Chapter IX: Part 9

The general arrangement of the buildings (Fig. 1309) is peculiar. The ground slopes rapidly from north to south, necessarily carrying the drainage with it; yet, contrary to the usual custom, the cloisters and residential buildings were placed to the north of the church. Exclusive of projections at the north-east and south-west angles, and a mortuary chapel on the south, the structures occupy a parallelogram about 87 feet from north to south, by 65 feet from east to west. The latter length is also that of the church proper, which occupies the south side of the square, but has at the west end a narthex about 15 feet square internally, which projects beyond the general range of the buildings. The walls of the narthex are now level with those of the church, but as there are roughly hewn corbel stones for carrying a floor overhead, it is probable this is only the lower stage of a bell-tower, of which the upper part has been long since demolished. The greater thickness of the walls and two sadly injured freestone buttresses on its south face (Fig. 1310) favour this idea. Entrance is obtained by a doorway with a plain pointed freestone arch, having a hood moulding close to the westmost buttress (see Fig 1310). The church is, internally, nearly 18 feet in width; and at the right hand, on entering, there remains the solid foundation of a stone stair leading to a tribune or organ gallery, recesses for the ends of massive beams to carry it being still visible, together with rough rubble corbelling on either side.

On the left is a narrow doorway, neatly formed with thin schist stones, leading to the cloisters. Internally the church is entirely devoid of architectural decoration, but an extensive range of stalls, of which traces still exist, and other wood-work, including an open roof, must have redeemed an otherwise bald interior, into which very little light can have been admitted. The principal source of light was a 5 feet wide window at the east end (Fig. 1311), divided by mullions into three lanciform lights,

the pointed arch-heads of which run up to the main arch. The other gable, seen on the right in Fig. 1311, is modern, and forms the entrance porch to what may have formerly been the chapter house, but which has been appropriated, in recent times, as a burial-place by the proprietor of the island. Apart from this there were only three windows in the nave, two very small, and another rather longer with a cusped head, all formed in freestone, and on the extreme east end of the south wall near the altar a square-headed window with slab lintel and sill. Between these windows a

plain schist doorway gives access to the mortuary chapel of the M‘Duffies or M‘Fies, which is about 25 feet long by 12 feet wide over the walls. These are unbonded into the south wall of the church, and were covered with a plain lean-to roof, in which there was evidently a priest’s apartment. The chapel is lit from the south by two small windows, and in a recess on the north side is the burial-place of Abbot M‘Duffie, covered with a carved slab representing the abbot fully vested, with his right hand raised in benediction, and a pastoral staff in his left. Pennant says:--“In the same place is a stone enriched with foliage, a stag surrounded with dogs, and a ship with full sail; round which is inscribed ‘Hic jacet

Murchardus Macdufie de Collonsa An. Do. 1539 Meuse Mart Ora me ille, Ammen.’”[144] Beyond this chapel, at the south-east angle of the church, is a singularly massive buttress, at the bottom of which, on the level of the floor and accessible by a narrow opening from the interior of the church, is a curious ambry about 3 feet cube, strongly lintelled overhead, and designed, no doubt, for the safe keeping of the church treasure, but is now desecrated as a “bone-hole.” The altar still remains built of freestone, evidently reused from some previous building.

On the north side of the chancel the arrangement is very peculiar. An opening about 8 feet wide, with a plain pointed freestone arch (Fig. 1312) resting on schist impost caps, gives access to a kind of trance or passage, having an ambry at the ground level on the left and a blocked up window on the right. It is formed between the north wall of the church and the south end of the chapter house, which is gabled independently of the church. Its only apparent use may have been as a sacristy. It is roofed in by large flat stones, with a rapid slope to the east. The east range of buildings is pretty complete, except on the north, where the gable fell some years ago. On the ground floor a large apartment, 19 feet 6 inches long by 15 feet 4 inches wide, with a doorway entering on the east cloister walk, was no doubt the chapter house.

The range of domestic buildings on the north has been sadly ruined, this having been the point where entry was obtained, in recent times, for the removal of materials, and thus of the north and south walls only fragments remain. A massive wall, still happily intact, encloses the cloister on the west. The internal area is rather over 41 feet square, with cloister walks about 7 feet broad, and the arcading presents some very singular features. The south arcade (Fig. 1313), which is evidently the most ancient, is composed of five low narrow arches with circular heads, very neatly turned with thin schist slabs, without any freestone or architectural dressing of any kind. The other three arcades were evidently part of a later restoration, and the peculiar form in which they were constructed is evidently due to the nature of the materials employed, viz., schist slabs of the same quality as that used for the sculptured slabs.

When Martin visited the island in the latter part of the seventeenth century, the three arcades and the enclosing walls were quite complete. A century later, in 1772, Pennant found the north arcade demolished with the exception of the end arches, while the east and west arcades remained intact. These subsequently disappeared also, and it was not until 1883 that Mr. Galloway found, scattered throughout the church and churchyard, sufficient materials to complete the restoration of one arcade. This was accordingly done on the west side (see Fig. 1313) in that year. Amongst the shafts and “pillars” found there were happily both of those mentioned by Martin as bearing inscriptions. The hewn work of these arcades was formed entirely of the peculiar kind of schist used in the sculptured crosses and memorial stones in the Western Highlands, and it may have been the facility of obtaining this material in the slab, rather than the cube form, which determined the special character of the arcading. Each arcade had openings or arches nearly 30 inches from centre to centre, there being seven in the east and west arcades, and probably one or two more in the north arcade. They were built with slab shafts, averaging 2 feet 10 inches high by 1 foot broad, and 2 or 3 inches thick, with neatly moulded and socketed caps and bases. On these

there rested the slabs, shaped at each end so as to meet exactly in the middle, thus forming a straight lined arch, and the haunches were filled up with rubble. With this both Martin’s and Pennant’s descriptions exactly agree.

The north range of the buildings, which no doubt contained the refectory and dormitories, has been too much dilapidated to admit of any intelligible description. In a line with it, however, and extending eastward beyond the priory square (see Plan), there is a small chapel of very early character, built entirely in rubble, without any freestone dressings. It is 17 feet over the walls and 33 feet in breadth; but for no apparent reason the west gable is slewed round to the south, making an inequality of 2 feet in the length of the sides. There has been a wide window in the east gable, but owing to the demolition of the wall its character cannot be judged. There are two small windows in the north side and one in the south, mere slits with no provisions for frames or glazing. There is an entrance doorway on the south side at the west end and a priest’s door at the east. On the north side there is a very small door nearly opposite that of the entrance on the south.

The foundations of the altar still remain, and a line of stones still indicates the position of the chancel rail. The base of the pulpit remains on the north side, and at the west end there has been a tribune or organ gallery, which has been accessible by a door in the east gable of the priory buildings. In this gable, on the ground floor, an archway has been formed 6 feet 8 inches in width, with a plain pointed rubble arch, which seems to have been subsequently filled in, and a square-headed doorway of much smaller size substituted.

Immediately to the north of this chapel, and separated from it by an 8 foot wide passage, is a most interesting example of a monastic barn and byre, 39 feet in length by 22 feet in breadth. It is an excellent specimen of rubble building with freestone dressings to the windows, &c., in the same style as the church, and may be coeval with the later restoration. The windows are small, and on the north side close to the ground are openings for the discharge of refuse from the byre. In the south-east angle a small chamber has been formed for the herd, with a little eyelet and ambry, and it would no doubt be cut off by partitioning from the other occupants. At the south-west angle there is a small door opening inwards, and some indications that a chamber had been formed between the building itself and the north wall of the priory. At the south wall head (internally) there has been inserted a 4 or 5 foot long schist slab, with a quaint human head carved in the centre. It serves no purpose where it is, and must evidently have been a relic of some older structure. There can be no doubt there was a doorway to the west, but, if so, the present entrance shows no traces of it. The building is still roofed, and in use.

Pennant states that the church “contains the tombs of numbers of the ancient islanders, two of warriors recumbent (7 feet long), a flattery perhaps of the sculptor to give to future ages exalted notions of their prowess. Besides, there are scattered over the floor lesser figures of heroes, priests, and females, the last seemingly of some order, and near them is a figure cut in stone of full size, apparently an abbess.”[145]

These figures, as illustrated by Pennant, strongly recall the corresponding monuments at Iona and elsewhere throughout the West Highlands and Islands.

The slabs have now been set up against the walls of the church (see Fig. 1311), while others still exist in the burying-ground outside.

Close to the south-west angle of the narthex stands the celebrated Oronsay cross[146] (see Fig. 1310). It stands on mason work covered by a slab 3 feet by 3 feet 3 inches, perforated with a hole in which the cross is fixed. The shaft is 12 feet in height. On the west face there is a Crucifixion on the disc, and the shaft is carved on both sides with the usual Celtic ornament in round panels. The inscription near the base is now illegible.

ST. MAELRUBBA, LOCH EYNORT, SKYE.

The site of the ancient Church of St. Maelrubba, at the head of Loch Eynort in the south of Skye, is now occupied by a more recent ruin.[147] A very interesting relic of the ancient church is, however, preserved in the remarkable font (Figs. 1314 and 1315), which, after some wandering and neglect, has at last found a suitable resting-place in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland in Edinburgh. An account of its transference from the shore of Loch Eynort to the Museum is given by Mr. J. Russell Walker, in a paper on “Scottish Baptismal Fonts” in the _Proceedings_ of that Society, 1886-7, p. 412. The bowl is circular, both externally and internally, and the basin is 1 foot 6½ inches in diameter and 13 inches deep. The circumference is divided into four equal parts by four figures representing--(1) The Crucifixion, (2) The Blessed Virgin with the Child, (3) a mitred bishop in full canonicals with a crosier in his left hand, and (4) St. Michael slaying the dragon. The panels to the right and left of the Crucifixion are filled with interlaced work, and those to the right and left of the bishop with inscriptions not now legible. On the lower sloping parts between the figures are floral designs. The font is of hornblende gneiss, and the carving is remarkable in that hard material. There seem

to be the remains of four caps, as if there had been four shafts to support the bowl.

The carving of this font is a striking illustration of the peculiar mixture of Celtic and Gothic work, of which numerous specimens are above noticed in connection with the structures of the Western Highlands and Islands, as at Iona, Rowdil, &c.

* * * * *

The examples of the third or late pointed period of Gothic architecture given above sufficiently indicate the progress of the style during the period, and show its gradual decline.

The following examples of this period, being for the most part fragmentary, are arranged alphabetically by counties.

KINKELL CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE.

A ruinous building, very prettily situated on the left bank of the Don, about three miles north from Kintore. Kinkell was once, as its name signifies, the head church of the district, and had under it six subordinate churches. In 1754 the Lords Commissioners for plantation of kirks annexed one third of the parish of Kinkell to that of Kintore, the remainder going to augment the parish of Keithhall. In 1771 the Church

of Kinkell was unroofed in order to supply materials for use in the Church of Keithhall. The Church of Kinkell was remarkable for its fine design and workmanship, and contained several monuments and sculptures; but it is now sadly ruined, only the north wall and parts of the east and west walls remaining.

The edifice (Fig. 1316) was a simple oblong 73 feet in length by 18 feet 6 inches in width internally. There has been a large east window, only one jamb of which partially remains, and there are no other window or door openings preserved. The north wall seems to have been entirely without openings. A large modern burial vault has been erected in the centre of the church.

One or two features of the former fine ornamentation of the structure still remain _in situ_, but other portions have been removed, and are now to be found elsewhere, as will be pointed out.

In the north wall near the east end is a fine sacrament house (Fig. 1317). The design consists, as usual in these details, of a buttress on each side of the ambry, with crocketed finials, the carving of which is of a late style. Between the pinnacles is a panel which seems to have been

ornamented with the usual monstrance supported by two angels, but the carving is nearly obliterated. Above this panel there runs a small crenelated parapet, supported by a double row of corbels. Immediately over the parapet is an oblong panel, which doubtless contained a Crucifixion or similar sculpture, but it is now empty.

To the right and left of the pinnacles are two panels, each containing a ribbon of different design. That on the left bears the inscription “HIC EST SVATV,” and that on the right the words “CORPS DE VIGIE NATUM,” which may be read, “Hic est servatum corpus de Virgine Natum.”

On the base of the ambry are the letters ANO. DNI. 1528, in the centre MEORARE, and on the right the initials A. and G. united by a cord. The letter G. also occurs at the end of the inscription in the right hand panel, and is probably a repetition of the last letter of the initials A. G.

Panel in North Wall of Church.]

The base is supported on a continuous corbel carved with foliage, and has in the centre a shield, bearing a lion rampant.

The initials A. G. twice repeated and the date, together with the late style of the work, point to the sacrament house having been designed by Alexander Galloway, who was rector of Kinkell in 1528, and who was also the architect of the first bridge of ten arches over the Dee at Aberdeen.

Another panel (Fig. 1318) is built into the north wall of the church a little to the west of the sacrament house. It contains a Crucifixion, with a figure of the Virgin Mary on one side and an angel on the other. The initials of Alexander Galloway occur three times on this sculpture, and the date 1525.

The font which was removed from the Church of Kinkell long stood in a garden, but is now restored and placed in St. John’s Episcopal Church, Aberdeen. Of the original font only the granite basin now exists. It is octagonal in form, and each face is illustrated with one or more sacred emblems, as shown in Fig. 1319, except one face, on which occur the initials of Alexander Galloway, parson of Kinkell. He was one of the best known ecclesiastics in Scotland before the Reformation, and gifted this font to the Church of Kinkell. Galloway appears to have been one of the most able public men of his time, of whom Boece says,[148] “He was so great a favourite

with the Bishop (Elphinston) that none of his concerns of moment were transacted without him.”

SACRAMENT HOUSE, KINTORE, ABERDEENSHIRE.

Another piece of sculpture (Fig. 1320) said to have been removed from the Church of Kinkell is preserved at the Church of Kintore. It was at one time built into the outer wall of the Church of Kintore, but it has now been removed for better preservation into the interior. It

Old Monument built into Wall.]

originally consisted of two parts, the lower portion containing the ambry for the reception of the sacramental elements, and the upper portion being enriched with a beautifully carved bas-relief, representing a monstrance of elaborate tabernacle work, supported by two angels, and crowned with a sculptured crucifix. The ambry is now wanting, except the lintel, which bears the words Jesus Maria. Over the lintel is a panel which no doubt formerly contained sculpture, now removed. The whole design is surrounded with a frame composed of a series of baluster shaped shafts, covered with flat foliage of a Renaissance character.

Whether this decorated work came from Kinkell or not, it evidently belongs to the period when that church was built, being of the latest Gothic design, which prevailed immediately before the Reformation.

ST. ADAMNAN’S CHAPEL, ABERDEENSHIRE.

A small chapel situated near Leask, some two or three miles inland from the old Castle of Slains. It is surrounded by what appears to have been a churchyard, but is now covered with stunted trees. The chapel (Fig. 1321) is filled with its own ruins and is utterly uncared for. The walls are fairly entire for a height of about 7 feet, while the east gable is nearly complete, and contains a pointed window about 7 feet wide, which was probably filled with tracery. The outside jambs are gone, but the inner splayed face of the arch is still entire. In the east wall are the remains of what may have been a piscina, and there is an ambry in the south wall adjoining. There are a window in the south wall and two openings of some kind in the north, with a narrow window high up in the west gable. The doorway is on the south side, but its jambs are gone, and only the bar hole remains to indicate that it was the doorway. The church measures, externally, 45 feet from east to west by 23 feet 3 inches from north to south.

Not much is recorded about this chapel. In the _View of the Diocese of Aberdeen_[149] it is referred to as the Parish Church of Fervie, “dedicated to St. Fidamnan, Abbot of Icolmkill.”

From the charters preserved at Slains, we learn that “a letter of manrent by the Lard of Essilmont is dated ‘at the Chapell of Laske’ on

the 11th of September 1499.”[150] Probably the church was erected during the foregoing century.

ARDCHATTAN CHURCH, ARGYLESHIRE.

Slight fragments of this ancient church are to be found on the north shore of Loch Etive, about four miles from Bonawe Ferry, near Taynuilt Station. This priory, dedicated to St. Modan, is said to have been founded in 1231 by Duncan Mackowle or MacDougal of Lorn, for monks of the order of Vallis Caulium. The remains (Fig. 1322) consist of the north, east, and west walls of what has been an oblong chamber, and apparently

the choir of a church. It measures 66 feet in length by 28 feet in width. In the small part of the south wall which survives there is a sedilia (Fig. 1323) with three seats. Each seat is marked by a sharply pointed arch, and the whole are enclosed in a deeply moulded semicircular arch. Some fragments, including a piscina, are now built into the back of the seats, but these are modern insertions. At the right hand termination of the large arch a small lion is sculptured, which recalls some of the carved work at Iona, and at the bases of the smaller arches carved leaves are introduced. There has also been an ambry in the east wall (see Plan).

At the west end of the building a double wall 9 feet in thickness has been erected. It is pierced with a round-headed archway, and has projecting jambs in the centre. This archway now leads into an open courtyard connected with a mansion. Its former use is difficult to determine.

To the north of the choir is preserved the outline of an irregular structure, which may have been a sacristy. It is 42 feet long by 14 feet wide at the east end, and 11 feet wide at the west end, and has been connected with the choir by a doorway and two windows. The exterior walls are now nearly demolished.

To the south of the choir is an open space enclosed with a wall 18 feet long by 15 feet wide, evidently erected as a burial-place. It has an arched entrance gateway at the south end. On the keystone of the arch are the letters C. K. and the date 1614. Lying within the choir are several monuments, one being in the recess of the larger window opening into the sacristy. Two are monuments of priors of the Macdougal family, and bear the dates of 1500 and 1502. The inscriptions have given rise to much discussion.

In 1644 the Macdonalds, led by Colkitto, burnt and destroyed the priory.

KILMUN CHURCH, ARGYLESHIRE.

On the north shore of the Holy Loch, about one mile and a half from Strone, stand the small ruins of the ancient Collegiate establishment of Kilmun. According to Dr. Skene a Columban establishment was here founded by St. Fintan Munnu of Teach in Munnu in Ireland. The district of Cowal, in which this establishment was situated, was long in the possession of the Lamont Clan, but was subsequently acquired by the Campbells. The church had, in the thirteenth century, passed into lay hands, “as, between 1230 and 1246, Duncan, son of Ferchan, and his nephew Laidman, son of Malcolm, grant to the monks of Paisley lands which they and their ancestors had at Kilmun, with the whole right of patronage in the church of Kilmun.”[151]

In 1442 a collegiate establishment was founded by Duncan Campbell of Lochow, for a provost and six prebendaries. The founder was buried

here in 1453, and Kilmun has since then continued to be the burial-place of the Argyll family. The great Marquis of Argyll was interred here in 1661, and the mausoleum of the family stands in the churchyard.

Of the College Church only a small portion remains, a modern church having been erected on the site of the old structure.

The remaining portion (Fig. 1324) consists of a tower about 20 feet square and about 40 feet in height. The basement floor is vaulted, and contains a doorway which entered from the west end of the church, and small loops in each of the south and west sides. That the church extended eastward from the tower is apparent from the fragments of the side walls and the mark of the roof, which still exist on the east side of the tower (see Fig. 1325). A wheel stair is carried up in the south-west angle of the tower, which gave access to three stories on the upper floors. The first floor contained a small rectangular window to the south. The floor above had a fireplace and a south window with pointed and cusped arch-head

(Fig. 1325). Over this was an attic, now ruined. From the above fireplace and ornamental window, we may perhaps assume that the tower was the abode of the provost, and from the strength with which it is built, and general resemblance to a keep, the tower was doubtless designed to form a place of strength in case of need.

ALLOWAY KIRK, AYRSHIRE.

This old structure, made famous by the genius of Burns, stands in its churchyard, surrounded with ancient trees, on the banks of the Doon, about three miles southwards from Ayr. The burying-ground contains many strangely sculptured tombstones, and a plain slab marks the grave of the poet’s father. Mention of Alloway occurs in 1236. In the beginning of the sixteenth century, when James VI. refounded and enlarged the Chapel Royal of Stirling, he annexed to it the Church of Alloway in Kyle, to form the prebend of one of the canons of that collegiate chapel. In 1690 the parish of Alloway was annexed to that of Ayr, and the church allowed to become ruinous.

The building (Fig. 1326) is 40 feet long by 20 feet broad internally. It is evident that the walls are ancient, but owing to alterations it is difficult to assign the building to any definite date. The principal feature is the two-light window (Fig. 1327), enclosed within one arch in the east gable, but this might be of almost any period before the seventeenth century. The belfry is massive and by no means without good effect, but it is clearly a post-Reformation structure.

On the outside of the south wall an old stoup or benitier has been let into the wall, but what purpose it can have served is far from clear. The church has evidently been used for worship in the seventeenth century, but is now a roofless ruin.

Part of the roof was standing when Captain Grose visited it in the end of last century.

OLD DAILLY CHURCH, AYRSHIRE.

A ruin situated in the vale of the Girvan Water, about three miles east from Girvan. It stands in the centre of a spacious churchyard, planted with noble trees. Within its walls rest the remains of several of the Martyrs of the Covenant. The church was anciently called Dalmakervan, and was dedicated to St. Michael. It was granted by Duncan, first Earl of Carrick, to the monks of Paisley, and confirmed to them by Alexander II. in 1236. It was afterwards transferred to the monks of Crosraguel, and the name was changed to Dailly, possibly from the site of the church having been changed.

The structure (Fig. 1328) is very long and narrow, being 92 feet in length and 26 feet wide over the walls. There is a gable wall at each end, and each gable is crowned with a belfry (Fig. 1329). It is difficult to account for the presence of the two belfries. That on the east gable is the more

ornamental of the two, but its ornament is obscured by ivy. The western belfry is plain and rather ruinous. The walls contain no doorways, and

only part of one window. From the details of the latter, the work seems to be of the seventeenth century, but the walls may be older. A new church was erected at New Dailly, and divine service transferred to it in 1696, since which period the old church has fallen into ruin.

A burial vault has been constructed within the east part of the building, in connection with the Bargeny Estate, which adjoins. Another similar vault for the use of the Killochan Estate, situated on the opposite side of the Girvan Water, has been erected at the north-east angle of the church (see Fig. 1329). It is evidently a seventeenth century structure. The north front is peculiar, having a deep niche on each side of the doorway. The latter is now built up.

STRAITON CHURCH, AYRSHIRE.

The village of Straiten stands near the north base of the mountains which form the boundary between Ayrshire and Kirkcudbrightshire. It is situated in a pastoral district about seven miles south-east from Maybole, and near the right bank of the Girvan Water.

The existing church is plain and of post-Reformation date, except a wing (Fig. 1330) which extends like a transept to the south, and measures about 21 feet 3 inches each way. This wing has been built in Gothic times, and when first erected probably formed part of the church, having a large traceried window in the south end, and a piscina in the inside of the east wall. The wing is now divided into two stories by a floor which has been inserted about 6 feet from the ground level, so as to convert the

Straiton Church.

South Doorway and Panel over.]

upper story into a gallery, with a private room adjoining, for the use of the Blairquhan family, whose domain adjoins. This upper floor is entered by a stair which has been erected on the south side of the wing (but is omitted in the sketch).

The south wing or transept contains, besides the large east window above referred to, a doorway (Fig. 1331) in the north-west angle, with an ogee shaped arch, surmounted by a panel having a pointed and trefoiled arch-head, and an enriched moulding surrounding the jambs and arch.

These features all indicate a late date. The large window in the south gable is of handsome form and construction, and the tracery is well designed and executed. It would naturally be assigned to the fourteenth century, but for the lower members, which are formed with straight lines, and certainly point to a later period, probably the sixteenth century. This window thus shows the tendency there was in Scotland to revert at the latter date to the forms of an earlier period.

The mode of finishing the gable also indicates a late time. Large gabled crowsteps, such as are seen here, are rare features in ecclesiastical edifices in this country. We do not recall any example of such large crowsteps, except at Methven Church, Perthshire, which is undoubtedly a late example.

The Church of Straiton was dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and granted, by Alexander II. in 1236, to the monks of Paisley, but afterwards transferred to Crosraguel Abbey.[152]

CULLEN CHURCH, BANFFSHIRE.

The ancient town of Cullen stood on the right bank of Cullen Water, at a little distance from the coast. It was greatly destroyed in the time of Montrose, and has been rebuilt on a new site nearer the sea. The old church, however, which is dedicated to St. Mary, still stands, surrounded

by the churchyard, on the old site near Cullen House, and continues to be used as the Parish Church. Although it has been altered at different times it still retains part of the ancient work, the oldest portions being the east end and the south aisle. The edifice (Fig. 1332) is cruciform in plan, having nave, choir, and transepts, all without aisles. The choir would appear, from the coats of arms it bears on the outside, and from the splendid monument in the interior of the north wall, to have been erected by Alexander Ogilvie, who died in 1554, and his second wife, Elizabeth Gordon.

There was a chaplainry in the church dedicated to St. Ann. This foundation, with the name of the founder and other particulars, are recorded by inscriptions cut upon different parts of the south aisle or transept.[153] “The first quoted inscription is from the arch of a recess tomb on the west side of the aisle. It is carved in raised and prettily formed capitals, and accompanied by a craftsman’s mark.

“IHON · HAY · LORD · OF · FORESTBON̄ · AZ̄E · & · TOLIBOVIL· GVDSIR · TO ELEN · HAY · Y^{t} · BIGIT · YIS · ILE · LEFT · A · CHAPLARI · HEIR · TO · SING PERSONALI · OF · HIS · LĀDIS · OF · ORDIHVF.”

The places named in the above inscription were received by Alexander Seton of Gordon (first Earl of Huntly) through his marriage with the heiress of Sir John Hay of Tilibody. “It was probably John’s son, David Hay, who, about 1390-1406, had a charter from Robert III. of the place of Cullen.”

“The next quoted inscription not only presents the important and interesting facts of the name of the chaplainry, the extent of the gift, and the services required, but also the names of the founder of the chaplainry and the persons to be prayed for, together with those in whom the patronage of the living was to be vested after the decease of the heirs of the donor. It is carved round the arch of the large window of the south aisle, in the same style as the above inscription.

“SANT · ANIS · CHAPLAN · HEIR · DOTAT · Y^{t} · 35 (?) ACRE · GVD · CROFT LĀD · IN · CULĀ · & · TENEMENTIS · SAL · BE · A · GVDE · SINGAR · OF · HALI LIF · BVT · ODIR · SERVICE · & · DAELI · RESIDENT · TO · PRAIE · FOR · ELEN HAY · · HER · BARNIS · HIS · FYIV · DŌRS · AT · GIFT · OF · ION · DUF · & HIS · ARIS · OF · MADAVAT · & · FALING · YAROF · AT · GIFT · OF · YE · BALZEIS AND COMUNITIE · OF · COLĀ.”

The words PER · ELENA · HAY are carved upon the lower side of one of the stones of the arch of the south window. Upon the west side of the arch is this notice of the building of the aisle:--

“· · · ELENGE · HAY · IŌN · DUFFIS · MODR · OF · MALDAVAT · YAT · MAID YIS · ISLE · YE · CHAPLANRI. · · ·”

The two inscriptions last quoted “show that Elen Hay was mother of John Hay of Muldavit, who died in 1404, to whom, until 1792, there was a recumbent effigy in the recess tomb in the south aisle at Cullen, also an inscribed slab with a rudely engraved figure in armour.”

The entrance to St. Ann’s Chapel from the main church is by an arch with pilasters and capitals, and below the caps of the west pilaster are the words ME · MĒTO · MORI, and on the east DISCE · MORI. Below the last

motto is the name of the mason who built the aisle, viz., ROBERT · MOIR MASON, and his mark, †/x. On the outside of the aisle (Fig. 1333) one corner stone bears PER ELENA · HAY, and another SOLI DEO · HONOR · ET · GLORIA.

Although Mr. Jervise attributes the above inscriptions and the erection of the chapel to 1404, the style of the lettering and the abundance

Sacrament House in Choir.]

of it, together with the style of the mottoes, would rather tend to the conclusion that the work is of a considerably later date. The arch forming the entrance from the church to the chapel, with its pilasters, has certainly the character of sixteenth century work. The group of four pointed windows in the south end of the south aisle has not the appearance of decorated work, such as prevailed about 1404. On the contrary, these windows recall the revived and imitative work of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. This group of windows, with its four pointed lights (round the inside of which one of the above inscriptions occurs), is evidently a late design. Possibly an aisle was built in the beginning of the fifteenth century, when the bequest was made, but it seems to have been rebuilt in the following century, when the inscriptions, which are scattered very irregularly over the structure, were reinserted and added to. The edifice was probably rebuilt when, about 1543, the Church of Cullen was converted into a college by Alexander Ogilvie of Deskford and Findlater, for the accommodation and maintenance of a provost, six prebendaries, and two singing boys. A bead-house was also erected by the same individual, for the support of a number of decayed men and women.

The choir, which is a portion added at the east end, contains a richly decorated monument in the north wall, erected by Alexander Ogilvie at the date of the church being made collegiate. The monument (Fig. 1334) is large, and extends from the floor to the roof. It consists of an arched recess with a group of ornamental shafts at each side, and large spandrils above, containing two large round panels, each having in the centre a sculptured figure in bas-relief. Along the top runs a series of canopies

and pinnacles of peculiar design. Within the arch lies an effigy of the founder clad in armour, supported on a basement, which is divided into eight panels, each containing a figure attired in a hood and long robe with book in hand. On a slab at the back of the arched recess is carved the following inscription:--

CORPUS · ALEX^{r} · OGILVY · DE · FINLATER · HĒROS ·.· AC · SPONSĒ · ELEZABETH · GORDON · BTRVMQ · EBBAT PRESIDE · PVRIS · BISTER · PVERISQ · DVOBUS ·.· HAS · IACINT · EDES · IV̄ CTVS · VTERQ · PIVS MIGRAVIIT · ET · HAC · LVCE · HIC · DIE · 4 · MĒNS · IVLII 1554 · ILLA · DIE · · · · · · MĒSIS · · · · · · 155-

Carved Wooden Pillar.]

Carved Wooden Pillar.]

The inscription is accompanied by a variety of curious carvings, and by the Ogilvie and Gordon arms. The style of the monument corresponds with the date upon it, being one of the last attempts in the style of Gothic work executed just before the Reformation.

Mr Jervise mentions that in 1863, when alterations were made on the east portion of the church, a stone altar-piece and ambry, in fine preservation, were found. These were 5 to 6 feet in height, embellished with the representation of two angels raising the host and other ornaments, and the text (John vi. 54-56) below the cornice.

CARO · MEA · VERE · EST · CIB · ET · SANGVIS · ME · VERE · Ē · POT · Q MĀDVCAT · MEĀ · CARNĒ · T̄ · BIBIT · MEV̄ · SĀGVINĒ · VIVET · Ī · ETERNV̄.

Carved Wooden Pillar.]

It is further stated that the ambry and altar-piece were unfortunately reconsigned from view. A sacrament house, answering somewhat to the above description of the ambry, is, however, now visible in the north wall of the choir, to the east of the monument (Fig. 1335). The design shows the two angels supporting a monstrance, and is very similar to, but much simpler than, the sacrament house at Deskford, “which bears to have been erected by Alexander Ogilvie, and his second wife, Elizabeth Gordon,” of which an illustration is given below.

The east end of the church has evidently been a good deal altered, as is apparent from the south wall (see Fig. 1333), where doorways are visible, which have been built up, and windows introduced above.

The coats of arms of the Gordons and Ogilvies on the exterior correspond with those in the interior. The choir contains a large east window divided by three mullions, which cross one another in curved branches, forming plain tracery in the arch-head (Fig. 1336).

On the south side of the choir is still preserved a fine example of a laird’s pew (see Fig. 1336). It is in two stories, the upper story (which forms a gallery) being supported on four solid square wooden pillars (Figs. 1337, 1338, and 1339), which are well carved with numerous ornaments of Renaissance work, and bear the date of 1608. The upper portion or gallery is also old, and contains some good carved woodwork of the post-Reformation period. It is still used as the proprietor’s pew, and is occupied by the Earl of Seafield, whose mansion of Cullen House is close to the church. The lower story is occupied by ordinary pews.

DESKFORD CHURCH, BANFFSHIRE.

The old church of Deskford is situated in its ancient churchyard, about four miles south from Cullen. The church is now a roofless ruin, a new church having been erected in the vicinity. The building is a plain parallelogram, and has no features of note, except the large sacrament house in the north wall near the east end. It seems to have been the fashion in the sixteenth century in this part of the country to make these features very ornamental. Such are the ambries or sacrament houses at Kinkell, Auchendoir, and Cullen. The last was erected by the same individual to whom that at Deskford is attributed, viz., Alexander Ogilvie of Deskford and Findlater, whose splendid monument exists in Cullen Church (see Fig. 1334).

The sacrament house at Deskford (Fig. 1340) is very large, being 8 feet in height by 3 feet 6 inches wide. The design is somewhat similar in all the above sacrament houses, consisting of two angels above the ambry supporting a monstrance, with a quasi-buttress on each side, and several inscriptions and enrichments. At Deskford the side buttresses are a good deal broken and their pinnacles removed. The whole design is surrounded with a scroll ornament of grapes, and there are several inscriptions on various parts of the design. The first is on two scrolls immediately over the ambry, “Os meum es et cara mea”--“Thou art my bone and my flesh;” and another occurs on the broad sill of the ambry, “Ego sum panis vivus qui de celo descendi quis manducaverit ex hoc pane vivet in æternum”--from sixth chapter of John’s Gospel. Beneath the latter are two shields, the first containing the arms of Ogilvie of Deskford and Findlater, viz., 1st and 4th a lion passant gardant gules for Ogilvie, 2nd and 3rd argent a cross engrailed sable for Sinclair of Deskford, with motto Tout jour. The initials A. O. occur at the sides of this shield. The second shield contains, impaled with the above, the arms of Gordon, for Alexander Ogilvie’s second wife, Elizabeth Gordon, and the motto Laus Deo.

Under the coats of arms there is a long inscription, which is remarkable as being the only one in English on any of the above sacrament houses. It also authorises the name of sacrament house for these ornamental ambries. It is as follows:--

THIS · PN̄T (present) LOVEBLE · VARK · OF · SACRAMĒT · HOVS · MAID · TO YE · HONOR [M] LOVĪG · OF · GOD · BE · ANE · NOBLE · MAN · ALEXANDER OGILVY · OF · YAT · ILK [M] ELEZABET · GORDON · HIS · SPOVS · THE · ZEIR OF · GOD · 1551.[154]

The date would lead one to expect the very debased Gothic work which is found here, the influence of the approaching Renaissance being very apparent in the style of the ornamentation.

ST. MOLOC’S OR ST. MOLUOG’S CHURCH, MORTLACH, BANFFSHIRE.

It was formerly believed, on the evidence of Boece, that Malcolm ii. in a battle with the Danes, looking up to the Chapel of St. Moloc at Mortlach, vowed that, if successful, he would there erect a cathedral and found a bishop’s see. The record of the See of Aberdeen appeared to support this statement, and mentioned further that the see was afterwards transferred by David i. to Aberdeen. But Professor Cosmo Innes has

proved that these stories are forgeries, and must be entirely rejected. It is, however, probable that there was an early religious settlement at Mortlach, which may have given some foundation for the above fables. At all events, in 1157, a Bull of Pope Adrian IV. mentions the monastery of Mortlach and the five churches belonging to it.

The existing structure (Fig. 1341) consists of an old building of simple oblong form, 83 feet in length internally by 24 feet in width, to which was added, in 1826, a large north wing or aisle. This wing was further vefynded in 1876, and now measures, internally, 36 feet long by 26 feet.

A small wing or projection has also been added to the south to contain an organ, and the whole church has been reseated and fitted up for service in modern style. There are two lancet windows in the east end, which, together with some portions of the walls, may be ancient (perhaps of thirteenth century date), as it is understood that these windows were found built up, and were reopened during the late restoration, but the remainder of the church has been completely modernised.

Under a pointed arch in the thickness of the north wall, close to the east end, lies the recumbent effigy of a knight in armour (Fig. 1342), supposed to be the monument of Alexander Leslie, the first of Kininvie,[155] who died about 1549. The figure used to stand upright, but has now been placed in its proper position.

A remarkable sculptured stone[156] stands in the flat ground below the church, where the battle with the Danes is said to have taken place, and of which it is traditionally believed to be a memorial.

ABBEY ST. BATHANS, BERWICKSHIRE.[157]

The Abbey of St. Bothan was a convent for Cistercian nuns. Its scanty remains are situated about four miles south-west from Grant’s House Railway Station, in a beautiful valley on the right bank of the Whitadder, which here flows a calm full stream, surrounded by gently swelling hills--an ideal situation for such a house. The modern parish church appears to occupy the site of the ancient church of the abbey, and probably the nunnery buildings were included within the existing churchyard, which lies on the south side of the church. The east wall of the

church only is old, and is entirely ivy clad, the east window (Fig. 1343) being just visible. It is round-arched and is of two lights, each 9 inches wide, with a quatrefoil above, having rather rudely formed cusping. The mullion is modern, and the tracery is recessed to about the middle of the thickness of the wall, being about 18 inches back from the outer face. There is a set-off on the gable, hidden by ivy. It is impossible to say how much of the other walls are old, but probably the modern church occupies the old foundations, in which case the ancient church was

Figure of a Prioress.]

of small size, being about 45 feet long by 24 feet wide.[158] There is a sundial on the wall-head of the south wall at the east end. At the north corner of the east end there are indications of a wall with a splayed base having extended eastwards.

In the interior of the church a modern arched recess (or what appears on the face as modern) contains the recumbent figure of a prioress (Fig. 1344). It measures 6 feet long, and is in good preservation. There appears to have been a dog lying at her feet, but it has been knocked off.

About a quarter of a mile to the south of the church, on the slope of a hill, there are the foundations of a chapel (Fig. 1345) measuring about 38 feet long by 15 feet wide internally. The end walls are each about 5 feet thick, and the side walls about 3 feet. Nothing else belonging to the church remains, except a few fragments of what was probably a circular font, and a window sill lying amongst the ruins. It shows that the window was eight inches wide. A plain slab 6 feet long by 18 inches wide lies in the centre of the building.

The Convent of St. Bothan’s was founded by Ada, daughter of William the Lion, in 1184. She married Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, and they made adequate endowments to the convent.[159] According to Chalmers there was a previous church here, dedicated to St. Bothan,

which was probably given to the Countess Ada’s nuns. It is just possible that the second church, noticed above, may be the church referred to.

BASSENDEAN CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE.

The ancient parish of Bassendean is now incorporated with that of Westruther, both in the south-west part of Berwickshire, and the church has long been disused.

The remains of Bassendean Church, which was dedicated to St. Mary, lie five and a half miles west of Greenlaw. The walls are broken down,

but the plan (Fig. 1346) can still be traced. The structure is a simple oblong, measuring 54 feet 6 inches in length by about 20 feet in width externally. The doorway is in the south side, and has been provided with a slot for a bolt. The remains of a stoup and ambry exist beside the door, and there is a recess for a piscina near the east end, and an ambry in the north wall opposite it. In the centre of the south wall there has been a single-light window, and towards the east end a larger two-light

window with a central mullion, now built up (Fig. 1347). The plan of the jamb (Fig. 1348) shows that the structure has been of an

Bassendean Church.

Window Jamb.]

advanced date. The grooves for the glass are in the centre of the wall. There is no window in either of the east, north, or west walls. Fragments of the font are lying amongst the rubbish in the inside.

The old church of Bassendean is still used as a burial-place by the Homes of Bassendean.

The church belonged to the priory of Coldstream, and appears to have been abandoned at the Reformation. It was again used for divine service from 1647 to 1649, when a new church was erected at Westruther, and St. Mary’s was allowed to fall into ruin.

COCKBURNSPATH CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE.

The village of Cockburnspath is situated about seven miles south-east of Dunbar. The church here is peculiar and unique, in having a round tower in the centre of the west wall. It is a long narrow building (Fig. 1349), measuring about 80 feet in length by 18 feet 3 inches in width. The structure has been much knocked about, having undergone at least two restorations at different times, the last being about twenty years ago. It is therefore not surprising to find that there is nothing left inside the building of any architectural interest. Four angle buttresses at the corners, however, remain intact, together with portions of an early base course near the east end, and the head of a window, containing geometrical tracery (Fig. 1350), has been preserved and built into the south wall over the door near the east end. Judging from these details and from the thickness of the walls (3 feet 2 inches) it seems probable that the church is not later than the sixteenth century.

The tower (Fig. 1351) is about 9 feet in external diameter, and its interior diameter is about 6 feet. It is about 30 feet high, and contains