Chapter VI: Part 6

The Irish round towers are divided by Miss Stoke’s classification into four periods; and the nature of the masonry of the Brechin Tower corresponds with the third of those periods, which in Ireland would be the first half of the tenth century, but in this derivative example would, doubtless, be somewhat later.

The doorway, with its sculpture (Fig. 612), is especially interesting. It presents features all characteristic of its Irish originals. The aperture is small, and the jambs are inclined inwards towards the top. They are in single stones the full breadth of the wall, and are covered with a

single stone, hollowed out into a semicircular arch. The arch has two such stones in the thickness. The sill is also in one stone. These stones are all dressed and carved with an architrave-like figure running all round the doorway, enriched with a flat pellet ornament, a form of frequent use in Irish examples. On the summit of the arch is carved a crucifixion, with the legs not crossed. In the round tower at Donoughmore, County Meath, a representation of the Crucifixion occupies a similar position over the head of the doorway. Dr. J. Anderson gives the following minute description of the sculpture of the Brechin Tower:--“In the middle of the height of the jambs on either side are raised panels, bearing figures in relief of men habited as ecclesiastics. One bears a pastoral staff of the form peculiar to the early Celtic Church, having a curved head resembling that of a walking-stick. The other bears a book on his breast, and carries a cross-headed or tau-staff, which is of exceedingly rare occurrence either in this country or any other. At the lower part of the jambs on either side are the figures of two crouching beasts. One is a winged griffin, and both bear a close affinity to the figures of nondescript creatures carved on the early sculptured memorial stones.”[76] On each side of the arch of the doorway are two projecting blank panels, apparently intended for sculptures never executed.

When the Bishopric of Brechin was founded by King David, a church would, no doubt, be erected, but of that structure not a fragment remains. Of the existing building the western doorway (Fig. 613) presents the oldest feature. It is 5 feet 9 inches wide, and deeply recessed, the jambs being enriched with five detached shafts set in a series of nooks, and having moulded caps and bases, the caps with round abaci. The arch is pointed, and contains five orders carved with numerous bold mouldings, some of which present details showing the remains of a highly relieved chevron, a lingering form of Norman enrichment, together with rows of dog-tooth ornaments. The whole effect is simple and massive, and corresponds with other examples of early first pointed work, which may be assigned to the early part of the thirteenth century.

The upper and the southern parts of the west façade (see Fig. 610) have been rebuilt at a later period. The portion over the doorway contains a fine example of late decorated tracery in the large western window, and the rebuilt portion to the south contains a niche, which is rather eccentrically introduced (see Fig. 613).

Cap in Interior Angle of Tower.]

As mentioned in the foregoing historical notes, we have an indication that the north-west tower or “belfry” was apparently in course of construction between 1351 and 1373. To judge from some of the features of the building, it must have been a long time in erection. It was probably begun before the above date, and the lower part may have been built during the thirteenth century. The design of the angle caps (Fig. 614) which support the vaulting of the ground floor is of a decidedly first pointed character. Possibly these capitals may have belonged to an older tower, and were simply reused in the reconstruction of the existing tower. The peculiar vaulting of the ground floor of the tower (Fig. 615), and the form of the base and other details, point to a later date than that of the capitals. The upper part of the tower containing the fine belfry windows (Fig. 616) may be classed as decorated work, and probably belongs to the time (fourteenth century) of Bishop Patrick, above referred to. The spire is doubtless later, having a series of lucarnes such as are usual in the spires of the third pointed period. The effect of the tower and spire is good. It is the completest and best remaining example of its kind in Scotland. The tower is 70 feet in height, and the octagonal spire is 58 feet high. Some portions of the parapet have been altered and restored.

The choir (see Fig. 611), so far as preserved, shows the ruins of a fine example of first pointed work. It has been without aisles, and the side walls contained a series of tall lancet windows, with plain chamfers externally, but having the wall space relieved internally with detached shafts and moulded arches, enriched with the dog-tooth.

The shafts are arranged so as to form a cluster of three smaller shafts round a larger central nucleus. They have round moulded caps, bases, and central band. The shafts are now much mutilated, but they are shown restored in the drawing.

The choir, which Mr. Muir states was originally 84 feet 4 inches in length, is now reduced to three lancet windows on the north side, and one and a respond on the south side, the existing portions of the side walls being about 30 feet in length. An enriched cornice runs along the wall head above the windows.

The choir, although now reduced to a mere fragment, must, when complete, have been a very pure and beautiful piece of architecture.

MAISON DIEU, BRECHIN, FORFARSHIRE.

This is an interesting fragment of first pointed work. The chapel is said to have been founded, in 1256, by William de Brechin for the repose of the souls of Kings William and Alexander, and of his brother John, Earl of Chester and Huntingdon; of Henry, his father, and Juliana, his mother. This structure, no doubt, as its name implies, formed part of a hospital. It was endowed with lands, some of which it still retains--one place being yet known as the Maison Dieu Farm. A small revenue derived from the land is generally gifted by the Crown to the rector of the Grammar School, who consequently signs himself “Praeceptor Domus Dei.”[77]

The part of the chapel which still survives stands in a back lane in the centre of the town of Brechin, and consists of a portion of the south wall and a small piece of the east wall (Fig. 617). The sketches show that the work is in the first pointed style, and is simple and pure in character. The south wall (Fig. 618), which bounds the lane on one side, is about 40 feet in length, and contains a doorway, with a nook shaft in each jamb, and good mouldings in the arch (Fig. 619). It also contains three lancet windows and one jamb of a fourth. The fragment of the east wall terminates at the jamb of the first window. The mouldings

and other details of the windows are plain, but effective, the sconsion mouldings being unusually fine (Figs. 620 and 621). There is a piscina in the south wall with a stone shelf, but the details are a good deal damaged.

This fragment is valuable, and should be carefully preserved.

LINDORES ABBEY,[78] FIFESHIRE.

The scanty ruins of this once important abbey are situated a short distance eastwards from the town of Newburgh, and not far from the south bank of the Tay.

The abbey was founded by David, Earl of Huntingdon, grandson of David I., and brother of King William the Lion. The foundation took place in 1178, being the same year as that in which Arbroath Abbey was founded by William the Lion. The abbey was colonised by Tironensian monks from Kelso, Guido, the first abbot, having been previously prior of the latter monastery. The buildings are said to have been erected under the superintendence of Abbot Guido, but as he died in 1219, the style of architecture, which is pure first pointed, leads to the conclusion that they can only have been planned, and perhaps begun, under the first abbot. The institution was munificently endowed by the founder, who bestowed upon it churches both in Scotland and England. It was also encouraged by the De Quinceys, Earls of Winchester, who, in 1264, presented to it the peat moss of Kinloch and the Church of Culessy. The Church of Dundee also belonged to the monks of Lindores. The abbey is in the parish of Lindores (now Abdie) (_q.v._), and the name of the old Culdee church which stood beside the Loch of Lindores, a few miles to the south, was transferred from the church to the abbey, as being the most important ecclesiastical establishment in the parish. The word Lindores is believed to mean “the church by the water,” and “Abdie” refers to the possessions of the early monastic establishment.

Lindores Abbey was an institution of considerable importance, and was frequently the temporary residence of royalty. In 1265 it was visited by Alexander III., and in 1296 by Edward I., when he received the allegiance of the district. David II. also resided in the abbey. The unfortunate Duke of Rothesay, who perished at Falkland in 1401, was buried in the church.

James, Earl of Douglas and Duke of Turenne, after a lifetime spent in contending with James II. and III., retired to the Abbey of Lindores, where he passed the last five years of his life, and declined to be drawn from its seclusion either by James III. or his rebellious nobles, who both applied to him for his assistance. He died in 1488.

Towards the end of the fifteenth century the possessions of the monastery were felt to be in a precarious state, and tacks of the abbey lands were granted to laymen who could defend them. In 1543 the populace of Dundee made a destructive attack on the houses of the Black and Grey Friars in that town, and afterwards assailed the Abbey of Lindores, from which they ejected the monks and destroyed the furnishings and ornaments.

The abbey afterwards passed into the hands of commendators, till, in 1600, Patrick Leslie of Pitcairlie was created Lord Lindores, and endowed with the estates.

The buildings appear to have been allowed to go to ruin, and to have been gradually removed by the inhabitants for building materials. Mr. Laing gives instances to show that the ruins were regarded as a common

A. Presbytery. B. Crossing. C. Nave. D. North Transept. E. South Transept. F. Slype or Sacristy. G. Chapter House. H. Stair. J. Fratry. K. Tower. L. Cloister Garth. M. M. Western Side of Cloister N. N. Enclosing Wall.

FIG. 622.--Lindores Abbey. Plan.]

quarry, from which the public were accustomed to remove what they pleased. The whole place, early in this century, is described as heaped up with ruins and rubbish, so that even the ground plan could not be made out, and the abbey was known in the locality as the “Wilderness.” “This is now all changed; the rubbish has been cleared away down to the basement, and the plan of the building is distinctly seen.... About twenty-five years ago the foundations of a range of pillars, to the height of several feet, running along the north side of the nave, were laid bare by the partial removal of the rubbish by which they had been concealed. They were of the same elegant design as those fragments which remain; but very shortly after their discovery they were ruthlessly removed.”[79]

The abbey buildings (Fig. 622) consisted originally of a church, having an aisleless choir about 42 feet long by 24 feet wide; a nave, with north aisle, 132 feet in length by 40 feet in width; north and south transepts, measuring from north to south 111 feet, and, including the eastern aisle, 39 feet 6 inches wide; and a great tower at the north-west angle of the nave, measuring about 37 feet 9 inches over the buttresses.

To the south of the nave lay the cloister garth, with its surrounding cloister walk, measuring over all 107 feet by 96 feet. The buildings entering from the east side of the cloister are the best preserved parts of the structure. Adjoining the south transept is the vaulted slype or passage leading to the eastward. Next to it is the chapter house, 49 feet long by 24 feet 3 inches wide; and to the south of the chapter house is a building 55 feet long by 32 feet wide over the walls, which was probably the fratry or day-room of the monks. It is provided with buttresses and windows on the east side. At the north end of this apartment was the day staircase to the dormitory. The west and south sides of the cloistral buildings are now almost reduced to the ruins of a single wall on each side. Some traces of partition walls and buttresses may be observed on the west side, but on the south side only a doorway at the east end can be made out. The refectory doubtless lay, as usual, on this side.

The monastery was surrounded by a high wall, of which some portions still exist. This wall contains a large entrance archway (Fig. 623), with smaller footway at the south-west angle.

Of the church little but the foundation and some portions of the walls survive. The outline of the exterior of the choir, with its buttresses, can be clearly followed, but the interior has been stripped of its ashlar work. A recess on the north side doubtless contained a tomb, and some traces of the sedilia are visible. Two small coffins were found buried in the choir, which are believed to have contained the remains of two children of Earl David, the founder. The position of the east aisle of the transepts can be traced, with its buttresses. The north and south walls of the choir were carried, without openings, across the ends of the transept aisle. The wall in the north transept contains a portion of a double piscina (Fig. 624), one basin being scalloped and the other a plain circle. Amongst the most interesting parts of the structure are the foundations and one or two courses of the piers of the crossing. These are well preserved, and show the first pointed mouldings of the responds of the piers on three sides (Fig. 625), the mouldings being the same in the piers of the arches which crossed the choir and transept, and also in the arches of the transept aisle. They are all of fine first pointed design. The base of the piers (Fig. 626) is also first pointed. A doorway from the north-east angle of the cloister enters the church by the south transept, and not, as usual, by the nave. A considerable part of the south wall of the nave survives. It has small projections at intervals along the south face, which probably carried an arcade. Fig. 627 shows the section of the bases of the west end of the church and the tower.

Responds of Piers.]

Mouldings of Base of Piers.]

Another doorway entered the nave from the cloister some distance westwards from the crossing. The plan and elevation of the portion still remaining are shown in Figs. 628 and 629. This doorway had, towards the cloister, two nook shafts, with bold dog-toothed ornaments on the angles between the shafts, and on the interior sconsion a double beaded moulding. A third doorway led from the west end of the cloister into the nave.

The north aisle of the nave is now scarcely traceable. The walls of the north-western tower, which occupies a position similar to the tower of Brechin Cathedral, still stand to a height of about 8 feet. The tower had large square corner buttresses, and smaller intermediate ones on each face, with a base consisting of three plain set-offs (see Fig. 627). A wheel stair occupied the buttress at the north-east angle. There is now no trace of the western doorway of the church, but the base mouldings are shown in Fig. 627. There is a recess for a stoup in the south wall near the west doorway.

Church.

FIG. 627.--Lindores Abbey.

Bases at West End of Tower and Church.]

Plan of South Doorway of Nave.]

Jamb of South Doorway of Nave.]

As already mentioned, the vaulting of the slype (Fig. 630) is fairly well preserved. It consisted of two square bays, and had plain splayed groins springing from corbels, which have all a decidedly first pointed character. The doorway next the cloister had a pair of nook shafts, and the east doorway was plain. A stone bench runs along both sides of the slype.

The chapter house has had a stone bench running round the walls, and an arcade all round rested upon it. The shafts and bases can still be traced. The straight staircase to the south of the chapter house no doubt led to the dormitory, which would extend over the fratry to the south as well as the chapter house, A room over the slype may have been the scriptorium or library. The night passage of the monks to the church evidently passed through that apartment, as the stair was in the south-west angle of the transept, and could only be reached in that way.

Fig. 631 shows a portion of the carved effigy of a monument which is preserved amongst the ruins.

CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY, STIRLINGSHIRE.

The ruins of this abbey stand on the banks of the Forth, about a mile eastward from Stirling. The buildings are almost completely ruined, the detached tower at the west being almost the only part which remains in anything like a complete state. The plan of the church and the abbey buildings can only be conjectured from grass-grown foundations, with here and there a base course of dressed stone. The west doorway, however, although in a very mutilated condition, is nearly entire, as also is a portion of a gable wall and side walls at the extreme south-east corner of the buildings. All else is in the most fragmentary condition. The ground on which the church and cloister were erected is level, but to the east it slopes downward to the river, as indicated on the Plan (Fig. 632).

Till 1864 the whole site was covered with grassy mounds of earth, which indicated where buildings had formerly stood. In that year excavations were made, an account of which, together with a plan of the site by Mr. Mackison, architect, Stirling, was published.[80]

The church (see Fig. 632) was cruciform, having a nave, with a north aisle only; transepts, with eastern aisles; and a short aisleless presbytery. The length of the nave was about 120 feet, and the width about 35 feet between the walls. The transepts were about 70 feet long from north to south by about 38 feet in width within the walls, and the total internal length of the church was about 190 feet. The whole structure was of one period, being entirely of first pointed or thirteenth century work; so much at least can be surmised from the Plan and from the west doorway (Fig. 633). The doorway projects about 9 inches from the face of the wall, and in the ingoing had five shafts in each jamb, all detached except one, and there was also a shaft in the outer angles of the projection in front of the west wall. In the nooks between the shafts there are smaller beads or shafts, all treated with separate caps. On either side of the outer shafts the dog-tooth ornament occurs. The jamb mouldings are much better preserved than those of the arch, the former having been buried in the ruins for centuries, while the latter, being within the reach of mischievous hands, have been very much defaced. An idea of the character of the mouldings will be obtained from the enlarged section (see Fig. 633); there was only one enrichment, and that was the dog-tooth. It will be observed that the inner moulding of the arch does not come to a point, but has a kind of flat keystone introduced, although the outer mouldings appear to have met in the usual way. A few bases of the shafts of a wall arcade remain against the south wall of the nave. An angle buttress at the north-east corner of the transept indicates later work, probably inserted here owing to the failure of the original buttresses, which are flat, and have little projection to support the vaulting.

The cloister, which lay on the south side of the church, was about 80 feet square. On the east side of the cloister, in a line with the south transept, there occurred first the slype and then the chapter house. The latter was a small apartment of about 21 feet square, which was, as usual, vaulted, and had an octagonal centre pillar.

A long, narrow building, which was doubtless the refectory, occupied the south side of the cloister. It measured about 70 feet long by 25 feet wide. To the east of this there are situated a cottage and an outhouse; the latter is certainly quite modern, and the cottage may have been a part of the monastery.

About 180 feet east from the chapter house a long range of buildings extended for upwards of 250 feet in a north and south direction; but as these are fragmentary, and as the detached buildings of a monastery were not conformable to a general plan, it is needless to attempt to define these further than to point out that the upper story of the south-east building was a dovecot, the walls of which are entire to a height of about 20 feet. The range of buildings, of which the dovecot forms the end next the river, extends, in its present condition, for about 120 feet westwards.

The tower (Fig. 634), which is the best preserved portion of the monastery, stands near the north-west angle of the church, but is detached from it. The abbey being situated on the extensive plain known as the Carse of Stirling, probably after the Reformation the tower was found to be useful as a place of outlook over the level country around, and also, perhaps, as a place of security. The monastery was difficult of access, being almost surrounded by the river Forth, which winds here in a remarkable manner. It is, therefore, not unlikely that for the above reasons the tower has been preserved entire. It measures rather more than 30 feet square, with walls about 6 feet thick. It is groin vaulted on the ground floor, and has an octagonal turret stair leading to the top. From old plates it appears to have been finished on the top with the usual cape house and chimneys. The existence of fireplaces indicates, as above suggested, that the tower was taken possession of as a watch tower or castle, and was thus preserved. It is peculiar in being detached from the church, from which it is separated about 20 feet. The entrance to the tower (see Fig. 634) is by a narrow doorway in the south front. It has a slightly projecting porch with a high gablet, containing a niche, and is surmounted by a buttress. There are indications of buildings having been attached to the tower on the east side, but they have been of later construction than the tower, and were probably outhouses, such as are frequently found in connection with the pele towers. The finishing of the upper part of the parapet is modern. The tower is four stories in height, and is of good simple design in the later first pointed style.

The abbey was founded by King David I., with the consent of his eldest son, Prince Henry. The foundation charter is without date, but it probably belongs to the year 1147.[81] It appears to have been the original intention to call the abbey by the name of St. Mary, Stirling, as in the first charter it is by this name that the lands and fishings of Cambuskenneth are granted, and in all the early charters during the time of the first three abbots it is so designated. In 1201, as appears from two bulls by Pope Innocent III., the name was changed to St. Mary, Cambuskenneth.

The abbey was a house of the Canons Regular of St. Augustine, brought from Aroise Abbey, in the French province of Artois. The monastery was richly endowed. In 1445 the establishment consisted of the abbot, the prior, and seventeen monks. Many of the abbots were distinguished men, and were much employed as statesmen and Ambassadors.

About one hundred years after the above date of 1201 the abbey was in a distressful condition, owing to losses which it had suffered “by the wars which had for a long time raged in those parts, and by the conduct of certain sons of iniquity, who had seized and carried off the chalices, books, and the rest of the ornaments of the altar and other goods belonging to the abbey, and through the destruction of the bell tower by lightning, which had so reduced their circumstances that they were totally unable to repair the choir of the abbey, which was going to ruin.”[82] The abbot and convent appealed to Clement V., and, by a bull dated 15th September 1306, he conferred on the convent, by way of compensation, the perpetual vicarage of the Parish Church of Clackmannan. Probably it is to about this time that we may assign the erection of the tower, and that it should be constructed so as to form a place of strength, as suggested above, seems natural from the foregoing narrative.

During the time of Abbot Mylne (1517-48) the great altar and chapter house were rebuilt, and two new cemeteries were formed. These were consecrated and dedicated, on 11th July 1521, by James, Bishop of Dunblane. Regarding the existence of a previous chapter house there is ample evidence, but the circumstances which required a new one to be built are not known.

During the time of Adam Erskine as commendator (1562-1608), his chief, John, Earl of Mar, Lord Erskine, built his palace in the High Street of Stirling, and the tradition is that he used the carved stones of the abbey for this purpose. There is no evidence in support of this, and we do not think there is anything in the circumstances to confirm it. We have already referred to the matter at some length.[83]

The Abbey of Cambuskenneth figured prominently in many events of national importance. James III. and his queen, Margaret of Denmark, were here interred before the high altar, and their remains were found in the excavations of 1864, and were reinterred, a stone altar-monument being erected over them by Queen Victoria.

CULROSS ABBEY, PERTHSHIRE.

The lofty tower of this venerable abbey stands out prominently on the top of the wooded bank of the Forth, about eight miles below Alloa and six miles from Dunfermline. It is situated in a detached portion of Perthshire.

The small, but ancient, town of Culross, which owes its origin to the abbey, clusters below it on the slope of the hill, and along its base at the river side.

In the seventeenth century the town took a great development, owing to the collieries and other industries established by Sir George Bruce, and the harbour was crowded with shipping. But during the present century this commercial activity has entirely disappeared, and the little town has relapsed into a quiet, old-fashioned place, still, however, full of interest and picturesqueness. Amongst its ancient buildings are the “Study,” the Tolbooth, and the “Palace,” which have been described in the _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 432, and Vol. V. pp. 25 and 119.

The town is also prolific in ecclesiastical structures, of which the remains of no less than three still exist. The principal of these is the abbey. The others consist of the ruins of the ancient parish church, situated about a mile to the west, and the remnants of the Church of St. Mungo, which lie at the base of the slope a short way to the east of the town.

The abbey was founded, in 1217, by Malcolm, third Earl of Fife. Almost nothing is known of its history, but it is believed to occupy the site hallowed by the memory of St. Mungo and his reputed preceptor, St. Serf or Servanus. St. Mungo is, by tradition, said to have been born on the shore of the Forth at this place, whither his mother was miraculously brought by a storm, and to have been nurtured and trained by St. Serf, an ancient Celtic ecclesiastic, already settled at Culross. This story, however, is discarded by Dr. Skene, who maintains that St. Mungo or Kentigern died in 603, while Servanus did not found the Church of Culross till the end of the seventh century.

This ancient foundation was apparently revived by Earl Malcolm, who introduced a body of Cistercian monks from Kinloss, of which abbey, Hugh, the first prior, was abbot.

From the evidence of the architecture it is apparent that the establishment founded by Earl Malcolm was erected in the thirteenth century. Considerable remains of that period, and some walls of what might be regarded as of earlier date, are still traceable; but the principal parts of the existing church, which has been much altered, are of considerably later date.

The plan of the church is peculiar (Fig. 635). Its most conspicuous feature is the tower, which rises from the ground in the centre of the building, with four solid walls. To the west of this tower are a few relics of what appears to have been a separate church, while to the east of it is a complete church, consisting of the choir, north and south transepts, and a portion which may be called the nave, running westwards from the crossing to the tower.

A few fragments of the old monastic structures also survive. Adjoining the south transept are parts of two early doorways, and running southwards from the west end of the west church are the manse (which comprises old walls) and a large groined hall, which may have formed the hall of the lay brothers of the convent. A vaulted passage adjoins it, leading into the manse garden, which evidently occupies the site of the original cloisters. The church formed the north side of the quadrangle, while along the south side stretched a series of buildings which, doubtless, contained the refectory. Owing to the slope of the ground these erections are supported on vaults, part of which still remains.

The site of the church is level throughout its whole length on the north and east, and along the south side of the choir as far as the tower within the walls shown on Plan. The cloister garth and the buildings on the west side stand on ground about 10 feet lower, while along the south side of the cloister the ground suddenly descends about 20 feet. It was thus necessary, beneath the vaulted buildings shown on the south-west side, to bring up extensive vaulted cellars, which extended along the south and east sides of the cloister as far as the chapter house. All these under-buildings are clearly shown by Slezer, who represents this abbey with some minuteness as it existed in his time (1693).

Considerable remains of the church and abbey buildings are still standing, either in a ruinous or greatly altered condition. Extensive alterations were made on the fabric in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries to adapt certain portions of the old buildings to modern purposes, and the eastern end of the edifice is now used as the parish church. There have been, as already stated, an east and a west church, separated from each other by a central tower rising solidly from the ground. The tower and the east church are still entire, but of the west church only the south wall and the start of the north wall at the tower now remain, as shown on Plan. Both churches have been of about the same dimensions--viz., 78 feet by about 21 feet 6 inches wide, and both are without aisles.

The south wall of the west church has some indications of transition work, the masonry being arranged in the cube courses peculiar to early work. Towards the west end (in the gable of the manse) there is a round arched doorway, now built up, but it contains very little indication of style. This was, doubtless, the usual entrance to the nave from the west end of the cloister. The south wall is about 7 or 8 feet high from the level of the nave floor, and more than twice that height from the level of the cloisters. The windows were above the top of the wall, as is seen at the east end adjoining the tower, where there exist the springing and jamb of a window, with continuous mouldings both on the north and south sides. These are, undoubtedly, fragments of fifteenth or sixteenth century work. Slezer, in his views, shows a series of six or seven round-headed windows at above level along the south side of the west church. It is sometimes conjectured that these may have been Norman, but certainly the existing jambs of the eastmost windows above referred to are not so. Slezer, we may remark, is not to be depended on for accuracy of details. It is said that these windows were taken down for materials to build dykes with by the late parish minister, Dr. Erskine.

The position of the west end of this church is a matter of conjecture, but it is almost certain that the present modern entrance gateway is built on its site. The projecting part of wall at =X= on Plan has a large bead on the corner, and it is clearly the corner of the south-west buttress of the nave, with the base mouldings returned round it.

The lower story of the tower is much older than the portion above it. This is evident from the nature of the building, and also from the door and window openings in it. Entering from the west church, a low doorway, 5 feet wide, leads into the tower; it is late first pointed in detail, round arched, or very slightly pointed in some of its orders. At each side of this doorway there are arched openings, which recall the recesses on each side of the chancel arch at Tynninghame Church. That on the west side is a low, plain pointed opening, about 3 feet wide, now built up. Between the centre door and the southmost of these built up openings there is a pointed stoup, the lower part of which is buried by a grave mound. Above the doorway, and beneath the sloping marks of the roof of the west church, a wide semicircular window opens into the tower--a singular feature not easily understood. The doorways in the interior of the tower are all of late work--similar to that of the sixteenth century in Scotland. Fig. 636 shows the upper part of the interior of the west door. The style of the work is clearly late. The initials A. M. may stand for the name of Mallet, as there seem to be three mallets on the shield.

The tower (Fig. 637) measures 84 feet high to the top of the parapet; it has been operated on at various times. The projecting round staircase-turret is an addition of, perhaps, the fifteenth century; the lower part of the tower, as is evident from the west doorway, is probably of the thirteenth century. It is groin vaulted at the first story, as shown on Plan. This vault, and all above, are of sixteenth century work, with the exception of the upper part above the cornice, which dates from this century. The old finishing of the tower is shown by Slezer to have been carried out with a cape house and bartisan like the pele towers, or as shown at the churches of Torphichen, Dysart, and Dundee.

The doorway from the tower to the east church and the passage leading to the chapel, which stood on the east side of the transept, are late Gothic. The east church, as already stated, is a complete cruciform structure, having choir, transepts, and nave in itself. The north transept (see Fig. 637) was built, in 1640, by George Bruce of Carnock, it is surmised, on older foundations. The south transept is, generally speaking, old; it had an east aisle, opening by two arches from the transept and one arch from the choir. This aisle is now removed, and the arches are built up, but their outlines are visible from the exterior (Fig. 638). This aisle is shown by Slezer with a lean-to roof against the transept. In the corresponding position on the north side there appears to have been a similar aisle; part of its east wall still exists (Fig. 639), with an early two-light window, and the remains of what appears to have been a canopied tomb, although Mr. Beveridge[84] regards it as being the doorway to the north aisle. Built against the wall, in an upright position, is the recumbent figure probably belonging to this tomb.

All the original windows of the east church, which were large and important, have been built up during this century, and smaller windows of a debased type inserted, with the exception of the east window (see Fig. 638), which is original, and is of good design; but even this is lost to the interior, being partitioned off in order to allow a gallery stair to pass it.

A part of the west wall of a chapel, which formerly existed to the north of the tower, is indicated by the jamb and springing of a window. A sketch section of its mouldings is given in Fig. 640, as also a section of the mouldings of the door to the turret, which entered from this chapel. These mouldings are evidently not earlier than late fourteenth century work. There are two seventeenth century burial vaults adjoining the north transept. In the larger of these is the fine monument to Sir Robert Bruce of Carnock, illustrated in _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. V. p. 207.

Sections of Mouldings of Chapel Window and Turret Door.]

Adjoining the south transept on the south is the sacristy, now converted into a vestry, and hardly to be recognised as old, owing to alterations. The shape and position of this apartment clearly indicate its original use; it had the usual east window, now built up, and has otherwise been altered.

To the south of the sacristy was the chapter house, which also occupied its normal position. Just enough remains to enable it to be identified, viz., the northmost of the usual three west openings to the cloister (Fig. 641), with the jamb and springing of the central opening, or as much of it as can be seen for the modern walls that are built up against it. This fragment, even in its mutilated state, is a fine example of first pointed work. The inner order of the arch mouldings has fallen away, and otherwise the work has been greatly destroyed, its beauty not having been appreciated. The shafts and arch mouldings (Fig. 642) are all of very bold and pure design. The caps and bases are rounded, and the hood mould, which was also a string course, is ornamented with the dog-tooth. The chapter house had two rows of columns, as is evident from the remains of the springing of the first arch from between the two existing openings as shown in Fig. 641 and the Plan (Fig. 642). It was usual for the two side openings to be unglazed windows rather than doors, but

Mr. Sharp, in his paper on “The Architecture of the Cistercians,”[85] points out that it was common for the three openings to be doorways, with the peculiarity seen here that they were not intended to have doors.

Of the western alley of the cloister there are considerable remains. The manse, adjoining the nave, appears to include a part of the original buildings. It is dated on the Plan “1647,” that figure being carved on a dormer; but portions of the walls are undoubtedly older, and possibly a thorough examination might reveal ancient features. To the south of the manse is the vaulted entrance to the cloister (Fig. 643), and further southward the truncated remains of the building shown in Fig. 644. The latter enters from the exterior by a narrow door, having a stair in the thickness of the wall adjoining leading to the upper floor. As already mentioned, there are extensive cellars beneath. This range of buildings was what Mr. Sharp calls the Domus Conversorum,[86] or the place for the workmen and servants of the monastery, which contained their day room on the ground floor and dormitory above.

About a quarter of a mile north from the abbey there exist the remains of a lodge, with indications of an arched “pend.” The lodge is still in use, but quite modernised. This archway was probably an entrance to the grounds of the abbey.

The most remarkable feature of the edifice is the tower which divides the east church from the west. From its architecture we may at once conclude that the upper portion is a structure of late date, probably of the sixteenth century. The interior doorway (see Fig. 636) is clearly of about that period, but some of the features of the lower story seem, as above mentioned, to point to that part being of an earlier time, probably thirteenth century.

The puzzle here is to understand how this solid tower should have been set down in the centre of the church, thus completely cutting off the western portion from the eastern, and forming two separate churches. Two possible solutions of this difficulty present themselves.

1. The two churches may have been intentionally kept separate, the western portion being the parish church and the eastern that of the monks. Such an arrangement is unusual in Scotland, but Mr. Freeman has described several churches in England where one portion belonged to the parishioners and the remainder to the monks. The chief difficulty connected with this theory is that the parish of Culross (as above mentioned) was provided with a separate parish church at a little distance away.[87]

2. The second supposition is that, in course of time, the monastery may have dwindled, and the buildings may have fallen into disrepair. The question would then arise whether it would not be better to diminish the size of the church by abandoning the western portion and erecting the tower where it stands. This might have occurred towards the close of the fifteenth century. But there are difficulties connected with this solution of the problem also. The tower shows the springing and jambs of windows on its west side, which appear to be of about the same date as itself, thus indicating the intention of continuing the structure westwards and restoring the old west church.

THE OLD PARISH CHURCH OF CULROSS, PERTHSHIRE.

A ruinous structure, situated about one mile north-west from the abbey. It is a plain oblong (Fig. 645), 71 feet long by 16 feet wide (inside), with walls about 3 feet thick, but parts of them have been recently rebuilt on the old foundations. It is thus impossible to say what the original arrangement of doors and windows may have been, only one small pointed window, which seems to be original, remaining next the south doorway. A north and south doorway face one another towards the west end, but these have evidently been inserted at a late date. Both doorways have straight lintels (Fig. 646), and these consist of ancient tombstones, carved with foliaged crosses and swords (Fig. 647).

Numerous other recumbent tombstones are found in the church, and some have been placed against the east wall when it was rebuilt. A top stone containing the socket for a cross is preserved at the east end. The south doorway has probably had a porch.

This church had apparently fallen into decay before the Reformation, for in 1633 an Act was passed making the abbey the parish church, and stating that the abbey church had been used for preaching since the Reformation, and that the church called the “Parioche Kirk, where service is not nor has been since the memory of man, is altogether ruinous, decayed, and fallen down in certain parts.”

It is still surrounded with the old burying-ground, which contains some interesting monuments. A large tombhouse has been built, like a transept, on the south side of the church. It appears to be an erection of the seventeenth century.

The Old Parish Church of Culross. Tombstones used as Door Lintels.]

BEAULY PRIORY, INVERNESS-SHIRE.

This monastery was pleasantly situated on the north side of the river Beauly, not far from the point where it falls into the sea at the head of the Beauly Frith, which forms the inner portion of the Moray Frith. The land is level and fertile, and the scenery on the river is very beautiful. The priory is about ten miles west from Inverness, and about one mile from Beauly Railway Station. It is believed to have been founded in 1230, and was thereafter endowed by Sir John Bisset of Lovat.[88] The priory was dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and was occupied by seven French monks of the Order of Valliscaulium. This was one of the strict orders established at the time of the revival of religion in the twelfth century. The mother house of the order was at Langres, in Burgundy. Of this order there were only three priories in Scotland: one at Pluscarden, in Morayshire; one at Ardchattan, in Argyle; and one at Beauly. The monks were austere in their lives, and formed a centre of devotion and enlightenment in the midst of these wild and uncivilised districts. The charter of the foundation was confirmed by Pope Gregory XI. in 1231. The priory was probably erected during the thirteenth century, but its records are few for a long period.

The Frasers succeeded the Bysets in the lands surrounding the priory, and Hugh Fraser, who was first Lord of Lovat, died in 1398. His son, Alexander, was a great benefactor of the priory, and is said to have erected a beautiful steeple of carved oak on the west gable, and put curious bells therein.

Hugh Fraser (about 1430-40) afforded means for building the north work of the priory and the chapel of the Holy Cross.

The church was soon after repaired at the expense of the superior, a natural son of Alexander of Kintail, who was there buried, A.D. 1479. His tomb is opposite that of his brother, Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of Kintail, with the date 1491. Sir Kenneth was the first of his family who was buried at Beauly, having married a daughter of Lord Lovat and obtained the Beauly property.

In 1530 Abbot Robert Reid of Kinloss received a gift of the Abbey of Beauly _in commendam_.[89] It is recorded by Ferrerius that many new buildings were erected and old ones repaired by this abbot. He is stated to have collected materials in 1537 and to have rebuilt the nave in 1540, and the structure bears evidence of his operations. He also restored the bell tower, which had been destroyed by lightning; but in 1541 that work was demolished, and the bells destroyed by a violent storm, which also did much damage throughout the country.

In 1544 Bishop Reid (being now promoted to the See of Orkney) removed the ruinous house of the prior, and erected a new and spacious house, with six vaults on the basement; but of this structure there is now no trace.

Robert Reid was succeeded, as commendator, by his nephew, Walter Reid, who was also his successor in the abbacy of Kinloss. The possessions of the Priory of Beauly were alienated, in 1571, by Walter, the new commendator, as were also those of Kinloss. The lands thus became the property of the Lovat family. On the forfeiture of Lord Lovat, in 1516, the abbey reverted to the Crown.

The priory consisted of the church, with a cloister to the south, which was, in all probability, surrounded by the usual monastic buildings; but the latter, including the spacious prior’s house erected by Bishop Reid, have almost entirely disappeared. The walls of the church (Fig. 648) survive, but even these have been sadly abused. The buttresses have all been torn down, apparently for the sake of the freestone dressings, and the tracery of the windows has been greatly demolished.

The church consists of a single long aisleless chamber, a little over 150 feet in length by 24 feet 6 inches in width (within the walls). The eastern part formed the presbytery and choir, and the western part the nave, but there is no architectural feature to mark the divisions. About the place where a transept might have been there are two projections, which break the long line of the exterior. These projecting chambers or chapels are shut off from the main church by solid walls containing doorways and monuments. They thus formed separate chapels, or one of them may have been a sacristy. The architecture of the choir and presbytery (Fig. 649) is remarkably fine, and is of first pointed character. Although in this remote region its date may probably be later than usual, it can scarcely be, as Mr. Muir suggests, so late as the beginning of the fourteenth century.

The details are very simple, the jambs and arches having plain splays. The caps of the shafts adjoining the windows in the interior are moulded and have round abaci, but the shafts, which were detached in the early manner, have disappeared. The arrangement of the arches is different on the two opposite sides. The east window was very wide, and, doubtless, was filled with tracery, which had several mullions. This may have been a later addition; the tracery has entirely disappeared. The lower portions of the buttresses of the choir have been rebuilt within recent years, probably in consequence of an agreement entered into between Lord Lovat and the Crown, whereby the former undertakes to keep the buildings in good repair.

The most striking feature of the nave is the row of triangular pointed windows running along the south side (Fig. 650). These have evidently been curtailed in height in the design, so as to admit of the roof of the cloister walk resting against the south wall of the church, the corbels for its support being yet visible. The west end of this wall has evidently had domestic buildings of a high and substantial character erected against it, some fragments of which still remain, showing a fireplace, portions of a staircase, &c. (see Fig. 650).

The western façade bears the marks of Bishop Reid’s workmanship, and is no doubt part of what is meant to be attributed to him when it is said that he rebuilt the nave. The triangular south windows above mentioned, and the two light pointed windows on the south side of the nave, are undoubtedly much earlier than his date, which was about 1540-50, but other parts of the walls of the nave may have been re-erected by him when he restored the west end. The latter (see Fig. 650) is beyond doubt his work. The doorway in the centre, the arch of which is semicircular, contains the monogram I.H.S. on one of the label terminations, while the other drip stone shows two hands and two feet, with a heart in the centre (Fig. 651), emblems of the Passion. The arch of the doorway is round; but this, as we have seen elsewhere, is a common feature in Scottish work of all dates, and occurs especially often in late work.

The upper part of the west wall contains three pointed lancet windows, and is an example of the revival of early features in late work. Some of the windows in the side walls are of similar form, and are probably of the same date. The sill of the central window in the west end is kept high, so as to admit of a shallow ogee-headed niche for a figure over the entrance door. The figure may have represented the Baptist, but the niche is now empty. On a panel on the sill are Bishop Reid’s initials, R. R., and his arms, a stag’s head (see Fig. 651).

The part of the church which projects to the north measures 25 feet by 22 feet 6 inches internally. It has been vaulted in two bays, the vaults springing from corbels in the walls; part of the vault still remains. This chamber is said to have been the sacristy. It has a turret at the north-west angle, containing a stair to the roof. In a recess in the wall which divides this chapel from the choir lies the tomb (abovementioned) of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie of Kintail.

We have seen that the “north work” was erected at the expense of Hugh Fraser (1430-40), and the style of this chapel corresponds with that date.

Drip Stone and Panel.