Chapter VIII: Part 8

the choir (Fig. 1244), and in those of the interior of the oriel windows in the great hall of Stirling Castle adjoining (Fig. 1245), at Torphichen, and other late churches; and in the capitals of the clustered jambs of the hall fireplaces in many castles throughout the country. It will be observed from Fig. 1243 that the nave aisles are vaulted with groined arches, while the central nave has a wooden roof.

The Plan (see Fig. 1238) shows that the two piers of the fifth bay from the west end of the nave consist of a semi-round attached to a square. These formed the west piers of the crossing. The next piers (the first in the choir) are, like the last, of large size, and suggest that a

central tower was contemplated, if not built. There was, over the crossing, an upper room known as the king’s room, from which the service could be seen. It was destroyed about the middle of this century. The room was reached by a wheel staircase in the north wall, where the door leading to it is still to be seen. This staircase is now filled with the chimney flues of a heating apparatus. The bay between the tower piers is arched with round arches, which are now almost concealed, this part of the church being occupied with modern staircases, vestries, and gallery. A round arch also spanned the church between the eastmost of the two piers of the crossing. The latter arch was taken down about the year

1869, thus destroying the room above, and the pier was enlarged. From the enlarged part a pointed arch was thrown across, thus sacrificing the beauty and fitness of the church, in order to introduce a small gallery. About the same time the interior stone work was, unfortunately, redressed.

Fig. 1247, together with the view from south-west, above referred to, gives some idea of the effect of the apse and the picturesque appearance of the church as seen from the north-east. The south side of the building

has been lamentably injured by a kind of great porch or transept erected in the centre, which gives access to the two churches into which the edifice is now divided.

Of the building of the east end or choir interesting particulars are given in the Register of Dunfermline. In the year 1507 an agreement was entered into between James Beaton, Abbot of Dunfermline, and the Town Council and community of Stirling, wherein it is stated that the latter having “takin apon hand to big and compleitlie edifye, and end ane gud and sufficient queyr conformand to the body of the peroch kirk of the said burght,” they were to deliver to the abbot the “body” of the parish church (that is the west end or nave) to be used by the Convent as a “queir ay and quhill the said queyr now to be biggit, be fully and compleitlie biggit and endit.” Under this arrangement the Convent was to

pay £200 Scots, and to provide all the ornaments necessary for the high altar and for the upholding of the same, and promised infeftment yearly

of 40s. Scots. On the other hand, the Council agree to uphold the queir perpetually in all things “swa that the hie alter thair sall be honestly and honourably uphalding in the said ornaments as thai resceve the samyn thairto fra the said abbot and Convent.” By the year 1520 the work appears to have proceeded so far that a service, by order of the Provost and Bailies, was held in the choir, but it does not appear to have been then quite finished, as in 1523 Robart Arnot, “Maister of the kirk wark,” is ordered to make payment for timber for the queir.[127] The choir (see Fig. 1247) consists of three bays with north and south aisles, and an eastern apse of five sides. The latter is applied like an oriel window to the east end of the church, somewhat in the same way as the apse of St. Michael’s, Linlithgow. It is wider than the central division of the choir, and fits on awkwardly to it, causing the two side divisions of the apse to be lost to view when one looks from the west end (see Fig. 1246). The vaulting of the apse is managed in a peculiar manner, arches being introduced

on each side in order to bring the central space into a form as nearly a parallelogram as possible, and thus enable it to be covered with a pointed barrel vault, strengthened with small ribs.[128] The mullions of the apse are treated somewhat like perpendicular work.

The side aisles are vaulted with stone, and the tracery is modern. The piers are of an ordinary late section (see Fig. 1244), and the details recall the later work of St. Giles’, Edinburgh. The caps are of the character of many late Scottish buildings, such as St. Giles’ and St. Michael’s (choir), the abacus containing a number of straight members, while the bed moulding breaks round the mouldings of the piers. The small shreds

of foliage introduced are very peculiar. The bases also recall some of the above buildings. There is no triforium, and the clerestory windows, which are round-headed, are brought down to the string course immediately over

South-East Corner of St. Andrew’s Chapel.]

the arches of the main arcade.

At the north-west corner of the church there was a small chapel (now removed), with a wide opening into the church. It had a vaulted roof, which abutted against the clerestory. Half buried in the ruins of this chapel is the recess of what appears to have been a piscina. The chapel is called Queen Margaret’s, and is supposed to have been built by James IV. in honour of his queen.

Another chapel dedicated to St. Andrew, at the north-east end of the nave, is still entire. This chapel (Fig. 1248), which till within the last

North Window of St. Andrew’s Chapel.]

few months was private property, has been handed over to the keeping of the authorities of Stirling, and is now, for the first time for many years, if not centuries, made accessible to the public, so that drawings of the interior can now be made. The partition which closed the access to the chapel from the church still remains, and a door which was cut through the east wall at the time the partition was put up is still in use, but these alterations are not shown on the Plan (Fig. 1248).[129]

The chapel measures about 15 feet 9 inches in length, and has a width of about 12 feet from the north wall. Its height from the original floor to the apex of the roof is about 15 feet 8 inches. It enters from the church by a round

arched opening about 10 feet wide (Fig. 1249), with splayed and notched jambs and arch, the jambs having a very simple moulded cap (Fig. 1250).

This opening is not in the centre of the chapel. There are a north and a west window. The former (Fig. 1251) is pointed, and is divided by mullions into three lights, and retains the original tracery. Fig. 1252 shows the section of the mouldings of the arch and jambs. The window

Durham of Mollet. Durham and Murray.

FIG. 1254.--Stirling Parish Church. Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.]

in the west wall is square lintelled, and has a straight sconsion arch (see Fig. 1249). This chapel exhibits, in small space, three methods of

Founder’s Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.]

covering an opening, the architect being apparently indifferent as to which was used, so that it served the purpose.

The chapel is groined in the ordinary manner, the masonry being, as usual, very fine. The ribs are all of the same general section (Fig. 1253, A A), but each set is slightly different in size, the diagonals being the largest. There are no wall ribs. The details of the carved bosses at the intersections are shown in Fig. 1253, B. A stone bench runs

Arms and Initials in St. Andrew’s Chapel.]

along the west side only.

There is a roughly formed square recess, about 12 inches wide (see Fig. 1248), in the north wall near the east end, and in the east wall at the south-east corner (see Plan and Fig. 1250) there is an ogee-headed recess, about 7 inches high by 5 inches wide and 2½ inches deep, at about 3 feet 6 inches from the floor. There are recesses somewhat similar to the latter at Paisley Abbey.

St. Andrew’s Chapel was erected by Duncan Forrester of Garden, Knight, whose initials are cut on the lintel of the west window (see Fig. 1253, C), and his arms, together with a saltier for St. Andrew, are carved on the centre boss (see Fig. 1253, B). The name of Duncan Forrester occurs in charters

Details of Niche in St. Andrew’s Chapel.]

relating to Stirling in 1479 and onwards for a period of forty years. He was provost of the town of Stirling, and appears to have been a liberal benefactor to this church. As shown on the Plan there are three interesting grave slabs in the chapel. One of these, of the date 1584, contains the arms of Durham of Grange (Fig. 1254); but as no member of that family had A. D. as initials at that period, the monument may probably have belonged

Stirling Parish Church. Exterior Base.]

to the Durhams of Mollet, one of whom, with the above initials, married Eliz. Murray. This would correspond with the initials and lower shield on the slab (see Fig. 1254) in which the Durham and Murray arms are impaled. The adjoining slab exhibits six shields. One of these contains the founder’s arms (Fig. 1255), and another a curious figure arranged saltier-wise. Nothing can be determined as to the carving on the other shields. The remaining slab contains the arms and initials of Duncan Forrester (Fig. 1256), possibly the son of the founder, and the Erskine arms with the initials M. E. A consecration cross is shown (see Fig. 1253), which is carved on the north wall of the chapel.

In Fig. 1257 are shown detached portions of a niche, including the canopy and corbel, lying on the floor. The exterior base of the church, which is partly returned round the west side of this chapel, is shown in Fig. 1258.

There were north and south doorways to the nave, opposite each other, in the second bay from the west. The south one had a large porch, now destroyed.

The tower, which is oblong in plan, measures about 31 feet from north to south by about 22 feet from east to west, and, according to Mr. Ronalds, it is 85 feet high to the top of the parapet, and 15 feet more to the apex of the spirelet. It is quite evident that it has been built at two periods. The lower part, judging from the window mouldings and what remains of the base of the west door, is contemporary with the church, or of early fifteenth century work. The upper part is contracted to nearly a square of about 25 feet on Plan, there being a balcony on the north and one on the south (see Fig. 1239). A turret stair in the north-west corner gives access from the church to the top. This tower, especially as seen from the west, is very picturesque, where the long unbroken line of the stair turret contrasts beautifully with recessed outlines of the other corner (see Fig. 1248).

This tower is amongst the best specimens of the Scottish architecture of the sixteenth century, as applied to ecclesiastical structures.

TULLIBARDINE CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE.

This edifice, which is unused, although in an almost perfect state of preservation, is situated about six miles south from Crieff. It “was founded in honour of our Blessed Saviour, for a provost and several prebendaries, by Sir David Murray of Tullibardine, ancestor of the Duke of Athol, in

Arms of Sir David Murray in Chancel.]

the year 1446.”[130] Sir David died the same year and was buried in the church, where his arms (Fig. 1259) still remain on the interior of the north side of the choir, quartered with those of his wife Isobel, second daughter of Sir John Stewart of Innermeith and Lorn. The lady’s arms, it will be observed, occupy the first and fourth quarters.

This is one of the few collegiate churches in Scotland which were entirely finished and still remain unaltered. It is of a cruciform plan (Fig. 1260) and has a small western tower entering from the church by a narrow doorway. The building measures internally from east to west along the south side 62 feet 1½ inches, and along the north side 64 feet 6½ inches by 18 feet 5½ inches in breadth, and the walls are 14 feet 3 inches high from the floor to the wall head. The measurements over the transepts are 64 feet 5 inches from north to south, by 15 feet 10 inches in width (inside measure). The tower is a small apartment of 6 feet 11 inches by 4 feet 9 inches.

There are two entrances, one being at the west end of the south wall (Fig. 1261). It is round-arched with a bead and hollow moulding and a rude string cap. The other is a plain lintelled doorway in the north transept.

In each of the north and south walls of the transept there is a traceried window, the one to the south (Fig. 1262) having three lights and the other (Fig. 1263) two lights. The walls are of considerable thickness, and the tracery is well recessed (Fig. 1264) and gives, in consequence,

a massive and substantial appearance to the otherwise well designed windows.

The other windows are simple and such as are found in castles and minor churches. That adjoining the entrance to the south transept is interesting from having its sconsion arch (Fig. 1265) neatly constructed so as to die away upon the splay. In the west gable there are two narrow windows. The lintels of these, instead of being level, lie at the same angle as the slope of the gable, and just a little below it (Fig. 1266). A similar kind of window may be observed at Dunblane at the east end of the room over the north aisle of the choir. The transepts each open from the church by a segmental arch (see Fig. 1265), springing from splayed

responds, having moulded bases and caps (Fig. 1267). From the floor to the top of the caps measures 8 feet 2 inches, and the arch has a rise of 2 feet 10 inches, in a width of 11 feet 9½ inches. It is difficult to say how the roof at this part was finished originally. The present roof at the east end is of considerable antiquity, having timbers about 6 inches square, but the part resting on the transept arch is comparatively modern. That it was not finished as it is now is almost certain, as there appears to have been a gable over the arch, separating the transept roofs from the main roof.

There are several ambries in the church. The one at the east end of the south wall is handsome (Fig. 1268), having a pointed ogee arched

head, with bead and hollow mouldings and bases wrought in the hollows. In the east jamb of the south transept arch (see Plan and Fig. 1265) there is a narrow arched recess about 6½ inches wide by 3½ inches in depth.

The east end of the church appears to have been covered with tapestry, as the laths for attaching it to are still in position on the walls. At the west wall and the end walls of the transepts the pieces securing the feet of the rafters are brought down the walls flush with the face, and would also afford facilities for hanging tapestry.

A peculiar feature of the church is the rise of the floor at the west end by two steps. The steps appear to be original, and may possibly be in connection with a burial vault beneath.

In the exterior of the north wall of the transept (see Fig. 1263) are inserted two shields. The one over the doorway (Fig. 1269) contains the arms of Murray of Tullibardine--three stars within a double tressure,

flowered and counter-flowered. The other contains the arms of Sir William Murray of Tullibardine (son of Sir David, the founder of the College) impaled with those of his wife Margaret, daughter of Sir John Colquhoun of Luss. On the skew stones (Fig. 1270), which are peculiarly shaped, the star is frequently wrought.

In the west wall of the tower there is a niche (Fig. 1271) with a canopy and bracket. If it ever was adorned with a figure it is now empty, and the figure has disappeared. Beneath the niche there is a

small round opening, a kind of spy hole or shot hole from the tower, which was doubtless a place of security.

We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson for assistance in connection with this Sketch.]

Window in West Gable.]

Tullibardine Church.

Jamb of Transept Arch.]

Ambry at East End of South Wall.]

Arms on Exterior of North Transept.]

Skew Stone.]

Tullibardine Church.

Niche in Tower.]

COLLEGIATE CHURCH, MAYBOLE.

The ancient town of Maybole, which is situated on the side of a hill about nine miles south from Ayr, was formerly the capital of Carrick, and contained the castle of the Earl of Cassillis[131] and the town houses of the lairds of the district. Being within two miles of Crosraguel Abbey and having a collegiate establishment within the town, the ecclesiastical

element would not be wanting in the society of the place. At the Reformation the house of the provost was the scene of a celebrated debate between John Knox and Quentin Kennedy, Abbot of Crosraguel, in September 1561.

The college stands on gently sloping ground near the base of the hill on which the town is situated, and is now enclosed within the streets.

In 1371 a chapel was founded in Maybole by Sir John Kennedy of Dunure, and endowed for one clerk and three chaplains. This was probably the earliest foundation of the kind established in Scotland, but it had many successors as collegiate churches in the following century.

In Abercrummie’s description of Carrick,[132] written in the end of the seventeenth century, the collegiate church is mentioned as being still entire, “being now used as the burial-place of the Earl of Cassillis, and other gentlemen who contributed to the putting of a roofe upon it, when it was decayed.” It is further mentioned that the “Colledge consisted of a rector and three prebends, whose stalls are all of them yet extant, save the rector’s.”

The houses or “stalls” of the prebends are now all gone, and the church is again roofless. The freestone has been taken away from many of the buttresses, and the tracery of the windows is broken and most of the windows built up.

The church as it now stands (Fig. 1272) consists of a simple oblong 52 feet long by 18 feet wide internally, but there are evidences of its having been altered. There was a small sacristy on the north side, with a good pointed doorway leading into the church.

Both in the north and south walls (Fig. 1273) of the edifice there is a very narrow pointed and cusped window, which does not correspond with the other details of the building, and close to the narrow window in the south wall there is a dressed corner, now built against, which seems to indicate a complete change in the structure at this point. The east window and the two windows adjoining it in the north and south sides still retain part of their tracery (Fig. 1274), which is of a late character. A recess with pointed arch-head for a tomb or an Easter sepulchre in the north wall of the choir (Fig. 1275) contains mouldings enriched with imitations of the dog-tooth, and the arches of the south-west doorway (see Fig. 1273) have also similar dog-tooth ornaments. The church having been founded in 1371, when the first pointed period (to which the dog-tooth belongs) had long passed away, there can be no doubt of the above ornaments being very late revivals, even if the style of their execution did not make that apparent.

The south-west doorway is, however, a good late _adaptation_ or imitation of a thirteenth century design, like other imitations of early work which were common during the third pointed period. The doorway is surmounted by a shield bearing the Kennedy arms.

The west end (see Fig. 1273) has a buttress in the centre, while in the inside opposite it the recess of a built up window is observable (see Plan), thus further indicating alteration. It seems probable that the church was originally small, and the narrow windows, above referred to, may possibly be remains of the original fabric. Then at a later date the

structure was probably enlarged and partly rebuilt, when the enlarged traceried windows, the recess in the choir, and the south-west doorway--all of which are undoubtedly late--were introduced. This may have occurred about A.D. 1500. The ruined sacristy still retains its barrel vault (Fig. 1276).

Abercrummie further says--“On the north syde of the kirk is the buriall place of the laird of Colaine within ane enclosure of new square-stone lately built.” This enclosure remains, and its architecture corresponds with the date mentioned, viz., seventeenth century. The entrance doorway (see Fig. 1276) is elaborate, but considerably decayed, and over

it a large shield bears the Kennedy arms, impaled with another. The church itself is now used as a burial ground by certain families of the name of Kennedy.

BIGGAR COLLEGIATE CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE.

The town of Biggar lies in a valley in the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, through which communication is obtained between the upper reaches of the Clyde and the Tweed. From an early period Biggar was a rectory in the Deanery of Lanark. The parson of Biggar is mentioned in deeds of the twelfth century, and several of the rectors held important appointments at Court.

In 1545 the Church of St. Nicholas was founded and endowed by Malcolm, Lord Fleming, the Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. The charter of foundation still exists. It was addressed by Lord Fleming to Cardinal Beaton, and states that the church was to be erected in honour of the Holy Trinity, the Blessed Virgin Mary, St. Nicholas the patron of Biggar, and St. Ninian. The purpose of the foundation was to support a provost, eight canons or prebendaries, four singing boys, and six poor nuns, and the presentations and endowment of these officials were reserved to the Lord Fleming. The special duties of the prebendaries were as follow:--The first prebendary was to instruct the singing boys in music, the second was to be master of the grammar school, the third was to act as sacristan--to ring the bell, to light the tapers on the four altars, and to attend to the vestments and ornament thereof--and the fourth prebendary had charge of the poor nuns and gave them their allowances. A hospital was to be provided for the poor nuns, and suitable houses were to be erected for the provost and canons.

During the progress of the work, Malcolm, Lord Fleming, died. The building was carried on by his son, and scarcely completed before the Reformation supervened to interrupt the work.[133]

This church (Fig. 1277), like many of the collegiate edifices erected prior to this time, is cruciform in plan, consisting of chancel with apsidal east end, transept, and nave, with square tower over the crossing. There are no aisles in any part of the church.

It is supposed by Grose (who saw the building more than 100 years ago, before it was restored) that the nave, which is built with whinstone rubble work, was probably part of an original church which was enlarged by Lord Fleming, by the addition of a transept and chancel. This may have been the case, but the nave is now so completely altered and modernised that it is impossible to say. The chancel, transept, and tower

over the crossing are evidently of a different period from the nave, being all built with freestone ashlar.

The total length of the structure internally is 112 feet by 20 feet

4 inches in width, but about 24 feet have been cut off the west end of the nave so as to form a lobby and staircase to a gallery and a vestry at the west end. A south-west porch gives access to these places. Formerly the

chapter house existed on the north side of the chancel, but it was removed, and a new vestry is now erected in its place.

The principal entrance into the collegiate church was by a round arched doorway in the south wall of the transept (Fig. 1278), and it is believed that there was also a door in the west end. A small wheel staircase in the south-east angle of the north transept leads to the roof and tower, and also to an organ gallery in the north transept. The top of the stair turret, as seen in the view, is modern.

The exterior, as viewed from the south-east (Fig. 1279), has a good

Details of Doorway in South Transept.]

effect, with the square battlemented tower rising boldly above the buttressed chancel and transept. The windows are all pointed and filled with simple tracery, and the buttresses are of simple but good design, having a broad water table on top, and no pinnacles.

The windows are each set in a rectangular recess, which, although a novelty, cannot be said to to be an improvement. It is in keeping with the square forms of the Renaissance then being introduced. The arches and jambs have triple splays. The doorway in the south transept is a little more ornamental. The arch is round, as very usual in Scotland, and there are two recessed arches, the inner one moulded and the outer having enriched caps (Fig. 1280).

The tower contains a room on the first floor with a fireplace, and over it is the belfry.

It is understood that the ancient roof was of oak, and that the timbers in the chancel were gilt and emblazoned, doubtless with the arms of the Flemings, who were buried there.

The interior (Fig. 1281) has been greatly remodelled, but the principal arches at the crossing are preserved. The roof being of timber, the arches

of the transepts are carried well up, and the windows are also of good size, so that the church is well lighted, and forms, in this respect, a striking contrast to Ladykirk and similar vaulted structures.

After the Reformation the offices and emoluments passed into the hands of laymen.

CARNWATH CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE.

Carnwath is situated about two miles west from Carstairs Junction.

The original foundation of this church dates from a very early time. In the middle of the twelfth century it was bestowed by William de Sumerville on Glasgow Cathedral, which grant was confirmed by Pope Alexander III. in 1170. The existing building is, however, of much more recent date. It formed the north wing of the parish church, and was added after a Collegiate foundation had been erected in 1425 by Thomas, first Lord Somerville, for a provost and six prebendaries, and is thus

described in the _Memoire of the Somervilles_, written about the end of the seventeenth century:--“The yle itself is but little, however neatly and conveniently built opposite the middle (on the North side) of the church; all aisles, both within and without, haveing pinickles upon all the corners, wherein are engraven, besydes other imagerie the armes of the Somervills and Sinclaires (the family of the wife of the founder), very discernable to the occular aspectione, albeit it be two hundereth and fyfie-eight years since they were placed there.”[134]

The parish church, which formerly consisted of chancel, nave, and transept, has been removed, and there now only remains a portion of the north transept, which has been used as the burial-place of the Lords Carnwath-Somerville till the latter half of the seventeenth century, and the Lockharts since then.

The building (Fig. 1282) stands north and south, and measures about 25 feet long by 22 feet 6 inches wide (externally). The style (Fig. 1283)

is generally like that of the contemporary churches of Scotland; but the large north window is remarkable from having a closer affinity than usual with the English perpendicular. In order to carry the heavy stone roof, shown in the sketch, the building is covered with a pointed barrel vault such as is generally employed for this purpose; and, as frequently happens, the vault is divided into bays, and is ornamented with decorative ribs springing from shafts attached to the wall. Some of the caps bear the arms of the founder and his spouse. The vaulting gives rise to the massive buttresses employed, and to the depressed form of the two-light square-headed side windows on each side, one of which is seen in the sketch.

The building having been restored, several new features have been added. Thus the belfry on the south gable and the cross on the north gable are modern. The north doorway under the large window is also an insertion, but is believed to have been formed with the stones of the old doorway of the church. The pinnacles referred to in the above quoted description still exist (although partly restored), but the coats of arms on the buttresses are no longer visible. The outline of the arch in the south gable, which formerly opened from the transept into the church, can still be traced (see Plan).

The interior contains a fine altar-tomb, bearing the recumbent figures of Hugh, Lord Somerville, who died in 1549, and his second wife, Janet, daughter of William Maitland of Ledington, who died about 1550. Lord Hugh was a great favourite of James V., who frequently visited him at his Castle of Cowthally.

In the churchyard of Carnwath there is another recumbent effigy, apparently of older date, but its history is unknown.

CASTLE SEMPLE COLLEGIATE CHURCH, RENFREWSHIRE.

This somewhat remarkable structure stands in the midst of beautiful woodland scenery, on a gentle acclivity above Lochwinnoch, near the point at the north end where the Black Cart flows from the loch.

A collegiate church was founded on this site, and endowed in 1504

by John, first Lord Sempill, near his own residence of Castle Semple. The establishment consisted of a provost, six chaplains, two boys, and a sacristan. The church (Fig. 1284) measures within the walls 66 feet in length by 19 feet in width. The building is a simple oblong, terminating toward the east in a three-sided apse, and having a square tower projecting from the centre of the west wall.

The style of the east end (Fig. 1285) is very remarkable. The forms of the double windows indicate plainly that they are very late survivals of spurious Gothic work, and a close examination of the building tends to confirm this view. The other windows in the side walls have been greatly altered, but they do not present any features at all like those of the apse. Over the door to the chancel are two coats of arms with the letters R. L. S. and A. M. S., the dexter shield bearing the Sempill arms and the sinister the Montgomerie. The square tower at the west end (Fig. 1286) is extremely simple, and has no analogy with the work at the east end.

Castle Semple Collegiate Church.

Slab to Gabriel Sempill.]

There can be little doubt that the tower and most of the side walls are of about the date of the original foundation, while the east apse has been added in the sixteenth century, to receive the monument of John, Lord Sempill, who fell at Flodden in 1513. A few remains of the original square-headed windows in the side walls are still traceable.

The interior has, within recent times, been divided by two solid walls into three compartments, so as to form separate private burial-places, and this operation seems to have caused the further alteration and building up of the side windows.

In the eastern compartment stands, against the north wall, the large monument to Lord Sempill (Fig. 1287), which bears the following inscription:--

· · · JOHN · LORD · SEMPIL ANDE · HIS · LAYDI · D · · · MARGARITA · · ·

It must have been erected after 1513, and shows the last expiring effort of the Gothic decorative spirit. The cusped half-arch half-lintel is a kind of compromise between the Gothic and Renaissance, and the exuberant foliage of the upper portion shows late Gothic forms run wild.

The architecture of the apse windows corresponds in extravagance with that of the monument.

A monumental slab in the central compartment (Fig. 1288) is erected in memory of “Gabriel Sempel,” who died in 1587. This shows the style

Carved Stone.]

of lettering which was in use about that time, together with the Sempill arms.

A carved stone (Fig. 1289) (from a sketch by Mr. William Galloway), which seems to have been the socket of a cross, stands in the building, and was perhaps used at one time as a font. It is octagonal in form, and has an oblong sinking in the centre.

GREYFRIARS’ CHURCH,[135] ELGIN.

The mendicant orders were introduced into Scotland by Alexander II. (1214-49), who is stated to have founded eight convents for Dominicans, but only two for Franciscans. From an old undated charter it is believed that the latter order was established in Elgin under Alexander III., but their original monastery appears to have fallen into decay. It was, however, revived under James I. (1424-37) for the order of Observantines introduced into Scotland by that king.

Their first convent was in Edinburgh, where these friars were established in 1446. This convent was followed by one in St. Andrews, and a third house was settled at Aberdeen in 1450. The order then extended to Elgin, where it was introduced by John Innes, a member of a well-known Morayshire family, in 1479. The Franciscans, having no rentals to be taxed and no lands to alienate, probably fled when the Reformation came. Their convent was plundered by Montrose, but the church was not demolished, and still stands with its four walls complete, though sadly damaged. The domestic buildings have been obliterated or converted to modern uses.

The church (Fig. 1290) is a simple oblong structure, 110 feet in length by 22 feet in width internally. It had an entrance door for the public in the north wall, near the west end. From the marks in the wall above it (Fig. 1291) there seems to have been a wooden porch or awning over the doorway.

The church has been well lighted with large traceried windows (see Fig. 1291) in the east and west end walls, and with six side windows in

the north wall and one in the south wall. Each of the end windows had three mullions with intersecting tracery in the arch, and the side windows were all divided into two lights by a central mullion, with two curved divisions in the arch. Near the centre of the building, and on both sides, there occur two small windows, one over the other, the lower one being single with ogee head, and the upper one having a central mullion. These windows have evidently been for the purpose of lighting the rood screen and loft. The lower windows would light the space under the rood loft, where there was no doubt an altar, and the upper windows the gallery or space over the screen. The corbels which carried the loft can still be traced on both sides of the church. A piscina in each of the side walls, close to the screen, shows that there were altars placed against it. In the north window, adjoining the screen, there is a stone sink, probably used by the priests as a lavatory. At the east end of the church there is an ambry in each of the side walls, and a window in the south wall to light the sanctuary. Under it is a recess, probably used as a sedilia. The conventual buildings have evidently been built to the south of the church. The junctions of four walls forming buildings on two sides of a courtyard still remain, and in the south wall of the church, between the above, may be observed the corbels which carried the roof of the cloister walk. There are also two doors from this side into the church. The structure is of a plain and simple style, corresponding to the character of the mendicant friars who occupied it. It was doubtless erected soon after the Observantines were introduced in 1479, and bears the character of the architecture of the period.

After the Reformation the church was no longer used for service. Criminal Courts sat in it till the middle of the seventeenth century, and it also served as a place of meeting of the crafts or trades in Elgin. Afterwards it became a place for Episcopal services, and it is now the property of the Convent of St. Mary of Mercy.

GREYFRIARS’ CHURCH, ABERDEEN.

This structure, which took the place of an older one, was built by the well-known prelate Bishop Gavin Dunbar[136] at his own expense, between the years 1518 and 1532. Its architect was Alexander Galloway, parson

of Kinkell, a well-known Churchman, who is specially referred to in the description of the later church. This church was dedicated to the Virgin. At the Reformation it was bestowed on Marischal College, and was thereafter known as the College Kirk. It was at first an oblong structure (Fig.

1292)[137] with massive buttresses, but in 1768 the north projection was built, and the length of the church was reduced by 20 feet,[138] and probably

Carved Bench End.]

the west end (shown in Fig. 1293) was then erected. There was formerly a spire or steeple, probably at the west end. The church now extends to six bays in the length (Fig. 1294), divided by buttresses, and having a pointed window in each bay. It is fitted up with galleries in the most incongruous style, but has several good examples of carved bench ends and other wood-work (Fig. 1295).

The chief feature of the building is the east end (Figs. 1296 and 1297), with its immense window, one of the largest examples of tracery now remaining in Scotland. It is divided into seven lights, and although it is of the simplest design, being merely a series of intersecting arches, an agreeable variety is obtained by stopping several of the bars near the top from running their full course, and thus obtaining larger openings, which contrast with the others of smaller size. A similar kind of design was very frequent in

Window in East End.]

late work in Scotland, but none of the other examples possess the size and elegance of this one. The delicate detail of its slightly arched transome is noteworthy. The buttresses (see Fig. 1297) also are of a good form; indeed, it is remarkable, considering its lateness, how pure and simple the details are.

In the process of extending the college, it was contemplated to demolish this church, but fortunately, we believe, that intention has been abandoned.

THE PRIORY CHURCH OF ST. CLEMENT, ROWDIL, HARRIS, INVERNESS-SHIRE.

Amongst the numerous remains of ancient ecclesiastical structures still surviving in the Western Isles, the Church of St. Clement, situated near the south point of Harris, holds a prominent place, being one of the very few ancient structures in that region which are not ruinous, and are still in use for public worship.

The origin of the church is uncertain, but it is supposed to have been originally founded by an emissary from Iona, and to have fallen into decay during the occupation of the Norsemen. It is thought that the necessities of the monastery, thus arising, were probably relieved by David I. “from the revenues of the newly instituted Abbey of Holyrood House,” and that this may have given the monks of the latter the claim to St. Clement’s, which they afterwards substantiated.[139]

It is agreed amongst writers on the subject[140] that the church was restored or rebuilt by Sir Alexander M‘Leod, Rector of Harris, who seems to have used the materials of an older building in the restoration. This is evident from the random manner in which some carved figures are built into the walls of the west tower.

Mr. Ross points out that Alaster Crotach or Humpback had, in 1498, a charter from King James IV. for the hereditary lands of Ardmanich, &c., and that he was succeeded by his son William, who died in 1553.

The _Old Statistical Account_ informs us that the church was repaired by the said Alexander M‘Leod, who died (as the inscription on his tomb in the church bears) in 1527.

Of the domestic buildings of the priory not a stone now remains. The church was burnt and was repaired in “1784 by the late patriotic Alex. M‘Leod, Esq., of Harris. After the church was roofed and slated, and the materials for furnishing it within laid up in it to a considerable value, it unfortunately took fire at night through the carelessness of the carpenters, who had left a live coal in it among the timbers. So zealous, however, was this friend of religion and mankind in his design of repairing it, that by his orders and at his expense it was soon after this accident roofed, and it is now [1794], though left unfinished since the time of his death, used as one of the principal places in the parish for celebrating divine service.”

The church was again repaired in 1787. About 1866 it had once more become dilapidated, and was repaired under the supervision of Mr. Alexander Ross, architect, Inverness, to whose kindness we are indebted for permission to use the description and illustrations in his

article on St. Clement’s in the _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, above referred to.

The building is chiefly remarkable from containing an elaborately sculptured monument to Alexander M‘Leod of Dunvegan or Harris.

The structure (Fig. 1298) is small and is cruciform in plan. It has a square tower at the west end, the full width of the nave, which is founded on a rock at a higher level than the nave (Fig. 1299).

The choir is not architecturally distinguished from the nave, and the whole building is 61 feet in length (internally) by 15 feet in width.

It has a square east end, and is lighted by a large traceried east window, and by two small windows in the side walls. The former is

pointed, and is divided by two mullions into three lights. The tracery in the arch-head consists of a circle divided by six radiating bars.

The church (Fig. 1300) has two square-headed windows and two pointed windows in the south wall, and one square and one round-headed window in the north wall (Fig. 1301), and the entrance doorway, which is in the north wall, is also square lintelled.

The transept consists of a north and south chapel, which are not exactly opposite one another. They have square-headed windows in the north, south, and east walls. Each chapel is entered from the nave by a moulded and pointed arch (see Figs. 1300 and 1301) springing from responds. The latter have both in their section and caps (Fig. 1302) a certain resemblance to Norman work. As pointed out by Mr. Muir, the details indicate the second pointed period, “though, as in the mouldings at Iona, the adoption of forms resembling Norman and first pointed has given to it an appearance of greater antiquity.”

The monuments are the most remarkable features in the building. These are three in number, two of them being placed against the south wall, one in the choir and one in the nave (see Fig. 1300) on either side of the arch leading into the south transept. The third monument is at the south end of the south transept.

The monument in the choir is the most elaborate, being specially rich in sculpture. Its form (Fig. 1303) is peculiar, having, in addition to the usual recessed arch, a sloping gable-shaped moulding, which encloses the design on top, and is continued perpendicularly down each side. The space between the arch and the enclosing moulding is divided into nine panels, each containing a distinct carving of figures. That in the apex represents God the Father, holding between his knees a cross bearing a figure of the Crucifixion. Each of the panels at the sides contains one or two figures of angels waving censers, and saints holding scrolls. The wall

v

at the back of the arch is also divided into panels, containing sculptures in three rows. In the upper row the panels comprise angels censing with a star in the centre, and at each side an angel holding a candle. In the central row the chief panel contains the Virgin and Child, supported by a bishop or abbot on each side, one of whom holds a skull. These figures are each enclosed in a Gothic canopy. The left panel shows the faint outline of a castle, and that on the right a galley (the M‘Leod arms). The third row exhibits several panels. That on the

Effigy in South Transept.]

left is a hunting scene, a knight with sword and spear, followed by attendants holding dogs in leash. The next panel contains three stags, well carved. To the right of this is a panel representing an angel holding up a pair of scales to weigh the souls of the departed, in which process he is interfered with by a demon. A similar scene is carved on one of the pier caps in the choir of Iona Cathedral (see Fig. 985).

To the right is a long panel containing the following inscription in Gothic letters:--

HIC · LOCULUS · CŌPOSUIT · · · · ALLEXĀDER · FILIUS · VILM̄I · MAC · CLOD · DN̄O · DE · DŪVEGAN · ANNO · DN̄I · Mº · CCCCCº · XXVIIIº

The meaning of this apparently is that Alexander, son of William MacLeod of Dunvegan, made this tomb A.D. 1528.

On the pedestal under the arch lies the effigy of the said Alexander M‘Leod of Dunvegan (Fig. 1304), clad in full armour, and holding a long sword with cross hilt. The effigy is unfortunately much decayed. The head rests on a pillow with an animal above, and the feet rest on a lion. At the side of the monument a lion encloses the tomb.

The style of the carving and the subjects represented recall the sculptures at Iona. The figures of the abbot and bishop are similar in style to that of the abbess at the Iona Nunnery, and the scene of the angel weighing souls with a demon interfering occurs on one of the caps in the Iona

choir. The division of the flat surfaces into panels, each containing a separate subject, is characteristic of Celtic decoration. The hunting scene and the ship are also common in Celtic work. The peculiar Celtic foliage of Iona is here wanting. Enough, however, exists to associate the style of the work with that of the rest of the Western Isles, while the Gothic influence is also very distinct.

The date is fixed by the inscription, and the introduction of the nail-head ornament shows the revival here, as at Iona, of earlier forms, as above pointed out by Mr. Muir.

The tomb in the recessed arch to the west of the south transept is of much simpler design than the corresponding one to the east above described. It consists (see Fig. 1300) of a semicircular moulded arch with a hood moulding stopped on carved corbels at each end. Over the upper part of the hood a triangular space is enclosed with a moulding, finished at the apex with a fleur-de-lys. This triangular space contains an oblong panel, much decayed, exhibiting the Crucifixion, with a figure on each side. The effigy “represents a man in armour with high peaked bassinet and camail over a habergeon reaching to the knee. The nature of the defences of the feet and legs is not indicated. He holds a long, straight, cross-hilted sword in front, the pommel reaching to the breast, and the point placed between the feet. A dagger hangs at his left side, but the military belt is wanting.”[141]

The third tomb is at the end of the south transept. The effigy (Fig. 1305) is somewhat similar to the last described, but is much wasted by exposure.

A remarkable recessed tomb having some analogy with those at Rowdil is described and figured in a paper by Professor Norman Macpherson in the _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. XII. p. 583. It consists of a plain round arch in the north wall of the ruined Church of St. Donan in the island of Eigg. In the wall at the back of the recess is a large square panel containing sculptures, which “afford an interesting example of Celtic notions of heraldry.” These sculptures appear to represent the Clanranald shield, having in the place of the first quarter a hand grasping a cross, in the second what appears

Figure, &c., in West Elevation.]

to be a lion, in the third a galley, and in the fourth a castle. A tree, like a laurel, springs from the base and stretches to the top, with a bird on the highest branch.

The external appearance of St. Clement’s is shown by Fig. 1299 and by the elevations (Figs. 1306 and 1307). The latter also show the tower and the peculiar carved heads and other figures, above alluded to, as probable insertions from an older structure. Fig. 1308 shows the small figure of a saint, inserted over the cabled string course on the west side of the tower, and the narrow cusped window above it. The north elevation (see Fig. 1307) and the sections (see Figs. 1300 and 1301) explain the mode in which the tower is built upon a higher level than the church.

ORONSAY PRIORY,[142] ARGYLLSHIRE.

Notwithstanding the very numerous small churches and chapels found in the Western Isles,[143] there are comparatively few remains of monasteries. The original Celtic religious establishments were, doubtless, monastic in their form and structure, but of convents in the later sense, corresponding with those so common on the mainland, few traces are now to be seen. Next to the great Abbey of the Isles at Iona and the nunnery on the same island, the largest monastic establishment in the Western Isles of which the structures survive is the Priory of Oronsay.

This island lies about ten miles west from Jura, and can be most conveniently reached from Portaskaig, in Islay. The isle is about two and three-quarter miles broad from east to west by about two miles from north to south. It stands at the south end of the larger island of Colonsay, from which it is separated by a narrow channel, dry at low tide.

It is traditionally narrated that St. Columba and his companion, St. Oran, landed on Oronsay after leaving Ireland; but finding that the latter country could still be seen from the highest point of the island, they forsook it and sailed to Iona. St. Oran, however, gave his name to the island, and, together with Colonsay, it seems, from the numerous remains of churches which once existed on these islands, to have been a sacred locality, the remains of nine old churches and the sites of three more--ten in Colonsay and two in Oronsay--being still traceable. The most important appears to have been the Monastery of Kiloran, in Colonsay, of which no remains now exist. Next to it was the Priory of Oronsay. This priory of Canons Regular of St. Augustine appears to have been founded in the fourteenth century by the Lord of the Isles as a cell of the Abbey of Holyrood at Edinburgh.

The priory is situated at the extreme west end of the island, on the lowermost slope of the _Beinn Oronsay_, just short of the point where its rugged cliffs front the Atlantic.