Chapter XIV: Book IV (3)

As to the materials of which they make their various articles, it is to be observed, that every thing of the rope kind is formed either from thongs of skins, and sinews of animals, or from the same flaxen substance of which their mantles are manufactured. The sinews often appeared to be of such a length, that it might be presumed they could be of no other animal than the whale. And the same may be said of the bones of which they make their weapons already mentioned; such as their bark-beating instruments, the points of their spears, and the barbs of their harpoons.

Their great dexterity in works of wood may, in some measure, be ascribed to the assistance they receive from iron tools; for, as far as we know, they use no other; at least, we saw only one chisel of bone. And though originally, their tools must have been of different materials, it is not improbable that many of their improvements have been made since they acquired a knowledge of that metal, which is now universally used in their various wooden works. The chisel and the knife are the only forms, as far as we saw, that iron assumes amongst them. The chisel is a long flat piece, fitted into a handle of wood. A stone serves for a mallet, and a piece of fish-skin for a polisher. I have seen some of these chisels that were eight or ten inches long, and three or four inches broad; but in general, they were smaller. The knives are of various sizes; some very large, and their blades are crooked, somewhat like our pruning-knife; but the edge is on the back or convex part. Most of them that we saw, were about the breadth and thickness of an iron hoop; and their singular form marks that they are not of European make. Probably, they are imitations of their own original instruments, used for the same purposes. They sharpen these iron tools upon a coarse slate whetstone; and likewise keep the whole instrument constantly bright.

Iron, which they call _seekemaile_, (which name they also give to tin, and all white metals,) being familiar to these people, it was very natural for us to speculate about the mode of its being conveyed to them. Upon our arrival in the Sound, they immediately discovered a knowledge of traffic, and an inclination for it; and we were convinced afterward, that they had not received this knowledge from a cursory interview with any strangers; but, from their method, it seemed to be an established practice, of which they were fond, and in which they were also skilled. With whom they carry on this traffic, may perhaps admit of some doubt. For though we found amongst them things doubtless of European manufacture, or at least derived from some civilized nation, such as iron and brass, it, by no means, appears that they receive them immediately from these nations. For we never observed the least sign of their having seen ships like ours before, nor of their having traded with such people. Many circumstances serve to prove this almost beyond a doubt. They were earnest in their inquiries, by signs, on our arrival, if we meant to settle amongst them; and if we came as friends: signifying, at the same time, that they gave the wood and water freely, from friendship. This not only proves, that they considered the place as entirely their property, without fearing any superiority; but the inquiry would have been an unnatural one, on a supposition that any ships had been here before, had trafficked, and supplied themselves with wood and water, and had then departed; for in that case, they might reasonably expect we would do the same. They, indeed, expressed no marks of surprise at seeing our ships. But this, as I observed before, may be imputed to their natural indolence of temper, and want of curiosity. Nor were they even startled at the report of a musket; till one day, upon their endeavouring to make us sensible, that their arrows and spears could not penetrate the hide-dresses, one of our gentlemen shot a musket ball through one of them, folded six times. At this they were so much staggered, that they plainly discovered their ignorance of the effect of fire arms. This was very often confirmed afterward, when we used them at their village, and other places, to shoot birds, the manner of which plainly confounded them; and our explanations of the use of shot and ball were received with the most significant marks of their having no previous ideas on this matter.

Some accounts of a Spanish voyage to this coast, in 1774, or 1775, had reached England before I sailed; but the foregoing circumstances sufficiently prove, that these ships had not been at Nootka.[48] Besides this, it was evident that iron was too common here; was in too many hands; and the uses of it were too well known, for them to have had the first knowledge of it so very lately; or, indeed, at any earlier period, by an accidental supply from a ship. Doubtless, from the general use they make of this metal, it may be supposed to come from some constant source, by way of traffic, and that not of a very late date; for they are as dexterous in using their tools as the longest practice can make them. The most probable way, therefore, by which we can suppose that they get their iron, is by trading for it with other Indian tribes, who either have immediate communication with European settlements upon that continent, or receive it, perhaps, through several intermediate nations. The same might be said of the brass and copper found amongst them.

Whether these things be introduced by way of Hudson’s Bay and Canada, from the Indians, who deal with our traders, and so successively across from one tribe to the other; or whether they be brought from the north-western parts of Mexico, in the same manner; perhaps cannot be easily determined. But it should seem, that not only the rude materials, but some articles in their manufactured state, find their way hither. The brass ornaments for noses, in particular, are so neatly made, that I am doubtful whether the Indians are capable of fabricating them. The materials certainly are European; as no American tribes have been found, who knew the method of making brass; though copper has been commonly met with, and, from its softness, might be fashioned into any shape, and also polished. If our traders to Hudson’s Bay and Canada, do not use such articles in their traffic with the natives, they must have been introduced at Nootka from the quarter of Mexico, from whence, no doubt, the two silver table-spoons, met with here, were originally derived. It is most probable, however, that the Spaniards are not such eager traders, nor have formed such extensive connections with the tribes north of Mexico, as to supply them with quantities of iron, from which they can spare so much to the people here.[49]

Of the political and religious institutions established amongst them, it cannot be supposed that we should learn much. This we could observe, that there are such men as chiefs, who are distinguished by the name or title of _Acweek_, and to whom the others are, in some measure, subordinate. But, I should guess, the authority of each of these great men extends no farther than the family to which he belongs, and who own him as their head. These _Acweeks_ were not always elderly men; from which I concluded, that this title came to them by inheritance.

I saw nothing that could give the least insight into their notions of religion, besides the figures before mentioned, called by them _Klumma_. Most probably these were idols; but as they frequently mentioned the word _acweek_, when they spoke of them, we may, perhaps, be authorised to suppose that they are the images of some of their ancestors, whom they venerate as divinities. But all this is mere conjecture; for we saw no act of religious homage paid to them; nor could we gain any information, as we had learned little more of the language, than to ask the names of things, without being able to hold any conversation with the natives, that might instruct us as to their institutions or traditions.

In drawing up the preceding account of the people of this Sound, I have occasionally blended Mr. Anderson’s observations with my own; but I owe every thing to him that relates to their language; and the following remarks are in his own words:

“Their language is, by no means, harsh or disagreeable, farther than proceeds from their using the _k_ and _h_ with more force, or pronouncing them with less softness than we do; and, upon the whole, it abounds rather with what we may call labial and dental, than with guttural sounds. The simple sounds which we have not heard them use, and which, consequently, may be reckoned rare, or wanting in their language, are those represented by the letters _b_, _d_, _f_, _g_, _r_, and _v_. But, on the other hand, they have one, which is very frequent, and not used by us. It is formed, in a particular manner, by clashing the tongue partly against the roof of the mouth, with considerable force; and may be compared to a very coarse or harsh method of lisping. It is difficult to represent this sound by any composition of our letters, unless, somehow, from _lszthl_. This is one of their most usual terminations, though we sometimes found it in the beginning of words. The next most general termination is composed of _tl_; and many words end with _z_ and _ss_. A specimen or two, of each of these, is here put down:

_Opulszthl_, The sun.
_Onulszthl_, The moon.
_Kahsheetl_, Dead.
_Teeshcheetl_, To throw a stone.
_Kooomitz_, A human skull.
_Quahmiss_, Fish roe.

“They seem to take so great a latitude in their mode of speaking, that I have sometimes observed four or five different terminations of the same word. This is a circumstance very puzzling at first to a stranger, and marks a great imperfection in their language.

“As to the composition of it, we can say very little; having been scarcely able to distinguish the several parts of speech. It can only be inferred, from their method of speaking, which is very slow and distinct, that it has few prepositions or conjunctions; and, as far as we could discover, is destitute of even a single interjection, to express admiration or surprise. From its having few conjunctions, it may be conceived, that these being thought unnecessary, as being understood, each single word, with them, will also express a great deal, to comprehend several simple ideas; which seems to be the case. But, for the same reason, the language will be defective in other respects; not having words to distinguish or express differences which really exist, and hence not sufficiently copious. This was observed to be the case in many instances, particularly with respect to the names of animals. The relation or affinity it may bear to other languages, either on this or on the Asiatic continent, I have not been able sufficiently to trace, for want of proper specimens to compare it with, except those of the Esquimaux and Indians about Hudson’s Bay; to neither of which it bears the least resemblance. On the other hand, from the few Mexican words I have been able to procure, there is the most obvious agreement, in the very frequent terminations of the words in _l_, _tl_, or _z_, throughout the language.”[50]

The large vocabulary of the Nootka language, collected by Mr. Anderson, shall be reserved for another place[51], as its insertion here would too much interrupt our narration. At present, I only select their numerals, for the satisfaction of such of our readers as love to compare those of different nations, in different parts of the world:

_Tsawack_, One.
_Akkla_, Two.
_Katsitsa_, Three.
_Mo_, or _moo_, Four.
_Sochah_, Five.
_Nofpo_, Six.
_Atslepoo_, Seven.
_Atlaquolthl_, Eight.
_Tsawaquulthl_, Nine.
_Haeeoo_, Ten.

Were I to affix a name to the people of Nootka, as a distinct nation, I would call them _Wakashians_, from the word _wakash_, which was very frequently in their mouths. It seemed to express applause, approbation, and friendship; for when they appeared to be satisfied, or well pleased with any thing they saw, or any incident that happened, they would, with one voice, call out, _Wakash! wakash!_ I shall take my leave of them with remarking, that, differing so essentially as they certainly do in their persons, their customs, and language, from the inhabitants of the islands in the Pacific Ocean, we cannot suppose their respective progenitors to have been united in the same tribe, or to have had any intimate connection, when they emigrated from their original settlements, into the places where we now find their descendants.

My account of the transactions in Nootka Sound would be imperfect, without adding the astronomical and nautical observations made by us, while the ships were in that station.

_Latitude._

{ Sun 49° 36ʹ 1ʺ,15ʺʹ
The latitude of the observatory{ { South 49 36 8, 36
by { Stars { North 49 36 10, 30
---------------
The mean of these means - 49 36 6, 47 north.

_Longitude._

The longitude, { Twenty sets taken on the } 233° 26ʹ 18ʺ, 7ʺʹ
by { 21st and 23d of March }
lunar observations{ Ninety-three taken at the } 233 18 6, 6
{ observatory }
{ Twenty-four taken on the } 233 7 16, 7
{ 1st, 2d, and 3d of May }
----------------
The mean of these means 233 17 14, 0 east.
But by reducing each set taken before }
we arrived in the sound, and after we }
left it, by the time-keeper, and adding } 233° 17ʹ 30ʺ, 5ʺʹ
them up with those made on the spot, }
the mean of the 137 sets will be }

Longitude by the { Greenwich rate 235° 46ʹ 51ʺ, 0ʺʹ
time-keeper { Ulietea rate 233 59 24, 0

From the results of the last fifteen days’ observations of equal altitudes of the sun, the daily rate of the time-keeper was losing, on mean time, 7ʺ; and the 16th of April, she was too slow for mean time, by 16^h 0^m 58ʺ, 45. There was found an irregularity in her rate, greater than at any time before. It was thought proper to reject the first five days, as the rate in them differed so much from that of the fifteen following; and even in these, each day differed from another more than usual.

_Variation of the Compass._

April { A. M. } Observatory, { 15° 57ʹ 48-1/2ʺ } 15° 49ʹ 25ʺ east.
4th { P. M. } Mean of 4 needles { 15 41 2 }

5th. { A. M. } On board the ship,{ 19 50 49 } 19 44 57-1/2
17th. { P. M. } Mean of 4 needles { 19 38 46 }

The variation found on board the ship ought to be taken for the true one, not only as it agreed with what we observed at sea; but because it was found that there was something ashore that had a considerable effect upon the compasses; in some places more than others. At one spot, on the west point of the sound, the needle was attracted 11-3/4 points from its proper direction.

_Inclination of the dipping Needle._

April
5th. On board with { Marked } End North { 71° 26ʹ 22-1/2ʺ } 71° 40ʹ 22-1/2ʺ
balanced needle { Unmarked } and dipping { 71 54 22-1/2 }

The same needle { Marked } End North { 72 3 45 } 70 0 0
at the observatory { Unmarked } and dipping { 71 56 15 }

18th. Ditto { Marked } End North { 71 58 20 } 72 7 15
{ Unmarked } and dipping { 72 16 10 }

5th. Spare needle at { Marked } End North { 72 32 30 } 72 49 15
the observatory { Unmarked } and dipping { 73 6 0 }

18th. Ditto { Marked } End North { 72 55 0 } 73 11 45
{ Unmarked } and dipping { 73 28 30 }

22d. Spare needle on { Marked } End North { 73 28 38 } 73 11 0
board { Unmarked } and dipping { 72 53 30 }

Hence the mean dip, with both needles, on shore, was 72 32 3-3/4
On board 72 25 41-1/4

This is as near as can be expected; and shows that whatever it was that affected the compasses, whether on board or ashore, it had no effect upon the dipping needles.

_Tides._

It is high-water on the days of the new and full moon at 12^h 20^m. The perpendicular rise and fall eight feet nine inches; which is to be understood of the day tides, and those which happen two or three days after the new and full moon. The night tides, at this time, rise near two feet higher. This was very conspicuous during the spring-tide of the full moon, which happened soon after our arrival; and it was obvious that it would be the same in those of the new moon, though we did not remain here long enough to see the whole of its effect.

Some circumstances that occurred daily, relating to this, deserve particular notice. In the cove where we got wood and water, was a great deal of drift-wood thrown ashore, a part of which we had to remove to come at the water. It often happened that large pieces of trees, which we had removed in the day out of the reach of the then high-water, were found the next morning floated again in our way, and all our spouts for conveying down the water thrown out of their places, which were immoveable during the day tides. We also found that wood which we had split up for fuel, and had deposited beyond the reach of the day-tide, floated during the night. Some of these circumstances happened every night or morning for three or four days, in the height of the spring tides; during which time we were obliged to attend every morning tide, to remove the large logs out of the way of watering.

I cannot say whether the flood-tide falls into the sound from the N. W., S. W., or S. E. I think it does not come from the last quarter; but this is only conjecture, founded upon the following observations: The S. E. gales which we had in the sound, were so far from increasing the rise of the tide, that they rather diminished it; which would hardly have happened, if the flood and wind had been in the same direction.

CHAP. IV.

A STORM AFTER SAILING FROM NOOTKA SOUND.—RESOLUTION SPRINGS A LEAK.—
PRETENDED STRAIT OF ADMIRAL DE FONTE PASSED UNEXAMINED.—PROGRESS ALONG
THE COAST OF AMERICA.—BEERING’S BAY.—KAYE’S ISLAND.—ACCOUNT OF IT.—THE
SHIPS COME TO ANCHOR.—VISITED BY THE NATIVES.—THEIR BEHAVIOUR.—
FONDNESS FOR BEADS AND IRON.—ATTEMPT TO PLUNDER THE DISCOVERY.—
RESOLUTION’S LEAK STOPPED.—PROGRESS UP THE SOUND.—MESSRS. GORE AND
ROBERTS SENT TO EXAMINE ITS EXTENT.—REASONS AGAINST A PASSAGE TO THE
NORTH THROUGH IT.—THE SHIPS PROCEED DOWN IT TO THE OPEN SEA.

Having put to sea on the evening of the 26th, as before related, with strong signs of an approaching storm, these signs did not deceive us. We were hardly out of the sound before the wind, in an instant, shifted from N. E. to S. E. by E., and increased to a strong gale with squalls and rain, and so dark a sky that we could not see the length of the ship. Being apprehensive, from the experience I had since our arrival on this coast, of the wind veering more to the S., which would put us in danger of a lee-shore, we got the tacks on board, and stretched off to the S. W., under all the sail the ships could bear. Fortunately the wind veered no farther southerly than S. E., so that at day-light the next morning we were quite clear of the coast.

The Discovery being at some distance a-stern, I brought to, till she came up, and then bore away, steering N. W., in which direction I supposed the coast to lie. The wind was at S. E., blew very hard, and in squalls, with thick hazy weather. At half past one in the afternoon, it blew a perfect hurricane, so that I judged it highly dangerous to run any longer before it, and, therefore, brought the ships to with their heads to the southward, under the foresails and mizen stay-sails. At this time the Resolution sprung a leak, which, at first, alarmed us not a little. It was found to be under the starboard buttock; where, from the bread-room, we could both hear and see the water rush in, and, as we then thought, two feet under water. But in this we were happily mistaken; for it was afterward found to be even with the water-line, if not above it, when the ship was upright. It was no sooner discovered, than the fish-room was found to be full of water, and the casks in it afloat; but this was, in a great measure, owing to the water not finding its way to the pumps through the coals that lay in the bottom of the room; for after the water was baled out, which employed us till midnight, and had found its way directly from the leak to the pumps, it appeared that one pump kept it under which gave us no small satisfaction. In the evening, the wind veered to the S., and its fury in some degree ceased. On this we set the main sail and two topsails close-reefed, and stretched to the westward; but at eleven o’clock the gale again increased, and obliged us to take in the topsails, till five o’clock the next morning, when the storm began to abate; so that we could bear to set them again.

The weather now began to clear up; and being able to see several leagues round us, I steered more to the northward. At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 50° 1ʹ; longitude 229° 26ʹ.[52] I now steered N. W. by N., with a fresh gale at S. S. E., and fair weather. But at nine in the evening it began again to blow hard and in squalls with rain. With such weather, and the wind between S. S. E. and S. W., I continued the same course till the 30th, at four in the morning, when I steered N. by W., in order to make the land. I regretted very much indeed that I could not do it sooner, for this obvious reason, that we were now passing the place where geographers[53] have placed the pretended strait of Admiral de Fonte. For my own part, I give no credit to such vague and improbable stories, that carry their own confutation along with them. Nevertheless, I was very desirous of keeping the American coast aboard, in order to clear up this point beyond dispute. But it would have been highly imprudent in me to have engaged with the land in weather so exceedingly tempestuous, or to have lost the advantage of a fair wind by waiting for better weather. The same day at noon we were in the latitude of 53° 22ʹ, and in the longitude of 225° 14ʹ.

The next morning, being the first of May, seeing nothing of the land, I steered north-easterly, with a fresh breeze at S. S. E. and S., with squalls and showers of rain and hail. Our latitude at noon was 54° 43ʹ, and our longitude 224° 44ʹ. At seven in the evening, being in the latitude of 55° 20ʹ, we got sight of the land, extending from N. N. E. to E., or E. by S., about twelve or fourteen leagues distant. An hour after I steered N. by W., and at four the next morning, the coast was seen from N. by W. to S. E., the nearest part about six leagues distant.[54]

At this time the northern point of an inlet, or what appeared to be one, bore E. by S. It lies in the latitude of 56°, and from it to the northward, the coast seemed to be much broken, forming bays and harbours every two or three leagues, or else appearances much deceived us. At six o’clock, drawing nearer the land, I steered N. W. by N., this being the direction of the coast, having a fresh gale at S. E., with some showers of hail, snow, and sleet. Between eleven and twelve o’clock, we passed a group of small islands lying under the main land, in the latitude of 56° 48ʹ, and off, or rather to the northward of, the S. point of a large bay. An arm of this bay, in the northern part of it, seemed to extend in toward the N., behind a round elevated mountain that lies between it and the sea. This mountain I called _Mount Edgecumbe_, and the point of land that shoots out from it, _Cape Edgecumbe_. The latter lies in the latitude of 57° 3ʹ, and in the longitude of 224° 7ʹ, and at noon it bore N. 20° W., six leagues distant.

The land, except in some places close to the sea, is all of a considerable height, and hilly; but Mount Edgecumbe far out-tops all the other hills. It was wholly covered with snow; as were also all the other elevated hills; but the lower ones, and the flatter spots, bordering upon the sea, were free from it, and covered with wood.

As we advanced to the north, we found the coast from Cape Edgecumbe to trend to north and north easterly for six or seven leagues, and there form a large bay. In the entrance of that bay are some islands; for which reason I named it the _Bay of Islands_. It lies in the latitude of 57° 20ʹ[55]; and seemed to branch into several arms, one of which turned to the south, and may probably communicate with the bay on the east side of Cape Edgecumbe, and make the land of that cape an island. At eight o’clock in the evening, the cape bore south-east half south; the Bay of Islands N. 53° E.; and another inlet, before which are also some islands, bore N. 52° E., five leagues distant. I continued to steer N. N. W., half W., and N. W. by W., as the coast trended, with a fine gale at N. E., and clear weather.

At half an hour past four in the morning, on the 3d, Mount Edgecumbe bore S. 54° E.; a large inlet, N. 50° E., distant six leagues; and the most advanced point of the land, to the N. W., lying under a very high peaked mountain, which obtained the name of _Mount Fair Weather_, bore N. 32° W. The inlet was named _Cross Sound_, as being first seen on that day, so marked in our calendar. It appeared to branch in several arms, the largest of which turned to the northward. The south east point of this sound is a high promontory, which obtained the name of _Cross Cape_. It lies in the latitude of 57° 57ʹ, and its longitude is 223° 21ʹ. At noon it bore south-east; and the point, under the peaked mountain, which was called _Cape Fair Weather_, north by west a quarter west, distant thirteen leagues. Our latitude at this time was 58° 17ʹ, and our longitude 222° 14ʹ; and we were distant from the shore three or four leagues. In this situation we found the variation of the compass to be from 24° 11ʹ to 26° 11ʹ E.

Here the north-east wind left us, and was succeeded by light breezes from the north-west, which lasted for several days. I stood to the south-west, and west-south-west, till eight o’clock the next morning, when we tacked and stood toward the shore. At noon the latitude was 58° 22ʹ, and the longitude 220° 45ʹ. Mount Fair Weather, the peaked mountain over the cape of the same name, bore N., 63° E.; the shore under it twelve leagues distant. This mountain, which lies in the latitude of 58° 52ʹ, and in the longitude of 222°, and five leagues inland, is the highest of a chain, or rather a ridge of mountains, that rise at the north-west entrance of Cross Sound, and extend to the north-west in a parallel direction with the coast. These mountains were wholly covered with snow, from the highest summit down to the sea-coast, some few places excepted, where we could perceive trees rising, as it were, out of the sea; and which, therefore, we supposed grew on low land, or on islands bordering upon the shore of the continent[56]. At five in the afternoon, our latitude being then 58° 53ʹ, and our longitude 220° 52ʹ; the summit of an elevated mountain appeared above the horizon, being N. 26° W.; and, as was afterward found, forty leagues distant. We supposed it to be Beering’s Mount St. Elias; and it stands by that name in our chart.

This day we saw several whales, seals, and porpoises; many gulls, and several flocks of birds, which had a black ring about the head; the tip of the tail, and upper part of the wings with a black band; and the rest blueish above, and white below. We also saw a brownish duck, with a black or deep blue head and neck, sitting upon the water.

Having but light winds, with some calms, we advanced slowly; so that, on the 6th at noon, we were only in the latitude of 59° 8ʹ, and in the longitude of 220° 19ʹ. Mount Fair Weather bore S., 63° E., and Mount Elias N., 30° W.; the nearest land about eight leagues distant. In the direction of north, 47° E. from this station, there was the appearance of a bay, and an island off the south point of it, that was covered with wood. It is here where I suppose Commodore Beering to have anchored. The latitude, which is 59° 18ʹ, corresponds pretty well with the map of his voyage[57], and the longitude is 221° E. Behind the bay (which I shall distinguish by the name of _Beering’s Bay_, in honour of its discoverer), or rather to the south of it, the chain of mountains before mentioned is interrupted by a plain of a few leagues extent; beyond which the sight was unlimited; so that there is either a level country or water behind it. In the afternoon, having a few hours’ calm, I took this opportunity to sound, and found twenty fathoms’ water over a muddy bottom. The calm was succeeded by a light breeze from the north, with which we stood to the westward; and at noon the next day we were in the latitude of 59° 27ʹ, and the longitude of 219° 7ʹ. In this situation, Mount Fair Weather bore S., 70ʹ E.; Mount St. Elias N. half W.; the westernmost land in sight, N., 52° W.; and our distance from the shore four or five leagues; the depth of water being eighty-two fathoms over a muddy bottom. From this station we could see a bay (circular to appearance) under the high land, with low wood-land on each side of it.

We now found the coast to trend very much to the west, inclining hardly any thing to the north; and as we had the wind mostly from the westward, and but little of it, our progress was slow. On the 9th, at noon, the latitude was 59° 30ʹ, and the longitude 217°. In this situation the nearest land was nine leagues distant; and Mount St. Elias bore N. 30° E., nineteen leagues distant. This mountain lies twelve leagues inland, in the latitude of 60° 27ʹ, and in the longitude of 219°. It belongs to a ridge of exceedingly high mountains, that may be reckoned a continuation of the former; as they are only divided from them by the plain above mentioned. They extend as far to the west as the longitude of 217°; where, although they do not end, they lose much of their height, and become more broken and divided.

At noon, on the 10th, our latitude was 59° 51ʹ, and our longitude 215° 56ʹ, being no more than three leagues from the coast of the continent, which extended from east half north, to north-west half west, as far as the eye could reach. To the westward of this last direction was an island that extended from N., 52° W., to S., 85° W., distant six leagues. A point shoots out from the main toward the north-east end of the island, bearing at this time N., 30° W., five or six leagues distant. This point I named _Cape Suckling_. The point of the cape is low; but within it is a tolerably high hill, which is disjoined from the mountains by low land; so that, at a distance, the cape looks like an island. On the north side of Cape Suckling is a bay that appeared to be of some extent, and to be covered from most winds. To this bay I had some thoughts of going to stop our leak, as all our endeavours to do it at sea had proved ineffectual. With this view I steered for the cape; but as we had only variable light breezes, we approached it slowly. However, before night, we were near enough to see some low land spitting out from the cape to the north-west, so as to cover the east part of the bay from the south wind. We also saw some small islands in the bay, and elevated rocks between the cape and the north-east end of the island. But still there appeared to be a passage on both sides of these rocks; and I continued steering for them all night, having from forty-three to twenty-seven fathoms’ water over a muddy bottom.

At four o’clock next morning, the wind, which had been mostly at north-east, shifted to north. This being against us, I gave up the design of going within the island, or into the bay, as neither could be done without loss of time. I therefore bore up for the west end of the island. The wind blew faint; and at ten o’clock it fell calm. Being not far from the island, I went in a boat, and landed upon it, with a view of seeing what lay on the other side; but finding it farther to the hills than I expected, and the way being steep and woody, I was obliged to drop the design. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, I left a bottle, with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of the ships, and the date of our discovery. And along with it I inclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his Majesty’s coin, of the date 1772. These, with many others, were furnished me by the Reverend Dr. Kaye[58]; and, as a mark of my esteem and regard for that gentleman, I named the island, after him, _Kaye’s Island_. It is eleven or twelve leagues in length, in the direction of north-east and south-west; but its breadth is not above a league, or a league and a half, in any part of it. The south-west point, which lies in the latitude of 59° 49ʹ, and the longitude of 216° 58ʹ, is very remarkable, being a naked rock, elevated considerably above the land within it. There is also an elevated rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, appears like a ruined castle. Toward the sea the island terminates in a kind of bare sloping cliffs, with a beach, only a few paces across to their foot, of large pebble stones, intermixed in some places with a brownish clayey sand, which the sea seems to deposit after rolling in, having been washed down from the higher parts, by the rivulets or torrents. The cliffs are composed of a bluish stone or rock, in a soft or mouldering state, except in a few places. There are parts of the shore interrupted by small valleys and gullies. In each of these a rivulet or torrent rushes down with considerable impetuosity; though it may be supposed that they are only furnished from the snow, and last no longer than till it is all melted. These valleys are filled with pine-trees, which grow down close to the entrance, but only to about half way up the higher or middle part of the island. The woody part also begins every where immediately above the cliffs, and is continued to the same height with the former; so that the island is covered, as it were, with a broad girdle of wood, spread upon its side, included between the top of the cliffy shore, and the higher parts in the centre. The trees however are far from being of an uncommon growth; few appearing to be larger than one might grasp round with his arms, and about forty or fifty feet high; so that the only purpose they could answer for shipping would be to make top-gallant-masts, and other small things. How far we may judge of the size of the trees which grow on the neighbouring continent, it may be difficult to determine. But it was observed that none larger than those we saw growing, lay upon the beach amongst the drift wood. The pine-trees seemed all of one sort; and there was neither the Canadian pine nor cypress to be seen. But there were a few which appeared to be the alder, that were but small, and had not yet shot forth their leaves. Upon the edges of the cliffs, and on some sloping ground, the surface was covered with a kind of turf, about half a foot thick; which seemed composed of the common moss; and the top, or upper part, of the island had almost the same appearance as to colour; but whatever covered it seemed to be thicker. I found amongst the trees some currant and hawberry bushes; a small yellow-flowered violet; and the leaves of some other plants not yet in flower, particularly one which Mr. Anderson supposed to be the _heracleum_ of Linnæus, the sweet herb, which Steller, who attended Beering, imagined the Americans here dress for food, in the same manner as the natives of Kamtschatka.[59]

We saw, flying about the wood, a crow; two or three of the white-headed eagles mentioned at Nootka; and another sort full as large, which appeared also of the same colour, or blacker, and had only a white breast. In the passage from the ship to the shore, we saw a great many fowls sitting upon the water, or flying about in flocks or pairs; the chief of which were a few quebrantahuesses, divers, ducks, or large peterels, gulls, shags, and burres. The divers were of two sorts; one very large, of a black colour, with a white breast and belly; the other smaller, and with a longer and more pointed bill, which seemed to be the common guillemot. The ducks were also of two sorts; one brownish, with a black or deep blue head and neck, and is perhaps the stone-duck described by Steller. The others fly in larger flocks, but are smaller than these, and are of a dirty black colour. The gulls were of the common sort, and those which fly in flocks. The shags were large and black, with a white spot behind the wings as they flew; but probably only the larger water-cormorant. There was also a single bird seen flying about, to appearance of the gull kind, of a snowy white colour, with black along part of the upper side of its wings. I owe all these remarks to Mr. Anderson. At the place where we landed, a fox came from the verge of the wood, and eyed us with very little emotion, walking leisurely, without any signs of fear. He was of a reddish yellow colour, like some of the skins we bought at Nootka, but not of a large size. We also saw two or three little seals off shore; but no other animals or birds, nor the least signs of inhabitants having ever been upon the island.

I returned on board at half past two in the afternoon; and, with a light breeze easterly, steered for the south-west of the island, which we got round by eight o’clock, and then stood for the westernmost land now in sight, which, at this time, bore north-west half north. On the north-west side of the north-east end of Kaye’s Island, lies another island, stretching south-east and north-west about three leagues, to within the same distance of the north-west boundary of the bay above mentioned, which is distinguished by the name of _Comptroller’s Bay_.

Next morning, at four o’clock, Kaye’s Island was still in sight, bearing east a quarter south. At this time, we were about four or five leagues from the main; and the most western part in sight bore north-west half north. We had now a fresh gale at east-south-east; and as we advanced to the north-west, we raised land more and more westerly; and, at last, to the southward of west; so that at noon, when the latitude was 61° 11ʹ, and the longitude 213° 28ʹ, the most advanced land bore from us south-west by west half west. At the same time, the east point of a large inlet bore west-north-west, three leagues distant.

From Comptroller’s Bay to this point, which I name _Cape Hinchingbroke_, the direction of the coast is nearly east and west. Beyond this, it seemed to incline to the southward; a direction so contrary to the modern charts founded upon the late Russian discoveries, that we had reason to expect that, by the inlet before us, we should find a passage to the north; and that the land to the west and south-west was nothing but a group of islands. Add to this, that the wind was now at south-east, and we were threatened with a fog and a storm; and I wanted to get into some place to stop the leak, before we encountered another gale. These reasons induced me to steer for the inlet, which we had no sooner reached, than the weather became so foggy, that we could not see a mile before us, and it became necessary to secure the ships in some place, to wait for a clearer sky. With this view, I hauled close under Cape Hinchingbroke, and anchored before a small cove, a little within the cape, in eight fathoms’ water, a clayey bottom, and about a quarter of a mile from the shore.

The boats were then hoisted out, some to sound, and others to fish. The seine was drawn in the cove; but without success, for it was torn. At some short intervals, the fog cleared away, and gave us a sight of the lands around us. The cape bore south by west half west, one league distant; the west point of the inlet south-west by west, distant five leagues; and the land on that side extended as far as west by north. Between this point and north-west by west, we could see no land; and what was in the last direction seemed to be at a great distance. The westernmost point we had in sight on the north shore, bore north north-west half west, two leagues distant. Between this point and the shore under which we were at anchor is a bay about three leagues deep; on the south-east side of which there are two or three coves, such as that before which we had anchored; and in the middle some rocky islands.

To these islands Mr. Gore was sent in a boat, in hopes of shooting some eatable birds. But he had hardly got to them, before about twenty natives made their appearance in two large canoes; on which he thought proper to return to the ships, and they followed him. They would not venture along-side, but kept at some distance, holloing aloud, and alternately clasping and extending their arms; and, in a short time, began a kind of song exactly after the manner of those at Nootka. Their heads were also powdered with feathers. One man held out a white garment, which we interpreted as a sign of friendship; and another stood up in the canoe, quite naked, for almost a quarter of an hour, with his arms stretched out like a cross, and motionless. The canoes were not constructed of wood, as at King George’s or Nootka Sound. The frame only, being slender laths, was of that substance; the outside consisting of the skins of seals, or of such-like animals. Though we returned all their signs of friendship, and, by every expressive gesture, tried to encourage them to come along-side, we could not prevail. Some of our people repeated several of the common words of the Nootka language, such as _seekemaile_, and _mahook_; but they did not seem to understand them. After receiving some presents, which were thrown to them, they retired toward that part of the shore from whence they came; giving us to understand by signs, that they would visit us again the next morning. Two of them, however, each in a small canoe, waited upon us in the night; probably with a design to pilfer something, thinking we should be all asleep; for they retired as soon as they found themselves discovered.

During the night, the wind was at south south-east, blowing hard and in squalls, with rain, and very thick weather. At ten o’clock next morning, the wind became more moderate, and the weather being somewhat clearer, we got under sail, in order to look out for some snug place, where we might search for and stop the leak; our present station being too much exposed for this purpose. At first, I proposed to have gone up the bay, before which we had anchored; but the clearness of the weather tempted me to steer to the northward, farther up the great inlet, as being all in our way. As soon as we had passed the north-west point of the bay above mentioned, we found the coast on that side to turn short to the eastward. I did not follow it, but continued our course to the north, for a point of land which we saw in that direction.

The natives who visited us the preceding evening, came off again in the morning, in five or six canoes; but not till we were under sail; and although they followed us for some time, they could not get up with us. Before two in the afternoon, the bad weather returned again, with so thick a haze, that we could see no other land besides the point just mentioned, which we reached at half past four, and found it to be a small island, lying about two miles from the adjacent coast, being a point of land, on the east side of which we discovered a fine bay, or rather harbour. To this we plied up, under reefed topsails and courses. The wind blew strong at south-east, and in excessively hard squalls, with rain. At intervals, we could see land in every direction; but, in general, the weather was so foggy, that we could see none but the shores of the bay into which we were plying. In passing the island, the depth of water was twenty-six fathoms, with a muddy bottom. Soon after the depth increased to sixty and seventy fathoms, a rocky bottom; but in the entrance of the bay, the depth was from thirty to six fathoms; the last very near the shore. At length, at eight o’clock, the violence of the squalls obliged us to anchor in thirteen fathoms, before we had got so far into the bay as I intended; but we thought ourselves fortunate that we had already sufficiently secured ourselves at this hour; for the night was exceedingly stormy.

The weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three of the natives from paying us a visit. They came off in two canoes; two men in one, and one in the other; being the number each could carry. For they were built and constructed in the same manner with those of the Esquimaux; only in the one were two holes for two men to sit in; and in the other but one. Each of these men had a stick, about three feet long, with the large feathers or wing of birds tied to it. These they frequently held up to us; with a view, as we guessed, to express their pacific disposition.[60]

The treatment these men met with, induced many more to visit us between one and two the next morning, in both great and small canoes. Some ventured on board the ship; but not till some of our people had stepped into their boats. Amongst those who came on board, was a good-looking middle-aged man, whom we afterward found to be the chief. He was clothed in a dress made of the sea-otter’s skin; and had on his head such a cap as is worn by the people of King George’s Sound, ornamented with sky-blue glass beads, about the size of a large pea. He seemed to set a much higher value upon these, than upon our white glass beads. Any sort of beads, however, appeared to be in high estimation with these people; and they readily gave whatever they had in exchange for them; even their fine sea-otter skins. But here I must observe, that they set no more value upon these than upon other skins, which was also the case at King George’s Sound, till our people set a higher price upon them; and even after that, the natives of both places would sooner part with a dress made of these, than with one made of the skins of wild cats or of martins.

These people were also desirous of iron; but they wanted pieces eight or ten inches long at least, and of the breadth of three or four fingers. For they absolutely rejected small pieces. Consequently they got but little from us; iron having, by this time, become rather a scarce article. The points of some of their spears or lances were of that metal; others were of copper, and a few of bone; of which the points of their darts, arrows, &c. were composed. I could not prevail upon the chief to trust himself below the upper deck; nor did he and his companions remain long on board. But while we had their company, it was necessary to watch them narrowly, as they soon betrayed a thievish disposition. At length, after being about three or four hours alongside the Resolution, they all left her, and went to the Discovery; none having been there before, except one man, who at this time, came from her, and immediately returned thither in company with the rest. When I observed this, I thought this man had met with something there, which he knew would please his countrymen better than what they met with at our ship. But in this I was mistaken, as will soon appear.