Chapter II: Part 2

All kinds of fish sauce should be thicker for boiled fish than for broiled or fried.

Brown sauce should be a little thinnish and the colour of a horse-chesnut.

White sauce should be of the colour of ivory, and thicker than brown sauce.

Cream, or Dutch sauce, must be rather thick, and cannot be too white.

Demi-glace requires to be rather thin, but yet sufficiently reduced to envelope any pieces of meat, game, poultry, &c., with which it is served.

Every description of fish should be well done, but not over-boiled, broiled, stewed, or fried.

Beef and mutton must be underdone even for joints, removes, and entrees.

Lamb requires to be more done.

Veal and pork must be well done.

Venison must be underdone, red in the middle, and full of gravy, but not raw.

Poultry, either broiled, stewed, boiled, or roasted, must be done thoroughly, not cutting in the least red, but must be still full of gravy.

Pheasants and partridges must be well done through, yet full of gravy.

Grouse, black cocks, gray hens, and ptarmigans, must cut reddish, with plenty of gravy, but not too much underdone.

All kinds of water-fowl must be very much underdone, so that the blood and gravy follow the knife in carving.

Plovers must be rather underdone, but done through.

Rabbits and pigeons must be well done.

Second-course savoury dishes must be rather highly seasoned, but with a little moderation.

Pastry should, when baked, be clear, light, and transparent, and of a beautiful straw colour; the body of a croustade the same.

Large pies, timbales, and casseroles of rice must be of a yellowish brown colour.

Jellies require to be rather white and transparent for fruits, and not too firm, but better so than too delicate.

Orange jellies should be of a deep orange colour, and all fruit jellies as near as possible to the colour of the fruit.

Creams should be very light and delicate, but fruit creams must be kept of the colour of the fruits they are made of.

For all the demi-glacé removes the ice must be firm, but not the least hard.

All kinds of soufflé or fondu must be well done through, or they would be very indigestible, clog the delicate palate, and prevent the degustation of the generous claret which flows so freely after dinner on the table of the real epicure.

I recommend sugar in almost all savoury dishes, as it greatly facilitates digestion and invigorates the palate, but always increase or diminish the quantity according to the taste of your employer.

I often introduce onions, eschalots, or even a little garlic in some of my most delicate dishes, but so well blended with other flavours that I never have a single objection even by those who have a great dislike to it.

Horseradish and herbs of every description may always be used with discretion to great advantage.

Contrary to the expressed opinion of every other previous publication, I say that too much seasoning is preferable to too little, as your employer can correct you by saying there is too much of this or that, and you can soon get it to his taste; but while you fear over-seasoning you produce no flavour at all; by allowing each guest to season for himself, your sauce attains a diversity of flavours. The cook must season for the guest, not the guest for the cook.

I have always found great advantage in dressing the greatest part of my entrées on a thin roll of mashed potatoes;[2] this has never been found objectionable, as it is so thin that it is imperceptible when covered with the sauces, and serves to prevent any entrées dressed in crown from being upset, before going on table, by the carelessness of the servant; for large removes, as turkey à la Nelson (No. 510), &c., after forming the ship (see engraving), egg, bread-crumb, and set in a moderate oven to brown, fix in your croustade, and dish up; the potatoes may be eaten, but not the croustade, which is merely an embellishment. Borders may also be made of forcemeat, as for ris de veau (No. 673), but gives much more trouble without being better; also of rice, by preparing it as for casserole au riz (p. 260); it may be used as mashed potatoes. Make but few preserves, only those that are indispensable; you will have a continual enjoyment of earlier stock, as Nature closely watches our wants and liberally supplies our wishes. The real gourmet, though anxious to produce novelty, never attempts to over-force the produce of the various seasons.

BRAISED ROAST TURKEY, CAPON, OR FOWL.

Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, one turnip, cut them in thin slices, also a little celery, a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, lay three sheets of paper on the table, spread your vegetables, and pour over them two or three tablespoonfuls of oil; have your turkey, or poularde, trussed the same as for boiling; cover the breast with thin slices of bacon, and lay the back of the bird on the vegetables; cut a few slices of lemon, which you lay on the breast to keep it white, tie the paper round with string, then pass the spit and set it before the fire; pour plenty of fat over to moisten the paper and prevent from burning, roast three hours at a pretty good distance from the fire: capons will take two hours, poulardes one hour and a half, fowls one hour, and chickens half an hour.

AMATEUR RECEIPTS.

_Ris de Veau aux Pistaches à la Dr. Roots._

Take three fine sweetbreads, clean them well with milk and water, in order to make them as white as possible; do them gradually in a stewpan with good white gravy, some onion, carrot, and celery, with a little mace; then stuff them well with pistachio nuts nicely bruised; put them “en papillote” (that is, to oil or butter a piece of paper, which you fasten round by twisting it along the edge) and give them a nice wholesome colour; they will require from twenty to twenty-five minutes to bring them to a proper state of excellence, with the good, fine, wholesome colour they may be served up, with white endive, or celery sauce aux pistaches, after the above manner.

_Potage froid, ou Salade à la Dr. Roots._

Make some very good and highly-flavoured calf’s-head soup, with a good abundance of egg and forcemeat balls, and some sausage-meat introduced therein; the pieces of calf’s-head should not be cut larger than an inch square. When this soup is properly prepared and ripe, pour it into several milkpans, to the depth of about two inches; let it stand in this way to cool and stiffen, for the next day’s use.

Dress a nice light salad of mustard and cress, with endive and a slight sprinkle of well-cut celery; take this salad from the bowl (in which it has been dressed), lightly with a fork, and form in a pyramid in the centre of a dish, around which place tastefully-ornamented slices of the cold and substantial soup, cut into slices about the size and thickness of calf’s liver that is usually served up with bacon. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs and lemon. This, if properly managed, forms not only a pretty-looking spring dish, but a most excellent one.

_Roast Swan à la Norwich._

Take three pounds of beef, beat fine in a mortar,
Put it into the Swan--that is, when you’ve caught her;
Some pepper, salt, mace, some nutmeg, an onion,
Will heighten the flavour in Gourmand’s opinion;
Then tie it up tight with a small piece of tape,
That the gravy and other things may not escape.
A meal-paste (rather stiff) should be laid on the breast,
And some whited-brown paper should cover the rest.
Fifteen minutes at least ere the Swan you take down,
Pull the paste off the bird, that the breast may get brown.

THE GRAVY.

To a gravy of beef (good and strong) I opine
You’ll be right if you add half a pint of port wine:
Pour this through the Swan--yes, quite through the belly:
Then serve the whole up with some hot currant jelly.

N. B.--The Swan must _not_ be skinned.

ANOTHER RECEIPT.

Take two pounds of rump steak, chop it fine, season well with spice, a piece of onion, or eschalot, and butter. Rub the breast both inside and outside with beaten cloves, then stuff with the above, taking care to sew the bird up carefully, and to tie it very tightly on the spit, so that the gravy may not escape. Inclose the breast of the swan in a meal-paste, after which cover the whole bird with paper well greased with beef dripping. About a quarter of an hour before the bird is taken up, remove the paper and the paste, baste well with butter and flour till brown and _frothy_. A swan of fifteen pounds weight requires about two hours roasting with a fire not too fierce.

THE GRAVY.

Take the giblets and a piece of beef, with a pint of port wine, and make a good gravy. Pour some of this through the body of the swan when dished. Some red currant jelly and port wine should be made hot and served up likewise.

N. B.--The swan is _not_ to be skinned.

_Cock a Leekie à la Wemyss._

To some good stock made the previous night from an old fowl, or of veal, add three pounds of the white part of the leeks, and let the whole boil slowly for three hours, then add a skinned fowl (old or young), cut into neat pieces, and three dozen of good prunes. Let all simmer together for one hour longer. Season with salt and white pepper, and you will have good cock a leekie.

N. B.--In frost the leeks require less boiling.

BOUQUET DE GIBIER, OR SPORTING NOSEGAY.

CADEAU FOR CHRISTMAS.

This very seasonable novelty originated with M. Soyer, “the Gastronomic Regenerator,” of the Reform Club; and, like everything which emanates from his inventive brain, is distinguished by its taste and utility. This is, indeed, a picturesque mode of keeping game, so as to make them ornamental until they become useful--at table. The lovers of “still life” pictures cannot but admire this “_Bouquet_;” and it is not unworthy of our painters’ attention. The several articles of game, &c., are secured between branches of laurel and other evergreens, set off with dried and coloured flowers, “everlastings,” &c. The handsome specimen we have engraved bears the following, arranged in the order here denoted:

TWO GOLDEN PLOVERS.
LEVERET.
WILD DUCK. PHEASANT.
WILD RABBIT.
GROUSE. WIDGEON.
FRENCH PARTRIDGE. ENGLISH PARTRIDGE.
WOODCOCK. TEAL.
TWO SNIPES.
TWO LARKS.

The brilliancy of the plovers and of the pheasant, and the brightness of the wild-duck, backed by the sombre green, and the whole variegated and relieved by multicoloured flowers, is really very effective.

Not many days since, M. Soyer presented one of his “Bouquets de Gibier” to Viscount Melbourne, at Brocket Hall; when his lordship admired the novelty exceedingly, as did also the noble party on a visit at Brocket.

Another “Bouquet” has been presented by M. Soyer to a lady of high fashion and beauty, if we may judge from the triplet which accompanied the offering:

MADAM,

Flora having forsaken her flowers,
I quickly embraced the sport of swift Diana,
To dedicate and present this bouquet to Venus.

Count d’Orsay, the _arbiter elegantiarum_ of our day, on the “Bouquet” being submitted to him, admired the artistical design, and suggested that Landseer would appreciate its novelty, adding, “What a beautiful trophy it would make for a sideboard or a dining-room!”

The “Bouquet,” we augur, will be popular in the approaching Christmas season; and though there is a musty old proverb about “looking at a gift-horse,” the above novelty will surely throw the old-fashioned baskets into the shade, by presenting much that is agreeable to the eye, with the proximate association of another sense of enjoyment.

OLIVE-BRANCH BETWEEN FRANCE AND ENGLAND.

A present extraordinary to the King and Queen of the French was forwarded from London to Paris on the 21st of December by the well-known Gastronomic Regenerator, M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, and was presented to their Majesties on the 24th, in the morning, at the Palace of the Tuileries. Their Majesties were so delighted with the novelty and elegance of the composition, that after a long examination the King ordered it to be carried to the apartments of her Majesty the Queen of the Belgians, who was exceedingly pleased with it, and afterwards the whole of the royal family was summoned to see this bouquet; the sight was so new and unexpected that it met with their unanimous approbation. His Majesty then observed that such a welcome and graceful present from a foreign country had never before penetrated through France to the palace of its kings. Immediately after, by the orders of his Majesty, the sporting nosegay was carried by two gentlemen porters to the council of ministers then sitting at the Tuileries, and was admired by every one. It is reported that his Majesty intends to have a similar bouquet carved in wood for ornamenting the grand sideboard of the magnificent banqueting hall of the palace. To give an idea of the composition of this splendid innovation, the following description perhaps will be interesting to the public. The length of it was about ten feet, and wide in proportion. The frame was richly covered with Christmas holly, laurels, mistletoe, and evergreen, with a great variety of winter flowers. There were twenty-two heads of game, consisting of larks, snipes, woodcocks, black peweets, teal, French and English partridges, grouse, widgeons, wild ducks, black cocks, pheasants, a leveret, a hare, and golden plovers; the interstices were lightly filled with wheat and oats, the whole ornamented with tri-coloured ribands and small flags at the top--and to give a still more pleasing effect, fancy birds of beautiful plumage, so abundant in England, were spread in every part of this magnificent nosegay.

The following letter from his Majesty the King of the French, accompanied with a beautiful pin forming a bouquet of diamonds and pearls, was sent by his Majesty’s orders to the French Ambassador, and forwarded to Monsieur Soyer at the Reform Club.

_Cabinet du Roi, Château des Tuileries_; 1847.

MONSIEUR,

Le Roi a reçu votre ouvrage sur l’art culinaire, et le groupe de
gibier dont vous lui avez fait hommage.

Je suis chargé, Monsieur, de vous transmettre les remercimens de sa
Majesté pour cette double attention, et d’y joindre comme
témoignage de sa satisfaction, le bijou que je m’empresse de vous
remettre.

Recevez je vous prie, Monsieur, mes plus parfaites salutations.

Le Secrétaire du Cabinet, CAMILLE FAIN.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

NUMBER OF STEWPANS AND OTHER KITCHEN UTENSILS

REQUIRED IN THE KITCHENS OF WHICH I HAVE GIVEN PLANS, COMMENCING WITH THE COMPLETE BATTERIE DE CUISINE OF THE REFORM CLUB.

---------------------------------------------------+---------+---------+----------+------------+-----------
| Reform | Kitchen | Kitchen | Kitchen |
Utensils. | Club | of the | at | of the | Cottage
| Kitchen.| Wealthy.| Home. | Bachelor. | Kitchen.
---------------------------------------------------+---------+---------+----------+------------+-----------
Stewpans, the sizes fluctuating from six gallons | 89 | 36 | 12 |6, 1 holding| 4
to half a pint | | | | a gall. |
Stock-pots, varying from twelve gallons to two | 8 | 4 | 1 | | 6 black
Turbot kettles, one full size, and another two | | | | | saucepans
sizes smaller | 2 | 2 | 1 small | |
Long Fish-kettles, two large and two middling-sized| | | 1 rather| 1 rather |
ones | 4 | 2 | larger | wide. | 1
Braising-pans, two large and two middling-sized | 4 | 2 | 1 | .. |
Preserving-pans (copper), one large round bottomed | | | | |
and one large flat bottomed | 2 | 2 | 1 | .. | 1 flat
Egg bowls, one large and one middling-sized | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | bottomed
Baba and sponge-cake moulds | 2 | 3 | 1 | |
Large round copper pie-dishes for servants | 4 | 2 | | |
Thick flat braising-pans with hermetic covers | 6 | 6 | 2 | 1 |
Sautépans, twenty deep, with thick bottoms, | | | | |
and ten others | 30 | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2
Bain-marie-pans, varying from two gallons to | | | | |
a pint | 36 | 18 | 6 | 2 |
Pie-moulds for raised pies | 6 | 4 | 2 | 1 |
Jelly and charlotte moulds | 24 | 12 | 4 | 1 |
Small bordure for aspic jellies | 6 | 4 | 1 | 2 |
Freezing-pots, with accessories | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Baking-sheets of various sizes | 12 | 12 | 2 | 2 |
Gridirons | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Salamanders | 2 | 1 | 1 small | 1 do. | 1
Spoon drainers | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Spits of various sizes, including two with | | | | |
cradles | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2 |
Dripping-pans | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Steam copper cases for puddings and potatoes | 4 | 2 | | |
Round copper fruit bowls with handles | 4 | 1 | 1 | |
Sugar-pans | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Soup ladles (small and cheap utensils) | 18 | 12 | 4 | 2 | 1
Copper kitchen spoons, six of which are colander | | | | |
spoons | 36 | 18 | 8 | 6 | 2
Wire baskets for frying | 6 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1
Wire sieves | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Hair sieves | 8 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1
Omelette-pans | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1
Small Jelly and driole moulds | 36 | 18 | 12 | 12 |
Tartelette-pans | 36 | 12 | 12 | 3 |
Tammies | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2 |
Jelly bags | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Wooden spoons | 24 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4
Paste brushes | 10 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 1
Scissors | 2prs.| 1 | 1 | 1 | 1
Kitchen knives | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2 | 1
Boxes of cutters for vegetables and pastry | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 |
Trivets, four common, and two for gas stoves | 6 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Meat saws, four large and two small | 6 | 3 |2, 1 small| 2 | 2
Cutlet bats | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1
Meat choppers, large | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Steak-tongs, two large and two small pairs | 4prs.| 2 | 1 large | 1 | 1
Meat-hooks | 24 | 12 | 6 | 6 | 4
Rolling-pins | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1
Kitchen basins | 36 | 24 | 12 | 8 | 6
Small pie-dishes for fruit and meat | 24 | 12 | 6 | 4 | 6
Kitchen table-cloths | 24 | 12 | 8 | 4 | 2
Rubbers | 8 | 8 | 4 | 4 | 2
Fish napkins | 24 | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2
Pudding-cloths | 18 | 12 | 4 | 2 | 2
Round towels | 12 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2

TABLE OF CONTENTS,

OR ABBREVIATED SUMMARY, REFERRING (FROM PAGE TO PAGE) TO THE VARIOUS SERIES OF DISHES, ETC.

(_For General Contents see the end of the Volume._)

SAUCES.

PAGE

Foundation sauces, 1--9

Thin sauces, 9--14

Sauces, 14--33

Sauces, with Garnitures of Vegetables, or garnishing, 34--48

APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES.

Composed of forcemeat of veal, rabbits, fowl,
game, whitings, cod-liver, panada, veal-stuffing,
boiled rice, branched macaroni, croquettes of potatoes, glaze, 48--52

Potages, or soups, 53--88

FISH--POISSON.

Method of cleaning salt-water fish, 90, 92

Method of cleaning fresh-waterfish, 93--94

FISH DRESSED.

Turbot, 95--101

Brill, 101--104

John Dory, 104--107

Salmon, or saumon, 107--111

Cod-fish, or cabillaud, 119--122

Red mullets, 122--124

Whitings, or merlans, 125--126

Mackerel, or maquereaux, 126--128

Gurnets, 130--132

Haddocks, or merluches, 128--130

Herrings, or harengs, 31

Skate, or raie, 133

Smelts, or éperlans, 134

Flounders, or carrelets, 135

Plaice, or plie, 135

White-bait, 136

Sturgeons, or esturgeons, 136

Shell-fish, 137--139

FRESH-WATER FISH.

Pike, or brochets, 139--143

Carp, 143--144

Tench, or tanche, 144--145

Perch, 146

Trout, or truite, 147--148

Eels, or anguilles, 148--149

Lampreys, 149

Crawfish, or écrevisses, 149

HORS-D’ŒUVRES,

OR DISHES TO BE HANDED ROUND THE TABLE. Composed of--

Petits vol-au-vents and petites bouchées, made of beef-marrow, mackerel,
skate, liver, oysters, lobsters, fowls, and game, 151--155

Petits pâtés of oysters, lobsters, and shrimps, 156

Rissoles of oysters, lobsters, shrimps, mackerel, game, and fowls, 156--159

Croustades of butter, 160

Aiguillettes of sweetbread, 161

Escalops of oysters, lobsters, fillets of soles, and fowls, 161--163

REMOVES. FIRST COURSE.

Beef, or bœuf, 164--176

Ox tongue, or langue de bœuf, 177

Veal, or veau, 177--184

Calf’s head, or tête de veau, 184--188

Mutton, or mouton, 189--196

Lamb, or agneau, 196--201

Pork, 202--204

Turkey, or dinde, 205--206

Capon, or poularde, 203--220

Fowls, or poulets, 215--220

Goose, or oie, 220--221

Ducklings, or cannetons, 221

Venison, or venaison, 221--226

Grouse, 228

Black cocks, 229

Hare, or lièvre, 229

FLANCS. Composed of--

Fillets of beef, tongue, and Wesphalia hams, 230--233

Loin, knuckle, neck of veal, and calf’s head, 234--237

Neck and loin of mutton, 238--240

Saddle, shoulder, and neck of lamb, 240--243

Chicken and duckling, 244--248

Pheasant, grouse, and partridge, 249--253

Leverets and rabbits, 254--256

Pâté chaud, or hot pie, 256--260

Vol-au-vents and casserole of rice, do. rabbits,
lamb’s and calf’s tail, lamb’s and sheep’s trotters, 260--264

ENTREES, or MADE DISHES.

Beef, or bœuf, 266--278

Veal, or veau, 279--294

Mutton, or mouton, 294--307

Lamb, or agneau, 308--321

Pork, or porc-frais, 322--325

Venison, or venaison, 325--329

ENTREES OF POULTRY.

Turkey, or dinde, 329--331

Poulet, or poularde, 332--340

Fowls, or volaille, 340--347

Spring chickens, or poulets, 348--351

QUENELLES, OR FORCEMEAT. Composed of--

Quenelles of fowls, 352--354

Boudins, croquettes, and rissolettes, 355--357

Fillets of ducklings, 358--359

ENTREES OF GAME.

Hare, or lièvre, 360--362

Rabbits, or lapins, 363--366

Pheasant, or faisan, 367--370

Grouse, 371--373

Partridges, or perdreaux, 374--377

Wild ducks, or canards sauvages, 378--379

Teal, or cercelles, 380--381

Woodcocks, or bécasses, 382--385

Plovers, or pluviers, 386--387

Quails, or cailles, 388--389

Pigeons, 389--390

Larks, or mauviettes, 391--392

ROASTS FOR SECOND COURSE.

Turkey, or dinde, 393--397

Capon, pullet, and chicken, 398--399

Goose, or oie, 400

Duckling, or canneton, 400

Woodcocks, or bécasses, 401

Guinea-fowl, or poule d’Inde, 401

Pea-fowl, or paon, 401

Pigeons, 402

Quails, or cailles, 402

Pheasants, or faisans, 403

Grouse, 403

Ptarmigan, 404

Black cocks and gray hens, 405

Partridge, or perdrix, 405

Dun bird, 405

Wild duck, or canard sauvage, 405--406

Teal, or cercelles, 406--407

Plovers, or pluviers, 407

Woodcock, or bécasse, 408

Larks, or mauviettes, 408

Snipes, or bécassines, 409

Hares, or lièvres, 409

Leverets, or levrauts, 409

Rabbits, or lapins, 409

SAVOURY DISHES FOR SECOND COURSE. Composed of--

Boar’s head, ribs and fillets of beef, ox tongue, cold ham, 410--419

Fillet and loin of veal, galantine, and pâtés of veal
and ham, cotelettes of veal, and sweetbread, 420--424

Cotelettes, turban, and carbonade of mutton, 425

Balottins and cotelettes of lamb, 426--427

Galantine and pâté of turkey, capon (or poularde), 428--433

Chaud-froid of poularde (or capon), fillets of do.,
duckling en aspic, salad of fowl, aspic mould, 434--438

Galantine, pâtés, fillet, and chaud-froid of pheasant, 439--440

Galantine and salad of grouse, 441

Galantine and pâtés of partridges, 442--443

Woodcocks and pâtés froid of larks (cold), 444

Lobster salad, mayonnaises of lobster, lobster en aspic au gratin, 445--446

Crabs, oysters en coquilles, salad of fillet of soles,
trout and salmon pickled, galantine of eels, 447--449

VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE.

Asparagus, sea kale, celery, salsify,
cucumbers, and vegetable marrow, 450--454

Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflowers, brocoli, 455--456

Artichokes, peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts, 457--462

Spinach, endive, sorrel, lettuces, 463--465

Windsor beans, white haricot do., 466--467

Tomatas and mushrooms, 468

Carrots, turnips, onions, spring vegetables, 469

Potatoes, lentils, truffles, 470--474

Omelettes fines herbes, ham, truffles, mushrooms, olives,
jardinière, oysters,
fillets of soles, muscles, lobsters, sugar, preserves,
and rum, 474--477

ENTREMETS, OR SWEETS.

Observations on pastry, different sorts of paste,
puffpaste, do. with beef suet,
do. half puff, confectioner’s paste, almond paste, and gum paste, 478--483

Vol-au-vents of peaches, apricots, greengages, cherries, pears, apples,
oranges, and gateau mille-feuille, 484--486

Turban à la crême, wells of fruit, Pthiviers cakes, 487--488

Tourtes, tartelettes, and fanchonettes à la vanille, 489--493

Dauphines, tartelettes, mirlitons, and petits vol-au-vents, 494--495

Gateaux fourrés with preserves, 497--499

Turban de Condé, and apricot cakes, 500

Petites bouchées, eventail with cherries, petits gateaux royals, 501

A flan of puff paste, do. of apples,
do. of pears, do. crême pralinée, 502--503

Pâte à choux, petits choux with cream,
almond, petits pains crêmière, 504--505

Madeline with port wine, génoise, darioles, 506--507

Biscatelles, cakes à l’Indienne gauffres aux
pistaches, Allemande, vanilla, red nougat, 508--510

Small cups of nougat, nougat with apricots,
crisp chesnuts amandes croquantes, meringues, 510--512

Turban of meringues, 513

Meringue iced, do. aux pistaches, mushrooms en surprise, 514

Biscuits manqués with almonds, do. with rum, 515

Calf’s foot jelly, and various other jellies, 516--524

Creams, various, 524--528

Bavaroises, various, 529--531

Charlottes, chartreuses, suédoises, bread and
croquettes of apples, 532--536

Apples, pears, and apricots with rice, 537--538

Pommes meringués, miroton, fritters of apples, peaches and apricots, 539--542

Croquettes of rice, cream of rice, macaroni, vermicelli, and cream fried, 543

Beignets soufflés, frangipane, 544

Omelette Célestine, pannequets with preserve, 545

REMOVES, SECOND COURSE, 548--574

SOUFFLES, FOR REMOVES, 575--583

APPENDIX, THE SECOND.

Aspic, 585

Mayonnaise à la gelée, do. fines herbes,
do. ravigote verte, do. ordinaire, do. Provençale, 586--589

Montpellier butter, forcemeat for raised
pie, and of liver for do. sponge cake,
savoy cake in mould, biscuits, to clarify isinglass, 591--592

Iceing, and chocolate iceing, sugar in grain, and to colour it, 593

Vanilla and lemon sugar, to clarify and boil sugar, sugar thread,
594--596

Iced cream of vanilla, coffee, chocolate, pine apple, lemon, orange,
apricot, and strawberry, 597--599

Marmalade of apples, apricot, quince, cherries, strawberries, and
raspberries, 600--602

Jelly of apples, quince, currant and raspberries, and to preserve
tomatas, 602--604

MY TABLE AT HOME.

Plain joints, 637--649

Soups, 652--656

Fish, 656--660

Fresh-water fish, 660--662

Simple hors-d’œuvres, 663

Removes simplified, 664--672

Sauces, 673--675

Economical made dishes, 676--687

Economical made dishes from poultry, 688--691

Game, 692--695

Meat pies and puddings, 696

SECOND COURSE, 698--701

Jellies of liqueurs or spirits, 702

Bohemian jelly cream, 703--710

MISCELLANEOUS.

Dedication to H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge, iii

List of distinguished Personages who have patronized the work, v

Preface, vii

Preface to the Fourth Edition, ix

Description of the composition of this work, xi

Soyer’s new mode of carving, xiv

Directions for carving, xv

How to carve a haunch of venison, xviii

Saddleback of venison, xix

Carving of poultry, xx

Soyer’s Tendon Separator, xxi

Directions for larding, xxv

Meat and poultry, xxvi

Fish, xxvii

Vegetables and fruit, ib.

How everything should be in cooking, xxviii

Braised roast turkey, capon, or fowl, xxx

AMATEUR RECEIPTS--Ris de Veau aux Pistaches à la Dr. Roots, ib.
Potage froid, ou Salade à la Dr. Roots, ib.
Roast Swan à la Norwich, xxxi
Cock a Leekie à la Wemyss, ib.

Bouquet de Gibier, or Sporting Nosegay, xxxii

Olive Branch between France and England, xxxiii

Number of stewpans and other utensils required, xxxiv

Service pagodatique, 606

Table of the wealthy and bill of fare for ten persons, 607

Dîner Lucullusian à la Sampayo, 608

Bill of fare for the same, 609

Dialogue culinaire, 611

Description of the kitchen of the Reform Club, and plan, 613

Reference to the plan, 614

Kitchen of the Reform Club, 615--629

My kitchen at home, 630--632

The bachelor’s kitchen and cottage kitchen, 633

Dinner party at home, 634

Receipts, 637--710

Coffee, 711

Monster bill of fare, 712

Pagodatique entrée dish, 713

Celestial and terrestrial cream of Great Britain, 719

General table of contents } Madame Soyer’s biography } at the end of Criticisms of the press } the book.

ENGRAVINGS.

PAGE

Portrait of the Author 1

Emblematical woodcut iv

A Turkey, prepared according to M. Soyer’s new plan xvi

Carving a haunch of venison xviii

Carving of poultry xxi

The Tendon Separator xxiii

Fowl--one half with the flesh on, and the other half dissected xxiv

Mutton, pork, and lamb cutlets 294

Table of the wealthy 607

Kitchen of the Reform Club 612

Ground plan of ditto 614

Fifteen engravings representing
the fitting-up of the kitchen of the wealthy 610 to 629

Ground plan of my kitchen at home 632

The bachelor’s and the cottage kitchen 634

My table at home 635

Saddle-back of mutton 644

A new mutton cutlet 677

Pagodatique entrée dish 714

Dindonneau à la Nelson, Poularde en diadème, Galantine à la volière, Salade de grouse à la Soyer, Mayonnaise de homard, Croustades of bread for the centre of removes, Croustade for filet de bœuf, Croustades for poularde en diadème, Croustades for turkey à la Nelson, Gateau Britannique, Crême Cerito sultane sylphe à la fille de l’orage, Six jelly moulds, and the Atelettes for Flancs, Removes, &c. 720

Portrait of Madame Soyer, Biography at the end of the book.

THE

GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR.

SAUCES.

The first eight sauces are what we term Foundation sauces; but to facilitate and simplify the making of all kinds of made dishes, I have throughout this work principally referred to the Brown Sauce (No. 1), and the White Sauce (No. 7), which are the two sauces I daily and principally use. The others are of course very good, and sometimes necessary; but being more complicated, I would recommend that they be left to culinary artists, who can easily surmount this difficulty. The two above-mentioned sauces require nothing but a little care and attention; if well made, you will have little trouble with the smaller sauces; for the foundation sauces being well made, the smaller ones require little more than the ingredients directed for them, to give them their proper flavour; but if badly made, it would injure the whole dinner. The above-named sauces will keep four or five days in summer, and a week in winter, by adding a quart of light broth, and boiling them up every day in summer, and every other day in winter.

The following proportions in the foundation sauces are sufficient for a large dinner; but of course where so much is not required, a quarter, or even a smaller quantity can be made.

The colour of the brown sauce ought to be as near as possible to that of the horse-chesnut, whilst the white sauce should be of the colour of rich cream. If possible, nothing but the best flour should ever be used for a roux, which is the French culinary term for thickening; for inferior or new flour loses its strength by boiling, and your sauce would become thin and watery: but if such be the case, you should make more roux, to obviate this difficulty, which must be well mixed with a little cold stock, poured into the sauce, and all boiled together till you have obtained the consistency directed.

No. 1. _Brown Sauce._

Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it all over the bottom, then peel and cut ten large onions in halves, with which cover the bottom; then take two pounds of lean ham cut into slices, which lay over the onions; having ready cut in large slices twenty pounds of leg of beef and veal, put it over the ham, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire; let it remain a quarter of an hour, then with a large wooden spoon move the whole mass round, but keeping the onions still at the bottom. Keeping it over the fire, and stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a light brown glaze, then prick the meat with a fork, take off the stewpan, and put some ashes upon the fire, to deaden its heat; place the stewpan again over it, and let it stand half an hour longer, stirring it twice during that time; the bottom will then be covered with a thick but clear brown glaze; fill it up with fourteen quarts of water or sixteen of light stock (No. 133), then add three turnips, two carrots, four blades of mace, and a bunch of ten sprigs of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; leave it over the fire until it boils, then place it on the corner, add a quarter of a pound of salt; skim off all the fat, and let it simmer for two hours, adding two quarts of cold water by degrees, to clarify it and keep it to its original quantity; then skim it again, and pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin, (by filling up the stewpan again with water you will have then an excellent second stock--for filling up stocks for soups or sauces, this remark also applies to every description of stocks;) if by any misfortune the stock should become thick, clarify it as directed (No. 134).

Then proceed as follows: put one pound of butter into a deep stewpan, (which is the best for this purpose,) place it over the fire, stirring it until it melts; then stir in a pound and a half of best flour, mix it well, and keep stirring it over the fire until it assumes a brownish tinge; then take it from the fire, and keep stirring the roux until partly cold, then pour in the stock quickly, still stirring it; place it over a sharp fire, stirring it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the stove, and let it simmer an hour and a half; by keeping it skimmed, you will take off all the butter, and the sauce will become clear and transparent; place it again over a sharp fire, and keep it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, stirring it round occasionally until cold, and use it where required. Should the colour of the sauce be too pale, add a few spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135).

No. 2. _Espagnole Sauce._

Put half a pound of butter into a large thick-bottomed stewpan, and cover the bottom with good slices of ham about a quarter of an inch in thickness; then cut up two legs of veal into as large slices as possible, (having twenty pounds of meat,) but reserving the nut, or noix, for flanks or entrées, (see No. 565;) put the meat without any of the bone into the stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire for twenty minutes, then shake it round, to prevent the ham sticking to the bottom; cover it over quite close, then put a few ashes upon the fire; put the stewpan again over it, shaking it round occasionally, and once or twice turning the whole mass round together with a wooden spoon until the bottom is covered with a light glaze; prick the meat with a fork to let out the gravy, and with it remove the bottom pieces to the top; replace it upon the fire, shaking it round occasionally until each piece of meat be covered with a clear brown glaze; then fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133); add six onions (in one of which you have stuck six cloves), twelve peppercorns, two blades of mace, two carrots, a good bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; when it boils place it on the corner of the stove, skim it, and add two ounces of salt; let it boil rather quickly, adding two quarts of water by degrees, which will facilitate the abstraction of all the fat in skimming; boil it two hours, then pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin. Make a roux, and terminate your sauce as described in the last.

No. 3. _Brown Sauce from all sorts of meat._

Knowing by experience the difficulty of getting meat for stock in the country, especially veal, I will, for the convenience of families, give a receipt for brown sauce, to be made from rabbits, poultry, trimmings of mutton, beef, pork, or even venison; (but to every ten pounds of meat required, use twelve, as it is not so succulent as beef or veal.) In Scotland I was compelled to use venison even for _beef_-tea; this may appear rather strange, but it is no less true; for although the wealth of my employer would have enabled me to have anything required for my use, money could not purchase it at the time required. The mock beef-tea had of course a wild flavour, but it was still very palatable. Butter the bottom of a thick stewpan, upon which lay ten large onions peeled and cut in halves, then put in what trimmings of meat or poultry you may have, proceed exactly with it as directed for brown sauce (No. 1), but using stock or water in proportion to the quantity of meat; the same precaution must be used likewise with the quantity of roux used for thickening.

No. 4. _For thickening Brown Sauce without making a roux._

Make your stock as directed in either of the three last receipts, (according to circumstances;) if sixteen quarts, bake two pounds of the best flour in a moderate oven, without letting it brown; sift it, and when quite cold mix it into a thin paste with two quarts of cold stock; mix it by degrees, getting it as smooth as possible; have the stock for your sauce boiling in a stewpan upon the fire, into which pour in the paste, keeping it stirred until it boils; then set it at the corner of the stove; let it simmer an hour and a half; skim it well, then place it upon a brisk fire, and add a few chopped mushrooms, boil it very quickly, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; then pass it through a tammie as before, and use it where required.

No. 5. _Velouté._

This sauce has stood for a century as a foundation sauce in the highest class of cookery, and may be admired for its utility, and the delicacy of its flavour; but I have avoided referring to it in almost every receipt on account of the expense attached to it and its tedious fabrication. According to the old system, it requires two days to complete it; one for the simmering of the stock, and the other for the sauce. I have here, however, succeeded in simplifying it, by which the aroma of its component parts are better preserved than when subject to so long boiling.

Put six tablespoonfuls of oil in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it over the bottom, then lay in twenty pounds of veal in large slices, (from knuckles or the under part of legs,) an old fowl, two carrots, six onions, (in one of which you have stuck six cloves,) two blades of mace, four pounds of good ham, and a bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and four bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and place the stewpan upon a sharp fire; when it begins to form large bubbles, stir the whole round with a large wooden spoon; place some ashes upon the fire, and some live charcoal upon the lid of the stewpan; take off the lid occasionally, and stir the meat round, prick it, and when each piece is covered with a light white glaze fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133), or water, add a quarter of a pound of salt, if water, but only three ounces, if stock; when upon the point of boiling, stand it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer for two hours and a half, keeping it well skimmed, and adding a little cold water every now and then, to clarify it and keep its quantity; pass it through a fine cloth into a basin; then in another stewpan have a pound of fresh butter, which melt upon a slow fire, stirring in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes (but do not let it change colour), add the trimmings of half a pottle of mushrooms; stir it round another minute, then take it off the fire and keep stirring it until about half cold; then pour in the stock all at once, keeping it stirred quickly; place it over a sharp fire, and stir it until it boils, then place it at the corner of the fire and let it simmer for two hours, keeping it well skimmed; pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold; when wanted, take the quantity you require, reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon; finish with half a pint of cream or boiled milk.

This sauce, when well made, should be as white as ivory; it is used for removes or entrées of poultry, and may be substituted for white sauce in any of these receipts.

No. 6. _Velouté, a plainer way._

Well oil the bottom of a thick stewpan; cut twelve pounds of veal in dice, (lamb trimmings or rabbits may be used with it,) and two pounds of lean ham also cut in dice; put the whole into the stewpan with three onions, a carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, half a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and set it over a sharp fire, stirring it round occasionally, (the fire should be sharp at first, but very slow at the finish,) until the meat and the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add a pound of flour, mix it well with the meat, then fill up the stewpan with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or water; add three ounces of salt, if with water, but two if with stock, and keep moving it round until upon the point of boiling, when place it on the corner of the stove and let it simmer two hours, keeping it well skimmed; then pass it through a hair sieve into a basin, and again through a tammie into another stewpan; add a few chopped mushrooms; stir it over the fire until it is reduced to a proper consistency, (this sauce is quickly done, and full of flavour;) finish with a pint of cream or boiling milk, and use it as directed in the last.

No. 7. _Veal Stock, White Sauce, or Bechamel._

Cut twelve pounds of knuckles of veal into large dice, with two pounds of lean ham; well butter the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, (some of the bones of the knuckles may be included in the weight of the meat, but not much,) with three large onions, one carrot, a blade of mace, four cloves, and a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in half a pint of water, and place the stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a clear white glaze, then fill it up with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or nine of water; add three ounces of salt, and when upon the point of boiling, place it on the corner of the fire; let it simmer two hours and a half, keeping it skimmed, and adding cold water occasionally, to keep the quantity, then pass it through a fine cloth into a basin;[3] then in another stewpan have one pound of fresh butter, melt it over a slow fire and stir in one pound and a half of flour, stir it over the fire ten minutes, but do not let it change colour; then take it from the fire, stirring it until half cold, then pour in the stock, stirring it quickly all the time; place it over a sharp fire, keep stirring, and boil it for half an hour; add two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and a quart of boiling milk; boil it ten minutes longer, then pass it through a tammie into a basin; stir it occasionally until cold, and use it where required.

This sauce is easily made, full of flavour, and has a very good appearance.

No. 8. _Sauce Allemande; (or German Sauce blanche.)_

Is made from either of the three foregoing sauces. Put three quarts in a stewpan, which place over a sharp fire; reduce it to one third, keeping it stirred the whole time, it will then be very thick; have the yolks of six eggs in a convenient sized basin; mix the sauce with them by degrees, and turn it again into the stewpan; stir it again over the fire until the yolks are quite done, which will take about five minutes; have three pints of stock reserved from the original sauce, with which mix it by degrees; also add a pint of boiling milk, but do not make it too thin; boil it again ten minutes, then pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally until cold.

Use it for entrées or removes of poultry, either hot or cold; but for cold removes of poultry it is best adapted.

_This_ sauce never looks greasy; it will keep four or five days.

No. 9. _Demi-Glace._

Put two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with one quart of consommé (No. 134), one ounce of glaze, four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), place it over the fire, and when boiling place it at the corner, let it simmer very fast, skim it well, and reduce it to a clear light glaze, with sufficient consistence to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon; then put it by in a basin, and use it where directed.

All thin sauces are or will become very much in vogue; they invigorate the appetite without overloading the stomach; and are, consequently, more wholesome; all brown sauces are preferable for meat or game entrées, and in some instances, which you will see, for poultry; but of course the arrangement of your tables would prevent you serving all white or all brown entrées.

For families who have their entrées placed upon the table at the same time as the soup and fish, a thin sauce is much preferable; for if even the sauce should retain the same degree of heat it was served at, it will become much thicker by standing; but a sauce served thick if allowed to remain becomes almost uneatable.

No. 10. _Sauce au jus d’Estragon._

Put two spoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when boiling add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), add a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, place it over the fire and let it reduce very fast until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, then add thirty fresh leaves of tarragon, let it just boil up and it is ready for use. Do not make it too long before you require to use it, or the tarragon would spoil the appearance of the sauce.

No. 11. _Jus d’Estragon clair._

Put two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; place it over the fire, let it boil, then add a quart of consommé (No. 134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), reduce it to half, season with a little sugar and pepper, finish with leaves of tarragon, as in the last.

No. 12. _Sauce au jus de Tomates._

Put an onion in slices into a stewpan with two sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf, half a blade of mace, one clove, four sprigs of parsley, two ounces of lean ham, and one ounce of butter; stir them round over a slow fire until becoming rather brown, then add a spoonful of Chili vinegar, ten of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten of consommé (No. 134), boil altogether about ten minutes, skim it, then add ten spoonfuls of very bright preserved tomates, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a very little scraped garlic; season with a little cayenne pepper and salt; boil altogether five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it again into a stewpan, set it upon the fire, boil and skim it. Use it where directed.

No. 13. _Sauce au jus de Champignons._

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace, (No. 9), into a stewpan with six of consommé (No. 134), and a little sugar; place it upon the fire and reduce it to a clear light demi-glaze; skim it well, then have chopped six good fresh mushrooms, throw them into the sauce, boil them ten minutes, then rub them through a tammie; put it again into a stewpan, warm it, but do not let it boil; after you have passed it, if made in the morning, warm it in your _bain marie_ when required.

No. 14. _Sauce demi-provençale._

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with sixteen of consommé (No. 134), place it over a sharp fire, reduce it to two thirds, skim it, scrape half a clove of garlic with a knife, and put it into the sauce with a little sugar, boil it again two minutes, and it is ready for use.

No. 15. _Sauce au jus piquant._

Put two spoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with three of vinegar; reduce it to half over the fire, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), boil it about a quarter of an hour, skim it well, add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and when again forming a light glaze, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped gherkins, and a little cayenne pepper; it must not boil afterwards.

No. 16. _Sauce au jus d’Echalote._

Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, place it over a sharp fire a couple of minutes, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), boil, skim, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little sugar and cayenne pepper. Serve where directed.

No. 17. _Sauce au jus d’Orange._

Take the rind from an orange as thinly as possible, take off all the pith, and cut it into thin strips, three quarters of an inch in length; boil them five minutes in water, and drain them upon the back of a hair sieve; then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), reduce it over the fire to the consistency of demi-glace, then add the rind of the orange and a little sugar, boil it another five minutes, and when ready to serve add a little of the juice of the orange.

No. 18. _Sauce au jus de Bigarades._

Proceed as directed in the last, but substituting a Seville orange for the sweet one, and boiling the rind ten minutes instead of five.

No. 19. _Jus lié demi Currie._

Peel and cut in slices a large onion, some carrot, turnip, two apples, and two ounces of lean ham; put them into a stewpan with two cloves, a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, parsley, and one ounce of butter; put the stewpan over a slow fire, stir them round occasionally until they become slightly browned, then add a good tablespoonful of the best curry powder, mix it well, then add ten of consommé (No. 134) and eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), boil altogether, then rub it through a tammie; put it in another stewpan, place it again upon the fire, skim it well, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when add a little sugar and cayenne if required, but that must depend entirely upon taste.

No. 20. _Jus lié aux Concombres._

Prepare three middling-sized cucumbers, as directed (No. 103), then put two ounces of butter with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and half one of chopped onions, into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter is melted add the cucumbers, which pass over the fire until tender and slightly tinged; then put them out upon a cloth, put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into another stewpan with six of consommé (No. 134), reduce it until rather thickish; then add the cucumbers, boil them two minutes, season with a saltspoonful of salt, and the half of one of pepper, skim it, and it is ready to serve.

No. 21. _Jus lié aux Truffles._

Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with ten of consommé (No. 134), reduce it until it becomes again a demi-glace, then add six middling-sized French preserved truffles, cut in thin slices, with a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, simmer gently ten minutes, it is then ready to serve.

No. 22. _Jus lié aux Anchois._