simple, but massive. There are few features by which the date may be fixed, but it seems most probable that it was erected towards the end of the fourteenth century, when the castle was enlarged and frequently occupied by Kings Robert II. and III.

ST. BRIDGET’S OR ST. BRIDE’S CHURCH, DOUGLAS, LANARKSHIRE.

The town of Douglas, in the parish of the same name, stands in the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, about 3½ miles south from Douglas Station, on the Lesmahagow branch of the Caledonian Railway. The town and castle are closely connected with the great Douglas family, several members of which are buried in the church, and have sumptuous monuments erected therein to their memory.

The church of Douglas existed in the twelfth century, but the present structure is of considerably later date. Douglas Church belonged to Kelso Abbey. In the end of the fourteenth century it was made a prebend of Glasgow Cathedral. The ancient church here, in 1307, played an important part in one of the bold feats of the Good Sir James Douglas in the time of Bruce. The English garrison of Douglas Castle, being assembled in the church, were attacked by Sir James, and were all killed.

The church, of which some fragments are still preserved, was doubtless destroyed during the troublous times of the War of Independence. The present structure, of which little but the choir remains, appears to have been built about the end of the fourteenth century. Its architecture is very simple, all the rybats and mullions having plain splays instead of mouldings.

The choir (Fig. 914) measures, internally, 40 feet in length by 17 feet 4 inches in width, and has no aisles. There has at one time been a nave, the large arch to which, though built up, is visible in the wall between the nave and choir.

The central part of the nave has entirely disappeared, and its space now forms part of the churchyard. There remains, however, what has apparently been the south aisle of the nave. It has been connected with the central aisle by two arches, the central pillar and west respond of which still survive, though built up with modern masonry. This aisle is about 38 feet in length by 20 feet in width over the walls. In the north-east angle of the aisle a square turret, about 10 feet over the walls, has been erected.

The choir contains a large three-light window in the east end (Fig. 915), having two mullions, which form three smaller pointed arches within the large arch-head. In the south side there are three similar windows, but smaller, the central one having the sill kept very high, and being thus of a stunted appearance.

The monument in the south side, which contains the effigies of James, seventh Earl of Douglas, and his wife, has required a break to be formed in the wall on the exterior, so as to allow breadth for the two figures under the canopy.

The entrance to the choir is by a modernised doorway in the north wall, close to the west end. On entering one is struck by the fine appearance of the large monuments (Fig. 916), especially those on the left or north side. These monuments, as well as the whole building, have evidently been considerably repaired within recent years. Until about fifteen years ago the church was in a miserable condition, the windows being built up, so that the monuments could only be seen by lamp light. The building stood open, and the school children (the schoolhouse being

near) used it as a place to play in. It is, therefore, no wonder that the fine monuments and effigies suffered damage. The whole have been

repaired by Lord Home, and are now in excellent condition, and a new roof has been placed on the building.

The oldest monument is, doubtless, that in the north wall (Fig. 917), near the doorway. It is traditionally ascribed to the Good Sir James, the staunch adherent and companion in arms of Bruce. He died in Spain, in 1331, when on his way to the Holy Land with the heart of King Robert. The tomb contains a broken effigy, having a shield on the left side, and with hands drawing his sword, but the right arm is broken off. The legs have been crossed, but the upper limb is broken off by the knee. The head rests on a cushion and the feet against a mutilated animal, probably a lion. This monument is illustrated by Blore in his _Monumental Remains_, and the effigy is pronounced by him to be of a date anterior to the time of Sir James. The canopy is of a much later period, probably fifteenth century.[182] It comprises a large pointed arch with fine detached and freely cut cusping, surmounted by a crocketed label moulding of ogee form, terminating in a large finial, which reaches to the top of the wall of the church. A buttress on each side, set diagonally, encloses the monument. Each buttress has a tall crocketed pinnacle and foliaged finial. The shield in the spandril of the canopy contains the heart, an addition to the Douglas Arms, made in consequence of Sir James’s mission to the Holy Land with Bruce’s heart.

To the east of the above monument in the north wall is that of Archibald, fifth Earl of Douglas (Fig. 918), who died in 1438. He was the son of Archibald, fourth Earl, who distinguished himself in the service of Charles VII. of France, and received therefor the Duchy of Touraine, in 1423. This Earl was killed, along with most of his Scottish followers, at the battle of Verneuil, 1424. Archibald, the fifth Earl, after serving for some time in France, returned home and died of fever in 1438.

The effigy which lies within the monument is habited in robes of state, and wears a ducal coronet. In the left hand was probably a baton of office, and the right hand holds together the cord which fastens the mantle. The feet rest on a lion couchant. Round the waist is a broad ornamental belt. Round the margin of the slab was formerly an inscription, now nearly obliterated, which Godscroft gives as follows:--

HIC · JACET · ARCHIBALDUS · DE · DOUGLAS · DUX · TOURENIAE · COMES DE · DOUGLAS · ET · LONGUEVILLE · DOMINUS · GALLOVIDIAE · WIGTONIAE · ET ANNANDIAE · LOCUM · TENENS · REGIS · SCOTIE · OBIIT · XXVIº · DIE · MENSIS IUNII · ANNO · DOMINI · MILLESIMO · QUARINGENTESIMO · TRICESIMO · OCTAVO.[183]

The effigy rests on a tomb, the front of which is divided into six panels, each containing a small figure, probably representing the family of the deceased. The figures stand on small pedestals, and are surmounted with ornamental canopies. Over the tomb is a somewhat flat arch of ogee form,

with enriched mouldings, having a crocketed hood terminating in an enriched finial. At either side are two small buttresses, each containing

a small statue and covered with a crocketed pinnacle. A parapet, pierced with quatrefoils, and which has been considerably renewed, runs along the top. On the wall at the back of the arched recess a figure, kneeling at an altar, is carved. A small shield over the altar bears the Douglas arms, and the scroll carried an inscription, now obliterated.

In Blore’s time this monument was sadly destroyed, and the small figures were scattered over the floor, but they have now been replaced and the monument restored.

The base of the monument bears an ornament of sculptured foliage, very closely resembling that on the two eastern pillars of St. Giles’, Edinburgh, the work on both being probably of about the same period, about the middle of the fifteenth century.

In the south wall of the choir there is a third monument (Fig. 919), which contains recumbent figures of James, seventh Earl of Douglas, and Beatrice de Sinclair, his wife (Fig. 920). The former is in armour, but the statue is much broken. The latter wears a long robe. The heads rest on cushions, and the hands are clasped in the attitude of prayer. In the face of the tomb are ten niches containing upright figures of the sons and daughters of the Earl and Countess, and one niche containing an angel, who supports a shield blazoned with the Douglas and Sinclair arms. Above the figures was the following inscription:--“Hic jacet magnus et potens princeps Dominus Jacobus de Douglas Dux Toureniae et Comes de Douglas Dominus Annandiae Gallovidiae Liddaliae Jedburg Forestiae et Dominus de Balveniae Magnus Wardanus Regni Scotiae versus Angliam, &c., qui obiit 24 die mensis Martii anno domini 1443.”[184]

This Earl was the brother of the forementioned Archibald, sixth Earl, to whom he succeeded after the murder, in Edinburgh Castle, of Archibald’s two sons. He was called “Le Gros” on account of his corpulence, and seems to have been a “prudent and peaceable man.”

The inscription for his lady was as follows:--“Hic jacit Domina Beatrix de Sinclair filia domini Henrici Comitis Arcadum Domini de Sinclair, &c. Comitessa de Douglas et Aveniae Domina Gallovidiae.”

On the east side of these inscriptions was a stone, on which were recorded the names and titles of the sons and daughters.

“This inscription enables us to fix the date of the erection of the monument--viz., between 1448, when Archibald was made Earl of Moray, and 1451, when James, the eldest son, was killed.”[185]

As already mentioned, the outer wall has been extended so as to give width for the tomb. The arch of the canopy is flat and low, so that the space is dark at the back. The label is enriched with crockets, which run up into a foliaged finial of late character (Fig. 921). Over this a shield, bearing the Douglas Arms, surmounted by a helmet with a peacock for crest, and covered with a small enriched string course, is inserted in the wall. In a niche in the wall on either side of the shield there have been “wild men” as supporters, but one of these has been removed.

This monument is evidently of a later date than those on the north side, and is inferior in design and execution, as might be expected from its date.

To the west of the above monument, and in the extreme south-west angle of the church, there lies an effigy (Fig. 922) of beautiful workmanship and of an early date. It is apparently a female figure, the arms and head of which are damaged. The feet rest upon a bunch of foliage of first pointed design, greatly worn away. Such a footing for the effigy of a monument is rare in Scotland.

In the east wall two circular headed recesses occur under the large window, which may have been credence niches.

In the south wall near the east end there is a double piscina in a recess, having a trefoiled head. The basins are round plain sinkings.

The nave appears to have been a structure of the same date as the choir. The pillar between it and the south aisle seems to be of the fifteenth century. At the east end of the south aisle there is a piscina in the south wall, set in a trefoil headed recess, similar to that in the choir.

The turret in the north-east angle of the nave aisle is carried to a considerable height. It is octagonal in the upper stories; and the top story, which forms the belfry, is pierced with eight small pointed windows (see Fig. 915), the mouldings round which form square frames above the arch-heads. The turret is finished with an octagonal spire of stone, and at the base of each angle of the spire there is a small stone pinnacle, now much worn away.

There still survive some fragments of carved work, which bear evidence of the former existence of an ancient church in Douglas. These fragments are portions of Norman capitals, which are piled up, as shown in the sketch, (Fig. 923), in the recess of the south aisle adjoining the turret. One cap shows a face with a fierce moustache, and others are good specimens of characteristic Norman design.

ST. BRIDE’S COLLEGIATE CHURCH, BOTHWELL, LANARKSHIRE.

This very interesting church was founded by Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas, in 1398. He was proprietor of the great Castle of Bothwell in the vicinity, and he dedicated the church to St. Bride, his patron saint. The establishment was to consist of a provost and eight

prebendaries. In order to provide suitable accommodation, he added a choir to the existing parish church, and granted to the establishment sufficient resources. In this church the unfortunate Duke of Rothesay was married to the Earl’s daughter Marjory, in the year 1400. The old College Church is now attached to a new and larger modern parish church which adjoins it on the west, but the College Church is not now used for service. The structure is a simple oblong chamber (Fig. 924), 55 feet in length by 22 feet in width internally, with a sacristy on the north side 14 feet long by 10 feet wide. The church, externally divided by buttresses, has four bays (Fig. 925), with a series of pointed windows in the south wall and three windows in the north wall. The east end is square, and has one large pointed window with drop arch. The entrance doorway (Fig. 926) is in the south wall in the second bay from the west end, under a window. The arch of the doorway is remarkable from being elliptic in form. The mouldings of the arch are bold, but they are destroyed on the jambs. A label mitring into a string course at top runs round the arch. The windows are deeply splayed both inside and out, but the tracery with which they were doubtless filled is now wanting. The arch of the east window springs

from a point considerably below the junction with the jambs, which gives it a broken appearance. An inner moulding, finished with well wrought bases, runs round the exterior of the windows. The roof of this church, like that of so many erected at a somewhat later period, is covered with overlapping stone slabs, which rest on a pointed barrel vault (Fig. 927), for the purpose of supporting it. This is the earliest example we have met with of this form of vault, which became very common in the churches of the following period. That at Lincluden, already referred to, is similar, but had a groined vault beneath it. The vault is ornamented with moulded ribs at intervals, springing from small moulded corbels. There is also a ridge rib, and bosses occur at the junction with the curved side ribs. The buttresses are simple in outline, and have a deep series of set offs at top, and those next the doorway have small cusped niches in the face of each. The stone work of the roof is very carefully executed, every stone being curved so as to throw the water away from the joints. The cornice is rather more prominent than usual.

The entrance to the sacristy is by an unusually handsome doorway (Fig. 928), having two orders of shafts and mouldings. The carving of the caps has been very fine, but is sadly damaged. In the sacristy there are a piscina and a locker, and in the south wall of the choir the remains of a triple beautifully carved sedilia (Fig. 929) and a piscina. The sacristy is roofed with overlapping stone flags, supported on a vault.

Some elaborate monuments have been erected in the church (see Fig. 927) in memory of the two Archibald Douglases, Earls of Forfar, one of whom was mortally wounded at Sheriffmuir (1715).

Some ancient carved stones are also preserved at the east end, one of them being a tombstone containing a shield, with the original three stars of the Douglas arms (Fig. 930).

ST. DUTHUS’ CHURCH, TAIN, ROSS-SHIRE.

The ancient town of Tain claims to have received its first privileges from Malcolm Canmore in the eleventh century. It was also the site of an early church, and St. Duthus, the patron saint of the town, is reputed to have been the Bishop of Ross in the eleventh century. The existing town stands at a point near the entrance to Dornoch Frith, on an ancient sea margin, which rises above a great expanse of sandy links stretching eastwards towards the sea. It possesses no less than three ancient churches, all said to have been dedicated to St. Duthus. This saint probably lived about the year 1000, and his remains are said to have been translated to his native town of Tain in 1253.[186] The most ancient church (Fig. 931) stands on a knoll which rises above the general level of the links. It is now surrounded by a well kept modern cemetery, and is at some distance from the town, but is believed to have stood in the midst of the houses of the older Tain, which occupied the low ground near the sea. This ancient fane is a simple parallelogram, 46 feet long by 16 feet 6 inches wide internally. Three of its walls (Fig. 932), which are all built with the granite boulders of the district, and the east and west gables are still almost entire, but the south wall is reduced to a state of ruin. The north, east, and west walls, which are much exposed to the storms from the sea, are without any openings, except a small pointed window in the west gable. The doorway and windows seem to have been in the south wall, which may account for its ruinous condition. The one small window remaining in that wall, and the pointed window in the west gable, indicate a date not earlier than the thirteenth century. Besides these there are no features to give a clue to the date of the structure; but the period they point to agrees with the time when the body of St. Duthus is believed to have been brought here for burial.

The shrine of St. Duthus was regarded as specially sacred, and possessed the right of sanctuary. To it the wife and daughter of King Robert I. betook themselves when compelled to flee from Kildrummy Castle, in Aberdeenshire. But the sacred nature of the sanctuary did not avail the royal fugitives, and they were delivered up to Edward by the Earl of Ross.

It is believed that this church was destroyed by fire in 1429; M‘Neill of Creich, having pursued his enemies thither, took that means of evading the right of sanctuary. He did not seize his enemies within the sacred ground, but set fire to the church in which they had taken refuge.

The second church in point of antiquity is a small quadrangular structure (Fig. 933) which stands near the principal church, and to the south-east of it, on the higher ground adjacent to the modern town. It is 32 feet long by 13 feet wide within the walls, which are now reduced to about 6 to 7 feet in height all round. The north wall appears to have been rebuilt, for Mr. Neale describes it in his _Ecclesiological Notes_[187] as being ruinous, but having one lancet. The east end contains a triplet enclosed in one arch, and the south side has a door and a two-light window under one arch. These features point to the date of this chapel as being early, but it is scarcely possible to fix a definite time. It is, however, apparently earlier than 1429, the date of the burning of St. Duthus’ Church on the links, and it is thought that this may have been the original parish church. The adjoining larger church is recorded as having been a rebuilding of a previous church, and it seems most probable that the building now under consideration was the earlier church.

As regards the third church (see Fig. 933), which was undoubtedly dedicated to St. Duthus, chronicles declare it to have been built by William, Earl of Ross, who died in 1371. In 1487 James III. procured from the Bishop of Ross and the Pope sanction for converting it into a collegiate establishment for a provost, five canons, two deacons, a sacrist, with an assistant clerk, and three singing boys. This institution was liberally endowed out of the crown lands, and, after the death of James III., an annual sum was paid out of the royal treasury.[188]

In the _Treasurer’s Accounts_ for 1504 there are entries which seem to point to all three churches as being then still in existence. These entries show that on 23rd October of that year the king made an offering of 14s. “in Sanct Duchois Chapell quhair he was borne” (no doubt meaning the place where the saint was born, or the old church on the links); also, “in Sanct Duchois Chapell in the Kirk-yard of Tayne” (referring, probably, to the second, or original, parish church); and also, “in Sanct Duchoils Kirk” (which may be the College Kirk as distinguished from the Parish Church).

The Collegiate Church stands in a pleasant situation overlooking the sea, on the raised beach to the north of the town, and is surrounded by a burying-ground.

St. Duthus’ was an ancient and favourite place of pilgrimage, and the old church having been consumed, this new one would, after its erection, be doubtless the celebrated shrine to which James IV. and V. made their pilgrimages.

The former king is believed to have gone there every season for at least twenty years, as part of the penance he performed in connection with his father’s death. He visited St. Duthus’ in 1513, before his last fatal expedition, which closed with the Battle of Flodden. In 1527 James V. made the pilgrimage of St. Duthus’ barefoot, a memento of which event is preserved in the name of the “King’s Causeway,” by which a road near the town is known.

The Collegiate Church (Fig. 933) is 70 feet long by 22 feet 6 inches wide internally. It contains four bays, distinguished externally by buttresses of good form (Fig. 934). Each bay contains one window, those of the south or sheltered side being large and filled with tracery; while those in the north wall, which is exposed to the sea, are small plain lancets, with hood moulding. The windows in the east and west walls are large and filled with tracery, having five and four lights respectively, divided by mullions. The tracery of the east window, which has been renewed, is of geometric form, while that of the west window consists of simple intersecting mullions. The tracery of the south side windows is of similar design. The west gable contains two niches, one on each side of the arch of the window. The statue of a bishop (possibly St. Duthus) still exists in the north niche. There is a doorway in the westmost bay on each side. They are similar and of good design. A small benitier projects from the wall on the outside close to the north door. The south door has had a large porch, the mark of the water table being still visible.

The interior contains a triple sedilia and a piscina in the south wall of good pointed and trefoiled pattern, and there is a small ambry in the north wall.

In Neal’s _Ecclesiological Notes_ the church is termed an example of middle pointed architecture, although its date, as generally happens in the North, is considerably later than any work of that period in England.

From the Reformation till 1815 this edifice was used as the parish church. A new church being then erected, the old one was abandoned and suffered neglect. When Mr. Neal visited it in 1848, he found it in the following condition[189]:--“It has been fitted up as a place of Presbyterian worship; galleries, gaudily painted, run round it; pews of every size and shape and colour pollute it; but it is now deserted. The smell of decaying wood, the exhalations from the vaults, the dampness, the rottenness, the horrible filth, the green mould, the decaying baize, the deserted appearance of the whole render this a shocking place.”

This disgraceful condition of the church attracted public attention,

and, by the exertions of the late Provost M‘Leod and other gentlemen in the district, its cleansing and restoration were undertaken and completed in 1877, and the building is now set apart for monumental and memorial purposes. The old stonework has been preserved and slightly restored where necessary, and the roof has been renewed. The windows are filled with memorial stained glass, and the whole is kept in excellent order.

A pulpit is said to have been presented to Tain by the Regent Murray, as a mark of his appreciation of the zeal of the town in the cause of the Reformation. Mr. Taylor informs us[190] that this valuable relic was “suffered to be broken, and its ornamentation carried away piecemeal by wanton hands;” but it has now been restored, so far as the fragments again brought together have enabled this to be done, and forms an ornamental feature in the restored church.

FEARN ABBEY, ROSS-SHIRE.

This abbey is one of the monastic establishments founded in the far North during the reign of Alexander II. It was originally settled, in 1221, by Farquhard, Earl of Ross, at Edderton, on the Dornoch Frith, and its first abbot was brought from the priory of Whithorn, in Wigtonshire. The occupants were therefore of the Premonstratensian Order of Canons Regular, being the order of the parent house.

The situation originally chosen was found to be too near the turbulent tribes further north, and, in 1238, leave was granted to Malcolm of Uig, the second abbot, to transfer the abbey to a new and more peaceful site. The new locality is about ten miles south-east from the first site, and had the advantage of being in more fertile soil. Being well within the domains of the Earl of Ross, the abbey received his protection, and was also richly endowed by the successive earls.

The connection with Whithorn was kept up, and many of the abbots came from the parent house. In 1321, Mark, a canon of Whithorn, and son of Sir Mark Ros, was presented to the abbacy by the Prior of Whithorn, and not chosen by the monks. He is said to have rebuilt the abbey about 1338, and the rebuilding was completed under the rule of Abbot Donald, in 1372.

Abbot Finlay M‘Faed was appointed in 1442, and his rule lasted for forty-four years. He built the cloister, and procured an organ, tabernacles, chalices, vestments, and other ornaments from Flanders, with which he enriched the abbey. He died in 1485, and was interred in St. Michael’s aisle at Fearn, in which his monument was erected, and where it still survives.

In the beginning of the sixteenth century the commendatorship of the abbey was held by a mere boy, afterwards destined to become famous in Scottish history--Patrick Hamilton, the first martyr for Reformation principles in this country. He was a natural son of the Earl of Arran, a M.A. of Paris in 1520, and also of St. Andrews. When twenty-six years of age he was burned as a heretic at the gate of St. Salvator’s College, in St. Andrews, in 1528.

The buildings of Fearn Abbey having fallen into disrepair, Robert Cairncross, Bishop of Ross (1539-45) was appointed abbot of Fearn, being recommended by the king to the Pope, on the understanding that the bishop, who was wealthy, would be able to restore the abbey. Bishop Cairncross also held several other appointments, being Provost of Corstorphine, Abbot of Holyrood, and chaplain to James V. He resigned the abbacy in 1545, and died soon after. Nicholas Ross, provost of the Collegiate Church of Tain, held the abbacy, possibly as a secular charge, seeing that, in 1560, he sat in Parliament, and voted for the abolition of the Roman Catholic religion.

The last commendator was Walter Ross of Morangy; but he was only titular, for in 1597 the lands of the abbey were erected into the temporal Barony of Geanies, and granted by James V. to his favourite, Sir Patrick Murray.

Some of the church lands were, as usual, feued off to relatives of the abbots. Abbot Walter Ross procured a grant in his own favour of Morangy and the mills thereof, which remained with his family for several generations.

The church continued to be used as the parish place of worship, and in 1742, during divine service, the vaulted roof fell, when about fifty people were killed.[191]

Of this extensive and richly-furnished abbey there now only remain a part of the church and the ruins of some structures attached to it.

The church is a simple oblong chamber (Fig. 935), 96 feet long by 26 feet wide internally. Part of it is still used as the parish church, but the eastern end is partitioned off and set apart as the burial-vault of the family of Ross of Balnagown. After the fall of the roof last century, the south wall of the church was to a great extent rebuilt, a new roof put on, and the interior plastered. The eastern portion, with the exception of the building up of some of the windows and the reconstruction of the gable, has been left intact. The chapels, or “aisles,” attached to the church have been erected against the original walls, as is evident from the remains of windows still visible, which are built up.

The features of the church are extremely simple (Fig. 936). The windows are all tall lancets. In the east gable there are four of these all of equal height, and the walls have been pierced with similar lights, in pairs, between all the buttresses round the walls. Some of these remain in the north wall (see Fig. 936), and in the south wall (which has been remodelled and partly rebuilt, with large windows inserted) some portions of the old lancets can yet be traced.

There is nothing very distinctive of any particular period in the architecture, but the features correspond fairly well with the date assigned to the rebuilding of the abbey by the abbots Mark and Donald during the fourteenth century. The lanceolate form of the windows seems at first sight to indicate an earlier period, but, on careful inspection, it will be observed that there is no hood moulding, a feature almost universally used in first pointed work. Besides, the lancet form of window was employed in the north even as late as the sixteenth century, as in the west front of Beauly Priory, built by Bishop Reid about 1550. An ambry, piscina, and sedilia are still preserved in the south wall of the chancel.

The most important of the additions made to the main building is the

south wing or chapel, which was dedicated to St. Michael. This chapel is said to have been erected by Abbot Finlay M‘Fead, who died in 1485. It is 32 feet long by 23 feet wide, and has been connected to the church by an archway 14 feet in width. The walls of the aisle are now reduced to about 5 feet in height, and contain a doorway in the west side and an ambry on the east side. In the south wall is the monument to Abbot Finlay M‘Fead (Fig. 937). The canopy is segmental, and the mouldings are bold, but the enrichments are much decayed. On the shield over the centre of the arch the arms of the abbot are still legible--a stag behind a tree, with three stars in chief, and a crozier above. The inscription, which is much decayed, is said to be, “Hic jacet Finlaius M‘Fead abbas de Fern qui obiit anno MCCCCLXXXV.” It will be remembered that, through the liberality of this abbot, the monastery was much enriched. His effigy still rests, though much mutilated, in its original place.

A small monumental chapel has been erected against the south-east angle of the church and blocks two of the windows. It is probably, from its details, of the sixteenth century. There is a pointed doorway in the east side (see Fig. 936), and a pointed window in each of the east and west walls. The south wall has contained a monument, but the outer part of the wall has been broken out, and none of the features of the monument are preserved.

Another chapel, doubtless also monumental, has been built against the north wall (see Fig. 936), where there have been two windows of the church. The walls of the above chapels seem to be built out from two of the buttresses of the church. The buttress forming part of the east wall of the north chapel is still quite distinct. This structure is evidently of a very late date. The windows have had mullions, which simply intersect one another in the arched head, without any trace of foliation. The chief peculiarity of this chapel lies in its roof. This has been constructed with six ribs, composed of portions of wall carried on plain pointed arches, on which were laid the overlapping stone flags, of which the roof was formed. Two of the arches and a small part of the stone roof still survive (see Fig. 936).

All traces of the cloister and domestic buildings of the monastery have been completely swept away.

INVERKEITHING CHURCH, FIFESHIRE.

This ancient town, situated a short way north of Queensferry, contained many interesting structures, but they have now been almost entirely removed. The fine Town Cross, however, still survives.

The old parish church was burned down in 1825, and afterwards rebuilt, the only ancient part preserved being the western tower (Fig. 938). This tower has been partly incorporated with the new church, to which it forms an entrance porch, and has a new doorway opened in its west wall. It measures about 22 feet square on Plan, and has buttresses at the angles reaching as high as the top story (Fig. 939). These have the angles chamfered, and are finished with plain splays on top. An octagonal turret at the south-east angle, with conical stone roof, contains the stair to the upper story. The tower is finished with a plain parapet on top, supported on simple bold corbels. The structure above the tower is modern. Although not very high, the tower contains four stories, the upper one being the belfry. It has large windows, with one mullion and a transom, and very peculiar tracery in the arched head, consisting of three perforated circles. The bell bears the date of 1641.

In the interior of the church is preserved, and is still used, a very fine font (Fig. 940), which was found lying in pieces in the ground under the tower and in the churchyard, but the pieces have now been put together again. The bowl is hexagonal in outline, 3 feet 2 inches across, the orifice being 2 feet in diameter. Each face is ornamented with a large shield, supported by an angel, and on each angle is a large roll, supported on a head and embattled on top. The lower part consists of five short filleted shafts, with angular projections between them. The shafts rest on bold projecting bases, standing on an octagonal plinth, and have a series of enriched caps (sadly damaged) running round the font, which support the mouldings under the basin.

The arms on the six shields on the faces of the font are as follow (the arms being, probably, those of the families named, but there is nothing to show their connection with the font):--

1. Quarterly 1st and 4th, three bay leaves, for Foulis of Colinton;
2nd and 3rd, saltier and chief, wavy (Fig. 941). Bruce of
Balcaskie.

2. A fesse chequé between three crescents (see Fig. 940). Stewart.

3. Fesse between three crescents (see Fig. 941). Melville of
Glenbervie.

4. Per pale, dexter side, a lion rampant within a double tressure
(see Fig. 940). Lyon of Glamis. On the sinister side, bars wavy,
for Drummond.

5. Lion rampant within a double tressure (Fig. 942). Lyon of
Glamis.

6. An eagle displayed, surmounted by a bend with three crescents
(see Fig. 942). Ramsay of Dunoun.

MONUMENT AT ABERDALGIE, PERTHSHIRE.

An incised monument (Fig. 943) in the churchyard of Aberdalgie, which is situated from three to four miles south-west of Perth, commemorates Sir William Olifurd or Oliphant of Aberdalgie, for ever memorable as the defender of Stirling Castle against the force of Edward I. in 1304. Edward conducted the siege in person, and for upwards of three months a small garrison of men withstood his utmost

power, although he brought all his great resources to bear on the castle. At length, through exhaustion and famine, and the effect of Edward’s battering engines, the garrison capitulated, and Olifurd was sent a prisoner to the Tower. He was one of the forty noblemen who, at Arbroath Abbey in 1320, signed the famous protest against papal encroachment. Sir William Olifurd is thus entitled to be regarded as one of the heroes of his country, and his tomb deserves all the care that can be bestowed on it. It lay over his grave in the church of Aberdalgie, and when that structure (not a stone of which now remains) was taken down it lay exposed to the weather for about seven years afterwards. In 1780 it was protected by a great stone slab being placed over it as a roof. This slab is only raised about 12 inches above the monument, so that it is with great difficulty it can be seen. The figure is really in better preservation than it appears in the drawing, but it is hardly possible to make out more of the carving. The stone roof above it is very insecure, and ought to be attended to; and some better defence is needed, as the action of the weather is causing the monument to scale off, and all the architectural decoration will very soon disappear. The slab requires protection from the sun as much as from the rain. The Sketch shows that the north or left side, which is in the shade of the stone roof, is better preserved than the south or right side, the former not being subject to so great an alternation of wet and dry as the latter.

The monumental slab is in one stone, and measures 8 feet 2½ inches long by 4 feet 4 inches wide, and is 6½ inches thick, so that the figure is about life size. The face is quite destroyed. The canopy over the figure, which is engraved in the stone, is the best preserved part. This consists of three cusped arches. Beneath each side arch there is a shield; the one on the sinister side bears the Oliphant arms, the other is almost effaced. The side borders have been very richly carved. They are each divided into four niches, all of which have contained figures, but only one of them is now entire. The border on the dexter side is almost all gone.

All round the stone there has been a raised inscription, of which only a letter or two at top and bottom now remain, and these will, doubtless, soon scale away. At the four corners the inscription has been blocked by the emblems of the evangelists, of which only a part of the emblem of St. Mark now remains, and this is so fragile that it might be picked away with the finger. There has also been some kind of geometrical figure in the centre of the inscription, only the beginning of which remains on one side.

This is one of the finest of the few incised monuments which remain in Scotland.

CREICH CHURCH, FIFESHIRE.

The ruins of this church stand in an old churchyard, overshadowed by trees, not far from the ancient Castle of Creich,[192] and about six miles north-west from Cupar.

The original structure (Fig. 944) has been an oblong single chamber, 60 feet by 15 feet internally. Apparently there has been no window in the east wall, and all the other windows appear to have been altered, except one near the east end of the north wall, which is 6 inches wide, and is round headed, and splays widely to the interior. All the other windows are square headed, and have probably been altered. It is not easy to say whether the doorway is original or not; it is situated in the position where one would expect it to have been originally. It is round arched, or, if pointed, only very slightly so. It has a stone lintel in the interior, raised in the manner shown (Fig. 945) to admit of the leaves of the door opening.

There is a south chapel or aisle entering from the church by a round-arched opening. The arch has the usual wide double splay resting on the caps of the responds at each side (see Fig. 946). This aisle has a massive base, stepped at various places to suit the sloping ground.

In the north wall there are two semicircular arched recesses, apparently for monuments. The westmost one (Fig. 947) consists of bead and hollow mouldings, with rosettes in the hollows. The other recess, near the east end, is of later workmanship, possibly of the seventeenth century; it has a projecting keystone containing the Barclay arms. On the floor, within this recess, but placed there in quite a temporary manner, there lies the very finely-incised monument shown in Fig. 948; the inscription, on a bevelled edge, bears that it is to the memory of David Barclay of Luthrie, who died in 1400, and Helen de Douglas, his wife, who died

in 1421. The stone is about 6 feet 6 inches long by 2 feet 11 inches wide, and the workmanship of the figures and canopy over, which is incised in the stone, consists of elaborate tabernacle work, corresponding with that found on the monuments and brasses of other countries. The hands and faces shown hatched on the Sketch are rough sinkings, and are supposed to have been filled in with brass. Over the figures there are rich architectural canopies, each of slightly different design. Of two shields, one contains the Barclay arms; the other is quite worn.

The church was probably erected about the time of the date on the monument; and the south aisle was, in all likelihood, erected shortly before the Reformation.

FASLANE CHURCH, ARGYLESHIRE.

This ruined structure is situated in a retired spot on the Gareloch, a branch of the Frith of Clyde, and about one mile from Garelochhead. It has consisted of a single chamber (Fig. 949), measuring about 37 feet 10 inches long by 17 feet 9 inches wide inside. The walls are in a very broken down condition, but, fortunately, the east gable is well preserved. From the style, the building would at once, except in the West Highlands, be considered of thirteenth century date, but in that locality it may have been somewhat later.

There are two lancet windows in the east end (Fig. 950), a Plan of which is given to a large scale (Fig. 951), from which, and from the interior view (Fig. 952), it will be seen that they are widely splayed towards the interior, and have round arches, slightly flattened on the top.

In the north wall, adjoining the east end, there is the usual ambry, chocked for a door. Alongside the ambry are the remains of a window jamb. Probably the entrance was in the south wall, near the west end.

In the thirteenth century the castle of Faslane occupied an almost impregnable summit, at the junction of two glens. “Near to the castle there was a chapel, dedicated, it is supposed, to St. Michael, with a burying-ground attached, and, a little beyond it, a mound, where the priest’s house is reported to have stood.”[193] This church was probably that now illustrated. The old castle was originally occupied by the Earls of Lennox or members of their family, but, before 1400, it was forsaken for Inchmurran, in Loch Lomond. In the fourteenth century Alan of Faslane married Margaret, the only daughter of Donald, the sixth earl, and so acquired the honours of the earldom. In the sixteenth century Faslane was feued to Archibald M‘Aulay of Ardincaple; and about the middle of the eighteenth century the ruined castle furnished a shelter to the last representative of that family.

INDEX.

Abailard, 1.

Abdie, 218.

---- St. Magridin’s Church, 293.

Aberdalgie, Monument at, 551.

Aberdeen, King’s College, 285, 445, 504.

Abernethy, 86, 209.

Altyre Church, Morayshire, 290.

Amiens Cathedral, 65.

Anderson, Joseph, 209, 210.

---- R. Rowand, architect, 92.

Apses and square east ends, 4.

Arbroath Abbey, 2, 3, 4, 218, 332;
description, 30.

---- Abbot’s House, 49.

---- ---- Regality Court-house, 48.

Arbuthnot, 92.

Architecture, New development of, 1.

---- in Scotland, gap in, 331.

Ardchattan, 146, 245.

Aroise Abbey, Artois, France, 230.

Auchindoir Church, Aberdeenshire, description, 281.

Balmerino Abbey, description, 505.

Barrel Vaults, 333.

Batten, E. Chisholm, 147, 245, 395, 399, 402, 543.

Bays, Design of, 4.

Beauly Priory, 2, 146;
description, 245.

Beverley Minster, 363.

Billings, R., 122, 389.

Birnie Church, 121.

Black’s _Brechin_, 204, 215.

Border monasteries destroyed, 331.

Bothwell Church, 333, 531.

Brechin Cathedral, 3, 86, 223;
description, 203.

Brechin Maison Dieu, 215.

Buittle Church, Kirkcudbrightshire, description, 300, 344.

Burntisland Church, description, 269.

Bute, Marquis of, 6, 19, 23, 482.

Caithness Cathedral, 3.

Cambuskenneth Abbey, 3, 515;
description, 225.

Campbell, Rev. Dr., Balmerino, 505.

Cathedrals, chiefly thirteenth century, 2.

Chalmers, P. Macgregor, 196, 199, 378, 379, 380, 381, 382, 393, 483.

Chambers, Dr. William, 443.

Chapel on “The Isle,” Wigtonshire, description, 297.

Choir and nave, relative length of, 5.

Clackmannan Church, 231.

Cockpen Church, 303.

Collegiate Churches, 334.

Collie, J., 163, 186.

Cowie Church, Kincardineshire, 273.

Creich Church, 554.

Crosraguel Abbey, 76, 332, 342, 478;
description, 402.

Culross Abbey, 2, 3;
description, 231.

---- Old Parish Church, 243.

Decorated Period, 331.

---- ---- Examples of, rare in Scotland, 332.

Deer, Abbey of, 274.

---- Church, 278.

Donoughmore, County Meath, 210.

Dore, Abbey of, Hertfordshire, 186, 381.

Dornoch Cathedral, 3.

Douglas Church, description, 520.

Dryburgh Abbey, 4, 332, 345, 346, 349, 365.

Dunblane Cathedral, 2, 3, 4, 116;
description, 86.

Dundee Church, 235.

Dundrennan Abbey, 2, 3, 335, 342.

Dunfermline Abbey, 3, 92, 485.

Dunkeld Cathedral, 3.

Dunstaffnage Castle, Chapel, description, 299.

Durham Cathedral, 92.

Dysart Church, 235.

Edrom Church, 162.

Egilsay, Orkney, 209.

Elgin Cathedral, 2, 3, 4, 146, 147, 152, 154, 196, 322, 331;
description, 121.

---- St. Giles’, 157.

Ely, 92.

Eyre, Archbishop, 195.

Fail Abbey, 76.

Faslane Church, 557.

Fearn Abbey, Ross-shire, 542.

First Pointed Style, 1, 2.

---- ---- introduced from England, 3.

Fortrose Cathedral, 331;
description, 394.

Galloway Cathedral, 3.

---- A Church in, 378.

---- William, architect, 76, 80, 81, 297, 482, 486.

Glasgow Cathedral, 2, 3, 4, 125, 186, 324, 331, 379, 382.

---- High Kirk, 378.

---- St. Mungo’s Cathedral, description, 160.

Glenluce Abbey, 379.

Gogar Church, Font, 306.

Grose, Captain, 76, 204, 391, 393.

Haddington (St. Mary’s) Parish Church, 445;
description, 491.

Hexham Church, 6.

Holyrood Abbey, 2, 3, 4, 330, 332;
description, 53.

Honeyman, John, architect, 160, 161, 165, 168, 169, 171, 198.

Hunter Blair, F. C., 402.

Inchcolm Abbey, 2, 92;
description, 307.

Inchmahome Priory, 3;
description, 112.

Inverkeithing Church, 547.

Jedburgh Abbey, 2, 75, 162, 332, 345.

Jervise, Andrew, 282, 283.

Kelso Abbey, 2, 75, 345.

Kerr, Henry F., 492.

Kilwinning Abbey, 2, 3, 4, 332;
description, 73.

Kineddar Church, 121.

King’s College, Aberdeen, 285, 445, 504.

---- ---- Cambridge, 393.

Kinloss Abbey, 121, 232, 402.

Kinross, J., architect, 6, 23.

Kirkwall Cathedral, 3, 4.

Laing, Alexander, 218, 219.

---- Dr. David, 429.

Lamington, 37.

Lanark, St. Kentigern’s, description, 266.

Lancet windows, 4.

Lerida Cathedral, Spain, 37.

Lincluden College, 120, 333, 379, 381, 535;
description, 383.

Lincoln Cathedral, 3.

Lindores Abbey, 4, 294;
description, 217.

Linlithgow Church, 445, 504;
description, 455.

Lismore Cathedral, description, 263.

Luffness Monastery, description, 288.

Mackison, William, architect, 227.

Maison Dieu, Brechin, description, 215.

Martine’s _Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ_, 19, 23, 24, 27, 29.

Mavisbank House, 258.

Melrose Abbey, 331, 332, 342, 438;
Resemblance of details to York, 333;
description, 344.

Middle Pointed Period, 331.

Monkton Church, description, 285.

Morris, James A., 405.

Muir, T. S., 215, 283, 299, 395, 396, 449, 479.

Neal’s _Ecclesiological Notes_, 538, 540.

New Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, 332;
description, 334.

Newbattle Abbey, 75, 332, 346;
description, 251.

Niddisdale, 378.

Norman Piers, 4.

Orkney, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, 3.

Oudenarde, Belgium, 445.

Paisley Abbey, 75, 286, 332, 378, 379, 393, 501.

Parish Churches, 5.

Pencaitland Church, description, 304.

Piers, First Pointed, 4.

Pinches, Frederick, 378.

Pluscardine Priory, 2, 3, 4, 349;
description, 146.

Pointed Style, 2, 3.

---- Arch in Scotland, 2.

Prestonkirk Church, 271.

Prestwick Church, 286.

---- de Burgo, 286.

---- Monachorum, 286.

---- Prestwick, St. Nicholas’, description, 285.

Ramsay, John, 253, 255.

Rattray, St. Mary’s Chapel, 292.

Redfriars Monastery, Luffness, 288.

Restorations of churches in fifteenth century, 331.

Robb’s _Guide to Haddington_, 492, 504.

Robertson, T. S., architect, 42, 48, 49, 50, 51, 273, 517.

Romanesque abandoned, 1.

Rosemarkie, 394, 395.

Ross, Cathedral of, 331.

Rosslyn Chapel, 199.

---- Collegiate Church, 186.

Rothesay Castle, Chapel, 517.

Round arch in Scotland, 2.

St. Adamnan’s, Burntisland, 269.

St. Alban’s Abbey, 73, 92.

---- St. Stephen’s, 73.

St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory, 2, 3, 4, 86, 125, 256, 331, 342, 378, 379;
description, 5.

---- St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh, 29.

---- Towers, 3.

St. Bridget’s or St. Bride’s, Douglas, description, 520.

St. Bride’s Collegiate Church, Bothwell, description, 531.

St. Colmanel of Butyle, 300;
description, 344.

St. Cuthbert’s, Monkton, description, 285.

St. Duthus’ Churches, Tain, description, 537.

St. Giles’ Collegiate Church, Edinburgh, 331, 457, 460, 466, 504;
description, 419.

---- Elgin, 157.

St. Kentigern’s, Lanark, description, 266.

St. Magnus’ Cathedral, Orkney, 3.

St. Magridin’s, Abdie, description, 293.

St. Mary’s Chapel, Rattray, description, 292.

St. Michael’s Parish Church, Linlithgow, description, 455.

St. Monans’ Church, Fifeshire, description, 471.

St. Mungo’s Cathedral, Glasgow, description, 160.

St. Mungo, Church of, Culross, 232.

St. Nicholas’, Prestwick, description, 285.

St. Nicholas’ Church, Newcastle, 445.

St. Ninian’s (?) on “The Isle,” 297.

Salisbury Cathedral, 3, 186.

Scott, Sir G. Gilbert, 172.

Seton Chapel, 501.

Sharp’s “Cistercian Architecture,” 241, 242.

Skipness, Kintyre, 300.

Smith, Dr. John, 378.

Spottiswoode, Archbishop, 19, 29, 107.

Spynie Church, 121, 140.

Stokes, Miss, 209.

Stone roofs, 333.

Sweetheart Abbey, 332;
description, 334.

Temple Church, 486.

Third or Late Pointed Style, 332.

Torphichen Church, 235.

Towers, Central, 3.

Transition Style, 2.

Triforium omitted, 4.

Trinity College Church, 426, 478.

Tungland Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, description 301.

Turgot, 6.

Tynninghame Church, 234.

Vaults, Pointed, 2.

---- Barrel, 333.

Watson, Robert, architect, 86.

---- T. L., architect, 172, 173, 184.

Whithorn Priory, 379;
description, 479.

Winchester Cathedral, 373.

Wooden roofs, 2.

Wyntoun House, 306.

Wyntown’s _Cronykill_, 8, 19, 27.

York Cathedral, 3, 333, 363, 381.

ERRATA. (corrected in this etext)

Page 80, fifth line from top, _for_ 502, _read_ 503.

Page 89, fifth line from top, _for_ eastern, _read_ northern.

Page 196, first line, _for_ 599, _read_ 600.

Page 308, third line from bottom, _for_ port, _read_ post.

Page 540, sixth line from bottom, _for_ piers, _read_ pews.

Pages 7, &c., _for_ fratry, _read_ fratry.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Vol. I. p. 46.

[2] See Vol. I. p. 43.

[3] See _Viollet-le-Duc Dictionnaire_--_passim_; also, _Development and Character of Gothic Architecture_, by C. H. Moore (1890).

[4] Vol. I. p. 40.

[5] Bower (Vol. I. p. 375-6).

[6] Introduction, p. 39.

[7] Vol. I. p. 62.

[8] _Ibid._ p. 355.

[9] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 46.

[10] Vol. I. p. 259.

[11] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 47.

[12] Introduction, Vol. I. p. 49.

[13] _Ibid._ p. 11.

[14] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 274.

[15] See Vol. I. p. 185.

[16] Over.

[17] Apparently the door seen on Plan immediately west of the south transept.

[18] Tribute.

[19] Martine’s _Reliquiæ Divi Andreæ_ (St. Andrews, 1797), pp. 40 and 192.

[20] We have to thank Mr. Kinross, architect, for the plan of the conventual buildings, here shown, which have been recently excavated.

[21] Martine, p. 206, and Hay Fleming’s _Guide to St. Andrews_.

[22] Book ix.

[23] _Exchequer Rolls_, Vol. III., p. xlix.

[24] Lyon’s _History of St. Andrews_, p. 191.

[25] Quoted by Hay in his _History of Arbroath_, p. 27.

[26] Vol. I. p. 376.

[27] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. I., p. 561.

[28] _Arbroath and its Abbey_, by David Miller, 1860, p. 103.

[29] _Arbroath and its Abbey_, p. 105-6. See also _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. v. p. 526.

[30] _History of Arbroath_, by George Hay, p. 91.

[31] _Ibid._, p. 193.

[32] See Description of Holyrood Palace, _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. IV. p. 130.

[33] _Wilson’s Memorials_, Vol. II. p. 185.

[34] For an illustration and description of the lectern, see _Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland_, 1878-9, p. 287.

[35] Pont’s _Cuninghame_ by Dobie, p. 254.

[36] _Ibid._ p. 260.

[37] Pont’s _Cuninghame_ by Dobie, p. 266.

[38] Vol. I. p. 89.

[39] We have to thank Mr. Robert Watson, architect, London, for the geometric drawings of this cathedral--Figs. 509, 514, 515, 516-519, 520, 522, and 523.

[40] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 396.

[41] See St. Blane’s, Bute, Vol. I. p. 292.