Chapter XVII: Part 17

You require two for a roast; they may be stuffed with a good veal stuffing or forcemeat of veal, plain roasted, and served with a little gravy on the dish. Wild rabbits are dressed precisely the same; they may be stuffed with a forcemeat of game instead of veal, both require butter and flour rubbed over them, and will take from twenty to twenty-five minutes roasting.

SAVOURY DISHES FOR SECOND COURSE.

These dishes are divided into three classes, and in England all belong to the second course, but in France they are very frequently served in the first with a dinner of four or six entrées, that is, one or two of them, and are very commendable in the summer months; for breakfasts, luncheons, or suppers, they are invaluable. The large pieces, such as pâtés of game, galantine of turkey, poulardes, boars’ heads, &c., are in smaller dinners placed at the bottom of the table to face the roasts, but in a dinner of six or ten entrées they are served as flancs. All others, such as small galantine of game à la volière, pâtés, chaud froids, salads, mayonnaise, &c., by making them smaller may be served as savoury entremets, in a corner dish.

THE BOAR’S HEAD.

Has in all times ornamented the tables and even the walls of ancient epicures;--a princely dish is a boar’s head, its ferocious appearance giving it such noble dignity when brought to table that it has not only been recognized as one of the first and most recherché dishes of antiquity, but has been immortalized by some of the oldest masters; never has an antique banquet been represented without the introduction of either a black or white servant in the act of bringing or placing a boar’s head upon the table of a wealthy amphytrion. Sneiders, Weenix, and Rubens, have often traced it upon their immortal canvasses, which were eagerly bought by the greatest epicureans to embellish their banqueting halls, and to show their children, from generation to generation, how their great forefathers used to live.

No. 984. _Of the Boar’s Head à l’Antique._

Procure a head with as much of the neck attached to it as possible, singe it well, holding it over a charcoal fire, and keeping it moved, then wipe it with a cloth, scrape well with a knife without scratching the skin, and place it on a cloth upon its skull, open it with your knife from one end to the other, and bone it very carefully without piercing the skin, leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones, bone the two necks of the boar, which cut into long fillets two inches square, place the head in a salting-tub, over which put ten pounds of salt, one of brown sugar, ten bay-leaves, half an ounce of peppercorns, a quarter ditto of cloves, six blades of mace, eight minced onions, twenty sprigs of thyme, ten ditto of winter savoury, and two sliced carrots; mix all well together and leave it eight or ten days, (rubbing the head every other day,) until well salted, then take it out, dry it well upon a cloth, lay the head straight before you, skin side downwards, have ready ten pounds of forcemeat (No. 120,) (but using the flesh of the wild boar instead of veal,[9]) with which cover the interior of the head an inch in thickness at the thinnest parts, roll the fillets cut from the neck in pieces of the rind, (both salted with the head and dried upon a cloth,) place a layer of them lengthwise in the head, with a long piece of fat bacon half an inch square between each, sprinkle a little chopped eschalots, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, and place here and there about a pound of the best preserved truffles, with one of very green pistachios blanched and skinned, and continue filling with forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the whole, finishing by covering forcemeat over; join the two cheeks together with the above in the interior, sew it up with packthread giving it the shape of the head as much as possible and fold it in one or two large thin cloths leaving the ears out and upright; braise as follows: put half a pound of butter in a large braising-pan or stock-pot, over which put fifteen pounds of trimmings of pork or knuckles of veal, eight onions, two carrots, four turnips, eight bay-leaves, a tablespoonful of peppercorns, twelve cloves, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of marjoram, four blades of mace, a bottle of bucellas wine, and four calves’ feet, place it upon a sharp fire stirring it occasionally until the bottom is covered with a clearish glaze, then add six gallons of water and a pound of salt, when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove, skim, and put in the head the ears uppermost and let simmer seven or eight hours, perhaps more, according to the size and age of the boar, but the better plan would be to try it with a trussing-needle; if tender it is done; skim the stock, in which leave the head until half cold, when take it out, partly undo the cloths, and tie it again tighter if possible, and press it in a cover or upon a baking sheet with three flat pieces of wood, one at each side with a weight against them, and one upon the top between the ears, on which place a fourteen pounds weight, let it remain all night until quite cold, when take it out of the cloths, detach the thread it was sewn up with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind the ears, (from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as possible,) it will have a marbled appearance, trim the head a little, setting the ears in a proper position, glaze it with a brownish glaze, form the eyes with a little lard and round pieces of truffles, and the tusks with pâté d’office (No. 1137) baking them, have some very fresh tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and some around, but leaving space to carve, garnish boldly with croutons aspic made from the stock clarified as directed (No. 1360).

A black hog’s head may be dressed exactly the same with the greatest success; pig’s heads also, but more simplified, proceeding as for galantine (No. 998), but having the meat pickled.

A plain pickled boar’s head is also very much thought of, and is a noble dish: singe the head as before, but leaving a few bristles round the eyes and ears, tie it up in a cloth, and braise as before until quite tender. It must not be boned.

The head of the young boar or marcassin is very delicate dressed in either method, so likewise are the legs, necks, shoulders and saddles, pickled and roasted, or braised and served with a poivrade or any other highly-seasoned sauce, cotelettes may also be cut from the necks.

The following is the German method of making a sauce to be eaten with boar’s head: cut the rind (free from pith) of two Seville oranges into very thin strips half an inch in length, which blanch in boiling water, drain them upon a sieve and put them into a basin, with a spoonful of mixed English mustard, four of currant jelly, a little pepper, salt, (mix well together,) and half a pint of good port wine.

No. 985. _Ribs of Beef à la George the Fourth._

Beef, as for entrées, offers but very little variation for second course dishes, the ribs, fillets, and tongue being the only parts to be recommended; and even these are more fit for luncheons or suppers.

Take a piece of ribs of beef with five bones, well covered, but not too fat nor too large, bone it and lard the thick part with long pieces of fat bacon and lean ham or tongue, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, then lay the beef on a dish, with a little pepper, salt, fifty peppercorns, six blades of mace, ten eschalots in slices, half a pint of Madeira, and a little thyme and bay-leaves, let remain thus five days in winter, and but three in summer, turn and rub it every day; when ready to dress clear away the ingredients, roll and tie it up, then put two pounds of lean ham cut in dice in a large stewpan, with two ounces of butter and six large Portugal onions, pass gently over a slow fire, keeping stirred, put in the beef, let it braise gently until becoming a good colour, add water sufficient to reach half way up the beef, with half a pint of Madeira, two calves’ feet, a good bunch of parsley, and twenty pieces of carrots, turned the size and shape of young carrots, let it remain over a slow fire and place some live charcoal upon the lid, let stew gently four or five hours, or until tender, which try with a trussing-needle, but take out the carrots and onions as soon as done; when done take out the feet and skim off all the fat, leave it in the stock till three parts cold, then take it up, place it in a deep dish-cover, take off the string, and strain the stock through a sieve over it, then lay another dish upon the beef, upon which place a twenty-eight pounds weight, and leave it till quite cold, warm the stock and pass it through a napkin, season a little more if required, and place it in a mould upon ice, dress the beef on a dish, glaze it nicely, dress the onions at each end and the carrots in pyramid at each side, cut the stock when firm in croutons, with which garnish the beef tastefully and serve; should the stock be thick clarify it as directed for consommé (No. 134); it is not, however, required to be very clear. To carve it must be cut in slices crosswise.

No. 986. _Ribs of Beef à la Bolingbroke._

Proceed with the beef just as in the last, but put a roll of veal stuffing (No. 127) in the centre, the carrots and onions only being required for flavour are cut in small slices; press your beef as in the last, but thicken the stock with a little roux to form a thin brown sauce, with which make a good sauce piquante (No. 27), which flavour slightly with a little scraped garlic, place the beef in your dish, and the sauce upon ice, when nearly cold and ready to set pour it over, sprinkling the top with grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed some chopped gherkins, it is then ready to serve.

No. 987. _Filet de Bœuf froid à la Bohémienne._

Prepare and lard a fillet of beef as directed for the Removes (No. 417), then put it in a basin in which you have put the following marinade: four onions in slices, one carrot, a head of celery, ten sprigs of thyme, eight bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, and a little parsley, which pass in half a pound of butter in a stewpan over a sharp fire five minutes, then add one quart of vinegar, one of water, two ounces of salt, and half a pound of brown sugar, with twenty peppercorns, ten cloves, and two blades of mace, boil half an hour, but do not put in the fillet till the marinade is cold, let remain a week, and when wanted put it in a braising-pan with one quart of the marinade and two of veal stock or consommé (No. 134), place it over a slow fire, and stew gently for two or three hours, depending upon the size, take it out and place it in a dish to cool, with a little stock over it, skim the remainder and pass it through a napkin into a stewpan, place it upon the fire, reduce it to half, skim it well, add a little clarified isinglass (No. 1372) sufficient to set it as a delicate aspic, six spoonfuls of tomata sauce, and a little red currant jelly; having trimmed and dished the fillet, sauce over, when quite cold garnish with a border of plovers’ eggs, and decorate three silver atelettes, by placing a fine dressed cockscomb at the top, a fine truffle beneath, and a plover’s egg, ornamented with truffles at the bottom, stick them in the fillet, one slanting at each end, and the other upright in the centre, it is then ready to serve.

No. 988. _Filets de Bœuf farcis à la Dr. Johnson._

Trim a nice small fillet about fifteen inches long, and cut off the thickest part of the thin end, then with a long knife cut a deep incision down the thin side, lengthwise, which fill with a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120), with which you have mixed some ox-tongue, truffles, and hard-boiled whites of eggs, cut into good-sized fillets, season with a little chopped eschalots, then cover the fillet with leaves of celery as large as you can get them, over which also lay slices of cooked ham, and envelope the whole in thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up with string, then place it in a braising-pan with two calves’ feet, and half cover it with good stock, place it on a slow fire and stew it two hours and a half, or until tender, which try with a trussing-needle, take it up and leave it on a dish to get cold; then pass the stock through a sieve into a stewpan, and place it upon the ice to set, when firm take off all the fat, wash the top with hot water to take off all the grease, then clarify it as directed for aspic (No. 1360), and pass it through a napkin, trim the fillet at each end lightly, leaving the top untouched, when quite cold have ready a long mould and pour a little of the clarified stock into it half an inch in depth, place it on the ice, and when set ornament it with fillets of truffles, tongue, and whites of hard-boiled eggs, which cover carefully with more of the clarified stock half an inch thick; when quite set lay in the fillet of beef, the top downwards, and fill the mould with the remainder of the jelly; when set turn it out of the mould upon a dish by dipping the mould in warm water, garnish round with stoned olives and the remainder of the clarified stock; you may also stick atelettes on the top, ornamented tastefully. If you cannot procure a mould place the fillet upon a dish, and garnish it tastefully with croutons of aspic.

No. 989. _Cold Ox Tongues._

Dress them as described for flancs in first course, but as soon as they are cooked skin them and cut off nearly all the root, truss it of a good shape by placing the root end against some fixture, and running a fork through the middle of the thin part into the board; when cold trim it. Although I disapprove of ornamented hot tongues for first course, I must confess that a bold design carved upon a fine tongue is pleasing to the eyes on a luncheon or supper-table, and even for dinners in a second course, although seldom used there; the design must be left entirely to the taste of the artist, but one of the most simple and yet tasty designs, is the imitation of a long escalope shell, commencing at the thin end and terminating at the thick; glaze well with light glaze, a sheet of aspic a quarter of an inch in thickness may be laid over it, which will produce a pleasing effect, dress it upon your dish with croutons of aspic round. Tongues for second course, as for the first, are seldom served by themselves, but are usually intended to be eaten with veal or poultry upon the table.

No. 990. _Tongue à la Lancret._

Boil, truss, and trim the tongue as above, dress it on your dish, and have ready the following garniture: boil gently four very fine cauliflowers, not too much done, when cold cut three of them into small bunches, have ready a good sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361) in which you have introduced a little whipped cream, dip each piece of cauliflower in the sauce and lay them on a dish, which set upon the ice, dip also the whole cauliflower in; when the sauce has set firm place the cauliflower upon the root of the tongue with an atelette, dress the bunches round the tongue, variegating them with a few stoned olives; the tongue may also be carved in any design your fancy may dictate and nicely glazed.

No. 991. _Tongue à la Printanière._

Trim and carve the tongue when cold in the shape of a palm-branch; have some aspic (No. 1360) flavoured rather strongly with tarragon, have also twenty young carrots and twenty middle-sized onions, dressed as directed in No. 428, let them get cold in their glaze, place the tongue in the centre of the dish, glaze lightly, dress the vegetables alternately round upon a thin border of fresh butter, and just as the aspic is on the point of setting pour it over the vegetables, which will look quite transparent, set the dish on ice till ready to serve, a few green peas if in season may be thrown over the onions.

No. 992. _Tangue à la Comédienne._

Truss and trim the tongue as usual, carving a comic mask upon it, glaze lightly, and place it upon your dish, have ready prepared the following garniture: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with one of Chili and one of common vinegar, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, a pint of white sauce (No. 7), half ditto of tomata sauce (No. 37), with double the quantity of aspic gelée, reduce over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred till becoming rather thick, then add a spoonful of capers and the same of chopped gherkins, oil a sauté-pan lightly, pour in the sauce, set it on the ice just before serving, turn out on a cloth, cut it in croutons and garnish tastefully.

No. 993. _Cold Ham._

Procure a very nice Westmoreland ham of about nine pounds in weight, soak it ten hours in cold water, and simmer three hours[10] in plenty of water; when done take it out and let remain until cold, when cut off the skin as thinly as possible (but without leaving the marks of it), leaving a piece about two inches and a half broad upon the knuckle, which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat into the form of a shell, branch, or any other design your fancy may direct, glaze lightly, and serve garnished with aspic (No. 1360), chopped and in croutons, or with any of the garnitures directed for the tongues.

No. 994. _Fillet of Veal à la Pontoise._

Procure a small leg of veal from a cow calf, cut off the knuckle so as to leave the fillet about eight inches in height, take the bone from the centre, have ready some good veal stuffing (No. 127) in which you have introduced some lean chopped ham and chopped eschalots, season rather high and put it in the place the bone came from, envelope the fillet with large thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up well with string, wrap it in three or four sheets of oiled paper, place it on a spit and roast three hours before a moderate fire, take up, tie it tight in a napkin; place it on a dish to cool, put another dish upon the top, upon which place a fourteen pounds weight, let remain till cold, then take off the paper and bacon, the fillet will be quite white, cut a slice off the top, glaze the sides, and serve with a thin sauce tartare (No. 38) round it.

No. 995. _Fillet of Veal à la Cardinale._

Cut a fillet as in the last, have also ready boiled a nice ox-tongue very red; you have also prepared about two pounds of good veal forcemeat (No. 120), run about twenty pieces of fat bacon right through the thickest part of the fillet, surround the tongue (trimmed accordingly) with the forcemeat, and place in the centre of the fillet, but not to protrude out of it, surround it with slices of fat bacon and roast it in vegetables (see Removes, No. 417); when done place it on a dish till cold, without taking away the paper and vegetables, when cold take it out; trim and glaze as in the last, dress on your dish, and garnish with croutons of aspic (No. 1360), cut according to taste, surmount it with six small atelettes, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish (No. 380), truffle, and quenelle de veau (No. 120), it is then ready to serve; the atelettes must be fixed upon the rim of the fillet, leaning outwards to give it a graceful appearance, some of them, however, must be taken out to carve.

No. 996. _Loin of Veal au Jambon._

Roast a nice loin in vegetables, in which let it remain till cold, have also a good ham nicely boiled, from which cut twenty-four croutons, the size and shape of small fillets of fowls, dress the veal in the centre and the ham round; fill a large sauté-pan with aspic (No. 1360), which set upon the ice, when firm dip the bottom of the pan in warm water and turn the jelly in one piece over the loin, have also some chopped, with which garnish the ham.

No. 997. _Loin of Veal à la Dame Blanche._

Roast a nice loin of veal as in the last, and when cold have ready the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar in a stewpan with a blade of mace, six cloves, six peppercorns, one bay-leaf, and two ounces of raw ham; boil altogether three minutes, then add two quarts of sauce béchamel (No. 7) and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), reduce till rather thick over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred, pass it through a tammie into a stewpan, which place upon the ice, keep it stirred, and just as it is beginning to set stir in half a pint of whipped cream, pour over the loin, which stand upon the ice till the sauce is firm, cut six mild Indian pickles into pieces of equal sizes, which strew carelessly over the top.

No. 998. _Galantine de Veau au Jambon._

Bone a breast of veal about fifteen inches in length, cut off the end where the shoulder was taken out, and cut out some of the meat in large pieces from the other, so as to leave the skin about half an inch in thickness; then cut the meat in strips the thickness of your finger, and as long as possible, with a corresponding number of strips of fat bacon and cooked ham; have also ready three pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), lay the skin of the breast downwards, open on the dresser, spread some of the forcemeat down the centre half an inch in thickness, leaving good room at the ends and sides, then put a layer of the strips alternately, season with pepper and salt rather high, cover again with forcemeat, then again a layer of the strips, cover the whole with forcemeat, then cover the flaps over and sew it up tight, fold it in a sheet of paper and tie it up in a cloth, place it in a stewpan, cover with good stock (or put it into a stewpan in which you are preparing a stock), place the stewpan over the fire, and when boiling draw it to the corner, where let simmer three hours and a half, then take it up, untie the cloth, and turn the galantine over, from which take off the paper, fold again in the cloth, but be careful to keep the sewn side uppermost, place it in a deep dish surrounded with the stock, place a flat dish upon it, upon which stand a fourteen pounds weight; let remain till quite cold, take it up, trim, draw out the string it was sewn with, cut off the ends, dress it in the centre of your dish, garnish with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in a roll, round outside of which place croutons of the same, and upon the top of the galantine dress smaller croutons of aspic, brown and white alternately. Gherkins quartered lengthwise may be used for the interior of the galantine. The aspic may be made from the stock the galantine is cooked in, by making an addition of two calf’s feet, and clarifying it as directed.

No. 999. _Pâté de Veau au Jambon._

Have ready buttered a large raised pie mould,[11] make also a paste with five pounds of flour mixed with a pint and a half of hot water in which you have dissolved a pound of fresh butter, work the paste very smooth with the hand; when cold line your mould with it three quarters of an inch in thickness, and bringing it more than an inch above the top, reserving the trimmings for a cover, line the inside of the pie with forcemeat (No. 120) half an inch in thickness; then have ready larded with fat bacon four pounds of lean veal, which you have cut in pieces the length of the interior of your pie and two inches square, which place in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and four bay-leaves, and pass them twenty minutes over the fire until well covered with their own glaze; use them when cold, pouring the gravy from them into the pie; have also two pounds of cooked ham, fat and lean, which cut as near as possible of the same size as the veal, lay two pieces of the veal at the bottom of the pie with a piece of ham between, cover with the forcemeat, and proceed in like manner till you have filled the crust, finishing as a dome above the edges of the pie, which raise gracefully with your fingers, and crimp with a pair of paste pincers, after having placed on a cover of paste a quarter of an inch in thickness, making a hole at the top; then lay an oval piece upon the top to form a lid, which ornament with leaves or as fancy directs, bake five hours in a slow oven, then cut off the lid, lay an oval piece of tin (made for that purpose) upon the meat, upon which place a four pounds weight, let remain till the pie is cold, then take out of the mould, glaze the top and garnish with chopped aspic and croutons of the same; serve either with or without the cover. By filling the pie with strong gravy upon taking it from the oven, shaking it well, you will have no occasion to open or press it to carve it, then it must be cut in thin slices through crust and all.

No. 1000. _Cotelettes de Veau à la St. Garat._

Cut six nice cotelettes from a neck of veal, of a nice shape, lard them through and through the fillets with thickish pieces of fat bacon and cooked tongue, place them in a sauté-pan, and cover with a good veal stock, stew gently over a slow fire till tender, lay them flat in a dish, pour their stock over, then lay another dish upon them and press lightly till cold, have six moulds the shape and large enough to contain a cotelette, have also some aspic jelly (No. 1360), pour a little in each mould about a quarter of an inch deep, place them on a dish of ice, and when partly set form a rosette or star upon each, with fillets of hard-boiled white of egg and truffles, cover them with a little more aspic to keep them in their places, and when set firm lay a côtelette upon each, fill the moulds up with aspic and place them on the ice till firm, then dip them in hot water and turn them out on your dish, one to follow the other in a circle, if no moulds place them in a sauté-pan, cover them with aspic, and when set turn them out upon a cloth by dipping the bottom of the pan in warm water, and with the point of a knife cut them out of equal sizes.

No. 1001. _Côtelettes de Veau à la Princesse._

Cut, braise, and press six côtelettes as above, make a good sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and when getting stiff dip each côtelette in so that it is well covered, and place them in a dish upon the ice, dress salad in pyramid in the centre of a flanc dish, against which lay the côtelettes with a small paper frill upon the bone of each, garnish round with croutons of aspic (No. 1360).

No. 1002. _Riz de Veau à la Chinoise._

Lard six small sweetbreads as directed for the entrée (No. 671), which braise, keeping them a very light colour, when cold have some very white aspic (No. 1360), and six small plain round moulds; cover the bottoms of the moulds a quarter of an inch deep with aspic, when partly set garnish round with rows of stoned olives and pickled mushrooms, or pieces of beetroot, boiled carrots, turnips, &c., according to fancy, and make a star or rosette of whites or hard-boiled eggs in the centre, cover with a little more of the aspic and when set firm place in the sweetbreads (topsy-turvy) and fill up with aspic, have some rice well boiled and dry, (see No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter and some pepper and salt, when the butter is melted mix well together and place it to get cold on the ice, dress it in pyramid in the centre of a flanc dish, dip the moulds in warm water, and turn them out in an oval circle round the rice, placing a fine cabbage lettuce upon the top.

No. 1003. _Cotelettes de Mouton braisé aux navets._

Cut, lard, and braise twelve mutton cotelettes as directed (No. 722), press them in their stock lightly like the veal cotelettes, when cold trim them of a nice shape, you have prepared a good poivrade sauce (No. 32), to which you have added half a pint of aspic (No. 1360), and when nearly cold dip in the cotelettes, holding them by the bones, until they are quite enveloped, dress them (when quite cold) upon a thin border of fresh butter, garnish with croutons of aspic, and serve a ragout of turnips (No. 93) cold in the centre.

No. 1004. _Turban de Cotelette de Mouton à la Fermière._

Braise, press, and trim the cotelettes as in the last, but instead of a poivrade reduce a good maître d’hôtel sauce (No. 43), to which add half a pint of cream; when nearly cold dip the cotelettes in the sauce, place them on the ice till somewhat firm, dress them in crown as in the last, then prepare a salad with half a beetroot, one cucumber, one lettuce, season with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, chopped tarragon and chervil; mix all well together, dress in pyramid in the centre of your cotelettes, which garnish with shoes of cucumber and serve.

No. 1005. _Carbonade de Mouton._

Proceed as directed (No. 577), and when the carbonade is cold cut it in slices, which trim and dress as directed in either of the two foregoing receipts.

No. 1006. _Ballottins d’Agneau à la de Bazan._

Take two very white small shoulders of lamb, bone them completely, cut off some of the meat at the thickest part, so as to give only a quarter of an inch in thickness, season the inside with a little mixed spice, pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, have ready some forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the shoulders half an inch in thickness with it, then lay alternately small fillets of cooked tongue, fat bacon, and lamb cut from a loin, season with pepper and salt, cover with the forcemeat, then another layer of the fillets, then forcemeat, fold it over and sew it up, giving it the form of an egg; when both done tie them in napkins and braise in good stock, try when done with a larding-pin, if tender take them out, press all ways alike to keep the shape of eggs, when cold take them out of the napkins, draw out the string and dress the two on one dish in a slanting direction, stick an atelette at each end, have ready some aspic (No. 1360), or it may be made from the stock by adding two calf’s feet to it, cover the bottom of a sauté-pan with some of it, let set on the ice, then arrange fifty pickled mushrooms and fifty stoned olives over, fill up the sauté-pan and place it on the ice, when set cut it in croutons, with which garnish the ballottins.

No. 1007. _Ballottins à la Catalanaise._

Prepare them exactly as in the last, when cold put a quart of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, half a glass of vinegar, and half a pint of consommé, reduce till rather thick, add a little isinglass dissolved in water and pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, place the stewpan upon the fire, and when boiling add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), in which you have introduced a tablespoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil; when the butter is melted finish with a little cream, place it by to cool, and when upon the point of setting pour it over the ballottins, place them upon the ice till the sauce is quite firm, then garnish tastefully with croutons of aspic (No. 1360) and place an atelette at each end.

No. 1008. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Gelée._

Take the chine bones from two necks of lamb and saw the ribs rather short, the length you would require your cotelettes, lard the fillets and roast them in vegetables, do not take them out until quite cold, cut your cotelettes from them of a nice shape, reduce a good demi Provençale sauce (No. 34), with which envelope each cotelette, when cold and the sauce is set dress them in crown upon your dish with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in the centre and croutons of the same round.

No. 1009. _Cotelettes d’Agneau froid à la Princesse._

Prepare two necks of lamb as above, from which cut the cotelettes, glaze, dress them in crown the reverse way, sauce over with a very white mayonnaise sauce (No, 1364), sprinkle chopped gherkins and chopped ham over.

No. 1010. _Galantine de Dinde._

Pluck and draw a turkey, bone it as directed for the poulardes (No. 514), spread it open upon the dresser, have ready some forcemeat as directed (No. 120), spread some down the centre of the turkey, (you have previously turned the legs inside,) half an inch in thickness, have ready some long strips of lean veal the thickness of your finger and the length of the turkey, have also strips of lean cooked ham and fat bacon, lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, season with pepper and salt, then cover with a layer of forcemeat, and so on till you have as much as the bird will contain, finishing with forcemeat, pull the flaps over and sew it up with packthread, tie it up in a napkin and roll it, to press it of the same proportions, put it in a stewpan, with a few vegetables of each sort, and cover with good stock, (or stew it in a veal stock you may be preparing for a white sauce or soup,) stew two hours and a half or till tender, which try with a larding-pin, take it up, untie the string, open the cloth, see that the part where it is sewn up is at the top, wrap it again in the napkin but tie it only at each end, set it in a deep dish surrounded with some of the stock, set another dish upon it and press it till cold with a fourteen pounds weight, make an aspic, using some of the stock it was cooked in as directed (No. 1360), dress the galantine upon a dish, surround it with the aspic chopped and in croutons, and form a star of aspic upon the top, or garnish in any other design your fancy may direct.

No. 1011. _Galantine de Dinde aux foies gras._

Proceed exactly as above, using fillets of rabbits instead of veal, and interspersing eight fat livers of poulardes in the interior.

No. 1012. _Galantine de Dinde à la Volière._

Bone a very young turkey, and proceed exactly as in the last, using two ounces of pistachios, blanched and skinned, and half a pound of truffles cut into thick fillets, instead of the livers, when stuffed and sewn up roll it very tight in a cloth, which also tie very tight, especially at the tail, which requires to be made so much narrower; stew as before, when done take it out of the napkin, see that the part where it is sewn shall be at the bottom, tie it again in the napkin, but only at the ends, lay it in a deep dish surrounded with the stock it was stewed in, place a dish slantwise upon it (to press the tail thinner), upon which place a ten pounds weight; when cold take it from the napkin, draw out the string and place it upon a dish; you have saved one of the legs of the turkey, cut the foot off an inch and a half below the knuckle, with which form the head and neck of the bird; should the leg of the bird not be of sufficient length make it higher by fixing it upon a wooden skewer, place it at the thickest end of the galantine, covering it with some of the forcemeat (which you have blanched and mixed with a little hot glaze), make of the size and as nearly as possible in imitation of the real head and neck, stick the two claws of a convenient-sized lobster in the sides for wings, and with the tail of the lobster form the tail of the bird; surround it with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in rolls, over which lay thin slices of it to imitate waves, and surround with croutons of the same; it is then ready to serve.

No. 1013. _Pâté de Dinde au blanc de Volaille._

Bone a small turkey and line the interior with forcemeat (No. 120), you have prepared a mould as for pâté de veau (No. 999), but using pâte à fine, or pâte à dresser (Nos. 1135, 1136), instead of the pâte there directed, the interior of which also line with forcemeat, trim a nice red ox-tongue (cooked), cut it about the length of the turkey, cover with thickish slices of fat bacon, roll it up in the turkey, which place in the pie, cover with a slice of fat bacon, and again with forcemeat in a dome, finish the pie and bake as directed (No. 999), make a stock with the bones of the turkey, with which make a sauce as directed (No. 57), do not press the meat in the pie, but when three parts cold pour in the sauce, put it in the larder till quite cold, and serve either with or without aspic (No. 1360) on the top.

Galantines may also be made of geese (when young) or pâtés, by following the receipts for the galantines or pâtés of turkey, and adding a little sage and onion to the forcemeat.

Poulardes, capons, and fowls are also used for galantines in either of the ways directed for turkey.

No. 1014. _Galantine de Poularde à la Persane._

Make a galantine as directed (No. 998), have ready some grated crust of bread, with which mix an ounce of chopped pistachios; when the galantine is cold glaze it well, and throw the crumbs and pistachios all over, have ready some aspic (No. 1360), put a little in a plain oval mould, about half an inch in depth, when set form a rosette of hard-boiled whites of eggs and truffles, by cutting them with cutters; cover with a little more jelly, so as to make it an inch and a quarter in thickness, the mould must not be quite so large an oval as the galantine; when the aspic is set turn it out of the mould upon the top of the galantine, and precisely in the centre, dress also croutons of aspic around, and stick an atelette at each end, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish and a small hard-boiled egg, shelled and ornamented with wreaths of truffles.

But galantines may be ornamented in several elegant ways, entirely depending upon the taste of the individual; for instance, the aspic may not only be cut in different shaped croutons, but you may have them variegated, (see aspics;) besides the number of tasty designs which may be worked with egg, truffle, pistachios, anchovies, and various things of that description with which aspics may be ornamented; but in all cases let neatness be your object, and avoid confusion or multiplicity of colours.

With the remains of a galantine of any description you may make an excellent and elegant dish, by cutting twenty pieces the size and shape of fillets of fowl; put some aspic a quarter of an inch in depth into a large sauté-pan, stand it on the ice to set, then form twenty stars, or rosettes, with truffles, lay a piece of the galantine over each, which again cover with aspic; when firm dip the pan in warm water, and turn out its contents upon a clean cloth, cut out each fillet with a cutter dipped in hot water, dress them in crown round your dish upon a thin border of anchovy butter, have ready a salad prepared thus: half a dressed beetroot cut in slices, a sliced cucumber, the white of two nice lettuces, and six fillets of anchovies, season with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, and chopped tarragon and chervil, mix well together, dress it in pyramid in the centre of the dish, dress a border of hard-boiled eggs around upon the top of the galantine, and finish the top with chopped aspic, the galantine may also be cut as above, and dressed plain with the salad in the centre, and garnished round with croutons of aspic.

No. 1015. _Pâté de Volaille aux truffes._

Line a raised pie-mould with pâte fine (No. 1136) as directed, but you will not require so large a mould; line the pie with forcemeat (No. 120), you have previously boned a small fowl, which stuff as for galantine à la volière (No. 1032), seasoning it rather highly, but it will not require sewing up; having filled it, place it in your pie, cover with forcemeat, forming a dome, finish the pie as directed for pâté de veau, bake two hours and a half in a slow oven, take it out, cut off the lid, lay a sheet of tin upon the meat (made for that purpose), upon which place a seven pounds weight, let remain until cold, then take your pie out of the mould and serve with croutons and chopped aspic (No. 1360) upon the top.

No. 1016. _Poulardes à la Mazagran._

Procure two nice poulardes, which roast in vegetables, (with which you have mingled two glasses of sherry,) as for the removes in first course, when done take them up and keep them in the vegetables till quite cold, which will keep them white; you have previously boiled, trussed, and carved a branch of laurel or palm upon a tongue (No. 991), fix an elegant Greek croustade of bread at the head of the dish; you have previously made two quarts of sauce béchamel à la crème (No. 56), very savoury and well reduced; when three parts cold dip the poulardes into it with a fork, take them out quite enveloped with the sauce and put them in the larder till cold, then dress them on your dish their tails to the croustade, their breasts protruding outwards, place the tongue between, the root facing the other end of the dish; you have prepared three atelettes with a crawfish, cockscomb, and truffle upon each, stick one upright in the croustade, and the other two in the root of the tongue, glaze the tongue nicely, and garnish round with bold croutons of aspic (No. 1360) of a very light colour.

No. 1017. _Poulardes à la Banquière._

Prepare two poulardes and tongue as in the last; you have reduced a quart of good demi-glace (No. 9), with a pint of sauce tomate (No. 37) and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), keeping it stirred; when about three parts cold dip in the poulardes, place them on your dish and pour the remainder of the sauce over, let get cold, then place on the tongue and croustade with the atelettes garnished similar to the last; you have previously procured thirty fine cockscombs, thirty button mushrooms, as many small truffles, as many small quenelles (No. 120), and two throat-breads cut in as many slices; when quite cooked have ready a quart of bechamel sauce (No. 7) well reduced with half a pint of aspic, add a gill of whipped cream, and when three parts cold dip the above garniture into it, one piece at a time, and lay them on a dish in the ice, when set rather firm garnish the poulardes very tastefully with them, placing here and there the heart of a young cos lettuce.

No. 1018. _Poulets Printanier à la Santa Cruz._

Procure four spring chickens nicely trussed as for boiling, lard the breast of each with cooked tongue and truffles to form a cross, tie them in oiled paper and roast, leave them in the paper till cold; you have also boiled two Russian ox tongues, split each one in halves lengthwise and trim them neatly to give them the shape of small tongues, prepare also a croustade of bread in the form of a pyramid, eight inches in height and three in width at the bottom, place it in the centre of your dish with an atelette upon the top, place a chicken resting upon the breast, tail uppermost, at each side upon a little cold mashed potatoes, and the tongue at the four corners, pour a red sauce mayonnaise (No. 1363) over the chickens but not to cover the cross, glaze the tongues lightly, and garnish round the edges with rolls of chopped aspic.

No. 1019. _Poulets Printanier à la Princesse Royale._

Prepare your chickens and tongues as in the last, but do not lard them, dish them the same, make a border of plovers’ eggs round, placing little heads of cos lettuce between, sauce over the chickens with a very white mayonnaise sauce and lightly glaze the tongues.

No. 1020. _Poularde à la Guillaume Tell._

Procure a fine poularde, bone it carefully, season the interior with chopped eschalots, pepper, and salt, cover with a little forcemeat (No. 120); you have previously boiled a tongue, when cold cut off the root, trim and cut it in large dice, which mix with forcemeat and stuff the poularde with it, cover over the flaps and sew the poularde in its original shape, tie it up in a napkin and braise it in good stock, to which you have added two calf’s feet, stew two hours and a half, take it up and press it lightly, when cold draw out the packthread, reduce the stock to a demi-glace but keep it as clear as possible, procure a mould large enough to contain the poularde, and an inch higher, place it on the ice, pour in a little of the stock a quarter of an inch in thickness, when it sets throw in some truffles and hard-boiled whites of eggs cut in dice, then lay in the poularde, which cover with the remainder of the stock, when set firm dip the mould in warm water and turn it out on your dish, garnish round with chopped aspic and croutons, and stick three atelettes ornamented upon the top, two slantingly at the ends, and one upright in the centre.

No. 1021. _Chaud froid de Poularde._

Cut a nice capon or poularde into two fillets, two good wings, two legs, and two pieces of back, lay them in lukewarm water one hour to disgorge, wash well, then put them in a stewpan, cover with two quarts of good veal stock, add two middling-sized onions, with a clove stuck in each, a bunch of parsley, and a blade of mace, set on the fire till boiling, then set it on the corner, skim, and let simmer very gently nearly an hour; take them out, and drain them upon a cloth, then in another stewpan make a white roux (No. 7), as for white sauce, with two ounces of butter, and when partly cold add the stock to it; boil well, keeping it stirred all the time; if too thick, add a little more good stock; but it requires to be rather thickish; add a little sugar, four pats of butter, and a gill of cream; put the pieces of poularde in a deep dish, with thirty button onions, which you have previously peeled and stewed in a little white stock, pass the sauce through a tammie over, and let them remain till quite cold, dress a little salad upon a flanc dish, upon which dress the pieces pyramidically, forming small pyramids here and there with the onions, and placing a small sprig of parsley upon each, garnish with croutons of aspic (No. 1360) cut rather bold.

No. 1022. _Chaud froid de Poularde à la Pembroke._

Proceed as above, adding twenty button mushrooms with the onions you have chopped, a good-sized truffle, and a piece of very red tongue, which sprinkle over each piece as you dish them up.

No. 1023. _Chaud froid de Poularde en mayonnaise._

Prepare as above, dress in a bordure upon the salad, sauce over with a mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and place a large truffle, with a cockscomb upon it, at the top.

This dish may also be made with the remains of poulardes from a previous dinner, by cutting them in neat pieces and dipping them into a good bechamel sauce (No. 7), well reduced and half cold; when the sauce is set, proceed as before.

No. 1024. _Filets de Poulardes à la Nesselrode._

Take the four fillets from two poulardes, as directed (No. 792), lay them in a sauté-pan with plenty of butter, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and sauté them gently over a slow fire; when done place them on a dish, with another dish upon them, till quite cold, then with a thin knife split each fillet into two; have ready a quart of good bechamel sauce (No. 7), add a pint of white stock, in which you have stewed the bones from the poulardes, reduce again to a quart, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream; stir over the fire half a minute, then pass it through a tammie; dip each fillet in the sauce, and lay them, when perfectly enveloped, upon a dish till cold; you have previously soaked and boiled two Russian pickled tongues; when cold cut eight pieces from them the size of the fillets, which glaze lightly; dress a border of eggs (hard boiled) upon a flanc dish, which tastefully ornament with small fillets of anchovies upon the top of each piece of egg, and rings of beetroot around, surround it with croutons of aspic, fill the centre with some salad nicely seasoned, dress the fillets and tongue alternately upon the top in crown, and sauce mayonnaise (No. 1361) in the centre.

No. 1025. _Filets de Poulardes à la Ravigote._

Fillet three poulardes and dress them as in the last, but add two ounces of ravigote butter (No. 80) with the sauce you dip them in, dish them the same but omit the tongue, and sauce with a green mayonnaise (No. 1363).

No. 1026. _Petits Canetons en aspic._