Chapter XVII: Book IV (6)

The next morning, we got a breeze easterly, and, what was uncommon with this wind, clear weather, so that we not only saw the volcano, but other mountains both to the E. and W. of it, and all the coast of the main land under them, much plainer than at any time before. It extended from N. E. by N., to N. W. 1/2 W., where it seemed to terminate. Between this point and the islands without it, there appeared a large opening, for which I steered, till we raised land beyond it. This land, although we did not perceive that it joined the continent, made a passage through the opening very doubtful. It also made it doubtful whether the land which we saw to the S. W. was insular or continental; and, if the latter, it was obvious that the opening would be a deep bay or inlet, from which, if once we entered it with an easterly wind, it would not be so easy to get out. Not caring, therefore, to trust too much to appearances, I steered to the southward. Having thus got without all the land in sight, I then steered W., in which direction the islands lay, for such we found this land to be.

By eight o’clock we had passed three of them, all of a good height. More of them were now seen to the westward, the south-westernmost part of them bearing W. N. W. The weather in the afternoon became gloomy, and at length turned to a mist, and the wind blew fresh at E. I therefore, at ten at night, hauled the wind to the southward till day-break, when we resumed our course to the W.

Daylight availed us little, for the weather was so thick that we could not see a hundred yards before us; but as the wind was now moderate, I ventured to run. At half past four, we were alarmed at hearing the sound of breakers on our larboard bow. On heaving the lead, we found twenty-eight fathoms water, and the next cast, twenty-five. I immediately brought the ship to with her head to the northward, and anchored in this last depth, over a bottom of coarse sand, calling the Discovery, she being close to us, to anchor also.

A few hours after, the fog having cleared away a little, it appeared that we had escaped very imminent danger. We found ourselves three quarters of a mile from the N. E. side of an island, which extended from S. by W. 1/2 W. to N. by E. 1/2 E., each extreme about a league distant. Two elevated rocks, the one bearing S. by E., and the other E. by S., were about half a league each from us, and about the same distance from each other. There were several breakers about them, and yet Providence had, in the dark, conducted the ships through between these rocks, which I should not have ventured in a clear day, and to such an anchoring-place, that I could not have chosen a better.

Finding ourselves so near land, I sent a boat to examine what it produced. In the afternoon she returned, and the officer who commanded her reported, that it produced some tolerably good grass and several other small plants, one of which was like purslain, and ate very well, either in soups or as a salad. There was no appearance of shrubs or trees, but on the beach were a few pieces of drift-wood. It was judged to be low water between ten and eleven o’clock; and we found, where we lay at anchor, that the flood-tide came from the E. or S. E.

In the night, the wind blew fresh at S., but was more moderate toward the morning, and the fog partly dispersed. Having weighed at seven o’clock, we steered to the northward, between the island under which we had anchored, and another small one near it. The channel is not above a mile broad; and before we were through it, the wind failed, and we were obliged to anchor in thirty-four fathoms water. We had now land in every direction; that to the S. extended to the S. W., in a ridge of mountains, but our sight could not determine whether it composed one or more islands. We afterward found it to be only one island, and known by the name of _Oonalashka_. Between it and the land to the N., which had the appearance of being a group of islands, there seemed to be a channel in the direction of N. W. by N. On a point which bore W. from the ship, three quarters of a mile distant, were several natives and their habitations. To this place we saw them tow in two whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of them now and then came off to the ships, and bartered a few trifling things with our people; but never remained above a quarter of an hour at a time. On the contrary, they rather seemed shy, and yet we could judge that they were no strangers to vessels, in some degree, like ours. They behaved with a degree of politeness uncommon to savage tribes.

At one o’clock in the afternoon, having a light breeze at N. E., and the tide of flood in our favour, we weighed and steered for the channel above mentioned, in hopes, after we were through, of finding the land trend away to the northward, or, at least, a passage out to sea to the W. For we supposed ourselves, as it really happened, to be amongst islands, and not in an inlet of the continent. We had not been long under sail before the wind veered to the N., which obliged us to ply. The soundings were from forty to twenty-seven fathoms, over a bottom of sand and mud. In the evening, the ebb making against us, we anchored about three leagues from our last station, with the passage bearing N. W.

At daybreak the next morning, we weighed with a light breeze at S., which carried us up the passage, when it was succeeded by variable light airs from all directions; but as there ran a rapid tide in our favour, the Resolution got through before the ebb made. The Discovery was not so fortunate: she was carried back, got into the race, and had some trouble to get clear of it. As soon as we were through, the land on one side was found to trend W. and S. W., and that on the other side to trend N. This gave us great reason to hope that the continent had there taken a new direction, which was much in our favour. Being in want of water, and perceiving that we ran some risk of driving about in a rapid tide, without wind to govern the ship, I stood for a harbour lying on the south side of the passage; but we were very soon driven past it; and to prevent being forced back through the passage, came to an anchor in twenty-eight fathoms water, pretty near the southern shore, out of the reach of the strong tide; and yet, even here, we found it run full five knots and a half in the hour.

While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us, each in a canoe, and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, a young man, overset his canoe, while along-side one of our boats. Our people caught hold of him; but the canoe went adrift, and being picked up by another, was carried ashore. The youth, by this accident, was obliged to come into the ship, and he went down into my cabin upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His dress was an upper garment like a shirt, made of the large gut of some sea-animal, probably the whale, and an under garment of the same shape, made of the skins of birds dressed with the feathers on, and neatly sewed together, the feathered side being worn next his skin. It was mended or patched with pieces of silk-stuff, and his cap was ornamented with two or three sorts of glass beads. His own clothes being wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as much ease as I could have done. From his behaviour, and that of some others, we were convinced that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to some of their customs. But there was something in our ships that greatly excited their curiosity; for such as could not come off in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at them.

At low water, having weighed and towed the ship into the harbour, we anchored there in nine fathoms water, over a bottom of sand and mud; the Discovery got in soon after. A launch was now sent for water, and a boat to draw the seine, but we caught only four trout and a few other small fish.

Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on board such another note as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to me, but it was written in the Russian language, which, as already observed, none of us could read. As it could be of no use to me, and might be of consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks, by making several low bows as he retired.

In walking next day along the shore, I met with a group of natives of both sexes, seated on the grass at a repast consisting of raw fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish as we should a turbot, served up with the richest sauce. By the evening we had completed our water, and made such observations as the time and weather would permit. I have taken notice of the rapidity of the tide without the harbour, but it was inconsiderable within. It was low water at noon; and high water at half past six in the evening; and the water rose, upon a perpendicular, three feet four inches; but there were marks of its sometimes rising a foot higher.

Thick fogs and a contrary wind detained us till the 2d of July, which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of the country and of its inhabitants. The result of our observations will be mentioned in another place. At present, I shall only describe the harbour.

It is called by the natives _Samganoodha_, and is situated on the north side of Oonalashka, in the latitude of 53° 55ʹ, in the longitude of 193° 30ʹ; and in the strait or passage that separates this island from those that lie to the north of it, and whose position before the harbour shelters it from the winds that blow from that quarter. It runs in S. by W., about four miles, and is about a mile broad at the entrance, narrowing toward the head, where its breadth is not above a quarter of a mile, and where ships can lie land-locked, in seven, six, and four fathoms water. Great plenty of good water may be easily got, but not a single stick of wood of any size.

CHAP. VIII.

PROGRESS NORTHWARD, AFTER LEAVING OONALASHKA.—THE ISLANDS OONELLA AND
ACOOTAN.—OONEEMAK.—SHALLOWNESS OF THE WATER ALONG THE COAST.—BRISTOL
BAY.—ROUND ISLAND.—CALM POINT.—CAPE NEWENHAM.—LIEUTENANT WILLIAMSON
LANDS, AND HIS REPORT.—BRISTOL BAY, AND ITS EXTENT.—THE SHIPS OBLIGED
TO RETURN, ON ACCOUNT OF SHOALS.—NATIVES COME OFF TO THE SHIPS.—DEATH
OF MR. ANDERSON; HIS CHARACTER; AND ISLAND NAMED AFTER HIM.—POINT
RODNEY.—SLEDGE ISLAND, AND REMARKS ON LANDING THERE.—KING’S ISLAND.—
CAPE PRINCE OF WALES, THE WESTERN EXTREME OF AMERICA.—COURSE
WESTWARD.—ANCHOR IN A BAY ON THE COAST OF ASIA.

Having put to sea with a light breeze, at south south-east, we steered to the north, meeting with nothing to obstruct us in this course; for, as I observed before, the Island of Oonalashka, on the one side, tended south-west, and on the other, no land was to be seen in a direction more northerly than north-east; the whole of which land was a continuation of the same group of islands which we had fallen in with on the 25th of June. That which lies before Samganoodha, and forms the north-east side of the passage through which we came, is called _Oonella_, and is about seven leagues in circumference. Another island, to the north-east of it, is called _Acootan_, which is considerably larger than Oonella, and hath in it some very high mountains, which were covered with snow. It appeared, that we might have gone very safely between these two islands and the continent, the south-west point of which opened off the north-east point of Acootan, in the direction of north, 60° east; and which proved to be the same point of land we had seen when we quitted the coast of the continent, on the 25th of June, to go without the islands. It is called by the people of these parts _Oonemak_, and lies in the latitude of 54° 30ʹ, and in the longitude of 192° 30ʹ. Over the cape, which, of itself, is high land, is a round elevated mountain, at this time entirely covered with snow.

At six in the evening, this mountain bore east 2° north, and at eight we had no land in sight. Concluding, therefore, that the coast of the continent had now taken a north-easterly direction, I ventured to steer the same course, till one o’clock next morning, when the watch on deck thought they saw land ahead. Upon this we wore, and stood to the south-west for two hours, and then resumed our course to the east-north-east.

At six o’clock land was seen ahead, bearing south-east, about five leagues distant. As we advanced, we raised more and more land, all connected, and seemingly in the direction of our course. At noon, it extended from south-south-west to east; the nearest part five or six leagues distant. Our latitude at this time was 55° 21ʹ, and our longitude 195° 18ʹ. This coast is on the north-west side of the _volcano_ mountain; so that we must have seen it, if the weather had been tolerably clear.

At six in the evening, after having run eight leagues upon an east by north course from noon, we sounded, and found forty-eight fathoms over a bottom of black sand. Being at this time four leagues from the land, the eastern part in sight bore east-south-east, and appeared as a high round hummock, seemingly detached from the main.

Having continued to steer east-north-east all night, at eight in the morning of the 4th the coast was seen from south-south-west, and east by south, and at times we could see high land, covered with snow, behind it. Soon after, it fell calm, and being in thirty fathoms water, we put over hooks and lines, and caught a good number of fine cod-fish. At noon, having now a breeze from the east, and the weather being clear, we found ourselves six leagues from the land, which extended from south by west to east by south. The hummock, seen the preceding evening, bore south-west by south, ten leagues distant. Our latitude was now 55° 50ʹ, and our longitude 197° 3ʹ. A great hollow swell from west-south-west assured us that there was no main land near, in that direction. I stood to the north till six in the afternoon, when the wind having veered to the south-east enabled us to steer east-north-east. The coast lay in this direction, and at noon the next day was about four leagues distant.

On the 6th and 7th, the wind being northerly, we made but little progress. At eight in the evening of the latter, we were in nineteen fathoms water, and about three or four leagues from the coast, which on the 8th extended from south-south-west to east by north, and was all low land, with a ridge of mountains behind it, covered with snow. It is probable, that this low coast extends some distance to the south-west; and that such places as we sometimes took for inlets or bays are only vallies between the mountains.

On the morning of the 9th, with a breeze at north-west, we steered east by north, to get nearer the coast. At noon, we were in the latitude of 57° 49ʹ, and in the longitude of 201° 33ʹ, and about two leagues from the land, which extended from south by east to east-north-east; being all a low coast, with points shooting out in some places, which, from the deck, appeared like islands; but from the mast-head, low land was seen to connect them. In this situation, the depth of water was fifteen fathoms, the bottom a fine black sand.

As we had advanced to the north-east, we had found the depth of water gradually decreasing, and the coast trending more and more northerly. But the ridge of mountains behind it continued to lie in the same direction as those more westerly; so that the extent of the low land between the foot of the mountains and the sea-coast insensibly increased. Both high and low-grounds were perfectly destitute of wood, but seemed to be covered with green turf, except the mountains, which were covered with snow. Continuing to steer along the coast with a gentle breeze westerly, the water gradually shoaled from fifteen to ten fathoms, though we were at the distance of eight or ten miles from the shore. At eight in the evening, an elevated mountain, which had been in sight for some time, bore south-east by east, twenty-one leagues distant. Some other mountains, belonging to the same chain, and much farther distant, bore east 3° north. The coast extended as far as north-east half north, where it seemed to terminate in a point, beyond which we hoped and expected that it would take a more easterly direction. But soon after, we discovered low land extending from behind this point, as far as north-west by west, where it was lost in the horizon; and behind it was high land, that appeared in detached hills.

Thus the fine prospect we had of getting to the north, vanished in a moment. I stood on till nine o’clock, for so long it was light, and then the point above mentioned bore north-east half east, about three miles distant. Behind this point is a river, the entrance of which seemed to be a mile broad; but I can say nothing as to its depth. The water appeared discoloured, as upon shoals, but a calm would have given it the same aspect. It seemed to have a winding direction, through the great flat that lies between the chain of mountains to the south-east and the hills to the north-west. It must abound with salmon, as we saw many leaping in the sea before the entrance; and some were found in the maws of cod which we had caught. The entrance of this river, distinguished by the name of _Bristol River_, lies in the latitude of 58° 27ʹ, and in the longitude of 201° 55ʹ.

Having spent the night in making short boards, at daybreak, on the morning of the 10th, we made sail to the west-south-west, with a gentle breeze at north-east. At eleven o’clock we thought the coast to the north-west terminated in a point, bearing north-west by west; and as we had now deepened the water from nine to fourteen fathoms, I steered for the point, ordering the Discovery to keep ahead. But before she had run a mile, she made a signal for shoal water. At that instant, we had the depth of seven fathoms; and before we could get the ship’s head the other way had less than five; but the Discovery had less than four.

We stood back to the north-east, three or four miles; but finding there was a strong tide or current setting to the west-south-west, that is, toward the shoal, we anchored in ten fathoms, over a bottom of fine sand. Two hours after we had anchored, the water had fallen two feet and upward, which proved that it was the tide of ebb that came from the river above mentioned. We also examined some of the water which we had taken up, and found that it was not half so salt as common sea water. This furnished another proof that we were before a large river.

At four in the afternoon, the wind shifting to south-west, we weighed and stood to the southward, with boats ahead sounding, and passed over the south end of the shoal, in six fathoms water. We then got into thirteen and fifteen; in which last depth we anchored at half past eight; some part of the chain of mountains, on the south-east shore, in sight, bearing south-east half south; and the westernmost land on the other shore north-west. We had, in the course of the day, seen high land, bearing north 60° west, by estimation twelve leagues distant.

Having weighed next morning, at two o’clock, with a light breeze at south-west by west, we plied to windward till nine; when, judging the flood-tide to be now made against us, we came to an anchor in twenty-four fathoms. We lay here till one, when the fog, which had prevailed this morning, dispersing, and the tide making in our favour, we weighed and plied to the south-west. In the evening, the wind was very variable, and we had some thunder. We had heard none before, since our arrival upon the coast; and this was at a great distance.

The wind having settled again in the south-west quarter, in the morning of the 12th, we stood to the north-west, and at ten saw the continent. At noon, it extended from north-east by north, to north-north-west, a quarter west; and an elevated hill bore north-north-west, ten leagues distant. This proved to be an island, which from its figure obtained the name of _Round Island_. It lies in the latitude of 58° 37ʹ, and in the longitude of 200° 6ʹ, and seven miles from the continent. In the evening, at nine, having stood to the northward to within three leagues of the shore, we tacked in fourteen fathoms water, the extremities of the coast bearing east-south-east half east, and west. The wind veering to the north-west enabled us to make a good stretch along shore, till two o’clock in the morning, when we got all at once into six fathoms water, being at this time two leagues from the shore. After edging off a little, our depth gradually increased, and at noon we had twenty fathoms, when the latitude was 58° 13ʹ, and the longitude 199°. Round Island bore north, 5° east; and the west extreme of the coast north, 16° west, seven leagues distant. It is an elevated point, which obtained the name of _Calm Point_, from our having calm weather when off it. To the north-west of Round Island are two or three hillocks, that appeared like islands; and it is possible they may be such; for we had but a distant view of the coast in this place.

During the 14th and 15th, our progress was slow, having little wind, and sometimes so thick a fog, that we could not see the length of the ship. The soundings were from fourteen to twenty-six fathoms; and we had tolerable success in fishing, catching cod, and now and then a few flat fish. At five in the morning of the 16th, the fog having cleared up, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Calm Point bore north, 72° east, and a point eight leagues from it, in the direction of west, bore north, 3° east, three miles distant. Between these two points, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. There is also a bay on the north-west side of this last point, between it and an elevated promontory, which, at this time, bore north, 36° west, sixteen miles distant. At nine, I sent Lieutenant Williamson to this promontory, with orders to land, and see what direction the coast took beyond it, and what the country produced, for from the ships it had but a barren appearance. We found here the flood-tide setting strongly to the north-west along the coast. At noon it was high-water, and we anchored in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues distant from the shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in our favour, we weighed, and drove with it; for there was no wind.

Soon after, Mr. Williamson returned, and reported that he had landed on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found that the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in his Majesty’s name, and left on the hill a bottle, in which were inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which he gave the name of _Cape Newenham_, is a rocky point, of tolerable height, situated in the latitude of 58° 42ʹ, and in the longitude of 197° 36ʹ. Over, or within it, are two elevated hills, rising one behind the other. The innermost, or easternmost, is the highest. The country, as far as Mr. Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor shrub; the hills are naked; but on the lower grounds grew grass and other plants, very few of which were in flower. He saw no other animal but a doe and her fawn, and a dead sea-horse, or cow, upon the beach. Of these animals we had lately seen a great many.

As the coast takes a northerly direction from Cape Newenham, that cape fixes the northern limit of the great bay and gulf, lying before the river Bristol, which, in honour of the admiral Earl of Bristol, was named _Bristol Bay_. Cape _Ooneemak_ is the south limit of this bay, and is distant eighty-two leagues from Cape Newenham, in the direction of south-south-west.

About eight in the evening, a light breeze springing up, which fixed at S. S. E., we steered N. W., and N. N. W., round Cape Newenham, which at noon next day bore S. by E., distant four leagues. At this time the most advanced land to the northward bore N., 30° E.; our depth of water was seventeen fathoms; and the nearest shore 3-1/2 leagues distant. We had but little wind all the afternoon; so that, at ten at night, we had only made three leagues upon a north course.

We steered N. by W. till eight the next morning, when, our depth of water decreasing suddenly to five and seven fathoms, we brought to, till a boat from each ship was sent ahead to sound, and then steered north-east after them; and at noon we had deepened the water to seventeen fathoms. At this time Cape Newenham bore S. 9° E., distant eleven or twelve leagues, the north-east extreme of the land in sight N. 66° E., and the nearest shore about four or five leagues distant. Our latitude, by observation, was 59° 16ʹ.

Between this latitude and Cape Newenham the coast is composed of hills and low land, and appeared to form several bays. A little before one o’clock the boats ahead made the signal for meeting with shoal water. It seems they had only two fathoms, and at the same time the ships were in six fathoms. By hauling a little more to the northward, we continued in much the same depth till between five and six o’clock, when the boats meeting with less and less water, I made the signal to the Discovery, she being then ahead, to anchor, which we did soon after. In bringing our ship up, the cable parted at the clinch, which obliged us to come to with the other anchor. We rode in six fathoms water, a sandy bottom, and about four or five leagues from the main land; Cape Newenham bearing south, seventeen leagues distant. The farthest hills we could see to the north, bore N. E. by E.; but there was low land stretching out from the high land, as far as north by east. Without this was a shoal of sand and stones, that was dry at half ebb.

I had sent the two masters, each in a boat, to sound between this shoal and the coast. On their return, they reported that there was a channel in which they found six and seven fathoms water; but that it was narrow and intricate. At low water we made an attempt to get a hawser round the lost anchor, but did not succeed then. However, being determined not to leave it behind me, as long as there was a probability of recovering it, I persevered in my endeavours, and at last succeeded in the evening of the 20th.

While we were thus employed, I ordered Captain Clerke to send his master in a boat to look for a passage in the south-west quarter. He did so; but no channel was to be found in that direction; nor did there appear to be any way to get clear of these shoals, but to return by the track which had brought us in. For, although by following the channel we were in, we might probably have got farther down the coast, and though possibly this channel might have led us at last to the north, clear of the shoals, still the attempt would have been attended with vast risk; and if we should not have succeeded, there would have been a considerable loss of time that could ill be spared. These reasons induced me to return by the way in which we came, and so get without the shoals.

A number of lunar observations made by Mr. King and myself, on this and the four preceding days, and all reduced to the ship’s present station, gave the longitude 197° 45ʹ 48ʺ

By the time-keeper it was 197 26 48

Our latitude was 59 37 30

Variation by the} } mean 22°
mean of three } A. M. 23° 34ʹ 3ʺ } 56ʹ 51ʺ
compasses, } P. M. 22 19 40 } east.

The northernmost part of the coast that we could see from this station I judged to lie in the latitude of 60°. It seemed to form a low point, which obtained the name of _Shoal Ness_.

The tide of flood sets to the north, and the ebb to the south. It rises and falls, upon a perpendicular, five or six feet; and I reckon it to be high water, on the full and change days, at eight o’clock.

Having weighed at three in the morning on the 21st, with a light breeze at N. N. W., we steered back to the southward, having three boats ahead to direct us. But, notwithstanding this precaution, we found more difficulty in returning than we had in advancing; and at last were obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which had only a depth of five feet. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the country, each in a canoe, came off to the ships, which they approached with great caution; hollowing and opening their arms as they advanced. This we understood was to express their pacific intentions. At length some approached near enough to receive a few trifles that were thrown to them: this encouraged the rest to venture along-side; and a traffic presently commenced between them and our people, who got dresses of skins, bows, arrows, darts, wooden vessels, &c.; our visitors taking in exchange for these whatever was offered them. They seemed to be the same sort of people that we had of late met with all along this coast; wore the same kind of ornaments in their lips and noses; but were far more dirty, and not so well clothed. They appeared to be wholly unacquainted with people like us: they knew not the use of tobacco; nor was any foreign article seen in their possession, unless a knife may be looked upon as such. This, indeed, was only a piece of common iron fitted in a wooden handle, so as to answer the purpose of a knife. They, however, knew the value and use of this instrument so well, that it seemed to be the only article they wished for. Most of them had their hair shaved, or cut short off, leaving only a few locks behind, or on one side. For a covering for the head they wore a hood of skins, and a bonnet which appeared to be of wood. One part of their dress, which we got from them, was a kind of girdle, very neatly made of skin, with trappings depending from it, and passing between the legs, so as to conceal the adjoining parts. By the use of such a girdle, it should seem that they sometimes go naked, even in this high latitude; for they hardly wear it under their other clothing.

The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we had lately seen; only with this difference, that these were broader, and the hole in which the man sits was wider than in any I had before met with. Our boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them; so that they all left us sooner than probably they would otherwise have done.

It was the 22d, in the evening, before we got clear of these shoals, and then I durst not venture to steer to the westward in the night, but spent it off Cape Newenham, and at day-break next morning steered to the north-west, ordering the Discovery to lead. Before we had run two leagues, our depth of water decreased to six fathoms. Fearing, if we continued this course, that we should find less and less water, I hauled to the southward, the wind being at east, a fresh breeze. This course brought us gradually into eighteen fathoms; and having that depth I ventured to steer a little westerly, and afterward west, when we at last found twenty-six fathoms water.

On the 24th at noon we were, by observation, in the latitude of 58° 7ʹ, and in the longitude of 194° 22ʹ. Three leagues to the westward of this station we had twenty-eight fathoms water, and then steered west north-west, the water gradually deepening to thirty-four fathoms. I would have steered more northerly, but the wind having veered in that direction, I could not.

The 25th in the evening, having a very thick fog, and but little wind, we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms water. Our latitude was now 58° 29ʹ, and our longitude 191-1/2° 37ʹ. At six the next morning the weather clearing up a little, we weighed, and, with a small breeze at east, steered north; our soundings being from twenty-eight to twenty-five fathoms. After running nine leagues upon this course, the wind returned back to the north, which obliged us to steer more westerly.

The weather continued, for the most part, foggy, till toward noon on the 28th, when we had a few hours clear sun-shine; during which we made several lunar observations. The mean result of them, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 59° 55ʹ, gave 190° 6ʹ longitude; and the time-keeper gave 189° 59ʹ. The variation of the compass was 18° 40ʹ east. Continuing our westerly course, the water having now deepened to thirty-six fathoms, at four o’clock next morning we discovered land, bearing north-west by west, six leagues distant. We stood toward it till half past ten, when we tacked in twenty-four fathoms water; being at this time a league from the land, which bore north north-west. It was the south-east extremity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of considerable height; on which account it was called _Point Upright_, and lies in the latitude of 60° 17ʹ, and in the longitude of 187° 30ʹ. More land was seen to the westward of the point; and, at a clear interval, we saw another elevated portion of land in the direction of west by south; and this seemed to be entirely separated from the other. Here we met with an incredible number of birds, all as the hawk kind before described.

We had baffling light winds all the afternoon, so that we made but little progress; and the weather was not clear enough to enable us to determine the extent of the land before us. We supposed it to be one of the many islands laid down by Mr. Stæhlin in his map of the New Northern Archipelago; and we expected every moment to see more of them.

At four in the afternoon of the 30th, Point Upright bore north-west by north, six leagues distant. About this time a light breeze springing up at north north-west, we stood to the north-east till four o’clock next morning, when the wind veering to the eastward, we tacked and steered to the north-west. Soon after the wind came to the south-east, and we steered north-east by north; which course we continued, with soundings from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, till next day at noon. At this time we were in the latitude of 60° 58ʹ, and in the longitude of 191°. The wind now veering to north-east, I first made a stretch of ten leagues to the north-west; and then, seeing no land in that direction, I stood back to the eastward about fifteen leagues, and met with nothing but pieces of drift-wood. The soundings were from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms.

Variable light winds, with showers of rain, prevailed all the 2d; but fixing in the south-east quarter, in the morning of the 3d, we resumed our course to the northward. At noon we were, by observation, in the latitude of 62° 34ʹ, our longitude was 192°; and our depth of water sixteen fathoms.

Mr. Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a consumption for more than twelve months, expired between three and four this afternoon. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own profession; and had acquired considerable knowledge of other branches of science. The reader of this Journal will have observed how useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the voyage; and had it pleased God to have spared his life, the public, I make no doubt, might have received from him such communications, on various parts of the natural history of the several places we visited, as would have abundantly shown that he was not unworthy of this commendation.[79] Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the westward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island; and, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very great regard, I named it _Anderson’s Island_. The next day, I removed Mr. Law, the surgeon of the Discovery, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr. Samuel, the surgeon’s first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of the Discovery.

On the 4th, at three in the afternoon, land was seen, extending from north north-east to north-west. We stood on toward it till four o’clock, when, being four or five miles from it, we tacked; and soon after, the wind falling, we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom; being about two leagues from the land, and, by our reckoning, in the latitude of 64° 27ʹ, and in the longitude of 194° 18ʹ. At intervals, we could see the coast extending from east to north-west, and a pretty high island, bearing west by north, three leagues distant.

The land before us, which we supposed to be the continent of America, appeared low next the sea; but, inland, it swelled into hills, which rise, one behind another, to a considerable height. It had a greenish hue, but seemed destitute of wood, and free from snow. While we lay at anchor, we found that the flood-tide came from the east, and set to the west, till between ten and eleven o’clock. From that time, till two the next morning, the stream set to the eastward, and the water fell three feet. The flood ran both stronger and longer than the ebb; from which I concluded, that, besides the tide, there was a westerly current.

At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at south-west, we ran down and anchored, between the island and the continent, in seven fathoms water. Soon after, I landed upon the island, and, accompanied by Mr. King, and some others of the officers, I hoped to have had from it a view of the coast and sea to the westward; but the fog was so thick in that direction, that the prospect was not more extensive than from the ship. The coast of the continent seemed to take a turn to the northward, at a low point named _Point Rodney_, which bore from the island north-west half west, three or four leagues distant; but the high land, which took a more northerly direction, was seen a great way farther.

This island, which was named _Sledge Island_, and lies in the latitude of 64° 30ʹ, and in the longitude of 193° 57ʹ, is about four leagues in circuit. The surface of the ground is composed chiefly of large loose stones, that are, in many places, covered with moss and other vegetables, of which there were above twenty or thirty different sorts, and most of them in flower. But I saw neither shrub nor tree, either upon the island, or on the continent. On a small low spot, near the beach where we landed, was a good deal of wild purslain, pease, long-wort, &c.; some of which we took on board for the pot. We saw one fox; a few plovers, and some other small birds; and we met with some decayed huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately been on the island; and it is pretty clear, that they frequently visit it for some purpose or other. We found, a little way from the shore where we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given to the island. It seemed to be such a one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make use of to convey goods from place to place, over the ice or snow. It was ten feet long, twenty inches broad; and had a kind of rail-work on each side, and was shod with bone. The construction of it was admirable, and all the parts neatly put together; some with wooden-pins, but mostly with thongs or lashings of whale-bone, which made me think it was entirely the workmanship of the natives.

At three o’clock the next morning, we weighed, and proceeded to the north-westward, with a light southerly breeze. We had an opportunity to observe the sun’s meridian altitude for the latitude; and to get altitude, both in the forenoon and afternoon, to obtain the longitude by the time-keeper. As we had but little wind, and variable withal, we advanced but slowly; and, at eight in the evening, finding the ships settle fast toward the land into shoal water, I anchored in seven fathoms, about two leagues from the coast. Sledge Island bore south, 51° east, ten leagues distant; and was seen over the south point of the main land.

Soon after we had anchored, the weather, which had been misty, clearing up, we saw high land extending from north, 40° east, to north, 30° west, apparently disjoined from the coast, under which we were at anchor, and seemed to trend away north-east. At the same time, an island was seen bearing north 81° west, eight or nine leagues distant. It appeared to have no great extent, and was named _King’s Island_. We rode here till eight o’clock next morning, when we weighed, and stood to the north-west. The weather clearing up toward the evening, we got sight of the north-west land, extending from north by west, to north-west by north, distant about three leagues. We spent the night making short boards, the weather being misty and rainy, with little wind; and between four and five in the morning of the 8th, we had again a sight of the north-west land; and, soon after, on account of a calm, and a current driving us toward the shore, we found it necessary to anchor in twelve fathoms water, about two miles from the coast. Over the western extreme is an elevated peaked hill, situated in latitude 65° 36ʹ, and in longitude 192° 18ʹ. A breeze at north-east springing up at eight o’clock, we weighed, and stood to the south-east, in hopes of finding a passage between the coast on which we had anchored on the 6th in the evening, and this north-west land; but we soon got into seven fathoms water, and discovered low land connecting the two coasts, and the high land behind it.

Being now satisfied that the whole was a continued coast, I tacked, and stood away for its north-west part, and came to an anchor under it in seventeen fathoms water. The weather, at this time, was very thick with rain; but, at four next morning, it cleared up, so that we could see the land about us. A high steep rock or island bore west by south; another island to the north of it, and much larger, bore west by north; the peaked hill above mentioned, south east by east; and the point under it, south, 32° east. Under this hill lies some low land, stretching out toward the north-west, the extreme point of which, bore north-east by east, about three miles distant. Over, and beyond it, some high land was seen, supposed to be a continuation of the continent.

This point of land, which I named _Cape Prince of Wales_, is the more remarkable, by being the western extremity of all America hitherto known. It is situated in the latitude of 65° 46ʹ, and in the longitude of 191° 45ʹ. The observations by which both were determined, though made in sight of it, were liable to some small error, on account of the haziness of the weather. We thought we saw some people upon the coast; and probably we were not mistaken, as some elevations, like stages, and others, like huts, were seen at the same place. We saw the same things on the continent within Sledge Island, and on some other parts of the coast.

It was calm till eight o’clock in the morning, when a faint breeze at north springing up, we weighed; but we had scarcely got our sails set, when it began to blow and rain very hard, with misty weather. The wind and current, being in contrary directions, raised such a sea, that it frequently broke into the ship. We had a few minutes’ sunshine at noon; and from the observation then obtained, we fixed the above-mentioned latitude.

Having plied to windward till two in the afternoon, with little effect, I bore up for the island we had seen to the westward, proposing to come to an anchor under it till the gale should cease. But on getting to this land, we found it composed of two small islands, each not above three or four leagues in circuit; and consequently they could afford us little shelter. Instead of anchoring, therefore, we continued to stretch to the westward; and at eight o’clock, land was seen in that direction, extending from north north-west, to west by south, the nearest part six leagues distant. I stood on till ten, and then made a board to the eastward, in order to spend the night.

At day-break in the morning of the 10th, we resumed our course to the west for the land we had seen the preceding evening. At eleven minutes after seven, when the longitude, by the time-keeper, was 189° 24ʹ, it extended from south, 72° west to north, 41° east. Between the south-west extreme, and a point which bore west, two leagues distant, the shore forms a large bay, in which we anchored at ten o’clock in the forenoon, about two miles from the north shore, in ten fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom. The south point of the bay bore south, 58° west; the north point north, 43° east; the bottom of the bay north, 60° west, two or three leagues distant; and the two islands we had passed the preceding day, north, 72° east, distant fourteen leagues.

CHAP. IX.

BEHAVIOUR OF THE NATIVES, THE TSCHUTSKI, ON SEEING THE SHIPS.—INTERVIEW
WITH SOME OF THEM.—THEIR WEAPONS.—PERSONS.—ORNAMENTS.—CLOTHING.—WINTER
AND SUMMER HABITATIONS.—THE SHIPS CROSS THE STRAIT, TO THE COAST OF
AMERICA.—PROGRESS NORTHWARD.—CAPE MULGRAVE.—APPEARANCE OF FIELDS OF
ICE.—SITUATION OF ICY CAPE.—THE SEA BLOCKED UP WITH ICE.—SEA-HORSES
KILLED, AND USED AS PROVISIONS.—THESE ANIMALS DESCRIBED.—DIMENSIONS OF
ONE OF THEM.—CAPE LISBURNE.—FRUITLESS ATTEMPTS TO GET THROUGH THE ICE
AT A DISTANCE FROM THE COAST.—OBSERVATIONS ON THE FORMATION OF THIS
ICE.—ARRIVAL ON THE COAST OF ASIA.—CAPE NORTH.—THE PROSECUTION OF THE
VOYAGE DEFERRED TO THE ENSUING YEAR.

As we were standing into this bay, we perceived on the north shore a village, and some people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have thrown into confusion, or fear. We could plainly see persons running up the country with burdens upon their backs. At these habitations, I proposed to land; and accordingly went with three armed boats, accompanied by some of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each armed with a spontoon, a bow, and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising ground close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down toward the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps, and to make us low bows. We returned the civility; but this did not inspire them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing; for the moment we put the boats ashore, they retired. I followed them alone, without any thing in my hand; and by signs and gestures prevailed on them to stop, and receive some trifling presents. In return for these, they gave me two fox skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. I cannot say whether they or I made the first present; for it appeared to me, that they had brought down with them these things for this very purpose; and that they would have given them to me, even though I had made no return.

They seemed very fearful and cautious; expressing their desire by signs, that no more of our people should be permitted to come up. On my laying my hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back several paces. In proportion as I advanced, they retreated backward; always in the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears; while those on the rising ground stood ready to support them with their arrows. Insensibly, myself, and two or three of my companions, got in amongst them. A few beads distributed to those about us, soon created a kind of confidence; so that they were not alarmed when a few more of our people joined us; and, by degrees, a sort of traffic between us commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, they gave us some of their clothing, and a few arrows. But nothing that we had to offer could induce them to part with a spear, or a bow. These they held in constant readiness, never once quitting them, except at one time, when four or five persons laid theirs down, while they gave us a song and a dance. And even then, they placed them in such a manner, that they could lay hold of them in an instant; and for their security, they desired us to sit down.

The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of them had barbs; and some had a round blunt point. What use these may be applied to I cannot say; unless it be to kill small animals, without damaging the skin. The bows were such as we had seen on the American coast, and like those used by the Esquimaux. The spears, or spontoons, were of iron or steel, and of European or Asiatic workmanship; in which no little pains had been taken to ornament them with carving, and inlayings of brass and of a white metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, had a spear slung over their shoulder by a leathern strap. A leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, contained arrows; and some of these quivers were extremely beautiful; being made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments.