Chapter IV: Observations on New Spain.iv'-1 (2)

_Population and Chief Towns._ The population of Biscay may be estimated at 200,000: of these three-twentieths may be Spaniards from Europe, five-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Metifs and Quatroons, and seven-twentieths Indians. Durango [or Guadiana] was founded in 1550. It is the principal city, the seat of government for the province of Biscay and of the bishopric of Durango. Its population may be estimated at 40,000 souls. It is situated in lat. 25° N. and long. 107° W.

Pallalein, situated somewhere at the foot of the Sierra Madria [Madre], is supposed to contain 25,000 souls.

Chihuahua,[IV'-35] the place of residence of the commandant-general of the internal provinces, was founded in 1691; it is situated in lat. 29° N., long. 107° 30´ W. Its population may be estimated at 7,000. It is an oblong square, on the east side of a small stream which discharges into the river Conchos. On its south extremity is a small but elegant church. In the public square stands the principal church, royal treasury, town-house, and the richest shops. At the western extremity is another church for the military, a superb hospital belonging formerly to the Jesuits' possessions, the church of the monks of St. Francis, St. Domingo, the military academy, and quartel del tropa. On the northwest were two or three missions, very handsomely situated on a small stream which comes in from the west. About one mile to the south of the town is a large aqueduct which conveys the water round it, to the east, into the main stream below the town, in the center of which is raised a reservoir for the water, whence it is to be conducted by pipes to the different parts of the city, and in the public square is to be a fountain and _jet d'eau_, which will be both ornamental and useful. The principal church at Chihuahua was the most superb building we saw in New Spain. Its whole front was covered with statues of the apostles and the different saints, set in niches of the wall, and the windows, doors, etc., were ornamented with sculpture. I never was within the doors, but was informed by Robinson that the decorations were immensely rich. Some men, whom we supposed entitled to credit, informed us that the church was built by a tax of 12½ cents laid on each ingot of gold or silver taken out of the mines in the vicinity in [blank] years. Its cost, with decorations, was $1,500,000, and when it was finished there remained $300,000 of the fund unappropriated. At the south side of Chihuahua is the public walk, formed by three rows of trees whose branches nearly entwine over the heads of the passengers below. At different distances there are seats for persons to repose on. At each end of the walks there were circular seats, on which, in the evening, the company collected and amused themselves with the guitar, and songs in Spanish, Italian, and French, adapted to the voluptuous manners of the country. In this city, as well as all others of any consideration, there are patrols of soldiers during the night, who stop every person at nine o'clock and examine them. My countersign was "Americans."

_Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures._ Biscay trades with North Mexico, Senora, and the viceroyalty, from the latter of which places they bring on mules all their dry goods, European furniture, books, ammunition, etc. They furnish a great quantity of horses, mules, sheep, beeves, and goats, to the parts of the kingdom which are more populous and have less spare ground for pasturage, etc. Some persons make large fortunes by being carriers from Mexico to Chihuahua, the freight being $8 per cwt., and they generally putting 300 pounds on each mule. The merchants make their remittances twice a year in bullion. Goods sell at Chihuahua at about 200 per cent, on the prices of our Atlantic seaport towns. Their horses average at $6, but some have sold as high as $100; their trained mules at $20, but extraordinary matches for carriages have sold at $400 per pair. Rice sells at $4 per cwt. They manufacture some few arms, blankets, stamped leather, embroidery, coarse cotton and woolen cloths, and a species of rough carpeting. Their blankets average $2, but some sell as high as $25.

_Agriculture._ They cultivate wheat, corn, rice, oats, cotton, flax, indigo, and vines. What I have said relative to the cultivation of those articles in New Mexico will equally apply to this province; but it may be proper to observe here that one of Nolan's men constructed the first cotton-gin they ever had in the province, and that Walker had caused a few churns to be made for some private families, and taught them the use of them.

_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ To the north of Chihuahua, about 30 miles to the right of the main road, there is some pine timber; at a spring on this side of Carracal [Carrizal] we saw one walnut tree, and on all the small streams there are shrubby cotton trees. With these few exceptions the whole province is a naked, barren plain, which presents to the eye an arid, unproductive soil, more especially in the neighborhood of mines; even the herbage appears to be poisoned by the mineral qualities of the soil.

_Antiquities._ There are none in the province which came within my notice but the Jesuits' college and church at Chihuahua, which were about a century old, and used as hospitals. In these there was nothing peculiar, except a certain solidity and strength, in which they appeared to surpass the other public buildings of the city.

_Aborigines._ There are no uncivilized savages in this province except the Appaches, of whom I have spoken largely. The Christian Indians are so incorporated amongst the lower grades of Metifs that it is scarcely possible to draw the line of distinction, except at the ranchos of noblemen or large landholders, where they are in a state of vassalage [peonage]. This class of people laid a conspiracy, which was so well concerted as to baffle the inquiries of the Spaniards for a length of time, and to occasion them the loss of several hundred inhabitants. The Indians used to go out from their villages in small parties; in a short time a part would return with the report that they had been attacked by the Indians; the Spaniards would immediately send out a detachment in pursuit, when they were led into an ambuscade and every soul cut off. They pursued this course so long that the whole province became alarmed at the rapid manner in which their enemies multiplied; but some circumstances leading to suspicion, they made use of the superstition of those people for their ruin. Some officers disguised themselves like friars and went round amongst the Indians, pretending to be possessed of the spirit of prophecy. They preached up to the Indians that the day was approaching when a general delivery from Spanish tyranny was about to take place, and invited the Indians to join in concerting with them the work of God. The poor creatures came forward, and in their confessions stated the great hand that had already been put to the work. After these pretended friars had ascertained the nature and extent of the conspiracy, and had a body of troops prepared, they commenced the execution and put to death about 400 of the unsuspecting Indians. This struck terror and dismay through the Indian villages, and they dared not rise to declare their freedom and independence.

_Government and Laws._ In this province there is some shadow of civil law; but it is merely a shadow, as the following anecdote may illustrate: An officer, on arriving at a village, demanded quarters for himself and troops. The supreme civil officer sent him word that he must show his passport. The military officer immediately sent a file of men, who brought the judge a prisoner before him, when he severely reprimanded the judge for his insolence and obliged him to obey his orders instantly. This was done by a subaltern, in a city of 20,000 inhabitants. The only laws which can be said to be in force are the military and ecclesiastic, between which there is a perfect understanding.

The governor is a brigadier-general, resides at Durango, and receives $5,000 in addition to his pay in the line. It is proper to observe that there are ordinances to bear on each subject of civil discussion; but the administration of them is so corrupt that the influence of family and fortune generally procures the determination that they have right on their side.

In each town is a public magazine for provisions, to which every farmer brings whatever grain and produce he may have for sale, and where he is sure to find a market; and should there be a scarcity the ensuing year, it is retailed out to the inhabitants at a reasonable rate. To this place all the citizens of the town repair to purchase.

_Morals, Manners, etc._ There is nothing peculiar in the manners or morals of the people of this province, but a much greater degree of luxury among the rich, misery among the poor, and a corruption of morals more general than in New Mexico. As to military spirit, they have none. At a muster of a regiment of militia at Chihuahua one of my men attended, and informed me that there were about 25 who had fire-arms and lances, 50 with bows and arrows and lances, and the balance with lances or bows and arrows only.

_Military Force._ The regular military force of Biscay consists of 1,100 dragoons, distributed as follows: On the frontiers of the deserts of New Mexico and Senora, at the forts of Elisiaira [Elizario], Carracal [Carrizal], San Buenaventura, Presidio del Norte, Janos, Tulenos, and San Juan Baptist [Bautista]. Farther south are Chihuahua, Jeronime [Jeronimo or Hieronimo], Cayone, San Paubla [Pablo], Guaxequillo [Guajuquilla], and Conchos, with several other places which are appendages of those positions. The complement of each of those posts is 150 men, but may be averaged at 1,100 in all, say 100 at each post. The militia are not worthy of particular notice.

_Religion._ Biscay is in the diocese of Durango, the bishop's salary being estimated at $100,000 per annum. The catholic religion is here in its full force, but the inferior clergy are very much dissatisfied. The people's superstition is so great that they run after the holy father in the streets, endeavoring to kiss the hem of his garment; and should the bishop be passing the street, the rich and poor all kneel.

_History._ I shall not presume to say anything on this subject, except that I believe this province has been populated about 270 years.

3. SENORA. _Geography._ The province of Senora lies between lat. 33° and 27° N., and long. 110° and 117° W. Its greatest length from north to south is about 420 miles, and its width from east to west 380 miles. It is bounded north by New Mexico, west by California, south by Sinaloa and the gulf, east by Biscay and New Mexico.[IV'-36]

_Air and Climate._ Dry, pure, and healthy generally, but near the gulf the ground is marshy, and it is, in some of the districts, unhealthy.

_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ On this subject I can only speak in general. Senora abounds in rich gold and silver mines, but more especially the former, inasmuch as gold does not preserve its usual exchange with silver in this province. General Salcedo told me that in this province the largest piece of pure gold had been found ever yet discovered in New Spain, and that it had been sent to the king to be put in his cabinet of curiosities.

_Rivers._[IV'-37] Rio de l'Ascencion is a short river which enters the Gulf of California about 31° N. lat. Rio Yaqui heads on the borders of Biscay and Senora, and discharges into the Gulf of California in Guyamas [Guaymas], lat. 23° N.

_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ This province is, like Biscay, destitute of timber, but has some rich soil near the gulf.

_Animals._ There are deer, cabrie, and bear; there are also remarkably large lizards [_Ctenosaura teres_ of Harlan], which are said to weigh ten pounds; these are perfectly harmless, tamed by the inhabitants, and trained to catch mice.

_Population and Chief Towns._ The population of Senora may be estimated at 200,000 souls, of which three-twentieths probably are Spaniards, four-twentieths Creoles, six-twentieths Metifs, and seven-twentieths Indians.

Arispea [Arizpe[IV'-38]], the capital of Senora, and until 20 years past the seat of government of the internal provinces, is situated in lat. 31° N. and long. 111° W., near the head of the river Yaqui. It is celebrated throughout the kingdom for the urbanity and hospitality of its inhabitants, and the vast quantity of gold table utensils made use of in their houses. Its population is 3,400 souls. Sonora and Terenate are the next cities in magnitude in the province, the latter to the north and the former to the south of the capital.

_Trade and Commerce._ Senora trades with New Mexico and Biscay for the productions of those different provinces, and with Old Mexico both by land and sea, through the gulf of California. It is celebrated for its cheese, horses, and sheep.

_Agriculture._ They cultivate the same as in Biscay.

_Aborigines._ There are a number of savage nations bordering on Senora, which obliges the king to keep up a number of military posts on the north and west frontiers; but the names of the tribes, or any of their distinguishing characters, I am unacquainted with. However, it may not be improper to observe that they are armed with bows, arrows, shields, and lances, like their savage neighbors. The civilized Indians are in the same situations as in the other provinces.

_Government and Laws._ Similar to Biscay, the governor being a brigadier-general and receives $7,000 in addition to his pay in the line.

_Morals and Manners._ In every respect similar to Biscay, except that they are more celebrated for hospitality.

_Military Force._ The regular military force of this province is 900 dragoons and 200 infantry, stationed as follows: Tubson, San Cruz, Tubac, and Altac on the north, with 100 dragoons each for a garrison; Fiuntenas, Bacuachi, Bavista, and Horcasites in the center, with 300 dragoons and 200 infantry; Buenavista on the south, with 100 dragoons as a garrison.[IV'-39] The infantry mentioned above are of a nation of Indians called the Opejas, and are said to be the best soldiers in New Spain. I saw a detachment of them at Chihuahua who appeared to be fine, stout, athletic men, and were the most subordinate and faithful troops I ever knew, acting like a band of brothers and having the greatest attachment for their officers.

_Religion._ Catholic, in the diocese of the bishop of Durango.

_History._ I am unacquainted with it, except that the seat of government of the internal provinces was formerly at Arispea, at which time the government of California was also under the commandant-generalcy of the internal provinces; but the removal of the seat of government to Chihuahua and the disjunct situation of California induced his Majesty to annex it to the government of the viceroyalty. The increasing magnitude of the relations of New Spain with the United States also gave an importance to the eastern interests which induced the continuance of the seat of government at Chihuahua.

4. SINALOA. _Geography._ The province of Sinaloa lies between lat. 23° and 28° N., and long. 108° and 111° W. It is bounded north by Senora and Biscay, east by the latter, south by the administration of Guadalaxara, and west by the gulf of California; in its greatest length it is 300 miles north and south, and in width from east to west 150 miles.[IV'-40]

_Air and Climate._ On the sea-coast humid, but back [of the coast] dry and pure.

_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ There are both gold and silver mines; but with their relative value or productions I am unacquainted.

_Rivers._[IV'-41] Rio [del] Fuerte takes its source in lat. 27° N. and long. 110° W., and disembogues into the gulf of California. It crosses the whole province, and is nearly 150 miles long. Rio Culican [Culiacan] is not more than 50 miles in length, and enters the gulf of California in lat. 25° N.

_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ No timber; soil similar to that of Senora.

_Animals._ Domestic only.

_Population and Chief Towns._ Its population may be estimated at 60,000, not more than three-twentieths of whom are Spaniards; the remainder Creoles, Metifs, and Indians.

Sinaloa is the capital, but its population, extent, etc., to me is unknown.

_Trade and Commerce._ Unacquainted with.

_Agriculture._ The same as Senora.

_Aborigines._ None who are not civilized.

_Government and Laws._ Unacquainted with.

_Military Force._ One hundred dragoons for expresses, and a guard for the governor.

_Religion._ Catholic, in the diocese of the bishop of Durango.

_History._ To me unknown.

5. COGQUILLA. _Geography._ The province of Cogquilla lies between lat. 31° and 33° 30´ N., and long. 101° and 105° W. Its greatest length north and south may be 500 miles, and its greatest width east and west 200 miles. It is bounded north by New Mexico and Texas, east by the latter, San Ander, and New Leon, south by the administration of Zacataca, and west by Biscay.[IV'-42]

_Air and Climate._ Pure and healthy, except about the middle of May, when the heat is intense, and sometimes a scorching wind is felt, like the flame issuing from an oven or furnace, which frequently skins the face and affects the eyes. This phenomenon is felt more sensibly about the setting of the sun than at any other period of the 24 hours.

_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ I know of no mines in this province, except at Montelovez and San Rosa, with the value of which I am unacquainted; but those of San Rosa are reputed to be as rich as any silver mines in the kingdom. Montelovez has none very considerable.

_Rivers._ This province has no river of magnitude or consequence but the Rio Grande, which crosses its northern part in a S. E. direction.[IV'-43]

_Lakes._ There is a small lake called the Aqua [Agua] Verde, situated on its western extremities, which gives rise to a small stream that discharges into the Rio del Norte.

_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ From the river Nassus [Nasas] to the east there is the palmetto, which grows to the height of 20 and 25 feet, with a trunk of 2 feet in diameter. Its leaves are in the shape of a spear, and cover all the trunk when young, but fall off as the tree grows old. Its wood is of a spongy nature, and from every information I could procure, is of the same species as that of the same name in the Southern States.[IV'-44] One hundred miles to the east of the Rio Grande oak timber commences, being the first we saw in the provinces; but it is very small and scrubby, and presents from this to the line of Texas (the river Mariana [Medina, near San Antonio, Tex.]), a very perceptible gradation of the increase of timber, both in quantity, luxuriance, and variety. The country here becomes very similar to the Indiana territory.

_Animals._ Deer, wild horses, a few buffalo and wild hogs [peccaries].

_Population and Chief Towns._ Montelovez [Monclova[IV'-45]] is the capital of Cogquilla. It is situated on a small stream of water in lat. 26° 30´ N. and long. 103° 30´ W. It is about one mile in length, on a course N. 70° E. by the main street. It has two public squares, seven churches, a powder magazine, mills, king's hospital, and quartel del tropa [soldiers' barracks]. This is the principal military depot for the provinces of Cogquilla and Texas. Its population may be estimated at 3,500 souls. This city being the stated residence of his Excellency Governor Cordero, he has ornamented it with public walks, columns, and fountains, and made it one of the handsomest cities in the internal provinces.

Santa Rosa, about 38 miles N. W. of Montelovez, is represented to be the most healthy situation in the province, and to have the best water and fruit. It is on the headwaters of the river Millada [read here Sabinas]. Its population is represented at 4,000 souls. Paras [Parras] is situated on a small stream; with its suburbs it is supposed to contain 7,000 souls, and San Lorenzo, three miles to the north, 500 souls. This place may be termed the vineyard of Cogquilla, the whole population pursuing no other occupation than the cultivation of the grape. Its name denotes the Branches of the Vine. At the Hacienda of San Lorenzo, where we halted, there were 15 larger stills, larger cellars, and a greater number of casks than I ever saw in any brewery of the United States. Its gardens were delightfully interspersed with figs, vines, apricots, and a variety of fruits which are produced in the torrid zone; fine summer-houses, where were wine, refreshments, and couches to repose on, and where the singing of the birds was delightful. There were, likewise, mills and a fine water-fall.

The Presidio [Salto] of Rio Grande is situated on that river, and is remarkable for nothing but three or four handsome missions with which it is surrounded, a powder magazine, quarters for the troops, and a few iron field-pieces on miserable truck carriages. Population 2,500 souls.

The population of this province may be estimated at 70,000 souls, not more than 10,000 of whom are Spaniards.

_Trade, Commerce, and Manufactures._ This province receives all its merchandise from Mexico by land, and in return gives horses, mules, wines, gold, and silver. There is an annual fair held at Saltelo [Saltillo], in New Leon [Coahuila], where an immense quantity of merchandise is disposed of, and where merchants of very large capitals reside.

_Agriculture._ They cultivate the vine principally, with grain and corn sufficient for their own consumption, and to supply the greatest part of Texas.

_Aborigines._ The Appaches cover the northwest frontier. The Lee Pawnees [Lipans: see note 27, p. 746] are a nation who rove from the Rio Grande to some distance into the province of Texas. Their former residence was on the Rio Grande, near the sea-shore. They are at present divided into three bands, of 300, 350, and 100 men each. They are at war with the Tetaus and Appaches, and at peace with the Spaniards. They have fair hair, and are generally handsome, armed with bows, arrows, and lances. They pursue the wild horses, of which they take numbers, and sell them to the Spaniards.

_Government and Laws._ Military and ecclesiastical power is all that is known or acknowledged in this province; but its administration was mild under their excellent Governor Cordero. The governor's civil salary is $4,000 per annum.

_Morals and Manners._ It was evident to the least discerning eye that, as we diverged from these parts which produced such vast quantities of the precious metals, the inhabitants became more industrious, and there were fewer beggars. Thus the morals of the people of Cogquilla were less corrupt than those of Biscay or New Leon, their neighbors.

_Military Force._ There are 400 dragoons maintained in this province, and stationed at Montelovez, San Rosa, Pres. Rio del Norte, and San Fernandez.

_Religion._ Catholic, but mild. It is in the diocese of Durango.

_History._ Cogquilla had not pushed its population as far as the Rio Grande in the year 1687, as at that time La Salle[IV'-46] established himself at the entrance of that river, it being a wilderness; but Montelovez was established some time before this era. Of its particular history I have no knowledge.

6. TEXAS. _Geography._ The province of Texas lies between lat. 27° 30´ and 35° N., and long. 98° and 104° W., bordered north by Louisiana, east by the territory of Orleans, west by Cogquilla and New Mexico, and south by New San Ander. Its greatest length from north to south may be 500 miles, and breadth from east to west 350.

_Air and Climate._ One of the most delightful temperatures in the world; but, being a country covered with timber, the new emigrants are generally sickly, which may justly be attributed to putrescent vegetation, which brings on intermittent and bilious attacks, and, in some instances, malignant fevers. The justice of these remarks is proved by the observations of all the first settlers of our western frontiers, that places which in the course of 10 or 15 years become perfectly healthy, were the first two or three years quite the reverse, and generally cost them the loss of two or three members of their families.

_Mines, Minerals, and Fossils._ The only one known and worked is a mine of lead.

_Rivers._[IV'-47] The river St. Antonio takes its source about one league to the northeast of the capital of the province, St. Antonio, and is navigable for canoes to its source, affording excellent fish, fine mill seats, and water to every part of the town. It is joined from the west by the river Mariana, which forms part of the line between Cogquilla and Texas, and then discharges into the Rio Guadelupe about 50 miles from the sea. At the town of St. Antonio it is about 20 yards wide, and in some places 12 feet in depth. The river Guadelupe takes its source about 150 miles to the northwest of St. Antonio; where we crossed it, it was a beautiful stream, at least 60 yards in width. Its waters are transparent and navigable for canoes. After receiving the waters of the St. Antonio and St. Marco it discharges into the southwest end of the bay of St. Bernardo [Matagorda]. At the crossing of this river there is a range for the horses of St. Antonio and a guarde de caballo, with an elegant site for a town. . The river St. Marco takes its source about 100 miles north, 20 west of St. Antonio, and at the crossing of the road is 30 yards in width, a clear and navigable stream for canoes. By the road this river is only 14 miles from the Guadelupe, into which it discharges.

The Red [or Colorado] river [of Texas] takes its source in the province of Cogquilla in lat. 33° N. and long. 104° 30´ W., but, bending to the east, enters the province of Texas, and after a winding course of about 600 miles disembogues into the bay of St. Bernard [Matagorda], in lat. 29° N. Where the road traverses it, it is at least 150 yards wide, and has a guard of dragoons stationed on its banks. Its waters are of a reddish cast, whence it probably derived its name. This stream is navigable for boats of three or four tons burden.

The river Brassos [Brazos] takes its source in the province of Cogquilla in lat. 34° N. and long. 105° W., enters the province of Texas, and discharges into the gulf of Mexico in lat. 28° 40´, after a course of 750 miles. It is the largest river in the province, and, where the road crosses, is 300 yards wide and navigable for large keels. From the appearances on its banks it must rise and fall 100 feet. Its waters were red and turbid; its banks well timbered, with a rich, prolific soil. Here was kept the only boat I recollect to have seen in the provinces.

The river Trinity takes its source in lat. 34° N. and long. 99° W., and discharges into Galueston's [Galveston] bay in lat. 29° 30´ N. By its meanders it is about 300 miles in length. Where the road crosses it is about 60 yards in width, with high, steep banks covered with timber, and a rich, luxuriant soil.

The Nachez [Neches] and Angelina are small rivers, of about 20 yards in width, which, after forming a junction, discharge into the Trinity. The river Toyac is a small stream, which discharges into the gulf of Mexico, at the same bay with the Sabine, in about lat. 29° 50´ N. and long. 97° W.[IV'-48]

The Sabine river, the present limits between the Spanish dominions and the territories of the United States in that quarter, takes its source in about lat. 33° N., and enters the gulf of Mexico in 29° 50´. It may be 300 miles in length by its meanders, and at the road about 50 yards in width. Here the Spaniards keep a guard and a ferry-boat.

_Lakes._ Some small ones near the head of the Guadelupe and some branches of Red river.

_Timber, Plains, and Soil._ This province is well timbered for 100 miles from the coast, but has some small prairies interspersed through its timbered land; take it generally, it is one of the richest, most prolific, and best watered countries in North America.

_Animals._ Buffalo, deer, elk, wild hogs [peccaries], and wild horses, the latter of which are in such numbers as to afford supplies for all the savages who border on the province, the Spaniards, and vast droves for the other provinces. They are also sent into the United States, notwithstanding the trade is contraband. They go in such large gangs that it is requisite to keep an advanced guard of horsemen in order to frighten them away; for should they be suffered to come near the horses and mules which you drive with you, by their snorting, neighing, etc., they would alarm them, and frequently the domestic animals would join them and go off, notwithstanding all the exertions of the dragoons to prevent them. A gentleman told me he saw 700 beasts carried off [stampeded] at one time, not one of which was ever recovered. They also in the night frequently carry off the droves of travelers' horses, and even come within a few miles of St. Antonio, and take off the horses in that vicinity.

The method pursued by the Spanish in taking them is as follows: They take a few fleet horses and proceed into the country where the wild horses are numerous. They then build a large strong inclosure, with a door which enters a smaller inclosure; from the entrance of the large pen they project wings out into the prairie a great distance, and then set up bushes, etc., to induce the horses, when pursued, to enter into these wings. After these preparations are made they keep a lookout for a small drove, for, if they unfortunately should start too large a one, they either burst open the pen or fill it up with dead bodies, and the others run over them and escape; in which case the party are obliged to leave the place, as the stench arising from the putrid carcasses would be insupportable; and, in addition to this, the pen would not receive others. Should they, however, succeed in driving in a few, say two or three hundred, they select the handsomest and youngest, noose them, take them into the small inclosure, and then turn out the remainder; after which, by starving, preventing them taking any repose, and continually keeping them in motion, they make them gentle by degrees, and finally break them to submit to the saddle and bridle. For this business I presume there is no nation in the world superior to the Spaniards of Texas.

_Population and Chief Towns._ St. Antonio, the capital of the province, lies in lat. 29° 50´ N. and long. 101° W., and is situated on the headwaters of the river of that name; it contains perhaps 2,000 souls, most of whom reside in miserable mud-wall houses, covered with thatched grass roofs. The town is laid out on a very grand plan. To the east of it, on the other side of the river, is the station of the troops.

About two, three, and four miles from St. Antonio are three missions, formerly flourishing and prosperous. Those buildings, for solidity, accommodation, and even majesty, were surpassed by few that I saw in New Spain. The resident priest treated us with the greatest hospitality, and was respected and beloved by all who knew him. He made a singular observation relative to the aborigines who had formerly formed the population of those establishments under charge of the monks. I asked him what had become of the natives. He replied that it appeared to him that they could not exist under the shadow of the whites, as the nations who formed those missions had been nurtured, taken all the care of that it was possible, and put on the same footing as the Spaniards; yet, notwithstanding, they had dwindled away until the other two missions had become entirely depopulated, and the one where he resided had not then more than sufficient to perform his household labor; from this he had formed an idea that God never intended them to form one people, but that they should always remain distinct and separate.

Nacogdoches is merely a station for troops, and contains nearly 500 souls. It is situated on a small stream of the river Toyac.

The population of Texas may be estimated at 7,000. These are principally Spanish, Creoles, some French, some Americans, and a few civilized Indians and half-breeds.

_Trade and Commerce._ This province trades with Mexico by Mont El Rey and Montelovez for merchandise, and with New Orleans by Nachitoches; but the latter trade, being contraband, is liable to great danger and risks. They give in return specie, horses, and mules.

_Agriculture._ The American emigrants are introducing some little spirit of agriculture near Nacogdoches and the Trinity; but the oppressions and suspicions they labor under prevent their proceeding with that spirit which is necessary to give success to the establishment of a new country.

_Aborigines._ The Tancards [note 12, p. 705] are a nation of Indians who rove on the banks of Red river, and are 600 men strong. They follow the buffalo and wild horses, and carry on a trade with the Spaniards. They are armed with the bow, arrow, and lance. They are erratic and confined to no particular district; are a tall, handsome people; in conversation they have a peculiar cluckling, express more by signs than any savages I ever visited, and in fact language appears to have made less progress. They complained much of their situation and the treatment of the Spaniards; are extremely poor, and, except the Appaches, were the most independent Indians we encountered in the Spanish territories. They possess large droves of horses.

There are a number of other nations now nearly extinct, some of which are mentioned by Dr. Sibley in a report he made to the government of the United States on these subjects. A few, and very few indeed, of those nations have been converted by the missions, and these are not in that state of vassalage in which the Indians further to the south are held. [Notes 17, 21, 22, pp. 709, 713, 714.]

_Government and Laws._ Perfectly military, except as to the ecclesiastical jurisdiction.

_Morals and Manners._ They being on the frontier, where buffalo and wild horses abound, and not engaged in any war with savages who are powerful, have adopted a mode of living by following those animals, which has been productive of a more wandering disposition round the capital (St. Antonio) than in any other of the provinces. Cordero, restricting by edicts the buffalo hunts to certain seasons, and obliging every man of family to cultivate so many acres of land, has in some degree checked the spirit of hunting or wandering life which had been hitherto so very prevalent, and has endeavored to introduce, by his example and precepts, a general urbanity and suavity of manners which rendered St. Antonio one of the most agreeable places that we met with in the provinces.

_Military Force._ There were in Texas at the time I came through 988 [888?] men, from the actual returns of the troops which I have seen, 500 of whom were from St. Ander and New Leon, under command of governor Herrara. The disposition of those troops is as follows: 388 at St. Antonio, 400 [300?] at the cantonment of [Blank, 300 marked on map low down] on the Trinity, 100 at the [crossing of the] Trinity, and 100 at Nacogdoches. The militia, a rabble made somewhat respectable by a few American riflemen who are incorporated amongst them, are about 300 men, including bow and arrow men.

_Religion._ Catholic, but much relaxed.

_History._ To me unknown, except what can be extracted from various authors on that subject.

GENERAL REMARKS ON NEW SPAIN.

To become acquainted with all the civil and political institutes of a country requires a perfect knowledge of the language, a free ingress to the archives, and a residence of some years; even then we can scarcely distinguish between the statute laws and common law, derived from custom, morals, and habits. Under those circumstances, it cannot be expected that I shall be able to say much on the subject, as I possessed none of the above advantages. I will, however, offer a few observations. To a stranger it is impossible to define the limits of the military and ecclesiastical jurisdictions; in every affair which relates to the citizens, and in fact with the soldiery, the force of superstition is such that I am doubtful whether they would generally obey one of their officers in a direct violation of the injunction of their religious professions. The audiences of Mexico and Guadalaxara were formed, no doubt, as a check on the immense power of the viceroy. The number of members composing each is to me unknown, but they are formed of the viceroy as president, with two votes, generals, and bishops. To their jurisdictions the appeals from the judgment of the intendants and all subordinate officers may be made in civil cases; but the military and ecclesiastical decisions are distinct. Notwithstanding all this semblance of justice, should an individual dare to make the appeal and not succeed in establishing the justice of his claim to redress, he is certainly ruined. Where justice is so little attended to, when opposed to power and wealth, as in the Spanish provinces, the appeal is a desperate remedy. This tribunal or legislative body enacts all the laws for the general regulations of their divisions of the kingdom.

The captain-generalcy of the internal provinces appeared to me to be much more despotic, for the laws or regulations were issued in the form of an order merely, without any kind of a preamble whatsoever, except sometimes he would say, "By order of the king"; and such was the style of governors of provinces.

_Morals, Manners, etc._ For hospitality, generosity, and sobriety the people of New Spain exceed any nation perhaps on the globe; but in national energy, patriotism, enterprise of character, or independence of soul, they are perhaps the most deficient. Yet there are men who have displayed bravery to a surprising degree, and the Europeans who are there cherish with delight the idea of their gallant ancestry.

Their women have black eyes and hair, fine teeth, and are generally brunettes. I met but one exception to this rule, at Chihuahua--a fair lady, who, by way of distinction, was called "the girl with light hair." They are all inclining a little to enbonpoint; but none or few are elegant figures. Their dress generally is short jackets and petticoats and high-heeled shoes, without any head-dress. Over the whole dress they have a silk wrapper,[IV'-49] which they always wear and, when in the presence of men, affect to bring over their faces, but from under which you frequently see peeping a large sparkling black eye. As we approached the Atlantic and our frontiers, we saw several ladies who wore the gowns of our countrywomen, which they conceived to be much more elegant than their ancient costume. The lower class of the men are generally dressed in broad-brimmed hats, short coats, large waistcoats, and small clothes always open at the knees (owing, as I suppose, to the greater freedom it gives to the limbs on horseback), a kind of leather boot or wrapper bound round the leg somewhat in the manner of our frontier-men's leggings, and gartered on. The boot is of a soft, pliable leather, but not colored. In the eastern provinces the dragoons wear, over this wrapper or boot, a sort of jack-boot made of sole-leather, to which are fastened, by a rivet, the spurs, the gaffs of which are sometimes near an inch in length; but the spurs of the gentlemen and officers, although clumsy to our ideas, are frequently ornamented with raised silver-work on the shoulders, and the straps embroidered with silver and gold thread. They are always ready to mount their horses, on which the inhabitants of the internal provinces spend nearly half the day. This description will apply generally to the dress of all the men of the provinces for the lower class; but in their cities, among the more fashionable, they dress after the European or United States modes, with not more variation than we see in our cities from one six months to another.

Both men and women have remarkably fine hair, and pride themselves in the display of it. Their amusements are music, singing, dancing, and gambling. The latter is strictly prohibited, but the prohibition is not much attended to. The dance of ---- is danced by one man and two women, who beat time to the music, which is soft and voluptuous, but sometimes changing to a lively, gay air. The dancers exhibit the motions of the soul by gestures of the body, snapping the fingers, and sometimes meeting in a stretched embrace. The fandango is danced to various figures and numbers. The minuet is still danced by the superior class only. The music made use of is the guitar, violin, and singers, who, in the first-described dance, accompany the music with their hands and voices, having always some words adapted to the music.

Their games are cards, billiards, horse-racing, and cock-fighting, the first and last of which are carried to the most extravagant lengths, losing and winning immense sums. The present commandant-general is very severe with his officers in these respects, frequently sending them to some frontier post in confinement for months, for no other fault than having lost large sums at play. At every town of consequence is a public walk, where the ladies and gentlemen meet and sing songs, which are always on the subject of love or the social board. The females have fine voices, and sing in French, Italian, and Spanish, the whole company joining in the chorus.

In their houses the ladies play the guitar, and generally accompany it with their voices. They either sit down on the carpet cross-legged, or loll on a sofa. To sit upright in a chair appeared to put them to great inconvenience; although the better class would sometimes do it on our first introduction, they soon took the liberty of following their old habits. In their eating and drinking they are remarkably temperate. Early in the morning you receive a dish of chocolate and a cake; at twelve you dine on several dishes of meat, fowls, and fish, after which you have a variety of confections, and indeed an elegant dessert; then drink a few glasses of wine, sing a few songs, and retire to take the siesta, or afternoon's nap, which is taken by rich and poor. About two o'clock the windows and doors are all closed, the streets deserted, and the stillness of midnight reigns throughout. About four o'clock they rise, wash and dress, and prepare for the dissipation of the night. About eleven o'clock some refreshments are offered, but few take any, except a little wine and water and candied sugar.

The government has multiplied the difficulties of Europeans intermarrying with the Creoles or Metifs to such a degree that it is difficult for such a marriage to take place. An officer wishing to marry a lady not from Europe is obliged to acquire certificates of the purity of her descent 200 years back, and transmit it to the court, when the license will be returned; but should she be the daughter of a man of the rank of captain or upward this nicety vanishes, as rank purifies the blood of the descendants.

The general subjects of conversations among the men are women, money, and horses, which appear to be the only objects, in their estimation, worthy of consideration. Uniting the female sex with their money and their beasts, and having treated them too much after the manner of the latter, they have eradicated from their breasts every sentiment of virtue or ambition, either to pursue the acquirements which would make them amiable companions, instructive mothers, or respectable members of society; their whole souls, with a few exceptions, being, like those of Turkish ladies, taken up in music, dress, and the little blandishments of voluptuous dissipation. Finding that the men only regard them as objects of gratification to the sensual passions, they have lost every idea of that feast of reason and flow of soul which arise from the intercourse of two refined and virtuous minds.

The beggars of the City of Mexico are estimated at 60,000 souls; what must be the number through the whole kingdom, and to what reason can it be owing that, in a country superior to any in the world for riches in gold and silver, producing all the necessaries of life and most of its luxuries, there should be such a vast proportion of the inhabitants in want of bread or clothing? It can only be accounted for by the tyranny of the government and the luxuries of the rich. The government strives, by all the restrictions possible to be invented without absolutely driving the people to desperation, to keep Spanish America dependent on Europe.

_Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, and Revenue._ The trade and commerce of New Spain are carried on with Europe and the United States by the port of Vera Cruz solely, and with the East Indies and South America generally by Acapulco; and, even at these ports, under such restriction as to productions, manufactures, and time, as to render it of little consequence to the general prosperity of the country. Were all the numerous bays and harbors of the gulfs of Mexico and California opened to the trade of the world, and a general license given to the cultivation of all the productions of which the country is capable, with freedom of exportation and importation, with proper duties on foreign goods, the country would immediately become rich and powerful, and a proper stimulus would be held out to the poor to labor, when certain of finding a quick and ready sale for the productions of their plantations or manufactories. The country abounds in iron ore, yet all the iron and steel, and articles of manufactures, are obliged to be brought from Europe, the manufacturing or working of iron being strictly prohibited. This occasions the necessary articles of husbandry, arms, and tools to be enormously high, and is a great check to agriculture, improvements in manufactures, and military skill. The works of the Mexicans, in gold, silver, and painting, show them naturally to have a genius which, with cultivation and improvement, might rival the greatest masters of either ancient or modern times. Their dispositions and habits are peculiarly calculated for sedentary employments, and I have no doubt, if proper establishments were made, they would soon rival, if not surpass, the most extensive woolen, cotton, or silk manufactures of Europe; their climate being proper to raise the finest cotton in the world, and their sheep possessing all the fineness of wool for which they are so celebrated in Spain. Under these circumstances, together with the immense quantities of the raw materials which they have on hand, wool sells for a mere trifle; and, in fact, they scarcely take half from the fleece of the sheep, for the coarse manufactures of the country and to make beds.

I cannot presume to state the revenues of the country from official documents, but the following statements I have had from so respectable a source, and they are so confirmed by my own observations, that I think much reliance may be placed on their correctness. The mint coins, per annum, at least, $50,000,000 in silver and $14,000,000 in gold, the one-fifth of which (the duty) is equal to $12,800,000.[IV'-50] The duties on foreign goods and the amount paid by the purchasers of monopolies may be estimated at $4,000,000; which, with the duty on gold and silver, makes the annual revenue $16,800,000. The civil list of the kingdom is $580,000, the military $7,189,200; these together amount to $7,760,200, which, deducted from the gross revenue of $16,700,000, leaves a clear revenue for the king from his Mexican dominions of $9,030,800. The money paid for the support of the clergy is not included in this estimate, as they receive their revenue through its own proper channel. The best paid officers under the government cost the king nothing in a direct line, yet the oppressive manner in which they pay themselves and impoverish the people would render it better policy to abolish their impositions and pay them out of the public treasury by a direct salary.

_Return of Military Force in New Spain._

Key Code:

C = Cavalry.
A = Artillery.
I = Infantry.
F = Fire-arms.
B.A.L. = Bows, arrows, and lances.

==============+=================+================= | | | Disciplined | Regular Provinces | and Regular | Troops of the and | European Troops.| Country. Places. +-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----- | C | A | I | C | A | I --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----- Xalapa Ina. | | | | | | Vera Cruz | | 200| 2000| 2000| | Vera Cruz and | | | | | | sea-ports | | 800| 2000| | | Mexico | 1000| | | | | 1000 Provinces and | | | | | | viceroyalty | | | | | | New Mexico | | | | 100| | Biscay | | | | 1100| | Senora | | | | 900| | 200 Sinaloa | | | | 100| | Cogquilla | | | | 400| | Texas | | | | 488| | +-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----- Total | 1000| 1000| 4000| 5088| | 1200 --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----

==============+=================+============ | Militia with | | Regular | Probable Provinces | Field Officers | Armed and | and under Pay. | Citizens. Places. +-----+-----+-----+-----+------ | C | A | I | F |B.A.L. --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------ Xalapa Ina. | | | | | Vera Cruz | 3000| | 1000| | Vera Cruz and | | | | | sea-ports | 600| | 2000| | Mexico | 3400| 1000| | | Provinces and | | | | | viceroyalty | | | |15000| 80000 New Mexico | | | | 1000| 4000 Biscay | | | | 5000| 8000 Senora | | | | 5000| 3000 Sinaloa | | | | 3000| 6000 Cogquilla | | | | 1000| 2000 Texas | | | | 500| 1000 +-----+-----+-----+-----+------ Total | 7000| 1000| 3000|30500|109000 --------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+------

Cavalry. Artillery. Infantry.

Regular troops, European 1000 1000 4000
Regular troops, Mexican 5088 .... 1200
Trained militia 7000 1000 3000
----- ---- ----
Total 13088 2000 8200

Cavalry 13088
Artillery 2000
Infantry 8200
------
Total 23288 disciplined and effective force.
------
30500 undisciplined militia.
109000 bow, arrow, and lance men.
------
162788 total force.

The European troops are some of the choicest regiments from Spain; consequently, we may put them on the supposition that they are well disciplined, and officered by men of honor and science.

The regular troops of the kingdom who are in the viceroyalty, acting from the stimulant of ambition and envy, are supposed to be equal to their brethren from Europe. The militia, with the regular officers, are likewise good troops, but are not held in so high estimation as the other corps. Those three corps, forming a body of 23,288 men, may be called the regular force of the kingdom, as the militia of 139,500 would, in my estimation, be of no more consequence against the regular troops of any civilized power than the ancient aborigines of the country were against the army of Cortes.

The particular observations which follow must be considered as applying to the troops of the internal provinces, unless it is stated to the contrary.