Chapter XVIII: Book IV (7)

Several other things, and in particular their clothing, shewed that they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity, far surpassing what one could expect to find amongst so northern a people. All the Americans we had seen since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people we now were amongst, far from resembling them, had long visages, and were stout and well made. In short, they appeared to be a quite different nation. We saw neither women nor children of either sex; nor any aged, except one man, who was bald-headed; and he was the only one who carried no arms. The others seemed to be picked men, and rather under than above the middle age. The old man had a black mark across his face, which I did not see in any others. All of them had their ears bored; and some had glass beads hanging to them. These were the only fixed ornaments we saw about them; for they wear none to their lips. This is another thing in which they differ from the Americans we had lately seen.

Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins of deer, dogs, seals, &c., and extremely well dressed; some with the hair or fur on; but others without it. The caps were made to fit the head very close; and besides these caps, which most of them wore, we got from them some hoods, made of the skins of dogs, that were large enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be black; but their heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close off; and none of them wore any beard. Of the few articles which they got from us, knives and tobacco were what they valued most.

We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, the floor of which is sunk a little below the surface of the earth. One of them which I examined, was of an oval form, about twenty feet long, and twelve or more high. The framing was composed of wood, and the ribs of whales, disposed in a judicious manner, and bound together with smaller materials of the same sort. Over this framing is laid a covering of strong coarse grass; and that again is covered with earth; so that, on the outside, the house looks like a little hillock, supported by a wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two sides, and one end. At the other end the earth is raised sloping, to walk up to the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, in which I saw nothing but water. And at the end of each house was a vaulted room, which I took to be a store-room. These store-rooms communicated with the house by a dark passage; and with the open air, by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon; but they cannot be said to be wholly underground; for one end reached to the edge of the hill, along which they were made, and which was built up with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower, composed of the large bones of large fish.

The summer huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a point at the top. The framing was of slight poles and bones, covered with the skins of sea-animals. I examined the inside of one. There was a fire-place just within the door, where lay a few wooden vessels, all very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and took up about half the circuit. Some privacy seemed to be observed; for there were several partitions made with skins. The bed and bedding were of deer-skins; and most of them were dry and clean.

About the habitations were erected several stages, ten or twelve feet high; such as we had observed on some parts of the American coast. They were wholly composed of bones; and seemed intended for drying their fish and skins, which were thus placed beyond the reach of their dogs, of which they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, rather large, and of different colours, with long soft hair like wool. They are, probably, used in drawing their sledges in winter. For sledges they have, as I saw a good many laid up in one of the winter huts. It is also not improbable that dogs may constitute a part of their food. Several lay dead that had been killed that morning.

The canoes of these people are of the same sort with those of the northern Americans; some, both of the large and of the small ones, being seen lying in a creek under the village.

By the large fish-bones, and of their sea-animals, it appeared that the sea supplied them with the greatest part of their subsistence. The country appeared to be exceedingly barren; yielding neither tree nor shrub, that we could see. At some distance westward, we observed a ridge of mountains covered with snow that had lately fallen.

At first we supposed this land to be a part of the island of Alaschka, laid down in Mr. Stæhlin’s map, before mentioned. But from the figure of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, and from the longitude, we soon began to think that it was, more probably, the country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia, explored by Beering in 1728. But to have admitted this, without farther examination, I must have pronounced Mr. Stæhlin’s map, and his account of the new Northern Archipelago, to be either exceeding erroneous, even in latitude, or else to be a mere fiction; a judgment which I had no right to pass upon a publication so respectably vouched, without producing the clearest proofs.

After a stay of between two and three hours with these people, we returned to our ships; and soon after, the wind veering to the south, we weighed anchor, stood out of the bay, and steered to the north-east, between the coast and the two islands. The next day, at noon, the former extended from S. 80° W., to N. 84° W.; the latter bore 43° W.; and the peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore S. 36° E.; with land extending from it as far as S. 75° E. The latitude of the ship was 66° 5-1/4ʹ; the longitude 191° 19ʹ; our depth of water twenty-eight fathoms; and our position nearly in the middle of the channel between the two coasts, each being seven leagues distant.

From this station we steered east, in order to get nearer the American coast. In this course the water shoaled gradually, and there being little wind, and all our endeavours to increase our depth failing, I was obliged at last to drop anchor in six fathoms; the only remedy we had left to prevent the ships driving into less. The nearest part of the western land bore W., twelve leagues distant; the peaked hill over Cape Prince of Wales, S. 16° W.; and the northernmost part of the American continent in sight E. S. E., the nearest part about four leagues distant. After we had anchored, I sent a boat to sound, and the water was found to shoal gradually toward the land. While we lay at anchor, which was from six to nine in the evening, we found little or no current; nor could we perceive that the water either rose or fell.

A breeze of wind springing up north, we weighed and stood to the westward, which course soon brought us into deep water; and, during the 12th, we plied to the north, both coasts being in sight; but we kept nearest to that of America.

At four in the afternoon of the 13th, a breeze springing up at south, I steered N. E. by N., till four o’clock next morning, when, seeing no land, we directed our course E. by N.; and between nine and ten, land, supposed to be a continuation of the continent, appeared. It extended from east by south to east by north; and, soon after, we saw more land, bearing N. by E. Coming pretty suddenly into thirteen fathoms water, at two in the afternoon we made a trip off till four, when we stood in again for the land; which was seen, soon after, extending from north to south-east; the nearest part three or four leagues distant. The coast here forms a point, named _Point Mulgrave_, which lies in the latitude of 67° 45ʹ; and in the longitude of 194° 51ʹ. The land appeared very low next the sea; but, a little back, it rises into hills of a moderate height. The whole was free from snow; and to appearance destitute of wood. I now tacked, and bore away N. W. by W.; but soon after, thick weather with rain coming on, and the wind increasing, I hauled more to the west.

Next morning, at two o’clock, the wind veered to S. W. by S., and blew a strong gale, which abated at noon; and the sun shining out, we found ourselves, by observation, in the latitude of 68° 18ʹ. I now steered N. E. till six o’clock the next morning, when I steered two points more easterly. In this run we met with several sea-horses, and flights of birds; some like land-larks, and others seen no bigger than hedge-sparrows. Some shags were also seen; so that we judged ourselves to be not far from the land. But as we had a thick fog, we could not expect to see any; and as the wind blew strong, it was not prudent to continue a course which was most likely to bring us to it. From the noon of this day to six o’clock in the morning of the following, I steered E. by N.; which course brought us into sixteen fathoms water. I now steered N. E. by E., thinking by this course to deepen our water. But, in the space of six leagues, it shoaled to eleven fathoms; which made me think it proper to haul close to the wind, that now blew at west. Toward noon, both sun and moon were seen clearly at intervals, and we got some flying observations for the longitude; which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 70° 33ʹ, gave 197° 41ʹ. The time-keeper, for the same time, gave 198°; and the variation was 35° 1ʹ 22ʺ E. We had afterward reason to believe that the observed longitude was within a very few miles of the truth.

Some time before noon we perceived a brightness in the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable we should meet with ice so soon. And yet the sharpness of the air, and gloominess of the weather, for two or three days past, seemed to indicate some sudden change. About an hour after, the sight of a large field of ice left us no longer in doubt about the cause of the brightness of the horizon. At half past two, we tacked, close to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the latitude of 70° 41ʹ; not being able to stand on any farther. For the ice was quite impenetrable, and extended from west by south to east by north, as far as the eye could reach. Here were abundance of sea-horses; some in the water, but far more upon the ice. I had the thoughts of hoisting out the boats to kill some; but the wind freshening, I gave up the design, and continued to ply to the southward, or rather to the westward; for the wind came from that quarter.

We gained nothing; for on the 18th at noon our latitude was 70° 44ʹ; and we were near five leagues farther to the eastward. We were, at this time, close to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a wall, and seemed to be ten or twelve feet high at least. But farther north, it appeared much higher. Its surface was extremely rugged, and here and there we saw upon it pools of water.

We now stood to the southward, and, after running six leagues, shoaled the water to seven fathoms; but it soon deepened to nine fathoms. At this time the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, we saw land extending from south to south-east by east, about three or four miles distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much encumbered with ice; for which reason it obtained the name of _Icy Cape_. Its latitude is 79° 29ʹ, and its longitude 198° 20ʹ. The other extreme of the land was lost in the horizon; so that there can be no doubt of its being a continuation of the American continent. The Discovery being about a mile astern, and to leeward, found less water than we did, and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also, to prevent separation.

Our situation was now more and more critical. We were in shoal water, upon a lee shore; and the main body of the ice to windward, driving down upon us. It was evident that if we remained much longer between it and the land, it would force us ashore, unless it should happen to take the ground before us. It seemed nearly to join the land to leeward; and the only direction that was open was to the south-west. After making a short board to the northward, I made the signal for the Discovery to tack, and tacked myself at the same time. The wind proved rather favourable, so that we lay up south-west, and south-west by west.

At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering back to west, I tacked to the northward; and at noon the latitude was 70° 6ʹ, and the longitude 196° 42ʹ. In this situation we had a good deal of drift-ice about us; and the main ice was about two leagues to the north. At half past one we got in with the edge of it. It was not so compact as that which we had seen to the northward; but it was too close, and in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. On the ice lay a prodigious number of sea-horses; and as we were in want of fresh provisions, the boats from each ship were sent to get some.

By seven o’clock in the evening, we had received on board the Resolution nine of these animals, which, till now, we had supposed to be sea-cows, so that we were not a little disappointed, especially some of the seamen, who, for the novelty of the thing, had been feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor would they have been disappointed now, nor have known the difference, if we had not happened to have one or two on board, who had been in Greenland, and declared what animals these were, and that no one ever ate of them. But notwithstanding this, we lived upon them as long as they lasted; and there were few on board who did not prefer them to our salt meat.

The fat at first is as sweet as marrow; but in a few days it grows rancid, unless it be salted, in which state it will keep much longer. The lean flesh is coarse, black, and has rather a strong taste, and the heart is nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat when melted yields a good deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps, and their hides, which are very thick, were very useful about our rigging. The teeth, or tusks, of most of them were at this time very small, even some of the largest and oldest of these animals had them not exceeding six inches in length. From this we concluded that they had lately shed their old teeth.

They lie in herds of many hundreds upon the ice, huddling one over the other like swine, and roar or bray very loud; so that in the night, or in foggy weather, they gave us notice of the vicinity of the ice, before we could see it. We never found the whole herd asleep, some being always upon the watch. These, on the approach of the boat, would wake those next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole herd would be awake presently. But they were seldom in a hurry to get away, till after they had been once fired at. Then they would tumble one over the other into the sea, in the utmost confusion. And if we did not, at the first discharge, kill those we fired at, we generally lost them, though mortally wounded. They did not appear to us to be that dangerous animal some authors have described, not even when attacked. They are rather more so to appearance than in reality. Vast numbers of them would follow, and come close up to the boats; but the flash of a musket in the pan, or even the bare pointing of one at them, would send them down in an instant. The female will defend the young one to the very last, and at the expence of her own life, whether in the water or upon the ice. Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she be dead, so that, if you kill one, you are sure of the other. The dam, when in the water, holds the young one between her fore-fins.

Mr. Pennant, in his _Synopsis Quadr._, p. 335[80], has given a very good description of this animal, under the name of _Arctic Walrus_; but I have no where seen a good drawing of one. Why they should be called sea-horses, is hard to say, unless the word be a corruption of the Russian name, _Morse_; for they have not the least resemblance of a horse. This is, without doubt, the same animal that is found in the Gulph of St. Lawrence, and there called sea-cow. It is certainly more like a cow than a horse, but this likeness consists in nothing but the snout. In short, it is an animal like a seal, but incomparably larger. The dimensions and weight of one which was none of the largest, were as follow:

Feet. Inches.

Length from the snout to the tail 9 4 Length of the neck, from the snout to } 2 6 the shoulder-bone } Height of the shoulder 5 0 Length of the fins { Fore 2 4 { Hind 2 6 Breadth of the fins { Fore 1 2-1/2 { Hind 2 0 Snout { Breadth 0 5-1/2 { Depth 1 3 Circumference of the neck close to the ears 2 7 Circumference of the body at the shoulder 7 10 Circumference near the hind fins 5 6 From the snout to the eyes 0 7 Weight of the carcase, without } 854 lb. the head, skin, or entrails } Head 41-1/2 Skin 205

I could not find out what these animals feed upon. There was nothing in the maws of those we killed.

It is worth observing, that, for some days before this date, we had frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the southward. They were of two sorts, the one much larger than the other. The largest were of a brown colour; and, of the small sort, either the duck or drake was black and white, and the other brown. Some said they saw geese also. Does not this indicate that there must be land to the north, where these birds find shelter, in the proper season, to breed, and from whence they were now returning to a warmer climate?

By the time we had got our sea-horses on board, we were, in a manner, surrounded with the ice; and had no way left to clear it, but by standing to the southward, which was done till three o’clock next morning, with a gentle breeze westerly, and, for the most part, thick, foggy, weather. The soundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We then tacked and stood to the N. till ten o’clock, when the wind veering to the northward, we directed our course to the W. S. W. and W. At two in the afternoon, we fell in with the main ice, along the edge of which we kept, being partly directed by the roaring of the sea-horses; for we had a very thick fog. Thus we continued sailing till near midnight, when we got in amongst the loose ice, and heard the surge of the sea upon the main ice.

The fog being very thick, and the wind easterly, I now hauled to the southward; and at ten o’clock the next morning, the fog clearing away, we saw the continent of America, extending from S. by E. to E. by S.; and at noon, from S. W. 1/2 S. to E., the nearest part five leagues distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 69° 32ʹ, and in the longitude of 195° 48ʹ; and as the main ice was at no great distance from us, it is evident, that it now covered a part of the sea, which, but a few days before, had been clear; and that it extended farther to the S. than where we first fell in with it. It must not be understood that I supposed any part of this ice which we had seen to be fixed; on the contrary, I am well assured that the whole was a moveable mass.

Having but little wind, in the afternoon I sent the master in a boat to try if there was any current; but he found none. I continued to steer in for the American land, until eight o’clock, in order to get a nearer view of it, and to look for a harbour, but seeing nothing like one, I stood again to the N., with a light breeze westerly. At this time the coast extended from S. W. to E., the nearest part four or five leagues distant. The southern extreme seemed to form a point, which was named _Cape Lisburne_. It lies in the latitude of 69° 5ʹ, and in the longitude of 194° 42ʹ, and appeared to be pretty high land, even down to the sea. But there may be low land under it, which we might not see, being not less than ten leagues from it. Every where else, as we advanced northward, we had found a low coast, from which the land rises to a middle height. The coast now before us was without snow, except in one or two places, and had a greenish hue. But we could not perceive any wood upon it.

On the 22d, the wind was southerly, and the weather mostly foggy, with some intervals of sunshine. At eight in the evening it fell calm, which continued till midnight, when we heard the surge of the sea against the ice, and had several loose pieces about us. A light breeze now sprung up at N. E., and as the fog was very thick, I steered to the southward, to clear the ice. At eight o’clock next morning, the fog dispersed, and I hauled to the westward. For finding that I could not get to the N. near the coast, on account of the ice, I resolved to try what could be done at a distance from it; and as the wind seemed to be settled at N., I thought it a good opportunity.

As we advanced to the W., the water deepened gradually to twenty-eight fathoms, which was the most we had. With the northerly wind the air was raw, sharp, and cold; and we had fogs, sunshine, showers of snow and sleet, by turns. At ten in the morning of the 26th, we fell in with the ice. At noon it extended from N. W. to E. by N., and appeared to be thick and compact. At this time, we were, by observation, in the latitude of 69° 36ʹ, and in the longitude of 184°, so that it now appeared we had no better prospect of getting to the N. here, than nearer the shore.

I continued to stand to the westward, till five in the afternoon, when we were in a manner embayed by the ice, which appeared high and very close in the N. W. and N. E. quarters, with a great deal of loose ice about the edge of the main field. At this time we had baffling light winds, but it soon fixed at S., and increased to a fresh gale, with showers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and stretched to the eastward; this being the only direction in which the sea was clear of ice.

At four in the morning of the 27th, we tacked and stood to the W., and at seven in the evening we were close in with the edge of the ice, which lay E. N. E. and W. S. W., as far each way as the eye could reach. Having but little wind, I went with the boats to examine the state of the ice. I found it consisting of loose pieces of various extent, and so close together, that I could hardly enter the outer edge with a boat; and it was as impossible for the ships to enter it, as if it had been so many rocks. I took particular notice that it was all pure transparent ice, except the upper surface, which was a little porous. It appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea. For setting aside the improbability, or rather impossibility, of such huge masses floating out of rivers, in which there is hardly water for a boat, none of the productions of the land were found incorporated or fixed in it; which must have unavoidably been the case, had it been formed in rivers, either great or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the field, were from forty to fifty yards in extent to four or five; and I judged that the larger pieces reached thirty feet or more under the surface of the water. It also appeared to me very improbable, that this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone; I should suppose it rather to have been the production of a great many winters. Nor was it less improbable, according to my judgment, that the little that remained of the summer could destroy the tenth part of what now subsisted of this mass, for the sun had already exerted upon it the full influence of his rays. Indeed, I am of opinion that the sun contributes very little toward reducing these great masses. For although that luminary is a considerable while above the horizon, it seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and is not seen for several days in succession. It is the wind, or rather the waves raised by the wind, that bring down the bulk of these enormous masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by undermining and washing away those parts that lie exposed to the surge of the sea. This was evident, from our observing that the upper surface of many pieces had been partly washed away, while the base or under part remained firm for several fathoms round that which appeared above water, exactly like a shoal round an elevated rock. We measured the depth of water upon one, and found it to be fifteen feet, so that the ships might have sailed over it. If I had not measured this depth, I should not have believed that there was a sufficient weight of ice above the surface, to have sunk the other so much below it. Thus it may happen, that more ice is destroyed in one stormy season than is formed in several winters, and an endless accumulation is prevented. But that there is always a remaining store, every one who has been upon the spot will conclude, and none but closet-studying philosophers will dispute.

A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed with the boats, hastened me aboard rather sooner than I could have wished, with one sea-horse to each ship. We had killed more, but could not wait to bring them with us. The number of these animals on all the ice that we had seen is almost incredible. We spent the night standing off and on, amongst the drift ice; and at nine o’clock the next morning, the fog having partly dispersed, boats from each ship were sent for sea-horses. For, by this time, our people began to relish them, and those we had procured before were all consumed. At noon, our latitude was 69° 17ʹ, our longitude 183°; the variation, by the morning azimuths, 25° 56ʹ E.; and the depth of water twenty-five fathoms. At two o’clock, having got on board as much marine beef as was thought necessary, and the wind freshening at S. S. E., we took on board the boats, and stretched to the S. W.; but not being able to weather the ice upon this tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the E., till eight o’clock, then resumed our course to the S. W., and before midnight were obliged to tack again, on account of the ice. Soon after, the wind shifted to the N. W., blowing a stiff gale, and we stretched to the S. W., close hauled.

In the morning of the 29th, we saw the main ice to the northward, and not long after, land bearing south-west by west. Presently after this, more land showed itself, bearing west. It showed itself in two hills like islands, but afterward the whole appeared connected. As we approached the land, the depth of water decreased very fast; so that at noon, when we tacked, we had only eight fathoms; being three miles from the coast, which extended from south, 30° east, to north, 60° west. This last extreme terminated in a bluff point, being one of the hills above mentioned.

The weather at this time was very hazy, with drizzling rain; but soon after, it cleared; especially to the southward, westward, and northward. This enabled us to have a pretty good view of the coast; which, in every respect, is like the opposite one of America; that is, low land next the sea, with elevated land farther back. It was perfectly destitute of wood, and even snow; but was, probably, covered with a mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. In the low ground lying between the high land and the sea, was a lake, extending to the south-east, farther than we could see. As we stood off, the westernmost of the two hills before mentioned came open off the bluff point, in the direction of north-west. It had the appearance of being an island; but it might be joined to the other by low land, though we did not see it. And if so, there is a two-fold point, with a bay between them. This point, which is steep and rocky, was named _Cape North_. Its situation is nearly in the latitude of 68° 56ʹ, and in the longitude of 180° 51ʹ. The coast beyond it must take a very westerly direction; for we could see no land to the northward of it, though the horizon was there pretty clear. Being desirous of seeing more of the coast to the westward, we tacked again, at two o’clock in the afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape North. But finding we could not, the wind freshening, a thick fog coming on, with much snow, and being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, I gave up the design I had formed of plying to the westward, and stood offshore again.

The season was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost is expected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think it consistent with prudence, to make any farther attempts to find a passage into the Atlantic this year, in any direction; so little was the prospect of succeeding. My attention was now directed toward finding out some place where we might supply ourselves with wood and water; and the object uppermost in my thoughts was, how I should spend the winter, so as to make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, at the same time, be in a condition to return to the north, in farther search of a passage, the ensuing summer.

CHAP. X.

RETURN FROM CAPE NORTH, ALONG THE COAST OF ASIA.—VIEWS OF THE COUNTRY.—
BURNEY’S ISLAND.—CAPE SERDZE KAMEN, THE NORTHERN LIMIT OF BEERING’S
VOYAGE.—PASS THE EAST CAPE OF ASIA.—DESCRIPTION AND SITUATION OF IT.—
OBSERVATIONS ON MULLER.—THE TSCHUTSKI.—BAY OF ST. LAURENCE.—TWO OTHER
BAYS, AND HABITATIONS OF THE NATIVES.—BEERING’S CAPE TSCHUKOTSKOI.—
BEERING’S POSITION OF THIS COAST ACCURATE.—ISLAND OF ST. LAURENCE.—
PASS TO THE AMERICAN COAST.—CAPE DARBY.—BALD HEAD.—CAPE DENBIGH, ON A
PENINSULA.—BESBOROUGH ISLAND.—WOOD AND WATER PROCURED.—VISITS FROM THE
NATIVES.—THEIR PERSONS AND HABITATIONS.—PRODUCE OF THE COUNTRY.—MARKS
THAT THE PENINSULA HAD FORMERLY BEEN SURROUNDED BY THE SEA.—LIEUTENANT
KING’S REPORT.—NORTON SOUND.—LUNAR OBSERVATIONS THERE.—STÆHLIN’S MAP
PROVED TO BE ERRONEOUS.—PLAN OF FUTURE OPERATIONS.

After having stood off till we got into eighteen fathoms’ water, I bore up to the eastward, along the coast, which, by this time, it was pretty certain, could only be the continent of Asia. As the wind blew fresh, with a very heavy fall of snow, and a thick mist, it was necessary to proceed with great caution. I therefore brought to for a few hours in the night.

At day-break, on the 30th, we made sail, and steered such a course as I thought would bring us in with the land; being in a great measure guided by the lead; for the weather was as thick as ever, and it snowed incessantly. At ten, we got sight of the coast, bearing south-west, four miles distant; and presently after, having shoaled the water to seven fathoms, we hauled off. At this time, a very low point, or spit, bore south south-west, four miles distant; to the east of which there appeared to be a narrow channel, leading into some water that we saw over the point. Probably, the lake before mentioned communicates here with the sea.

At noon, the mist dispersing for a short interval, we had a tolerably good view of the coast, which extended from south-east to north-west by west. Some parts appeared higher than others; but in general it was very low, with high land farther up the country. The whole was now covered with snow, which had lately fallen, quite down to the sea. I continued to range along the coast, at two leagues’ distance, till ten at night, when we hauled off; but we resumed our course next morning, soon after day-break, when we got sight of the coast again, extending from west to south-east by south. At eight, the eastern part bore south, and proved to be an island; which at noon bore south-west half south, four or fives miles distant. It is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling height, with a steep, rocky coast, situated about three leagues from the main, in the latitude of 67° 45ʹ, and distinguished in the chart by the name of _Burney’s Island_.

The inland country hereabout is full of hills; some of which are of a considerable height. The land was covered with snow, except a few spots upon the sea-coast, which still continued low, but less so than farther westward. For the two preceding days, the main height of the mercury in the thermometer had been very little above the freezing point, and often below it; so that the water in the vessels upon the deck was frequently covered with a sheet of ice.

I continued to steer south south-east, nearly in the direction of the coast, till five in the afternoon, when land was seen bearing south, 50° east, which we presently found to be a continuation of the coast, and hauled up for it. Being abreast of the eastern land, at ten at night, and in doubts of weathering it, we tacked and made a board to the westward, till past one the next morning, when we stood again to the east, and found that it was as much as we could do to keep our distance from the coast, the wind being exceedingly unsettled, varying continually from north to north-east. At half an hour past eight, the eastern extreme above mentioned bore south by east, six or seven miles distant. At the same time, a head-land appeared in sight, bearing east by south, half south; and, soon after, we could trace the whole coast lying between them, and a small island at some distance from it.

The coast seemed to form several rocky points, connected by a low shore, without the least appearance of a harbour. At some distance from the sea, the low land appeared to swell into a number of hills. The highest of these were covered with snow; and, in other respects, the whole country seemed naked. At seven in the evening, two points of land, at some distance beyond the eastern head, opened off it in the direction of south, 37° east. I was now well assured of what I had believed before, that this was the country of the Tschutski, or the north-east coast of Asia; and that thus far Beering proceeded in 1728; that is, to this head which Muller says is called _Serdze Kamen_, on account of a rock upon it, shaped like a heart. But I conceive, that Mr. Muller’s knowledge of the geography of these parts is very imperfect. There are many elevated rocks upon this cape, and possibly some one or other of them may have the shape of a heart. It is a pretty lofty promontory, with a steep rocky cliff facing the sea; and lies in the latitude of 67° 3ʹ, and in the longitude of 188° 11ʹ. To the eastward of it, the coast is high, and bold; but to the westward it is low, and trends north north-west, and north-west by west; which is nearly its direction all the way to Cape North. The soundings are every where the same at the same distance from the shore, which is also the case on the opposite shore of America. The greatest depth we found in ranging along it was twenty-three fathoms. And, in the night, or in foggy weather, the soundings are no bad guide in sailing along either of these shores.

At eight o’clock in the morning of the 2d, the most advanced land to the south-east, bore south, 25° east; and from this point of view had the appearance of being an island. But the thick snow-showers, which succeeded one another pretty fast, and settled upon the land, hid great part of the coast at this time from our sight. Soon after, the sun, whose face we had not seen for near five days, broke out at the intervals between the showers; and, in some measure, freed the coast from the fog, so that we had a sight of it, and found the whole to be connected. The wind still continued at north, the air was cold, and the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 35°, and was sometimes as low as 30°. At noon, the observed latitude was 66° 37ʹ. Cape Serdze Kamen bore north, 52° west, thirteen leagues distant; the southernmost point of land in sight south, 41° east; the nearest part of the coast two leagues distant, and our depth of water twenty-two fathoms.

We had now fair weather and sunshine; and as we ranged along the coast, at the distance of four miles, we saw several of the inhabitants, and some of their habitations, which looked like little hillocks of earth. In the evening we passed the _Eastern Cape_, or the point above mentioned; from which the coast changes its direction, and trends south-west. It is the same point of land which we had passed on the 11th of August. They who believed implicitly in Mr. Stæhlin’s map, then thought it the east point of his island Alaschka; but we had by this time satisfied ourselves, that it is no other than the eastern promontory of Asia; and probably the proper _Tschukotskoi Noss_, though the promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is farther to the south-west.

Though Mr. Muller, in his map of the Russian Discoveries, places the Tschukotskoi Noss nearly in 75° of latitude, and extends it somewhat to the eastward of this cape, it appears to me, that he had no good authority for so doing. Indeed his own accounts, or rather Deshneff’s[81], of the distance between the Noss and the river Anadir cannot be reconciled with this very northerly position. But as I hope to visit these parts again, I shall leave the discussion of this point till then. In the mean time, I must conclude, as Beering did before me, that this is the most eastern point of Asia. It is a peninsula of considerable height, joined to the continent by a very low, and, to appearance, narrow neck of land. It shows a steep rocky cliff next the sea; and off the very point are some rocks like spires. It is situated in the latitude of 66° 6ʹ, and in the longitude of 190° 22ʹ; and is distant from Cape Prince of Wales, on the American coast, thirteen leagues, in the direction of north, 53° west. The land about this promontory is composed of hills and valleys. The former terminate at the sea in steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. The hills seemed to be naked rocks; but the valleys had a greenish hue, but destitute of tree or shrub.

After passing the cape, I steered south-west half west, for the northern point of St. Lawrence Bay, in which we had anchored on the 10th of last month. We reached it by eight o’clock next morning, and saw some of the inhabitants at the place where I had seen them before, as well as several others on the opposite side of the bay. None of them, however, attempted to come off to us; which seemed a little extraordinary, as the weather was favourable enough; and those whom we had lately visited had no reason that I know of to dislike our company. These people must be the Tschutski; a nation that, at the time Mr. Muller wrote, the Russians had not been able to conquer. And, from the whole of their conduct with us, it appears that they have not, as yet, brought them under subjection; though it is obvious that they must have a trade with the Russians, either directly, or by means of some neighbouring nation; as we cannot otherwise account for their being in possession of the spontoons, in particular, of which we took notice.

This Bay of _St. Laurence_[82] is, at least, five leagues broad at the entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing toward the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from the sea-winds, provided there be sufficient depth of water for ships. I did not wait to examine it, although I was very desirous of finding an harbour in those parts, to which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one where wood might be got, and I knew that none was to be found here. From the south point of this bay, which lies in the latitude of 65° 30ʹ, the coast trends west by south, for about nine leagues, and there forms a deep bay, or river; or else the land there is so low that we could not see it.

At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, we saw what was first taken for a rock; but it proved to be a dead whale, which some natives of the Asiatic coast had killed, and were towing ashore. They seemed to conceal themselves behind the fish, to avoid being seen by us. This was unnecessary; for we pursued our course without taking any notice of them.

At day-break on the 4th, I hauled to the north-west, in order to get a nearer view of the inlet seen the preceding day; but the wind soon after veering to that direction, I gave up the design; and, steering to the southward along the coast, passed two bays, each about two leagues deep. The northernmost lies before a hill, which is remarkable by being rounder than any other upon the coast. And there is an island lying before the other. It may be doubted, whether there be a sufficient depth for ships in either of these bays, as we always met with shoal water, when we edged in for the shore. The country here is exceedingly hilly and naked. In several places on the low ground, next the sea, were the dwellings of the natives; and near all of them were erected stages of bones, such as before described. These may be seen at a great distance, on account of their whiteness.

At noon the latitude was 64° 38ʹ, and the longitude 188° 15ʹ; the southernmost point of the main in sight bore south 48° W.; and the nearest shore about three or four leagues distant. By this time, the wind had veered again to the north, and blew a gentle breeze. The weather was clear, and the air cold. I did not follow the direction of the coast, as I found that it took a westerly direction toward the Gulf of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but steered to the southward, in order to get a sight of the Island of St. Laurence, discovered by Beering; which accordingly showed itself, and at eight o’clock in the evening, it bore south 20° E.; by estimation, eleven leagues distant. At the same time, the southernmost point of the main land bore south 83° W., distant twelve leagues. I take this point to be the point which Beering calls the east point of Suchotski, or _Cape Tschukotskoi_; a name which he gave it, and with propriety, because it was from this part of the coast that the natives came off to him, who called themselves of the nation of the Tschutski. I make its latitude to be 64° 13ʹ, and its longitude 186° 36ʹ.

In justice to the memory of Beering, I must say, that he has delineated the coast very well, and fixed the latitude and longitude of the points better than could be expected from the methods he had to go by. This judgment is not formed from Mr. Muller’s account of the voyage, or the chart prefixed to his book; but from Dr. Campbell’s account of it in his edition of Harris’s Collection[83], and a map thereto annexed, which is both more circumstantial and accurate than that of Mr. Muller.

The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coast of Asia, the more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr. Stæhlin’s map of the New Northern Archipelago with my observations; and I had no way to account for the great difference, but by supposing, that I had mistaken some part of what he calls the Island of Alaschka for the American continent, and had missed the channel that separates them. Admitting even this, there would still have been a considerable difference. It was with me a matter of some consequence to clear up this point the present season, that I might have but one object in view the next. And, as these northern isles are represented by him as abounding with wood, I was in hopes, if I should find them, of getting a supply of that article, which we now began to be in great want of on board.

With these views, I steered over for the American coast; and, at five in the afternoon, the next day, saw land bearing three quarters east, which we took to be Anderson’s Island, or some other land near it, and therefore did not wait to examine it. On the 6th, at four in the morning, we got sight of the American coast near Sledge Island; and at six the same evening, this island bore north, 6° E.; ten leagues distant; and the easternmost land in sight N. 49° E. If any part of what I had supposed to be American coast could possibly be the island of Alaschka, it was that now before us; and in that case, I must have missed the channel between it and the main, by steering to the west, instead of the east, after we first fell in with it. I was not, therefore, at a loss where to go, in order to clear up these doubts.

At eight in the evening of the 7th, we had got close in with the land, Sledge Island bearing N. 85° W., eight or nine leagues distant; and the eastern part of the coast N. 70° E., with high land in the direction of east by north, seemingly at a great distance beyond the point. At this time we saw a light ashore; and two canoes, filled with people, coming off toward us. I brought to, that they might have time to come up. But it was to no purpose; for, resisting all the signs of friendship we could exhibit, they kept at the distance of a quarter of a mile; so that we left them, and pursued our course along the coast.

At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water shoal pretty fast, we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where we lay until day-light, and then resumed our course along the coast, which we found to trend east, and east half south. At seven in the evening, we were abreast of a point, lying in the latitude of 64° 21ʹ, and in the longitude of 197°; beyond which the coast takes a more northerly direction. At eight, this point, which obtained the name of _Cape Darby_, bore S. 62° W.; the northernmost land in sight, N. 32° E.; and the nearest shore three miles distant. In this situation, we anchored in thirteen fathoms’ water, over a muddy bottom.

Next morning, at day-break, we weighed and sailed along the coast. Two islands, as we supposed them to be, were at this time seen; the one bearing S. 70° E., and the other E. Soon after, we found ourselves upon a coast covered with wood; an agreeable sight, to which, of late, we had not been accustomed. As we advanced to the north, we raised land in the direction of north-east half north; which proved to be a continuation of the coast we were upon. We also saw high land over the islands, seemingly at a good distance beyond them. This was thought to be the continent, and the other land the island of Alaschka. But it was already doubtful, whether we should find a passage between them, for the water shoaled insensibly as we advanced farther to the north. In this situation, two boats were sent to sound before the ships; and I ordered the Discovery to lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel, between the coast on our larboard, and the northernmost island on our starboard. Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon; when, having passed the island, we had not more than three fathoms and an half of water; and the Resolution, at one time, brought the mud up from the bottom. More water was not to be found in any part of the channel; for, with the ships and boats, we had tried it from side to side.

I therefore thought it high time to return; especially as the wind was in such a quarter, that we must ply back. But what I dreaded most was the wind increasing, and raising the sea into waves, so as to put the ships in danger of striking. At this time, a head-land on the west shore, which is distinguished by the name of _Bald Head_, bore north by west, one league distant. The coast beyond it extended as far north-east by north, where it seemed to end in a point; behind which the coast of the high land, seen over the islands, stretched itself; and some thought they could trace where it joined. On the west side of Bald Head, the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we saw a number of huts or habitations of the natives.