Chapter XV: Part 15

Cut up a large fowl or a small poularde into eight pieces, that is, the two legs, the two wings, with a piece of the fillet attached, two pieces of breast and two pieces of back, put them into a sauté-pan with eight spoonfuls of oil and six onions, peeled and cut in thin slices, season with a little pepper and salt, place it over a slow fire, move and turn them occasionally; when done, lay them on a cloth, to drain off all the oil, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, dress the inferior pieces at the bottom, and the better one at the top, dressing them as tastefully as possible, put the stewpan again on the fire, pour off as much oil as possible, and mix a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour with the onions, then twelve spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and eight of white stock, add a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, and a little more sugar, take it off the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs, sauce over, egg and bread-crumb all over, set it in a very hot oven ten minutes, salamander, and serve.

No. 831. _Turban de Quenelles de Volaille à la Russe._

Take the flesh of a nice delicate large fowl, and with it make some forcemeat as directed (No. 122); when done make eight large quenelles with two silver tablespoons, by filling one of them with forcemeat, dip your knife in hot water, and smooth it over in a slight dome, then dip the other spoon in hot water, and scoop the quenelle from the first spoon with it, taking it into the hot spoon, from which it will easily slip, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, and cover with good second broth, place them over a quick fire, boil twenty minutes, and lay them out on a cloth; cut also eight pieces from a boiled Russian tongue, the size of the quenelles and the thickness of two five-shilling pieces which warm in a little consommé; make a border of mashed potatoes, cut a little piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and dress them alternately with a piece of the tongue in crown; break the bones of the fowl up very small, and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry, one minced onion, one bay-leaf, a little thyme, and one clove; boil it two minutes, then add a quart of white stock, reduce it to half, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; finish with two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream, and a little sugar, sauce over the quenelles, glaze the tongue, and serve with the remainder of the sauce round and in the centre.

No. 832. _Quenelles de Volaille à l’Ecarlate._

Proceed precisely as above, using plain ox-tongue instead of the Russian.

No. 833. _Quenelles de Volaille aux concombres._

Make eight quenelles as before, then procure a fine hothouse cucumber, from which cut and trim eight pieces the size of your quenelles, put them in a stewpan with a pat of butter and a little sugar, pass them over a slow fire ten minutes, then add six spoonfuls of white broth, and let them simmer very gently till quite done, but not too much so, or it would be impossible to dress them; then poach the quenelles and lay them on a cloth to drain with the cucumber, have ready a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, cut a little piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and dress them alternately with the cucumber in crown; have ready the following sauce: add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) to the stock the cucumber was dressed in, reduce it till it adheres to the spoon, add a tablespoonful of cream, sauce over, and serve.

No. 834. _Quenelles de Volaille en demi deuil._

Make twelve quenelles as before, poach them and lay them on a cloth, have ready chopped two or three very black truffles, dip six of the quenelles in some egg well-beaten, roll them in the chopped truffles, place them in a dish, cover them up and stand them in the hot closet an hour; place the other six in some fresh stock in a stewpan and keep hot in the bain-marie, have ready a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, cut a piece off the bottom of each of the quenelles, dress the six black ones on one side and the white ones on the other to form a crown, put ten spoonfuls of milk in a stewpan, boil it, and add a pint of white sauce (No 7); reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two pats of butter and the juice of a lemon, sauce over the white quenelles; you will probably have a few chopped truffles left, which sprinkle over, and serve the remainder of the sauce in the centre.

No. 835. _Quenelles de Volaille à la York Minster._

Make and poach twelve quenelles as before, dip them in egg, and then roll them in some finely chopped cooked lean York ham, place them on a dish, cover and put them in the hot closet to dry; make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress one red and one white quenelle alternately, put twelve good spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with ten of boiled milk and a little sugar, let reduce till it adheres to the spoon, add about forty strips of the cooked ham cut the size of julienne-roots, sauce over and serve; finish the sauce with a little cream.

No. 836. _Quenelles de Volaille à la Pair de France._

Make eight quenelles as before, and when laying in the sauté-pan make a long incision in each, in which put a very white middle-sized dressed cockscomb, cover them with white stock, and poach very gently for a quarter of an hour; have also poached a solid piece of forcemeat four inches in diameter and two and a half in height, with a long round cutter cut four holes near the centre, large enough to stand in four plovers’ eggs, which peel and warm in a little stock, and between the four on the top place a fifth; cut a small piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and stand them upright upon a little mashed potatoes against the centre piece, the cockscombs facing outwards, sauce over with a very white thin purée of artichokes (No. 90), and serve with a little chopped chervil sprinkled over them.

No. 837. _Quenelles de Volaille à la Silêne._

Pass a tablespoonful of chopped onions in butter in a stewpan over a sharp fire, and when they begin to colour add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well in, then add half a pint of brown sauce, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, two teaspoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and one of chopped parsley, reduce five minutes, take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly; you have previously poached ten quenelles as before, and when cold dip them into the above sauce, covering them all over, (previously cutting a small piece off the bottom,) then dip them into some egg well-beaten, and then into bread-crumbs, pat them a little with your knife and repeat the operation; fry them a nice colour in a stewpan containing four pounds of very hot lard, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of consommé free from salt in a stewpan, with some bones of a raw or cooked fowl and a bunch of parsley, boil it till reduced to half, squeeze in the juice of twelve grapes, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, reduce to a thin glaze, add half a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a little sugar, pour it in the centre of your dish and serve very hot.

No. 838. _Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu._

Make sufficient of the above forcemeat, for twelve quenelles, lay a little flour on your dresser, upon which place twelve pieces of the forcemeat, each of the size of a quenelle, roll each a little with the hand, then with a knife form them into pieces two inches long and nearly an inch wide, place them in a buttered sauté-pan as you do them, and poach exactly as for the quenelles, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) and serve.

No. 839. _Boudins de Volaille à la Sully._

Make the same quantity of forcemeat as for the last, lay it on your dresser and divide it into five pieces, flatten them with your knife, having sufficient flour on the board to prevent them sticking; have a salpicon as for croquettes (see next), place a little of it upon the centre of each piece of forcemeat, roll them up, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, cover with stock and poach them twenty minutes, drain on a cloth, cut off the ends, and lay them on your dish, three at the bottom and two across, sauce the same as the last and serve.

No. 840. _Croquettes de Volaille aux truffes._

Cut up a small braised fowl (or the remains of two or three left from a previous dinner) into very small dice (or mince), cut also two large truffles of the same size, put half a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them three minutes over the fire, add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, then put in the fowl and truffles and half a pint of white sauce (No. 7)--or more if not sufficiently moist, boil all together ten minutes, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, then stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire, turn it out on a dish to cool; when cold take twelve pieces, each the size of a very large walnut, roll them about an inch and a half in length, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry a good colour in hot lard, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce aux truffes (No. 51) in the centre. The remainder of a previous dinner of any kind of poultry may be used for croquettes.

No. 841. _Croquettes de Volaille au Jambon_

Are made in the same manner as in the last, only using cooked lean ham instead of truffles, and serving a little blanquette de volaille au jambon (see blanquette de dinde, No. 88) in the centre; croquettes de volaille à l’écarlate are made the same, merely substituting some cooked tongue and adding tongue to the blanquette; when made larger they are called boudins, but the croquettes are preferable, being more crisp.

No. 842. _Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour._

Make half a pound of forcemeat (No. 122), then have ready two buttered sauté-pans, place half of the forcemeat in the centre of each, then spread it over the bottom to the thickness of half-a-crown piece with a spoon, occasionally dipping the spoon in white of egg; then cover them over with stock and place them on a moderate fire, let them simmer for five minutes, take off as much of the stock as possible, and leave them in the sauté-pans to get half cold, take them out with a fish-slice, place one of them on a dish, then have prepared a salpicon as for the croquettes aux truffes (No. 840), cover the sheet of forcemeat with it a quarter of an inch in thickness, then cover the other sheet over it, press them lightly together; when cold cut it out in diamond shapes (with a knife) about two inches long and one wide; then have ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a quarter of a pat of butter, pass them over the fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a gill of milk, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred; then take it off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it over the fire another half a minute, then take each piece upon a fork and dip it into the sauce, cover it all over and place it upon a plate; proceed in like manner till they are all done, put them by till quite cold, have ready some good fritter-batter (No. 1285) made with milk, dip each rissolette in with a fork and drop it into a stewpan of rather hot lard, fry five minutes, dress them on a napkin, and serve with plenty of fried parsley the moment they are done.

They may also be served with sauce (omitting the napkin) as follows: put eight spoonfuls of white sauce into a stewpan, with six of cream, place it over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar and salt, sauce round and serve.

No. 843. _Filets de Canetons aux petits pois._

Roast four ducklings in vegetables as directed in the Removes, take away the vegetables just before they are done, to give the breasts a slight colour; then cut out the fillets very neatly, dress them on a small border of mashed potatoes with a thin crouton of fried bread between each, put a pint and a half of young green peas (previously boiled) in a stewpan, with the gravy that has run from the ducklings, two ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, keep tossing them over the fire till quite hot, then add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir it in quickly, place them in the centre of the dish in pyramid and serve.

No. 844. _Filets de Canetons à la chicorée._

Proceed with the ducklings precisely as above, fillet and dress the same, serve with some endive prepared as directed (No. 119) in the centre, but not too much nor too thick.

No. 845. _Filets de Canetons à la macédoine de lêgumes._

Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, then prepare a stand of vegetables as directed for Chartreuse (No. 604), but not more than two inches in height, fill it with stewed cabbage well pressed and almost dry, and turn it out on your dish; when perfectly hot and the vegetables sufficiently cooked, dress the fillets in crown on the top, have ready a Macédoine de legume (No. 98), which dress in pyramid in the centre and serve.

No. 846. _Filets de Canetons au jus d’orange._

Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put twenty spoonfuls of brown sauce in a stewpan with ten of white stock, place it over the fire to boil, with some bones from the breast of the ducklings, boil to a demi-glace, keeping it skimmed, take out the bones and pass the sauce through a tammie, then add the rind of an orange free from pith, which you have previously cut in fillets and blanched five minutes in boiling water, boil the sauce a few minutes, keeping it stirred, and finish with the juice of half the orange, sauce over and serve. This sauce requires to be quite transparent, but to have consistence enough to adhere to the fillets; filets de canetons à la bigarade are the same as above, merely substituting a Seville or real bigarade for a sweet orange.

No. 847. _Filets de Canetons farcis._

Bone a duckling by placing it on your board and opening it at the back-bone, which is first to be taken out, then lay it out flat: take out the other bones singly, and cover the interior with forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), filling up every cavity and making it perfectly level on the top, put some thin slices of bacon at the bottom of a deep sauté-pan with a bunch of parsley and a few onions in slices, lay the duckling over and cover with white stock, lay a sheet of buttered paper over and put it in a slow oven for one hour or more till tender, take it up, lay it on a dish free from the bacon or onions, place another dish over and press it till cold, then cut it into pieces the size and shape of the other fillets above, warm them in a sauté-pan in a little good stock, dress them in crown and serve in any of the preceding ways.

ENTRÉES OF GAME.

No. 848. _Filets de Lièvre sauce reforme._

Procure three good-sized but young hares, when skinned lay them on a table and pass a knife down the back-bone, from the shoulder to the leg, keeping it close to the ribs till you have extracted the fillet, when done lay the fillets on a board the skin side downwards, and with a thin knife cut off the whole of the skin, by pressing your hand upon the fillet and drawing the knife along from the thin end to the thick; cut each fillet in halves, beat them lightly, trim them of a nice shape, and lard them neatly, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the fillets over, add three onions in slices with a bunch of parsley, a blade of mace, and a couple of cloves, put in a little broth, but not to cover them, place the lid on the stewpan and place them in a moderate oven till tender, glaze and salamander a nice colour, take them out, drain them a minute on a cloth, trim nicely, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce reforme (No. 35) over, previously placing a thin piece of toasted bread the same size as the fillets between each.

No. 849. _Filets de Lièvre piqué sauce poivrade._

Proceed exactly as in the last, dress them in crown without the pieces of toast, and serve with a sauce poivrade (No. 32) over, dressed in the same manner, they may be served with a sauce tomate (No. 37).

No. 850. _Filets de Lièvre piqué à la Bourguignote._

Proceed and dress your fillets exactly as before, and have ready the following sauce: peel forty button onions, then put a little pounded sugar in a stewpan, which place over the fire, when it melts and turns yellowish put in a pat of butter and your onions, keep moving them over a slow fire till they become rather brown, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and six tablespoonfuls of consommé, place it at the corner of the stove, and skim well, let simmer till the onions are done; then take them out with a colander spoon and place them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the onions, have twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon in diamonds the size of the onions, put them in the sauce, which make hot, but not to boil, sauce over and serve.

No. 851. _Filets de Lièvre piqué, mariné en demi-glace._

Prepare and lard twelve pieces of fillets as usual, have ready a quart of marinade, see filet de bœuf à la Bohemienne (No. 426), and put them into it for three days; when wanted dry them on a cloth, butter a sauté-pan, lay in the fillets, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and stand them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, glaze and salamander a light brown, and dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, then pour as much of the butter off from the sauté-pan as possible, and put eight spoonfuls of the marinade and a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) into it, reduce over the fire, keeping it stirred till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a small piece of glaze and a teaspoonful of currant jelly; sauce over and serve.

No. 852. _Escalopes de Lièvre à la Chasseur._

Fillet three hares as before and cut each fillet into four escalopes in a slanting direction; beat them into an oval shape, put an ounce of butter in a deep sauté-pan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots; when the butter is melted lay in the escalopes, season them with a little pepper and salt, and place them on a sharp fire; when half done turn them over, be careful not to do them too much; when done dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, pour off the butter, then put a glass of port wine in the sauté-pan, with fifteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), a little salt, and sugar, reduce it three minutes, keeping it stirred, sauce over and serve.

No. 853. _Cotelettes de Lièvre à la Dauphine._

Fillet two hares as before, and out of each fillet cut three cotelettes by cutting each fillet in halves, making one of the thin end and cutting the thick into two equal slices, thus making twelve pieces of the four fillets; beat them of an equal thickness, boil the rib-bones of one of the hares till all the flesh comes off, and stick a bone in each piece to imitate the bone of a cotelette, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but not too much done, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and sauce over with a sauce piquante (No. 27) in which you have introduced a few chopped olives.

No. 854. _Turban de Lièvre à la Péronne._

Fillet one large hare and make six cotelettes out of the two fillets as in the last, egg and bread-crumb them with a little chopped ham mixed with the bread-crumbs, and fry in oil as before; you have previously made forcemeat of the legs as described (No. 123), with which make six large quenelles, poach, and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes alternately with the cotelettes; have ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with two of tarragon vinegar and a piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, place over the fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce and eight spoonfuls of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add a little sugar and twenty small pickled onions; sauce over the quenelles, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

For boudins de lièvre, or quenelles, proceed the same as for boudins or quenelles de volaille, only using forcemeat made from the legs of the hare instead of the forcemeat of fowl; and for jugged hare and civet de lièvre, see Kitchen at Home. They may be made from the legs after you have taken the fillets for other purposes.

No. 855. _Filets de Lapereau à la Valencienne._

For entrées the tame rabbits are the best, and most preferable; but the wild are very good and may be dressed in any of the following ways.

Take three or four young rabbits, skin and fillet them the same as the hares; if the fillets are sufficiently large cut each one in halves forming each piece in the shape of a small cotelette, beat them lightly and of equal thickness, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, season with a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place them over a moderate fire and when half done turn them; they are done as soon as they feel firm to the touch, and must be kept quite white, dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, put eighteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan, with ten of white stock, stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little pepper and salt if required, finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream and the juice of half a lemon; sauce over and serve.

No. 856. _Filets de Lapereau à l’Ecarlate._

Fillet three rabbits and so cut the fillets as to have nine pieces, which cook as in the last, then cut nine slices of cooked ham of the same size and shape as the fillets, and make them hot in a little stock, dress them alternately with the fillets in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of white stock in the sauté-pan, stir over the fire until nearly thick enough, then add twenty heads of blanched mushrooms and a little sugar, boil another minute, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream; sauce over the fillets, glaze the tongue and serve.

No. 857. _Turban de Lapereau à la Douarière._

Fillet three good-sized rabbits and cut each fillet in halves, making twelve pieces, six of which lard neatly; dress the six plain as before, but the six larded ones must be braised like sweetbreads, and glazed, and salamander a good colour, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets alternately, (one larded and one plain,) in crown, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in the sauté-pan, with half a pint of consommé, boil and skim, add half a glass of sherry, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37) and twenty small quenelles from forcemeat made with the legs of the rabbits, as described (No. 121); when hot, sauce over the plain fillets, glaze the larded ones, put all the quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 858. _Epigramme de Filets de Lapereau._

Proceed precisely as in the last, only dressing the six plain fillets on one side and the larded ones on the other instead of alternately, and add twelve dressed cockscombs and twelve blanched mushrooms to the garniture in the sauce; or they may be served with a blanquette made from the legs of the rabbits, previously braised, proceeding as described for blanquette de dinde (No. 791).

No. 859. _Filets de Lapereau à la Musulmane._

Lard twelve pieces of fillets from three or four rabbits, braise them as you would sweetbreads; when done glaze and salamander of a light colour, and dress in crown as high as possible; you have boiled half a pound of good rice (No. 129), season it with a little salt, and mix four pats of butter and a pinch of saffron with it, dress it in pyramid in the centre of your dish, serve with a thin currie sauce (No. 46) round the fillets, and some separate in a boat; serve very hot.

No. 860. _Cotelettes de Lapereau aux petites racines._

Fillet three rabbits, cut each fillet in halves and shape them in the form of cotelettes, sticking a piece of the rib-bone of the rabbit in at the thin end, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil of a light brown colour, dress in crown, glaze them lightly, and sauce as directed for grenadins de veau (No. 692).

The legs and shoulders may be used for pies, curries, or fricassées, which I give in my Kitchen at Home.

No. 861. _Lapereau sauté aux truffes._

Procure two nice young rabbits, which cut into twelve pieces, being two legs, two shoulders, and two nice pieces from the back of each; put four ounces of butter in a thick-bottomed sauté-pan; when melted lay in the pieces and proceed as directed for petits poulets sauté aux truffes (No. 820). Lapereau sauté aux champignons is done the same, using mushrooms instead of truffles, and lapereau sauté aux fines herbes, by using a sauce fines herbes (No. 26) instead of the brown sauce, and omitting both the truffles and mushrooms.

No. 862. _Lapereau à la Marengo._

Cut up two rabbits precisely as above, and proceed as directed for poulet printanier à la Marengo (No. 829), dress them as high as possible on the dish, pyramidically, sauce over and serve.

No. 863. _Rabbit Currie._

Cut up two rabbits as before, and cook them as for sauté aux truffes (No. 861); when done and nicely browned pour off as much butter as possible and pour a quart of currie sauce (No. 46) over, add twenty button onions, previously stewed in a little broth, and twenty pieces of cooked streaky bacon cut in small diamonds, stand them over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping it stirred occasionally; then build the pieces up in your dish, sauce over and serve with rice (No. 129) in a separate dish; should the sauce be too thick moisten it with a drop of broth, but it requires to be thick enough to adhere to the rabbit.

No. 864. _Fricassée de Lapereau._

Cut up two young rabbits as before, and put them two hours in warm water to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan just covered with clear water, add two onions, one carrot, a bunch of parsley, two cloves, and a little salt, boil half an hour at the corner of the stove, and skim well, take out the pieces and pass the stock through a cloth, trim each piece of rabbit nicely, and put it in another stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, then mix one ounce of flour with them, pour the stock over and add fifty peeled button onions, stir round gently until boiling, then draw it to the corner of the fire and let simmer till the rabbit is very tender, then take them out, with the onions, and put them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the rabbit and onions, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir it in gently, place it over the fire but do not let it boil, dress the rabbit in your dish and sauce over; mushrooms may be added, and the onions ought to be kept as whole as possible.

No. 865. _Faisans au velouté de Gibier._

Roast two small young pheasants in vegetables as directed for the Removes, let them get cold, then cut off neatly the two wings, two legs, and two pieces from the breasts of each, which will make twelve very nice pieces, take off the skin and place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock and six spoonfuls of velouté (No. 6), put them in the bain marie to warm gently, then put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white stock and the backs and trimmings of the pheasants cut up very small, reduce till it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, pour off the stock from the pieces of pheasants, place a tammie over the stewpan, over which hold a colander, pour the sauce through the colander, and then squeeze it through the tammie, add a little sugar and a little cream, place the stewpan over the fire but do not let its contents boil, dress the pieces of pheasants in pyramid, placing a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish to keep them in their place; sauce over and serve.

No. 866. _Faisans à la purée de Gibier._

Cut up two small pheasants as above, dress them in pyramid on your dish and serve with a sauce à la purée de gibier (No. 59) over, have about fifty very small croutons of bread, diamond shape, and fried in oil, which sprinkle over the last thing before serving.

No. 867. _Filets de Faisans à la Comte de Brabant._

Fillet two full-grown young pheasants as you would a fowl, lard and braise them exactly the same, have half boiled in water sixty very fine Brussels sprouts, drain them in a colander and put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, season with a little pepper and salt, add a pint of good stock and stew them over a moderate fire till the stock is reduced to glaze, take out the sprouts, squeeze them together between two dishes, and dress them as a perfect pyramid in the centre of your dish, glaze and salamander the fillets nicely, and dress a fillet on each side with a thin slice of the bacon at each corner, place a quenelle at the top, and sauce round with the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60); serve immediately.

No. 868. _Filets de Faisans piqué aux légumes._

Lard and braise six fillets from three pheasants as above, have a fine fresh cucumber, cut six pieces from it of the same size as the fillets, which stew in a little stock in which you have put half a teaspoonful of sugar; when tender but not too much done drain them on a cloth; make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and pieces of cucumber alternately in crown; have ready a small jardinière sauce (No. 100) to which you have added a few blanched mushrooms, put the vegetables in the centre with a piece of boiled (or a small) cauliflower on the top, sauce round, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 869. _Turban de Faisans en salmi._

Roast two pheasants in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut them into quarters, that is, the four breasts with the wings and the legs with a piece of the back-bone, beat and trim them lightly, cut off the pinion from the wings, and make the breasts and legs nearly of the same shape, place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock, put the lid on the stewpan and set in the bain marie to get hot, make a border of forcemeat (see ris de veau à la Turque No. 673); when done place it in the centre of your dish and dress the pieces in crown upon it, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60) in which you have put four large truffles in slices, or twenty button mushrooms; serve very hot.

No. 870. _Filets de Faisans à la Marquise._

Fillet four young pheasants, lard and braise four of the fillets, (as for the filets aux légumes), egg the other four over with a paste-brush and throw them into a plate in which you have chopped ham and bread-crumbs mixed, cover them well, beat gently with a knife, and fry a light brown in a little clarified butter, make a small border of mashed potatoes upon your dish and dress the fillets alternately upon it; you have previously prepared a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), rather more than a pint, add twenty very white dressed cockscombs, when hot sauce round and garniture in the centre; glaze your fillets and serve; a spoonful of whipped cream would also be a great improvement added to the sauce when finished.

No. 871. _Filets de Faisans à la Maintenon._

Prepare eight small or four large fillets divided into two separate slices, put them in a sauté-pan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, place them over a sharp fire, sauté them very underdone, and lay them on a cloth, put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry them till turning yellow, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, two of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, keeping it stirred, lay in the fillets to warm, and leave them to get cold in the sauce, have eight pieces of paper each cut in the shape of a heart, and large enough to fold a fillet in, place a fillet in each with the sauce equally divided amongst them, fold the papers over, twisting them up at the edges, and place them on the gridiron to broil over a slow fire; when done dress in crown on your dish leaving them in the papers, and serve with a little plain gravy.

After having used the fillets of pheasants one day the legs may be used the next, by roasting in vegetables and trimming them nicely; serve either à la Brabant (No. 867), or en salmi (No. 869); but the legs of large pheasants being so stringy will not make a very delicate entrée, and it is much better to convert them into a sauce à la purée de gibier (No. 59), soup, (No. 175), or forcemeat (No. 123).

No. 872. _Turban de Quenelles de Faisans._

Proceed exactly as for the quenelles de volaille, only using a forcemeat made from the flesh of pheasants instead of fowl, dress them in crown, and serve with a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), purée de gibier (No. 59), or sauce fumée de gibier, either of which may be garnished with cockscombs, truffles, or mushrooms, as directed for the entrées of pheasants.

Boudins de faisans are served the same way only shaping them as directed for boudins de volaille à la Richelieu (No. 838), with which sauce they may also be served.

No. 873. _Grouse à la Commodore._

Prepare two young but full-grown grouse, roast one of them underdone, and make forcemeat (No. 123) of the other; when the roasted one is cold cut it into eight pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, two pieces of the back, and two pieces of the breast; cover each piece all over with the forcemeat the sixth of an inch in thickness, egg each piece over and place them in a buttered sauté-pan, just cover them with a little white stock and boil gently ten minutes, lay them on a cloth to drain, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, build the pieces in pyramid, and have ready the following sauce: chop the bone of the grouse very small and put them into a stewpan, with three pints of consommé free from salt, an onion, and a little celery, with a bunch of parsley and two cloves, boil gently half an hour, pass the stock through a cloth into a stewpan, reduce to a very thin glaze, then mix a tablespoonful of the best arrow-root with half a glassful of wine and a little cold broth; pour it into the gravy, keeping it stirred, season a little more if required, and when boiling sauce over and serve.

No. 874. _Filets de Grouse à la Paoli._

Roast four young grouse in vegetables as described for the Removes, take out the breasts or fillets carefully, have ready a pound of forcemeat (No. 123), with which cover each fillet nearly a quarter of an inch in thickness all over, put them in a buttered sauté-pan, just covered with a little white stock, boil gently ten minutes and lay them on a cloth; have ready eight croutons or pieces of bread, the shape of the fillets and the thickness of a crown-piece, fried in oil a light brown and very crisp, dress the fillets and croutons alternately in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, glaze the croutons, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), sprinkle a few chopped olives over, and serve very hot.

No. 875. _Filets de Grouse à la Chancelière._

Fillet four young grouse, trim the fillets as directed for filet de poularde (No. 792), butter a sauté-pan with two ounces of butter, lay in your fillets, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, add a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place them on the fire, sauté underdone, pour off as much butter as possible, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) and twenty small quenelles (No. 120); shake the sauté-pan round over the fire two minutes, take out the fillets, which dress in crown on a border of mashed potatoes; sauce over, put the fillets and quenelles in the centre and serve.

No. 876. _Salmi de Grouse aux truffes._

Plain roast two grouse and cut each one up into eight neat pieces (whilst hot, as for à la commodore), place them in a stewpan, cover them with a thin brown sauce (No. 1), put the cover on the stewpan and place it in the bain marie till the pieces are hot, in another stewpan have a pint and a half of the sauce fumée de gibier, reduce it a third, then add six middling-sized truffles cut in thin slices, and a little sugar; have also six croutons or scippets of fried bread (as for à la Paoli), dress the pieces of grouse in pyramid on your dish, with the croutons well glazed resting upon them round the dish; sauce over and serve.

No. 877. _Grouse à la Ailsa._

Roast two grouse, cut them into quarters, that is, the wings with the breasts, and the legs with the back-bone, pound the back and trimmings well in a mortar and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), boil five minutes, then pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan, season with a little salt and sugar if required, and add the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire till it becomes thickish but do not let it boil, then put in the pieces of grouse; when half cold dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce and sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a moderate oven half an hour; serve with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) round.

No. 878. _Turban de Quenelles de Grouse à la Moderne._

Make and poach twelve quenelles from a forcemeat of grouse (see No. 123), poach them as for quenelles de volaille (No. 831), dress in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), have ready the yolk of a hard-boiled egg chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve.

Black cocks and gray hens being larger birds are generally used for roasting, but the gray hen if well kept may be dressed in any of the preceding ways; the ptarmigan also which makes its appearance in February, (a Swedish bird as well as Scotch,) may be used for the same purposes as grouse, the flavour is similar but not quite so good.

No. 879. _Perdreaux à la Silène._

Procure three young partridges, pluck and draw them and cut each bird in halves, cut off each leg below the knuckle, break the part of the leg above the knuckle, make an incision in the thigh and turn the leg inside, break the back-bone (in three) the thigh-bone and the joint of the wing in each, place the six halves in a sauté-pan, in which you have put eight tablespoonfuls of oil, fry gently till three parts done, then egg, bread-crumb, and place them on a gridiron over a slow fire, broil them a good colour, and dress in crown upon your dish, then pour off the oil from the sauté-pan, add two glasses of port wine, a spoonful of chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, pass them over the fire two minutes, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1,) ten spoonfuls of consommé, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, finish with the juice of half a lemon, sauce round and serve, slightly glazing the partridges.

No. 880. _Perdreaux grillés à la purée de Gibier._

Prepare and broil three partridges as in the last; you have previously roasted an old one and made a purée of it as directed (No. 59), dress the partridges in crown, glaze and serve with the purée round and in the centre.

No. 881. _Perdreaux aux choux._

Procure two partridges trussed as for boiling, and lard them with fat bacon lengthwise up the breast; have ready two white-heart savoy cabbages, cut them in quarters and blanch them ten minutes in boiling water; drain them quite dry on a cloth, season well with white pepper and salt, cut off all the stalk and place them in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon; cover with a good white stock and place them over a slow fire to stew until the stock has reduced to a thin glaze and the cabbage is quite tender; you have roasted the two partridges, thrust them quite hot into the cabbage, and place the stewpan containing them in a bain marie to keep hot for one hour, or till ready for use, then drain and press the cabbage in a colander, saving the stock that comes from it; dress in a dome on your dish, take the skewers and strings from the birds and dress them upon the top with slices of the bacon round, broil three sausages, which cut in halves lengthwise and lay round at the bottom, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with twelve spoonfuls of stock from the cabbage, skim off all the fat, reduce to a demi-glace, sauce over and serve.

No. 882. _Chartreuses de Perdreaux._

Proceed as directed in the Flancs (Nos. 604, 605, and 606), but using a round mould not too large for the dish instead of oval moulds as there directed.

No. 883. _Filets de Perdreaux aux petits légumes._

Roast six young partridges underdone and when nearly cold cut out the breasts or fillets as neatly as possible, place them in a sauté-pan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut and a little white stock, warm them and reduce the stock to glaze, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared some carrots, turnips, and button onions as for sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), pass them over the fire in a little butter and sugar, cover them with a pint of the sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), six spoonfuls of consommé, and the glaze from the sauté-pan; simmer at the corner of the stove till the vegetables are quite done, skim it well, dress the vegetables in the centre, glaze the fillets and serve.

No. 884. _Filets de Perdreaux à la Florentine._

Roast six partridges and fillet them as in the last, warm and dress them precisely the same, then have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, then add twelve blanched mushrooms, twelve dressed cockscombs, and twelve very small French preserved truffles; add a little sugar, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and serve.

No. 885. _Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Bacchante._

Procure six young partridges, fillet them, take a rib-bone and stick in the small end of each fillet, beat them lightly with a thin knife, take off the skin, season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb, and fry of a light brown colour in salad oil, but not too much done, dress them in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, have ready a pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), which you have made from the legs and bones of the birds, which put in a stewpan, with a pint of white stock (No. 138), reduce, and when it adheres to the back of the spoon add fifty Smyrna raisins previously soaked in hot water two hours, and the juice of ten large Portugal grapes, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve. I have served this curious entrée with English grapes whole in it, and very good it is, being refreshing to the palate, but a person requires to be used to them before they can appreciate.

No. 886. _Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Douarière._

Prepare twelve cotelettes as above, fry them in oil and dress them the same on your dish; have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it one third, have forty small quenelles made from forcemeat from the legs, (see No. 123), the quenelles must be made with very small egg-spoons, as directed for the quenelles (No. 120); when poached lay them on a cloth to drain, put them into the sauce; when hot dress the quenelles in the centre; sauce over and serve.

No. 887. _Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Duc de Chartres._

Prepare and dress twelve cotelettes or fillets as before, dress them on a dish and have ready the following sauce: have fifty scoops of turnips the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes, keeping them moved, then add a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), place it on the corner of the stove, let simmer, keeping it skimmed till the turnips are done, finish with a little orange-juice, sauce in the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.

No. 888. _Epigramme de Perdreaux à l’essence de Gibier._

Fillet six young partridges, lard six of the fillets, and braise them as for filets de faisans à la Brabant (No. 867), place the other six in a sauté-pan well buttered, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, sauté them gently over a moderate fire, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the six larded fillets first, then the six plain ones to form a crown; glaze nicely, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier and serve (see Sauce, No. 61).

No. 889. _Epigramme de Perdreaux aux champignons._

Proceed exactly as in the last, merely adding thirty heads of blanched mushrooms to the sauce and a little sugar.

No. 890. _Turban des Filets de Perdreaux à la Périgord._

Fillet three young partridges, make likewise half a pound of forcemeat from the legs as directed (No. 123), from which make six quenelles with two tablespoons (No. 831); sauté your fillets as in the last, plain, then poach your quenelles, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress the fillets in crown, alternately with the quenelles, put three parts of a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it a third, add four large French truffles chopped very fine, with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.

No. 891. _Turban de Quenelles de Perdreaux à la Berri._

Make a pound of forcemeat from the flesh of one or two partridges as directed (No. 123), and with two tablespoons make twelve large quenelles, poach them in white stock (see quenelles de volaille, No. 831) and lay them on a clean cloth to drain a moment, make a border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the quenelles in crown, then put a pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58) in a stewpan, with half the quantity of white stock, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sauce over, sprinkle a few pistachios chopped very fine upon the top of each quenelle and serve.

No. 892. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage à l’essence._

Wild ducks are best after frosty weather, the middling-sized ones are the best for entrées.

Roast four young ones underdone well wrapped up in vegetables, when done cut the fillets out neatly, and dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, have prepared the following sauce: put a spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a glass of port wine, the back-bones of two of the ducks and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and ten spoonfuls of consommé, simmer a few minutes, take out the bones, skim, reduce it fast till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a little cayenne pepper and lemon-juice, when hot sauce over and serve.

No. 893. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage à la Syrienne._

Prepare six fillets from three wild ducks as in the last, have six croutons of fried bread (or scippets), chop the livers of the ducks up very fine, mix with a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a small pat of butter, spread some upon each of the croutons, thicker in the middle than at the sides; set them ten minutes in a warm oven and salamander, dress them alternately with the fillets upon a border of mashed potatoes in crown, sauce the same as in the last, with the addition of twenty mild stoned olives just before serving.

No. 894. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage au jus d’orange._

Cook and fillet four wild ducks as in the last, dress upon your dish and put them into the hot closet to keep hot with a cover over them; chop up the legs and back very fine and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry and a bunch of parsley, boil five minutes, then add a pint of consommée, boil ten minutes, skim and pass through a cloth into another stewpan, reduce to half glaze, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), a little sugar, and half the yellow rind of a large orange, cut in fine strips and blanch five minutes, boil altogether a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of juice from the orange, sauce over and serve.

No. 895. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage au fumée de Gibier._