Chapter XX: Part 20

Line about eighteen or twenty tartelette-pans with puff paste, then put an ounce of powdered candied orange-flowers in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of crushed maccaroons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, two yolks and two whole eggs, with a grain of salt, stir altogether, then add two ounces of fresh butter warmed and the whites of two eggs beat up very stiff, fill the tartelettes, sift sugar rather thickly over and bake them in a moderate oven.

No. 1169. _Mirlitons aux Amandes._

Proceed exactly as in the last, using one ounce of bitter and one ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, dried, and pounded, and two ounces of maccaroons instead of a quarter of a pound, omitting the candied orange-flowers.

No. 1170. _Mirlitons au Citron._

Proceed as for mirlitons aux fleurs d’orange, only rubbing the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding it, and omitting the orange-flowers.

No. 1171. _Petits Vol-au-vents à la Chantilly._

Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done roll it to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and with a fluted cutter cut out twenty pieces rather larger than a penny-piece and with a plain round cutter the size of a halfpenny, cut a piece from the centre of each, leaving the rings, roll up the trimmings of the paste to the same thickness as before, from which cut twenty more pieces with the fluted cutter, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them, wet lightly upon the top, and place the rings over very even, pressing them down gently, egg the tops and bake in a good oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, whip half a pint of double cream, to which add a little sugar pounded, with a few candied orange-flowers; when the vol-au-vents are cold put a little marmalade in the bottom with the cream over and serve.

No. 1172. _Petits Vol-au-vents aux Abricots._

Make the vol-au-vents as in the last, but when baked have a quarter of a pound of sugar boiled au cassé (No. 1379), dip the top of each of the vol-au-vents lightly into it, and immediately dip them in white sugar, in grains (that is, the sugar pounded and all the fine sifted from it, which again sift through a coarse wire sieve), when all done fill the centre with some good apricot marmalade, or small pieces of apricots, peaches, &c., as prepared for the large vol-au-vents.

No. 1173. _Petits Vol-au-vents à la Gelée mousseuse._

Make the vol-au-vents as described in the last, but dipping them into red sugar in grains, (see No. 1375,) instead of white; when done put a pint of very good marasquino jelly into a bowl, melt it, place it upon the ice and keep whisking till set, it will be quite white and frothy, fill the vol-au-vents, and serve with a few drops of marasquino sprinkled over and a very fresh strawberry upon the top of each, or, if not in season, a brandied cherry.

No. 1174. _Petits Puits aux Pistachios_

Are made the same as the vol-au-vents; when baked dip the tops lightly into sugar as before, and dip them into chopped pistachios (very green) and sugar in grains, fill them with some whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377) and place a dried cherry upon the top.

No. 1175. _Gateau fourré à la Crème._

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done divide it into two parts, one a fourth larger than the other, roll them up into two balls gently, and roll the first into a sheet the thickness of a penny-piece, sprinkle a baking-sheet with a little water, upon which lay it, put some frangipane (No. 1295) in the centre, which spread to within half an inch of the edge all round, and three quarters of an inch in thickness, wet the edge lightly, then lay the other sheet of paste (which you have rolled into a sheet, thicker and larger than the first) over, close it well at the edges, egg it well over, trim round with your knife, sketch some design upon the top with the point of a knife, bake about three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven; when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander; when cold cut it into pieces two inches and a half in length and one in breadth; dress in crown upon a napkin or upon a border of apple marmalade.

No. 1176. _Gateau fourré au Confiture._

Make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as in the last, spreading apricot, strawberry, or greengage jam about a quarter of an inch in thickness in the centre instead of the frangipane, finish as the last, but it will not take so long to bake, serve the same.

No. 1177. _Gateau fourré, ou d’Artois, aux Pommes._

Peel and cut ten apples into slices, put them into a preserving-pan with two ounces of butter, six ounces of powdered sugar, some thin lemon-peel cut in strips, and a little powdered cinnamon, pass them over a sharp fire till tender, then take them off, mix four tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them, and put by till cold; make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as before, using the above preparation instead of the sweatmeats before mentioned.

No. 1178. _Gateau fourré Anglo-Français._

Put three ounces of ground rice in a stewpan with which mix gradually a pint of milk, stir over the fire till it thickens and the rice is done; you have pounded a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter with six ounces of sugar, put them in the stewpan with half an ounce of candied citron cut small and soaked in a glass of marasquino, which also put in, add five eggs, beat altogether, and stir over the fire till it again thickens, when cold proceed exactly as for the gateau fourré à la crème, substituting the above preparation for the frangipane.

No. 1179. _Petits Gateaux fourrés au Confiture._

Prepare half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll into a long band three inches wide and nearly a quarter of an inch thick, have it upon your slab before you, then place rolls of jam an inch and a half in length, as thick as your little finger and two inches apart, in the centre; wet the edges all along and fold the paste over, press down with your finger round each piece of marmalade, cut them out with a knife, sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them; egg over, and with the point of a knife sketch a leaf upon each, cutting nearly through the paste, bake them nicely in a moderate oven, and when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them round upon a border of apple marmalade when cold, or dress in pyramid. Any kind of sweetmeat may be used for these kinds of gateaux, but observe it requires to be very firm, for if soft it would run from the paste, and give them a bad appearance.

No. 1180. _Petits Gateaux fourrés (round)._

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste, from which cut twelve pieces with a round cutter three inches and a half in diameter and the thickness of a penny-piece, then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twelve more pieces with a plain round cutter three inches in diameter, lay a small piece of the preparation of apple as for d’Artois (No. 1177) in the middle of the smaller sheets with a preserved cherry upon the top, wet round the edges lightly, then place the larger sheet over, press it well down upon the edges with the rim of the smaller cutter, with which also cut them round; wet lightly over and place a small ring upon the top, sprinkle white sugar in rather coarse grains over, and bake rather white in a moderate oven, when cold place a fine preserved cherry within each ring upon the top, and dress them in pyramid; they may likewise be made square or any other shape, by following the above directions, they may be made smaller if required.

No. 1181. _Petits Gateaux fourrés aux Amandes._

Make the cakes exactly as above, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split each one in halves (wet the top of the cakes), and with them form a rosette, pressing them into the paste; place a ring of paste upon the top as before, sprinkle white sugar in grains over, bake them nearly white, when done fill the ring with red currant jelly, and when cold serve as before.

No. 1182. _Petits Gateaux fourrés Meringué._

Make the cakes as before, but omitting the almonds, when baked and cold prepare a meringue mixture of three whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which put into a paper cornet, and with it pipe a rosette tastefully upon each gateau; throw pounded sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them, place them in the screen to dry, when dry fill each cavity with currant, apple, or quince jelly, which will have a very pleasing effect. You may also form a rope round with meringues, which sprinkle with green and red sugar in grains (see No. 1375), filling the interior with jellies as before, they may be made oval also.

No. 1183. _Patisserie d’Amandes à la Condé._

Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or little more if required, spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown colour in a moderate oven, dress them in pyramid.

No. 1184. _Turban de Condé à la Rhubarbe._

Dress some of the pastry as directed in the last, in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, have ready a bundle of red forced rhubarb (very young), which put into a preserving-pan with one pound of powdered sugar and a wine-glassful of water, stew quickly over a sharp fire keeping it very red, the syrup must be very thick; when quite cold fill the centre of the turban and serve. Apricots, apples, pears, peaches, greengages, or any other fruits, dressed as for vol-au-vents, can be served in this manner.

No. 1185. _Petits Gateaux d’Abricots._

Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it to the thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into pieces three inches square, in the centre of which put a roll of apricot marmalade about two inches long and the thickness of your finger; wet the paste round lightly, and fold it over in the form of a book, egg over and bake them in a warm oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, or they may be made in the shape of diamonds by cutting the paste into pieces of that form, and covering one over the other.

No. 1186. _Petits Gateaux renversés._

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll it to the thickness of a halfpenny-piece, and with a round cutter cut out twenty-four pieces rather larger than a five-shilling piece, wet lightly and fold them over forming half circles, wet the top, dip into some coarse sugar in grains and bake on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven of a light colour, cut fillets of currant jelly, with which garnish by piping them in the separation with a paper cornet, and serve dressed in pyramid.

No. 1187. _Petites Bouchées à la Patissière._

Make half a pound of puff paste, from which cut fifteen pieces the thickness of a penny-piece, with an oval fluted cutter two inches and a half in length and one and a half in breadth, wet them upon the top; then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twenty an inch in diameter, taking out the centre with a smaller cutter, thus forming them into rings, place them upon the top exactly in the centre, wet the rings lightly, dip the tops into some white sugar in grains, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake them a light colour; when done fill the ring with a little currant or apple jelly, a dried cherry, or any description of preserve.

No. 1188. _Eventail aux Cerises._

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of half an inch, cut it in strips a quarter of an inch wide and three inches long, lay them upon their sides upon the baking-sheet, leaving them room to spread, bake in a moderate oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them in a crown upon a border of apple marmalade, with cherries in the centre dressed as for vol-au-vent (No. 1144).

No. 1189. _Petits Gateaux à la Royale._

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness of a penny-piece, beat three quarters of a pound of finely sifted sugar in a basin with the whites of two eggs and a little lemon-juice; if too stiff add a little more white of egg, beat well, spread over the sheet of paste, and cut it into pieces three inches long and one broad, lay them upon your baking-sheet and bake in a slow oven.

There are likewise a great many small cakes which may be made from puff paste in all variety of forms, with different shaped cutters, and ornamented with different preserves, or meringued in any pattern or design you may fancy, but these must be left entirely to the taste.

No. 1190. _A Flan of Puff Paste._

Make half a pound of puff paste, roll twelve times till nearly worn out, letting it remain some time on the slab before using; then have a plain round or oval flan mould,[14] butter the interior and line it with the paste about one third of an inch in thickness, place a sheet of white paper at the bottom and a band round the sides in the interior, which fill with bread-crumbs, bake in a warm oven rather crisp, take out, empty it of the bread-crumbs, and paper and turn it from your mould, sift sugar all over and glaze with the salamander, serve filled with any of the fruits dressed as directed for vol-au-vents. Should you have any trimmings of paste left from a previous day it may be used instead of making fresh.

No. 1191. _Flan de Pommes à la Portugaise._

Make half a pound of flour into a fine paste (pâte fine, No. 1136), roll it into a sheet about eleven inches in diameter, work up the sides with your hands two inches in height, which crimp and ornament neatly with pâte d’office (No. 1137), or some of the same paste cut into small leaves, with which form a wreath or some other design, by wetting the flan round and sticking them upon it; then peel two dozen small apples (golden pippins), take the cores from fifteen of them with a long round cutter, make a syrup with half a pint of water, the juice of a lemon, and three quarters of a pound of sugar, reduce over a sharp fire till becoming thickish, put in the whole apples which stew gently till tender, then take them out, cut up the remainder, put them into the syrup and boil to a thickish marmalade; lay half the marmalade at the bottom of the flan, then the whole apples, and fill up with the marmalade not hiding the whole apples, put a band of buttered paper round and bake three quarters of an hour, when done take off the buttered paper and mask all over with apricot marmalade, serve either hot or cold.

No. 1192. _Flan de Poires._

Make a crust the same as above, peel and cut in halves about two dozen very nice pears, put them into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of one, free from pith, cut into small strips; stew till tender, when cold place them in your flan with the syrup over, bake three quarters of an hour with a band of paper round, finish and serve as in the last.

Cherries, greengages, and apricots may also be used for the above purposes by following the same methods, dressing the fruit as for vol-au-vents.

No. 1193. _Flanc à la Crème pralinée._

Prepare a crust as before, which fill with some frangipane (No. 1295), in which you have put six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and chopped, put a band of paper round, bake three quarters of an hour, then take off the paper, wet the crust, sift sugar all over, and glaze with the salamander.

No. 1194. _Pâté à Choux._

Put half a pint of water in a stewpan, with six ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar (pounded), with half a stick of vanille and a pinch of salt; when it begins to boil stir in three good spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire, keeping it cleared from the bottom of the stewpan, till becoming a toughish paste; take it off the fire, and stir in six or seven eggs one after the other, and work them well in; it is then ready; butter a baking-sheet and lay your paste upon it in round pieces nearly the size of a walnut,[15] egg over, and sprinkle white sugar in grains upon them, bake in a moderate oven, and when done and cold open a lid at the top, fill them with a jam or marmalade of some description, replace the lid, and serve dressed in pyramid upon a napkin. Half the quantity of this and following receipts may of course be made.

No. 1195. _Petits Choux à la Crème._

Prepare your paste as in the last, place it in round balls upon your baking-sheet, egg over, sprinkle with sugar in grains, and bake them as in the last, then put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemon-peel, and a few candied orange-flowers well pounded; mix well together, add a gill of boiling milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, place in a basin upon the ice, when cold, add a gill of whipped cream, mix well, fill your petits choux, and serve as in the last.

No. 1196. _Petits Choux aux Amandes._

Proceed as above, but when they are baked cover lightly with a mixture of almonds and sugar, as directed for patisserie d’amandes (No. 1183); put them again in the oven till it has set and become crisp; when cold fill and serve as before.

No. 1197. _Petits Choux à la Comtesse._

Prepare the paste as before, but lay it out upon your baking-sheet, in long pieces the size of your finger, egg and sugar over, bake as before, and when cold open them beneath and fill with the cream as above.

No. 1198. _Petits Choux en Gimblettes._

Make the paste as before, lay it in larger round balls upon a buttered baking-sheet, dip the handle of your paste-brush into some egg, with which make a hole as large as a shilling in the centre of each, thus forming them into rings, each rather larger than a five-shilling piece; egg over, and sprinkle with sugar in grains and chopped pistachios mixed together; bake them as before, but in a slow oven; they do not require to be filled.

No. 1199. _Petits Pains à la Crèmière._

Put half a pint of thin cream in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, two ounces of sugar, and a little salt; when boiling add three spoonfuls of flour; stir well over the fire, clearing it from the bottom till becoming toughish, then add six eggs, one at a time, which work in well; the paste requires to be rather firm; when cold put a little flour upon your pastry slab, upon which turn the paste; roll it out in pieces an inch and a half in length, make an incision down the centre with your knife, and lay them upon a baking-sheet, egg over, bake them in a warm oven; when done sift sugar over, and glaze with the salamander; serve dressed in pyramid, and very hot.

No. 1200. _Madeline au vin de Ports._

Put half a pound of flour in a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and a little orange-flour water; mix the whole well together with five eggs, butter a cylinder mould, put the paste into it, and bake of a nice gold colour in a moderate oven; put four glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a little sugar, four cloves, and a little cinnamon; mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot with a glass of port wine cold, which stir in with the other in your stewpan, turn the madeline out upon your dish, pour the wine over, straining it through a sieve; when cold fill the centre with half a pint of whipped cream, flavoured with orange-flower-water, and serve.

They may also be made in smaller moulds, dressed in pyramid, with the sauce over.

No. 1201. _Genoises._

Well pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and pass them through a wire sieve; put them into a basin, with six ounces of flour and six eggs; beat well together, add a little salt, half a gill of whipped cream, and a piece of butter the size of an egg (melted but not hot); butter a sauté-pan, pour the mixture into it, bake in a moderate oven half an hour, or till rather crisp, turn it out upon your board, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes with your knife or different shaped cutters (but do not make them too large, or they would not look well), which decorate with a white or pink iceing (No. 1388) or meringue with a paper cornet, and different sorts of preserves.

No. 1202. _Genoises fourées._

Prepare a mixture as above, but only put half of it in the sauté-pan; when half done spread a little apricot marmalade over, and pour over the remainder of the mixture; when done turn out upon a board, cut and ornament it as directed above. This style of genoise is new, and when well made very excellent.

No, 1203. _Genoises à l’Orange._

Proceed as before, but rub the sugar with the rind of an orange previous to pounding it, and add a small glass of brandy; bake, cut, and ornament it as before.

No. 1204. _Genoises aux Pistaches._

Make a genoise as before, bake it, and when cold cut it into round pieces the size of a penny-piece; cut also as many rings the size of a shilling, mask the tops of the round pieces with white iceings (No. 1381) and place a ring in the centre of each, which also mask; have two ounces of pistachios blanched and split in halves, which lay upon them, their points to the rings, thus forming rosettes; fill the rings with marmalade when ready to serve.

No. 1205. _Darioles._

Line (very thinly) a dozen small dariole moulds with paste (pâte à foncer, No. 1136), then put one ounce of flour in a basin with an egg, beat it quite smooth, then add six yolks of eggs and four ounces of sugar (pounded) with a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, six large macaroons crushed, one whole egg, and half a pint of good cream; mix all well together, put a small piece of butter in each of the moulds, fill them with the above preparation, and bake in a quick oven, when done take them out of the mould, sift sugar over, and serve very hot; they will be as light as souffles and eat as delicate.

No. 1206. _Biscatelles._

Put one pound of sugar into a basin with five eggs, work it well, and add by degrees four more eggs, then stir in the yolks of five other eggs with a pound of flour, add three quarters of a pound of butter just melted, and the whites of five eggs, beat very stiff, bake it in a sauté-pan, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes, which ornament with meringue, iceing and preserves as your fancy may direct; half the above quantity would be sufficient for a dish.

No. 1207. _Gateaux à l’Indienne._

Make a sponge-cake mixture (No. 1369) of six eggs, which bake in twelve small dariole moulds, when cold cut them in slices, spread a little currant jelly upon each, with a little maresquino, and build them of their original shape; have ready a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which mask them, finish the top in a point, sprinkle over with rough sugar and dry in a very slow oven, keeping them quite white; when cold, dress in pyramid as elevated as possible.

No. 1208. _Gauffres aux Pistaches._

Weigh the weight of six eggs of sugar and three of flour, which put into a basin with half a pound of sweet almonds chopped very fine, mix them with six whole eggs and a teaspoonful of orange-flower-water; rub two or three baking-sheets very lightly with very white wax, upon which drop the mixture with a spoon into cakes the size of a penny piece; let it spread, then lay some pistachios blanched and filleted upon them, place in a warmish oven, and be very particular in baking, for if done too much you will not be able to do anything with them, and if not done enough they will not be crisp eating; directly they are done take them from the oven, and with a thin knife take them off the baking-sheet, curl them over the handle of a wooden spoon as quickly as possible, and place in a screen for a short time to dry; in case your gauffres run out of shape cut them out with an oval cutter or with the point of a knife before putting them upon the spoon.

No. 1209. _Gauffres à l’Allemande_

Are made the same as the above, but omitting the almonds and pistachios, serve them filled with whipped cream, to which you have added a little powdered sugar and orange-flower-water, if in season a fine strawberry may be placed at each end, dress them in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1210. _Gauffres à la Vanille_

Are made the same as the gauffres aux pistaches, but adding half a stick of vanilla well pounded and sifted with the sugar, and half a glass of brandy instead of the orange-flower-water. A variety of beautiful entremets may be made with gauffres, according to taste.

No. 1211. _Gauffres à la Flamande._

Put half a pound of flour in a basin, with which mix six eggs by degrees, working it at first upon one side of the basin, until you have mixed the whole into a smooth paste, then dissolve a piece of dried German yeast, half the size of a walnut, in a wineglassful of warm water; when dissolved pour it into the basin with a gill of warm milk and a little salt, mix all well together, stir in six ounces of butter, previously melted, also two spoonfuls of orange-flower-water, set in a warm place for nearly two hours, when the mixture would have risen about two or three inches turn it round five or six times with a wooden spoon to bring it down; let remain half an hour longer and it is ready for use.

Put the gauffre irons upon a slow fire, turning them occasionally, to get hot by degrees, wipe them well with a cloth, and rub lightly over the interior with fat bacon, then put in two or three spoonfuls of the paste, close the irons, put them over the fire (turning occasionally) for a few minutes; open the irons half way to see if coloured sufficiently (they should be of a light gold colour) and very crisp, if done turn it out, proceeding in like manner with the remainder; when finished have half a pound of lump sugar, well pounded, with a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon and passed through a fine sieve, dip the gauffres into it on both sides and serve very hot dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.

No. 1212. _Gauffres à la Casalesry._

Put half a pound of fresh butter into a middling-sized basin (having previously pressed it in a cloth to extract the buttermilk), work it round with your hand until forming a whitish cream, then add half a pound of sifted flour and a piece of yeast of the size of a walnut; work well together, set it in a warm closet half an hour, or until well risen, take it out, add half a pint of whipped cream (taking care that the mixture is not too hot, or it would turn sour) and a little salt, put the gauffre irons upon the fire, and proceed as in the last; when done roll them in powdered cinnamon and sugar mixed together, and send very hot to table; either of the two last may be served either as an entremet or a remove.

No. 1213. _Red Nougat._

Blanch and skin three quarters of a pound of almonds, which cut into small fillets, and place them in the oven until lightly browned; put six ounces of powdered sugar in a copper pan with a little essence of cochineal, stir round over the fire till melted, and when it commences boiling stir in the almonds and turn it out upon a buttered baking-sheet, spread out thin, and before getting too crisp cut it into pieces (with a knife) two inches in length and three quarters of an inch in breadth; dress them in crown upon your dish and fill the interior with a pint of whipped cream, in which you have put a tablespoonful of sugar and one of orange-flower-water; strawberries may be added if in season. Nougat aux pistaches is made by omitting the cochineal, and when spread out upon the baking-sheet sprinkling chopped pistachios over whilst very hot, and proceeding as in the last.

No. 1214. _Small Cups of Nougat._

Prepare the nougat as before, then have a number of dariole or tartelette moulds, oil the interior slightly, and when the mixture is half cold put a piece the size of a walnut in each, which press to the shape of the mould, with your finger and thumb; when cold take them out and serve filled with cream as before. Vases and large cups may also be made with it, by having moulds and proceeding as for the smaller ones; but for the larger moulds or shapes, which require more time to fill, to prevent the mixture getting cold, keep the pan upon a trivet at the mouth of the oven, taking it by pieces as you require.

No. 1215. _Nougat d’Abricot._

Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll twelve times, leaving it about the thickness of half-a-crown piece, place it upon a baking-sheet, and spread apricot marmalade over a quarter an inch in thickness, then have ready, finely chopped and well dried, three quarters of a pound of blanched sweet almonds, which put into a basin with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, and mix with the whites of four eggs, spread it all over the marmalade and bake in a hot oven a nice colour; when cold cut it into pieces of any shape you please, and dress in crown upon a napkin to serve. Brioche paste (No. 1321) would be better than puff paste for the above, but they are very excellent either way.

No. 1216. _Châtaignes Croquantes._

Roast sixty chesnuts, take them from the husks, and when cold pound them well, adding a little white of egg to prevent their oiling; then add half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, and the yolks of two or three eggs, mix all well together; lay the paste upon a marble slab, roll it out into small pieces two inches long, place them on a baking-sheet, mark with a knife upon the top, and bake in a sharp oven, when done dip them into sugar boiled to au casse (No. 1379), when cold they are ready to serve.

No. 1217. _Amandes Croquantes._

Blanch one pound of sweet almonds, which put in a slow oven to dry, when cold put them into a mortar with one pound of lump sugar, pound very fine and pass them through a wire sieve upon a marble slab, rub in three quarters of a pound of butter, a little chopped rind of lemon, and the yolks of three eggs, form the paste thus made, into small pieces of any shape you please, which bake and dip in sugar as in the last.

No. 1218. _Meringues à la Cuilliere._

Pound and sift one pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of ten eggs very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you have wetted, and put them into a slow oven, just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly tinge; when the outside becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy-turvy and lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and put into the screen to dry; they may be made a day or two before they are required, if put away in a dry place; to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavoured either with vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin and serve. Should they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water.

No. 1219. _Turban de Meringues._

Make a meringue mixture as above of five eggs and half a pound of sugar, which lay out on white paper, but with a teaspoon, of the size and shape of pheasants’ eggs; sift sugar over, which shake off directly, place them upon boards and bake in a slacker oven than directed for the last, keeping them quite white, and drying them quite through; when cold wet the paper underneath, take off the meringues, dry them a little more, have ready, and baked a round board of pâte d’office (No. 1137), seven inches in diameter, have also ready a little white iceing (No. 1383) mixed rather stiff, form a ring of it round the rim of the board, upon which dress the meringues, placing a piece of the iceing the size of a pea at the bottom of each to fix them one to the other, place it to dry, have a little iceing thinner than the last, dip one end of the remaining meringues into it, and then into chopped pistachios (very green), with them form another row upon the first, keeping the green end uppermost, dry it till set, and when ready to serve fill the interior with a whipped cream as in the last, and sprinkle chopped pistachios over, or fill them with any of the crèmes bavaroises; the meringues may likewise be laid out with a paper cornet.

No. 1220. _Turban de Meringues glacé._

Make a turban as directed in the last, then soak two ounces of citron (candied), two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, in one glass of maresquino, mix the whole in a freezing-pot with a pint and a half of vanilla ice (No. 1381), fill the turban, at the moment of serving, with it.

No. 1221. _Petits Meringues aux Pistaches._

Make a meringue mixture of five whites of eggs and half a pound of sugar as before, lay out upon papers with a teaspoon; have ready two ounces of chopped pistachios, which sprinkle over, then sift a little sugar over, which shake off immediately, place them upon boards, bake and empty as directed for meringues à la cuillerée (No. 1218), fill them with whipped cream in which you have introduced a few chopped pistachios, stick two together and serve; these are intended more for garniture than to be served as a dish by themselves.

No. 1222. _Champignons en surprise._

Make a meringue mixture of ten eggs as before, put one half of the mixture into a paper horn, (or cornet,) cut a piece of the bottom with a knife to leave a hole as large as the tip of your little finger, press the mixture through it upon sheets of white paper, into pieces as large round as a five-shilling piece, sprinkle them over with grated chocolate and powdered sugar mixed, put the remainder of the mixture into another paper horn, cut a hole at the bottom smaller than in the last, and press the mixture through it upon paper, into pieces an inch and a half in length, and thicker at one end than the other, commencing at the small end to form the stalk of a mushroom, sift a little sugar over, place them upon a board, with those you first laid out, put in a slow oven, when the smaller ones are perfectly dried take them off the papers, stick two together, dip the thick end in white of egg and then into grated chocolate, take out the larger ones, remove them from the paper by wetting it at the back, then stick the smaller ones into them, thus forming mushrooms, dry in the screen and use them for garniture where directed.

No. 1223. _Biscuit manqué aux Amandes._

Put half a pound of powdered sugar into a basin, with the yolks of six eggs, beat them well together with a wooden spoon, melt two ounces of fresh butter, which add to the mixture, with six ounces of flour and the whites of the six eggs beat very stiff, stir it till well mixed, but not more than is required, butter a sauté-pan lightly, put some finely powdered sugar into it, shake all over the pan and turn out that which does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture, have a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds cut into thin fillets, lay them upon the top and sift sugar over, bake in a moderate oven of a light brown colour; when done take it out of the sauté-pan, and when cold cut it in pieces of a diamond shape three inches in length and two in breadth and serve dressed in pyramid.

No. 1224. _Biscuit manqué au Rhum._

Put half a pound of powdered sugar in a basin, with three quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, (melted,) two glasses of old Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds well pounded, (with the sugar,) and a little salt; mix the whole together, with the yolks of six and two whole eggs, then add the whites of the six eggs whipped very stiff, stirring them in very lightly, have ready a large square paper box, butter the interior well and pour in the mixture; bake in a moderate oven; when nearly done egg over the top with a paste-brush and cover with a preparation of almonds made thus: blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, which cut into thin fillets, dry them in a hot closet, put them into a basin, with three ounces of sugar and mix with the whites of two eggs, place the manqué again in the oven until done and the almonds become slightly browned, then take it from the oven and when cold cut in diamonds or any other shapes your fancy may direct. They do not require to be more than an inch in thickness, and rum may be exchanged for any other flavour if desired.

* * * * *

No. 1225. _Calf’s Foot Jelly, flavoured as required._

Jellies may be considered as the first, most wholesome, and refreshing dishes of the second course, especially when made from calves’ feet, which meritorious discovery belongs especially to the English kitchen, where I believe they have been used for years; the inventor certainly deserves a place in the archives of cookery. For the making of jellies in France nothing but isinglass is used, which is so adulterated in its preparation that it requires a person to be a good judge to select it, whilst calves’ feet may be selected by any one, only requiring to be well scalded and fresh. But here I must observe that the discovery has never been advantageously developed to the public at large, for the introduction of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and other spices, give it a very common flavour, which does not at all harmonize with the delicacy of the jelly; a real gourmet would not only send it from his table, but discharge the maker with the impression that a cook without taste was no cook at all; the only flavour required in jelly being some light liqueur, wine, or the freshness of some delicious fruits. Orange jelly, and jelly from the juice of any other fruits, may likewise be made with the calf’s foot jelly, by omitting the greater part of juice of lemon and using it instead, but here isinglass has an advantage, it will keep for any time and may be used in the country where, perhaps, at the time required calves’ feet cannot be obtained.

Take four calf’s feet, cut them up and put them into a stewpan, with six quarts of water, place upon the fire; when boiling remove to the corner, where let boil slowly five hours, to reduce to about two quarts, keeping well skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, in which let remain in a cold place till set quite firm, take off as much of the oil from the top as possible with a spoon, and wash off the remainder with a little hot water as quickly as possible, wipe dry with a cloth, and put it into a stewpan, with a pound of lump sugar broken in small pieces, the juice of ten lemons, the rind of four (free from pith), the whites of eight eggs, with the shells, half a pint of water, and half a pint of sherry, place the stewpan over the fire and keep whisking its contents until boiling, then pass it through your jelly bag, pouring that which first runs through back again, until it runs quite clear; it is then ready for use as directed in the following receipts.

To be quite certain of the strength of your jelly take a little from the stewpan previous to its boiling, which put into the bottom of a small mould and place upon the ice if too strong add a little more water, but if by mistake too weak reduce it in clarifying.

I have invented some few new jelly moulds, the designs of which are shown in the accompanying plates, also some new fruit atelettes (which will be found at the end of this work), one of which, placed at the top of a jelly when turned out, is a very handsome addition.

No. 1226. _Gelée de Dantzic aux Fraises._

Take a quart of jelly clarified as above, with which mix four glasses of eau de vie de Dantzic, reserving the gold leaves by letting them set at the bottom of the glass, mix four tablespoonfuls of the jelly with it, have a cylinder mould and place it in ice, put the jelly with the leaves first in, so that the gold will show at the top of the jelly when turned out, place a fine strawberry in each knob of the mould, then add a little more jelly, when nearly set add more strawberries, sticking them to the sides of the mould and arranging them as tastefully as possible, fill up by degrees or you would have all the strawberries swimming at the top; when finished and quite set it is ready to turn out, which is done by dipping the mould in warm water; wipe quickly with a cloth, shake the mould gently, turn over carefully upon your dish, and draw the mould off quite straight. Two glasses of pale brandy may advantageously be added to the jelly.

No. 1227. _Gelée de Maresquin aux Pêches._

Take a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four glasses of the best Italian maresquino, have four nice ripe peaches, but perfectly sound, which cut into quarters, bury a cylinder mould in ice, place a little jelly at the bottom, then arrange some of the pieces of peaches, which cover with jelly; when nearly set arrange the remainder, and fill up the mould, proceeding as in the last. The fruit will impart its own peculiar flavour to the jelly.

No. 1228. _Gelée de Noyeau aux Abricots._

Flavour a quart of jelly clarified as before with four glasses of the best noyeau, (here I must remark that if the liquors used are not of the best quality it would render the jelly cloudy and very unsightly,) have six nice ripe deep-coloured apricots, which cut in quarters and arrange tastefully in your mould, proceeding as in the two preceding articles. Observe in arranging the fruit in your mould that each piece is separate, so as to leave some parts of the jelly transparent, otherwise it would appear very heavy and ungraceful.

No. 1229. _Gelée Macédoine aux Fruits de belle saison._

Prepare a quart of jelly as directed (No. 1225) putting the gold leaves in the mould, which you have previously surrounded with ice, have ready twelve very fresh strawberries, twelve black grapes, twelve very white cherries, and one peach or apricot cut in six, put six strawberries at the bottom, with a piece of peach between each, cover with jelly, when set place in another row of fruit, proceeding thus until full, but not putting the fruit too close together and variegating it as much as possible, or if in winter and the above fruit cannot be obtained prepare three small apples, (golden pippins,) which cut into quarters and put into a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and one ounce of powdered sugar, set them over a slow fire to stew till tender, then put them out on a plate to cool, peel and take all the pith from two small oranges, which cut in quarters, have also a few brandied cherries and some fine black and green grapes; arrange the whole tastefully in your mould, filling with jelly as before directed.

No. 1230. _Bordure de Poires en gelée._

Cut twelve middling-sized ripe pears in halves, take out the cores, peel neatly, and throw them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons and half a pound of lump sugar, let stew rather quickly till tender, but not to break, put them upon a dish till cold, have a cylinder mould (but not too deep) upon the ice, have a quart of jelly flavoured with four glasses of any liquor, put a little at the bottom of the mould half an inch in depth when set, dress your pears round in a border, (but the reverse way, so that they become right when the mould is turned over,) fill the mould up with the jelly when quite cold and upon the point of setting, and when wanted turn it out as before, and fill up the centre with red whipped jelly. Apricots or peaches cut in halves may be dressed the same, or apples.

No. 1231. _Gelée au Rhum._

Have a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four wineglasses of old Jamaica rum, colour a little with some essence of cochineal, pour it into your mould without any fruit. This is better appreciated by a party of gentlemen, and should not be introduced where there are ladies; by keeping the jelly a little stiffer you may introduce more rum.

No. 1232. _Gelée Mousseuse à l’Eau de Vie._

Put a pint and a half of jelly in a stewpan upon the ice, add four glasses of cognac brandy, whip it until very light and upon the point of setting, when pour in your mould, it will be quite white; when ready to serve turn it out as before directed. If wanted clear, proceed as for gelée au rhum.

No. 1233. _Gelée demie chaude froide marbrée._

Flavour a quart of jelly with three glasses of maresquino, have ready also a pint of the preparation (crème au maresquin, No. 1251), nearly set in a basin, dip in three apricots cut in quarters, which put in a plate upon the ice till set, have also some quarters of peaches, which also dip into the cream, when set commence filling your mould with the jelly, placing a few fine strawberries at the bottom, then some of the fruit enveloped, filling with the jelly as before directed, and variegating it as much as possible with black grapes, strawberries, and the enveloped fruit. This is quite a new idea, it not only looks well but likewise cuts and eats beautiful.

No. 1234. _Gelée fouettée aux Fruits._

Put a pint and a half of jelly upon the ice in a stewpan, to which add three glasses of maresquino, whip the jelly to a white froth, and when upon the point of setting stir in very carefully about thirty strawberries, not too ripe, with a few cherries, apricots in quarters, or peaches; fill your mould and when set turn out as usual. A jelly for whipping requires to be rather stiffer than when clear, if not stiff enough add a little clarified isinglass.

No. 1235. _Gelée à l’Ananas._

Procure a middling-sized pineapple, peel it carefully, cut in halves lengthwise, then into slices, (rather thin,) have a quart of jelly in which you have infused the rind of the pineapple, previously well washed, place a little at the bottom of the mould, and when nearly set lay a border of the pineapple over one upon another, forming a ring, cover with more jelly, let it nearly set, then add another border of the pineapples, proceeding thus until the mould is filled.

No. 1236. _Orange Jelly._

Have ten fine Malta oranges and three or four lemons, peel off the rind of eight very finely, which put into a basin, clarify a pound of sugar (No. 1379), pass through a napkin into the basin (over the rind) whilst hot, and cover with a sheet of foolscap paper, twisting it tightly over the edge, and pricking a small hole in the centre with a pin to give a little vent; cut the oranges and lemons in halves, squeeze out all the juice through a hair sieve into another basin, and proceed to clarify it as follows: wash well two sheets of white blotting-paper in a basin of water, let well drain upon a sieve, bruise it in a mortar until forming quite a purée, take from the mortar and put it into the basin with the juice, which mix well with it; let remain a quarter of an hour to settle, then pour it into your jelly bag, pouring what runs through back again into the bag until becoming as clear as spring water, strain the syrup again through a napkin, add the clarified juice, two ounces of clarified isinglass (No. 1372), and a few drops of liquid cochineal, to give an orange tint; mix all well together, and pour into a mould surrounded with ice, when set and ready to serve, turn out as before directed.

* * * * *

Lemon Jelly is made precisely as directed for the orange jelly, using all lemon-juice instead of orange, rather more syrup, and omitting the cochineal. Some persons mix a handful of white sand well washed with the juice which will assist the clarification, but the idea would be objectionable to many.

No. 1237. _Orange Jelly, in the skins of the Oranges._

Procure twelve of the best-formed oranges, and with a round vegetable cutter cut a hole of the size of a shilling at the stalk of each, then with the handle of a teaspoon empty all the pulp from them and clear away as much of the pith as possible, throw them into cold water to harden and retake their original shapes, make a jelly with the pulps as in the last, drain the skins of the oranges, stand them upon ice and fill with the jelly, dress in pyramid when set, or cut them in quarters for garnishing. Should you make a hole in clearing out the skins, place a small piece of butter over previous to placing them upon ice, which take off at the time of serving.

No. 1238. _Gelée de Fraises._