Chapter III (1)

ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: THROUGH TEXAS TO NATCHITOCHES ON THE RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA, JUNE 1ST-JULY 1ST, 1807.

_Monday, June 1st._ Arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande[III'-1] at eight o'clock. This place was the position to which our friend Barelo had been ordered, and which had been very highly spoken of to him; but he found himself miserably mistaken, for it was with the greatest difficulty we obtained anything to eat, which mortified him extremely.

When at Chihuahua, General Salcedo had asked me if I had not lost a man by desertion, to which I replied in the negative. He then informed me that an American had arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande in the last year; that he had at first confined him, but that he was now released and practicing physic; and that he wished me to examine him on my arrival. I therefore had him sent for; the moment he entered the room I discovered he never had received a liberal education, or been accustomed to polished society. I told him the reason I had requested to see him, and that I had it in my power to serve him if I found him a character worthy of interference.

He then related the following story: That his name was Martin Henderson; that he was born in Rock Bridge County, State of Virginia; that he had been brought up a farmer; but that, coming early to the State of Kentucky and to Tennessee, he had acquired a taste for frontier life, and that, in the spring of 1806, himself and four companions had left the Saline in the District of Saint Genevieve, Upper Louisiana, in order to penetrate through the woods to the province of Texas; that his companions had left him on the White [Arkansaw] river, and that he had continued on; that in swimming some western branch his horse sunk under him, and it was with difficulty he made the shore with his gun. Here he waited two or three days until his horse rose, and he then got his saddle-bags; but all his notes on the country, courses, etc., were destroyed. He then proceeded on foot for a few days, when he was met by 30 or 40 Osage warriors, who, on his telling them he was going to the Spaniards, were about to kill him; but on his saying he would go to the Americans, they held a consultation over him, and finally seized on his clothes and divided them between them; then his pistols, compass, dirk, and watch, which they took to pieces and hung in their noses and ears; then they stripped him naked, and round his body found a belt with gold pieces sewed in it; this they also took, and finally seized on his gun and ammunition, and were marching off to leave him in that situation; but he followed them, thinking it better to be killed than left in that state to die by hunger and cold. The savages after some time halted, and one pulled off an old pair of leggings and gave him, another mockinsons, a third a buffalo robe, and the one who had carried his heavy rifle had by this time become tired of his prize, they never using rifles; they counted him out 25 charges of powder and ball, then sent two Indians with him, who put him on a war-trace, which they said led to American establishments; and as soon as the Indians left him he directed his course as he supposed for Saint Antonio. He then killed deer and made himself some clothes. He proceeded on and expended all his ammunition three days before he struck the Grand Road, nearly at the Rio Grande. He further added that he had discovered two mines, one of silver and the other of gold, the situation of which he particularly described; but that the general had taken the samples from him. That he would not attempt to pass himself on us for a physician, and hoped, as he only used simples and was careful to do no harm, we would not betray him. He further added that since his being in the country he had made, from information, maps of all the adjacent country; but that they had been taken from him.

I had early concluded that he was an agent of Burr's, and was revolving in my mind whether I should denounce him as such to the commandant, but feeling reluctant from an apprehension that he might be innocent, when one of my men came in and informed me that it was Trainer, who had killed Major Bashier [?] in the wilderness between Natchez and Tennessee, when he was his hireling. He shot him, when taking a nap at noon, through the head with his own pistols. The governor of the State and the major's friends offered a very considerable reward for his apprehension, which obliged him to quit the State; and with an Amazonian woman, who handled arms and hunted like a savage, he retreated to the source of the White river; but, being routed from that retreat by Captain Maney [James B. Many], of the United States army and a party of Cherokees, he and his female companion bore west; she, proving to be pregnant, was left by him in the desert, and I was informed arrived at the settlements on Red river, but by what means is to me unknown. The articles and money taken from him by the Osages were the property of the deceased major. I then reported these circumstances to Captain Barelo, who had him immediately confined, until the will of Governor Cordero should be known, who informed me, when at Saint Antonio, that he would have him sent to some place of perpetual confinement in the interior. Thus vengeance has overtaken the ingrate and murderer when he least expected it.

In the evening we went to see some performers on the slack-rope, who were no wise extraordinary in their performances, except in language which would bring a blush on the cheek of the most abandoned of the female sex in the United States.

_June 2d._ In the day time were endeavoring to regulate our watches by my compass, and in an instant that my back was turned some person stole it. I could by no means recover it, and I had strong suspicions that the theft was approved, as the instrument had occasioned great dissatisfaction.

This day the captain went out to dine with some monks, who would have thought it profanation to have had us as their guests, notwithstanding the priest of the place had escorted us round the town and to all the missions; we found him a very communicative, liberal, and intelligent man. We saw no resource for a dinner but in the inventive genius of a little Frenchman who had accompanied us from Chihuahua, where he had been officiating one year as cook to the general, of whom he gave us many interesting anecdotes, and in fact was of infinite service to us; we supported him and he served as cook, interpreter, etc. It was astonishing with what zeal he strove to acquire news and information for us; and as he had been four times through the provinces, he had acquired considerable knowledge of the country, people, etc. He went off and in a very short time returned with table-cloth, plates, a dinner of three or four courses, a bottle of wine, and a pretty girl to attend on the table. We inquired by what magic he had brought this about, and found that he had been to one of the officers and notified him that it was the wish of the commandant that he should supply the two Americans with a decent dinner, which was done; but we took care to compensate them for their trouble. This we explained to Barelo in the evening, and he laughed heartily.

We parted from the captain with regrets and assurances of remembrance. Departed at five o'clock, escorted by Ensign [Blank] and [blank] men; came on to the Rio Grande, which we passed, and encamped at a Rancho on the other side. Distance seven miles.[III'-2]

_June 3d._ The mosquitoes, which had commenced the first night on this side of Montelovez, now became very troublesome. This day saw the first horse-flies; saw some wild horses; came on in the open plain, and in a dry time, when there was no water. Distance 30 miles.

_June 4th._ Came 16 miles to a pond and dined; great sign of wild horses; in the afternoon to the river Noissour [Nueces], swimming where [_i. e._, too deep to ford when] we arrived, although it was not more than ten steps wide. Distance 36 miles.[III'-3]

_June 5th._ After losing two horses in passing the river, the water having fallen so that we forded, we crossed and continued our route. Passed two herds of wild horses, which left the road for us. Halted at a pond on the left of the road, 15 miles, where we saw the first oak since we left New Mexico, and this was scrub oak. Passed many deer yesterday and to-day. Came on to a small creek at night, where we met a party of the company of Saint Fernandez returning from the line. Distance 31 miles.[III'-4]

_June 6th._ Marched early and met several parties of troops returning from Texas, where they had been sent to re-enforce, when our troops were near the line. Immense numbers of cross-roads made by the wild horses. Killed a wild hog [peccary, _Dicotyles torquatus_], which on examination I found to be very different from the tame breed, smaller, brown, with long hair and short legs; they are to be found in all parts between Red river and the Spanish settlements.

Passed an encampment made by the Lee Panes [Lipans[III'-5]]; met one of said nation with his wife. In the afternoon struck the woodland, which was the first we had been in from the time we left the Osage nation. Distance 39 miles.

_Sunday, June 7th._ Came on 15 miles to the [Medina] river Mariano--the line between Texas and Cogquilla--a pretty little stream, [on which was a] Rancho. Thence in the afternoon to Saint Antonio.[III'-6] We halted at the mission of Saint Joseph [San José]; received in a friendly manner by the priest of the mission and others.

We were met out of Saint Antonio about three miles by Governors Cordero and Herrara, in a coach. We repaired to their quarters, where we were received like their children. Cordero informed me that he had discretionary orders as to the mode of my going out of the country; that he therefore wished me to choose my time, mode, etc.; that any sum of money I might want was at my service; that in the meantime Robinson and myself would make his quarters our home; and that he had caused to be vacated and prepared a house immediately opposite for the reception of my men. In the evening his levee was attended by a crowd of officers and priests, among whom were Father M'Guire and Dr. Zerbin. After supper we went to the public square, where might be seen the two governors joined in a dance with people who in the daytime would approach them with reverence and awe.

We were here introduced to the sister of Lieutenant Malgares' wife, who was one of the finest women we saw. She was married to a Captain Ugarte, to whom we had letters of introduction.

_June 8th._ Remained at San Antonio.

_June 9th._ A large party dined at Governor Cordero's, who gave as his toast, "The President of the United States--Vive la." I returned the compliment by toasting "His Catholic Majesty." These toasts were followed by "General Wilkinson." One of the company then gave "Those gentlemen; their safe and happy arrival in their own country; their honorable reception, and the continuation of the good understanding which exists between the two countries."

_June 10th._ A large party at the governor's to dinner. He gave as a toast, "My companion, Herrara."

_June 11th._ Preparing to march to-morrow. We this evening had a conversation with the two governors, wherein they exhibited an astonishing knowledge of the political character of our Executive, and the local interests of the different parts of the Union.

_June 12th._ One of the captains from the kingdom of [Nuevo] Leon having died, we were invited to attend the burial, and accompanied the two governors in their coach, where we had an opportunity of viewing the solemnity of the interment, agreeably to the ritual of the Spanish church, attended by the military honors which were conferred on the deceased by his late brethren in arms.

[As I ascertained to-day,] Governor Cordero gave the information of my intended expedition to the commandant-general as early as July [1806], the same month that I took my departure. His information was received via Natchez.

_June 13th._ This morning there were marched 200 dragoons for the sea-coast, to look out for the English, and this evening Colonel Cordero was to have marched to join them. We marched at seven o'clock, Governor Cordero taking us in his coach about two leagues, accompanied by Father M'Guire, Dr. Zerbin, etc. We took a friendly adieu of Governor Herrara and our other friends at Saint Antonio.

It may not be improper to mention here something of Father M'Guire and Dr. Zerbin, who certainly treated us with all imaginable attention while at Saint Antonio. The former was an Irish priest, who formerly resided on the coast above [New] Orleans [in present Louisiana], and was noted for his hospitable and social qualities. On the cession of Louisiana, he followed the standard of "the king, his master, who never suffers an old servant to be neglected." He received at Cuba an establishment as chaplain to the mint of Mexico, whence the instability of human affairs carried him to Saint Antonio. He was a man of chaste classical taste, observation, and research.

Dr. Zerbin formerly resided at Natchez [in present Mississippi], but in consequence of pecuniary embarrassments emigrated to the Spanish territories. Being a young man of a handsome person and an insinuating address, he had obtained the good-will of Governor Cordero, who had conferred on him an appointment in the king's hospital, and many other advantages by which he might have made a fortune; but he had recently committed some very great indiscretions, by which he had nearly lost the favor of Colonel Cordero, though whilst we were there he was treated with attention.

I will here attempt to portray a faint resemblance of the characters of the two governors whom we found at Saint Antonio; but to whose superexcellent qualities it would require the pen of a master to do justice.

Don Antonio Cordero is about 5 feet 10 inches in height, 50 years of age, with fair complexion and blue eyes; he wore his hair turned back, and in every part of his deportment was legibly written "the soldier." He yet possessed an excellent constitution, and a body which appeared to be neither impaired by the fatigues of the various campaigns he had made, nor disfigured by the numerous wounds received from the enemies of his king. He was one of the select officers who had been chosen by the court of Madrid to be sent to America about 35 years since, to discipline and organize the Spanish provincials, and had been employed in all the various kingdoms and provinces of New Spain. Through the parts which we explored he was universally beloved and respected; and when I pronounce him by far the most popular man in the internal provinces, I risk nothing by the assertion. He spoke the Latin and French languages well, was generous, gallant, brave, and sincerely attached to his king and country. Those numerous qualifications advanced him to the rank of colonel of cavalry, and governor of the provinces of Cogquilla and Texas. His usual residence was Montelovez, which he had embellished a great deal, but since our taking possession of Louisiana he had removed to San Antonio, in order to be nearer the frontier, to be able to apply the remedy to any evil which might arise from the collision of our lines.

Don Simon de Herrara is about 5 feet 11 inches high, has a sparkling black eye, dark complexion and hair. He was born in the Canary islands, served in the infantry in France, Spain, and Flanders, and speaks the French language well, with a little of the English. He is engaging in his conversation with his equals; polite and obliging to his inferiors, and in all his actions one of the most gallant and accomplished men I ever knew. He possesses a great knowledge of mankind from his experience in various countries and societies, and knows how to employ the genius of each of his subordinates to advantage. He had been in the United States during the presidency of General Washington, and had been introduced to that hero, of whom he spoke in terms of exalted veneration. He is now lieutenant-colonel of infantry, and governor of the kingdom of New Leon. His seat of government is Mont Elrey; and probably, if ever a chief is adored by his people, it is Herrara. When his time expired last, he immediately repaired to Mexico, attended by 300 of the most respectable people of his government, who carried with them the sighs, tears, and prayers of thousands that he might be continued in that government. The viceroy thought proper to accord to their wishes _pro tempore_, and the king has since confirmed his nomination. When I saw him he had been about one year absent, during which time the citizens of rank in Mont Elrey had not suffered a marriage or baptism to take place in any of their families, until their common father could be there, to consent and give joy to the occasion by his presence. What greater proof could be given of their esteem and love?

In drawing a parallel between these two friends, I should say that Cordero was the man of greatest reading, and that Herrara possessed the greatest knowledge of the world. Cordero has lived all his life a bachelor. Herrara married an English lady in early youth, at Cadiz; one who by her suavity of manners makes herself as much beloved and esteemed by the ladies as her noble husband is by the men. By her he has several children, one now an officer in the service of his royal master.

The two friends agree perfectly in one point--their hatred to tyranny of every kind; and in a secret determination never to see that flourishing part of the New World subject to any other European lord except him whom they think their honor and loyalty bound to defend with their lives and fortunes. But should Bonaparte seize on European Spain, I risk nothing in asserting that those two gentlemen would be the first to throw off the yoke, draw their swords, and assert the independence of their country.

Before I close this subject, it may not be improper to state that we owe it to Governor Herrara's prudence that we are not now engaged in a war with Spain. This will be explained by the following anecdote, which he related in the presence of his friend Cordero, and which was confirmed by him. When the difficulties commenced on the Sabine,[III'-7] the commandant-general and the viceroy consulted each other, and mutually determined to maintain inviolate what they deemed the dominions of their master. The viceroy therefore ordered Herrara to join Cordero with 1,300 men, and both the viceroy and General Salcedo ordered Cordero to cause our troops to be attacked, should they pass the Rio Oude [_sic_]. These orders were positively reiterated to Herrara, the actual commanding officer of the Spanish army on the frontiers, and gave rise to the many messages which he sent to General Wilkinson when he was advancing with our troops. Finding they were not attended to, he called a council of war on the question to attack or not, when it was given as their opinion that they should immediately commence a predatory warfare, but avoid a general engagement; yet, notwithstanding the orders of the viceroy, the commandant-general, Governor Cordero's, and the opinion of his officers, he had the firmness or temerity to enter into the agreement with General Wilkinson which at present exists relative to our boundaries on that frontier. On his return he was received with coolness by Cordero, and they both made their communications to their superiors. "Until an answer was received," said Herrara, "I experienced the most unhappy period of my life, conscious I had served my country faithfully, at the same time that I had violated every principle of military duty." At length the answer arrived, and what was it, but the thanks of the viceroy and the commandant-general for having pointedly disobeyed their orders, with assurances that they would represent his services in exalted terms to the king. What could have produced this change of sentiment is to me unknown, but the letter was published to the army, and confidence again restored between the two chiefs and the troops.

Our company consisted of Lieutenant Jn. Echararria, who commanded the escort; Captain Eugene Marchon of New Orleans, and Father José Angel Cabaso, who was bound to the camp at or near the [river] Trinity; with a suitable proportion of soldiers. We came on 16 miles to a place called the Beson, where we halted until the mules came up. Marched again at four o'clock, and arrived at the river of Guadalupe at eight o'clock. Distance 30 miles.[III'-8]

_Sunday, June 14th._ When we left Saint Antonio, everything appeared to be in a flourishing and improving state, owing to the examples and encouragement given to industry, politeness, and civilization by the excellent Governor Cordero and his colleague Herrara; also to the large body of troops maintained at that place in consequence of the difference existing between the United States and Spain.

Came on to the Saint Mark [river, Rio San Marco] in the morning; in the afternoon came on 15 miles further, but was late, owing to our having taken the wrong road. Distance 30 miles.[III'-9]

_June 15th._ Marched 20 miles in the morning to a small pond, which is dry in a dry season, where we halted. Here commenced the oak timber, it having been musqueet [mesquit, _Prosopis juliflora_] in general from Saint Antonio. Prairie like the Indiana territory. In the afternoon came on six miles further to a creek, where we encamped early. Distance 26 miles.[III'-10]

_June 16th._ Marched early, and at eight o'clock arrived at Red river [Rio Colorado of Texas[III'-11]]. Here was a small Spanish station and several lodges of Tancards--tall, handsome men, but the most naked savages I ever saw, without exception. They complained much of their situation. In the afternoon passed over hilly, stony land; occasionally we saw pine timber. Killed one deer. Encamped on a small run. Distance 26 miles.

_June 17th._ Came on by nine o'clock to a large encampment of Tancards,[III'-12] more than 40 lodges. Their poverty was as remarkable as their independence. Immense herds of horses, etc. I gave a Camanche and Tancard each a silk handkerchief, and a recommendation to the commandant at Natchitoches. In the afternoon came on three hours and encamped on a hill, at a creek on the right-hand side of the road. Met a large herd of mules escorted by four soldiers; the lieutenant took from them some money which they had in charge. Distance 30 miles.

_June 18th._ Rode on until half past ten o'clock, when we arrived at the river Brassos.[III'-13] Here is a stockade guard of one corporal, six men, and a ferry-boat. Swam our horses over; one was drowned and several others were near it, owing to their striking each other with their feet. We then came on about two miles on this side of a bayou called the Little Brassos, which is only a branch of the other, and which makes an impassable swamp at certain seasons between them. Distance 31 miles.

_June 19th._ Came on through prairies and woods alternately 20 miles to a small creek, Corpus Christi, with well-wooded, rich land. In the afternoon came on ten miles, and passed a creek which at high water is nearly impassable four miles. Overflows swamps, ponds, etc. Encamped about one mile on this side, on high land to the right of the road. Met the mail, Indians, and others. Distance 30 miles.[III'-14]

_June 20th._ Came on 16 miles in the morning; passed several herds of mustangs or wild horses; good land, ponds and small dry creeks, prairie and woods, alternately. It rained considerably. We halted to dry our baggage long before night. Distance 20 miles.

_Sunday, June 21st._ Came on to the river Trinity [Rio Trinidad[III'-15]] by eight o'clock. Here were stationed two captains, two lieutenants, and three ensigns, with nearly 100 men, all sick, one scarcely able to assist another. Met a number of runaway negroes, some French, and Irishmen. Received information of Lieutenant Wilkinson's safe arrival. Crossed with all our horses and baggage, with much difficulty. Distance 20 miles.

_June 22d._ Marched the mules and horses in the forenoon, but did not depart ourselves until three o'clock. Father José Angel Cabaso separated from us at this place for the post of [300 Spanish troops cantoned further down Trinity river], where he was destined. Passed thick woods, and a few small prairies with high rich grass. Sent a dispatch to Nacogdoches. Distance 22 miles.[III'-16]

_June 23d._ Came on 20 miles in the forenoon to a small creek of standing water; good land and well timbered. Met a sergeant from Nacogdoches. In the afternoon made 20 miles and crossed the river Natches [or Neches,[III'-17]] running N. W. and S. E., 20 yards wide, belly-deep to horses at this time, but sometimes impassable. Two miles on this side encamped on a hill in a little prairie. The mules and loads arrived at twelve o'clock. The sandy soil and pine timber began again this afternoon, but there was good land near the river. Distance 40 miles.

_June 24th._ The horses came up this morning; lost six over night. We marched early and in 15 miles came to the river Angeline [Rio Angelina], about the width of the Natchez, running N. and S.; good land on its borders. Two miles further was a settlement of Barr and Davenport's, where were three of our lost horses; one mile further found two more of our horses, where we halted for dinner. Marched at four o'clock, and at half past eight arrived at Nacogdoches, where we were politely received by the adjutant and inspector [Don Francisco Viana], Captain Herrara, Mr. Davenport, etc. This part of the country is well watered, but sandy; hilly soil; pine, scrub oak, etc. Distance 37 miles.

_June 25th._ Spent in reading a gazette from the United States, etc. A large party at the adjutant and inspector's to dinner: 1st toast, "The President of the United States"; 2d, "The King of Spain"; 3d, "Governors Herrara and Cordero."

_June 26th._ Made preparations to march the next day. Saw an old acquaintance; also, Lorrimier's son-in-law, from the district of Cape Jerardeau [Girardeau]. Dined with the commandant, and spent the evening at Davenport's.

_June 27th._ Marched after dinner and came only 12 miles. Was escorted by Lieutenant Guodiana and a military party. Mr. Davenport's brother-in-law, who was taking in some money, also accompanied us.

Don Francis Viana, adjutant and inspector of the Internal provinces, who commanded at Nacogdoches, is an old and veteran officer, and was one of those who came to America at the same time with Colonel Cordero. Possessing a mind of frankness, he unfortunately spoke his opinions too freely in some instances, which, finding their way to court, prevented his promotion. But he is highly respected by his superiors, and looked up to as a model of military conduct by his inferiors. He unfortunately does not possess flexibility sufficient to be useful [to us] in the present state of the Spanish kingdoms. He is the officer who caused Major Sparks and Mr. Freeman to return from their expedition on the Red river [see p. 412].

_Sunday, June 28th._ Marched early and at nine o'clock crossed the little river called [Toyac[III'-18]], whence we pushed on in order to arrive at the house of a Frenchman, [about nine] miles distant from the Sabine. We stopped at a house on the road, where the lieutenant informed me an American by the name of Johnson lived; but was surprised to find he had crossed the line with his family, and a French family in his place. When we began conversing with them they were much alarmed, thinking we had come to examine them, and expressed great attachment to the Spanish government. They were somewhat astonished to find I was an American officer; and on my companions stepping out, expressed themselves in strong terms of hatred to the Spanish nation. I excused them for their weakness, and gave them a caution. Fine land, well watered and timbered; hickory, oak, sugar-tree, etc. Distance 40 miles.

_June 29th._ Our baggage and horses came up about ten o'clock, when we dispatched them on. Marched ourselves at two o'clock, and arrived at the river Sabine by five. Here we saw the cantonment of the Spanish troops, when they were commanded by Colonel Herrara, in the late affair between the two governments. Crossed the Sabine river and came about one league on this side to a little prairie, where we encamped. Distance 15 miles.[III'-19]

Parted with Lieutenant Guodiana and our Spanish escort. Here I think proper to bear testimony to the politeness, civility, and attention of all the officers who at different periods and in different provinces commanded my escort, but in a particular manner to Malgares and Barelo, who appeared studious to please and accommodate, all that lay in their power; also, the obliging, mild dispositions evinced in all instances by their rank and file.

On this side of the Sabine I went up to a house, where I found 10 or 15 Americans hovering near the line, in order to embrace an opportunity of carrying on some illicit commerce with the Spaniards, who on their side were equally eager. Here we found Tharp and Sea, who had been old sergeants in General Wayne's army.

_June 30th._ Marched early and came 15 miles to a house at a small creek, where lived a Dutch family named Faulk, and where we left a small roan horse which had given out. Marched 12 miles further to a large bayou, where had been an encampment of our troops, which I recognized by its form, and took pleasure in imagining the position of the general's marquee and the tents of my different friends and acquaintances. Distance 28 [27] miles.[III'-20]

_July 1st._ Finding that a horse of Dr. Robinson's, which had come all the way from Chihuahua, could not proceed, was obliged to leave him here. Yesterday and to-day passed many Choctaws, whose clothing, furniture, etc., evidently marked the superiority of situation of those who bordered on our frontiers, to that of the naked, half-starved wretches whom we found hanging round the Spanish settlements. Passed a string of huts, supposed to have been built by our troops, and at a small run a fortified camp but half a mile from the hill where anciently stood the village Adyes [Adayes on the map[III'-21]]. We proceeded to a spring where we halted for our loads. Finding the horses much fatigued, and not able to proceed, we left them and baggage and proceeded. We arrived at Natchitoches[III'-22] about 4 p. m.

Language cannot express the gayety of my heart when I once more beheld the standard of my country waved aloft. "All hail!" cried I, "the ever sacred name of country, in which is embraced that of kindred, friends, and every other tie which is dear to the soul of man!" Was affectionately received by Colonel Freeman, Captains Strong and Woolstoncraft, Lieutenant Smith, and all the [other] officers of the post.[III'-23]

_Meteorological Observations made by Captain Pike during a Tour through the Internal Provinces of New Spain, in the year 1807._[III'-24]

-------+----------------------------+-----------------+---------------
| [Réaumur's] Thermometer. | | Wind.
Date. +---------+---------+--------+ Sky. +-------+-------
|sun-rise.| 3 p. m. |sun-set.| |Course.| Force.
-------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+-------
Mar. 3 | 4 | .... | .... | cloudy and snow | W | fresh
4 | 1 | .... | 2 | snow | E | do.
5 | 4 | .... | .... | clear | N W | gentle
6 | .... | .... | 2 | cloudy and snow | N | do.
7 | 1 | .... | .... | hail | N | ....
8 | .... | .... | 3 | cloudy | W | ....
9 | 3 | .... | 4 | clear | W | ....
10 | 0 | .... | 6 | hail and snow | S W | ....
11 | 1 | .... | 6 | .... | W | fresh
12 | 3 | .... | 3 | .... | W | gentle
13 | 1 | .... | .... | .... | N | fresh
14 | 3 | .... | 6 | cloudy | S W | ....
15 | 0 | .... | 6 | .... | W | ....
16 | 7 | .... | 2 | clear | S W | gentle
17 | 4½ | .... | 7 | .... | E | ....
18 | 6 | .... | 6 | .... | E | fresh
19 | 2 | .... | 7 | .... | .... | ....
20 | .... | .... | .... | .... | E | ....
21 | 9 | .... | .... | clear and cold | .... | ....
22 | .... | .... | .... | snow and hail | S E | ....
23 | .... | .... | .... | .... | .... | ....
24 | 2 | .... | 6 | clear | E | gentle
25 | .... | .... | .... | do. | .... | ....
26 | 1 | .... | 6 | do. | E | gentle
27 | 1 | .... | .... | do. | S | fresh
28 | 2 | .... | 8 | do. | S | gentle
29 | 2 | .... | 9 | .... | N | fresh
30 | 1 | 14 | 4 | .... | N | ....
31 | 5 | .... | 11 | .... | W | gentle
| | | | | |
Apr. 4 | 13 | 16 | 15 | .... | .... | ....
5 | 14 | 17 | 15 | .... | S | ....
6 | 15 | 16 | 14 | .... | .... | ....
7 | 13 | 15 | 16 | cloudy | .... | ....
8 | 14 | 16 | 17 | .... | .... | ....
9 | 13 | 17 | 15 | .... | .... | ....
10 | 14 | 16 | 14 | .... | .... | ....
11 | 15 | 18 | 15 | .... | .... | ....
12 | 13 | 19 | 17 | .... | .... | ....
13 | 14 | 17 | 18 | light snow | .... | ....
14 | 15 | 19 | 15 | .... | .... | ....
15 | 14 | 20 | 18 | .... | .... | ....
16 | 13 | 18 | 16 | .... | .... | ....
17 | 16 | 20 | 15 | .... | .... | ....
18 | 17 | 19 | 16 | .... | .... | ....
19 | 18 | 18 | 15 | .... | .... | ....
20 | 15 | 18 | 16 | .... | .... | ....
21 | 14 | 13 | 15 | .... | .... | ....
22 | 16 | 18 | 16 | .... | .... | ....
23 | 15 | 19 | 19 | .... | .... | ....
24 | 13 | 19 | 16 | .... | .... | ....
25 | 15 | 19 | 16 | clear | .... | ....
26 | 14 | 18 | 17 | .... | .... | ....
27 | 15 | 19 | 17 | .... | .... | ....
28 | 14 | 17 | 16 | .... | .... | ....
29 | 15 | 24 | 20 | .... | .... | ....
30 | 15 | .... | 20 | .... | .... | ....
-------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+-------

_Meteorological Observations made by Captain Pike (Continued)._

-------+----------------------------+-----------------+---------------
| [Réaumur's] Thermometer. | | Wind.
Date. +---------+---------+--------+ Sky. +-------+-------
|sun-rise.| 3 p. m. |sun-set.| |Course.|Force.
-------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+-------
May 1 | 11 | .... | .... | .... | .... | ....
2 | 12 | 24 | 17 | .... | .... | ....
3 | 15 | 23 | 16 | some rain | .... | ....
4 | 14 | 24 | 17 | clear | .... | ....
5 | 17 | 23 | 16 | .... | W | ....
6 | 17 | 28½ | 16 | .... | S | ....
7 | 14 | 29 | 15 | .... | S W | ....
8 | 12 | 27 | 15 | .... | W | ....
9 | 9 | 26 | 20 | .... | .... | ....
10 | 11 | 24 | 17 | .... | W | ....
11 | .... | 25 | .... | .... | .... | ....
12 | 15 | 27 | .... | .... | .... | ....
13 | 27 | 20 | .... | .... | E | ....
14 | 10 | 30 | 20 | .... | S W | ....
15 | 11 | 32½ | .... | clear | S E | ....
16 | .... | 25 | .... | cloudy | S | ....
17 | .... | 23 | 20 | some rain | .... | ....
18 | 29 | 24 | 21½ | rain | .... | ....
19 | 20½ | .... | 15 | cloudy | E | gentle
20 | 13 | 24 | .... | some rain | .... | ....
21 | .... | 22 | 19 | cloudy | .... | ....
22 | .... | 24 | .... | rainy morning | .... | ....
23 | 15 | 23 | 15 | clear | W | ....
24 | 14 | 22 | 21 | .... | .... | ....
25 | 16 | 24 | 23 | .... | .... | ....
26 | 15 | 23 | 22 | cloudy and rain | W | ....
27 | 14 | 21 | 18 | rain | .... | ....
28 | 15 | 23 | 15 | cloudy | S | ....
29 | 19 | .... | .... | do. | .... | ....
30 | .... | 30 | 20 | do. | .... | ....
31 | 22 | 27 | 25 | do. | S | ....
| | | | | |
June 1 | 17 | 2 | .... | .... | .... | ....
2 | .... | 25 | .... | cloudy | S E | ....
3 | .... | 26 | .... | .... | .... | ....
4 | .... | 30 | .... | .... | .... | ....
-------+---------+---------+--------+-----------------+-------+-------

FOOTNOTES:

[III'-1] Pike is now seen to have been all the while on the old Spanish trail from Coahuila into Texas--for it was the "old" trail of his day, a century ago. The place is 40 m. below Eagle Pass or old Fort Duncan, and 90 m. above Laredo or old Fort McIntosh. It is thus the middle one of three places on the river within easy striking distance of San Antonio, Tex. From each of the three roads still converge to the latter point; but this most historic place on the lower Rio Grande has in the course of time fallen between two stools, so to speak. For now one railroad runs from San Antonio nearly S. to Laredo, by the way of Pearsall, Derby, Cotulla, Encinal, Webb, and Sanchez, and another comes W. to Laredo from Corpus Christi on the Gulf; while a third railroad connects San Antonio with Eagle Pass by way of Castroville, Salinal, and Brackettville (Fort Clark). The last named one is that which Pike kept so close to on his way out of Mexico; the one from Laredo runs in Nuevo Leon to Monterey and so on. Eagle Pass is roundly 500 m. up the Rio Grande, by any practicable road, but less than half as far from the Gulf in a direct line. Forty years ago it had a population of 300, and Fort Duncan, which adjoined the town, was our uppermost military post on the river. On the other side the Mexicans had their similar establishment at a place called Piedras Negras or Black Rocks. A fine view of this place is given on one of the engravings of the U. S. and Mex. B. Survey, supposed to be bound opp. p. 72. The Ciudad Porfirio Diaz is there or thereabouts now, and another settlement called Fuentes is in the neighborhood; but Fort Duncan has disappeared, except from history. Fuentes is on a small river which falls in just above; higher up on the same is San Fernando de Rosas, or Zaragoza, a point whence various roads radiate. Laredo or Loredo is a very old place, whose history dates back to the early Spanish occupation of the country. Emory writes that in his time, say 1850, it was a decayed place of 600 inhabitants, having been ravaged by savage hordes, and being then supported mainly by old Fort McIntosh, which was built a mile above the town. He thinks that the countless herds of horses which had been stampeded and stolen by the Indians were the progenitors of the mustangs which roamed the plains of Texas thence N. and E. Laredo is now a focal point of roads from every direction, including two railroads; and a place called Nuevo Laredo is established across the river. At 61 or 62 m. by the road below Laredo, and thus opposite the mouth of Rio Sabinas (which takes the undesirable name of Rio Salado below its forks), a fortified trading-post was built, and called Bellville. This name appears on maps of 40 years ago, but has lapsed, like that of Redmond's Ranch by which it was once known, and there is nothing on the American side to show for what would supposably be a marked place--the confluence of so large a river with the Rio Grande. But there is a town of Carrizo a few miles below, on the Texan side. The Mexican town of Guerro or Guerrero is located on the N. bank of Rio Salado, 4 m. up; and 3 m. further are the handsome falls, a colored plate of which should be found opp. p. 65 of the Report last named. Forty miles below this confluence, Rio Alamo, also known as Rio Alcontre, falls in on the Mexican side, and 4 m. up this river is the town of Mier, on its S. bank. Mier, or a town of that name in this vicinity, must be an old place; Pike marks a Mier on the Texan side. The Mier of the Mexican War became a celebrated place, during the Texan invasion of 1840, when a desperate fight occurred on its plaza. It was then a town of 2,000 or 3,000 inhabitants, and had many stone buildings among the straw-thatched huts. It made much history, and was a point of strategic importance, being the starting-place of the shortest and most direct road to Monterey. Military operations on the Rio Grande during the American occupation of Mier are said by Emory to have altered the channel of the river, with the result of throwing the island of Los Adjuntos over to the Mexican side, and thus changing what had been the United States and Mexican boundary. About 5 m. further down the Rio Grande stands Roma, a town on the American side, notable as the head of ordinary steamboat navigation. Below this, at the distance of 16 or 17 m., are the adjoining localities of Rio Grande City and Ringgold Barracks. These notable places are opposite the mouth of the San Juan r., on some of whose headwaters Pike was found in the country W. of Saltillo, and which is the first considerable stream that falls in on the Mexican side above the Gulf. The town of Camargo is built on its E. bank, about 4 m. up. The original establishment of Fort Ringgold is old (for our young history on the Rio Grande); it was a mean place in 1850, when Rio Grande City had a population of about 300, but came into prominence during the years of the Boundary Survey, when it was a base of various operations, and a point of observation: distance from the sea, 241 m. by the river; alt. 521 feet; lat. 26° 22´ 27.79´´ N.; long. 98° 46´ 32.85´´ W. (Emory, _l. c._). All the points here in mention, between and including Ringgold Barracks and Laredo, are in Texas or in Tamaulipas; for Nuevo Leon is cut off from the Rio Grande by the Tamaulipan "Panhandle" which runs up to Coahuila. To return now from our trip up and down the river to the famous place where we left Pike: The name of Presidio Rio Grande which Pike uses is not yet entirely obsolete, but the place is now better known as Presidio Salto--that is, "Fort Falls," or the Mexican military post which was established near the falls of the Rio Grande. Las Isletas, or The Islets, is the name of the place in the river where the usually impassable falls or rapids occur, and just above these is the crossing. The scene is well shown on the plate opp. p. 68 of the Report cited. The latitude of Las Isletas was determined by Michler in 1853 to be 28° 16´ 11.5´´ N.

[III'-2] N. E., heading straight for San Antonio de Bexar, on the old trail, to the vicinity of Carrizo springs, Maverick Co.

[III'-3] The Nueces (R. des Noix of F. maps, as Vaugondy, 1783; Neuces on Winterbotham's, 1795) is the first one of the large series of rivers which drain Texas to the S. E. and S., and fall into one another or separately into the Gulf. Among these are the San Antonio, the Guadalupe, the Colorado (Red river of Texas), the Brazos, the Trinity, the Nechez, and the Sabine--all of which Pike had to cross, in the order in which they are here named, to reach Natchitoches on the Red r. in the present State of Louisiana. During this journey to the last named he continued in what was then the Spanish province of Coahuila until he was almost to San Antonio, and thereafter traversed the then province of Texas, though he passed into what is now the U. S. State of Texas on crossing the Rio Grande.

[III'-4] Those three streams which Pike lays down across his trail, before the San Antonio is reached, are the Nueces; the Leona, a branch of the Frio; and the Frio, main branch of the Nueces. These are successively crossed in the order here given. To-day's pond is marked on the map, between the Nueces and the Leona; a second pond is also marked, between the Leona and the Frio. Pike letters the Frio "Cold Creek," and runs the Nueces into the Rio Grande at or near Mier (see note 1); but it empties separately into the Gulf of Mexico near Corpus Christi. Fort Ewell was built on the Nueces, on the road between San Antonio and Laredo (Fort McIntosh); near the headwaters of the Leona was situated Fort Inge, on the road from San Antonio to Eagle Pass (Fort Duncan).

My maps differ irreconcilably concerning a certain Rio Quihi, tributary to the Nueces system. The best one, of 1857-58, makes it a large branch of the Leona, reaching across the direct route from Presidio Salto to San Antonio, and therefore across Pike's trail. _This_ Quihi r. is the present San Miguel r., which joins the Frio in McMullen Co. On an earlier map, 1849, there is no such river, but an insignificant Quihi cr., branch of a Rio Hondo, branch of a Rio Seco, branch of the Rio Frio. Some of these maps lay down a branch of the Frio called Artaceoasa cr. in one instance, and Atascosa cr. in another; this name is the same as that of a place Pike marks "Astecostota," and of present Atascosa Co., in which the creek runs to fall into the Frio in Live Oak Co.

[III'-5] "Lee Panes" looks at first sight as if intended for Les Panis, the Pawnees. But this is Pike's way of rendering Lipans. These were a tribe cognate with Apaches, and therefore of Athapascan stock. They were often called Lipan Apaches, and sometimes Sipans. Pike elsewhere speaks of "the language of the Appaches and Le Panis," showing what he means.

[III'-6] The trip from the Rio Grande to the San Antonio r. made about 151 m. by Pike's estimates, serving to show the course of the old Spanish trail as the most direct route then practicable. Pike's Mariano is now called Medina r.; on this is Castroville, seat of Medina Co., and the river mostly separates this county from Bexar Co. Pike sets San Antonio on the N. bank of an affluent of a fork large enough to look as if it were Rio Cibolo; but this last comes in much further down the San Antonio, and no doubt he intended simply to delineate the small forked San Pedro, on one of whose branches the city was situated. The San Antonio itself is represented as joining the Guadalupe high up; but these two great rivers only come together as they approach the coast, to fall into Espiritu Santo bay opposite Matagorda isl., between Indianola and Arkansas City. On some old maps, as that in Winterbotham's History, 1795, San Antonio is set on a stream called Rio Hondo, which is run separately into the Gulf of Mexico between the Nueces and the Guadalupe. The early importance of the Mariano or Medina r. as a political boundary ceased of course with the retirement of Coahuila beyond the Rio Grande, and thus the extension of Texan territory, through what had been Coahuilan territory, to New Mexico. The city was formerly more fully called San Antonio de Bexar, Bejar, Behar, Bexer, etc., to distinguish it from uncounted other places dedicated to the patron saint of highways by highwaymen and other persons, and is still the seat of Bexar Co.; pop. lately 37,673 (scarcely less than that of Dallas). The mission of "St. Joseph," commonly called San José, is figured on p. 69 of Major Emory's reports, probably looking much as it did when Pike was received there by the priest; and the steel engraving which forms the frontispiece of the same volume shows the plaza of the city. San Antonio is a very old place, having been occupied for military and ecclesiastical purposes before 1720, was long the most important one in Texas, was styled Thermopylæ of Texas after the massacre of Texans by Mexicans at Fort Alamo, Mar. 6th, 1836, and is now the second in size, though the capital of the present State is Austin, on the Rio Colorado of Texas.

[III'-7] Sabine r. still forms a portion of the boundary between Texas and Louisiana--that is, from the Gulf to 32° N., the remainder being along a meridian to 33°. In consequence of its delimiting office, it was formerly called Rio Mexicano and Mexican r. Thus "Mexicano R." appears on the map accompanying Winterbotham's History, N. Y., J. Reid, 1795.

[III'-8] Striking the Guadalupe at about the nearest point, in the vicinity of present town of New Braunfels; to reach it, Rio Cibolo was crossed, and there was the place called El Beson. There is no such disparity of size between the Guadalupe and San Antonio rivers as Pike's map indicates. The former has two main forks, the western one retaining the name Guadalupe, for which Pike letters "Buenacus." The other is called Rio San Marco, or San Marcos; it falls in at or near Gonzales, about 40 m. (direct) below New Braunfels.

[III'-9] Camp in vicinity of the present town of Lockhart (?).