Chapter XIV: Part 14

Some of the walls of these structures still exist, with two square projecting windows overlooking the courtyard. On the east side is the gatehouse, a battlemented structure with a round archway passing through it, now greatly decayed and covered with ivy. Beyond the courtyard to the north lay some outer grounds and a chapel.[252]

After the Reformation the buildings passed into the hands of laymen, and the monastery became the “manor place of Pittenweem.” In 1588 a portion of the grounds was granted to the burgh, in order that a suitable church might be erected, which was carried out soon thereafter (Fig. 1582). Possibly some portions of the church of the priory are included in this building, but it has in recent years been restored and extended.

The quaint tower (Fig. 1583), with its mixture of Gothic and classic features, is the only part which has not been interfered with. The tower, which stands at the north-west angle of the church, is about 18 feet square externally. It rises with a plain square outline for a considerable way without buttresses or anything to distinguish it from a castle keep. There are even shot-holes under the windows, as in the domestic structures of the time. The stair turret in the north-east angle has the outline and corbelled gablet similar to the cape-house of the stair turrets of the Scotch castles of the period. The spire, with its remarkable lucarnes, helps to give the erection a little more of an ecclesiastical character, but the balustrade again recalls the attention to the domestic and Renaissance style of the design.[253]

POLWARTH CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE.[254]

This church (Fig. 1584) was reconstructed in 1703, and is believed to rest on the foundations of an older structure, dedicated by Bishop Bernham in 1242. The building measures 55 feet by 24 feet over the walls. Although of such a late date, it is of pleasing form, and has fine large mouldings round the doors and panels above them. A stone on the east gable contains the Polwarth arms, three piles engrailed.

The font of the old church stands outside the building. It is of a round form 28 inches in diameter. The basin, which is 22 inches in diameter,

is 11½ inches deep, with a central aperture. The height of the fragment is 21 inches.

HERALDIC PANEL FROM PRESTONPANS CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE.[255]

This panel (Fig. 1585) was discovered in 1891 during some alterations of the seating of the church. It then formed the back of a seat in the gallery, and was concealed by a green cloth. Doubtless, from its heraldic decorations, it must originally have occupied a more prominent position. The arms and initials show that it belonged to the Hamiltons of Preston. The date on the panel (1604) connects it with an earlier church, the present church having been erected later. The panel is of oak and in good preservation, except where cut away to make it fit its new position, and the colours are still rich and fresh. The panel is in two pieces, each 2 feet 3 inches high. The whole is divided into eight compartments, of which only four bear arms. They are all arched, and are separated by

pilasters. On the four compartments arms, surrounded by laurel wreaths, are blazoned in colour, together with initials. The initials G. H. and B. C., which refer to George Hamilton, Laird of Preston, and Barbara Cockburn, his wife, are carved in relief in the spandrils. The letters painted within the arches, viz.,S/J. H. and D./K. H. stand for Sir John Hamilton, the son of the above, and Dame Katherine Howieson, his second wife, married 1620. The lady died 1629. The shields beneath these initials contain the Hamilton arms twice, and the Cockburn and Howieson arms for the wives of the father and son. The initials of the son and his wife were carved over the windows of the tower, while over the centre window they appear in a monogram with the date 1626.

This panel, which is one of the very few early coloured decorations which survive in Scotland, is now in the possession of General Sir William Stirling Hamilton of Preston.

RATHAN CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE.

A ruinous building situated about three miles south from Fraserburgh, and standing in an old churchyard. The east end has entirely disappeared, and only a small part of the north wall remains (Fig. 1586). What

survives of the south wall of the nave is 49 feet long, but it doubtless considerably exceeded that length; the interior width is 21 feet. A south aisle is entire, but roofless. It enters from the nave by a plain round-arched opening (Fig. 1587) 8 feet 8 inches wide, and the outside dimensions of the aisle are 35 feet long by 20 feet 8 inches wide.

The nave (see Fig. 1587) has a door in the west end, with a window

above and a belfry on the apex of the gable, dated 1782, which probably superseded an earlier one.

The aisle has a round-arched doorway (Fig. 1588) with a bar hole in the west wall, and over it a panel with an inscription in raised letters, “ALEXANDER FRASER OF PHILORTH, PATRON,” a coat of arms, and part of a broken stone with an inscription. It is possible that these stones are not original, but have been inserted; they are so covered with ivy that it is not easy to determine. In the south gable (Fig. 1589), which is crow-stepped, there is a well-moulded window with a straight lintel, and a sundial over. In the east wall there is an ambry (Fig. 1590) with an ogee arch, and alongside it what was probably a piscina is now filled with an old memorial inscription.

Window in South Gable.]

The Church of Rathan was dedicated to St. Ethernan or Eddran, from whom the place is said to take its name. This saint lived towards the end of the sixth century. “He consecrated several churches, and particularly Rethin, which was afterwards dedicated to his own memory.”[256]

Richard, parson of Rathen, is a witness to charters by Adam, Bishop of Aberdeen, between 1207 and 1228, and the benefice of Rathyn was given to the Chapter and College of Canons of St. Machar’s Cathedral by Robert i. in 1328; and in 1520 Rathyne was let in lease for the yearly rent of £212.[257]

Of the early church nothing remains. On the south aisle of the existing structure, according to the Rev. Mr. Pratt, there is the date

Ambry.]

1646. It may be that part of the church is somewhat older than this date. Ten years earlier there appear to have been building and repairs going on; and an action was brought before the Privy Council to restrain Alexander Fraser of Philorth from putting up his arms on the newly built kirk stile.[258] What was the result of the case we do not know, but Fraser evidently succeeded in getting his name carved on the church, as we see, together with his arms and his title of patron.

SOUTHANNAN CHAPEL AND CASTLE, WEST KILBRIDE, AYRSHIRE.

About one mile south from the railway station of Fairlie, on the level ground facing the sea, and with its back close to the railway, stands the ruin of Southannan Castle. It has been an extensive structure (Fig. 1591), having had a high enclosing wall, with a courtyard and an arched entrance porch to the west, defended with shot-holes (Fig. 1592). There

has been a considerable range of dwelling-house accommodation, two stories in height, along the north side, and smaller buildings on the east side, leaving a large courtyard in the centre, now forming the garden of the adjoining farmhouse (Fig. 1593). The situation is fine, and the edifice is backed by the high range of thickly wooded hills which extends between Largs and Kilbride.

The lands of Southannan were granted to Lord Semple in 1504. Chalmers says[259] that John, Lord Semple, in the reign of James IV., built a chapel, which was dedicated to St. Annan or St. Ennan, and granted for the support of the chaplain in it an annual rent of 10 merks from certain lands, “with two sowmes of pasture grass in the mains of Southennan,

and an acre of land on the north side of the cemetery belonging to the said chapel for the chaplain’s manse. This grant was confirmed by the king in June 1509. The ruins of the chapel are still extant in the

front of the fine mansion of Southennan, which is also in ruins.” “Saint Inan or Innan is said to have been a confessor at Irvine, and to have died in 839.”

The castle was much enlarged by Robert, fourth Lord Sempill, ambassador to the Court of Spain in 1596; but some of the existing remains have the appearance of being still more modern. The old mansion was dismantled towards the end of last century, and the materials used in the erection of farm-buildings and dykes. “What remains are chiefly the outer walls to the left (north) of the courtyard and some more ancient-looking remnants at the back (east), attached to which are remains of what may have been the chapel of the saint.”[260] This may be the case, as some of the walls are old and have been altered; but the vaulted chamber to the east has the appearance of being much more modern.

On the whole, we fear that the chapel has entirely disappeared, and that this account of Southannan should rather have appeared amongst the castles than the churches of Scotland.

STENTON CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE.

The village of Stenton is situated about three and a half miles south-east from East Linton Railway Station. The church (Fig. 1594), which, with the exception of the tower and the entrance doorway, is a total ruin (Fig. 1595), extends for a length of about 65 feet, but as the east end is

entirely gone, it is impossible to say how much longer it was. The width of the building within the walls is about 18 feet. The doorway (Fig. 1596), which is on the south side near the west end, is arched with a flat segment of a circle, with the mouldings of the jambs (Fig. 1597) continued round the arch, and with a splayed impost separating the arch and jambs. The arch is finished with a hood moulding. The small flat-headed window seen alongside the doorway (see Fig. 1595) is an insertion probably of the seventeenth century, and no other feature of the church is now in existence, except indications of a north door (see Plan).

The tower, however, stands complete and entire at the south-west corner of the structure. It measures about 16 feet 6 inches by 15 feet

9 inches over the walls, and is two stories in height. It is entered by a narrow flat lintelled door on the south side. The space inside is about 10 feet by 7 feet, but it has been narrowed by masonry at the ground level, as shown on the Plan, to a width of about 5 feet. The tower communicated with the church by a doorway, now built up.

The upper story, which has a timber floor, has been reached by a ladder. It is lighted by a window on each face, round arched

Moulding of Doorway.]

and widely splayed, and the arches are cut out of single stones. The tower finishes with a saddle-backed roof and crow-stepped gables, the whole being of the original construction.

From indications remaining against the north wall of the tower, there has doubtless been a high window in the west gable of the church.

The whole structure appears to be of the sixteenth century. The top stone of the east gable and a simple circular font (Fig. 1598) are lying near the ruin.

STOW CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN.

The village of Stow is situated on the Gala Water, in the southern part of Mid-Lothian, near the borders of Roxburghshire and Peeblesshire.

The parish was originally called Wedale, and the church belonged to the Bishop of St. Andrews, who had a residence there. Hence the village was known as the Stow of Wedale.

The original Church of St. Mary was at a distance from the village, but the existing ruin, which is partly of some antiquity, stands in the ancient churchyard close to the village.

The structure is for the most part of seventeenth century date, but a portion at the south-west angle is much older, and has been incorporated with the newer building. The plan of the church, as it now stands (Fig. 1599), consists of an oblong 67 feet in length by 21 feet in width internally, with a wing on the south side 14 feet long by 11 feet wide within the walls.

The principal oblong chamber appears to have been constructed at two different times, there being a break in the interior of the wall at 20 feet from the east end. There is also a slight exterior projection on the outside of the north wall at the same point. The eastern addition has evidently been made so as to provide a gallery, probably a private one, at this end. The gallery was entered by a long slope or ramp on the exterior of the east wall, beneath which was a door giving access to the space below the gallery. The gallery and space below were lighted by square-headed windows in the south wall. On the jamb of the east doorway is carved the date 1799.

The arrangements at the west end have been similar to those at the east end. There was a gallery, lighted by a large traceried window (Fig. 1600) in the west wall of seventeenth century design, and the space below the gallery had two square-headed windows in the same wall, divided with mullions. A round-headed doorway in the south wall gave

Stow Church.

Mouldings of South Doorway.]

access to the space under the gallery, the mouldings of which (Fig. 1601) clearly indicate a late date. Adjoining this doorway is the portion of the structure above alluded to as being of ancient date. This consists of a plain buttress built with freestone ashlar, and a small part of the south and west walls connected with it, including a base splay on the south side. These walls are built with the same kind of materials as the buttress, while the greater part of the walls are constructed with rubble work. The buttress has the broad form with small projection, and the simple water table of Norman or transition work.

The projection or “aisle” on the south side of the church has also contained a private gallery, with a fireplace in the south wall. The mouldings of the doorway indicate seventeenth or eighteenth century work.

There are no windows in the north wall, but some portions of the masonry are of ashlar work and may be of the period of the south-west angle.

The belfry, the vane of which bears the date of 1794, is a comparatively late addition. It is supported on corbels projecting from the inside of the wall.

TERREGLES CHURCH, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE.

This curious structure (Fig. 1602) is situated about two and a-half miles north-west from Dumfries. It was erected by the fourth Lord Herries shortly before his death in 1583.

A few years ago this “queir” or choir was completely restored, and the buttresses were then added. Omitting these it may be regarded as a fair example of the quaint architecture of James VI.’s time, when the revival of Gothic was attempted, along with the revival of Episcopacy.

AGNES LADY HERRIES

FIG. 1604.--Terragles Church. Details of Finials and Coat of Arms of Agnes, Lady Herries.]

We are fortunate in being able to show a drawing (Fig. 1603) of the church made by the late Mr. W. F. Lyon, architect, in 1872, before it was restored. Fig. 1604 shows details of the finials and the arms of Agnes, Lady Herries, which are carved on the church. The date 1585 is cut in the cornice over the east window.

Before the Reformation this church belonged to the nunnery of Lincluden, and the collegiate church which succeeded it.

TURRIFF CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE.

This ancient church, which was dedicated to St. Congan, is a very old foundation, having probably been established, in the seventh century, by a follower of St. Columba. It received donations at various early dates, amongst others one by King Robert the Bruce. In 1272 it was attached by the Earl of Buchan to an almshouse for thirteen poor husbandmen. The church was 120 feet long by 18 feet wide, but is now reduced to the fragment of the choir, crowned with the picturesque belfry shown by the sketches. The belfry (Fig. 1605) is interesting as an example of the application to an ecclesiastical edifice of the Scottish style so general in

Belfry.]

the domestic architecture of the seventeenth century. There is a strong dash of Renaissance taste in the design; but the cornice with its small corbels, and the string course with its moulded supports, might be details from any old Scottish castle. The bell bears the date 1557. A curious relic of the older structure has, however, been discovered in the choir in the form of an antique wall-painting of St. Ninian.

The interior of the choir contains

a very interesting and remarkably picturesque series of monumental slabs, with a quantity of well-executed lettering. One of these tablets is to the memory of a member of the family of Barclay of Towie, of date 1636, with a Latin inscription still legible.

The churchyard contains a number of interesting monuments of the same date as the belfry.

The gateway to the churchyard (Fig. 1606) is a simple but pleasing specimen of the early Scottish Renaissance, similar in style to the belfry.

WALSTON CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE.

The parish church of Walston stands on a height overlooking the vale of the river Medwin, about two miles west from Dolphinton. Till near the end of the thirteenth century the Church of Walston was a lay rectory in the gift of the Lord of the Manor. It is specially referred to in an award of 1293.[261] The edifice stands in an ancient churchyard, and not far from what was formerly a mansion known as the “Place of Walston.”

The existing church (Fig. 1607) stands north and south, and is a long single chamber 64 feet 6 inches in length and 16 feet in width internally. A portion has been cut off the north end to form a vestry. The original church is believed to have stood east and west. At the south end a portion of the existing structure is evidently, from its workmanship, of a different period from the remainder. The ashlar work of which it is built is seen to stop beyond the first window from the south (Fig. 1608). This was doubtless the wing or transept erected by Robert Baillie of Walston, in 1650, as a burial-place for his family. The remainder of the church was rebuilt in its new position in continuation of the south wing by the Rev. Patrick Molleson, minister (born 1746, died 1825), who has placed the letters M. P. M. and the date 1789 on the north gable.

The south wing is the only part worthy of notice. The window shows the feeling for the Gothic revival of the seventeenth century. In the panel over it is the inscription “Give God the onlie honour and glory.

Anno 1656.” The entrance doorway to the wing, which contained a tomb below and a gallery above, is in the east side. Over the flat lintelled door is the quotation, “Keep thy foot when thou goest to the House of God, and be more ready to hear than to give the sacrifice of fools.--Ecclesiastes, chapter V., verse 1.” The tomb and gallery are now removed, and the space thrown into the church. In the pavement on the site is inscribed “In memory of John Allain, Esq., of Elsrickle.” The quaint dormer window, shown in Fig. 1609, was taken down during the repairs made on the church a few years ago.

WEEM CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.[262]

The ruined church of Weem stands in the village of that name, near the entrance to Castle Menzies, at a short distance from Aberfeldy. It is still in a fair state of preservation, the walls being entire, although greatly overgrown with ivy, and the roof being still intact, with the belfry on the west gable. The building has been abandoned for many years. According to Mr. A. H. Millar[262] the Church of Weem is mentioned about 1296 in the oldest charter at Castle Menzies, and references in charters are continuous till, in 1510, the Barony of Menzies was erected by charter from James IV., when “the patronage of the Kirk of Weem was specially included in the gift.”

The existing building, however, appears to be of a later date, since over the eastmost doorway there are the impaled arms of Sir Alexander Menzies and his wife, Margaret Campbell, with their initials, and the date 1600, together with the inscription shown in Fig. 1610.[263]

The church (Fig. 1611) is an oblong building, measuring internally about 62 feet 5 inches from east to west by about 19 feet wide, and has a north transept projecting 21 feet by 17 feet in width. It is ceiled and plastered at the roof ties. There are two doors and three windows on the south side, all of which are square headed. In each gable, high up near the ceiling, there is a window of a pointed form. All the windows and doors have large bead mouldings. In the inside of the south wall there are two ambries, one of which contains the initials of Duncan Menzies and his wife, Jean Leslie, sister of the Earl of Rothes, who were married in 1623. And on the other occur the initials D. M.

There are several interesting grave slabs in the church, but the most remarkable feature is the monument shown in Fig. 1612, which stands against the north wall near the east end, as indicated on the Plan. It is an important example of Scottish Renaissance work, and contains a great amount of detail, much of it very elaborate.

The sixteenth or seventeenth century monuments in Scotland may be divided into two classes, viz.:--First, the class represented by the Montgomery monument at Largs,[264] and the seventeenth century monument in Seton Church, which are almost pure Italian, with very little of the previous Gothic manner, and almost nothing of local or Scottish feeling. Monuments of this class may probably be the design, if not the work, of foreign hands. In the second class are the monuments which seem to

owe their design and execution to native skill, and amongst these may be included this monument at Weem. The structure measures about 13 feet in length at the base, and has a projection from the wall of about 2 feet.

The general scheme of the design is of an ordinary form, consisting of an arched recess above a dado or pedestal, which is divided into three panels separated from each other by delicate tapering shafts. At each side rises a half round engaged shaft to carry the moulded arch above. These shafts have capitals, rudely carved with oak leaves, supporting square abaci. Above the arch there is a level cornice slightly broken at intervals over figures beneath. At each side of the monument a large figure stands on a finely designed pedestal, the one representing Faith and the other Charity. The former holds a book with the inscription, _Quidquid fit sine Fide est peccatum_, while the figure of Charity is represented in the usual typical manner. The figures are surmounted with very beautiful canopies reaching nearly up to the cornice. Above the cornice a rudimentary pediment contains the Menzies and Campbell arms and monograms, over which, and leaning forward, is a panel having a figure with

outstretched arms, supposed to symbolise the Creator. At each end of the cornice is a kneeling figure placed before a small pedestal shaped like a prie-dieu.

This monument having been erected not to the memory of one individual, but of several, was probably not intended to contain any recumbent figure, although the space for one is provided. Such a figure would have in a great measure concealed the descriptive tablet and its accompanying heraldry, which occupy the background of the recess. The monument bears the date of the 24th January 1616, and was erected by the Sir Alexander Menzies already referred to, to perpetuate the memory of his two wives and of his maternal ancestors, beginning with his great-great-grandmother. The names of all these ladies, with the arms of their respective houses, adorn the monument, and need not be repeated here, as full information regarding them will be found in Mr. Millar’s work, already cited.

YESTER CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE.

The parish church of Yester stands at the north end of the village of Gifford, about four and a half miles south of Haddington. The

ancient church of Yester has already been described. It was superseded last century by the present structure, which is a plain oblong chamber of the usual style of the period, but with a tower on the south side (Fig. 1613), which is a good example of that class of erection at the period.

NOTE.

The illustration or tailpiece on the following page shows a remarkable specimen of early Scottish sculpture, preserved in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland in Edinburgh.

The stone, which is about 6 feet in length, was found in the River May, Perthshire, and is supposed to have come from an ancient church which formerly occupied a site within a rath or stronghold which stood on the Holy Hill, on the bank of the river, near Forteviot, about two miles from Forgandenny.[265] The last traces of the rath and church were swept away by a flood which occurred in the beginning of this century.

This early church is probably that referred to in the legend of St. Andrew given in the _Pictish Chronicle_ as the church built at Forteviot by Hungus, the Pictish king (731-761), in the last year of his reign, after the arrival of the relics of St. Andrew in Scotland.[266] Although the character of the sculpture seems rather to suggest a date not quite so early, it may, nevertheless, be surmised that the figures depicted on the stone are those of King Hungus and his three sons, seated in the usual royal attitude, with the sword across the knees.

From the arched form of the stone it seems most likely to have been a chancel arch, a feature which would scarcely be expected in Scotland in the eighth century. The primitive church may, however, have been rebuilt, possibly in the tenth century, when a church with a chancel would more probably be erected, having the stone in question for its chancel arch. The small upright animal in the centre of the arch, having a cross in front of it, seems to represent the Paschal lamb; while the other nondescript animal at the feet of the king may be an early example of the practice usual in mediæval monuments of resting the feet of the effigy on an animal.[267] On the Ruthwell Cross the figure of the Saviour appears standing on the heads of two animals.

APPENDIX.

The following is a statement by Mr. W. Galloway in defence of his views regarding the date of the walls of St. Blane’s Church, Bute:[268]--

“Objections are taken in the notice of St. Blane’s Chapel, Bute
(Vol. I. p. 297), to the views advanced by me in the _Archæologia
Scotica_ (Vol. V. p. 217) as to the priority in date and
construction of the rubble part of the chancel, over the Romanesque
structure conjoined with it. These are specially summarised under
three heads, in the first of which exception is taken to the fact
of there being a base, topped with a small splayed freestone
course, with rubble above and below, which is supposed to
contravene the ideas ordinarily entertained as to Celtic practice.
This practice, however, was strictly dependent upon and fixed by
the nature of the building materials that happened to be available
in any particular locality. In out of the way districts and far-off
islands, where freestone was unknown or not procurable, the builder
had to be content with the stone that came most readily to hand,
necessity, not choice, compelling his selection. This is proven by
the avidity with which the Celt took to freestone whenever it could
be got.

“No better illustration can be selected than Oransay Priory (Vol.
III. pp. 372-381). There the south cloister arcade, the door to the
church adjoining it, with the chapel projecting at the north-east
angle (and to these may be added the _Teampul na ghlinne_, on the
Colonsay side of the strand), are examples of rubble building, in
the local schist, where arches are turned and openings formed
without a trace of freestone or any material that could be hewn.
The portion of a mullion of transitional date found in the ruins
proves that freestone had been imported to the island by the close
of the twelfth century, and was in constant use thereafter.

“It would be a serious mistake, however, to place in the same
category the Island of Bute, where freestone (red) occurs locally,
and the best qualities of rock on the adjoining mainland. Freestone
was in common use with the Romans both for monumental work and
building, and it is precisely this simple splayed form of base
which is most frequently to be found. As to its use in Celtic work
there may be cited Cruggleton Chapel (Vol. I. pp. 212-215), about
three miles from Whitherne Priory, which by every criterion is
extremely primitive, much earlier than the priory, and also Celtic,
founded most probably by the Carrols or M‘Kerlies, who wrested the
castle from the Norse jarls. There the base, which has been laid on
the grass level, has a base course precisely similar to that of St.
Blane’s, with rubble above and below. In fact, the entire building
is rubble, except the dressed work and the chancel arch. It is not
freestone, but silurian grit, from the Stewartry shores. It is no
doubt later in date than St. Blane’s, but Bute is much more
favourably situated for freestone than Wigtonshire, where it is
locally non-existent, and the combination of rubble and hewn work
at Cruggleton is a striking testimony to the difficulty even of
obtaining grit.

“The second head refers to the mode in which the strings and base
courses would be stopped against the rubble. According to my
drawings there has been a string on the north side of the nave,
which dropped nearly two feet, has also run along the ashlar work
of the chancel, but only two feet or so of it remains. On the south
side this feature is entirely destroyed. The base, both on north
and south sides of the nave, returns round the chancel gable and
_there terminates_. Whether they were dropped also I cannot tell,
as these drawings were made previous to the later reduction of the
soil to the original level.[269] An important point in this
junction of rubble and ashlar walls must be noted, viz., that while
the ashlar walls are 2 feet 7 inches thick, the rubble wall on the
south side is only 2 feet 5 inches, and that on the north 2 feet 3
inches. The walls meet flush on the outside, and on the inside the
ashlar corner is splayed off in accommodation to the thinner
rubble, and those who managed thus would find no difficulty in such
trivialities as a string or a base.

“Under the third head it is queried whether the ‘_Norman_ builders’
were likely to show such tender mercy to a rubble fragment? I
presume ‘Norman’ here means _Anglo_-Norman, the conquering race,
who looked with contempt on all that pertained to those they held
in thrall. Civil changes notwithstanding, in Bute it was otherwise.
There the same traditions were handed down from Celt to Scot, and
the name of St. Blaan was reverenced, not merely on local grounds,
but as being still more intimately associated with a northern see.
The very curious _melange_ at the east end of the chapel is
attributed to one of those ‘accidents’ which, from a variety of
sources, often befel buildings in ancient times. The late Mr John
Baird, at a meeting of the Architectural Institute of Scotland held
in Glasgow a good many years ago, suggested that the original
termination had been an apse, but the chancel being found too
small, this feature was demolished and the building extended to its
present limits. Notwithstanding all that has been said, I consider
both the apse and the accident theories to be at once untenable and
unnecessary, and will, as briefly as possible, give three
_criteria_ on which I regard the proof of antecedency in date and
construction of the rubble work ultimately to depend, and to be
incontrovertible. First, in a rubble wall of any posterior date,
built to conjoin with a previous ashlar one, it is only reasonable
to suppose it would have been gauged to the same thickness, so that
the respective wall faces might be flush, both externally and
internally, so as to avoid the very awkward junction which there
really has been. Second, this rubble wall must necessarily have
been carried to the same height and level, in the wall-head, as the
ashlar built portion, instead of being dropped nearly three feet
below it, as the present rubble work really is. Third, the existing
Romanesque structure shows that freestone, both red and white, was
readily to be had by importation or otherwise in Bute, during the
twelfth century, and ever afterwards, and it is beyond all reason
and experience, that in the chancel especially rubble of some local
rock should have been adopted when the superior quality previously
in use could be so easily obtained.

“These three _criteria_ combined, the thinness (relatively) of the
rubble walling, the lower level of the wall-head, and the extreme
improbability of any subsequent builders being reduced to the
necessity of falling back on rubble, lead irresistibly to the
conviction that on this site there existed a much smaller and more
ancient chapel, of which the _sacrarium_, carefully respected by
all subsequent builders, now alone remains.”

At the special request of Mr. P. Macgregor Chalmers, author of the work _A Scots Mediæval Architect_, we insert in this Volume extracts, revised and approved by him, from his reply to our criticism contained in Vol. II. pp. 378-382, in the hope that they may be found to throw additional light on the late period of Scottish architecture. It must, however, be understood that we are not to be held as concurring in all Mr. Chalmers’ views. Our notice of his work was written after our second volume was to a large extent in type, and we should not have quoted Mr. Pinches’ reference to church building in Galloway in 1508 (p. 378), as Mr. Chalmers had already shown in his work that this was a mistake; and on the same page we should have acknowledged his labours on the Melrose inscriptions. Mr. Chalmers says:--

“You tabulate four formal objections to my work (p. 380). The first
appears to be that I have adopted a certain opinion, which differs
from yours; and you think my work is therefore a ‘fiction,’ a
‘romance,’ a ‘dream.’ The second objection, based on your
_inference_ that a man who had a Scots name was a Frenchman by
extraction, because he was born in Paris at a time when Scotsmen
were rife in France, need not be taken seriously. The answer to
your third and fourth objections is that I have _proved_, from
original documents quoted, that ‘Morow’ is ‘Murray,’ and that the
variation in spelling, indicated in the Melrose inscriptions, is
the variation for Murray. When you have grasped the importance and
significance of my deduction from the evident choice of Melrose for
the memorial inscriptions, I feel certain you will find more than
‘fiction’ in my work.

“I stated that the rood screen at Glasgow was erected by Archbishop
Blacader, and that it was probably begun about the year 1492. The
charter evidence is that the archbishop founded the two altars in
their present position in the base of the screen, and that he
founded the altar _for which the screen was erected_, the altar of
Holy Cross. As the screen encroaches considerably on the original
length of the choir, being of great depth from west to east, it is
natural to suppose that its erection would entail the remodelling
of the choir fittings. It was in the archbishop’s time, then, that
the new choir stalls were constructed. From the measurements given
in the contract for this work, between ‘the dene and cheptour of
Glasgw on the tapairt, and Mychell Waghorn, wrycht, on the toder
pairt,’ it is evident that the carved canopy work was carried as a
cornice across the east or choir side of the screen. Rejecting my
work, you state that the screen at Glasgow was probably built by
Bishop Cameron, who died in 1446. You have no charter evidence to
support you. You have only the mouldings and the sculpture of the
two periods to found your opinion upon. In the illustration I send
you (Fig. 1) I show the earlier mouldings at A and the later
mouldings of the screen at B. Students can now estimate the value
of your opinion. The only moulding in the aisle of Car Fergus, of
Blacader’s time, is the vaulting rib which I show at C. This, you
say, is a ‘coarse’ moulding. But the coarseness is not apparent
when you compare it with the rib in the

Mouldings of Rood Screen at St. Mungo’s.]

sacristy (D), of date about 1446; the rib in the chapter house (E),
of date about 1425; or the same rib in the lower church, of date
about 1240. You frequently give expression to your opinion that the
work executed in Scotland about the year 1500 was ‘inferior.’
Sweeping generalisations of this kind are of no value in our work.
I send you a process block (Fig. 2). It illustrates the carved boss
in the vaulting of the aisle of Car Fergus, of Blacader’s time,
being the very first seen on entering, and so close to the eye that
it may almost be touched by the hand. No work of any
period--certainly not of Bishop Cameron’s time--can excel it in
beauty, and it is only one of many equally beautiful. You state
that the work in the screen ‘is considerably superior to that of
the adjoining altars, which are _certainly_ by that bishop’
(_Archbishop_ Blacader). It is a fact that you are here comparing
work, which is as sharp as when it left the carver’s hand, with
work at the floor level which is now so worn and defaced as almost
to be obliterated. The altars are of different design, and that now
on the north side is of _earlier date_, and was rebuilt and
repaired only by the archbishop. If this single altar stood
originally in the centre, as the one of the same name did at
Durham, and if, as is not impossible, it was originally built by
Bishop Cameron, then you condemn as ‘inferior’ what, if you had
only known, you ought to praise as ‘superior.’

“Mr. Honeyman, whose early opinion you quote, writing to me, for my
use here, says, in reference to the Glasgow rood screen--‘I must
say that circumstances which you have brought to my notice have
considerably changed my opinion regarding this. I quite recognise
the close affinity of the south transept door at Melrose and the
rood screen at Lincluden, and I am quite prepared to believe that
the man who designed these, also designed the rood screen here. If
it can be proved that the work at Melrose and Lincluden was not
executed till about 1480, or later, then I shall feel bound to
agree with you as to the age of our screen.’ The proof as to the
age of the Melrose door has been given in my book.

“Your reliance on your unwise generalisation regarding the
‘inferior’ quality of _all_ work at the end of the fifteenth
century has blinded you to the facts at Melrose, as elsewhere. The
magnificent panel carved with the royal arms, of which I gave an
enlarged photograph (p. 55), is dated 1505. There is nothing finer
of its kind in the country, and the carved bosses in the presbytery
vault are remarkable for their rare beauty, and yet one of them
bears the arms of Margaret, wife of James IV. You state that ‘the
building or restoration of the eastern part of the edifice seems,
from its style, to have been carried out towards the middle of the
fifteenth century’ (p. 372). The further statement is made that
‘the design of the choir appears to have been borrowed from that of
the transept’ (p. 370). These statements are contradictory. The
south transept was not erected until after the middle of the
fifteenth century, by Abbot Andrew Hunter. His arms are to be found
carved on it, and also in the nave chapel, where the work is
unmistakeably from the hand of the same designer. It is indubitable
that the ‘perpendicular’ work was inserted in the older transept.
It has never occurred to you to endeavour to explain the presence
in Scotland

of so marked a type of English art _in the middle of the fifteenth
century_, and you have thought it wise to ignore my interpretation
that this style was adopted as an expression of the international
good feeling arising from the marriage of James IV. with Margaret
of England. Perpendicular work is also present at Linlithgow and
Stirling, and there also it is associated with Queen Margaret.

“I described the statues at the apex of the east gable at Melrose
as those of James IV. and Margaret (p. 53). You say ‘this is an
entire assumption’ (p. 381), and then you immediately _assume_ that
they illustrate the coronation of the Blessed Virgin. If your
interpretation is correct, the act of coronation must be indicated,
and the two figures must be correlated, Christ being turned towards
the Blessed Virgin, either to crown her by His own hand, or to
indicate His interest in the ceremony, whilst Mary is turned
towards Christ in an attitude of tenderness and adoration. These
are obvious requirements. The figures are so disposed in the
examples you cited and illustrated, and it is true of all the
examples I have studied on the Continent and in the cathedrals of
England. At Melrose the figures are not in any way related to each
other. They look straight forward, and, as I proved by the aid of a
telescope before writing my description, no act of crowning is
indicated. The male figure corresponds exactly with that on the
seal of James IV. to which I referred, and the group does not
differ from that shown in a MS. of the middle of the fifteenth
century, which represents a king and queen and their court. I
understand and appreciate the fact that you see no significance in
the angels in the niches below the central group of the king and
queen, and that it is of no importance to you that the figures
which were ranged on either side were not those of saints and
martyrs, but of Churchmen, evidently contemporaries of King James.
As the statue of an archbishop graces the apex of the east gable of
York Minster, there is nothing ridiculous, as you would wish to
make it appear, in a king and queen occupying a similar place at
Melrose. The circumstances and temper of the moment made it appear
appropriate. There is no sarcasm in the concluding paragraph of my
work, although you profess to be able to detect it. It was not
unpleasant to me to find that the point made by the author of _The
Stones of Venice_, from exactly similar exhibitions of vainglory,
could be made from the stones of Scotland.

P. MACGREGOR CHALMERS.”

TOPOGRAPHICAL INDEX OF BUILDINGS DESCRIBED IN THE WHOLE WORK.

ABERDEENSHIRE.

Aberdeen, King’s College Chapel ---- Greyfriars’ Church ---- St. Nicholas’ Aberdour, St. Drostan’s Auchendoir Church Deer Abbey Deer Parish Church Ellon Monument Insch Church Kinkell Church Kintore Church Leask, St. Adamnan’s Lonmay, St. Colm’s Monymusk Church Old Aberdeen, St. Machar’s Cathedral Peterhead, St. Peter’s Rattray, St. Mary’s Rathan Church Turriff Church

ARGYLESHIRE.

Ardchattan Priory Dunstaffnage Castle Chapel Eilean Munde, Lochleven Eilean Naomh Faslane Church Islay, Kilchieran Church ---- Kildalton Church ---- Kilnaughton Church ---- Kilneave Church Iona Cathedral and Priory ---- Nunnery Iona, St. Oran’s Inchkenneth, Ulva Kilmun Collegiate Church Kintyre, Cara Church ---- Gigha, St. Catan’s ---- Kiels, St. Columba’s ---- Kilchenzie Church ---- Kilchieven Church ---- Kilchouslan Church ---- Killean Church ---- Sanda, St. Ninian’s Knapdale, Eilean Mor ---- Kilbride Church ---- Kilmory Church ---- St. Carmaig’s, Keil Lismore Cathedral Mull, Laggan Church ---- Pennygowan Church ---- Inch Kenneth Oronsay Priory Tiree, Kilchenzie Church ---- Kirkapoll Church

AYRSHIRE.

Alloway Kirk Crosraguel Abbey Kilmaurs, Monument Kilwinning Abbey Kirkoswald Church Loudoun Church Maybole Collegiate Church Monkton, St. Cuthbert’s Old Dailly Church Prestwick, St. Nicholas’ Southannan Castle and Church Straiton Church

BANFFSHIRE.

Boyndie, St. Brandon’s Cullen Collegiate Church Deskford, Sacrament House Gamrie, St. John’s Mortlach, St. Moloc’s

BERWICKSHIRE.

Abbey St. Bathans’ Ayton Church Bassendean Church Bunkle Church Chirnside Church Cockburnspath Church Coldingham Priory Dryburgh Abbey Duns Church Edrom Church Greenlaw Church Ladykirk Church Lauder Church Legerwood Church Oldhamstocks Church Polwarth Church Preston Church St. Helen’s, Cockburnspath

BUTESHIRE.

Rothesay, St. Mary’s Abbey Rothesay Castle Chapel St. Blane’s Church

CAITHNESS-SHIRE.

Lybster, St. Mary’s Olrig Church

DUMBARTONSHIRE.

Dumbarton Collegiate Church Dumbarton Parish Church Kirkton of Kilmahew

DUMFRIESSHIRE.

Canonby Priory Kirkbride Church Moffat, St. Cuthbert’s Sanquhar Church

ELGIN OR MORAYSHIRE.

Altyre Church Birnie, St. Brandon’s Drainie Church Elgin Cathedral ---- Greyfriars’ Church Kinloss Abbey Michael Kirk Pluscardine Priory

FIFESHIRE.

Abdie Church Anstruther, Easter and Wester, Churches of Ballingry Church Balmerino Abbey Burntisland, St. Adamnan’s Carnock Church Crail, St. Macrubha’s Collegiate Church Creich, St. Devenic’s Cupar, St. Michael’s Dalgety, St. Bridget’s Dunfermline Abbey Dysart, St. Serf’s Fordel Chapel Inchcolm Abbey Inverkeithing, St. Peter’s Kemback Church Kilconquhar Church Kilrenny Church Leuchars Church Lindores Abbey Markinch Church Pittenweem Priory Rosyth Church St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory ---- Dominican Church ---- Holy Trinity ---- St. Mary’s, Kirkheugh ---- St. Leonard’s ---- St. Regulus’ or St. Rule’s ---- St. Salvator’s St. Monans Church

FORFARSHIRE.

Airlie Church Arbroath Abbey ---- Abbot’s House Auchterhouse, St. Mary’s Brechin Cathedral ---- Maison Dieu Dundee Church Eassie Church Invergowrie Church Lundie, St. Lawrence Mains Church Maryton Church Nevay Church Pert Church Restennet Priory St. Vigean’s Church

HADDINGTONSHIRE.

Dunbar, Redfriars’ Douglass, St. Mary’s Garvald Church Gladsmuir Church Gullane, St. Andrew’s Haddington, St. Martin’s ---- St. Mary’s Herdmanston, Font Keith, St. Maelrubba’s Luffness, Redfriars’ Morham Church Ormiston, St. Giles’ Pencaitland Church Prestonkirk, St. Baldred’s Prestonpans Church Seton Collegiate Church Stenton Parish Church Tynninghame Church Whitekirk Church Yester Parish Church ---- St. Bothan’s

INVERNESS-SHIRE.

Barra, St. Michael’s, Borve ---- Kilbar Beauly Priory Benbecula, Nuntown ---- St. Columba’s, Balivanich Harris, Sound of Pabba ---- Toehead Raasay, St. Moluac’s Rowdil, St. Clement’s Priory Skye, Kilmuir Skye, St, Maelrubba’s Font ---- Mugstot ---- Skeabost ---- Trumpan Uist, North, Carinish ---- South, Howmore

KINCARDINESHIRE.

Arbuthnott Collegiate Church Cowie Church Feteresso, St. Cavan’s Fordoun, St. Palladius’ Nigg, St. Fiacre’s

KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE.

Buittle, St. Colmonel’s Dalry, St. John’s Dundrennan Abbey Lincluden College New Abbey or Sweetheart Abbey Old Girthon Church Terregles Church Tungland Abbey

LANARKSHIRE.

Biggar Church Bothwell, St. Bride’s Blantyre Priory Carnwath Collegiate Church Covington, St. Michael’s Douglas, St. Bride’s Glasgow, St. Mungo’s Cathedral ---- Tron Spire Lamington Church Lanark, St. Kentigern’s Rutherglen, St. Mary’s Walston Church

LINLITHGOWSHIRE.

Abercorn Church Auldcathie Church Bathgate Church Dalmeny Church Kinneil Church Kirkliston Church Linlithgow, St. Michael’s Strathbroc, St. Nicholas’ Queensferry, South, Carmelites’ Church Torphichen Church Uphall, St. Nicholas’

MID-LOTHIAN.

Borthwick, St. Mungo’s Calder, East, St. Cuthbert’s Cockpen Church Corstorphine, St. John Baptist Crichton, St. Mary’s Dalkeith, St. Nicholas’ Duddingston Church Edinburgh Castle, St. Margaret’s Chapel ---- St. Anthony’s Chapel Edinburgh, St. Cuthbert’s Pulpit ---- St. Giles’ Collegiate Church ---- Trinity College Church Gogar, Font Holyrood Abbey Lasswade Church Mid-Calder Church Newbattle Abbey Ratho, St. Mary’s Restalrig, St. Triduan’s Rosslyn, St. Matthew’s Collegiate Church Stow Church Temple Church

ORKNEY.

Birsay, Brough of Deerness, Brough of Egilsey Church Enhallow Church Head of Holland Chapel Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay Linton Chapel, Shapinsay Orphir Church St. Ola, Kirkwall St. Magnus, Kirkwall St. Tredwell’s Chapel Swendro Church, Rousay Westray Chapel Wyre Church

PEEBLESSHIRE.

Lyne Church Newlands Church Peebles, Holy Cross Peebles, St. Andrew’s Stobo Church

PERTHSHIRE.

Aberdalgie, Monument Abernethy Round Tower Aberuthven, St. Cathan’s Alyth, St. Moloc’s Auchterarder Church Blair Church Cambusmichael Church Coupar Abbey Culross Abbey ---- Parish Church Dron Church Dunblane Cathedral Dunkeld Cathedral Dunning, St. Serf’s Ecclesiamagirdle Church Forgandenny Church Forteviot Church Foulis Easter, St. Marnan’s Grandtully, St. Mary’s Inchaffray Abbey Innerpeffray Collegiate Church Kinfauns Church Kinkell, St. Bean’s Kinnoull Church Meigle Church Methven Collegiate Church Moncrieff Chapel Muckersey Font Muthill Church Perth, St. John Baptist Stobhall Church Tullibardine Collegiate Church Wast-town Church Weem Church

RENFREWSHIRE.

Castle Semple Collegiate Church Houston Church Kilmalcolm Church Paisley Abbey Renfrew Church St. Fillan’s Church

ROSS-SHIRE.

Dun Othail, Lewis Eorrapidh, Lewis Fearn Abbey Flannain Isles, or Seven Hunters Fortrose Cathedral Holy Cross, South Galston, Lewis St. Aula, Gress, Lewis St. Columba’s, Ey, Lewis ---- Isle, Lewis St. John Baptist, South Bragair, Lewis St. Ronan, North Rona Tain, St. Duthus’ Teampull, Beannachadh ---- Pheadair, Lewis ---- Sula Sgeir Tigh Beannachadh, Lewis

ROXBURGHSHIRE.

Jedburgh Abbey Kelso Abbey Linton Church Melrose Abbey St. Boswell’s Church Smailholm Church

SELKIRKSHIRE.

Selkirk Church

SHETLAND.

Culbinsbrough, Bressay Kirkaby, Westing, Unst Meal, Colvidale, Unst Ness Kirk, North Yell Noss Chapel, Bressay St. John’s Kirk, Norwick, Unst Uya, Church at

STIRLINGSHIRE.

Airth Church Cambuskenneth Abbey Inchmahome Priory Stirling Parish Church

SUTHERLANDSHIRE.

Durness, Church of

WIGTONSHIRE.

Cruggleton Church Glenluce Abbey Kirkmaiden Church Leswalt Church St. Ninian’s, the Isle Wigton, St. Machutus’ Whithorn Priory

GENERAL INDEX

TO THE WHOLE WORK.

Abailard, II. 1.

Abb’s, St., Chapel, I. 437.

Abbey St. Bathans, description, III. 410.

Abdie, II. 218.

---- St. Magridin’s Church, II. 293.

Abercorn Church, I. 318, description, 346.

Aberdalgie, Monument at, II. 551.

Aberdeen Cathedral, I. 47, III. 6, 40, 117, 408; description, 75.

---- Carmelites, III. 469.

---- King’s College, II. 285, 445, 504, III. 234.

---- Greyfriars’ Church, description, III. 358.

---- St. Nicholas, description, I. 426.

Aberdour, Aberdeenshire, III., description, 535.

Aberdour Church, Fifeshire, III. 40, 318.

Abernethy Tower, I. 11, 15, 26, description, 175; II. 86, 209.

Aberuthven Church, description, III. 485.

Adamnan, I. 11.

---- St., Church of, Aberdeenshire, description, III. 387.

Aidan, St., I. 11.

Airlie Church, description, III. 452.

Airth Church, description, I. 465.

---- Castle, I. 465, 469.

Aldcamus Church, I. 325.

Alexander I., I. 29.

---- II. and III., I. 50.

Allen, J. Romilly, I. 2, 306.

Alloway Kirk, description, III. 393.

Alnwick, I. 47.

Altyre Church, II. 290.

Alyth Church, description, III. 487.

Amiens Cathedral, II. 65.

Anchorites, I. 1.

Ancient details revived, III. 52.

Anderson, Dr. Joseph, I. 2, 3, 66; II. 209, 210; III. 459.

Anderson, R. Rowand, architect, II. 92; III. 459.

Anstruther, Easter and Wester, description, III. 536-547.

Anthony, St., Chapel, description, III. 145.

Antiquaries of Scotland, I. 101; III. 623.

---- Society of, III. 381.

Apses and square east ends, II. 4; III. 2, 3.

Arbroath Abbey, I. 38, 47, 48, 49; II. 2, 3,
4, 218, 332, description, 30; III. 456, 459.

---- Abbot’s House, II. 49.

---- Regality Court House, II. 48.

Arbuthnott Church, II. 92; description, III. 235.

Arched Style of Building, I. 32.

Architecture, new development of, II. 1.

---- Scottish, of Fourteenth to Sixteenth centuries, I. 50.

---- division of, I. 53.

---- ceases to be like English, I. 52.

---- connection with French, I. 52.

---- gap in, II. 331.

Ardchattan Priory, II. 146, 245; description, III. 389.

Ardoilean, I. 8.

Armstrong, R. Bruce, I. 465; III. 431.

Aroise Abbey, Artois, France, II. 230.

Auchindoir Church, description, II. 281; III. 406.

Auchterarder Church, description, III. 488.

Auchterhouse, St. Mary’s, description, III. 541.

Augustine, St., I. 12.

Aula, St., Gress, Lewis, I. 83.

Auldcathie Church, description, III. 474.

Aytoun Church, description, III. 543.

Baberton House, III. 251.

Bairhum, Andrew, painter, I. 417.

Ballingry Church, description, III. 543.

Balmerino Abbey, II. 345, description, 505.

Bangor Monastery, I. 5.

Barrel vaults, II. 333; III. 2.

Bassendean Church, description, III. 412.

Bathgate Church, description, I. 474.

Batten, E. Chisholm, II. 147, 245, 395, 399, 402, 543.

Bays, design of, II. 4.

Beauly Priory, I. 289, 416, 417; II. 2, 146, 544, description, 245.

Bede, I. 12.

Beehive cells, I. 7, 24, 68.

Benedict Biscop, I. 12.

Beverley Minster, I. 54; II. 362.

Biggar Collegiate Church, description, III. 343.

Billings, R. W., II. 122, 389; III. 23, 43, 247.

Birnie, St. Brandon’s, description, I. 218; II. 121.

Birsay, Brough of, I. 135.

Black’s _Brechin_, II. 204, 215.

Blackadder’s Aisle, Glasgow, II. 165, 170; III. 4, 628.

Blair Church, Blair-Atholl, description, III. 544.

Blane’s, St., Bute, description, I. 292.

Blantyre Priory, description, III. 470.

Boniface, St., I. 14.

Border monasteries destroyed, II. 331.

Borthwick Church, III. 173, description, 214.

---- Castle, III. 173, 305.

Boswell’s, St., description, I. 377.

Bothwell Church (St. Bride’s), II. 333, description, 531; III. 173, 174.

---- Castle, III. 470.

Boyndie, St. Brandan’s, description, III. 545.

Brandon’s, St., Birnie, I. 218.

Brechin Cathedral, I. 49, 57; II. 3, 86, 223, description, 203.

---- Tower, I. 26, 48; II. 209.

---- Maison Dieu, I. 48; description, II. 215.