Chapter IV: The Pilgrimage on the Forest-Mountain

Through the Forests of the Black Mountain—The Flower
of Illyria—A Mysterious Fly—Enchanted Ground—The Fairy
Mountain—Great Christian Pilgrimage—The Shrine on the
Mountain-top—Christian Votaries in the Garb of Islâm—The
Night-encampment—How the Turks dance—Anacreontic Songs—An
Epic Bard, Poetic Genius of Bosniacs—Insolence of Turkish
Soldiers and their Ill-treatment of the Rayahs—Types at
the Fair—Aspect and Character of Men—_Chefs-d’œuvre_ of
Flint-knapping—Christian Graveyard and Monastery—Dismiss our
Zaptieh—Night on Forest-mountain of Troghìr—Wrecks by Wind
and Lightning—Scene of Forest Fire—Timber Barricades—Summit
of Vučia Planina—A _Bon-vivant_—Steep Descent—Night in a
Hole—Almost impassable Gorge—Egyptian Rocks—Repulsed from a
Moslem Village—Tombs of the Bogomiles—Arrive at Franciscan
Monastery of Gučiagora—Fears of a Massacre—Relations of
Roman Catholics with the Turks—Austrian Influence in
Bosnia—Aspirations of the Bosnian Monks 126