Chapter XII: Part 12

cellars of the western range of buildings. The walls of this range are fairly entire along their whole length for a height of 7 or 8 feet. The south end wall is also standing for about the same height. The length of this range from north to south is about 97 feet 7 inches. It is probable that the adjoining cellar to the south is entire, but the place is so covered with vegetation that little can be ascertained. The doorway entering from the cloister to the north-west cellar is undoubtedly of an early date. Not much of it remains, but enough to enable the Plan (Fig. 1466) to be made. The nook shaft, a fragment of the capital of which exists, is not later than the beginning of the thirteenth century.

The high gable adjoining (Fig. 1467) is certainly in part at least of a later date; the upper part and the chimney, with its corbelled cope, being of the sixteenth or seventeenth century. On the first floor there has been a large fireplace, the flue of which is still partly visible (see Fig. 1467). A part of the north wall of the cloister stands near the gable. This was part of the south wall of the church (see Plan), and the greater portion of the church would thus be situated outside the present enclosing dyke on the north side.

There are indications at the north-east corner of the surviving gable (at A on Plan) of a wall having extended northwards, which was probably the west wall of the church. At the junction of the south wall of the church and the wall of the western range, and at the height of about 15 feet above the ground, there still exists the corner corbel for supporting the roof of the cloister walk. We can remember when there were other corbels along the church wall also, but they have now disappeared. The part of this wall now standing is in a very precarious state. It evidently extended eastwards for about 120 feet, when it met a cross wall, now represented by a mass of rough masonry about 7 or 8 feet square (see Plan). This mass may represent one of the great piers of a central tower. There are other pieces of masonry throughout the enclosure with numerous trenches and mounds, but, owing to the rank vegetation, it is impossible to make a more satisfactory Plan than the one now given. If the place were cleared out and a judicious search made, considerable remains would doubtless be found.

The average length of the enclosure as it now stands is about 210 feet.

INNERPEFFRAY CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.

The structure of this church is still entire, although the building is now only used as a place of burial. It is situated on a high knoll overlooking the river Earn, about four miles south-east from Crieff. Near the church on the bank of the river stands the ruined Castle of Innerpeffray, elsewhere described and illustrated.[207] Close to the west end of the church is the Library of Innerpeffray (shown in Fig. 1469), founded by David, Lord Madderty, in 1691. It contains a fine collection of early printed books, and is open to the public and is well worth visiting.

The church (Fig. 1468) is divided, by modern walls, into three parts. It is a long narrow building, measuring, internally, about 76 feet in length by about 21 feet 4 inches in width. There was a sacristy on the north side near the east end, its width and position being indicated by the

absence of the moulded wall-head plinth (Fig. 1469), which runs round the whole side walls except at this part. The door between the church and sacristy still remains, but is built up. On the sacristy side it has a rough flat arch. To the east of this door there is, on the exterior, a splayed aperture about 2 feet 9 inches wide (see Plan) by about 2 feet high, and about the same height above the ground. There is no trace of it inside, the walls being plastered. This may have been what is called a squint,

being situated in the same relative position as those at Seton and other churches.

The Church of Innerpeffray is peculiar, from having what resembles a chancel arch, situated at a distance of about 7 feet 6 inches from the west end. This arch (Fig. 1470) is round and about 14 feet 2 inches wide. It has a splayed squint about 2 feet wide on the south side, as shown on the sketch. It is difficult to give a satisfactory explanation of this arch, but it seems to have formed a vestibule in connection with the stair leading to an apartment on the upper floor. The archway appears to have been fitted with some kind of timber screen, which, if it was a close one, would help to explain the object of the squint.

There is a room on the first floor reached by the wheel stair in the

Lintel of Eastmost Window.]

north-west angle. This room, as it now exists, is of later construction than the church, and is not older than the seventeenth century. The stair, however, is part of the original construction, and is believed to have given access to a belfry on the west wall, as well as to the room which doubtless existed from the first over the vestibule, and which (see Fig. 1469) was provided with a fireplace and a window in the west gable.

The ceiling of the existing room (see Fig. 1470) cuts across the archway in an awkward manner. Doubtless the original room was at a slightly higher level, so as not to interfere with the arch. The ceiling and floor of the room are in a very ruinous state, the greater part having fallen. The ceiling is painted in bright colours. It has a figure of the sun in the centre with rolling clouds around, and till lately there was a complete figure of an angel on one side, of which only slight indications now remain. On

Innerpeffray Church.

Jamb Moulding of South Door.]

the south side the ceiling has entirely fallen, and with it the figure of an angel corresponding to the one on the north side, and soon the whole thing will come to the ground.

The church, in its original state, had three doorways, one in the centre of the west end and one in the south wall, the latter being secured (see Plan) by a sliding bar. Both these doors have bead and hollow mouldings. The third door was in the north wall and is now built up. There are six windows in the south wall, the two westmost ones adjoining the great arch being markedly narrower than the others, and having evidently some connection with the west arch. These windows have all double splays on the exterior, except the eastmost one (Fig. 1471), which has a large quarter hollow moulding continued round the lintel, on which occurs a shield with the Drummond arms.

All the windows and doors have square lintels, with the mouldings or splays of the jambs continued round the lintels. The mode of securing the side door has already been referred to; all the windows are likewise strongly secured with iron interlacing bars.

Fig. 1472 shows the jamb moulding of the south doorway. Over this doorway there is a small pointed opening (see Fig. 1469), probably intended to throw light on the rood screen which stood near it, as is evident from the corbels for carrying it, three of which still exist on the south side (see Plan) and one on the opposite side, the others having been removed to admit a monument. On the north side two of these corbels are placed (Fig. 1473), one on each side of one of the windows, which, as will be seen, has been converted into a doorway to give access to the central burial vault. Alongside the south door there is the stoup (see Figs. 1473 and 1474). It is of plain design, with a slightly projecting bracket. The piscina or small recess at the east end is quite plain, not even having a splay.

A very interesting feature of this church is the altar, which is still standing against the east wall (see Plan). It has been rough cast over, so that it cannot be examined thoroughly. It is needless to say that few ancient altars remain in Scotland, one of the best preserved ones being at

Innerpeffray Church.

Stoup.]

the Church of Stobhall, about twenty miles distant, a view of the exterior of which church is subjoined (Fig. 1475).[208] Stobhall and Innerpeffray churches were both built by the same family of the Drummonds, who adhered to the ancient faith, and successfully defied the power of the reformed Church to cast down their monuments of idolatry, as altars and other appendages of the ancient Church were termed.

The east gable at Innerpeffray is quite plain, with the exception of a small niche, which probably held a figure. Besides the painted ceiling already referred to, there are considerable traces of painting throughout the interior, particularly on the east wall. Several consecration crosses are also painted on various parts of the church.

From what has been said, it will be seen that this is a church of very considerable interest and some almost unique peculiarities, and it is unfortunate that it should be divided up with unseemly walls, and that no effort should be made to preserve the painted work, of which so little remains in Scotland. Were it put in the same condition as the Church of Stobhall and as well cared for, it would be a circumstance for which all who are interested in Scottish church architecture would be grateful.

This church, which was a Collegiate one, was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and was founded by Sir John Drummond, the first of Innerpeffray, in 1508. In the account which follows (kindly supplied by Mrs. Birnie, keeper of the Library) it appears that a church existed here in the previous century, and indeed it is stated[209] that it is mentioned as early as 1342. The existing building, however, was doubtless erected at the period above mentioned.

“In 1483 the Church of Innerpeffray must have been in existence, as the patronage is then conveyed by the Mercers to Lord Oliphant.

“One reason for considering the foundation of considerable antiquity is the fact that the market held on the day of dedication (Lady-day) was one of the great marts and one of the great holidays of Strathearn. (The market was removed to Crieff about eighty years ago.) Institutions so popular as this are generally found to have their origin in a remote antiquity.... Its proximity also to the meeting point of the four Roman roads, from Ardoch and the south, from Comrie and Loch Earn on the west, from the Sma’ Glen on the north, and from Perth on the east, made it a suitable centre.... Convenience of access and the popularity of Lady Fair appear to confirm the remote date of the church, &c.

“John Freebairn, minister and preacher of the Gospel at Madderty (1620-1657), who was connected with the Drummonds by marriage, in a genealogical history of the House of Drummond, leaves on record the following:--‘John, first Lord Drummond, having re-edified the Chapel of Innerpeffray from the ground and erected it into a college for some few prebendaries to pray for requiems for him and his house, ordained it to be their burying-place for all time coming, and being near 80 years of age he framed one of the most material and perfyte testaments that ever I saw and syne closed his eyes and time togidder and was most honourably interred at Innerpeffray, in the year 1519.’

“On 4th June 1507 the King confirmed in Mortmain the charter of John, Lord Drummond, by which (for the souls of the King and Queen, for his own soul and that of Elizabeth Lindesay, his wife, and the umquhile Margaret Drummond, his daughter, &c.) he granted as a pure free almsgift to four chaplains, to celebrate the divine offices for ever at the four altars in the church, dedicated in honour of the Blessed Virgin, of Innerpeffray, an annual income of forty marks from his lands of Innerpeffray and Dunfallys, with houses, residences, and gardens to be marked off and built for each, with the right to each of them of obtaining necessary fuel in the Common Mure of Innerpeffray with four sums for grasses and for one horse. In 1508 occurs the name of Walter Drummond, the first Provost of Innerpeffray. Here was buried the second Master of Drummond, who died before his grandfather, and left an infant son, David, afterwards second Lord Drummond....

“The King, on 20th October 1581, confirmed the charter of William Lindesay, provost or principal perpetual chaplain of the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Innerpeffray, in which with consent of Patrick, Lord Drummond, patron of the said provostry, he demised to James Drummond of Innerpeffray six acres of land, the Smithlands, &c. &c., reserving to the said provost one chamber (camera) only when he should stay there.[210]... Four roundles or towers stood one at each corner of the churchyard, and tradition says that these formed the residences of the four chaplains.”

KINFAUNS CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.

This edifice is situated about four miles east from Perth, and continued to be the parish church till about forty years ago, when it was abandoned and allowed to fall into ruin. It is now roofless and the walls are very much reduced, except the south aisle, which contained the seats of the family of the Greys of Kinfauns and their burial-place. When the church was dismantled a painting was found on the plaster inside the west wall, but unfortunately no drawing was made of it, and it has now entirely disappeared.

The church (Fig. 1476) measures about 65 feet long by 18 feet 2 inches wide within the walls, and is probably a structure of the fifteenth century. It has been considerably altered during Presbyterian times, new windows and doors having been broken through the walls. The south doorway is original, and is round arched with a bead moulding towards the outside,

and lintelled on the inside with a stone slab having a cross carved on it, evidently a companion stone to the one shown in Fig. 1477. This cross, which wants part of its length, measures 5 feet 11 inches long by 1 foot 7 inches in width at top, tapering to 1 foot 4 inches at lower end by 10 inches thick. It is well wrought with sloping sides, having the form of the cross completed, as seen by the rounded disc rising out of the slope on each side. There was probably a south doorway opposite the north doorway, adjoining the stoup shown in the south wall. The eastmost window on the south side is also original; it is square lintelled and has the usual wide splay all round.

The most interesting feature in the church is the arched recess in the north wall (see Fig. 1477), which was probably an Easter sepulchre. It was only discovered after the church became a ruin, having previously been covered over. It has thus been well preserved, except that the projecting crockets along the top of the hood moulding, as well as most of the hood itself, have been chipped away, so as to make an even surface at the wall. It measures about 6 feet 6 inches long by 3 feet in depth, and about 4 feet high. It has well wrought mouldings, which die against

a rounded jamb, supported on a short shaft having a very simple cap and base. The floor of the recess was slightly raised above the floor of the church. The details of the mouldings show that this is a late design, probably sixteenth century.

The “Gray Aisle” on the south side of the church is roofed with a late example of groined vaulting (Fig. 1478), and it is curious to observe how the tradition of this kind of work survived to a period when the style of art practised throughout the country was of the kind represented by the panels on the east and west walls. There are three panels on these

walls. The central one on the west side (see Fig. 1478) contains the Lindsay arms, as shown. On the east side there are two coats (Fig. 1479) containing the Charteris arms. On one of the panels of that side is the following inscription, which gives the name of the founder of the aisle:--

]

“John Chartrvs and Jannat Chisolim In ovr tym buildit this,” and on the other is the inscription, “George Chartus sonn and har to the sad John and deppartit. Bot suecs/nuvn” (without succession). The date over the entrance door is 1598.

MEIGLE CHURCH FONT, PERTHSHIRE.

The old country town of Meigle is situated in the middle of Strathmore, not far from Alyth Junction on the railway between Perth and Forfar.

The church stood in the middle of the village, and was rebuilt about the beginning of this century. When the old building was demolished, a font was dug out of the rubbish and erected on a pedestal in the minister’s garden. It remained there for a time, but when an Episcopal chapel was built, the font was removed into it, and is now in use there. It is one of the best specimens of an old font now remaining in Scotland,

and it evidently belongs to a late period, probably sixteenth century.

The font is octagonal and made of one stone. It is 2 feet 3 inches in diameter, and the basin measures 1 foot 9 inches across. Each of the sides of the octagon contains an arch with carved crockets, and the angles are marked by small buttresses and pinnacles. The carved work has been very spirited, but is now much damaged. In each arch is a bas-relief containing emblems and scenes connected with the Passion.

Fig. 1480 shows three sides, which represent--(1) the Crucifixion, (2) the seamless coat and the scourges and dice, (3) the Resurrection. Fig. 1481 shows--(4) the Cross and crown of thorns, (5) the pierced hands, feet, and heart (showing the five wounds of the Passion), (6) the pillar with the rope twisted round it, and the cock on the top. The seventh side contains the ladder and the spear, reed, and sponge arranged saltierwise, and the eighth the three nails and the hammer.

These sculptures are all well preserved and well executed, but whether of native workmanship or not it is impossible to say.

METHVEN COLLEGIATE CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.[212]

Of the Church of Methven, consecrated by Bishop David de Bernham of St. Andrews on 25th August 1247, nothing now remains.

The Collegiate Church or Provostry of Methven, as it is generally called, was founded in 1433 by Walter Stewart, the aged Earl of Athole. Before this time, King James i. had conferred the liferent of the Earldom of Strathearn upon the Earl of Athole, so that he was the great lord of the district, and was, besides, a son of Robert ii. Three years after the founding of this church he suffered a terrible death, for his supposed connivance in the assassination of James i. in Perth.

What now remains of the church is the north transept, the north wall and gable of which are shown in Fig. 1482. In the _Edinburgh Architectural Association Sketch Book_[213] a plan of the church is given without any information as to how it was ascertained. Assuming it to be correct, it shows a cross church, having a chancel 40 feet long by 24 feet wide over the walls, with north and south transepts, and a nave of the same width as the chancel, extending for an indefinite length. The north transept extended from the north wall of the church 22 feet, and has a width over the walls of 21 feet, with walls 3 feet thick. The end window, which is the principal feature of the structure, is 6 feet 3 inches wide in the daylight; it has three lights, and the tracery, which is of a flowing pattern, is placed, as usual at this period, in the centre of the thickness of the wall. The mouldings of the jambs, which consist of a double splay, are stopped at the springing of the arch by a continuous impost moulding, and the arch mouldings are of a different section. On the east side of the window there is a bracket with a canopy over for a statue, possibly that of St. Marnoch, the patron saint of Methven.

In a panel on the west side of the window there are traceable the lion rampant of the royal arms, surmounted by a crown.

The gabled crowsteps with which the gable is coped form one of the best examples of that feature, which, however, is a rare one in the churches of this period. The cross on the apex is modern.

The collegiate church was in use as the parish church till 1783, and for long after the Reformation the Presbyterian minister was called “Provest of Methven, and Chaplin of Auldbar,” the Church of Auldbar having been granted to Methven on its foundation in 1433.

MONCRIEFF CHAPEL, PERTHSHIRE.

A ruined chapel situated in the grounds adjoining the mansion house of Moncrieff, about three miles south-east of Perth. It is closely hemmed in with trees and is completely ivy clad, and measures in the inside about 34 feet 6 inches long by 13 feet wide. The building (Fig. 1483) is a pre-Reformation

church, but has evidently been used and altered in Presbyterian times, and within the last few years it has been enlarged with an apse and transepts, so as to form a burial-place. Most of the stones for this purpose were taken from the ruins of the splendid old bridge which

Stoup.]

crossed the Earn about a mile distant at Bridge of Earn.

There is a north aisle about 7 feet 8 inches wide by 7 feet 3 inches long, which is entered by a round arch, and is lighted by a window 14 inches wide,

Apex Stone.]

which has grooves for glass. The gable of this aisle has crowsteps. The doorway is in the south wall, and adjoining it on the west is a stoup (Fig. 1484) with a pointed arch cut out of a single stone, and in the north wall there is the usual ambry. There are two windows in the south wall and one in the west gable. This gable has the usual set-off at about 5 feet above the ground, and at the ground level in this wall there is a wide relieving arch, apparently intended to give scope for a tree root. The skews of this gable are finely wrought, and the apex stone, now lying inside (Fig. 1485), has the edge fillet continued as a saltier on the face of the ridge roll.

The belfry, entirely concealed by ivy, occupies an unusual position on the east gable. All the openings are lintelled, and appear to have been altered in Presbyterian times.

WAST-TOWN CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.

A ruined structure situated in the centre of its churchyard, in the decayed hamlet of Wast-Town, at a distance of about two miles northwards from Errol Railway Station, and not far from the old Castle of Kinnaird. The church (Fig. 1486) has consisted of a nave and chancel, the former about 43 feet long by 15 feet 2 inches wide inside, having walls from 3 to 4 feet thick. The chancel was apparently of the same width as the nave,

but it has been entirely demolished, and the chancel arch has been built up. This was doubtless done to make the church suitable as a preaching station after the Reformation. There are a north and a south doorway, the former square-headed with a splay, the latter (Fig. 1488) round arched with a bead on edge all round. In the south side there are two windows with square tops and a bead moulding, and one window in the north side having a cusped and pointed top, as shown in Fig. 1487. This window has a moulding on the outside consisting of a hollow, wrought on a broad splay. All the windows are finished on the inside in a manner similar to the one shown, the width of their daylight being about 13 inches. There are three openings through the walls at the west end (see Fig. 1486) about 7 inches square and about 4 feet above the ground, the object of which is not very clear, and they are now considerably ruined. Possibly they are putlog holes.

The chancel arch, which is 9 feet 9 inches wide, is in two orders (Fig. 1489), each splayed on edge. The wall is 2 feet 4 inches thick, and the

Belfry.]

arch springs from wide spreading caps, which either rested on shafts, now removed, or only on corbels. This cannot at present be determined,

Wast-Town Church.

Chancel Arch.]

owing to the building up of the archway. The detail of this cap or corbel is somewhat novel and peculiar in design.

There is a plain belfry (Fig. 1490) on the west gable.

The date of this church is probably in the sixteenth century.

MONUMENT IN RENFREW CHURCH.

This monument is placed in the modern parish church of Renfrew. It consists of a recumbent effigy resting on a sculptured tomb, and enclosed within an arched canopy. The inscription round the arch in Gothic raised letters is as follows:--“Hic iacet Johēs Ros miles quo(n)dam dominus de Hawkehede et Marioria uxor sua orate pro ipsis qui obit.”

Crawford mentions in his _History of Renfrewshire_, p. 66, that Sir Josias (he means Sir John) Ross of Halkhead married “Marjory Mure, a daughter of Caldwel,” and that their statues “as big as the life, with their coats of arms over them,” are carved on the monument. The arms of the lady are not there now. Crawford states that this was “the first of the family who laid the foundation of that hereditary honour, which his successors have ever since enjoyed, who, being a favourite of King James IV., was by that prince created a baron of this realm, with the title of Lord Ross of Hawkhead and Melvil, about the year 1492.”[214] It is to be observed, however, that the arms on the tomb are simply those of Ross, whereas the arms of Melville were quartered with those of Ross after the marriage of Sir John Ross with the heiress of Melville in the time of Robert II.

The monument (Fig. 1491) has been partly restored, the shafts at the sides with their bases and caps are modern, but they probably follow the original design. The mouldings of the arch, which are thickly coated with paint, appear to be original. The effigies, of which there are two, husband and wife, with the table on which they rest, remain untouched.

The tomb is 8 feet 6½ inches long by 2 feet 6 inches high, but the base is probably buried beneath the floor. The front is richly sculptured in a somewhat rude but vigorous manner, and is divided into eleven compartments. Each of the end compartments contains an angel playing on a musical instrument, namely, a violin and a viol. The other nine compartments contain shields supported by angels, with the following armorial bearings, as described by Mr. W. R. Macdonald:--

1. A chevron chequé between three hunting horns, for Semple.

2. A pale, for Erskine.

3. A griffin segreant, for Lauder of Hatton.

4. Quarterly, 1st and 4th--A lion rampant within a double tressure
flory counterflory, for Scotland, as on No. 5; 2nd and 3rd--A fesse
chequé (with four rows of panes), for Stewart, as on No. 6.

5. A lion rampant within a double tressure flory counterflory, for
Scotland.

6. A fesse chequé (also with four rows of panes), for Stewart.

7. A bend, for----.

8. A chevron chequé between three water budgets, for Ross of
Halket.

9. A chevron chequé between a hunting horn in dexter chief, a water
budget in sinister chief, and a demi hunting horn combined with a
demi water budget in base, being the shields 1 and 8 dimidiated,
but showing no dividing line.

On the knight’s breast a chevron between three water budgets, for Ross of Halket, as in No. 8.

The Church of Renfrew was granted by David I. as a prebend of Glasgow, and is believed to have stood on the present site.

In 1557 mention is made of the chaplainry of St. Christopher in the Lord Ross’s Aisle on the south side of the Church of Renfrew. The monument is situated on the south side of the present church. The Chapel of St. Christopher was probably connected with the ferry across the Clyde.

THE CHURCHES OF HOUSTON, ST. FILLAN’S, AND KILMALCOLM, RENFREWSHIRE.

These three churches lie to the north-west of Paisley, in a straight line, about four miles apart. The Church of Houston is modern, and the only thing belonging to the ancient church which formerly stood there is shown in Fig. 1492, being the recumbent figures of one of the Houston family and his wife. The monument which contained these statues is entirely gone, and they now lie in a lighted closet, built for their reception, beside the new church. The Houston arms are carved on the knight’s armour (a fesse chequé between three martlets). The figures probably date from the fifteenth century, and are believed to represent Sir Patrick Houston of that Ilk, who died in 1450, and his wife, Agnes Campbell, who died in 1456. Crawford states[215] that Sir Patrick, departing this life 1450, was buried in the Chapel of Houston, where there is a fair monument erected to the memory of him and his wife, with this inscription:--“Hic jacet Patricius Houstoun, de Eodem, miles, qui obiit anno MCCCCL; et D. Maria Colquhoun sponsa dicti Domini Johannis quae obiit MCCCCLVI.”

The parish of KILFILLAN or KILLALLAN was incorporated with Houston in 1760, and the church dedicated to St. Fillan has probably been in a state of ruin since about that time. It stands in a beautiful hollow in an elevated situation overlooking the valley of Strathgryfe, midway between Houston and Kilmalcolm. The walls are fairly entire, but without the gables, and are densely covered with ivy. The masonry shows that they are of considerable age, if indeed they are not of the Norman period. While this may be so, all the openings are of seventeenth century work, and the doorway at the west end of the south wall is dated 1635. About that time the openings were probably changed into their present forms, and the pre-Reformation character of the building was altered to suit Presbyterian

ideas. The old plan (Fig. 1493), however, resembles many of the ancient churches in its long proportions, and in having the north and south doors

opposite each other. Adjoining the church and churchyard there still exists a quaint old Scottish mansion house of seventeenth century style, which may probably have been the residence of the clergymen.

KILMALCOLM.--The church here was dedicated to King Malcolm III., who along with his wife, Queen Margaret, were commemorated as saints. A fragment of the east wall of a pre-Reformation church remains, with three plain lancet windows, which may possibly belong to the thirteenth century. It forms a part of the parish church. The above three churches, along with all the others in Strathgryfe (except Inchinnon), were comprehended in the grant which Walter, the son of Alan, made to the Abbey of Paisley in 1164.

PARISH CHURCH, SELKIRK.

Of the important churches which existed here in the twelfth century no trace now remains. The parish church was in a state of ruin at the beginning of the sixteenth century, when a new one was built, which in turn followed its predecessors, and in the year 1747 another church was erected, the ruins of which still exist.

The following description of the church taken down in 1747 occurs in _Our Journall into Scotland_, p. 15.[216] “They have a very pretty church where the hammermen and other tradesmen have several seats mounted above the rest, the gentlemen below the tradesmen in the ground seats; the women sit in the high end of the church, with us the choir, there is one neat vaulted porch in it, my Lord Bucplewgh’s (Buccleuch) seat is the highest in the church, and he hath a proper (private) passage into it in at the outside of the vaulted porch. On a corner of the outside of the choir is fastened an iron chain with a thing they call the Jogges,” &c. “The form of it is a cross house, the steeple fair, handsomely tiled as the Royal Exchange at London, it having at each corner four pyramidal turrets, they call them pricks; my Lord Maxfield’s house at Langham being of the form of the steeple. The church was tiled upon close joined boards and not lats” (laths).

The grave slab shown in Fig. 1494 is built into one of the walls of the existing ruins. It is of red sandstone, and measures 6 feet 4 inches high by 2 feet 5 inches wide. It is very much mutilated, and from its exposed situation and the friableness of the stone, it is rapidly decaying, and unless some proper means are taken to preserve it, will at no distant date be obliterated. The figure represents that of a stout yeoman with hands folded on the breast, having a belt round his waist. On a shield at his feet is a bend, any other charges which may have been on it being obliterated. The inscription in raised letters is more than half gone, but from the first syllable of the place of Aikwood being still legible, and in

conjunction with the arms, it is supposed by Mr. T. Craig Brown[217] to commemorate one of the Scots of Harden, who lived at Aikwood or Oakwood, a tower still standing not far from Selkirk. The stone probably dates from about the early part of the sixteenth century.

The following figures represent three stoups in the possession of Mr. Craig Brown, Selkirk. Fig. 1495 shows the five sides of one of these. On one face is a lion rampant, and on the adjoining space to the right is a human face, the mouth of which forms an opening for emptying the basin. On the space to the left is carved the figure of a buck or hart. The other two faces are broken. On one is the hind quarters of an ox having a long tail and cloven feet, and on the other the forequarters and head of a hare in full flight.

The lion may be heraldic or it may have a symbolic meaning. The hart is probably an allusion to the beginning of the xlii. psalm--“As the hart panteth after the water brooks.” This verse is inscribed on a font of the eleventh century, at Potterne, Wilts,[218] and the figure of a hart is of frequent occurrence on Celtic and Norman work, where, as is now generally

believed, it has a symbolic meaning. The ox and hare, being also animals referred to in Scripture, are probably to be considered in the same category. This example is from Peebles, and was given to Mr. Brown by a gentleman who believes it was found at some ruined building there. It measures about 13 inches across on top by 9¾ inches high, and the bowl is 4 inches deep.

Fig. 1496 shows two views of a stoup, which is square, with the angles cut off, converting it into an unequal-sided octagon. It is decorated in a very curious manner with signs and letters of which we can give no explanation. It was found built into an old house at Selkirk when it was taken down many years ago. A mason took possession of it and used it for a flower pot, and chiselled a hole in the bottom. The fragment measures about 14⅝ by 16 inches. The basin is 11 inches over by 10 inches deep.

Both of these specimens are cut out of red sandstone.

The third stoup (Fig. 1497) is cut out of hard blue whinstone, and has an unfinished appearance. It is decorated with shields, some having an incised cross, and with foliage of a Gothic character. The plan on the under side is in the form of a Greek cross. It measures about 18 inches in diameter by 10½ inches high, with a basin 11 inches wide by 9 inches deep.

WIGTON CHURCH, WIGTONSHIRE.[219]

An ivy clad ruin standing in the old churchyard of Wigton. Only the east end (Fig. 1498) with a considerable portion of the south wall and a small portion of the north wall remain. The first measures 21 feet 2 inches wide on the inside, and the south wall extends for a length of about 55 feet.

Mr. Muir writes of this church as follows:[220]--“By the remains of a string course and other bits of minor detail at the east end, it would appear that the building has been originally of first pointed date, though perhaps still earlier features were destroyed at the various repairs which it underwent in modern times. One or two objects--The stump of a cross, and a small baptismal font of tapering form” (which seems to have now disappeared)--“were to all appearance Norman, and very likely, therefore, the earlier portion of the primitive structure was of twelfth century date.” The church was dedicated to St. Machutus, and belonged to the Priory of Whithorn.

A ruined building of late date, with walls about 7 feet high, projects about 17 feet out from the south wall by about 23 feet in width outside measure.

CHURCHES OF THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES.

The ecclesiastical architecture of the mediæval period terminated at the introduction of the Reformation in 1560, but during the latter half of the sixteenth and the greater part of the seventeenth century a number of churches were erected which show some attempt to maintain or revive the style of earlier times. This tendency was doubtless encouraged by the strenuous effort which was made, under James I. and Charles I. and II., to establish the Episcopal forms of Church government and service in Scotland. These forms being contrary to the desire of the Presbyterians, who comprised the great body of the people, gave rise to two opposing parties. The party favourable to the Episcopal form of religion supported the erection of churches and the maintenance of the worship as nearly as possible after the old model, while the Presbyterians and Puritans discouraged everything which savoured of the ancient faith, whether in buildings or services. The result was that during the century which followed the Reformation there were two styles of ecclesiastical structures erected in the country, one style showing some reverence for the house of God in its form and decoration, and in the appropriateness of the divine service; while the other seemed to be designed, both in its buildings and forms of worship, to be as far removed as possible from any outward or visible sign of inward sweetness or grace.

It is proposed to conclude this work with some examples of the different styles of churches erected during the above period.

A number of specimens have already been given in a former work.[221]

These churches were introduced into a work on the domestic architecture of the country, in order to illustrate the influence of the domestic style on the ecclesiastical architecture of this period. Many of these edifices were, therefore, only partially illustrated, and it has been thought desirable to treat some of them more fully in this book, so as to complete the illustration and description of their architecture.

The examples which are now given will amply illustrate the remaining specimens which still survive of this somewhat heterogeneous epoch.

Most of the churches of the seventeenth century are either very poor imitations of Gothic work or tasteless examples of plain walls, while a few contain the germs of what might have been wrought into a picturesque style, founded on the domestic architecture of the period. Such, for example, are the churches of Stirling (west end), Anstruther Easter, and Pittenweem.

Several of the monuments of the period are also given.

The following examples are arranged in alphabetical order.

ABERDOUR, ABERDEENSHIRE.

A village about eight miles west of Fraserburgh. In the _Book of Deer_ it is written, “Columcille and Drostan son of Cosgrach his pupil came

from I as God had shown to them unto Abbordo-boir and Bede the Pict was mormaer of Buchan before them, and it was he that gave them that

Aberdour.

Jamb of Arch to Aisle.]

town in freedom for ever from Mormaer and tosech.” In these words a scribe, writing in the eleventh or twelfth century, tells of the planting of Christianity in the North about A.D. 580. It is probable that the clerics tarried at Aberdour for a time, and founded a monastery on the land which had been granted to them.[222] In later times the parish church was dedicated to St. Drostan, and in 1178 and 1318 there are notices of its erection into a prebend of St. Machar’s Cathedral.[223] In 1557 there is a mandate

by William, Bishop of Aberdeen, for the institution of Master Robert Carnegy in the canonry and prebend of the Rectory of Aberdour. Again, in 1599, there is a seisin of Robert Ramsay in the kirk lands and glebe with the vicar’s manse of Aberdour. The existing ruins (Fig. 1499) are not earlier than the sixteenth century, and consist of a nave 70 feet long by 21 feet 3 inches wide, and a south aisle 30 feet 4 inches long by 17 feet 4 inches wide, all outside measure. The

Font.]

walls (Fig. 1500) are still tolerably entire, but are fast crumbling away. The west end of the nave has been partitioned off into two burial vaults, as also is the aisle. The arch between the nave and aisle is round, with an impost moulding (Fig. 1501) at the springing of the arch. The arch and jambs are chamfered, the chamfer terminating on a splayed base. In the north wall of the nave is the round arched mural tomb shown in Fig. 1502.

The font is still in existence. It is quite plain and octagonal, being 2 feet in diameter by about 2 feet 2 inches high. After the abandonment of the church the font appears to have been built into the wall, and to have had a sundial carved on its lower end (Fig. 1503).

ANSTRUTHER, EASTER AND WESTER, FIFESHIRE.

These adjacent towns form one of the very interesting group of ancient seaports and places of commerce on the northern shore of the Frith of Forth. Anstruther is divided into two portions by the little river Dreel, which formed the harbour of Anstruther Wester, while Easter Anstruther extends in a wide crescent along the coast, and has a larger harbour of its own.

Anstruther Wester belonged to the Priory of Pittenweem, and the parish church was dedicated to St. Nicolas. The town obtained a charter from the monastery in 1549, and another in 1554.[224] The church is now modernised, but the old tower (Fig. 1504) is a fair specimen of the keep-like structures so often erected in connection with Scottish churches in the sixteenth century.

Anstruther Easter was, before the Reformation, in the parish of Kilrenny, and was disjoined from it by the General Assembly, with the consent of the bailies and council of the town, in 1639. In 1640 Anstruther Easter was erected into a separate parish, and the reason assigned in the Act was “the Burgh being a part of the parish of Kilrenny a mile distant of deep evil way in winter and rainy times.”[225]

A proposal to build a church at Anstruther Easter had thus been in contemplation for some time, and in 1636 an agreement was come to regarding it between Mr. Colin Adams, the first minister of the parish, and the bailies and council. The new church was erected, and “ten years later a steeple was added after a Dutch model.”[226]

The arrangement of the Plan (Fig. 1505) and the design of the tower seem, however, to contradict the latter statement. The debased but picturesque architecture of the tower (Fig. 1506) so strongly resembles the other Scottish church towers of the period as to render its origin beyond dispute. It combines the ornamental treatment of the upper part with the plain features of the lower portion, so usual in the castles of the time; and the classic balustrade and the gabled termination of the staircase recall similar domestic features of Scottish castellated architecture very common in the seventeenth century, both in churches and houses.

The church measures, externally, 92 feet in length by 41 feet in breadth. The entrance doorway leads into a simple barrel-vaulted passage 9 feet wide. This originally opened directly into the body of the church, having a staircase to the gallery on the south side and a small room or vestry on the north side. The body of the church is of the usual oblong form (Fig. 1507) and is lighted with windows, which, from their mullions and round arches, retain a slightly ecclesiastical appearance. This is chiefly striking in the large east window. There were originally two doorways in the south wall, but one has been built up.

Altogether, this church, the date of which is known, forms a complete and characteristic example of the Scottish ecclesiastical architecture of the earlier part of the seventeenth century.[227]

ST. MARY’S PARISH CHURCH, AUCHTERHOUSE, FORFARSHIRE.

Chancel Arch.]

The village of Kirkton or Auchterhouse is situated about five miles north of Dundee.

Section of Chancel Arch Mouldings.]

Jamb of Doorway in Chancel.]

The old church consists of a nave and chancel, with a square west tower. The nave is about 56 feet long by 33 feet wide, and the chancel is about 27 feet long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. The date (1630)

South Doorway in Chancel.]

is carved on the east gable, but the building undoubtedly is, in part at least, of older date. There are a great many stones, pieces of window tracery, and other carved work lying about the churchyard, which show that there was a former building, probably of fifteenth century work, here, which was doubtless in part taken down and rebuilt in the seventeenth century. The chancel arch (Fig. 1508) belongs to this earlier church. It is 12 feet 3 inches wide and is acutely pointed; the wall is about 3 feet 2 inches thick. The mouldings of the arch consist of double hollows, as shown on section (Fig. 1509), with a cap moulding of the form shown on the same figure.

The south doorway in the chancel (Fig. 1510) also belongs to the earlier church. The moulded jambs (Fig. 1511) abut against a square lintel, somewhat in the same manner as occurs in one of the windows in the tower at South Queensferry. The jambs rise at the base from a splay sloping inwards. The doorway to the nave (Fig. 1512) is more classic in design, and is of the seventeenth century. No other features of the church, except its sundials (see _The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. V.), call for special notice.

AYTOUN CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE.

The town of Aytoun (formerly written Eytun) stands on the river Eye, about seven miles north from Berwick-on-Tweed, and half a mile from the railway station.

The old church is situated in an open burial-ground, in connection with which a new church was erected some years ago. The old building appears, from the remains of its ivy-covered walls, to have been of considerable extent, but no details can now be made out. The only portion which remains in a tolerable state of preservation appears to have formed a south aisle or wing.

There is a plain segmental headed doorway in the east side, and a large circular headed window in the south end (Fig. 1513). The latter is divided by two mullions into three lights, each finished at the top with a round-arched head. The window has a transom in the centre. It is evident from the nature of the design and the form of the mouldings that the window is of late date, probably of the end of the sixteenth century.

Aytoun was granted by the Scottish Edgar to St. Cuthbert’s Monks, and thus became the property of the Priory of Coldingham, and shared its fate.

BALLINGRY CHURCH, FIFESHIRE.

The present church of Ballingry is a modern structure built in 1831. It stands on the site of a pre-Reformation edifice, which has entirely disappeared. The window shown in Fig. 1514 clearly belongs to the seventeenth century, being part of a north aisle, which was evidently built about that time. The window is the only feature of interest in the

building, and it is a good example of the Renaissance style, modified by the grafting on to it of Gothic features.

BLAIR CHURCH,[228] BLAIR-ATHOLL, PERTHSHIRE.

The walls of this old church (Fig. 1515) still stand within the grounds of Blair Castle, the seat of the Duke of Atholl, and about five minutes’ walk from the Castle. The building is roofless and the walls are almost complete, but they have been much slapped and altered to make the place suitable for Presbyterian worship.

The masonry is rubble work, built with stones gathered off the hills. The doors and windows have hewn jambs and lintels of freestone, all square-headed and splayed. A gravestone, dated 1579, has been built in the inside of the north wall. The chief interest of the ruin arises from its containing the vault in which Claverhouse is buried. A tablet on the inner face of the south wall of the church, west of the aisle which contains the vault, bears the following inscription:--

Within this vault beneath
Are interred the remains of
JOHN GRAHAM OF CLAVERHOUSE
Viscount Dundee
Who fell at the Battle of Killiecrankie
27 July 1689, aged 46
This memorial is placed here by
John, 7th Duke of Atholl, K.T.
1889

ST. BRANDAN’S, BOYNDIE, BANFFSHIRE.

The ruined Church of Boyndie or Inverboyndie stands on a slight elevation near the mouth of the small river of the same name, about two miles west from the town of Banff. The parish was formerly conjoined with Banff till 1634, when it was erected into a separate parish. The church is of ancient foundation, and was granted in 1211-14, along with that of Banff, to the monks of Arbroath.

The old church stands in the churchyard, which is still used. It was abandoned in 1773, when a new church was built. Since that time it has fallen into complete decay, so much so that the plan cannot now be properly distinguished. The only portions still preserved in tolerable condition are the west wall and belfry (Fig. 1516). These do not appear to be of great age. The wall contains the entrance doorway of the church. It has a round arch and jambs with a small splay, such as was common in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The top of the gable has a small belfry, which has latterly occupied the position of a former one, which was much larger. The older belfry must have been of considerable size, as is apparent from the large corbels which carried it, and which project boldly from both sides of the wall. These were arranged so as to carry an octagonal erection, which must have had a very picturesque effect.

They are evidently copied from the domestic architecture of the period. This structure seems to belong to the seventeenth century.

ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH, CUPAR, FIFESHIRE.

The old Church of Cupar having become decayed, the Prior of St. Andrews, in 1415, erected a new church on a new site in the town. But in 1785 this church was also found to be in a decayed condition, and was rebuilt on the same site as that of the fifteenth century. Part of the old structure at the north-west angle was, however, not destroyed, and still survives. This portion (Fig. 1517) comprises three arches of the main or central nave and the tower at the north-west angle. The latter (Fig. 1518) is quadrilateral, and its north and west walls are raised upon the outer walls of the church at the north-west angle, portions of which walls still exist, together with the jamb of a large west window. The tower is unrelieved by buttresses. On the east and south the walls are carried on arches, the lower story being thus included in the interior of the church.

The pier at the south-east angle which supports these arches is hexagonal in form, while the remaining piers of the church are round. The caps and bases are of the usual late form. The tower is oblong in plan, being 22 feet from east to west, and 18 feet from north to south. This inequality produces a peculiar effect in the broached spire which surmounts it, and which was erected in 1620 by the Rev. William Scott, the minister of the parish, at his own expense. The balustrade forming the parapet and the other features of the spire are quite in the character of the Scottish seventeenth century steeples, common in Fifeshire, such as those at Anstruther and Pittenweem.